Installation of pvc wall panels, how to do it correctly, useful tips. How to dock plastic panels on the ceiling - How to dock and how to fix plastic panels? How to insert the last plastic panel and how to disassemble the panels? Connect plastic

wall decoration MDF panels recently it has become more and more popular, due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly put in order surfaces of a sufficiently large area. In addition, the installation of the panels will not take much time, since you do not have to wait for the drying of numerous layers, as, for example, in the case of plastering. It also plays into the hands that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material can be called a very affordable price for it.

Do-it-yourself MDF wall mounting panels, which can be carried out even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare surfaces and pay special attention to accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation "MDF" stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material including wall panels. The production of MDF consists in the process of dry pressing of a finely dispersed mass from sawdust and chips, using high temperatures and pressures. To bind the mass, carbamide resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde, chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration premises. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - fixing them to a frame crate or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as "liquid nails". This adhesive is used not only for the installation of wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, as it contains sawdust filler. If the filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible sections of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected by color so that the patched sections do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades of them alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you want to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To work comfortably, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, from the tools you will need:

• Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
• Building level and plumb.
• Tape measure, metal ruler and building corner, a simple pencil or marker.
• Electric drill, screwdriver or even a regular screwdriver.
• Construction stapler.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

The main methods of mounting MDF panels and the materials necessary for this

For the installation of MDF, certain auxiliary materials will be required. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Mounting panels on walls can be done in two ways:

• Kleev.
• Wireframe.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation, the main condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels are to be glued to the surface, then it must first be leveled with drywall or plaster-putty method.

To mount the panels on glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is the “liquid nails” composition and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall with MDF paneling, while hiding communications behind it or conducting insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for the installation of panels can be made of a wooden beam or a metal profile. It must be said that mounting MDF is easier to carry out on wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When mounting panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will not be possible to do without.

When using a frame, a gap inevitably forms between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” to mold and fungus. Therefore, before installing the crate, it is imperative to audit the wall. If it is wet, then it will need to be dried first, and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. It is still better not to install such a cladding on external thin walls at all, as it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the cladding panels on the frame, the following materials will be required:

• A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15 × 30, 20 × 30, 20 × 40 or 20 × 50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as used when installing drywall.
• Insulation material - foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
• Metal straight hangers that will help to set the guides exactly in one plane.

• Kleimers for fixing panels on the frame.

• Small nails or staples for the stapler.
• Dowels for attaching brackets (suspensions) or direct rails to the wall.
• Wood screws.
• Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used to decorate both the external and internal junction of planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If you find signs of high humidity on it, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon, and then try to eliminate it. It is impossible to close a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles for the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

• Wall cleaning.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then they must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space they can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality pasted wallpapers, which are difficult to remove, must first be soaked with water or steamed with an iron, and then cleaned with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special formulations for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or qualitatively painted water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

• Wall processing.

In the event that mold spots are present on the wall, then the surface must be “cured” - treated with a special composition “Anti-mold” or with the usual concentrated bleaching agent - “Whiteness”. Before processing, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment should be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus to the ground, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and process the main wall itself well.

"Treatment" of the affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with the mandatory safety measures, in a respirator or in a special mask, in order to avoid inhalation of particles of plaster affected by the fungus.

• Closing cracks.

If, after removing the wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning the placement of heat and sound insulating materials under the MDF panels. Cracks must be repaired so that they do not become cold bridges, as well as a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or the same mold can find shelter.

Cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster mortar to hold well in the gap of the crack, it needs to be slightly expanded and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of the old plaster and processed with a brush.

… and then densely filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its full depth.

• Surface primer.

The next step is to prime the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the emergence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation- thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If it is planned to sheathe wooden walls, then it is recommended to choose a primer, which includes not only antiseptics, but also flame retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of wood.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller in two to three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

• Installation of insulating material.

Further, in the event that the panels will be attached to the crate, you can proceed to gluing the insulation material. For this purpose, "penofol", which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited.

The most convenient in work - "penofol" on a self-adhesive basis

Today, you can find self-adhesive "penofol" on sale - it can be very easily fixed on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material was not found, then the usual "penofol" is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to the Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer on the wall surface or directly on the insulation. Cloths of "penofol" are pressed against the surface, and with the help of a rubber spatula, air is expelled from under it.

Gluing the joints of adjacent strips of "penofol" with adhesive tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are glued with special foil tape.

Frame structure installation

Carrying out markup

If it is decided to mount MDF panels on the frame, then first you need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the batten guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The step between the railing guides is usually chosen within 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly even.

To find the perfect vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which straight lines are beaten off on the wall. If the lines are beaten off on a foil surface, then immediately after the beating, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal, I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will give a laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use the usual construction one, expelling the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

According to the markup, it will be quite easy to correctly fix the guide battens.

When marking, it must be taken into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the rest of the elements, maintaining the set step.

wooden frame

Wooden bars, despite the marking lines, when installed on the wall, are still checked by the building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled right through the bars, into which plastic dowels are hammered, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fasteners are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is chosen so that they go into the thickness of the wall by at least 50 ÷ 60 mm, and the thickness of the crate beam is added to this parameter, given that the screw head is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the racks of the crate to the same level if the wall requires alignment with the crate, and the bars themselves will have to be fixed to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

Hangers are first fixed to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a step between adjacent ones at 350 ÷ 400 mm from each other. Hanger shelves are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then, two extreme beams on the wall are installed, aligned in level and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed extreme guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords from above and below (or to the right and left - with the horizontal orientation of the frame) - this will become the reference lines (beacons) for correct installation other guides in a single plane.

Metal carcass

Metal profiles prepared in size are fixed on the wall according to the same principle as wooden bars, but sometimes for the rigidity of the structure they are lined with timber. To fix the profile, suspensions are necessarily used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit close to it.

If the frame is mounted on wooden wall, then the hangers for fastening the railing rails are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on a different base of the wall is necessary, then it is best to fix the suspensions with driven dowels-nails.

If the finish is fixed on a wall that has a window or door opening, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the lining will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and platbands.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame

Before starting the installation of the cladding under the frame, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and fixed, immediately determining the installation locations for sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked with a tape measure and a building corner, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using an electric jigsaw, a manual vertical circular or even a conventional hacksaw.

• The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is reached, otherwise the entire cladding will go further skewed.
• The launch panel is installed with a spike in the corner and fixed to the guides from the side of the corner in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the points of its intersection with the railing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to the wooden frame. When using a metal frame, the fixation of the clamps is carried out with small self-tapping screws with a low head, so that after it is completely screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

• To begin with, the spike of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this docking edge is already fixed. Mandatory adjustment of the panel according to the level is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows a certain backlash. After precise exposure, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
• So continue facing to the end of the wall (or to the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut in its thickness so that it freely enters the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, right through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and at the end of the lined wall will be hidden by decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from the floor to the ceiling, and the first canvas must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the crate takes place exactly according to the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

• In the panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed, a round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket (usually 67 mm) is pre-cut. Drilling is carried out using a drill-crown.

The socket must be fixed securely, and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure a hard stop against the wall, it is recommended to additionally fix wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and the switch is screwed onto the facing panels or to the corresponding sockets of the socket.

Mounting MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels on glue than on a crate, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

• To install the first panel, it is necessary to beat off a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how the installation is planned.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be controlled by level.

• Special attention you need to pay attention to the choice of glue for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

- The adhesive must remain flexible enough even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition should be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

- The adhesive must have a thick enough consistency to be able to be applied in a thick or thin layer, as appropriate, and evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option - glue type "liquid nails"

These requirements in terms of the main parameters are precisely met by the composition "Liquid Nails". The primer that the walls are pre-treated with will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will hold securely on it.

• Glue is applied to the back of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first firmly pressed against the wall, and then it is torn off and left to “wind” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After that, already for the final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed in the right place, and held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition is firmly set.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels dotted or "snake"

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then come off. After smearing, attaching and tearing off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second, and so on, until it comes to the last. When installing canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed by the next spike to be installed.

• If the finish is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel dries well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the rest of the paintings. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.
• The last panel to be mounted, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, drawn and the excess part is sawn off with a jigsaw. In the corner, the last canvas is screwed to the crate or wall with a self-tapping screw.
• The final elements of the installation are fittings and skirting boards. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes to "liquid nails", covering the heads of the self-tapping screws that fasten the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings (if special profiles are not used there - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued to the same glue, installed on special fasteners or screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws. Fixing skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Learn how to produce by reading step by step instructions in an article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with MDF panels

Having become acquainted with technological process installation of MDF panels, it is possible, summing up, to formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to virtues Such a finishing material includes the following qualities:

• Fairly simple installation with the ability to mount the panels both vertically and horizontally.
• A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish for every taste and interior style.
• When mounting MDF panels on a frame crate, you can hide cable communications behind them.
• With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable look and visual evenness, especially when the right combination shades.
• Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
• It is easy to take care of the MDF finish, as it is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a damp soft cloth.
• Finishing MDF wall panels have a very affordable price.

disadvantages such panels can be called the following points:

• With this finish, a perfectly smooth surface is not created, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
• When such a cladding is attached to the crate, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, with insufficient pre-treatment or other adverse conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans can develop. Very often, especially if walls are sheathed in a private house, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or rodent paths.
• The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
• MDF does not belong to moisture-resistant materials in any way, therefore, if the wall behind the sheathing starts to get damp, the panels may swell and the lining will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. The installation of such a cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, who has absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all the technological recommendations.

And finally, a small visual material» in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to mount MDF panels on walls

The popularity of PVC panels in construction is due to quite weighty reasons. Their decorative possibilities are attractive, consisting in a variety of shades, patterns and textures, low cost, simple installation, which the owner of a house or apartment can do with his own hands. Mounting wall panels PVC will allow you to forget about the need for a long time cosmetic repairs- compliance with the rules of operation will allow them to maintain an attractive appearance for a long period.

Where are PVC panels used?

Considering modern approach to finishing materials, it is somewhat difficult to imagine that plastic wall panels will be used to decorate a bedroom or living room, but in the corridor, in the kitchen, in the bathroom or on the veranda, they sometimes turn out to be simply irreplaceable. They are also often used for finishing public and office premises.

The versatility of the external style of the PVC panel models allows them to be used in any style of interior design, and the moisture-resistant properties make them the ideal hygienist-approved finish for bathrooms and toilets. An equally valuable property of the panels is their ability to withstand the loads created when the apartment is flooded by residents living on higher floors. Even in the event of a serious accident, the panels do not have to be replaced with new ones - they can be easily cleaned of dirt and acquire their original appearance after drying.

Using wall panels for the kitchen, where fat and soot can settle, it will be enough to periodically wipe the PVC material with warm water and ordinary detergents.

Mold, fungi and bacteria cannot multiply on the surface of the material.

Dimensions of PVC wall panels

Firstly, all manufactured panels can be divided by thickness into 5 mm and 8-10 mm. Sheets with a width of 100 mm usually have a length of 3 m, if the width of the sheet is from 200 to 370 mm, then its length can be 2.6 m, 2.7 m, 3.0 m.

By design, a lining with a width of 100 mm may differ in the width of the lock - for the "European" it is narrower, for the "Polka" it is wider. The lining with a width of 12.5 cm is distinguished by a double profile; it is quite rare for sale.

Panel material differs from lining in the absence of connecting seams, the width of the panel can vary between 15 - 50 cm.

Preparation for work

As already mentioned, especially careful preparation of the walls before installation work is not required. But it is necessary to measure the surfaces to be sheathed with maximum accuracy and correctly calculate the amount of material for their sheathing.

In addition, you will need to decide how the installation will be carried out - if the walls and ceiling in the room turn out to be perfectly even, then they can simply be pasted over with panels. But if the task is to give the room ideal parameters, then you should take care of installing the frame, the main advantage of this option is the ability to give the room an aesthetic appearance by hiding all engineering communications under the surface of the paneling.

When performing work, you will need to use the following tools:

• comfortable stepladder,
• drill or perforator
• hacksaw for metal,
• tape measure and level,
• paint knife,
• hammer,
• self-tapping screws.

It is recommended to save them in advance, otherwise it will not be possible to assemble them accurately and efficiently. Having collected everything you need, you can start marking. For the ceiling, PVC panels with a width of 100 mm are usually used, the so-called. lining. Marking lines for mounting the profile should be done every 0.4 m. First, the lowest point on the ceiling is determined, marks are made from it corresponding to the width of the panel. Then, using a level around the perimeter of the room, marks are made at the points where anchors or dowels will be attached with which the frame will be attached to the walls or ceiling.

The supporting frame profiles must be fastened perpendicular to the PVC boards attached to them. To simplify the marking process, experts recommend using a thin cord in addition to marking and leveling. It is rubbed with colored chalk, the ends are pressed against the wall to be marked - a colored trace will remain along its entire length.

How to properly assemble the frame

The quality of the finish will depend on the correct assembly of the frame, which is a connection of profiles. Different materials can be used as a profile:

• wood,
• plastic crate,
• metal.

Naturally, each of them has its own advantages, which determine the rationality of using the material in certain conditions. A wood frame, for example, is recommended for use in rooms with normal air humidity, if this option is acceptable in a kitchen, then its use in a bathroom or on a balcony is unlikely to be appropriate. In any case, using natural and environmentally friendly wood material, it will be necessary to treat it with a high-quality impregnation that protects against moisture penetration and the development of fungi.

When installing a wooden frame, fastening of the bars is carried out every 0.6 m, with dowels or impact screws. If you want to give the boards the desired level, use a lining. The wooden frame is somewhat inferior in its characteristics to plastic or metal structures.

The use of U-shaped plastic profiles allows you to take advantage of the following advantages:

• low cost,
• light weight,
• ease of fastening work,
• the ability to withstand moisture, steam, temperature extremes.

The installation of the profile is carried out every 0.3 m, respectively, pre-drawn lines. Mounting dowels or self-tapping screws used during installation are installed after 1 m. The profile is joined at an angle, it is necessary to control that the joints are smooth, with well-fitting profile surfaces.

As an advantage, it is possible to note the possibility of using profile grooves for gaskets electric cable.

PVC wall panels are lightweight and do not require the construction of a particularly powerful frame. If, nevertheless, it is decided to mount a metal crate, then the cable will have to be laid in special corrugated PVC pipes - this will eliminate the possibility of damage to the power cable braid by the sharp edges of the frame profile.

Basic rules for the installation of plastic profiles and panels

When installing a PVC profile, the following rules should be followed:

• installation should begin after the material has adapted to the room temperature, especially if it was stored in a room with a temperature below +10 C,
• lamellas should be placed perpendicular to the direction of the frame rails,
• if the room is observed high humidity, then ventilation cuts are made in the frame,
• we should not forget about the need for 5 mm expansion gaps, taking into account the possibility of changing the parameters of the material with increasing temperature,
• installation of panels without a pattern is carried out arbitrarily, if there is a pattern on the surface - work starts from the left corner and moves to the right,
• it is impossible to plan the installation of PVC structures and use them as a finish in rooms with temperatures above +40 C, such as bath or steam rooms.

Installation procedure

ceiling

You can proceed directly to the installation of panels after the completion of the construction of the frame. They begin installation from the extreme strip, it is fixed in the very corner, to the transverse profile using self-tapping screws. Each next panel will be inserted into the groove of the previous one. The procedure will be repeated until the finish reaches the opposite wall. If necessary, the last panel is cut to width. But you can do it in another way: turn the panel so that the mounting lock is on the other side, then cut the groove from the side.

Since the material is brittle, the use of sharp external influences on it can lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface, which cannot be eliminated.

When applying panels during installation, do not apply special efforts to them. As a handy tool, if necessary, a clerical knife can be used, edges plastic panels can be directed with its narrow blade.

After completing the installation of the last panel, you can proceed with the installation of the skirting board. For its fastening, liquid nails are used, they are applied to the inside. Then the plinth is pressed tightly against the finished ceiling surface and held for 10 seconds. Residual glue is carefully removed.

Since liquid nails harden very quickly, you should hurry up with the removal of sagging.

wall decoration

Using PVC wall panels for a bathroom or toilet, the owners of a house or apartment get the opportunity to quickly equip a practical and sufficient cozy interior in sanitary facilities. The process of finishing the walls has almost the same technology that is used when installing the ceiling.

A frame made of plastic or a metal profile is mounted on the wall treated with an antifungal primer. The installation of the first panel is carried out by inserting it together with the corner into the profile, the subsequent ones are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones and fixed on the metal rails with the help of clamps. The last panel on the wall is installed in a U-shaped corner and, together with it, is attached to the frame. The next step is to install the corners.

Some difficulties may arise when performing installation work on the walls, where the installation of switches and sockets is required. Before installing the finishing plates in this case, install the ducts and lay the electrical cable. When mounting the panels, it will be necessary to cut holes of the appropriate size in the marked places for the installation of sockets.

1. When buying PVC boards, you should make sure that there are no curved transverse stripes on them, the color of the material should be uniform, and no physical flaws should be observed on the surface. It is good if the surface of the panels is protected by a special film.
2. Purchased panels must have the same shade or solid pattern, they should not have areas with blurry pattern or poor quality paint.
3. You should make sure that there are a sufficient number of stiffening ribs inside the panel - a large number of them can provide material strength and resistance to pressure loads.
4. When attempting to connect the panels, gaps should not form, the surface at the junction should look like a monolith.
5. You should not purchase materials that, when joined, give a different opening - at one end of the seam it can be 1 mm, at the other - up to 4 mm.
6. Refrain from buying panels on the surface of which there are waves and stiffeners are visible - this is evidence of poor quality.
7. It is not recommended to buy additional material from another batch, even if the article matches.

Wall decoration is an obligatory stage of any construction. The main requirements for the finishing material are durability and practicality. These are the qualities that PVC panels have.

These products can be used both outside and inside buildings. But in order for them to serve for a long time and reliably, they should be mounted correctly. Therefore, a special auxiliary profile is used for such purposes. It allows you to securely fasten the canvases, regardless of their direction and place of fixation.

Peculiarities

Finishing pvc walls panels today is practiced quite often. This is due to the fact that the material is well processed and is not afraid of moisture. Fastening of such products is carried out on a previously prepared frame. This design is complemented by a special mounting profile. Externally, these products look different, depending on the purpose of the design.

With the help of such a profile, several main tasks are solved at once.

• Giving additional structural strength. This is important if the systems are mounted outside the house. Properly closed slots will prevent the entry a large number moisture, and also minimize the risk of wind exposure to the panels themselves.
• Creating a decorative effect Panel joints cannot be perfectly aligned, which leads to the formation of gaps. Therefore, the profile helps to hide these shortcomings, creating a unique external architecture of the structure.

Profile for PVC panels are made from various materials.

• Plastic. This type of product is quite common. Differs in durability and simplicity of installation. It should also highlight the low cost of products, which led to such a wide distribution. Almost always this profile is used for interior work. Plastic is easy to paint, which allows you to give it various shades. But the most common color is white.
• Metal. The metal profile is much less common. The material is durable and has a unique design. Aluminum or steel structures easily resist external climatic influences. But with plastic panels, it is used only to create durable or designer surfaces.

Some manufacturers can give the profile a color according to the customer's order. Thus, one can easily supplement these building structures the main design of the room or facade.

Kinds

The profile is one of the main elements for the installation of plastic panels. Its use allows you to quickly and accurately align all the elements in the plane you need. But the surface of the walls or ceiling is not always perfectly flat.

Therefore, several types of profiles are used today to organize such systems.

• U-shaped. These structures are also called starting. They are installed before the start of installation work on each wall. Products are intended for closing the ends of panels. Often they are attached around the perimeter doorways or window frames. The size of these products can vary over a wide range (10 mm, 12 mm, etc.).
• F-shaped. Technically, these elements are installed in the same places as in the previous version. But here such a profile can be more called a finishing one, since its use gives a decorative finish to the structures after their installation.

• H-shaped. This type of profile is distinguished by the presence of two internal grooves on opposite sides. It is connecting and is used when one lamella needs to be supplemented with another. This occurs when the length of the panel is not enough to completely cover the wall of the house. Docking profiles are the most versatile and often in demand.
• Angles. These elements are installed at the joints of two panels. Docking corners are of several types: external, internal, decorative and universal. The shape of this profile is completely different. Some products are equipped with several grooves, which allows them to be used in different types corners.

The dimensions of the corner can vary from 10x10 mm to 50x50 mm. Particular attention should be paid to universal products. To use them in a certain plane, you just need to bend the structure in the direction you need. But at the same time, it is impossible to use them reusably for solving various problems.

All corners are also equipped with special grooves where panels can be placed at a certain depth. With the help of such structures, you can get a perfectly flat vertical surface without distortions.

• Skirting boards. They are not classic profiles. Use them to close the joints between the panels near the floor. This allows you to create a smooth transition while decorating the surface. They are made mostly from plastic. There are many modifications on the market that differ in design and practicality.
• Reiki. Structures are used to create reference elements. Can be supplemented with various fastening systems. They are not used so often, as they are not mandatory elements.

All types of profiles can be plastic or metal. In most cases, aluminum is used, but there are other types of products. This allows you to select elements to match your design.

How to choose the right one?

The profile for PVC panels is used quite often. Today, there are many modifications of such products on the market, but they are all designed to solve a single task.

There are several factors to consider when purchasing this product.

• Profile view. Here it is important to consider only the place where this product will be used. If you need to clad only part of the surface without corners and openings, then you only need starting elements that will be located around the perimeter. Sometimes you will need decorative overlays.
• Design. Particular attention should be paid to the color of the material. Today, many companies produce a white profile that suits various styles of interiors. But if you need colored products, then they can be found in various specialized stores or purchased on order.

• Material. Manufacturers do not offer much choice here. In most cases, you have to choose between metal or plastic. It is important to analyze only the quality of the product itself. If you plan to use a plastic profile on the street, then you need to give preference to one that can withstand frost without losing its strength characteristics.
• Technical specifications. Particular attention is paid here only to the width of the groove, which will include a plastic panel. A too narrow profile should not be used, as over time it may become unusable. The width of the groove is almost always standard, since all panels are produced for the same size.

If you purchased non-standard modifications of the slats, then you must definitely check whether the profile is suitable for them.

Installation

Installation of a profile for PVC panels is not a difficult task. Almost anyone can handle it. Before attaching the guides, you should perform several preparatory steps.

• Surface leveling. Initially, the walls or ceiling are analyzed for damage. If the surfaces have large cracks or drops, it is advisable to eliminate them with the help of special mixtures. This is important if the panels are planned to be mounted directly on top of the wall in the future without additional frames.
• Construction of the crate. Suitable for plastic panels wooden frame which can easily support the weight of these products. But you can design it from special metal structures.

The profile fastening algorithm consists of several successive steps.

• Installation of starting elements. They are located along the perimeter of the finishing surface (ceiling, wall). It is important here to place the opposite structures in such a position that they are in the same plane. If this is not done, then skew may occur, which will affect the panels themselves and their decorative appearance. Starting profiles are fastened with brackets or special self-tapping screws. Here it is important to correctly set them horizontally and vertically. The installation of panels in the future depends on this.
• Installation of corner elements. In this case, both internal and external elements are used. In most cases, they can act as starting ones. You can fix them according to the same principle as the previous type.
• Fastening of internal intermediate profiles. Systems of this type are installed on walls that are too long, where it is impossible to find a panel of the right size.

Plastic panels can expand or contract with temperature changes. Therefore, it is necessary that when installed in a profile, a small gap remains between the wall and the material. It is desirable to take it into account when designing the entire system. Before fastening all profiles, it is advisable to choose the direction of laying the sheets.

It is not for nothing that polyvinyl chloride has gained such wide popularity in the construction industry. A wide variety of materials are made from it, which are used in construction and decoration. The installation of PVC panels on walls and especially the ceiling is a fairly common occurrence, and today every construction team offers such services. However, due to the simplicity of the device and installation, it is quite possible to produce self-installation pvc boards.

Where to begin?

The first thing that is sometimes given insufficient attention is measurement and planning. It is not enough to measure the length and width of the ceiling and simply buy the required number of panels, all aspects of the preparation must be taken into account. If the surface is perfectly flat, then a simple pasting of the plates on the ceiling or walls will be enough for an unpretentious taste. In the event that the plans include the point of giving the room not only aesthetic appeal, but also practicality, it is worth considering installing a full-fledged frame in which it is possible to hide various kinds of communications, for example, the same lighting.

Of course, it is difficult to imagine a job in which there is no need to use a tool. In this case, you will need the following:

• a hammer drill or drill with a hammer function to the delight of all neighbors during installation work,
• ladder (for work in apartments with a standard ceiling height of 2.5 meters the best choice there will be an inexpensive aluminum ladder 1.8 meters high),
• hacksaws for wood and metal (a hacksaw is best for cutting PVC panels, allowing you to make the cut edges as smooth as possible),
• tape measure and building level,
• a paint or shoe knife (a well-sharpened steel cut is also suitable for it, the blade should be tilted at 60 degrees, the optimal blade width is 10 centimeters),
• hammer,
• self-tapping screws or wallpaper nails with which the PVC panels are fastened to the frame.

Finishing with PVC panels provides for the mandatory use of these tools for work, since without them it is impossible to accurately install (the only exception is a puncher, which is needed to quickly level the problem surface). After selecting the tool, you should proceed to the first stage of work, to markup.

Preliminary preparation and measurements

First, the markup is applied to the entire work surface. Because PVC ceiling boards have standard sizes lamellae, it all depends on preferences. The most popular solution is "lining" - long strips that are 10 cm wide. It is necessary to draw lines to install the profile every 400 millimeters. The first mark is made along the width of the PVC panel, starting from the lowest point on the ceiling. After that, using the building level around the perimeter of the surface, marks are drawn for attaching anchors or dowels, depending on preference, with which the frame will be mounted to the surface of the wall or ceiling.

It should be noted that the profiles of the main supporting frame are always attached perpendicular to the location of the PVC boards. Experts recommend using not only a marking system and a level for marking, but also an ordinary rope of small thickness for quick marking. How to make it? Simple enough. You just need to “paint” the rope with colored crayons and press its ends to the surface - in this case, the marks made with chalk will remain on the wall. This method will significantly speed up the markup process, which will save time spent on preliminary work. Finishing with PVC panels of any surface, be it a wall or a ceiling, begins with the assembly of the frame.

Frame assembly

Initially, the frame is a profile connection made from different materials. There are the following types of frames:

• wood frame,
• plastic trim,
• metal profiles,

Each of the varieties has its advantages and is used depending on preferences.

A wooden frame is built infrequently, since such a design has more disadvantages than practical advantages. Wood is afraid of moisture and freezing, as well as drying out due to heat, for this reason, the question of the need to install a wood frame, especially in those rooms in which the influence of climate is noticeably felt (balcony or loggia, for example) is quite controversial.

If there are no contraindications, wooden beams fastened to the flooring every 60 centimeters with dowels or impact screws, a lining must be used to level the level of the boards. In general, this type of frame is inferior in its properties to similar structures made of plastic and metal.

Plastic U-shaped profiles have many advantages, among which stand out:

• low cost,
• light weight (which is especially important when carrying out installation work on the ceiling),
• ease of fastening
• insensitivity to moisture and heat.

Such profiles are fastened quite easily. According to pre-drawn lines, every 30 centimeters, dowels or self-tapping screws are installed, which are screwed in every meter. It is important to pay attention to the fact that when joining profiles, especially at an angle, it is necessary to use a hacksaw and a miter box (which is a tray for cutting boards at an angle of 45, 30 and 90 degrees). In this case, the cut will be hardly noticeable, and the joints will turn out to be even and tightly adjacent to each other. Another advantage of the plastic crate is that the internal grooves form cable channels for laying communications (wiring for lighting, for example).

A frame made of a metal profile is most suitable for the construction of vertical areas and is most often used for finishing walls with drywall (since the sheets of this material have significant weight). PVC wall panels, due to their light weight, do not require a powerful and strong frame, for this reason, preference is given to plastic when choosing a design. When using metal, cable laying for lighting must be carried out in corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes (PVC) to ensure fire resistance and prevent damage to the braid of power cables on the sharp edges of the metal frame.

Installation requirements

Despite the ease of working with PVC products, the panels also require certain requirements to be met. Among them are the following:

• before installation, the material must be allowed to rest, this is especially true for those conditions when it was stored at temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius,
• PVC lamellas are arranged perpendicular to the frame rails,
• with a high degree of humidity in the room, it is necessary to make ventilation cuts in the frame,
• during installation, gaps of 5 millimeters must be taken into account to take into account temperature changes in PVC coatings,

• when installing coatings with a pattern, work is always carried out from the left corner to the right (this does not apply to plain coatings),
• cannot be produced installation work in those rooms whose internal temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius (that is, these PVC panels are categorically not suitable for creating an interior in steam rooms and baths),

Installation of ceiling panels

After the frame has been mounted, it is worth starting the installation of PVC panels. The strips are cut along the length of the ceiling and mounted in sequence, starting from the last one. The first strip is attached to the very corner, with the help of self-tapping screws, to the transverse profiles, which form additional rigidity of the frame. The next panels are already inserted into the grooves of the previous ones, so the installation is carried out to the end.

There is a possibility of difficulty at the stage of installing the last panel, since cutting the material to width will be required. There is another option with fixing the final panel: when it is turned over with a fixing lock to the other side and the groove is trimmed from the side to the required length.

After the installation of all panels has been completed, the turn of the final work comes, namely the installation ceiling plinth. It is put quite simply: a layer of liquid nails is applied to the inside, after which the plinth is pressed against the finished ceiling and held for 10 seconds to dry the glue. After that, it remains only to remove excess glue from the surface and the ceiling is mounted.

It is worth noting that liquid nails on moldings dry out almost instantly, so the removal of sagging should be done as quickly as possible.

PVC panels are suitable for the design of any room, since there are a huge variety of models that are very diverse in external style, but the biggest plus is their use for interior decoration of the bathroom and toilet due to the distinctive ability of PVC to resist moisture. This is a significant plus in case of flooding of the bathroom by neighbors from above. The panels will withstand the load and do not have to do a thorough repair. In addition, PVC boards are easy to clean and are resistant to mold and bacteria, which makes them suitable for kitchen finishing as well. Soot and grease resulting from cooking can be easily washed off with simple products. household appliances, so the choice of such material will be correct.

Installing PVC boards on walls

PVC wall panels allow you to give the premises a cozy interior in a short time and at no particular cost. The installation process is not too different from similar ceiling installation work, and is painted literally in steps:

• a frame made of metal profiles is installed on a wall pre-treated with an antifungal mixture (this is due to the fact that PVC wall plates are thicker and heavier, and a more powerful frame than plastic is required to hold them),
• then the first panel with a corner is inserted into the profile and mounted against the wall. The second and third panels are inserted into the groove at an angle and attached to the first with the help of clamps (this is the name given to plastic brackets with serrated latches that allow the panel to be securely fixed to the metal frame rails),
• after that, all subsequent panels are mounted on rails in the same way,
• the last panel is inserted into the U-shaped corner and installed with it on the frame.

After that, finishing work is carried out related to the fastening of corners and cornices. It is often possible that the wall should have access to electrical outlets and light switches, which will add some complication during the installation process. In this case, the installation of ducts and the laying of power cables must be done before the installation of PVC boards begins. After that, when paneling, it is enough to simply cut the hole for the sockets of the required size.

It is important to remember the following at any stage of working with panels:

• PVC material is quite brittle, so it should not be subjected to significant external force when laying the panels. A strong hand pressure on the panel is enough to cause a crack to appear on its surface that cannot be repaired.
• The panels must be carefully applied one to the other, without any effort. If necessary, it is allowed to use an improvised tool, for example, a clerical knife, the narrow blade of which will allow you to direct the edges plastic pvc panels.

At the moment, a PVC plate, which will not cause difficulties to buy in almost any variation and color, is one of the most popular materials for interior and exterior decoration. Before buying, it is only worth checking the quality of the product by looking at the fact that there are no transverse uneven stripes and the number of stiffeners - to make sure that the product meets the stated expectations, and then the installation of such a coating will not cause trouble, and the PVC panels themselves will last long enough.

During repairs, you don’t always want to get involved with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There are more simple technology- wall decoration with plastic panels. You can cope on your own even without much experience construction works and in a day or two to carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony / loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This type of finishing material is made of PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is extruded into a mold. On the prefabricated panels draw a drawing. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a flat, but a textured surface. The drawing applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but such materials cost about two times more.

Another technology is to apply the drawing directly to the plastic, after which it is covered with two layers of varnish. Cheaper technology, but the service life and quality of the pattern is lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those designed for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, and wall ones - from 8 to 10 mm and a greater thickness of walls and partitions. You can determine which view is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material differs in that it has a flat surface and, with a tight joint, the seams are not very noticeable.

There is another size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges, which are more typical for plastic lining. If you finish the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to a wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

In width, plastic wall panels are most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are other non-standard sizes, but these are most common. For the price, you can observe a rather strong spread - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the pattern, etc.

Name/photo	Parameters (width/length/thickness)	Coloring type	Manufacturer	Price for 1 panel
violet pink	250mm*2700mm*8mm		V-Plast, Russia	120 rub
Kanamala	250mm*2700mm*9mm	lamination	Vivipan	220 rub
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise	950mm*480mm*3mm		Russia	128 rub
scarlet	250mm*2700mm*8mm		Cronoplast (Russia)	215 rub

Thin PVC wall panels

Above we talked about products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for not using them. Therefore, thin wall plastic panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push through. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950*480mm or so.

The method of installation is different for them - they are glued to the walls. Due to the fact that this finishing material has a very small thickness, it is cut with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But in order to avoid difficulties during the installation process, when buying, you need to track some points:

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. It is necessary to take one bar so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, inspect it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

Correct technology for mounting plastic panels on walls

What is good about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself, it takes a little time. Well, and one more plus - you need the usual tools:

That's all you need for PVC installation panels on the walls. It takes time - one or two days, depending on the experience and repaired areas.

What to make a crate

PVC installation panels on the walls according to the technology should be made on the crate. The crate is made from:

Of the three listed materials for mounting plastic panels in the bathroom, it is best to use plastic. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Feels good in a humid environment galvanization, but it should be good quality otherwise it will rust. The most unimportant material is wood, but with proper processing, they also cost years. And for this to be true, follow the recommendations for application on the antibacterial composition exactly. In some cases, it is enough to smear with a brush a couple of times, in others - soak for a while and then dry.

How to make a crate

Before starting the installation of the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and everything that can fall off. If there are large indentations on the surface, it is better to close them up, and strongly protruding parts can be cut off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After that, you can already proceed with the installation of the crate.

Lathing slats are located perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you mount the panels vertically, the crate - horizontally and vice versa. Lathing battens are installed at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. The optimal distance is 30 cm (the panel will “walk” less). Planks are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The crate is fastened under the plastic panels, most often on dowels. IN concrete wall put 6 * 40 mm (so that a piece does not fall out on the back of the concrete partition), in a brick - 6 * 60 mm. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be even and beautiful, the crate must be set in the same plane. To do this, wooden strips are installed under the wooden planks where necessary (you can - pieces of plywood), only they also need to be treated with a composition from fungi and mold.

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when placing metal profiles in the same plane, but they can also be used when installing wooden bars.

If you decide to make a crate from plastic mounting profiles, then you should take into account one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals / horizontals very carefully. One more thing: along the perimeter of walls, doors and windows, it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as plastic guides: we will attach starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the actual wall plastic panels in the store, you will need to buy some more fittings - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary in order to give the finish a finished and neat look.

At the level of the floor and ceiling, you can use either a starting or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product that has a characteristic cut.

Finishing walls with PVC panels begins with the installation of selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top / bottom. They are attached to the installed slats of the crate. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the crate. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert panels into it.

The problem node is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same below)

Next, cut the first panel along the length or height of the wall. Cut plastic wall panels with a saw with a blade for metal. When working strongly with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean - push through. In order for the strip to fit into its place without problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

A protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which it is inserted into the corner profile with the cut side, tucking the edges into the upper and lower. Lightly tapping with the palm of your hand, drive the bar all the way, check the verticality with a level by applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they are fixed to each plank of the crate.

Having installed and fixed the first strip, cut off the second one, join it with the first one, fix it, etc. No complications. Problems can only arise with the last panel on the wall. It usually has to be cut in width, and then try to fill it immediately into the groove of the previous bar and into the corner or starting profile. It does not always work out neatly - often the plastic is jammed. This situation can be avoided without fixing the second corner profile. Then, a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, all this is joined together with the previous bar, and only then the corner profile is fixed. This is not entirely correct, since only one half of the corner profile is attached, and the second remains loose. But having suffered, trying to do the right thing, you don’t pay attention to it. Then everything repeats - further wall decoration with plastic panels occurs in the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall is familiar to us, then not everyone likes the corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or clerical knife. If a strip of plastic is cut from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. From the front side, this will not be visible in any way, and torment with the last panel can be avoided. And outwardly, many people like this way more.

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel, fasten it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, try it on. If everything is fine, use this piece as a template, transferring exactly the place of the cut. This is also not according to technology, but such wall decoration with plastic panels looks, it seems to me, better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls

Although the method of decorating walls with plastic panels described above is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly even after plastering on lighthouses or. It is clear that the crate is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they go to the violation of technology - they glue plastic panels on silicone or on mounting foam.

Starting profiles in this case will still have to be installed, but they will need to be fixed to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone (islets with a step of 10-15 cm) is applied to the back side of the panel, the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, fixed in one or two places with the appropriate fasteners. Continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on flat (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the trim without destroying the plastic panels.