How to fix plastic panels. How to fix plastic panels to the wall - complete instructions. Installation is carried out in several stages

Savings often become the main factor when choosing finishing materials for repairs. This is what explains such popularity. pvc panels. Manufacturers managed to combine seemingly incompatible things. Such as external attractiveness and democratic price. And add to this the ease of installation and we get almost perfect finishing material.

In this article, we will talk about how to fix pvc panels to the wall, and we will talk about three ways how to do it yourself.

The choice of how to attach pvc panels to the wall depends on many factors. Here is the humidity of the wall and the room and communications, and even the need to save space, which is especially important when it comes to finishing the toilet or bathroom, which are traditionally small.

It is not necessary to start from considerations of economy. The cheapest way is not always the best.

Below we will talk in detail about which mounting of pvc panels on the wall is best suited for a particular situation, but for now let's find out what difficulties we may encounter during the repair process:

Humidity of walls and bridges of cold. Plastic is not at all afraid of water and can be in constant contact with it, but it does not have vapor permeability at all, which means that over time, the moisture accumulating under the finish will begin to grow into a fungus or mold.
Availability of communications. You can still hide the wiring in the wall or, on the contrary, move it away, but water pipes(see How to ditch walls under pipes in several ways) or heating systems are much more difficult to hide, and sometimes even impossible.

Space saving. Below we will talk about fixing pvc panels to the wall through a bar. And this method can significantly reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Before you get started, consider whether you are ready to sacrifice a few cherished centimeters or not.
Curvature of the walls. Often there are so curved walls that it is very difficult to finish them. Here you have to either level the surface, or sacrifice centimeters and choose a mount through a beam.

Now that the main difficulties have been identified, inspect your room in which you are going to make repairs, and carefully read the article to the end in order to know exactly which pvc panel attachment to the wall is best for you.

Method 1: Liquid nails

The simplest and cheapest way to mount pvc panels to the wall, but only on the condition that you have perfectly even walls. Liquid nails are the unofficial name for a special silicone adhesive that dries very quickly and securely holds not only plastic, but also glass and wood.

Liquid nails are applied to the panels in even stripes, after which it is applied to the wall. The curing time of the glue is only a few minutes, so the entire repair will not take much time.

Despite the fact that the adhesive mounting method is the most economical and fastest, it is not always suitable, and experts advise using it with caution. The thing is that the panels are in direct contact with the wall, and as we said above, condensate will constantly accumulate on them, which simply has nowhere to evaporate from under the plastic.

Communication can also be a significant barrier. In the case of mounting on a beam, they may remain under the finish. Here, they will either have to be removed inside the wall, or pushed aside a little and allowed over the surface of the panels, which does not always look nice.

Important! fastening pvc pipes to the wall can also be done using liquid nails, but you need to choose a special, heat-resistant glue that does not liquefy when the temperature changes.

The evenness of the walls can also become an obstacle for this method of fastening. The difference should be no more than two centimeters, or the surface of the walls will have to be leveled with plaster, and these are additional financial costs.

Method 2: Nails, stapler, screws

Each pvc panel has a small tongue under the groove. It is in it that the fastening is made. You can use any convenient fastener, whether it be small shoe nails or a construction stapler. By the way, working with a stapler is much faster and more convenient.

A significant difficulty is the need to build a frame to which the panels are attached. Of course, if you are the owner wooden house and your walls are well protected from condensation, you can do without it.

The frame is usually made from wooden blocks. It is easier to attach to them in any convenient way, but as an alternative, you can use a drywall profile, but here you will have to work only with self-tapping screws, since neither nails nor staples will simply hold on to the metal.

So, the first thing we need is to fix the bars to the wall. This can be done using dowels with plastic sleeves. Just lay the beam horizontally against the wall and drill a hole through it into the wall. Hammer the dowel and repeat the operation in increments of about 30-50 centimeters.

Important! Before you begin to fasten the bar, be sure to treat it with protective impregnations that will protect the tree from moisture, rotting and bugs. The better the wood is impregnated, the longer it will last.

The distance between the bars should also be no more than 50 centimeters, so that a deflection does not form on the panels, and they firmly support the weight if someone leans on the wall.

When the crate is ready, you can proceed to fixing the panels. They usually start from the right corner of the room. The first panel is fastened with a comb to the corner, and fasteners are hammered into the groove. The second side is fixed in the same way. Now we insert the next panel, and fasten it, but only in the groove, since it is already fixed on the side of the ridge.

Method 3: Kleimers

Kleimers are special brackets that are used to fasten any tongue-and-groove finishing materials. As you can see in the photo, the kleimer has a special fixing tongue, and a hole for a screw or nail. Working with them is very fast and convenient. Moreover, this is the only available way of fixing in a new house.

Walls built less than a year ago will shrink. It is imperceptible to the eye, and the finish can be reflected very strongly. Kleimers do not fix the panel, as they say, tightly, and allow for a slight curvature. As a result, the walls may sag while the panels remain in place.

If you do not quite understand how to attach pvc panels to the wall, then we suggest you watch the video in this article, which clearly shows the whole process. So, we figured out the three methods, but in order to make a high-quality fastening to the wall of a pvc panel, this knowledge is not enough. There are many nuances and subtleties of the process, which we will tell you about further.

So:

If you decide to treat the bar for the crate with impregnation, pre-cut it into right size. This way you can cover all parts, and even those that appear after cutting.
Before attaching PVC panels to the wall with liquid nails, make sure that the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust. And most importantly, remove all grease or oil stains.
When choosing pvc panels in the store, be sure to pay attention to their smell. If the panels smell like chemicals, look for another manufacturer. It will be impossible to get rid of such amber.

If you use self-tapping screws for fastening, take only those that have a clamping cap. They do not tear the plastic and securely fix it to the base.
Plastic has slight thermal expansion, so when installing panels, leave small gaps near the floor and ceiling. To compensate for the deformation, 3 millimeters is enough, which will completely overlap with a decorative corner.

Using these simple rules, you can easily make repairs in your home that will delight you for many years.

And finally, I would like to add: in this article we have only superficially described the mounting methods, but if you need detailed instructions how to attach a pvc panel to a wall, then it is already on our website for sure.

During repairs, you don’t always want to get involved with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There are more simple technology- wall decoration plastic panels. You can cope on your own even without much experience in construction work and in a day or two carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony / loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This type of finishing material is made of PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is extruded into a mold. On the prefabricated panels draw a drawing. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a flat, but a textured surface. The drawing applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but such materials cost about two times more.

Another technology is to apply the drawing directly to the plastic, after which it is covered with two layers of varnish. Cheaper technology, but the service life and quality of the pattern is lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those designed for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, and wall ones - from 8 to 10 mm and a greater thickness of walls and partitions. You can determine which view is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material differs in that it has a flat surface and, with a tight joint, the seams are not very noticeable.

There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges, which are more typical for plastic lining. If you finish the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to a wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

In width, plastic wall panels are most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are other non-standard sizes, but these are most common. For the price, you can observe a rather strong spread - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the pattern, etc.

Name/photo	Parameters (width/length/thickness)	Coloring type	Manufacturer	Price for 1 panel
violet pink	250mm2700mm8mm		V-Plast, Russia	120 rub
Kanamala	250mm2700mm9mm	lamination	Vivipan	220 rub
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise	950mm480mm3mm		Russia	128 rub
Scarlet	250mm2700mm8mm		Cronoplast (Russia)	215 rub

Thin PVC wall panels

Above we talked about products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for not using them. Therefore, thin wall plastic panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push through. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950*480mm or so.

The method of installation is different for them - they are glued to the walls. Due to the fact that this finishing material has a very small thickness, it is cut with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But in order to avoid difficulties during the installation process, when buying, you need to track some points:

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. It is necessary to take one bar so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, inspect it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

Correct technology for mounting plastic panels on walls

What is good about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself, it takes a little time. Well, and one more plus - you need the usual tools:

This is all that may be needed when installing PVC panels on the walls. It takes time - one or two days, depending on the experience and repaired areas.

What to make a crate

The installation of PVC panels on the walls according to the technology should be carried out on the crate. The crate is made from:

Of the three listed materials for mounting plastic panels in the bathroom, it is best to use plastic. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Feels good in a humid environment galvanization, but it should be good quality otherwise it will rust. The most unimportant material is wood, but with proper processing, they also cost years. And for this to be true, follow the recommendations for application on the antibacterial composition exactly. In some cases, it is enough to smear with a brush a couple of times, in others - soak for a while and then dry.

How to make a crate

Before starting the installation of the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and everything that can fall off. If there are large indentations on the surface, it is better to close them up, and strongly protruding parts can be cut off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After that, you can already proceed with the installation of the crate.

Lathing slats are located perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you mount the panels vertically, the crate - horizontally and vice versa. Lathing battens are installed at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. The optimal distance is 30 cm (the panel will “walk” less). Planks are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The crate is fastened under the plastic panels, most often on dowels. They put 6 * 40 mm in a concrete wall (so that a piece does not fall out on the back of the concrete partition), 6 * 60 mm in a brick wall. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be even and beautiful, the crate must be set in the same plane. To do this, wooden strips are installed under the wooden planks where necessary (you can - pieces of plywood), only they also need to be treated with a composition from fungi and mold.

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when placing metal profiles in the same plane, but they can also be used when installing wooden bars.

If you decide to make a crate of plastic mounting profiles, then you should take into account one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals / horizontals very carefully. One more thing: along the perimeter of walls, doors and windows, it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as plastic guides: we will attach starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the actual wall plastic panels in the store, you will need to buy some more fittings - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary in order to give the finish a finished and neat look.

At the level of the floor and ceiling, you can use either a starting or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product that has a characteristic cut.

Finishing walls with PVC panels begins with the installation of selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top / bottom. They are attached to the installed slats of the crate. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the crate. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert panels into it.

The problem node is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same below)

Next, cut the first panel along the length or height of the wall. Cut plastic wall panels with a saw blade for metal. When working strongly with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean - push through. In order for the strip to stand in its place without problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

A protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which it is inserted into the corner profile with the cut side, tucking the edges into the upper and lower. Lightly tapping with the palm of your hand, drive the bar all the way, check the verticality with a level by applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they are fixed to each plank of the crate.

Having installed and fixed the first strip, cut off the second one, join it with the first one, fix it, etc. No complications. Problems can only arise with the last panel on the wall. It usually has to be cut in width, and then try to fill it immediately into the groove of the previous bar and into the corner or starting profile. It does not always work out neatly - often the plastic is jammed. This situation can be avoided without fixing the second corner profile. Then, a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, all this is joined together with the previous bar, and only then the corner profile is fixed. This is not entirely correct, since only one half of the corner profile is attached, and the second remains loose. But having suffered, trying to do the right thing, you don’t pay attention to it. Then everything repeats - further wall decoration with plastic panels occurs in the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall is familiar to us, then not everyone likes the corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or clerical knife. If a strip of plastic is cut from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. From the front side, this will not be visible in any way, and torment with the last panel can be avoided. And outwardly, many people like this way more.

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel, fasten it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, try it on. If everything is fine, use this piece as a template, transferring exactly the place of the cut. This is also not according to technology, but such wall decoration with plastic panels looks, it seems to me, better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls

Although the method of decorating walls with plastic panels described above is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly even after plastering on lighthouses or. It is clear that the crate is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they go to the violation of technology - they glue plastic panels on silicone or on mounting foam.

Starting profiles in this case will still have to be installed, but they will need to be fixed to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone (islets with a step of 10-15 cm) is applied to the back side of the panel, the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, fixed in one or two places with the appropriate fasteners. Continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on flat (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the trim without destroying the plastic panels.

Installation of decorative panels allows you to solve many urgent problems. And it's not just about the design of the rooms as such, of course. But just buying the right products is not enough; you still need to carefully study their features and understand how to mount them correctly.

Criterias of choice

Speaking about plastic (PVC) decorative sheet materials, about their installation, one cannot get around the question of what exactly is to be mounted. Even the most scrupulous adherence to technology will not allow you to achieve a good result when using bad products. Most wall panels are purchased for bathrooms, because great importance It is resistant to moisture and microbial attack. Since any wall periodically experiences mechanical stress, the surface must be resistant to such a development of events.

First of all, it depends on the thickness of the outer surface. Reliable wall blocks should have a layer of 0.25 cm, while in the ultra-budget category this figure reaches only 0.15 cm (if it still does). Also important appearance: a good product is always even, not only in its own geometry, but also in color.

Strength is determined not only by the depth of the panel, but also by the number of ribs. The most reliable designs are equipped with 29 such parts, and the average is 20. But the edge is different, they must also be perfectly smooth and not differ in thickness; any placement other than at right angles to the surface is prohibited.

It is also useful to look at the joints of the panels, which should be joined as tightly as possible. Since thick walls and extra ribs cannot be created out of thin air, a good block is quite heavy. It can even be considered one of the practical advantages. Another circumstance should be taken into account: you can finish the walls in the house either well or cheaply. Experienced owners always purchase at least panels of the middle price group, and qualified builders approve of this.

In addition to these obvious considerations, it is worth paying attention to the chalk, or rather, its concentration. Compliant panels contain this mineral only in trace amounts. When deflected by half, they will straighten out, and there will be no dents on the surface. But even flawless wall blocks can be damaged by improper operation.

Preparatory stage

Doing everything right will not work if you do not prepare for installation. Scrupulous work is not required, but accurate measurements of the surfaces to be finished and the calculation of the required volume of material are extremely important. At the preliminary stage, they decide how to mount the panels. Ideally smooth surfaces that only need to be decorated are simply pasted over. And if there are deviations from strict verticals, then you will already need to create frames; they will also have to be used to mask communications.

Initially, the lowest point on the ceiling is found, from which marks are equal in width to one panel. With a level around the entire perimeter, marks are made where anchors or dowels are to be fixed. These fasteners will help attach the frame to the walls.

The profiles should be attached at an angle of 90 degrees to the plates to be placed on them. You can make installation easier if you add a thin cord to the marking and checking the level, the edges of which are covered with colored chalk and pressed against the surface to be treated.

The profile itself can be formed both from wood and from metal and even from plastic. Choice suitable material determined primarily by the conditions in which it will be used. So, wood shows itself well in a “regular” room, but its prospects are much worse in bathrooms or on open balconies. And even where high humidity is unlikely to occur, you will have to use specially selected impregnation. This is the only way to exclude the effect of liquid and the occurrence of mold foci.

Tools and accessories

For work you will need:

stepladder (more convenient than a movable table or stool);
drill (replaced by a puncher);
roulette;
hydraulic level;
saw for metal;
painting knife;
self-tapping screws;
hammer.

In addition to additional tools, it is worth noting the value of prepared accessories. You will definitely need the so-called starting profile, which helps to close the borders of the panels at the ends. In addition to it, you will need an F-shaped profile, which provides the best decorative qualities of the end blocks. Specialized moldings help to connect various panels into a single structure. Its own type of profile exists for external and internal corners.

Since the panels will be adjacent to floors and ceilings, two types of skirting boards are required. Useful soft universal corners. Fastening to the frame parts is provided with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails. All components, with the exception of the frame rails, which are not visible from the outside, must have the same color as the panels. Even experienced designers do not recommend experimenting with color contrasts in this case.

Payment

In order for the wall surfaces to be finished properly, it is necessary to carefully and scrupulously calculate the need for the blocks used, in the components for them.

The standard dimensions of wall panels are:

in thickness 0.6-1 cm;
in width 25-30 cm;
length 250-600 cm.

The key value, according to professionals, belongs precisely to the width. If you choose the largest products, it is possible to reduce the number of seams, and the appearance of the installation will be closer to the integral surface. But during the work itself, narrow structures are more practical, because they are easier to bend. And the relative lightness of each block makes itself felt.

A compromise is reached when using panels with a width of 250 mm.

The calculation itself begins with determining the perimeter of the sheathed base. From this figure, the perimeter of each door, each window or other part that for some reason cannot be sheathed is subtracted. The result obtained is divided by the perimeter of a single block (only remembering that part of the material of the blocks will go into segments). Rounding in calculations is always carried out upwards, and the margin for cuts is provided in the amount of 10%. If there is no experience, you can even leave 12-14%.

slats will have to be placed not only on the edges of the walls, they need to surround the openings of doors and windows;
the standard profile gap is 0.3 m;
the very first profile is always rotated at right angles to the future mounting plane;
the rails themselves are fastened to the walls with self-tapping screws or dowels with a gap of 400 mm;
the guides are attached to the rails at a distance of 500 mm.

Mounting methods

On the frame

When all the PVC panels are selected and purchased, when the components for laying are prepared, you can proceed to it immediately. And in many cases, the most practical solution is to use a framework. It is possible to fix decorative blocks with self-tapping screws even on relatively uneven surfaces. But there is a problem - you will either have to use a screwdriver, or spend a lot of time. To screw in the screws, it is advisable to use a crate made of wood, therefore, first they saw the timber and impregnate it with antiseptic mixtures.

Alternatively, you can mount the panels with your own hands using clamps. Such details provide reliable retention of decorative blocks. When using kleimers, the crate is formed from metal, and the coating can be assembled without additional effort. Each deformed block is quickly replaced with a new product, and even if the entire lining ceases to suit, it can be easily changed. The installation of frames is carried out exclusively by levels so that there are no distortions.

It is not necessary to measure each individual rail, you only need to mark the walls. The lowest course of the frame is created 10-20 mm above the floor. From the selected point, draw a line using a level. Similarly, show features under the ceilings or along the edges of the finish. Then, 400 - 500 mm recede upwards from the lowest strip that needs to be sheathed, set up a beacon, and so systematically move to the upper strip; beacons will help ensure the parallelism of the lines.

It is important to note that horizontal frames should be mounted in vertical plane, vertical - horizontally. If you need to hang the panels on uneven walls, the crate is mounted on top of wooden wedges. The wires running along the walls are hidden under the finish.

Since you can’t joke with electricity, all work is carried out only after measurements. Clamps press the wiring so that it does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the crate.

Lamels are placed, moving from the most distant (with respect to the entrance) corners. But if for some reason another place is most noticeable, they work from there anyway. The panel is fastened by inserting it into the side moldings, attaching it to the corner and attaching it to the crate from the reverse side. The next block is inserted into a special groove on the first one, the joints are thoroughly pressed and attached to the frame rails. You can increase the tightness of the joints by lubricating the sidewalls with silicone.

The following panels are connected in exactly the same way. To prepare holes for sockets or switches, sharpened knives are used. When the installation is completed, the treated areas are covered with plastic boxes. But to insert the last lamella, it is cut in width. Preliminary fitting is carried out on the wall, basting with a pencil, after which they take a hacksaw.

Each corner, each connection should be covered with moldings. With their help, the panels are inserted with edges on both sides, and all intersections immediately become more pleasant to look at. The final stage of work is the installation of a decorative molding along the entire perimeter of the ceiling and a plinth repeating it at the bottom. If you operate the panels installed in this way carefully, they will retain their attractive appearance for a long time and will not require repair.

Before starting work, be sure to:

remove loose coatings;
looking for cracks and chips;
if they are found, they immediately putty or plaster problem areas.

An additional difficulty is the installation of PVC panels in rooms exposed to moisture. The primary surface must be covered with waterproofing. It is applied to a pre-moistened base. When the product dries, it is treated against mold fungi. When timber battens are used, all calculations of distances from the wall must allow for an allowance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm for possible deviations from the ideal shape.

The upper and lower levels are adjusted according to the hydraulic level, and the side lines - according to the plumb line. Fastening is carried out through suspensions that set the indent. After mounting the battens, carefully check whether its outer edges are on the same line. Adjustment, if necessary, is carried out either by reducing the beam with a planer, or by adding substrates. If screws are used to create the frame, the gap between them will be from 200 to 250 mm for wood and from 150 to 250 mm for metal products.

frameless

Fastening PVC panels does not necessarily mean the use of frames. Often the installation is done with glue. The procedure itself is simple, you just have to carefully prepare for it. Naturally, it is required to remove all the previous coating completely and close up the cracks. If with the framework technique the remaining integral layer could be tolerated, then here the situation is already different.

Making a perfectly perfect wall is not always possible. But even inexperienced people can reduce the height difference to 5 mm or less. In addition, before attaching the panels to the adhesive, it is required to wash off the whitewash, remove greasy traces with detergents and apply a primer. After all this work, the decisive factor is right choice and application of glue. It is allowed to use universal adhesives, but it is much more correct to choose compounds that are specially made for joining plastics.

Quality adhesive:

forms a transparent film in a frozen form;
immune to getting wet, cooling (even alternating with overheating);
adheres two surfaces in a short time and retains its ability to hold them together for a long time.

Hot melt doesn't work at all. It holds the panel too tightly and does not allow the plastic, which expands rapidly when heated, to move. As a result, he quickly disappears. It is advisable to use sealants based on polyurethane or "liquid nails". They allow you to avoid such an unpleasant development of events.

The panels themselves are rubbed with a damp cloth before gluing on the reverse side. This allows dust to be removed.

Then pointwise, at a distance of 0.25 - 0.35 m, glue is applied. Contrary to the evidence, when using liquid nails, the attached panel must be tapped and removed. Only contact with air for 5 - 7 minutes ensures the stability of the connection during repeated application. Frameless installation almost always dispenses with the creation of external and internal corners.

Use instead of them plastic corners without grooves. Such products are pasted over with transparent silicone, rubbing with a damp cloth that removes excess mixture. The insert can, depending on the severity of the angle, reach 2 - 5 cm. The places where the electrical outlet should be placed are cut out. Turn off the power supply in advance; installation is completed by laying skirting boards at the joints with the floor and ceiling, which are screwed with self-tapping screws.

Panel borders cover mounting foam or silicone sealant. The second option is optimal where the humidity is excessively high. If you have to cut off the glued parts, use hand saws or electric jigsaws. Sometimes frameless installation PVC panels are produced using a construction network.

Sheathing the wall with PVC panels, whether framed or frameless, is carried out only in rooms where there are no temperature fluctuations greater than 20 degrees. It is not allowed to install in a room where the air is colder than +10. If the panels were stored or transported at a lower temperature, they should be kept in normal conditions from 48 hours. It is advisable to install a heat-shielding material under the lining. The crate is placed with a maximum step of 0.5 m, no considerations justify exceeding this distance.

Cladding slats should encircle not only openings for windows and doors, but also kitchen vents, as well as ventilation outlets in other rooms. The recommended size of the rails is 3x1 or 3x2 cm. When it is clear that the room will be especially humid, the crate is equipped with cuts. This will improve ventilation. When plastic blocks are connected horizontally on the facades, the grooved edges are oriented downwards in order to prevent the grooves from being filled with water.

Leaving upper and lower gaps of 0.5 cm helps to compensate for temperature shifts. The vertical layout of panels with a pattern is carried out from left to right, from one corner to another. For blocks that are colored monotone or form a pattern that is symmetrical in any direction, the choice of primary angle is subjective. In addition to the tools listed above, work may require victorious drills, screwdrivers, miter boxes, pliers, squares, furniture staplers with staples 1 cm long. When using a finish without seams, maximum attention should be paid to the density of the bow of its parts, otherwise it will turn out ugly.

It is extremely difficult to decorate walls with your own hands using panels decorated with bright and rich patterns, characterized by abundant detailing. Judging by the reviews, such work inevitably causes difficulties, especially when placing components and complementary elements. The relief of the mosaic forces us to completely abandon the idea of removing corner cracks. You should carefully choose the color of the panels to be mounted, because errors of this kind are difficult to correct. The closer to each other the parts of the frame, the stronger it becomes as a whole, but it is impossible to bring the fasteners closer than 300 mm.

It is not advisable to use adhesive fastening if it is known for sure that PVC panels will have to be removed in the future. And the need for this sometimes arises suddenly, so you should definitely think about frame mounting. To attach the cladding to metal profiles, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws with press washers. bumps concrete wall corrected by laying a bar of the required thickness. In the hallway, you can use PVC panels without any doubt, you just need to carefully select them.

Most often they stop at imitation of natural wood. Regardless of the reproduced breed and dark or lightened color, a calm and benevolent interior is created. V contemporary setting use tones such as wenge or bleached oak.

It is worth remembering all the time that in the corridors of a small size, an excess of darkness is contraindicated. Be sure to achieve contrast in the color of the walls and furniture.

More and more popular is the duplication of the appearance of the stone. A variety of PVC coloring with specially selected pigments facilitates this task. Choosing suitable option“stone” wall, we must first ask ourselves whether it is necessary to emphasize the luxury and solidity of the image or to form a laconic ensemble. Regardless of the approach chosen, there is sufficient space to demonstrate originality. It is not even necessary to use the finishing with one panel, they are well combined with other materials (LKM, various wallpapers, frescoes).

Corridors with dim, subdued lighting should be finished with light materials. Otherwise, the space will be visually absorbed. Large rooms can already be covered with large-scale drawings and geometric patterns. If the walls are made light, and flooring- dark, you get an expansion of the room. Attention should be paid to the selection of accessories for PVC panels.

So, the H profile is used at joints and joints, and L is used to start laying and at the ends, although both products are 3 m long and are designed for 0.8 cm panels. P-shaped plastic profiles are inexpensive and weigh a little, make fastening easier. At the same time, they are exceptionally resistant to humidity, water vapor, and temperature fluctuations. You need to install such blocks at intervals of 30 cm. But self-tapping screws or dowels are screwed in every 100 cm.

Profile grooves in the form of the letter P can be used for pulling cables. If the use of a metal crate is chosen, the cable should be pulled in PVC pipes with a corrugated sheath. Only it excludes the destruction of the braids by the cutting parts of the profile. For technical reasons, it is unacceptable to install any PVC blocks in places where a temperature of more than 40 degrees can occur, with high humidity or without it. Instead of trimming the final panels in width, you can unfold them, bringing the locks to the opposite side and cutting off the groove from the outside.

All work with PVC must be carried out more carefully than with wood. It is fragile and any sudden movement can create cracks in the outer layer. There is no way to remove them, the panel will be hopelessly damaged.

How to fix plastic panels to the wall on your own when decorating the interior, what you need to know for this, what tools to use and what is the sequence of work - all this is not difficult to learn today. The modern generation of plastic panels, from traditional lining, 6-10 cm wide, to solid panels 25-30 cm, is increasingly used not only in conventional, standard wall-to-floor wall cladding solutions, but also in options that claim to something to be called really interesting interior solutions that you can implement yourself.

Features of interior solutions for the use of plastic panels

Today, plastic is experiencing a new era of its development. Thanks to more advanced release technologies, manufacturers have moved away from the use of many harmful components. The current generation of this material has a higher environmental friendliness and safety. In addition to this, new aesthetic solutions appeared in the design of the panels - one-color, with unnaturally bright colors, strips of plastic gave way to new, more interesting models. Today, in accordance with the requirements of fashion, more and more popular are panels with imitation of precious woods, which have a rough texture similar to natural wood, which are interconnected without traces of docking.

Following this rapid improvement in the quality of plastic products, new solutions immediately began to appear, making it possible to use plastic panels in interior design - from traditional office spaces to individual corners of modern homes.

Popular today is the use of combined combinations of plastic and other textures, for example, decorative plaster, in the lining of balconies and loggias, the creation of panels from various textures and colors.

Design features of panels

However, independent creation such original solutions interior design is not something special today, because working with plastic does not require special skills and expensive tools, and the panels themselves, like most modern building materials for decoration, are attached very simply.

One of the factors influencing the choice of this particular material is design features panels that allow you to create smooth, seamless surfaces. Various ledges, niches and cornices are not an obstacle. Indeed, unlike wooden panels, in addition to the main type of flat panels or strips of plastic with locking joints on the sides, there are also other shaped elements that allow you to simply and reliably cultivate the edges, internal and outside corners, create a reliable protection for the cut end.

An additional convenience is the ease of installation and the arrangement of all necessary communications. Sockets, switches, ventilation outlets are easily installed in the coating and do not require additional costs for moving to another place.

The main types of panels are mounted both vertically and horizontally. And due to their low weight, they do not require a large number fastening materials. Therefore, the process of self-attaching plastic panels to the wall is extremely simple.

Preparatory work. What to pay attention to

Starting the practical implementation of the project, that is, by installing pvc panels with your own hands, you should first carry out a series of preparatory work:

clean the workplace - fitting plastic panels requires a lot of free space;

walls planned for sheathing are strongly recommended to be cleaned of dust, old coatings, such as wallpaper, and treated with a deep penetration primer with a mandatory antifungal effect;

with a long rule or building level, check the correctness of the plane of the wall and determine the largest irregularities - depressions, bulges, distortions;

Important! Before starting the sheathing, you need to bring the plastic panels into the room so that they adapt to temperature and humidity.

Preparatory stage is really important, because it allows you to prepare the surface for further work and avoid mistakes that will be visible almost immediately. A feature of modern plastic panels is their ability to show even small irregularities - a glossy surface will immediately demonstrate where a mistake was made.

Fastening technology

For self-assembly plastic panels to the wall today, two main methods are used. The first, the most common, using prepared mounting rails. This is the most common method of fastening today, although there are variations of this method, for example, arranging panels first on a frame base, and then attaching them to the wall. But basically, this is the traditional installation of guide rails to the bearing surface, and only then directly to the plastic.

The second, less common option is the use of mounting adhesive as a means of mounting PVC panels. This is a somewhat unconventional approach, since it requires an excellently prepared wall surface, the selection of the appropriate adhesive composition, and careful preparation of the glued surface of the plastic itself. However, this saves space, since there are no slats and the risk of insect colonization of the cavities is minimized. However, this is a very time-consuming and costly installation method both in terms of time and cost.

Attention! It is possible to fix plastic panels with glue only on pre-aligned walls.

Lathing fastening

Sequence of work on self installation plastic lining, taking into account the conditions of each particular room, can be ordered in the following algorithm of actions:

preparatory stage - cleaning of unnecessary things and furniture, cleaning the surface of the walls from wallpaper and their primer;

marking the walls for the crate, taking into account the passage of communications and the features of the interior solution for laying panels;

installation of the crate;

installation of the starting ceiling profile, plinth, first corner profile;

installation of planks of panels;

installation of external elements of engineering communications - switches, sockets, air ducts, contours of heating pipes, water pipes, gas pipes;

The most crucial point, in addition to installing the panel strips, is the fastening of the crate, which acts as a frame for plastic. Lathing battens can be wooden and plastic. Traditionally, wooden slats are used, as they allow the structure to be held and give rigidity to the panels. The tree allows you to eliminate the unevenness of the wall and thereby ensure a flat plastic surface. Of the minuses of wooden planks as a frame is that such planks are prone to decay, and the space between the wall and the plastic increases even up to 2 cm.

Plastic guides make it possible to minimize the gap between the wall and the panel, they do not rot, but require a perfectly flat wall surface and the use of special brackets-panel holders - clamps as fasteners.

When choosing a method of how to independently attach plastic panels to the wall, you need to take into account one more feature of the plastic - it reacts to temperature, and expands when it rises, therefore, for reliable fixation, you need to take into account the step of the crate - 30-50 cm. This step is enough to keep panels.

Lathing laths are arranged perpendicular to the direction of the panel strips, the lower lath is mounted at a height of 5-10 cm from the floor, the upper one at the same distance from the ceiling, if the panels are installed in the entire height of the wall.

For the installation of rails you will need:

puncher with a set of drills;

screwdriver with a set of bits;

saw on wood;

jigsaw;

assembly saw;

drill with a set of drills;

screwdrivers;

hammer;

The rails are fastened with quick-fix nails in through holes, it is preferable to use quick mounting systems with dowels 80 mm long for wooden slats and 60 mm for a plastic tire. Nails are installed at least every 80 cm.

For a plastic guide, the attachment points correspond to the technological holes.

Installation of plastic panels

Installation begins with the installation of the lower guide profile (plinth) and the upper ceiling starting profile from shaped elements. It is preferable that the profile be selected along the length of the entire room. The first bar, adjusted in height (it needs to be made slightly smaller by 5-7 mm), is attached to the corner profile. Installation is carried out vertically in level (or at an angle, if design decision requires a tilt angle). The first strip is fixed with staples, small nails or kleimers.

The second and subsequent strips are attached after the lock connection is tightly fitted. It is allowed to use for a tighter fixation wooden block and a mallet - the bar is attached to the end of the plastic panel and with light blows of the mallet the panel is put in place.

To work with plastic you will need:

tape measure, ruler, corner, marker, and possibly a protractor;

level or plumb;

glue gun and mounting glue (for gluing the ceiling plinth);

hammer;

a mounting saw with a disc for a fine cut (a disc with small or very small teeth);

miter box, at least with angles of 45 and 90 degrees.

A feature of this stage is the need to properly fit the panel to size, and it is recommended to cut it with an electric jigsaw or a mounting saw. The cut should be straight, at an angle of 90 degrees. It is preferable to use a saw with small teeth, resulting in a neater cut. Before mounting in the guides, it is necessary to carefully clean the cuts from sawdust and sintered plastic, and even out the bumps.

In rooms where air temperature fluctuations are small, and plastic will not be subject to frequent expansion and contraction, it is recommended to fix plastic panels to the crate using a construction stapler.

Gradually typing the entire surface of the wall with panels, the edge panel is cut in accordance with the dimensions, while taking into account the size of the corner profile. A dressed corner profile with an extreme strip of plastic is fixed with clamps on an adjacent wall. Thus, all panels in the room are installed.

The edge panel, cut to size, is mounted into the lock groove, first at the bottom, into the wall panel, and then gradually, using a plaster spatula 90-100 mm wide, carefully bending the edges of the plinth and corner, insert further, rising up.

The bent edges of the corner panel and ceiling profile will eventually fall into place, without visible signs of deformation.

In fact, fixing plastic panels to the wall yourself is much easier than it seems. Follow the tips above and you'll be fine. Good luck!