How to make a metal workbench at home step by step. Making a universal workbench for a workshop with your own hands How to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands

For a zealous owner, a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or extension to the house. Certainly, carpenter's workbench and can be purchased. But if this product well-known brand, it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the requests of the master. Cheap tables will not last long - definitely.

The most rational solution, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, is to make it yourself. Having dealt with the optimal dimensions, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult in this for any man.

Selecting a workbench project

You need to start with this. Any desktop is made for some specific purposes and premises. Joiner's workbench - the name is generalized. One is needed only for woodworking on personal plot(e.g. during construction or overhaul), the other is going for everyday work with small details, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and the place of installation, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.

Option A - portable workbench (mobile). Such a desktop is most often assembled with your own hands for small rooms (an extension, a garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to perform small work with small parts. The relatively low weight of the structure makes it easy to move it, if necessary, to another segment. As a rule, the maximum that such a workbench can be equipped with is a medium-sized vice and e / emery. This will allow the carpentry table to be partially used for small plumbing work.

Option B - stationary workbench. His distinguishing feature- massiveness. Such joiner's tables are mainly needed by those who often cut (dissolve) lumber - overall boards, timber or logs. In practice, amateur craftsmen install them on the site only for the period of building a house or outbuilding. After completion of work, they are used infrequently - for "rough" technological operations. For a private house, such a workbench is needed, but for a garage (considering small size boxing) is hardly suitable.

Option B - in fact, this is an intermediate (prefabricated) structure (on bolted connections). Its advantage is the ability to modify or modify something at any time, depending on the tasks being solved. But a significant disadvantage is the complexity of the assembly. And if vibrating mechanisms are installed on such a workbench (the same electric / grindstone), then it will have to be constantly put in order (tighten all fasteners).

For household purposes home master the table according to option A is best suited. It is called mobile only conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for him in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing his legs on the floor (fill with concrete, “fasten” with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands, whatever.

Drafting a carpentry workbench

If the workbench is going to domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.

Length - at least 180.
Working surface width – 90±10.
Workbench height - 80 ± 10 (taking into account the thickness of the tabletop). Deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with a tree will be effective and will bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.

What to consider:

The number and type of compartments in the cabinet table. It can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “nests” in the tabletop to install limiters.
To fix the workpieces, it is desirable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. The optimal width of their "sponges" is 170 ± 5 mm.
Desktop location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of fixtures fixed on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.

If the owner is left-handed, then this should be foreseen. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose "working" hand is right. Therefore, you will have to place additional / equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.

Workbench drawing example

Selection of materials

The bar is planed. He will go to the frame (frame) of the workbench. The section is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the structure. For a large table - at least 100 x 100. If it is compact, for universal application, you can limit yourself to blanks 100 x 70 (50). They are also perfect for various jumpers. Board. For the table top minimum thickness- 50. Here you need to think about how to use the workbench more rationally. For example, to make it truly universal, one part of it can be specially adapted to perform locksmith work, that is, with metals. In this case, it is advisable to take a more massive board (for example, "sixty") and upholster a small segment of the tabletop with sheet iron. This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench.

The desktop is not installed in the living quarters. And in the workshop there will definitely be differences in both temperature and humidity. So for the manufacture of a workbench, wood is recommended - hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are characterized by sufficient hardness. Although for countertops homemade workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, sometimes slab samples (chipboard, OSV) are taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.

Too porous wood should not be used. Even its high-quality treatment with antiseptics, oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the tree.

fasteners

Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They should be of such length that a washer, grover and nut can be placed on the back side. More difficult with other types of fasteners.
Nails. How appropriate it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are quite common), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of remarks are worth making.

Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
Thirdly, the difficulty with dismantling. For example, if it is necessary to repair the desktop with the replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly clogged “powerful” nail.

Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most "problem" areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, plates. The main thing is to correctly choose the length of the leg of the fastener. There is a rule according to which it should exceed the thickness of the fastened part by 3 times, at least. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is questionable.

Assembly instructions for a carpentry workbench

In the process of making a desktop with his own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion even in one place - and everything will have to start over.

Manufacturing of workbench parts

This is easy to do according to the dimensions in the drawing.
Each sample is carefully polished.
Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are processed to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
Drying. This is worth focusing on. Initiate this process using artificial heating is impossible, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should only evaporate naturally– In a room with room temperature and good ventilation.

Base Frame Assembly (Workbench Base)

Partially about the features of fastening has already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tenon-groove connection with a fit on carpentry glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables, which are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).

Here you should consider the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If he is in a room with good conditions, then it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are fully justified. For desktops that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and even more so in the open, “landing” on glue is undesirable. Partial repairs cannot be done, and the frame will have to be reassembled.

Additional reliability of the design can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. All this is thought out even at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although it is possible to make “refinement” during the installation process.

table top

This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (in case of significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.

The width of the countertop is selected so that its surface extends somewhat beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to work on such a workbench. Yes, and fixing the removable vise will no longer work.
The side parts of the boards are carefully polished. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, then you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
The blanks are stacked face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be pulled with thick self-tapping screws. In extreme cases, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.

To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed on the frame using metal corners.
After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).

Workbench equipment

At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vise. They can be purchased, which are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry make clamping devices on their own.

In principle, a man who is “friends” with the simplest tool should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.

Even if they do not have sizes, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that there will be new, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or barn. Yes, and having familiarized with the complete set of the table, design features various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling with your own hands is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.

A well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench equipped with all kinds of tools for processing parts is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, the desktop can be bought in the distribution network. However, we recommend making it yourself.
First, it will allow you to get the product right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench optional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.
A durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during long work with wooden parts.

The carpenter's workbench, in fact, is a massive, reliable table for processing wooden products of any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of fixtures for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts to be processed, as well as free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are structures compact workbenches, which can be placed even on the balcony.

Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of manual and electric tools, the workbench is made of massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hard varieties wood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on edge.

A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the construction, the supporting legs of the desktop, on the contrary, are made of soft wood. Between themselves, the vertical supports are connected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.
A specially designed vise is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fixing workpieces. In addition, on overall machines, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted. The optimal location for the carpentry vice is the left side of the front apron and the near part of the right sidewall.

In the workbench - the space between the supports, under the table top, they often equip convenient shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the countertop for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.

Types and design.

All home-made desktops for carpentry can be divided into three types:
1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partially of metal elements. Such machines are designed to work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option when there is not enough space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for small repair work or making small parts you can refurbish an old desk.

2. The stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to certain place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.
carpenter's workbench
The stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the features of the room.

3. Composite type machine - the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this design, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the desktop are bolted together.
Scheme of a composite workbench
The composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement.

Project and drawings.

When designing a carpentry workbench, the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that it will take a long time to work at a carpentry workbench, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.
When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is on the same level with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the countertop, then you can work at such a workbench tirelessly for several hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long identified optimal size countertops - maximum 2 m long and 0.7 m wide. On such a workbench, with the same convenience, you can make a team wooden door, and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting structural elements, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use rails and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental nature of the structure.

Often the frame, or otherwise the frame of the workbench, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to make a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Let's take a look at the project carpenter's table¸ made of plywood, or rather from two plywood sheets glued together with a thickness of 1.8 mm. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.
Required Tools and materials

18mm thick plywood is enough expensive material(the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding delivery costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally, for the construction of a carpentry machine, you will need:
wooden beam with a section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous load;
electric drill with a set of conventional and pen drills;
pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
wood glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive "Moment Joiner";
furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
Circular Saw;
joiner's square;
long rule (at least 2 m);
construction level;
a notched trowel with a size of cut sectors of at least 3 mm;
carpentry clamps.

Clamps required for compressing plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have a quality tool, then you can get by with inexpensive Chinese-made jigs. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions.
1. To make a countertop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of maximum length, then you need to saw off one blank 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.
To properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded, turning the convex sides to each other.

2. Having laid one blank on three parallel boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched trowels. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The glue manufacturer Moment Stolyar recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time limits. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, however, even the PVA furniture mix good quality provide an acceptable degree of bonding.
Gluing the countertop
To avoid damage to the workpiece, place under the clamps support boards

3. Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table cover and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using the rule. It will not work to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.

It is possible to glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

4. After the glue has dried, the clamps are removed and proceed to reinforce the side surfaces of the countertop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued around the entire perimeter of the cover in two layers. When doing this work, be sure to make sure that the top layer completely covers the joints.
Countertop manufacturing
Reinforcement of the side parts of the bench table with additional plywood strips

5. A circular saw is used to trim the side surfaces of the table. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm in compliance with right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. The supports of the workbench are made from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with prolegs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.
Countertop construction
Making a carpentry workbench frame

7. The assembly of the legs is carried out “in a spike” or using dowels, be sure to apply carpentry glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frame of the underlay, scrupulously maintain 90 degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the lower prong of 150 mm.
9. To fasten the tabletop to the underbench, long drawers are drilled in three places, through which the details of the workbench are fastened with 8 mm self-tapping screws with a length of at least 100 mm.

10. So that the head of the hardware and the washer do not protrude beyond the support elements, a recess is made in them with a pen drill.
Making a workbench
Holes made in the parts with a pen drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, a shelf can be built in the underlay. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment.

A real carpentry workbench cannot be imagined without fixtures designed to fasten workpieces. For this purpose, a vise is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that their jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To properly install the fixture on the workbench, a vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.
If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vise, stops are provided on the desktop. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the countertop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. Nests for supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vise. This will allow you to securely fix the workpiece of any size.

The carpenter's workbench is the cornerstone of the woodworker's workshop. It allows you to competently organize the workspace, increase productivity and improve the quality of work, regardless of whether you are an adherent of a manual or electromechanical tool. In this article we will tell you how to make a classic wooden workbench with your own hands.

About carpentry workbenches

The device and purpose of the workbench

A carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and mechanical processing of wooden products. The design and ergonomics of the classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and with maximum convenience perform basic carpentry operations: manufacture wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them with finishing compounds. The traditional carpentry table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vise mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. The optimal height of the table is selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make a structure?

The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.

Coniferous wood is traditionally used for the manufacture of the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a bench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.

Curly cutouts of the sides and supports (detail A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess is made for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing spikes and eyelets

Spikes and lugs are made on a saw machine or by hand, guided by the basic principles for creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Sidewall assembly

Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.

A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.

Production of prolegs and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.

The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Mounting the bench cover

On the back side of the workbench, do not drill through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L).

With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.

Bench vise installation

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice at ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we take a look at the wiring diagram. standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the mounting to the features of non-standard bench vise.

Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are sawn from hardwood. After that, holes are drilled for guide rods, a lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.

Every home craftsman can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands. It takes a lot of time for this work, but the benefits of a well-equipped workplace cover both labor costs and investments in building material. In this article you will find complete information on the independent construction of workbenches for carpentry.

Carpentry workbench - workplace optimization

Comfortable working surface useful to any craftsman. A carpenter needs a furnished working area more than other professionals. After all, he will have to deal with large-sized workpieces, the length of which reaches 3 meters, and in this case he cannot do without a well-designed workspace. Even a simplified folding workbench allows you to process timber or boards and assemble products from the resulting blanks. A large tabletop with stops makes it possible to fix the lumber in any position, processing not only the surfaces, but also the edges of the timber or board. A special vise will help fix the workpiece during sawing, drilling or joining several elements.

In addition, in the drawers and on the shelves of the workbench, you can store parts for future products, tools and all sorts of household items. Moreover, not only a carpentry version made of wood, but also a metal workbench, assembled on the basis of steel corners, can be turned into a convenient storage. At the same time, a master who is not too familiar with construction can make a carpentry workbench with his own hands, organizing and optimizing the space in the working room. For this you will need general drawings or understanding the design of the workbench, Construction Materials and step-by-step instruction for assembly. You can find all of this below.

Varieties and arrangement of workbenches for carpenters

In modern carpentry, only three schemes for the design of workbenches are used. Firstly, the mobile version is a portable design that can be installed even on a balcony. Such a model is also useful for those craftsmen who want to get a universal workbench for metalwork and carpentry. The main advantage of this option is its small size, the main disadvantage is a small storage area. You can't put all the tools in such a table.

Secondly, a stationary workbench is an option for a full-fledged workshop. To accommodate this model, you need a spacious room, but it will also fit into a large garage. This workbench can be both wooden and steel - it is possible to assemble any structure, because it does not need to be moved. The main advantage of the model is its wide functionality, multiplied by an extensive storage space. The main disadvantage is the size and the need for large volume building materials.

Thirdly, modular design - workbenches of this type occupy an intermediate position between stationary and mobile options. The model structure allows you to build up and shorten the carpentry table, legs and other elements. Therefore, the main advantage of this option is the combination of optimal dimensions and functionality. And the main disadvantage is the complicated design. Build Modular metal workbench it’s not so easy with your own hands, and you may have problems with a tree.

As a result, the optimal model for self construction it is the stationary version that should be recognized, since the mobile one does not provide all the benefits, and the modular one is too complicated during assembly. At the same time, regardless of belonging to one of the varieties, any workbench contains the following structural elements:

Support (frame, frame) - a system of vertical and horizontal beams that hold the tabletop, workpieces and tools.
Work surface (tabletop) - in the language of professionals, this element is called a workbench. It makes all the necessary grooves and recesses for the stops, which are useful for fixing the workpieces being processed. Therefore, such a board must be massive and reliable.
The front vise and box are essentially huge clamping blocks that compete with clamps. They fix the workpieces at an angle to the plane of the desktop, pressing them against the side edges of the tabletop. Moreover, a folding workbench has only one vice, and a stationary one has at least a couple of clamping blocks.
Shelves are storage areas that are located under the countertop.

And all these parts, with the exception of some parts of the clamping block made of metal (screws and nuts), are assembled from wood, which simplifies the selection construction materials for building a workbench.

What materials are needed for assembly - getting ready to work

You will be able to build a carpentry or locksmith workbench with your own hands only if you get the following materials:

Plywood sheet with a thickness of 18-20 millimeters and overall dimensions of 2.5 × 1.25 meters. And try to choose a perfectly flat sheet, without bubbles and dips on the surface - it will go to the countertop.
Bar 10 × 10 and 6 × 6 centimeters. The frame will be assembled from these elements, therefore, we need about 4 meters of "ten" (for legs and crossbars) and at least three meters of "six" (for strengthening elements). At the same time, try to choose a timber without knots and cracks.
Boards 2 meters long - they will come in handy during the assembly of the countertop. And upon completion of them you can.

In addition, we will need the following tools: a drill with feather and conventional drills, a circular saw (circular saw), clamps, glue Moment(for wood), square, level, bolts with nuts and furniture self-tapping screws with corrosion protection. After all these materials and tools are purchased and brought to the place of placement and assembly, you can build a workbench out of wood with your own hands, based on our step-by-step instructions.

Do-it-yourself assembly - step by step instructions

Before you do, try to read this instruction from beginning to end, scrolling through all the assembly steps described below in your head. If you understand the whole procedure, then independent production workbench will take you a minimum of personal time. Moreover, our step-by-step instructions are designed for people with minimal experience in carpentry. Well, the assembly process itself is as follows.

At the first stage, we assemble the table. To do this, we shorten the plywood sheet to 1.52 meters with a circular saw and divide it into two parts. As a result, two blanks with dimensions of 1.52 × 0.61 meters remain in the hands of the master. They will serve as the basis for the countertop. And the rest of 0.98 × 1.25 will be useful to us in the future. The next step is gluing the array of the workbench table from two plywood blanks. To do this, grease their surfaces with glue and, having folded the plywood boards, tighten them with clamps, and a 30-kilogram load can be placed on the central part. Moreover, three 1.5-meter boards must be placed under the clamps, providing a snug fit when placed along the long edge of the sheet.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that when gluing plywood sheets must be connected by convex sides (when superimposed on each other), otherwise the entire array will turn into an arc, which is undesirable. Next, we move on to reinforcing the 36mm glued array. To do this, we need to cut strips 15 centimeters wide from the remnants of the plywood panel and glue them around the perimeter, on the back of the tabletop. The end result should be a 54mm thick table made up of three 18mm layers of plywood. Moreover, the amplifier strips will play the role of stiffeners.

After that, we cut the array to the dimensions of 1.5 × 0.6 meters. This step will allow you to trim the ends, eliminating the overlays and protrusions that formed during the assembly of the countertop from three layers of plywood. The trimming itself is carried out with a circular saw at a low tool feed. The circular paper must be driven very slowly over the plywood, otherwise you will get torn edges. The next stage is the assembly of the vertical elements of the frame. To do this, we saw a beam of 10 × 10 centimeters into four segments 0.9 meters long. We get vertical supports. And as prolegs (lower screed between vertical beams) and tsarg (upper screed) we will use a beam of 6 × 6 centimeters, cutting out the corresponding grooves in the legs. The attachment points of the prolegs and the tsarg should be smeared with glue and reinforced with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Next, we must install the vertical supports at the location of the workbench and assemble the entire frame by pulling them together using horizontal longitudinal ties. They can be made from a beam of 6 × 6 centimeters, fixed in a spike or overlap, on bolts or self-tapping screws.

We will lay shelves from 1.5-meter boards on the lower screeds, and a countertop on the upper ones. Therefore, before attaching the screeds, we must track the vertical and horizontal of the assembled frame. Otherwise, the table will be tilted. The fastening of the table top to the bed is carried out with 8 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be drowned in the holes drilled with a pen drill. Before fastening, the table is pulled to the upper longitudinal screeds and drawers with clamps.

This completes the assembly of the table, and we can proceed to the installation of the vise. Moreover, not everyone can make a carpentry vise for a workbench with their own hands. Therefore, we suggest that beginners pay attention to ready-made models, the installation of which occurs in the following sequence: we fasten a fixed vise jaw to the end of the table, and fix a threaded element on it. We pass two threaded guides through the holes in the movable sponge, screw them into the fixed sponge. We insert the handles into the heads of the guides, by rotating which you can move the movable part of the vise to the stationary one.

Once the vise assembly is completed, you can use the workbench as you wish. Moreover, round or rectangular holes for stops can be cut into the countertop as needed, positioning them as you like.

This carpentry workbench has a sturdy frame, a solid work surface and multiple compartments for easy storage of tools and fixtures. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will gradually add various useful additions.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

Hacksaw.
Electroplaner.
The saw is circular.
Grinder.
Drill and drills.
Clamps.
Screwdriver.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Brush.

Carpenter's workbench frame

Take even pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for the comfortable work of a master 170–180 cm tall. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

Name	Finished dimensions, mm	Material	Quantity
Name		Material	Quantity
leg detail
bottom spacer
Top spacer
cross prog
Cover crossbar
Longitudinal proleg
Longitudinal side
Bottom shelf
Countertop spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

Saw all wooden blanks to length, with the exception of spacers: short ones are more convenient to cut already planed, and long ones should be sawn off later “in place”.

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade, and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Spread the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the details and sand them with medium grit sandpaper.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces of dust, apply glue to the small prong and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the rest of the legs of the carpentry workbench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench is moved.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal prongs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and fix with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the carpentry workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Assemble the lower harness of the workbench, using clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut out the lower shelf from sheet material 16 mm thick and fix it on the bars

Workbench for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the plates in two layers and get a countertop with a thickness of 32–40 mm.

Drawing and arrangement of the cover of the workbench: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (solid fiberboard); 3 - carrier plate (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For countertops, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the lid of the carpentry workbench turns out to be 670x1940 mm in size.

Place narrow slabs closer to the back wall and to the center of the workbench. Large sheets place in the top layer of the countertop. Glue the cut blanks.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges with a hand-held circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Cut the slats for the edge trims. Saw off 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Put a piece of fiberboard on top of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench cover. While holding the plank with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the remaining pads. Process the planks with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the board so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of the recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces of dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with wood stain. Lay the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double-sided tape. Install a carpenter's vise on the workbench.

Drawers for storing tools in the carpenter's table

When filling the space under the cover of the carpentry workbench, use the modular principle. Individual blocks are easier to make and more convenient to later change when space is needed for a new tool. There will be a certain overspending of material, but the mass of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - full extension drawer; 2 - roomy plywood box; 3 - container made of chipboard; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for a portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Choose boxes that are suitable in size from unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.

Sign the wooden elements and carefully pull them apart. Clean the spikes and lugs from the glue.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting brackets to accurately assemble right angles.

When the glue dries, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for ease of use.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Fasten the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, placing props under it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten self-tapping screws. Fasten the chipboard to the top rails and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front pads on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Fasten the remaining overlays - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the workbench to increase the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the case, take a chipboard 16 mm thick and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Housing of the middle module: 1 - frame diagram; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame with screws and install close to the right block.

Prepare the details for the drawer.

Drawings of the elements of the box: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

With a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. Move the rip fence 2 mm and make a trial cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install rails from below to protect the chipboard edges from chipping and provide a more “smooth” ride.

Fasten the front panel with screws and put the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The arrangement of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The drawer placed on roller guides is manufactured taking into account the mounting clearance, so its width will be 26 mm less than the internal size of the case (for common rails with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the housing, fasten the restrictive wooden slats and metal guides.

Scheme of mounting guides on the walls of the case.

Fix the finished module under the cover of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unsnap the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the pieces to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and a gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.