Kitchen set: layout, design, drawings, manufacturing, assembly. Features of self-assembly of a kitchen corner set Do-it-yourself kitchen frame

To make with your own hands wooden furniture to the kitchen, first you need to decide what kind of wood you will work with as the main material. The modern market offers more than 40 types of wood - hard and soft. Solid ones include oak, beech, walnut, yew - their wood is more durable, but it is also more difficult to process them, so they are ideal for the manufacture of solid arrays and slabs. Of the soft ones, you can choose pine, spruce, poplar - they have a smaller margin of safety, but they are easy to process and can be used to design shelves, small cabinets and individual decorative elements. And, of course, the selected material must be of high quality, thoroughly dried and dense, without knots, cracks and layers. V wooden house a DIY kitchen made from the same type of wood as the house itself will look especially good.

Step two. We choose a project and take measurements.

In choosing a project, you can rely on your own imagination or trust professional designers. In addition, you can use Internet resources and choose one of standard projects taking into account the dimensions of your kitchen and your wishes.

To take measurements, we clean the kitchen space and take a tape measure. Measurements are taken at 3 points - near the ceiling, at a height of 5-10 cm from the floor and at shoulder level. By the way, it is at this stage that it is already important to know what kind of wood set you will create - if it is ordinary straight furniture, then we will get by with one tape measure, but if angular structures are planned, then it would be better to use a laser rangefinder.

Thus, we calculate the total amount of material required in square meters, not forgetting the back and bottom surfaces, doors, finishing elements, and so on.

Step three. We buy materials, prepare tools.

Having decided on the material and its volumes, you should take care of the tool. In this case, to make the kitchen step by step, you will need:

- electric drill and electric jigsaw;

– rule/level;

- construction meter / laser rangefinder;

- file, screwdriver, pliers and hammer;

- hacksaw;

- screwdriver;

- emery material / planer;

- a jig with a drill for holes for dowels.

Step four. We make sketches and necessary drawings.

Again, you can try to do everything yourself or resort to the services of 3D design specialists, as well as independently use one of the existing graphic design programs - PRO100, AutoCad or Basis Furniture Maker. (To save money, you can contact the students of specialized institutions - you can get unique drawings for a reasonable price).

Step five. We prepare and collect parts.

First, we cut out the base of the furniture from a solid array, process the surface and ends, drill holes for fasteners. It is advisable to mark each sawn part in some way, so that later during assembly you do not get confused in them. Cutting accuracy is very important - even a few millimeters of error can play a bad role, but the parts will still be polished, which will also slightly reduce their dimensions.

After the main grinding, you can start assembling furniture. We distribute all parts into upper and lower, main and additional. We form the main frame, look at the tightness of the flaps. For example, you can organize the assembly on dowels and euro screws using a Phillips screwdriver and a screwdriver.

If everything fits together, there are no gaps and inaccuracies, we disassemble the furniture, subject it to final fine grinding, treat it with antiseptic solutions and varnish each part separately, preferably in three layers.

When everything dries, we assemble the entire structure and install it in the prepared place. First, cabinets are hung at the top, then the main furniture and lower structures are installed according to the level, fittings are screwed and hung, and a cornice is mounted if desired.

Beautiful wooden table for the kitchen - do it yourself!

For a better understanding of the process, you can consider in detail independent production dining table (pictured).

To make a dining table with your own hands, edged boards will come in handy. If you want to have a solid wood table in your kitchen standard sizes 0.6x1 m, then you will need about 4 boards 50x150 mm. Excellent material the table will be oak or beech, but if you are a beginner, it would be better to prefer spruce or pine, they are easier to work with.

Scheme of work on the tabletop.

1. We mark and cut the boards at a right angle to align them in length.

2. Properly arrange the wood (alternating boards, the rings of which increase downwards with those in which they decrease, will avoid significant gaps after the boards dry).

3. We process the ends with a jointer.

4. We connect the structure in one of the ways: nails, screws, glue, furniture dowels and the like at your discretion.

5. If glue was used, dry the surface until the characteristic traces disappear.

6. Once again we process with a jointer, and then with sandpaper, sharp corners round off.

Let's move on to the table legs.

You can make them from the same edged boards. We choose an arbitrary form. The usual working height from the floor level to the countertop is about 80 cm. We make one leg for example and, using this sample, we cut three more of the same with an accuracy of a couple of millimeters. If you want sophistication and sophistication, the legs can be processed with a milling cutter.

Further - the legs are set around the perimeter and connected by jumpers, which are made of timber or boards and fastened under the table with glue or dowels. Similarly, legs are attached to the jumpers to the table top.

In the final, we process the table with stain and open it with varnish in 2-3 layers. After drying, your new kitchen table ready to use!

For beginners, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the training video.

If it is not possible to buy ready-made furniture, you can make a kitchen set with your own hands. This is a cost-effective solution for small rooms, where it is difficult to find kits of modules from manufacturers.

Similar articles:

Pros and cons of self-creation of a kitchen set

Many consumers are confident that cabinet furniture is manufactured in large workshops under the control of complex equipment. But in reality, the vast majority of inexpensive modular kitchens are produced by private traders. There is nothing complicated in this process. Therefore, there are no obstacles to making a kitchen set at home with your own hands.

In large workshops, canvases are cut, from which modules are subsequently assembled. You can also do sawing yourself with a jigsaw. In this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve high dimensional accuracy of the parts. But this method also allows you to get furniture no worse than purchased. How to make a kitchen set with your own hands, step-by-step instructions will tell you.

The first stage in the development of the design of the modules is the measurement of the kitchen in which it will be installed. For this purpose you will need:

• roulette;
• pencil;
• piece of paper.

In the kitchen, all distances are measured and recorded. Consider the location of plumbing and sewer pipes, air vent. These data will later be needed to draw up furniture drawings. Without them, quality production is impossible. kitchen set with your own hands. All distances are measured to the nearest millimeter. Great help this will have a laser rangefinder.

Preparation of drawings and diagrams

Regardless of whether you will cut out the parts yourself or order their production on furniture production, you will need drawings and diagrams. They are necessary for cutting material. Schemes can be sketched by hand, but a better solution would be to use 3D modeling programs. With their help, they create a full-fledged project for a kitchen set.

When designing the lower line cabinets, the dimensions of the equipment that will be located under the countertop or built-in are taken into account. At the design stage, they also solve the issue of how to install the hood and bring it into the ventilation system.

Do-it-yourself kitchen set is assembled from individual parts, which are cut along given dimensions. For those who do not have experience in the manufacture of cabinet furniture, it is recommended to first perform a rough assembly. For this, thin black self-tapping screws are suitable, which are 1-2 cm smaller than those selected as fasteners. After that, it will become clear how to properly perform sawing, making parts, and what mistakes were made.

Step-by-step instructions will help you not to make a mistake in the sequence of work during self-assembly.

Cabinet assembly technique:

1. The canvas, which will be the bottom of the cabinet (horizontal), is laid on a flat surface.
2. A side wall is attached to the horizontal at a right angle.
3. A drill with a special drill (thin) drills holes for confirmations. The drill should pass through the side wall web and enter the end of the horizontal.
4. Screw in the screws.
5. Attach the second side wall in the same way.
6. Connect the side walls to the back with self-tapping screws.
7. Attach drawer rails.
8. Doors for the kitchen set are hung on crocodile loops.

Installation of upper cabinets is similar:

• Collect the bottom and side walls.
• Strengthen the structure with the help of the back wall.
• Attach the upper horizontal.
• Mount shelves
• Hang doors.

The back walls are made of fiberboard sheets and are attached not to self-tapping screws, but to brackets. You can use thin nails and a hammer for this purpose. If the structure is massive, the back wall is fixed with screws.

I will try to talk about how I made simple kitchen furniture with my own hands. Let's start...

The client wanted this kitchen

Those. all you need to do is 3 wall cabinets, a sink and a cabinet with drawers and a work surface.

Built 3D models, drawings and cutting in Bazis-Mebelshchik. I highly recommend to everyone. When drawing such standard things, an indispensable complex!

Cabinet No. 1 - working

Panel List

• Vertical 704x510 - 2 pcs
• Horizontal 1100x510 - 1 piece
• Horizontal 1068x150 - 2 pcs
• Vertical 688x510 - 1 piece
• Base plate 1100x100 - 1 piece
• Drawer side 500x80 - 6 pcs
• Back wall of a box 310x80 - 6 pieces
• Drawer side 500x195 - 2 pcs
• Back wall of a box 310x195 - 2 pieces

Cabinet №2 - sink

When assembling, the cross bars were rotated 90 degrees and shifted to the wall and doors, respectively.

Panel List

• Vertical 704x510 - 2 pcs.
• Horizontal 800x510 - 1 pc.
• Horizontal 768x150 - 1 pc.
• Base plate 800x100 - 1 pc.
• Horizontal 768x80 - 1 pc.

Wardrobe No. 3 - Large hinged

Panel List

• Vertical 400x385 - 2 pcs.
• Horizontal 768x385 - 2 pcs.

Wardrobe No. 4 and No. 5 - Small hinged

We will make 2 identical wall cabinets. Maybe it would be better to make one for 400 and the other for 700 to keep the line with the lower cabinets, but we decided to do it this way

Panel List

• Vertical 400x385 - 2 pcs.
• Horizontal 518x385 - 2 pcs.

Facades will be purchased, ready. Therefore, they are not in the lists of panels on the diagrams.

• 148x386 3pcs
• 257x386 1 pc.
• 299x706 1 pc.
• 405x706 1pc.
• 715x396 2 pcs.
• 396x796 1pc.
• 396x546 2 pcs.

The facades of the upper drawers will be with inset glass.

But with furniture facades for small drawers - it flew a little. Toli where in the order I did not indicate, whether who took the order, or at the factory - somewhere, someone did not take into account everything. In the end this is what I got

Two horizontal millings were made along the lower facade. And it was necessary to make an ode on the lower facade in the lower part, one on the upper facade - in the upper part. The first major jamb of the project - Now I will know for the future.

Cutting chipboard boards

I ordered a chipboard cut in the same place where I bought the chipboard itself.

Chipboard size laminated - 2440x1830

Here is an example cut. Check.

I must say, they drank this time terribly. We will hide and mill :)

In addition to blanks with large chips, there were also such specimens.

It happens that either they don’t finish the part, or they cut out the wrong size, or they saw it with the wrong direction of the texture. Therefore, when I brought chipboard home, I checked the dimensions of each part, glued paper tape on each piece and wrote the size of the part on it. Here's something like this.

This then helps to quickly find the right part.

I try to glue the adhesive tape on the side of the part, where there are the least number of chips. This will then help to correctly install the part in the product in order to hide the chips from the eyes. Although this is not strict - all the same, when installing the part, you will twist it ten times choosing the best position.

edging

The next stage in the manufacture of our kitchen is edging - processing the ends of finished parts with a PVC edge.

I always glue all the details with an edge, and only then proceed to the assembly. So I break the work into several stages. This makes it possible to prepare more comfortable place for a specific stage and minimize the amount of tools and material in the workplace. It is more practical and more convenient, especially if the entire furniture manufacturing process takes place on small kitchen- like mine:).

I always edge ALL the ends of each piece. For those who are too lazy or consider it superfluous - only visible ends can be glued with an edge (this is done in all furniture manufacturing companies). I process all ends without exception, as this minimizes the evaporation of unhealthy formaldehyde resins. Secondly, you never know where water may appear. There was a case with a hidden bottle of champagne. She decided to open herself in the closet. After that, I had to change 2 shelves, as they were all swollen from moisture. I don’t know if the edge would have saved the shelf from such a fate - I think so. Therefore, when ordering furniture, I recommend everyone to insist on edging all ends. Yes, it's more expensive. But health is more expensive - although this is a personal matter for everyone.

What do I use for edging the ends of chipboard parts in the manufacture of furniture ... ..

Let's start in order:

Iron. Preferably without any coatings, with a flat, solid sole and light. They will have to work hard on weight. I have an old Philips flat iron (about 8-9 years old) - well, VERY light. Easier I have not yet met. The only negative is the Teflon coating. True, after several years of cutting them, there was almost no coverage left :)

A sheet of plain, white, clean paper. Through it I iron the edge. So that someone else wrote about paper - did not see it. But I am using. It seems to me that it is more difficult to overheat the edge - the heating is more even, the edge is not scratched and does not get dirty (after all, I have Teflon on the sole :))

Two clamps and a straight guide. In my case - a piece of tabletop. I press the guide to the table with clamps. When gluing the edge, I rest the part against this guide. This makes it possible to release left hand. I guide the edge with it when gluing and hold the sheet of paper.
Edge bay with applied glue. I put clamps on the screw. Very easy to unwind and doesn't fall off.
A stationery knife with a wide blade and a large and comfortable handle. They can carry out all operations on the swatch of the edge. But I only use it for trimming the end overhangs of the edge.
Convenient longitudinal double-sided trimmer from Wegoma. The tool is nice but not indispensable. All his work can be done by an ordinary clerical knife and does it no worse, although longer.

Well, the process of crimping

I put the part on the table and rest it against the guide. I stretch the edge along the entire end and slightly fix it at the beginning of the end by touching the iron. I do not level the edge along one edge, but give overhangs evenly on both sides.

After that, I put a sheet of paper and through it I begin to iron the entire butt. I heat evenly along the entire length. I do not stop, otherwise the edge quickly overheats and swells with bubbles. Without paper, this happens much faster. I control the process by the state of the glue on the open edge overhang. I try to catch the moment when the glue starts to flow, but does not bubble yet.

When the glue is in this state along the entire length of the end (of course, if the part is small), I raise the nose of the iron and press the heel of the sole with pressure along the entire length of the part. It is necessary to ensure that the heel touches the entire butt, and not just one of the edges. At the same time, the edge is pressed very tightly against the chipboard, which means it sticks well.

While the glue is still not completely frozen, I turn the part over and put the end with the glued edge on the table. I press on the part from above and slightly shake it. By pressing and rocking the part on a flat surface, a good fit of the edge on the overhang lines is achieved. In addition, heat is removed from the edge (glue) to the table. The glue dries faster. Trim the edge only after the glue has hardened.

In this position, I immediately form the end overhangs of the edge with a clerical knife.

No need to cut anything, tearing the edge. You just need to install the blade and press harder. I usually do this by placing a strip of fiberboard with the sanded side up.

It remains to use the Wegoma longitudinal cutter. I did not get used to cutting from both sides at once. So I cut one side at a time. Fortunately, the cutter is detachable. To achieve the best result, I first cut the edge a little from one end (otherwise, there are chips and breaks at the exit), and then I lead the cutter from the opposite end. This is how the process goes – easy and stress-free. Random cuts of the laminate with this method are excluded (but when “burrowing” a clerical knife, they happen).

After that, it is possible to start up the assembly, parts that will be fastened in places where access to the embedded edges will be limited, i.e. the chance of catching the edge is minimal. Although I still advise you to walk with a rag to remove the glue that has come out. Here is a photo of the edge after trimming. Don't be scared, white is not chips - it's glue.

But we are striving for perfection. Therefore, we pass with a fine skin wound on a bar. Wipe off excess glue. And we get such a butt!!

For example, trimming the edge with a regular clerical knife.

I put a sheet of paper and on it the blade of a clerical knife extended to the full. I press the nose of the knife with my left hand, I hold the handle of the knife with my right hand. It is important that the sheet of paper lies close to the glued edge. Then with a hand lying on a sheet of paper and pressing the nose of the knife, I pull the sheet of paper towards myself. It turns out that the knife lies on a sheet of paper, and the paper slides along the edge. In this case, the burrowing of the knife into the chipboard laminate and its scratching is excluded.

There is no left hand in this photo - she is holding a camera. In general, she should press the nose of the knife and pull the sheet of paper along the edge.

Here you can not particularly try and not worry if the edge is cut by the waves. The main thing is not to remove the laminate. In the photo below, I specifically chose a worse area - after trimming the furniture edge with a knife.

Next, I remove a sheet of paper, put the knife directly on the laminate and cut the rest of the edge. The remnants of the edge are small - more often it is the thickness of the paper, so they do not create such resistance when cutting that the knife crashes into the laminate. Therefore, putting the knife with the entire line of the tip on the laminate, I cut off the remnants.

Here, too, it is desirable to press the nose of the knife - I just have a camera in my left hand.

We pass with a sandpaper on a bar, holding it at 45 degrees (we make a chamfer), we erase the remnants of glue with a rag and we get such an end face.

Assembly

Now, about assembly...

In general, I don’t really know what to tell here.

When assembling, I use angle clamps.

I clamp the fastened parts from above and below. I put sheets of paper, otherwise there is a high probability of scratching the laminate or tearing off the edge.

I first mark with a pencil, and then with a wood drill (nail) the place of drilling. I drill and screw in the euro screws without disassembling.

When choosing a drilling site, I am guided by the following rule. I retreat 60 mm from the edge. If the length of the connection of parts is more than 400 mm, I put 3 euro screws. Although it should be looked at the place of course.

For drilling under euro screws I use a special drill with a milling cutter. Very convenient - at one time all 3 diameters.

Under the cup hinges for the facades I drill with a special cutter with an emphasis. The stop prevents drilling deeper than the hinge cups require. A very handy thing. Before that, I had to look for Faustner drills and grind down the guide spike to a minimum. Control the drilling depth by eye. Now everything is much easier and faster - I recommend it to everyone.

I'll tell you how I made hanging boxes using the largest one as an example. With dish dryer. The closet is low. It was not possible to stick a dryer for mugs and plates - there is not enough height. Decided to split it into two sections. In one dryer for mugs, the other - plates. I bought a long dryer for 800 mm. Then I cut it to the size of the departments. The dividing wall hangs on the lid - it does not reach the bottom. Therefore, I put a standard 800mm dryer tray there.

In general, with the assembly, everything is clear here. Bottom and lid are detachable. We fix the parts with corner clamps from above and below. We drill and twist with euro screws. When the frame is assembled, we fasten the back wall (back) from fiberboard. The store increasingly began to nail the back walls, or even just shoot with a stapler. I still prefer screwing. I twist thin screws 20 mm long with a pitch of 80-100 mm. You can use ordinary fiberboard, not laminated. But on it spots appearing from moisture and from fat are strongly visible. Therefore, I still advise laminated fiberboard - you can wash it.

It is worth stopping at the installation of loops - frogs. I put the usual overhead Boyard hinges. The cheapest they were. In general, they work fine - well, over time - we'll see.

From the edge of the center for the loop cup I mark 21-22 mm. I try to withstand 21.5mm. According to the height of the box from the top and from the bottom, I outline the center of the box 80-100mm. This is the place to look. LOOK CAREFULLY SO NOT TO DRILL IN THE PLACE OF MILLING!!! On these facades, the milling was 70 mm from the edge. So I moved the hinge 110mm.

After the hinge is drilled under the cup, I install the hinge, put the metal corner, align one side of it with the edge of the facade, and the other side of the corner sets the hinge in the desired position. I mark the holes for the screws. After that, I drill non-through holes and fasten the loop. In order not to drill through the facade, I use one very simple trick. I take a drill and wind a strip of paper tape at the right height. Now it is very convenient to control the drilling depth.

A special metal corner was chosen as a suspension. It is bolted to the cabinet through a large washer. Allows adjustment and is easy to attach to the wall.

Now I will show how I install the front with screwed hinges on the cabinet.

I open the hinges, move the support platforms to the middle position and apply the facade to the desired surface of the cabinet. We swing the facade and catch the moment when the hinge platforms lay completely on the surface of the cabinet. Only in this position we mark the places of drilling for the screws for fastening the hinge platform.

Do not mark when the toe or heel of the hinge platform is raised above the chipboard (as in the photo below). In this case, there is a high probability that it will not be possible to adjust the loop at all - there will not be enough adjustment limits.

It remains to drill and fasten the facades. After that, it is necessary to adjust the hinges so that there are the same gaps everywhere and the facade lies clearly along the perimeter of the cabinet.

Kitchen sink.

When making a kitchen sink, there are several nuances. First - here are the pictures of the assembled sink. Truth doorknobs not installed here yet.

The worktop must be selected (cut off) according to the depth of the cabinet so that the drip collector extends beyond the facades. A drip tray is a special groove made of water-repellent material or a shallow groove that is located on the lower front side of the table top. When water hits the countertop, the drip tray prevents it from flowing into the kitchen cabinets, forcing water to fall to the floor, bypassing the front of the kitchen.

In general, the packaging of stainless kitchen sinks already has a template for marking the countertop. But the last 2 sinks I installed came with the wrong patterns. Therefore, I advise you to test the template first. Cut it out and just try to put it on a stainless kitchen sink. On the first one, my template was 1 cm smaller than necessary on all sides. On the second side, 1 cm was missing.

Now - how I inserted the sink into the countertop. First, I drew the boundaries of the free area on the countertop. Those. the lines on the left and right at a distance of 16 mm from the edge are the sidewalls. Rear 21mm (stiffness bar 16 mm + 5 mm - canopy over the fiberboard wall). In front, starting from the drip tray line - 34 mm (16 mm - facades + 16 mm stiffness bar + 2 mm - gap between the facade and sidewall). Now there is a rectangle on the countertops in which you need to fit the sink. I measured the sink and the resulting rectangle. I needed to place the sink in the center. Therefore, I put the sink on the countertop, leaving the same distance from all sides of the sink to the rectangle obtained on the countertop and circled the sink with a pencil on the countertop. Then I stepped back from the resulting contour 15mm inward and drew another contour simply by hand. I sawed along this line with an electric jigsaw. To introduce a jigsaw file, I first drilled through hole 10mm drill. I inserted a jigsaw file into it and then went to the markup. It turned out that when installing the sink, it overlaps the countertop by 15 mm.

After sawing, it is necessary to seal the countertop to protect it from water. I glued the outer ends with a wide furniture edge. The resulting internal cut and the lower plane of the countertop missed without sparing, rubbing well, with a transparent sealant.

Before installing the sink, it is necessary to fix the countertop to the cabinet itself. Since the sink is large, I had to be smart. I screwed metal corners into the corners - photo below.

In the middle of the sidewalls and stiffeners, I installed cut corners. I drilled a hole at the bend and screwed the screw at 45 degrees into the countertop.

After that, I installed the sink and pulled it with regular fasteners. You need to watch the screwed screws. In some places, at a certain angle of twisting, the screw, when fully tightened, can rest against the stainless steel and squeeze it out.

I installed the sink seal that came with the kit. It is self-adhesive. Sticks to the edge of the sink. Maybe I just couldn't - but I didn't manage to pull over the entire surface without a gap. The gaps are minimal - the nail will not crawl through. But a hole is a hole. Therefore, I unscrewed everything, additionally applied a strip of transparent sealant around the entire perimeter of the sink, in front of the glued regular sealant. In general, some craftsmen throw out the regular seal and install the sink only on the sealant. Squeeze out the sealant with a "sausage" on the edges of the sink, turn over and attract. At the same time, there are no gaps, the sink fits well, and it is well sealed with silicone sealant, which can also be antiseptic.

Additionally, the side ends of the tabletop were covered with a polished plank. It is screwed on. Before installing it, I smeared it with silicone sealant. This bar prevents the tabletop from being destroyed by possible side impacts and additionally protects against water ingress.

Work table with drawers

Now I will tell you how I made the next piece of furniture for my kitchen. This is a work table with drawers. For starters - photos of my kitchen desktop - the end result.

Both the sink and the worktop are mounted on 100mm adjustable feet. A plinth bar is attached to them in front with regular clips.

For small drawers, I used Boyard ball guides with a load capacity of up to 25 kg. For large drawers, I used wide ball guides of the same company, with a load capacity of up to 45 kg.

There are no special features when assembling the desktop. The tabletop is screwed through the planks. Subtleties only in the installation of facades.

Fastened the facades with screws. 2 screws per front. First, I pasted small pieces of double-sided tape on the box. Then he carefully brought the facade up, holding on to the previously fixed handle. From above and from the side I substituted pieces of fiberboard (for installation with the same gaps). Pressed down. After that, the facade is quite well fixed. Installed all fronts. If you mowed it - boldly tore off the facade and glued it again - very convenient. When the location of the facades completely satisfied me, I drilled with a thin drill and screwed in the screws. That's the whole trick.

Here's what happened in the end

The cost of manufacturing a kitchen - cost price

Position	Price, rub
2 sheets of chipboard laminated 1.83x2.44 16mm
Sawing chipboard
Adhesive-backed edge
facades
Fiberboard - 1 sheet
Pens
glass
Elevators (6pcs), guides (13 pcs.), hangers (6 pcs.), supports (12 pcs.), frog loops (10 pcs.), Planks of an end face of a table-top (4 pieces), euroscrews, screws, glass holders (18 pcs.), Wide edge for worktop (5 m), washers for suspensions (6 pcs.), Metal corners (6 pcs.),
Washing
Drainer
Total	11580,72
A small number of screws, euro screws, silicone sealant, double-sided tape, plugs, it was already and was not bought. Plus consumables: jigsaw blades, sandpaper, a drill for euro screws (the cutter gets dull quickly). Therefore, the real costs are few, 300-400 rubles, more.

This article is great home master(programmer by education) Dmitry Podpalchenko will tell you in detail how he made a kitchen set with his own hands at home. So, word to the author:

DIY kitchen set

Phew, the renovation is over, the queue for furniture. We start, of course, with the kitchen.

Having made miscalculations with furniture makers - starting from home-made garage ones and ending with well-known brands - I got figures (Kiev) from 4 to 7 thousand dollars (I will keep silent about Italian and German brands). This is despite the fact that the kitchen has only the lower part. And this is without taking into account the cost of equipment, washing, mixer. Well, it’s not a fact that by paying decent money, you will get a result of the appropriate quality. My neighbor paid 3,000 for the kitchen - incorrect measurements, multiple trips to “finish it on the spot”, inexpensive fittings (it doesn’t smell like closers), the countertop swelled up after a few months of use.

Pricing for furniture makers, as it turned out, is quite simple - the total cost of materials is multiplied by a factor from 2 (garage) to 3 and even higher (brand). Two-thirds of the cost of a high-tech kitchen comes from fittings. Fittings for one Blum Tandembox Intivo full extension kitchen drawer cost a little less than $100, but each drawer will cost the end customer $200-$300. Not a bad cost-benefit, given the very easy to assemble and well-documented fittings, right? In practice, this is a profit of $ 100-200 for 15 minutes of work. Do you want to do something out of the ordinary? No, that is absolutely impossible! But in fact, just no one wants to turn on the brains.

In search of our solution and style, my wife and I looked at thousands of photos of different cuisines. As a result, we agreed that the lightness of the interior is above all and we do not need upper cabinets - we refuse them in favor of open shelves tempered glass. For the lower cabinets, the only right solution was chosen - full extension drawers. The undisputed leader in these solutions are the products of the Austrian company Blum, and we will work with them. Of course, in any business there are many nuances, and the devil, as you know, is in the details. We replenish the theoretical base on the forums, study photos. The internet has all the answers.

We divide the work into stages:

Measurement

The simplest step, which, nevertheless, must be carried out with particular care. As you know, there are no right angles, and you, to the nearest millimeter, need to draw a drawing of the place where you want to place the kitchen, while indicating the location of the outlets for water, electricity, and all sorts of stupid pipes, if you have them.

Even at the repair stage, I bought a Leica Disto D2 laser rangefinder. This is a very convenient thing that will come in handy more than once in life, so you should not be stingy.

During the measurement, I was faced with the fact that the angle was not quite straight - 91 degrees. And this one degree here will give us a five-centimeter hole between the wall and the butt of the last pedestal on a three-meter segment - this is if we assemble it “correctly”, at a right angle. Later I will show how I solved this problem without difficulty.

Design development

Kitchen furniture almost always has a modular design - that is, it consists of separate cabinets. The width of the cabinet is usually a multiple of 15 centimeters - 30, 45, 60, 75, 90, 120 cm. In fact, this is just a tribute to the unification of production, so nothing stops you from deviating from this standard. During assembly, kitchen cabinets are fastened together and covered - so the modularity of the design may not be obvious.

What is a kitchen cabinet? Bottom, two sidewalls, two narrow strips fastening the sidewalls from above (they do this only to save material) and the back wall is made of thin fiberboard. It is the foundation on which everything else hangs. Is it difficult to do this? Not at all. At the design stage, we do not even need to know how we will fasten all these parts together.

There are several popular furniture design programs. Some do it in AutoCAD, some do not use software at all and make drawings on paper. I used the PRO100 - it's really simple to disgrace, you get used to it in a couple of hours.

Here's what I got as a result:

Everything about Blum products is great - just an example of German-Austrian engineering. Use the proprietary Blum Dynalog program and, as a result, you will receive drawings with all the markings necessary for installing fittings:

I will describe the design details below, using the example of photos of finished products.

Purchase of kitchen appliances

I recommend not to leave this stage “for later”. At a minimum, it is desirable, if not to buy, then at least to clearly define what you will buy later and download all the documentation for these products. Oven, stove, sink - although they are made according to some kitchen standards, they may have structural features. Make do-it-yourself kitchen set, without even imagining what kind of equipment you put there - wrong, you are tormented. For example, I didn’t take everything into account with the oven - therefore, the facade under it had to be additionally milled, which was not originally included in my plans.

I bought an oven and induction hob Gorenje, Eleyus hood, Franke Java sink, faucet with Grohe Blue filtration system.

Order firewood (chipboard, fiberboard, facades)

I used to think that the production of furniture meant large workshops, expensive machines, dozens of people. It happens, of course, and so, but many work in garages. In order to produce furniture, you do not need to cut chipboard and make facades - dozens of people do this in large workshops on expensive machines. We are on our way there.

The result of the design should be an Excel file containing a list of all the panels we need. Here's one:

In terms of materials, my choice was as follows:

Chipboard Egger Cappuccino 18mm as body material
- Chipboard Egger Platinum White 16mm as drawer material
- Egger fiberboard for the rear walls of the cabinets
- Painted MDF as

Now the nuance! The company we are visiting has a chipboard warehouse program - these are the thicknesses and colors that they keep in stock constantly in large quantities. If the chipboard you need is in the warehouse program, you will pay for that much square meters how much you need. But if it is not included, you will have to buy chipboard sheets. One sheet, in the case of chipboard Egger, is 5.8 sq.m. And if you need 6.3 sq.m. still have to buy two sheets.

Companies that are engaged in cutting and edging chipboard, the production of facades, today can be found in almost any regional center of the country. You give them blueprints and money. They are for you - all your firewood in packaged form with delivery even to the apartment, although, for example, I had to sweat and drag these hundreds of kilograms from the entrance to the apartment.

Cutting and edging chipboard, fiberboard, facades, delivery - all this cost me $ 650.

Hardware order

No problem. But there is practically no point in scouring large construction hypermarkets - there are mainly inexpensive mass markets. It is better to find a decent supplier of furniture fittings with a large assortment and buy everything there.

I bought:
- 12 sets for Blum Tandembox Intivo full extension drawers
- 2 hinges + bluemotion for under-washbasin door
- 1 roll-out grid with a closer under the oven

Detail:

Do-it-yourself kitchen set: tool purchase

In general, any handy kid already has some tools. I had to buy a Makita screwdriver, a Bosch jigsaw, clamps and a Wolfcraft jig.

I’ll warn you right away - there’s nothing to do without a screwdriver in assembling furniture! There's a hell of a lot of screws in there. And Chinese disposable crafts for 40 bucks will not help you. You need a serious, good screwdriver. Do not be stingy, in life it will come in handy more than once.

So, at the beginning of the process we have:

First of all, we will take the firewood to the balcony and sort it into cabinets. Fortunately, each item has a sticker corresponding to the part number in the above parts list:

Well, let's get started!

Almost all Italian cabinet furniture is assembled on dowels (chops) - the advantage of this method is that no parts of the fasteners come out, the disadvantage is that furniture assembled on dowels is not separable. Furniture makers prefer confirmation for such purposes - it is much less demanding in terms of tolerances.

The connection on the dowels requires an accuracy of fitting the reciprocal holes of 0.5 millimeters. Such a result is difficult to achieve without the use of a special tool. So I bought this tool:

This is a Wolfcraft Dowelmaster dowel jig.

So, our task is to assemble the first cabinet and understand whether our hands are growing from the ass, or still from the shoulders. We take the sidewall, we will make holes that will be connected to the bottom with dowels. Pay attention to the drilling depth gauge on the drill. What it is for, I hope it is not necessary to explain. Bzzzin:

Here's what we got:

Holes on the sides - 40 mm. from the edges, center in the middle. Sidewall width (it matters, I'll tell you later) - 560 mm. The conductor works in the mode of both drilling reciprocal holes and copying. Copy to the second side. This is the principle of operation of the conductor for drilling reciprocal holes, I show the example of the drawer:

Let me remind you that when connecting to dowels, the accuracy of drilling the reciprocal holes (plus or minus half a millimeter) is important. With these tools, I have never had a problem with this - the parts fit into each other with little effort. This device will greatly save your time - for the sake of interest, I tried to do manual marking on test pieces of chipboard - this is many times more time and a much higher probability of error.

Here is the bottom of the box with counter holes already drilled for the sidewalls:

I drilled 20 holes and voila, my hands don't grow out of my ass:

Do-it-yourself kitchen set: moving on

Now we need to equip the cabinet with drawer guides, legs and a back wall made of fiberboard. There is nothing complicated in mounting the guides - all in the same Blum Dynalog program, you get the exact dimensions of the points where the guides will be attached. One rule applies here - measure seven times, cut one:

Just like two and two. If you make a mistake within 3 millimeters, everything will still work fine. Excellent technique!

Mounting the legs is also not difficult. The main thing is to set yourself a standard for their location and follow it on all pedestals:

Another pedestal (the widest, 80 cm) is ripe. It already has guides and legs.

You should not worry at all due to some fragility of the product - as soon as the back wall is mounted - the cabinet will be filled with pleasant strength. Shown here First stage back fixings - the bottom is fastened with two screws on the sides, the diagonals and angles are measured, the top is fastened with a clamp to the side. Now you can safely peel the screws (after making a preliminary drilling with a two-millimeter drill):

Well, as if there is already progress:

Do-it-yourself kitchen set: we hang facades

On the left on the facade - a drilling jig (the same Wolfcraft), to the right - a manual countersink:

Unfortunately, I did not film the process of assembling the boxes, but with this fitting it is a very simple job. One box takes 10-15 minutes. Three hours of work and the facades are already on the boxes:

Here an electric jigsaw came into play - I sawed holes for sockets with it, after which I asked for an open cut. Well, I hung the filter control unit and the holder of the filter itself:

When all the cabinets were ready, it was time to reunite them. At this stage, it is important, by adjusting the legs, to bring them into level - that is, the top of the cabinets should lie in the same plane. We clamp the cabinets together with clamps, and be sure to make a “lining” - wooden block into which the drill will exit. If this is not done, serious chips will appear at the outlet.

Well, we mount the hinges - crocodiles, as real furniture makers call them (I'm not real). The holes for the hinges were ordered - in general, you can make them yourself, for this there is a Faustner drill.

I brought a countertop, Luxeform Boston 38 mm. I asked to make cutouts, they did, but look how interesting it is:

Basically, they are right. Transporting a massive table with a full cutout is a risk - it can break. I had to work with a jigsaw. The cut must be covered with silicone - the open end of the chipboard will quickly swell if this is not done. Well, here you can also see how the issue with an obtuse angle was resolved - everything is very simply leveled. Naturally, I previously made a drawing with geometry calculation.

A small ambush was waiting with a shell. The instructions say "Comrade, take the core and fuck it well in the center of the sticker." On the reverse side, in the place where the holes should be, a cut was made - that's just like on the countertop. I took the core, took the hammer and let's, carefully so, bale on the sink for $ 500. The hand did not rise, the heart contracted. In general, I despised the instructions, made holes in a circle, after which I poked it once, processed it with a file and everything became fine:

I also dealt with plumbing.

Oh, how I exhausted myself with the choice of a faucet ... Filtered water is needed, but I didn’t want to bring out this vile additional faucet at all - I set out to find a faucet with both filtered and tap water supply. The choice of such mixers on the market is extremely scarce. I was wildly delighted when I found such a thing as Grohe Blue. Its charm, as it were, is that it is not only a mixer, but also a branded filter, and I am ready to trust a company like Grohe blindly. As a result, we are very satisfied:

Do-it-yourself kitchen set: result

Based on Dmitry Podpalchenko's blog (http://podpalchenko.livejournal.com/2013/06/04/»>http://podpalchenko.livejournal.com/2013/06/04/)

Market kitchen furniture striking in its diversity. Incredible design solutions win the hearts of hostesses, versatility delights, and only exorbitant prices make most of us descend from heaven to earth and think about an alternative.

If you have a master vein and you like to work not only with your hands, but also with your head, the ideal option for you would be to make a kitchen set with your own hands. Whole necessary material, all the accessories and tools that you may need in the course of work, you can easily find in stores or markets.

And, believe me, the quality of your home-made kitchen set will not be inferior to factory counterparts, but the price of the final result will pleasantly surprise you.

With the desire to make a kitchen set on your own, everything is clear - you are ready to completely immerse yourself in work and, perhaps, surpassing all expectations, create something "brilliant" and as functional as possible. Okay. Let's decide how you will do it.

There are several ways to implement your plan.

1. You can purchase ready-made parts for a kitchen set and assemble them, guided by the assembly recommendations. This is a very simple option in which you get a standard kitchen.
2. You can contact one of the specialized companies that will help you with the project, cutting the necessary details, edging. You will only need to pre-set the dimensions and then assemble everything yourself.
3. You do all the work (measurements, cutting, assembly) yourself and as a result you get an exclusive, high-quality and practical headset.

So, you have settled on the last option, which means you need to “turn on” your head, arm yourself with a pencil and a ruler, and finally get down to business.

The simplicity and practicality of the design is the key to comfort. The work triangle rule

The first step in creating a kitchen set is the choice of its design.

• - a classic version of the kitchen room of any size and layout. The kitchen set, located in one row, will surprise you with its ergonomics, symmetry and functionality.
• double line kitchen- ideal for a through or elongated kitchen. The furniture is located along two parallel walls.
• corner layout- suitable for almost any room. The set is located along two walls, while saving space.
• U-shaped layout- is the most convenient and safe, but is only suitable for large kitchens. Placement of furniture and equipment in a similar way determine the most comfortable work.
• Island or Peninsular- Preferable for large rooms. Ideal for zoning. The island/peninsula accommodates a sink, stove, workplace or serving table.

The rule of the "working triangle" is quite simple, it consists in the visual unification of the main elements of the kitchen. These elements include a stove, sink and refrigerator.

Three main zones - the cooking zone, the washing zone and the food storage zone - are the basis for organizing the kitchen space. Their correct design in the future will affect the ergonomics of the entire kitchen.

Ideal material

The next step on the way to your goal will be the choice of material from which your headset will be made.

1. Chipboard chipboard. In fact, these are pressed wood chips and sawdust impregnated with a substance based on formaldehyde resin. This material has a lot of advantages: availability, strength, light weight, moisture and water resistance, resistance to impact. chemical substances and mechanical impact, ease of care. Ideal for wall cabinets.
2. MDF fibreboard. MDF is a material made of compressed sawdust, "bonded" with resins. Rarely used in the manufacture of frames, shelves and walls, a headset is more suitable for facades.
3. Natural wood - solid wood. Most often, for the manufacture of kitchens, an array of oak, beech is used, there are also models from pine birch. They are distinguished by density, strength and flexibility, as well as an amazing noble texture. The material is not cheap - be prepared for this.

These are the main materials used for the kitchen. More front options.

Characteristics of the material used for the facade of the kitchen

Material name	"Pros"	"Minuses"
Painted MDF	Diverse color palette; ease of care; moisture and odor resistance; many coatings (gloss, chameleon, metallic).	Inexpensive option; fade; resistant to mechanical stress.
solid wood	Ecologically pure; wonderful appearance; durable; possible decoration.	"Cranky" in care; resistant to chemical attack; dims; absorbs moisture and odor; expensive.
MDF covered with PVC film	available; resistant to aggressive household chemicals; variety of textures and colors; the possibility of manufacturing non-standard elements.	After a while, the film may peel off; dims; the “wood look” option looks cheap and does not paint the kitchen.
Plastic	Does not pass moisture; does not burn out; has a large color palette; resistant to chemical attack; durable.	Fingerprints remain; matte plastic is difficult to care for; possible geometric distortions.
Frame MDF	Budget; lighter than an array, but outwardly as close to it as possible; the ability to combine materials.	Not moisture resistant; do not withstand high temperatures; difficult to care for; the quality of the material is difficult to check.
Laminated chipboard	Minimum cost; the possibility of manufacturing facades of various sizes.	Appearance "cheap"; short service life; not moisture resistant; can expand; the film peels off over time; possible manifestations of spots of fat.
Aluminum profile at the base of the facade	moisture resistant; not "afraid" of high temperature; the possibility of combining MDF and glass, rattan and glass; it is possible to make a frame with a photo; maximum service life.	Over time, aluminum darkens; not resistant to mechanical stress; not resistant to aggressive chemicals; special fasteners are needed, which will increase the cost of an already expensive design.

Each material is unique in its own way, each has its own distinctive features.

Do not judge the appearance of the item you are interested in by the photo - go to a furniture store and clearly make sure that the choice is correct or vice versa.

Let's start, perhaps the most milestone- measurements. At this stage, you should already decide what design your headset will be and where exactly its main elements will be located.

We start measurements with the most important distances - the distances between the walls. We designate ledges, battery, window and door openings. Do not forget to measure the location of the switch, sockets, drain. Everything is repeatedly checked and transferred to the drawing.

When measuring, measurements must be taken at several levels - closer to the floor, at waist level, near the ceiling. Small deviations due to uneven walls are possible.

These very “irregularities” are best corrected, but you can simply take them into account when designing lockers.

Pay attention to water or gas pipes - the subsequent installation of the kitchen will be difficult if these nuances are not taken into account.

First, create a schematic drawing, not to scale.

Take measurements of the main household appliances, add a gas pipe to the plan and, accordingly, the dimensions of which will depend on the dimensions of the adjacent cabinets and cabinets.

Now we calculate the height, width, depth of each individual element, write it in the plan.

Calculation of each individual element

When the overall dimensions of the future headset are known, we will determine the dimensions of its individual elements. The figure shows an example of "cutting" a cabinet for an oven and hob. Similarly, we calculate each detail of each locker.

For ease of calculation, we will draw a cabinet and “divide” it into boards. Write down the dimensions of each.

Note! The calculation of the internal shelves is carried out as follows: we subtract 32 mm from the width of the cabinet (the thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm., You have two boards) - we get the width of the shelf.

Let's make a list of everything you need and go to order, not forgetting about the accessories. As a rule, in the workshop where the cut is carried out, the adhesive edges are also handled. It is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve an ideal result with gluing on your own, which means that we order this service as well. Drilling holes is also not worth taking on.

The final stage - assembly

So, all the materials were brought from the sawmill workshop. We lay out all the elements for each cabinet, while checking the complete set, and proceed to assembly.

Advice! Make sure everything necessary tools for assembly you have in stock. If something is missing, it is better to get it in advance than to run around the shops in search of this or that item.

You will need:

• drill;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• drill for holes for confirmation;
• screwdrivers;
• confirmation key;
• screwdriver

Each detail of each individual cabinet is mounted in stages. There are no strict rules in this process, the main thing is accuracy and accuracy, otherwise the damaged chipboard will have to be changed and the work will stop.

It is better to collect cabinets gradually, without cluttering up the kitchen. The assembly of the lower part of the kitchen set is completed with the installation of the countertop. If the countertop is not solid, but consists of several parts, it will be necessary to use a special connection.

The optimal height for hanging elements is 135-140 cm from the floor level. This is the bottom mark wall cabinet, here the wall border is fixed.

We raise one of the cabinets and mark the attachment points on the wall. We remove the cabinet again and use a drill to make holes for anchor fasteners, they will firmly and securely fix the heavy structure. We fix the first and subsequent elements of the headset according to this algorithm.

For a person who first took up the self-assembly of furniture, the process may seem complicated, but do not be discouraged - look at the materials, assembly instructions again, and you will succeed.

finish line

Kitchen cabinet assembled and installed. To get the "perfect picture" we mount electrical appliances and equipment. That's all. Job is done.

Your relatives will rightfully appreciate “your creation”, and it will delight you for more than one year. And if you want something new, go ahead! You are already an expert in this matter - go for it.