Proper floor insulation in a wooden house. Features of floor insulation in a wooden house How to insulate floors in a wooden house

Wooden houses require a more careful approach to floor insulation work. This is necessary, first of all, to preserve the structure itself from decay and fungus. A warm floor makes the house cozy, it is pleasant and comfortable to be in it.

Before proceeding with the insulation of the floor on your own, you need to familiarize yourself with the types and features of heaters. As well as the algorithm for performing work. This is what will be discussed in our article.

Peculiarities

Wooden floors, unlike concrete, are much warmer. Wood is a capricious material and when building a house it is not always possible to achieve the desired effect. The ratio of thickness and thermal conductivity is often disproportionate, so floor insulation in a house made of wood is simply necessary.

The possibility of floor insulation is not only in new houses, but also in long-built ones.

dampness;
the appearance and reproduction of mold;
the appearance of microorganisms and fungi that adversely affect the health of those living in the house;
high consumption of thermal energy for heating the house;
building damage and destruction.

Work on floor insulation can be carried out independently. This will significantly reduce the budget. A wide range of materials is presented in construction stores, work with which is possible even without certain skills.

Insulation of structures involves different types of work:

insulation of floors above the basement;
insulation of interfloor ceilings;
insulation of the ceiling between the living room and the attic.

In each case, materials are used not only to maintain optimal temperature conditions, but also for sound insulation. A well-insulated first floor is a guarantee that the house will become comfortable for living.

Floor types

In houses made of wood, two types of floors are used: concrete and wood.

The second option falls into two categories:

floor board, glued wood;
parquet board and laminate.

The concrete floor can be made by hand without the involvement of specialists. There are two options for laying concrete: on the ground and on logs. The most common is the first option.

All work is carried out in several stages:

priming;
sand;
thermal insulation;
waterproofing.

The next step is to fill the floor with concrete screed. If a warm floor is installed, then it must be installed at this stage.

wooden floor, like concrete pavement, also has several layers:

bulk floor (rough);
waterproofing layer;
thermal insulation layer;
clean coverage.

If installation of a warm floor system is necessary, then it is carried out at the construction stage between the finishing and rough coatings. The wooden floor is a natural material, which means it is environmentally friendly. During operation, substances harmful to humans will not be released into the air. Such a coating has an aesthetic and noble appearance.

What can be insulated?

Floor insulation in wooden house carried out in order to reduce heat loss. The most commonly used and inexpensive heaters are expanded clay and sand. Below is a list of other popular floor insulators.

Mineral wool. The main features of this heat insulator are low thermal conductivity, durability, high noise insulation properties, and moisture absorption. It is also worth noting that mineral wool is an environmentally friendly material.

In order to determine whether a product is of high quality or not, you need to check its color. Mineral wool, made from natural raw materials, has a brown color. A product that has been manufactured using prohibited substances will have a yellow tint.

This insulation is produced in plates and rolls. Roll insulation most common when used over large areas. Mineral wool is very convenient, no special knowledge and skills are required during operation. Everything can be done by hand. The material is lightweight and breathable.

Polyurethane foam. The heater is quite expensive. This will require not only the help of specialists, but also special equipment. The material is close to polystyrene in its properties. But he will not withstand the screed. They can insulate the floor from below. The average service life of such a heater is 30 years.

Expanded clay. The material is quite common. Expanded clay is granules of fired foamed clay. The material has high performance properties, lightweight. But with all the variety of advantages, there is one serious drawback. Expanded clay absorbs moisture very well, so when using it, it is imperative to install waterproofing.

Sawdust is a bulk insulation option. Against mice, sawdust mixed with slaked lime powder is used: 8 parts of sawdust to 2 parts of lime. Such a heater can be poured between the rough and finishing floors. The average layer thickness is 20-40 cm, depending on climatic conditions.

Isolon is polyethylene, which has a foam structure. The thickness of this coating is 10 mm. Foiled on one or both sides. It is laid on top of the cotton wool. Also used as underfloor heating.

What is better to choose?

A wooden house can be placed on a foundation and have a basement (basement), or it can be located on piles.

Stilt houses are in great demand among consumers. This is due to the fact that such a design does not require during construction and operation a large number time and energy. There are also no requirements for the soil on which the building will be located. The choice of insulation for a house on stilts requires taking into account the design features. With the right approach, the house will become not only warm, but also cozy.

But with all the pluses, there is a drawback: the house is located at a distance from the ground. The structure is not protected by the basement and is exposed to winds. In this case, it turns out that the house is protected from soil moisture, but at the same time the entire floor area is available to winds and frosts. In order for the house to please its owners, it is worth making high-quality floor insulation.

Floor insulation in stilt houses is carried out in several stages:

Training. Before starting work on floor insulation, it is worth providing full access to the logs. This is done to enable verification. After work has begun, it will not be possible to inspect.
Draft floor. There are a lot of ways to create a subfloor, but still builders often use the traditional one. It is necessary to nail a beam on the logs, which in the future will serve as a support for the flooring from the boards. Beam and logs are processed by special means against rot and fungus.

But do not use tools that create a film. This will prevent the wood from breathing, causing it to rot. Boards for flooring under the subfloor should also be processed. This is necessary to increase the service life of the material. When calculating, it is worth considering the weight of the insulation that will be used. As a flooring, you can use plywood for light insulation. If, for example, polystyrene is used, then a reinforced mesh can be used to strengthen the lower layer. This will help distribute the weight.

Vapor barrier. Vapor barrier must be used so that moisture does not get on the insulation. For this, it is better to use polyethylene or roofing material. These materials belong to the economy class. When laying them, it is necessary to provide ventilation products. The vapor barrier layer must be both on top of the insulation and on the bottom. This will not allow the condensate formed during the temperature difference to get on the materials.

Clean floor. The finished floor is the final stage of floor insulation, which can also be a topcoat. For this, absolutely any materials can be used (solid wood, chipboard, plywood).

To make the house on stilts look presentable, as well as for additional protection from the effects of climatic conditions, experts advise making an easy version of the basement floor.

Insulated floor maintenance

Manufacturers

Many companies are engaged in the production of materials for floor insulation. Among them are world-famous brands and those who are just starting their journey. Most companies have almost a century of history. In order to help you in your choice, below is a ranking of the most popular manufacturers. All of them represent materials with proven quality.

Knauf. An international manufacturer with over 90 years of experience. Insulation materials are popular all over the world. Products are made from natural raw materials the latest technologies. All heaters are environmentally friendly and harmless. Knauf has been a market leader for many years.

rockwool. The company works on modern technologies and specializes in basalt thermal insulation materials. The advantage of this raw material in high performance and affordable price. In Russia, branches are located in the Moscow, Chelyabinsk and Leningrad regions. The company is in second place in the ranking of manufacturers of insulation materials.
Paroc. The company also specializes mainly in the production of mineral wool. Time-tested quality. The manufacturer focuses on saving thermal energy for heating a living space and excellent sound insulation. But the disadvantage of this company is that all heaters have a fairly high price. That is why the company is ranked third.

Here are the walls and the roof wooden house, Windows And Doors Are Inserted. It's time to move on to the inside finishing work. And they usually start with the flooring. This is one of the most important and crucial stages of work, because the general microclimate in the premises of the wooden structure and the level of heating costs will depend on how correctly and efficiently the floor cake is made. At the same time, close attention should be paid to the choice of floor insulation, because up to 20% of the heat in the house is lost through the flooring.

How to choose a heater?

The most important thing that determines the choice of insulation for processing the finished floor from below is the type of foundation and, accordingly, the design of the floor:

If the foundation is strip, then the floor can be laid directly on the ground or on the floor, arranged along the beams.
A low grillage foundation suggests the same options for flooring as with a strip foundation.
With a high grillage foundation, the floor is arranged along the floors laid on the beams.
If there is a floating slab (this is often done during construction wooden houses on wet soils), then the floor can be laid on logs or on a screed.

So, it becomes clear that there are three options for flooring in a wooden house, on which the choice of material for their insulation directly depends. This is a device of floors on the ground, on a slab and on wooden floors with logs.

Therefore, when choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the mutual influence of the floor pie construction materials.

Wooden floors

Since the floors of a wooden house are also made of wood, when using vapor-tight thermal insulation, all the moisture that is inside the floor structure will be absorbed into the wood and, due to close contact with the insulation, will not be able to go outside. The result of this will be the appearance in a year and a half of fungus, insects and the spread of decay processes.

A completely different result is given by heaters with the property of hygroscopicity.(sawdust, ecowool, cork granules, mineral wool, expanded clay) and due to this they absorb moisture in the same way as wood, but at the same time give it out.

Therefore, with this type of floor device, it is categorically impossible to use various heaters based on polystyrene foam and polystyrene.

Wood and similar materials are incompatible things.

Floors on the ground and slab

In this kind of floor structures, the insulation is covered from above with a screed.

Loose and wadded materials will not be able to provide the required level of strength, although now they also produce mineral wool with a fairly high density.

In addition, these types of thermal insulation are hygroscopic and there is a possibility of them getting wet. And, when wet, they will not be able to give moisture out through the screed.

Therefore, polystyrene foam heaters are most suitable for this type of floor - they are dense and do not absorb moisture.

In addition, when choosing thermal insulation for floors in a wooden house, one should proceed from the following factors:

maximum weight of the floor structure;
required thickness;
humidity- temperature regime inside the house, the presence of temperature differences;
design loads on the floor structure and its operating conditions.

Separately, one should dwell on the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

This indicator determines how warm it will be in a wooden house. It is calculated individually and depends on the climatic conditions in which the house is built, and the thermal conductivity of the insulation itself. To determine the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to multiply the thermal conductivity coefficient indicated in the technical description for a specific insulation by the thermal resistance of the structure (determined according to SNiP "Thermal Protection of Buildings"). This formula helps to accurately calculate what the thermal insulation layer in the floor structure should be in order to ensure optimal temperature conditions in the house.

When choosing thermal insulation for the floor, you should also pay attention to:

ease of installation material;
environmental friendliness;
efficiency, that is, the preservation of its characteristics throughout the entire service life;
fire safety;
density and reliability;
price.

What to insulate?

It is possible to insulate floors in wooden houses different materials. To date, the market building materials replete with a wide variety of thermal insulation from the simplest to the most modern types.

Materials for insulation

Sawdust

The simplest and cheapest insulation. It is easy to apply - just sprinkle it on the rough base of the floor. This material is environmentally friendly and safe. But it has a serious drawback - a high degree of fire hazard. And also when using sawdust as a heater, they will have to be laid in a layer of as much as 0.3 m. Sawdust, in addition, like any wood product, can rot, rodents can start in them. Therefore, just sawdust is most often used to insulate the floor of unused attic spaces.

However, sawdust has recently been increasingly used as a raw material in the production of other more modern and efficient thermal insulation.

Ecowool

Thermal insulation material made from cellulose with the addition of flame retardants and antiseptic compounds. This product has good thermal insulation, vapor permeability. It is environmentally friendly, non-flammable, resistant to rodents and fungi. But ecowool strongly absorbs moisture. This is its main drawback.

Expanded clay

Material with high strength and thermal insulation characteristics. Expanded clay is suitable for the device of floors on the equal bases. To ensure optimal thermal insulation performance, expanded clay should be laid with a layer of at least 15 cm. The convenience of this material is that it can lay all the necessary communications. Expanded clay is quite hygroscopic, therefore, before using it on the ground, waterproofing measures must be taken.

The main advantage of bulk thermal insulation for the floor is their wastelessness and the ability to fill all kinds of (even the most inaccessible) voids.

Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, polyethylene

These materials are vapor-tight thermal insulation that can be used when laying a floor cake on a flat base. For floors on floors with a lag device (in wooden houses on piles, columns, strip and grillage foundations), such material is not suitable due to the laws of building heat engineering.

The thickness of the insulation layer will be 5-10 cm for expanded polystyrene and 5-13 cm for polystyrene.

These types of thermal insulation materials have the following characteristics:

low thermal conductivity;
strength;
resistance to rodents and decay;
resistance to temperature changes.

Expanded polystyrene heaters in our country are presented under the names "Penoplex", "Technoplex", "Knauf".

Polyethylene foam insulation is also used for thermal insulation of floors. One of the varieties of such a heater is a rolled foil material penofol, which has high performance and thermal insulation properties. Penofol is a polyethylene foam coated on one or both sides with a layer of foil.

The high thermal insulation performance of this material is ensured by retaining heat in air bubbles sealed in polyethylene balls. The foil acts as a barrier that traps heat in the winter and reflects the heat from the sun in the summer, thus maintaining optimum thermal regime in room.

Penofol is also a waterproofing material.

It is light, non-hygroscopic, safe for health and has a long service life (up to 25 years).

Fiberboard

Not a very common type of insulation, which is made from a mixture of liquid glass, cement powder and wood wool. Such material retains heat well and has high soundproofing characteristics. Such a heater, due to its hygroscopicity, is not suitable for laying floors on the ground, but it is ideal for floors on beams. To insulate the floor of the first floor, it is laid with a layer of 15 cm, the second - 10 cm.

Foam glass

Foam glass is obtained by foaming quartz sand. This is a durable slab or granular material with high vapor barrier and noise insulation characteristics, which is able to withstand the weight of a truck.

Fiberboard slabs are used for floor insulation on a flat base, granules for backfilling between joists on subfloors. The thickness of the insulation layer in this case is 18 cm for the first floor and 15 cm for the second.

Mineral wool

This type of thermal insulation is by far the most popular. Mineral wool insulation is made from slag fiber, fiberglass or basalt.

The most budgetary mineral wool insulation is glass wool, which is made from broken glass, sand, borax, dolomite, limestone and soda.

The raw material for slag wool is blast-furnace slag, which is a waste in the production of pig iron. Due to its excessive hygroscopicity, slag wool has practically not been used recently.

Stone wool is made from basalt rocks such as gabbro, basalt. Diabase with the addition of carbonate rocks (limestone and dolomite).

The main advantages of such heaters:

they do not conduct heat well, and, therefore, retain it well;
vapor permeability. The insulation provides good air exchange, the floor construction is "breathable", which allows you to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions in a wooden house. The likelihood of condensation in the insulation is small;
high density;
high soundproofing characteristics;
they are resistant to high temperatures and fire, no smoke is emitted when in contact with fire;
waterproof. Stone wool and glass wool do not absorb moisture, so you should not be afraid of dampness inside the field structure;
long service life - up to 50 years. This type of thermal insulation is not subject to rotting and damage by rodents.

The disadvantages of mineral wool insulation are ambiguous. Currently, many large manufacturers have practically reduced them to zero, and the rest are successfully working to minimize them.

Among the shortcomings, it is noted that when working with mineral wool, especially glass wool, a lot of dust arises, since the insulation consists of fragile fibers, which, when damaged, form very thin and sharp fragments. Getting on the skin during the installation of insulation, they lead to itching. It is dangerous for these fibers to enter the respiratory system. Therefore, it is possible to lay such insulation only using personal protective equipment, such as a respirator, overalls, goggles, gloves.

When wet, mineral wool loses its high thermal performance. Therefore, such heaters are specially treated with hydrophobes. To reduce the likelihood of mineral wool getting wet, it is recommended to install waterproofing on the side of the room and vapor barrier on the side of the street.

Until now, builders argue that mineral wool releases phenol-formaldehyde resins into the air. But data latest research indicate their very small amount, which cannot have a detrimental effect on human health.

Mineral wool can be produced in the form of rolls or plates. Mineral wool material in rolls has a lower density than thermal insulation in slabs. It is used more often as an addition to slab material or where a low level of thermal insulation is required.

The main trademarks of mineral wool are Izover, Rokvol, Knauf, Ursa, TechnoNIKOL, Ecover, Izovol, Parok and others.

Professionals cannot give an unambiguous answer to the question about floor insulation for a wooden house - which choice is the best.

Cold winters still take place, and you need to prepare well for them so that living in the house is 100 percent comfortable. Underfloor heating is the basis on which it depends how pleasant it is to be indoors when it is cool outside. There are convenient options for insulating this part of the building without removing the top layer - it's easy to do it yourself if you follow simple recommendations.

We insulate the floors from the basement - when is it appropriate?

Any wooden house quickly loses heat, this is due to the peculiarity of the material. Therefore, the insulation of all parts related to the external environment is mandatory. Walls are only part of the overall structure, which must undergo a thorough heat blocking procedure. The process of working with the floor will solve such problems as:

excessive energy consumption for space heating;
high humidity - relevant for the transitional seasons;
rotting of wooden building elements;
the appearance of fungus, mold, which poses a danger to the health of residents of the house.

Most often, in cottages, floors are insulated above a cold basement, because. in the cold season, they cool down quickly and have a low temperature even if the room is heated using their boiler system. Poor or no insulation means icy floors that are useless for carpeting. The problem is only solved proper insulation, there are simple techniques that can be used without removing the old floor. It is better to spend money on such an event once than to constantly spend extra gas or electricity on double heating rooms.

In the event that the building has already been built, and there is a need for additional floor insulation, it is more expedient to do this from below, i.e. without removing floors. Benefits of the bottom technique:

the ceiling height in the rooms will remain the same, because there will be no need to raise the floors due to insulation;
no need to specifically spend money on insulating compounds of increased density and rigidity due to the load of furniture, appliances and other items in the house;
you will protect not only the floor itself from freezing, but also all floor structures, which will extend their service life and generally make the home warmer;
there will be a change in the location of the dew point from the inside to the surface of the floor - this will get rid of the decay of wooden elements.

The method of floor insulation from below has only one limitation - the subfloor is too low, in which it is impossible to be for work. Such cottage buildings are quite rare. If this is your case, choose the floor insulation option from above, i.e. with the procedure for opening it and filling it with a suitable insulating material.

Minvata - fiber insulator

Mineral wool is a building insulation made up of many fibers in three distinct types: glass; stone or basalt; slags. To work with the floor, basalt canvas is most preferable, because. it is easiest to mount it under the floor structure. Of the two options - rolled and mats in the form of plates - choose the second, because. it keeps its shape well. Advantages:

good level of thermal insulation;
simple installation technology;
relatively low level of moisture absorption from the environment;
moderate price;
heat resistance and fire safety;
bacteria, mold, fungus do not start in the material.

Disadvantages:

when laying with your own hands, you must use special protection - gloves, clothing, a respirator, glasses, because. there will be many particles of fibers and dust in the air, causing irritation of the skin and respiratory organs;
moisture protection is required, because the structure is susceptible to vapor absorption;
if installed incorrectly, strong shrinkage is possible;
when laying between the lags, you need to leave a gap to the main structure of 5 centimeters.

If you decide to choose mineral fiber, select the material of the desired thickness. Specific data depends on the climate zone, for example, for middle lane Russia is suitable for an indicator of 100-150 millimeters. Basalt wool is suitable for all types of floors, including the attic.

Styrofoam - air material from granules

Styrofoam consists of foamed PVC granules containing a maximum of air inside, this gives it good thermal insulation qualities. Advantages:

has strength, stability, rigidity;
almost does not absorb moisture - the percentage is lower than that of mineral mats;
has a light weight;
easy to mount, because does not change shape;
inexpensive;
durable, does not mold, does not rot.

Disadvantages:

subject to fire;
brittle to break;
ventilation of the base is required, because does not pass steam and air.

For floor insulation in an ordinary private house, foam boards of the PSB-S-15 brand ten centimeters thick are suitable. At the time of purchase, do not confuse them with granulated polystyrene foam, which easily crumbles into small PVC balls. The latter can also be used as a heater if the repair budget is very small. The material has good thermal conductivity, but has a relatively short service life - no more than ten years.

Polyurethane foam - do I need a device to work with it?

This building material is a foam of two types - light and hard. To work with the floor, the second option is used, because. it does not require special vapor barrier from the basement side and has the best thermal insulation characteristics. The first type is very similar to mineral wool - in the same way, when working with it, you will have to leave gaps for ventilation and waterproof the lower surface. PPU consists of two components:

1. polyol or hydroacid with emulsifiers, polyesters and foaming agents;
2. isocyanate or polyisocyanate and diphenylmethane diisocyanate mixed with each other, which are strong reagents in the complex.

Building material advantages:

fills all cracks and corner spaces thanks to spraying technology;
suitable for bottom mounting;
does not shrink, fireproof;
does not require vapor protection;
durable - lasts up to 50 years;
high level of adhesion to all materials;
high installation speed;
complete environmental friendliness;
has no seams, because is a single sheet after drying.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the high cost, the need for skill in applying and the use of special equipment - the apparatus high pressure which can be rented.

Installation technology - how to keep warm quickly and efficiently?

Mineral wool and foam plastic, having the form of plates, are mounted on the "wrong side" of the floor from the basement side using the same technology. Attach bars with a cross section of 50 to 100 millimeters to the beams from below. Lay a layer of material for thermal insulation on top, like on shelves. The beams should be placed under the "top" floor at such a distance that a few centimeters remain between it and the top surface for ventilation. Hem the heat-insulating "pie" from below with boards, apply waterproofing to prevent vapors from penetrating into the material from the basement side.

The waterproofing function can be performed by ordinary polyethylene film - this is the cheapest and most convenient option. A moisture-proof membrane will cost more - it is stronger and does not prevent air movement, unlike cellophane. In order for the materials to last longer, the film will need to cover the upper surface of the main thermal insulation. The order of all layers from top to bottom will be as follows:

1. flooring;
2. concrete screed or expanded clay;
3. overlap;
4. vapor barrier from the side of the room;
5. a layer of mineral wool or polystyrene;
6. waterproofing from the basement;
7. holding boards.

Application of PPU is carried out on a specially prepared floor surface, it is necessary to remove dust, debris from it and make sure that it is completely dry and free of grease. The foam does not adhere to polyethylene and greasy compounds. The procedure can be carried out at temperatures above 10 degrees, otherwise the material will not stick to the ceiling as it should.

For work, you will need a high-pressure apparatus - it is very expensive to buy it, you can rent it in specialized companies. It is connected to two containers with the first and second components. When the start button is pressed, the compositions are combined in a vortex chamber, then they are sprayed in the form of a fine and light mass. The pressure in the machine must be at least 140 atmospheres. When choosing a technique, pay attention to the current source - the required one must match your home network.

Apply PPU evenly, after putting on protective equipment - goggles, a respirator, gloves. The procedure for a professional is about an hour, if you are confident in your abilities, you can try it yourself, but it will take more time due to insufficient experience. Apply polyurethane foam not only to the space between the lags, but also to the lags themselves - this will protect them from rising steam from the ground.

After applying a layer of about 10 centimeters, turn off the machine and leave the room to dry. Complete hardening of the material and its perfect adhesion is achieved in two days. There is no need to specially process the bottom layer, because. it is not exposed to moisture and adheres well to upper part gender.

Currently, eco-friendly low-rise construction of houses from wood materials is becoming increasingly popular. Traditional log cabins made of rounded logs, cottages made of timber and even houses built from lightweight materials, their owners try to sheathe them with a board or clapboard. The same considerations, in order to create a microclimate closer to nature in a dwelling, are also guided by the choice of material for floors, giving preference to wood as a lighter, but sufficiently durable material.

Due to its natural origin, wood has a fairly low thermal conductivity, but in the Russian climate it still needs additional thermal insulation.

Options

There is a fairly large selection of fillers for insulation of interfloor ceilings, floors and ceilings. It can be difficult for an inexperienced builder to understand the properties of one or another insulation, objectively assess their advantages and disadvantages, and make the right choice.

The thing is that different heat-insulating materials are more applicable for some operating conditions and less suitable for others. Insulation of such specific premises as attic, underground, veranda requires a special approach, so it is worth studying all the properties of materials in order to produce the insulation device as efficiently as possible.

The following factors influence the choice of heat-insulating material:

Humidity. Constant indoor dampness (basements with open ground or insufficient foundation waterproofing, bathrooms, winter gardens or home greenhouses) or the likelihood of increasing humidity in it (balconies, rooms for drying clothes, bathrooms or steam rooms);
The purpose of the premises. Some types of materials contain certain resins or adhesives in their composition, which, for safety reasons, are not suitable for bedrooms or children's rooms.
Possibility of damage by rodents or insects, resistance to fungal attack. Some of the materials appeal to rodents, while others are repulsive to them.
Lower and upper temperature limits. Some heat insulators are unstable to severe frosts, while others lose their properties or are completely deformed and become unusable with significant heating.

It should be borne in mind that the heat-insulating material should “work in both directions” - not only protect the home from low temperatures in winter, but also maintain a comfortable environment for humans and pets in the summer heat.

Last but not least, the general condition of the house also affects the choice of insulation and the method of performing thermal insulation:

the age of the building - in an old house one method is required, in a newly built one - another;
foundation construction method - on bored or screw piles, on reinforced concrete blocks or on light foundations of small depth;
the number of storeys of the building and the site of work - whether the floor is insulated for the 1st or 2nd floor.

Bottom

In most cases, wooden houses are built with a high base, that is, the height of the subfloor allows insulation from below. The only exception may be the southern regions, where private houses are being built on stable soils using the technology of erecting low-rise buildings on shallow piles. But even there, in most cases, they try to comply with the traditional construction of houses with a high base.

Otherwise, if the subfloor is not high enough, to insulate the floor of the first floor, it will be necessary to remove the floor board to the log or other supporting structure.

Thus, it is possible to insulate from below with a sufficiently high subfloor for the first floor or insulation of the floor of the second floor, which, accordingly, is the ceiling for the first floor.

Performance thermal insulation works in the underground is not much more complicated than the same work when insulating the floor of the second floor, but it has a number of features. Before starting work, you need to prepare the place and provide yourself with both the minimum comfort and the necessary level of security.

Most likely, there are no windows in the basement, so first of all you need to take care of sufficient lighting. If there are no stationary lamps, waterproof portable light sources on a flexible cord of sufficient length should be used.

For the same reason, in the underground space there is extremely poor natural ventilation, and sometimes it is completely absent. Unfortunately, many builders do not take this factor into account, which has an extremely negative impact on labor productivity. Exhaled carbon dioxide is heavier than other gases that make up atmospheric air, and therefore tends to the bottom.

And since the underground is the lowest point, carbon dioxide accumulates here, disrupts the full breathing of the worker, causes increased fatigue, drowsiness and, in especially severe cases, fainting. That's why it is important to ensure sufficient supply ventilation from inside the house or from the street.

Of course, for the duration of the work in the basement, it is necessary to remove all things stored there, products and other objects that interfere with the free movement of the repairman.

If in the subfield open ground, if possible, it should be leveled and compacted. In the best case, if the budget allows, pour concrete at least 10 cm high with reinforcement, thereby significantly reducing the humidity in the underground space. This will significantly extend the service life of both the load-bearing elements of the basement and the wooden floor structures.

In the absence of natural passive ventilation of the subfloor, it will not be superfluous to make small (about 10 * 10 cm) ventilation vents in the outer walls. This will improve the microclimate in the cellar, additionally prevent an increase in humidity and, as a result, avoid mold damage to wooden structures.

Having finished preparatory work, first of all, you need to check the condition of the supporting elements - beams, logs, support columns.

Having identified areas of mold damage, carefully clean the surface with a spatula, sandpaper (popularly called “skin”), and then soak twice with antiseptic solutions. Then all accessible wooden elements should be abundantly impregnated with fire and bio-protective compositions and dried thoroughly.

If the foundation and plinth are built using concrete or brick (block), these areas must be treated with bituminous mastic to protect against moisture. If the works are carried out on days of high atmospheric humidity, it may be necessary to additionally dry them using heating equipment.

In some cases, a conventional household fan heater will suffice, but for large underground spaces, a building heat gun may be required. In no case do not use gas or petrol/diesel heat gun , it is permissible to use only electric, and that should not be left unattended for safety reasons.

For insulation from below, it is rather inconvenient to perform work with rolled heat-insulating materials, such as mineral wool or isolon. And even more so, bulk materials are not suitable for these purposes - sawdust, expanded clay and the like. Therefore, preference should be given to insulation in sheets - foam, foam, and so on.

First of all, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier material, in most cases it is a polyethylene film. For underfloor conditions, it is preferable to choose a film with a thickness of 350 microns or more, if possible even denser.

It must be fixed, observing a full fit with a construction stapler along the logs (beams), taking into account all irregularities, bends and height differences, in places of sagging, additionally fasten along the floor boards. Fragments of the film must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm on one another, fasten the edges with a wide adhesive tape. Overlap on walls and vertical structures - at least 25 cm.

After that, you need to proceed with the installation of heat-insulating material in the intervals between the lags. If possible, fragments of the heat insulator should be cut so that there are no extra gaps between them and the lags, and the insulation itself does not fall out. If necessary, if the fragment is not held by the edges of the logs, it can be temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws, and the gap between its edges and the logs can be filled mounting foam.

It should be remembered that the metal self-tapping screw has a very high thermal conductivity, therefore, after the building foam has hardened, they must all be removed.

Also, after the heat-insulating material has been laid over the entire surface of the ceiling, all inevitably occurring gaps must be filled with mounting foam, and after it has hardened, cut off the protruding excess.

After that, to ensure a more reliable retention of the heat-insulating material, it is necessary to fix it from below with a light filing. The most economical option is fiberboard sheets, but low grade plywood, edged boards and a number of other materials are also suitable. Do not use GKL ( drywall sheet) due to its high hygroscopicity and brittleness.

After completing the filing, you should fix another layer of vapor and waterproofing. You can also use plastic wrap. In this case, it is permissible to use isolon, foilizol and other composite materials.

Above

In this case, there are two options for insulation, radically different from one another:

without dismantling floor covering. Logs are laid on the old floor, insulation is placed between them and a new floor covering is placed on top.
With dismantling. In this case, the boards are marked, dismantled and taken out of the room where they are being repaired. The insulation is mounted between the existing joists, then the floor boards are installed back.

In the first case, the level of the floor rises - depending on the technology used, by a height of 10 to 25, and in some cases even 30 cm. This method is more cost-effective and reduces the usable volume of the room. But if the budget allows and the ceilings are high enough, this option can significantly reduce the time to complete the work.

In the second case, the floor height remains at the same level, but the builder will need more work and time.

Whichever option is chosen, before starting all work, all furniture must be removed from the room, the floor must be freed from carpet or other covering, and the baseboard must be removed.

First you need to check the condition of the floor boards. Elements damaged by rotting or affected by mold must be replaced, unstable elements must be fixed. On the old boards, you need to apply soil, antiseptic impregnations and dry, if necessary, use additional heat sources for this.

As with the inspection of the underground space, areas affected by the fungus, but retaining their strength, must be cleaned to healthy wood and soaked abundantly with antiseptics.

Experienced builders recommend using for these purposes a composition that is practical and completely safe for humans and pets, but so unloved by rodents and woodworm insects - a cool solution of ordinary table salt. For its preparation in hot water salt is added until it stops stirring.

The parts of the board previously cleaned from mold damage from the outside are thickly spilled with hot saline. The gaps found between the boards or cracks in them must be filled with construction foam, leveled on top with an oil or acrylic-based putty. After drying, lay a waterproofing material - a plastic film or penofol, glue the joints with a wide adhesive tape.

After that, the lags are laid. You should choose a timber from coniferous wood, the minimum section of which is 50 * 50mm. However, if the floor of the lower floor is insulated and at the same time enhanced thermal insulation is required, then, accordingly, a beam of a larger section is required.

Dried timber is preferred without visible deformations (without bends along any of the axes), chips and other damage. It is important to consider that between the insulation and the top board there should be a gap of 1 - 2 cm for natural air microcirculation and humidity compensation, so the height of the material for the log must be calculated with a margin.

As a frame, in addition to timber, it is permissible to use edged board thickness from 50 mm of the corresponding width, installed on the edge (the wider side will be located vertically) - in this case, a more rigid fastening of the boards to the floor is required. You may need metal corners with a shelf length of at least half the width of the board: for example, if a board with a section of 50 * 120 mm is selected for installation on an edge, then the length of the metal corner shelf must be at least 60 mm. The installation step of the corners is no more than 1 meter.

It is strongly not recommended to use unedged materials, since larvae or even adults of wood-boring insects can be preserved in wane (bark residues) on wood, and, unfortunately, it is not always possible to eliminate them with the help of bioprotective impregnations.

Laying should begin from the highest site selected using the building level. The lag laying scheme is quite simple. The step must be kept constant - from 50 to 60 cm. Horizontalness should be observed as far as possible, if necessary, placing rigid inserts resistant to moisture and fungus from below. Logs are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws in increments of 100-120 cm.

Heat-insulating material is placed in the space between the lags. When insulating from above, the choice is no longer limited to sheet insulation. In this case, it is possible to lay not boards on the floor, but plywood of sufficient thickness, then the floor will last even a little longer.

Do-it-yourself algorithm

Insulation from above with the dismantling of the floor boards implies that the floor boards have been checked, their condition is satisfactory and they do not need to be replaced.

Before starting the dismantling, the boards must be marked, indicating their order and orientation, since in the case of tongue-and-groove boards or tongue-and-groove fastening, an orientation error will violate their mutual fastening. The indication of the upper side will be the surface on which the marking is applied.

Dismantling must be done with the utmost care, without damaging the material. If the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws, they all need to be unscrewed and only then lifted one at a time, starting from the edge of the room.

Some difficulty in finding attachment points with self-tapping screws can create old paint if the floor has been painted. A simple way will help with this - using a magnet, possibly from an old speaker (column). Although today a more powerful neodymium magnet is relatively inexpensive. With its help, there is a self-tapping screw head, the paint is peeled off with a spatula and the self-tapping screw is unscrewed.

Dismantling is performed a little differently if the boards are nailed. In no case should you try to remove the nails with pliers or a nail puller, this will only damage the board. Nail heads are also easily located with a magnet, these places are marked with a marker.

The builders of the “old school” use an ax to dismantle the boards: they carefully wedge it between the lag and the board, without damaging either one or the other, and lift the edge of the board with a slight wiggle.

You can use a pry bar or a flat-tipped nail puller. There is no need to try to lift the entire board at once, wedging with an ax in only one place, the wood can split from this.

It is necessary to raise the board at each attachment point to a small height, then go along the board again, repeating this operation. When the edge is already noticeably raised, place an additional support under the tool and raise the entire board. Wherein it is important to ensure that the tongue or tongue of the board is not damaged.

Old nails must be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the point, and when the head of the nail rises above the board, remove it with tongs or pliers. Having removed the boards, the builder opens the logs and, if their condition is satisfactory, lays a plastic film using a construction stapler, fastens the joints with adhesive tape and mounts heat-insulating material.

In both cases, with open logs, they should be impregnated with fire and bioprotective substances and dried thoroughly before laying the insulation.

If bulk material is used - whether it be sawdust, wood concrete granules, expanded clay or any other, it is necessary to carefully level the layer of insulating material, avoiding too loose laying or, conversely, excessive compaction, fill in all irregularities and cracks. In case of application roll materials you need to try to cut in accordance with the geometry of the space between the lags, avoid gaps and crushing, do not leave voids.

It should be remembered that many rolled heat-insulating materials lose their properties when wet and turn from a heat insulator into heat conductors. When working with sheet material, you should try to cut as accurately as possible, avoid bending sheets, fill gaps and voids with mounting foam.

At the end of the laying of the heat insulator, regardless of how hygroscopic the material is, it is necessary to lay a polyethylene or other moisture-proof film again, and after that the boards should be mounted.

Thermal insulation materials

The modern market offers enough wide choose materials for thermal insulation, and inexperienced home master it is difficult to choose the most suitable insulation for wood floors.

In addition to the price, each type of material has its own advantages, and some have obvious disadvantages:

Penoplex. Sheet insulation, produced in a fairly wide range of thicknesses. Sufficiently durable and at the same time easily processed material with high heat-insulating characteristics, resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For ease of installation, it is available in a tongue-and-groove version. Afraid of high temperatures and organic solvents. Unattractive to rodents and insects.
Styrofoam. Unlike the older brother - penoplex, it is softer, less resistant to moisture, and can crumble when cutting. At the same time, it has a much lower density and, as a result, a somewhat greater heat-insulating ability. Unlike penoplex and EPPS, it does not contain styrenes in its composition, that is, it is somewhat safer when used in living rooms.

EPPS- extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, this is the same penoplex, but with slight differences in production technology. In terms of characteristics, it is neither inferior nor superior to it.
Sawdust. This bulk material is very cheap, in some cases even free, as it is actually a waste product. One of the most environmentally friendly and safe materials for humans and pets. It should be remembered that sawdust in pure form it is impossible to lay, otherwise the invasion of rodents and insects cannot be avoided. Sawdust must be mixed with cement or clay, while adding fire retardant, antiseptic and antifungal solutions. Sawdust is intolerant of dampness and, without proper processing and moisture insulation, is easily susceptible to rotting and mold damage. Over time, they become caked, losing their insulating qualities.
Expanded clay. Lightweight porous bulk material made of baked clay, which is why it is absolutely harmless. Resistant to high temperatures. Expanded clay does not have closed pores, which is why it is hygroscopic and needs high-quality waterproofing.

Penofol. It is a foamed polyethylene with aluminum foil applied on one side (less often on both sides). It has high moisture resistance, in terms of heat-insulating characteristics it is noticeably inferior to polystyrene foam. Very sensitive to even slight heat. It is not damaged by a fungus, it is not subject to rotting. When using, one feature should be taken into account - the foil side should be facing a warm room.
Izospan. High-quality material for vapor and waterproofing. Used as a moisture barrier, it allows wooden structures"breathe", that is, does not interfere with air exchange with the environment. combustible Resistant to fungal attack.
Izolon. Foamed polyethylene without foil. Due to the peculiarities of production, it is not produced with a thickness of more than 7 mm, therefore, it does not have a heat insulator practical application. At the same time, it is a high-quality waterproofing material with some soundproofing properties. Sensitive to high temperatures, resistant to fungus, not damaged by rodents or insects.

Ecowool. Cellulose-based extrusion material. It is rarely used in private housing construction, as it requires specialized equipment and trained personnel for application. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a contractor to violate the formulation of the original composition in order to reduce the cost, as a result of which this material of high thermal insulation characteristics eventually begins to evaporate toxic substances in environment.
polyurethane foam, like cellulose ecowool, requires specialized equipment for application. The composition does not use harmful substances. During hardening, it forms closed pores, which excludes any evaporation of substances into the environment. On the part of the contractor is not subject to violation of the recipe. Frost- and heat-resistant, not subject to rotting, mold, fungal attack. It has high noise and heat insulating characteristics.
Mineral wool. One of the most undemanding and easy-to-use heat-insulating materials. It is afraid of moisture, but after drying it restores its properties. Thanks to the filling with mineral chips, it eliminates damage by rodents or insects, and the absence of organic fillers prevents rotting or mold damage. Easily wrinkled material, therefore requires careful handling

When choosing an insulating material, it is imperative to read the instructions for use attached to it. This document details the characteristics: thermal conductivity, allowable temperature range, humidity, and so on.

Typical mistakes

In some cases, builders, relying on the moisture resistance of the material declared by the manufacturer, neglect additional waterproofing. Condensation can form during sudden temperature changes in a high humidity environment, as well as when water flows directly from the room through cracks in the floor. When freezing, water causes cracking or rupture of pores in the material, which drastically reduces the heat-insulating qualities.

When insulating the floor of the first floor with foam, the material is sometimes left open. The fact is that mice often gnaw on foam plastic, taking away its crumbs and “insulating” their holes with it. This approach helps to preserve the vapor barrier layer and, if necessary, update the heat insulator sheets without any problems.

It happens that the builder will save on tape and leave the overlap of the plastic film loose. The moisture contained in the air penetrates through the edges of the film into the mineral wool and it becomes damp. That's why It is important to monitor compliance with the technology of work by employees.

Examples of successful designs

Consider the following:

The classic "pie" when insulated from above with the use of a screed under the finished floor.

Installation of the log "in a row", backfilling with expanded clay on top of the film, covered with plywood.

High-quality filling of gaps between lags and sheets with construction foam.
Laying slabs in the space between the beams on top of the isospan layer.

The use of wide boards mounted on the edge.
Double-sided mineral wool waterproofing.

Floor insulation in a wooden house: 15 better ways

The coldest surface of the house, of course, is the floor. This usually applies to the first least protected floor of the building, as well as separate wooden houses. Why is the floor in a lower-rise apartment always cold? This is due to the fact that the air rushes down. Drafts are blowing from under the floor below. To minimize heat loss, the floor in the house has to be insulated.

Such a procedure is especially necessary in houses with a classic eco-friendly wooden deck. Even if you lay wood elements (boards) tightly to each other, they will dry out over time. From the crevices will certainly begin to see through. This will naturally lead to heat loss.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house: the choice of material

The quality of thermal insulation of the flooring directly depends on the right choice of material. Today, the Russian construction market has a rich selection of heat insulators.

Penoplex, stone and mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and often used fiberglass are popular types of thermal insulation. Each of them has its pros and cons. Which one is better?

Fiberglass, stone and mineral wool - these materials have good thermal protection properties and excellent sound absorption. If you want to lay insulation in one layer, then use roll or mats. The latter are considered more elastic and durable material. the site advises laying insulation elements between the lags or under the rough flooring. Both options are acceptable.
Penoplex and expanded polystyrene can also be used. At the same time, they will please with a democratic price, high thermal insulation of the structure and durability. From these materials, thermal insulation is carried out by spraying. This is an efficient, fairly fast and economical method. This method is most often used in new homes.

Expanded polystyrene advantage:

minimal water absorption, and, accordingly, resistance to water;
excellent thermal insulation qualities;
form stability;
high strength material;
volume stability;
long service life;
biological resistance;
immunity to various microorganisms;
the material is environmentally friendly.

Benefits of mineral wool:

the material is low in density;
the level of thermal conductivity is negligible;
long service life;
democratic price;
incombustibility;
environmentally friendly material;
high level of water repellency;
high chemical resistance.

All of the above materials meet environmental requirements:

The better the polystyrene foam, the more environmentally friendly it is. It must be dried well so that no volatile compounds remain in the material. Otherwise, at elevated temperatures, they can poison a person. Styrene can cause toxic hepatitis, rare leukemia, etc.
You can fit into the tight framework of ecology using fiberglass or mineral wool, provided that these materials use harmless resins. Phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are undesirable, can be identified by the brown or yellow tint of the material.

Durability of thermal insulation

Various qualities have to be taken into account when choosing a particular material. For example, with a certain load on the heat-protective layer, it will no longer be able to restore its original volume - some of the fibers will simply break. That is why such raw materials do not adhere tightly to the logs and floor beams. As a result, cold bridges are inevitably created on structures. Condensation can also appear where the thermal insulation does not fit snugly.

In order not to miscalculate with a choice and buy a heater good quality, press on a small piece of it (for example, step on it). If after such a test it takes its former shape, then it suits you. If it remains crumpled and flat, then it is best to refuse such a product.

Is it possible to improve thermal insulation qualities? When warming, you can not do with mats alone. Often used insulated finishes: heat-insulating linoleums, two-layer carpets .. Other materials can also not be neglected. The first floor can be made warmer by insulating the foundation. Basements should be carefully checked and all cracks sealed.

We warm the wooden floor along the logs

Most often, floor insulation in a wooden house is realized through the use of logs. It is quite simple to implement and yet very effective. In any case, you can eliminate significant heat losses. This method is especially relevant for the basement and first floor - where the floors are closest to the ground.

The technology goes like this:

Install on the base of the T-shaped log. Observe the step in meters.
Then fix the boards or shields on which to lay the insulation in the future. They must be fixed on a special type of cranial bars or hemmed from below.
Then lay the insulation on the flooring between the joists.
Next, you have to take care of the vapor and waterproofing. True, the need for this procedure arises only in individual cases. It all depends on the type of insulation. So, this procedure will be relevant if you use ecowool or mineral wool. Lay vapor barrier sheets overlapping fifteen centimeters. On the wall, its edges should “climb” about ten centimeters. For waterproofing, you can use both a simple plastic film and a special kind of material.
The final stage is the installation and finishing of the flooring.

Important! You can also make thermal insulation of the floor along the logs, which are laid on even brick columns. Insulation plates must be laid between these posts (polystyrene, fiberglass, mineral wool). The insulation layer must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier on top.

The constant advantage of thermal insulation along the lags is the ease of work. At the same time, the method is very effective. The insulation does not experience mechanical load, therefore, any of the heat-insulating materials can be used.

What are the materials for floor insulation

Of course, choosing a heater is not easy. You can make the floor warmer different ways using different materials:

isolon;
polyurethane foam;
polystyrene;
penofol;
mineral, glass, stone, slag wool;
ecowool.

Perfect for this purpose sawdust, polyfoam, expanded clay. The choice depends on the characteristics of the material, personal preferences and financial capabilities.

We warm the draft floor

The whole procedure is carried out according to the logs.

Fasten to the sides of the fixed log bars.
Fix the boards on them with screws or nails. The latter in length should correspond to the distance between the lags.
When an integral surface is formed, lay a vapor barrier on top: plastic film, glassine or some other material.
Next, lay the insulation between the lags.
Check that there are no gaps.
Next - another layer of vapor barrier. The draft floor is ready.

We warm the floor with sawdust

Sawdust is one of the commonplace types of insulation. Its main advantage is low cost and ease of filling. The insulation can penetrate even the most hard-to-reach places. It is also important to mention that this material is environmentally friendly. In the role of a heater, sawdust can be used not only in its pure form, but also mixed with building materials.

Pellets and sawdust pellets

This is a granular insulation made from a mixture of sawdust, glue based on carboxymethyl cellulose and a flame retardant antiseptic. Thanks to such components, the insulation is not only an excellent heat insulator, but also antiseptic, flame retardant.

sawdust concrete

It can be obtained by mixing sawdust (mainly with coniferous) with cement, sand and water. It is similar to slag concrete in terms of thermal conductivity. This is an environmentally friendly material that requires good waterproofing (because it contains sawdust).

Arbolit

Such a material can be obtained by mixing cement with the required chemical components and organic aggregates ( wood chips). Usually plates are made from this material. They have good heat and sound insulation properties. This insulation is non-flammable, easy to process, durable.

Main disadvantage- "not indifferent" to moisture.

Of all the above materials, sawdust most often acts as a heater (without adding impurities).

We warm the floor with mineral wool

This is a very common, popular type of insulation. It can be slag, stone, glass. Absolute incombustibility is one of the main advantages. The advantages also include: chemical and biological resistance, thermal and noise protection properties.

It is necessary to mention the disadvantages: low vapor permeability and mechanical strength.

The material is hygroscopic, resulting in a decrease in thermal insulation properties. Pay close attention to the vapor barrier layer when installing mineral wool. Such material also cannot be called absolutely safe for human health.

It is sold in slabs and mats. The last form is made from hydrophobized mineral wool. The blue stripe marks the hard side of the slab. Please note that the marking must face up when laying. Among manufacturers Rockwool and Izovol are the most popular.

Based on mineral fibres. "Izovol" has low thermal conductivity. It has much more hydrophobic efficiency. In addition, it is chemically and biologically resistant, non-flammable.

Basalt mineral insulation is a Rockwool brand material:

resistant to mechanical stress;
during operation does not shrink and practically does not deform;
chemically and biologically resistant, non-combustible;
low thermal conductivity of the flooring;
well absorbs sounds due to the porous structure.
excellent sound deadening properties.

Insulation of floors with mineral slabs (video)

We warm the floor with penofol

The new kind thermal insulation material. It hasn't gained much popularity yet.

This is a multilayer material that comes in rolls and consists of a reflective layer (aluminum foil) and insulation (almost any insulation). For example, foamed polyethylene.

The classic version of this insulation is just polyethylene foam, which is fastened with foil. However, all requirements modern construction this option cannot be satisfied. That is why various types of penofol were invented.

More high density has a classic penofol. It can withstand higher mechanical loads. Insulation can also be used as a hydro and vapor barrier. It will show itself perfectly in tandem with heaters of a different composition.

Penofol comes with two- and one-sided foiling.

Penofol-2000 became a progressive version of penofol. Foamed gas-filled polyethylene is used here as a basis. It costs less than its classic representative.

There is penofol and type "C" - self-adhesive. It is multi-layered: polyethylene foam, contact adhesive (moisture resistant) with release film, aluminum foil. Such a heater can be fixed on any (with a few exceptions) surface thanks to glue. Accordingly, it is very easy and fast to mount it.

The material is laid on the surface of the base. Sheets can be laid either end-to-end or overlapped. The joints must be glued with metallic tape. If you use penofol, then you do not need to perform hydro and vapor barrier. Everything will be provided by aluminum foil. We recommend that you read the material about.

We insulate the floor with foam

Also one of the leading types of insulation. Possesses:

low vapor permeability;
significant fire resistance;
high strength;
low thermal conductivity;
chemical and biological resistance;
does not mold;
unsuitable for rodents;
high operating layer.

The disadvantages include the fact that it absorbs moisture, losing some of its properties. When using such a heater, attention should be paid to hydro and vapor barrier.

For insulation, both foamed and extruded foam are suitable. The latter has a solid structure - a mass of closed cells filled with gas molecules.

Of course, insulation has both pros and cons. The advantages include hygroscopicity, low thermal conductivity, durability, fire safety. By cons - a harmful effect on the human body.

We warm the floor with ecowool

This heater is made from natural materials. It consists of 78-81% waste paper, the rest is natural additives - a mixture of cellulose fibers. The binder is the organic antiseptic lignin, as well as boric acid.

The main advantage of ecowool is safety for humans. The advantages also include:

fire safety (smoldering, not burning);
low thermal conductivity;
after drying, it restores the properties of thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost.

Ecowool can be applied to the surface in different ways:

manually. Slabs of cotton wool will need to be laid between the bars on shields or boards hemmed from below. The main thing is to lay the insulation tightly and process the joints with mounting foam;
with the help of special devices - mobile blowing machines. Under the influence of pressure, the insulation is supplied through the hose. There are two ways here: dry (ecowool is blown into the floor cavity) and wet (ecowool is applied to the walls).

Laying ecowool (video)

We insulate the floor with isolon

New generation heater. It is made from expanded polyethylene foam. Izolon was developed taking into account the new requirements for thermal insulation of the floor. Has a number of advantages:

small thickness - 2.1-10.0 cm. It is noteworthy that the level of thermal conductivity does not increase;
goes well with any material. Ideal for any gender;
does not absorb moisture;
does not rot, protects from the negative effects of moisture and steam;
high service life;
environmentally friendly material;
suitable for any room;
small thickness. This saves a lot of space.

We insulate the floor with polyurethane foam

This insulation (hard and soft) can be obtained from isocyanate and polyol components.

Cellular in structure polyurethane foam (bubbles are filled with gas and air), provides low thermal conductivity, has a low weight. For a number of properties, it is considered one of the the best materials for thermal insulation.

It is necessary to apply insulation to the surface by spraying. You will have to use special equipment. Polyurethane foam adheres perfectly to any material. A layer of vapor barrier is not needed.

PPU floor insulation (video)

double floors

An efficient heating solution. The subfloor is used as the first layer (unhewn boards that are attached to the beams). There shouldn't be any gaps.

Try to fit all the boards tightly together. Finishing flooring is mounted from above. Even a topcoat made of decorative materials will do.

Often, instead of a draft base, a variety of flooring is used: embossed or smooth coverings with a high level of thermal insulation.

Said material does not accumulate debris. Dust and motes can be removed from it with a vacuum cleaner or swept away. The coating must be glued to the floor with an adhesive. You need to glue in separate strips. Don't forget to glue the seams too.

We warm the floor of fiberboard

For floor insulation, standard DV plates are sometimes used. Such slabs can be placed under the roughing boards or under the finishing flooring (parquet, linoleum, carpet, etc.).

The main thing is to act carefully and do the installation in stages. Observe the alignment of the joints, avoid the formation of cracks.

The type of plates can be different:

PT-100;
M-20.

These options will not allow cold to enter the house. Fiberboard for insulation can be used in combination with other heat insulators. For example, with mineral wool.

Underfloor heating system

The mentioned system is especially relevant for floors based on cold cement screed, which need good heating.

The system will evenly heat the floor surface. As a result - comfortable thermal conditions throughout the room. The level of humidity in the house will drop significantly. For the first floor of an eco-friendly wooden house, water is especially relevant. You can get acquainted with the material about.

lay concrete slabs on the floor base or;
lay any kind of insulation. Its thickness should not be less than two centimeters and more than ten;
lay a reinforcing mesh;
attach the piping system to the grid with plastic clamps;
fill the floor with a cement-sand mixture;
use a backing if necessary;
install the finish coat.

You can find out about the device and installation technology.

We create an electric floor heating system

Installing it is much easier. Used as heating cable structures, safe film infrared elements.

The cable can, if necessary, be stretched on a metal mesh, which is previously needed. Film elements can be attached directly to the screed, insulated with some kind of heat insulator.

We invite you to find out by reading the relevant article on our website.

A variety of heaters can confuse buyers. We list some of the most common types of heat insulators:

Thermolife. This material is usually used for small loads on the heat-insulating layer. Most often, they insulate walls, roofs, interfloor space. Equally well applicable on planes of different inclination.
Ursa. A popular heater among specialists. Especially common in the decoration of horizontal surfaces. Advantages: good heat and sound insulation properties.
Insulate. Produced in China. Is issued in rolls. High quality at a low price. It will find application in various fields.

You can insulate the floor in many ways and independently. The choice is great. Dare!