Assembly drawings of a solid fuel boiler. How to make a long-burning boiler with your own hands - a step-by-step guide. How to make a pyrolysis boiler

Content

1. Why is a solid fuel boiler so good?
2. The main components of a solid fuel boiler
3. Tools and materials for self-manufacturing
4. We manufacture and launch a homemade boiler
5. Features of installing a TT boiler with your own hands

Introduction

For many years, wood, coal and peat were the only available sources of fuel. That is why the use of homemade solid fuel stoves has a rich history. Recently, however, furnaces have been replaced by solid fuel boilers. Many craftsmen independently develop the design of such devices and make them at home with their own hands.

In this article, we will consider what a home-made solid fuel boiler is, what are the features of its design, what materials and tools are needed for self-production, and also what are the nuances of installation and installation.

Why is a solid fuel boiler so good?

A solid fuel boiler is one of the most popular heating appliances. They are used everywhere, not only in Russia, but throughout the world. There are several reasons for this popularity:

• solid fuels are cheaper than other fuels;
• firewood and coal are more affordable than gas or electricity;
• simplicity of boiler design;

Photo 1: Kindling a homemade wood-fired boiler

The simplicity of the design allows you to assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands without any problems. This task can be done by anyone with a little bit of welding skills. It is enough to pick up the necessary tools, prepare materials, disassemble the diagrams and drawings, and you can get to work.

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The main components of a solid fuel boiler

If you are determined to assemble a boiler for your country house with our own hands, then first we will get acquainted with the scheme of its device. The classic hot water boiler is a very simple appliance. Structurally, it consists of the following main components and assemblies:

• furnace

  Structurally, it is a compartment in which fuel burns.

• ash pan

  The section directly below the firebox in which ash accumulates.

• grate (or grate)

  Most often made of cast iron, such as y, but steel ones are also found. Through the holes in the grate, the ash enters the ash pan, from where it is then removed manually.

• firebox and ash pan doors

  Serve to lock the respective chambers.

• chimney

  Pipe for removal of a smoke and gases arising in the course of burning.

• heat exchanger

  A device that transfers the energy of a burning fuel to a coolant, such as water. Structurally, it is a container. In the upper and lower parts of the heat exchanger there are branch pipes for connection to the heating system. In the process of fuel combustion, the coolant heats up, while rising in upper part containers, from where it enters the heating system through the pipe. After passing a circle through the heating system, it returns to the heat exchanger through the lower pipe. Such a closed cycle provides space heating.

Photo 2: Solid fuel boiler from a gas cylinder

As you can see, the design of a solid fuel boiler is quite simple and even without special skills, it is quite possible to assemble it yourself. To do this, we need a drawing, as well as some set of tools and materials.

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Tools and materials for self-production

Before you start creating a homemade solid fuel boiler, you need to prepare everything necessary materials and tools. In the process of work we will need:

materials

For the manufacture of a domestic solid fuel heating device, the following materials will be required:

• steel sheets from 5 mm thick

  The use of thick steel sheets makes it possible to avoid burning through the walls of the boiler and achieve strength and durability of the structure.

• metal corners of different sizes

  Corners are used to form stiffeners and connect steel sheets to each other.

• firebox and ash pan doors

  Cast iron doors for a homemade boiler are best purchased in specialized stores.

• pipes of different diameters of round and rectangular section

  Steel pipes will be needed in the process of manufacturing a heat exchanger.

• grate

  The grate, as well as the doors for the firebox and ash pan, are best purchased at the store.

Photo 3: Making a homemade solid fuel boiler

Instruments

In order to make a solid fuel boiler yourself, you must have the following tools at hand:

• welding machine

  When making a boiler with your own hands, the lion's share of the whole process is occupied by welding. You must have welding experience or entrust this task to professionals.

• Bulgarian

  The grinder is useful for cutting steel sheets, and preparing holes in various parts of the boiler.

• devices for measuring and marking

  In order to correctly cut the necessary blanks for the future solid fuel boiler, it is necessary to measure and mark them. To carry out this stage of work, you will need a tape measure, corners, level and chalk.

• metal working tools

  We will need: pliers, a hammer, grinding wheels of various sizes, an electric drill, etc.

Important! When working with metal and a welding machine, one must be extremely careful and observe safety precautions. All work must be carried out in gloves that protect against cuts, and when welding, use a protective screen for the eyes.

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We manufacture and launch a homemade boiler

In order to start making a home-made solid fuel boiler with our own hands, we only lack its scheme. There are many design options. There is even a variety hob. The figure below shows a drawing of the simplest solid fuel heating device:

Photo 4: Drawing of a homemade solid fuel boiler

As you can see, everything is quite simple and you will be able to make such a boiler yourself. We use as a basis gas cylinder which is ideal for this purpose. So, all the preparatory work has been carried out and you can proceed directly to the marking and cutting of parts, and then to the assembly of the boiler itself.

markup

With a marker right on the bottom of the propane tank body, mark a rectangular hole for installing the ash pan door. Along the perimeter of the upper part of the body, draw a cut line for the top.

We make a boiler cover

Cut off the top of the balloon along the previously marked line. We weld strips of sheet metal 3-5 mm thick along the cut line so that a groove is formed into which the top cover fits tightly. We cut off the cylinder valve, and in its place we cut a hole with a diameter of 150 mm. The lid must be equipped with handles for easy installation and removal, as well as clamps for fastening to the main part of the boiler.

Photo 5: Gas bottle with cut top

Making a chimney pipe

From the end of the cylinder, in its upper part, we cut a hole for attaching the gas outlet pipe. Subsequently, a chimney will be attached to it.

Preparation of the ash chamber

Cut out a rectangular opening at the bottom of the balloon. Then, in this opening, we will mount a door that tightly closes the ash pan.

Photo 6: We cut a hole for the ash pan in the boiler blank

Making an air supply system

From a steel sheet, 5 mm thick, cut out a round disk with a hole in the middle. The diameter of the disc should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the inside of the balloon. We weld several guides from the corners to the surface of the disk.

Photo 7: We make the air supply system ourselves

We design a heat exchanger

There are quite a few various options heat exchanger design. What unites them is that they all represent a flow path. We will manufacture a heat exchanger based on the principle of a water jacket. Structurally, it will be a rectangular tank, inside which we will place our firebox from a propane cylinder. At the top and bottom of the heat exchanger we will make nozzles for connecting the supply and return lines.

Photo 8: We independently manufacture the TT boiler body

Boiler assembly

We collect together all the parts of the firebox and place it inside the tank. In the body of the heat exchanger, it is necessary to make an opening for access to the ash pan. The tank is brewed from above and a sealed boiler is obtained with a firebox in its center.

For more information on how to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, see the video:

The principle of operation of such a solid fuel boiler is quite simple. The heat exchanger tank is filled with water and connected to the heating system. Firewood is filled through the top cover. The bookmark from above is set on fire and an air supply device is inserted into the boiler, and then the lid is closed. Firewood burns from top to bottom, thanks to which the heating device operates on one tab for a long time. As the firewood burns out, the air supply device drops lower and lower to the ash pan. After the firewood burns out, the boiler is cleaned of ash through the lower door.

A solid fuel boiler is an expensive unit, and many home craftsmen want to make it on their own, reducing the family budget for heating and system maintenance. Schematic diagram of a solid fuel boiler long burning is quite complicated, but with appropriate theoretical and practical training, everyone can make this heating device, and in some respects it can surpass industrial samples of solid fuel boilers.

Types of pyrolysis boilers

The first step in assembling a long-burning boiler with your own hands is to choose the type of unit, which will depend on the preparation of the master, the use of professional and special tools and materials. It is not difficult to find a drawing of a solid fuel boiler for long burning, and the following scheme can be taken as a basis:

This is the simplest, but most reliable boiler circuit that uses the pyrolysis effect. What designs of pyrolysis combustion heating boilers still exist, and how do they differ from each other? The main difference is how the direction of combustion of solid fuel will be structurally designed:

1. The device with lower combustion - the fuel must be ignited from below. This is the traditional scheme of operation of most pyrolysis devices. Such units are divided into two subspecies:
   • With a standard combustion scheme, in which coal, peat or sawdust ignite and burn in one combustion chamber, which simultaneously works as a loading (stowing) chamber and a firebox. Exhaust gases and smoke are removed through the chimney in the upper compartment of the firebox;
   • Boiler of a mine design - a mine for laying fuel performs only its functions. The fuel ignites from below, the fire and hot combustion products of the fuel move through the heat exchanger, equipped in the adjacent chamber;
2. Devices with top combustion of fuel work the other way around - combustible material is ignited from above, and a long combustion process takes place, directed from top to bottom under the action of forced air.

According to the type of fuel combustion, the units are divided into:

1. Boilers with standard type of combustion;
2. Units with gas generator or pyrolysis combustion - the fuel burns at high temperatures in the chamber and with a lack of oxygen. In this case, wood gas, called pyrolysis gas, is released, which also burns out in the process of its removal from the boiler.

Also, solid fuel boilers can have different schemes and designs of heat exchangers. The heat exchanger itself can be made in the form of a coil encircling the fuel chamber and pipes, or in the form of a solid metal jacket that covers the firebox from all sides.

Solid fuel boiler - how to make it yourself

The most efficient in terms of efficiency (≥ 90%), simple to manufacture and reliable in operation are solid fuel gas generators. Such a heating device works on the principle of "slow" combustion of fuel with a lack of oxygen in the firebox. Due to the lack of oxygen in the chamber, a large volume of combustible gases is formed, the combustion of which occurs in the next chamber. It is noteworthy that combustible materials are cheap and affordable firewood, peat or straw in briquettes (pellets), oil mill waste (sunflower husks), coal, shavings or sawdust, household waste.

An industrial pyrolysis boiler is expensive (at least $ 600-700), although many people like it for its characteristics. For this reason, assembling an upper combustion boiler at home is a demanded problem that solves economic family issues.

The complexity of the assembly does not scare away the craftsmen - you need to be able to handle electric welding, read drawings and diagrams. Heating equipment with a lower chamber is more expensive and more difficult to make, therefore, for self-assembly of the boiler, a scheme with pyrolysis combustion is recommended, the chamber for which is mounted in the upper part of the body.

The device and manufacture of a boiler with upper combustion

1. For the manufacture of the boiler body, it is necessary to prepare two metal molds with different sizes, which are connected by welding to each other. The easiest way to find cylindrical cases, for example, from gas, oxygen or other cylinders. The larger cylinder will serve as the outer casing, the smaller cylinder will serve as the combustion chamber of the boiler;
2. The distance between the cylinders will work like a shirt - a coolant will pass through it;
3. A smaller cylinder is divided by a steel partition into two compartments - one part works as a firebox and an air distributor, in the other compartment, the gas released during the pyrolysis reaction is burned;
4. The distributor is made in the form of a telescopic structure, from one end of which a plane with petals is welded, which evenly distributes the burning emissions;
5. From the opposite end, air enters the combustion zone to maintain a constant burning of the fuel;
6. When burned, the bookmark volume decreases, and the distributor moves lower, redistributing the air supply;
7. To control combustion, special devices powered by electricity are installed;

For the manufacture of pyrolysis boilers by the craftsman, you will need simple tools, inexpensive materials and understandable diagrams:

1. It is necessary to develop your own drawing or make a solid fuel long-burning boiler with your own hands, drawings for which can be found in the public domain. In extreme cases, you can work with a common or circuit diagram on which the main dimensions of the structure will be indicated;
2. DC machine for metal welding, electrodes 3 and 4 mm;
3. Bulgarian and discs for metal (grinding and cutting);
4. Metal cylinder ( steel pipe or cylinder) L = 1.3 m, Ø = 0.5 m, H = 3 mm (L is the length of the cylinder, Ø is the diameter of the cylinder, H is the thickness of the cylinder stack);
5. Metal cylinder (steel pipe or cylinder) L = 1.5 m, Ø = 0.45 m, H = 3 mm (L is the length of the cylinder, Ø is the diameter of the cylinder, H is the thickness of the cylinder stack). If there are no cylinders or suitable pipes, it is possible to make cases from steel sheets measuring 1250 x 2500 x 2.5 mm, roll them at the factory and weld them into round cases;
6. Steel pipe Ø 60 mm, product length - 1.2 m;
7. Two narrow iron cylinders Ø 0.5 m, width 25 mm. Such elements can be formed from sheet iron and welded;
8. Steel sheet for the door of the loading and ash chambers;
9. Sheds, handles for opening doors, air valves;
10. Trimmings of a metal corner for the legs of the body and for the manufacture of blades;
11. Asbestos cord or asbestos cloth for thermal insulation of the furnace and ash doors;

How to make a boiler body from pipes

• Steel pipes 0.5 and 0.45 m are inserted into each other and connected by a metal ring made of a plate 25 mm wide;
• A billet Ø 0.45 m is cut out of sheet iron, one end of the pipes is welded to obtain a cylinder with a thermal contour 25 mm wide;
• A rectangular hole 150-100 mm in size is cut out at the end of the cylinder for the ash chamber door. Then the hatch is welded, the door itself is hinged and equipped with an air valve;
• A rectangle is cut out along the hull for fuel loading. The dimensions of the furnace door are calculated based on the dimensions of the fuel. A hatch is welded and a door is attached to the hinges, which is also equipped with a valve. Doors are recommended to be welded with double walls and with asbestos gaskets to reduce heat losses;

• A piece of pipe is welded on top in the body to release the products of combustion of fuel;
• According to the size of the shirt, sections of pipes Ø 1 inch or ¾ inch are welded at the top and bottom, through which the heating of the house will be connected. The pipes are threaded;

It remains to check all the seams by pressure testing with water under pressure ≥ 2 kg / cm 2.

How to make an air distributor

1. From sheet iron, it is necessary to cut a workpiece smaller by two to three centimeters than, Ø inside the boiler. In the center of this blank, a hole Ø 60 mm must be cut out by welding (the same as the diameter of the distributor pipe);
2. After making the distributor for boilers, you need to fix it. To do this, a steel circle Ø 500 mm is cut out, and a hole Ø 60 mm is cut in the center. The distributor is installed in the unit, the upper part of the distributor must be passed through this hole, after which the boiler cover can be welded hermetically. To raise and lower the distributor, a steel cable is attached to the loop;
3. Sections of a corner or channel are welded onto the circle from below, which will act as blades. They can be bent, as in the photo, but can be left straight;
4. At the opposite end, an iron loop is attached by welding to lift the distributor, a damper is installed, which is designed to regulate the air stream in the fuel combustion zone.

Do-it-yourself long-burning pyrolysis boilers, drawings of which can be found in the public domain in a wide variety, can be with a lower chamber, but such designs are much more difficult to make with your own hands. Such units are structurally carried out with a smoke exhauster or with forced pressurization.

In this design, air is forced into the chamber designed for burning out the fuel. This boost creates high pressure, due to which almost complete combustion occurs. The fan can be mounted either immediately on the door of the firebox, or on the side, connected to the chamber with a metal sleeve.

Advantages of boilers with lower combustion of fuel:

1. The blower fan can be absolutely anything;
2. It is possible to combine the combustion chamber with the afterburning chamber, since the required volume of air is provided by blowing, and it can be regulated by the power of the fan.

But this advantage also has negative sides:

1. Due to the high speed of the air jet, not all the air is directed to the center of the combustion chamber, and the fuel will not burn completely;
2. Also, due to the high air velocity, a small percentage of pyrolysis gases do not burn out, entering the chimney in their original form, therefore, it is impossible to obtain an efficiency of more than 80-90% with such an organization of the combustion process.
3. If the boost is too strong, the boiler can simply explode, so the boost rate and the amount of pressure created must be carefully calculated.

Despite the huge number of heaters on the market, a popular option is a long-burning solid fuel boiler.

Homemade TT long burning boiler

This unit can be used as the main source of heating in remote areas where gasification and electrification are not provided. Reliable, efficient and economical, it is an excellent heating solution country house, a cottage in the city or a summer residence.

Unlike a conventional boiler, where the main heat comes from the flame itself, a long-burning TT boiler works on a completely different principle. This article will discuss how to properly make a long-burning solid fuel boiler with your own hands, and the drawings and installation diagram will help you not to make a mistake and do everything technologically correct!

In conventional solid fuel units, one bookmark is enough for 6-7 hours of burning. Accordingly, if the next portion of resources is not added to the furnace, the temperature in the room will immediately begin to decrease. This is due to the fact that the main heat in the room circulates according to the principle of free movement of gas. When heated by the flame, the air rises and exits.

The thermal resource of a long-burning boiler is enough for about 1-2 days from one laying of firewood. Some models can keep warm up to 7 days.

How is this cost-effectiveness and efficiency achieved?

From a conventional boiler, a TT long-burning boiler is distinguished by the presence of two combustion chambers at once. In the first, the fuel itself burns as standard, and in the second, the gases released during this process.

An important role in this process is played by the timely supply of oxygen, which is provided by the fan.

This principle has been implemented relatively recently. In 2000, the Lithuanian company Stropuva presented this technology for the first time, which immediately gained respect and popularity.

Today, this is the cheapest and most practical way to heat a country house, where gasification is not provided and there are power outages.

Such units operate on the principle of burning top fuel. As a standard, in all furnaces, the firebox is located at the bottom, which allows you to take cold air from the floor, heat it up and lift it up.

The principle of operation of this boiler is somewhat similar to pyrolysis. The main heat here is released not from the combustion of solid fuel, but from the gases released as a result of this process.

The combustion process itself takes place in a closed space. Through a telescopic pipe, the released gas enters the second chamber, where it is completely burned and mixed with cold air, which is pumped up by the fan.

This is a continuous process that occurs until the fuel burns out completely. The temperature during such combustion is reached very high - about 1200 degrees.

As mentioned above, this boiler has two chambers: the main one is large and small. The fuel itself is placed in a large chamber. Its volume can reach 500 cubic meters.

Any solid fuel can act as a resource for combustion: sawdust, coal, firewood, pallets.

A constant air supply is carried out by a built-in fan. The advantage of this method is that solid fuel is consumed extremely slowly.

This significantly increases the efficiency of such a heater. Why does firewood burn out so slowly compared to a standard stove?

The bottom line is that only the top layer burns out, since air is blown by a fan from above. Moreover, the fan adds air only after the top layer has completely burned out.

There are many models on the market today that work on the same principle, but, depending on the dimensions, material of execution, additional options, have different efficiency and economy.

Universal TT boilers operate on absolutely any fuel, which will greatly simplify their operation for the owners. More budget option is a wood-fired TT long-burning boiler. It works exclusively on wood and cannot be loaded with any other fuel option.

Design feature

Any long-burning boiler is equipped with an impressive chamber where fuel is placed. The larger the boiler is equipped with a chamber, the more time the firewood will burn through.

Today you can find two technologies implemented in long-burning TT boilers that successfully compete with each other. These are Buleryan's principle and Stropuva's method.

Due to the high price of Stropuva and the complexity of the design, this method is not so popular in Russia. But according to the Buleryan method, craftsmen with great dedication design units for heating dachas and country houses.

The boiler according to the Buleryan method looks like this: a metal case, inside of which there are two chambers. In the lower chamber, fuel is burned, and in the second chamber, the gas coming through the tube from the first chamber is burned.

The door for loading fuel is located in the upper part of the boiler body, since the entire lower part is reserved for a large resource tab.

At the top of the boiler is a flue pipe, which is connected to the chimney. An ash chamber is built into the lower part, through which the boiler is cleaned.

One more nuance should be mentioned. In standard ovens, the ash pan acts as a blower through which the air necessary for combustion is blown. Here, the ash chamber is absolutely hermetic, since the air enters through the upper air chamber, which plays the role of a heat exchanger.

The supply of oxygen to the boiler is regulated by a damper located at the top of the air chamber. As the firewood burns, the fuel gradually settles and the distributor lowers. This ensures a continuous supply of oxygen.

With a new load of fuel, simply pull up, returning the dispenser to its original position. By the position of this lever, you can easily determine how much fuel is left in the boiler and when to carry out the next load.

Separately, it should be said about the environmental friendliness of this heating option. Due to the complete combustion of fuels and gases, carbon dioxide is practically not emitted into the atmosphere.

The main elements of the TT boiler:

1. Furnace chamber. This is the main element of any boiler and furnace where direct combustion of fuel takes place.
2. Gas combustion chamber. Hot gases from smoldering firewood come here.
3. Ashpit - here the ashes are collected. This unit must be systematically cleaned to keep the boiler in good technical condition.
4. A chimney is a node through which combustion products are removed to the outside.

All these nodes are enclosed in a steel case, which is made of sheet metal 5-6 mm thick.

Advantages and disadvantages

Due to the large dimensions, the complexity of the design scheme, it is rational to use such a unit for heating a large cottage. But for small dacha this option will not work, as it will not justify the economy.

pros

• high efficiency (about 95%);
• autonomy heating system;
• profitability;
• reliability and durability;
• high efficiency;
• fuel availability;
• environmentally friendly home heating option;
• versatility of fuel (coals, firewood, sawdust, pellets).

Minuses

• cumbersome design;
• under the device it is necessary to equip a special room;
• complexity of design and installation;
• the need for constant cleaning.

A long-burning boiler is not necessary to buy in ready-made, because its price is several times higher than conventional furnaces. Such a design can be done independently, if you have at least a little experience in construction and repair.

At homemade design, compared with the factory counterpart, there are a number of advantages:

• low cost;
• the ability to make the boiler universal for any type of fuel;
• the possibility of improving the design and adding power.

The only difficulty is giving a cylindrical shape to the boiler. It is very difficult to give such a shape to metal without a rolling machine.

But there is a good solution. You can use empty propane tanks or any pipe suitable diameter. Pipes with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm should be selected.

For a village and a small cottage, you can fold a small brick oven and enjoy its effectiveness. But for a large cottage, this option will be less practical, as it will require a large supply of firewood for the winter. Caring for a conventional stove, compared to a long-burning boiler, is much more difficult, and large temperature drops in rooms remote from the stove do not at all allow organizing a comfortable microclimate in the house.

If you don’t have enough money to create a full-fledged heating system for your home, or the construction of such a system itself is impractical, it would be much more reasonable in this situation to make a solid fuel boiler for long burning with your own hands and not worry about its safety and aesthetic appearance.

For the operation of a TT boiler, the diagram of which we attach below, any solid fuel is suitable:

• hard and brown coal;
• anthracite;
• firewood;
• wood pellets;
• briquettes;
• sawdust;
• shale with peat.

There are no special instructions for the quality of fuel - any will do. But keep in mind that with a high moisture content of the fuel, the boiler will not give a high efficiency.

Security measures!

In order for such a boiler to really be an effective and economical heating option, it served long service and did not cause burns or accidents in the house, consider the main points of fire safety.

1. It is necessary to monitor the temperature in the system and prevent it from overheating.
2. A shut-off valve must not be installed on the pipeline.
3. Do not keep flammable objects near the boiler.
4. It is necessary to monitor the ventilation in the room.
5. For the boiler you need to equip a separate room.

At the stage preparatory work, consider the place where the boiler will be installed.

Ideally, of course, equip a separate boiler room, because the operation of a long-burning TT boiler is somewhat different from the usual brick oven on wood. And outwardly, this unit will not please the eye, and serve as a decoration for the house.

Given that solid fuel still creates a certain amount of dirt, it is better to install a long-burning TT boiler in a non-residential area.

But if its power is small (does not exceed 30-35 kW), then you can simply separate (zone) the main room from the "boiler room" using a brick wall.

Be sure to provide a ventilation system in the room where this boiler will be operated. On a constant basis, oxygen must be supplied from the street.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a solid fuel boiler for long burning with your own hands

The project of a solid fuel boiler is not an easy task and it will not be easy for a beginner to cope with it. Before starting construction, prepare drawings and sketches.

Also prepare the following tools:

1. Welding machine.
2. Tools for working with metal: pliers, grinding wheel.
3. Electric drill.
4. Building level and tape measure.
5. Marker.
6. Bulgarian.
7. Gloves and eye shield.

Attention! When performing work on the manufacture of a home-made TT boiler for long burning, you should be very careful and have at least basic practice with a welding machine. Be sure to use protection when working with welding.

From the materials you will need:

1. Empty gas bottle.
2. Sheet metal.
3. Asbestos cord.
4. Steel pipe with a cross section of 60 mm.
5. Metal hinges and handles.
6. Metal corner or blades.
7. Metal hood.
8. Basalt fiber for the passage of the chimney.

Before starting production, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video instruction on how to properly cut an empty gas cylinder, watch carefully and do not neglect safety measures!

Step 1. Marking the case and making the case

Using a marker, mark out the propane tank according to the dimensions of the drawing.

We make a small rectangular hole under the ash pan door, through which the boiler will be cleaned.

On the top of the balloon (along the entire perimeter) we draw a straight line to cut off the top.

Using a grinder, cut off the top along the line.

Now, in the center, we mark up the hole through which the pipe will pass. The hole, respectively, must be larger than the diameter of the pipe.

We cut a hole in the lid and weld on a metal ring that will tightly wrap around the pipe inserted into the cylinder.

We scald with a small sheet metal ring (4-5 mm) from the outer and inner sides the cylinder itself, on which the lid will be put on.

Step 2. Making a pipe

We take metal pipe length from 80 to 100 cm. If you do not use a standard propane cylinder, but weld the body for the boiler yourself, keep in mind that the height of the pipe should be 20-25 cm higher. After all, the essence of the work lies in the fact that as the fuel burns out, the pipe inside the body will go down.

We weld a metal circle to the pipe in its lower part - an air distributor.

We cut out fasteners from sheet metal, which we securely weld along the cut line of the cylinder, having previously laid an asbestos cord.

We fix the cut top so that it can be easily removed and put back. Make metal handles and, for ease of removal, also weld them to the body.

Step 3. Making a pipe to the chimney

We make markings on the cylinder in its upper part under the opening of the pipe.

We cut it out with a grinder and weld a pipe to remove combustion products.

Then a steel chimney pipe is connected to this branch pipe.

Step 4. Making an ash pan

According to the previously made markings for the ash chamber, we cut out a hole with the help of a grinder.

Separately, we make a door from sheet metal, which then will need to be screwed onto the brackets to the boiler body.

For convenience, you can make a small loop of thick wire or a reinforcing rod and screw it on as a handle.

Step 5. Preparing the air supply system

Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder body. Now draw a circle on the sheet metal, the diameter of which will be 5 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the balloon.

Using a grinder, cut out this circle.

We take a metal corner and cut it into 6 equal parts. The size of each part is equal to ½ of the diameter of the metal circle. For these purposes, an impeller with old blades is still well suited.

We weld metal circles in the same direction counterclockwise.

Step 6. Making a heat exchanger

We will make a heat exchanger designed according to the principle of a water circuit.

The size of this heat exchanger depends on your personal preferences. The larger it is, the more firewood you can put into it, which means that your boiler will have a longer burning time.

We cut out sheets from sheet metal 5-6 mm thick according to the scheme and weld them into a reliable case, inside which our gas cylinder will be located.

In the upper and lower parts of the body, we make branch pipes for connecting the supply and return lines.

In the central part, it is necessary to provide a hole through which fuel will be placed. We carry out the markup using a marker and cut it out with a grinder.

Step 7. General assembly and installation of the boiler

We fasten the ash pan door to the firebox.

We mark on the body of the heat exchanger the place where access to the ash pan will be made and cut it out with the help of a grinder. We also equip this opening with a door, which should close very tightly, blocking the access of oxygen to the body.

We insert the balloon inside the heat exchanger.

Using a welding machine, we weld the tank from above, as a result of which we get an absolutely hermetic case, inside of which there is a round firebox.

The essence of the TT long-burning boiler is the limited air supply from above, the function of which is performed by the oxygen supply system.

Fuel (firewood, coal, briquettes) should be loaded very tightly so that between the layers there is as much space as possible less space. If the firewood is different in size and it is impossible to pack them tightly, then between the layers you can fill it with wood chips or paper. The denser this solid fuel mixture is, the longer the firewood will burn.

• we take out the air supply restrictor from the case;
• We load fuel through a special door. It is better to pre-sprinkle the fuel with a special ignition fluid;
• put back the pipe limiter;
• inside the boiler we throw a lit match;
• after making sure that the fuel gradually begins to smolder, close the door tightly.

As the firewood burns out, the pipe inside the cylinder will gradually lower. By its height, you can always find out how much firewood you currently have inside.

Step 8. Kindling the boiler

You can make such a simple boiler right on the street in the warm season and test it outdoors by equipping it with a temporary chimney.

If the area of ​​the room exceeds 30-40 square meters, then you can weld two cylinders vertically, thus increasing the amount of firewood.

Step 9. Installing the boiler in the room

Be very serious about the fire safety of the boiler.

Under it, it is better to allocate a separate room or make a small fence from the residents to prevent burns. Still, the body of the boiler is metal and, unlike a stone stove, there is a high probability of getting burned.

Install in a place where there is a possibility of chimney outlets. There are two ways to remove the chimney: through the roof or.

Keep in mind that you must have direct access to the boiler, so nothing should stand at a distance of 50 cm next to it.

• Make a brick base for the boiler, laying solid bricks in 2 rows. Check the slope of the base with a building level.
• Observe the distance from the walls (regulated by SNiP). The distance from the furnace door to the wall must be at least 125 cm. The distance between the side parts and the back of the boiler and the wall must be at least 700 mm.
• If the walls in the house are made of wood or any other combustible material, it is necessary to protect the place where the boiler adjoins the ceilings with sheet metal or basalt. It is possible to use ordinary bricks as thermal insulation, which should be laid around the perimeter of the junction of the boiler to the wall.

In the place where the chimney exits through a wall or roof, it is also necessary to ensure proper thermal insulation. For this, basalt fiber is suitable, which should be tightly laid between the chimney and the ceiling.

• Place the boiler on the prepared foundation and again check with a level that the appliance is level. Keep in mind that the gas outlet pipe must be at the same level as the chimney pipe. If the line is not horizontal, then traction may be impaired during operation.

Step 10. We connect the boiler to the chimney.

Attention! It is imperative to lubricate the joints of the joints of all parts of the chimney with sealant.

We connect the chimney pipe to the TT pipe of the boiler. The diameter of the chimney must not be smaller than the TT socket of the boiler. If these parameters are not observed, then the throughput of the gas outlet will decrease.

As you can see, doing everything with your own hands you can get excellent, everything is not as difficult as it seemed at first glance! If you followed the instructions exactly, you will quickly appreciate high performance and the efficiency of a solid fuel boiler for long burning, which is several times superior to its competitors with the principle of an open flame. This will allow you to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house with minimal care.

DIY solid fuel boiler - video instruction

Of all the heating equipment that is used today in everyday life, the most long known solid fuel boilers. Due to the simplicity of design and principle of operation, the availability of fuel, units of this type are widely used. Today, for many residents of private houses in rural areas, this technique has become a kind of "lifesaver". Constantly rising price domestic gas, difficulties in obtaining permits for the installation of gas auxiliary heater contribute to the fact that a solid fuel boiler today, at least, has not lost its demand among the population living near forests - a source of firewood.

Solid fuel heating boilers: on the left - mounted and operating, on the right - without connection to the circuit, at the installation stage.

Today, there are two options to solve the problem of autonomous heating on solid fuel: buy a finished factory product or make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. The cost of a modern high-tech heating unit is quite high, but the price range is wide - from 3 to several tens of thousands of rubles, which makes the device affordable to a wide range of consumers.

With a certain technical training, a solid fuel boiler can be assembled independently, using the recommendations for the manufacture of models of these devices, the most popular for do-it-yourself mounting.

Solid fuel boiler concept

A self-made autonomous solid fuel boiler is, by and large, an ordinary stove installed in a barrel of water. The main task of such a device is to heat boiler water, which will be supplied to home heating radiators, using heat from the combustion of firewood or coal.

But such a device, tempting to self-manufacture due to primitiveness, will not be effective in terms of heating and not cost-effective due to high fuel consumption - the simplest boiler designs have an efficiency of only 10-15%.

Primitive water boiler solid fuel with economizer chimney

Important! The operation of a solid fuel boiler depends on the quality of the draft and, accordingly, supply ventilation. Even a well-manufactured boiler will not be able to provide efficient space heating if the ventilation is not arranged accordingly.

Home-made boilers are assembled not only from metal, but also assembled from brick. Brick devices are usually built in country houses where higher requirements are imposed on the aesthetics of the installed equipment than in utility or technical premises.

Metal boilers are the most simple devices, the manufacture of which allows the use of improvised materials and is possible with the help of available tools. But it does not follow from this that their production and installation can be performed without, at a minimum, sketches of blanks and assemblies, as well as a well-developed technology - a sequence, methods for performing individual stages of preparatory and basic work.

Choosing the design of the heating boiler

Furnaces for heating and solid fuel boilers, with similar combustion processes, differ in functionality. A heating boiler, unlike a stove, must not only heat the room at the installation site by burning wood or coal, but also supply the heating circuit with heated coolant. But to perform the second task, it is not enough to place a heat exchanger (a section of the heating circuit) in the furnace - it is also necessary to ensure the continuity of fuel combustion and uniform circulation of the coolant through this coil.

Pipe heat exchanger of a solid fuel boiler made of refractory bricks

What design of the boiler to choose to make it easier to make it yourself, what difficulties will you encounter in the process of work? These questions can be answered at the design stage. Drawings of home-made solid fuel boilers give a sufficient idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat this or that design looks like, and what you should pay attention to during the manufacturing process.

An example of a schematic representation of a solid fuel boiler from the outside: front, side and rear views.

Each type of solid fuel boiler equipment has its own design features and manufacturing nuances. planning self-assembly heating unit, it is necessary to decide which design to give preference to - with the lower or upper (mine) method of combustion.

Units with lower combustion- this is equipment in which the door for loading firewood is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber, but the combustion of fuel occurs from below, as a result of which the upper layers of the bookmark move down under their own weight, and the afterburning of smoke occurs in the upper part. Depending on the model, the movement of air through the furnace occurs from the bottom up forcibly (fan) or naturally (draught), which leads to independence from the mains, but reduced efficiency and a smaller amount of fuel loaded.

Schematic sectional view of a solid fuel boiler with lower fuel combustion

In solid fuel boilers of a mine structure, firewood is loaded through a door, which is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber. Such units are equipped with forced draft, which is directed from top to bottom - it drives smoke to the lower part of the furnace, where it burns mixed with air, and along the way it heats up and additionally dries the fuel of the lower tiers.

Scheme of operation of a solid fuel heating boiler with an upper combustion method

A unit with a lower combustion method is more suitable for self-production, so when assembling it, you can do without a fan for forced draft.

Solid fuel steel boiler of lower combustion without finishing

Important! How harder design equipment, the higher the technological requirements for the quality of execution of its components, which should not have deviations from the calculated parameters. The assembly process of such a unit is no less responsible.

According to the method of combustion, solid fuel boilers can be designed for normal operation or operate with pyrolysis - the process of decomposition of solid fuel into two components and their subsequent separate combustion. Giving preference to the second, more complex, option, you will have to take into account the need to install a second combustion chamber, which will increase the dimensions of the heater and, accordingly, require more materials.

The choice of the type of heating equipment is largely determined by the type of solid fuel that will be supplied to the heating device. If you have a large amount of firewood on hand, it would be better if the boiler you made is designed for firewood. With greater availability of hard coal, another model will do. The duration of burning bookmarks, the quality of heating are determined by the type of solid fuel boiler, its power and design.

On a note: the combustion temperature of coal is much higher than that of firewood, therefore, the heat exchanger and the boiler body for coal are made of thicker steel. An alternative would be to build the body and combustion chamber of the boiler from refractory bricks.

If it is not possible to create the outer casing of the unit from steel of the required thickness, a brick solid fuel boiler will be a rational solution. Refractory brick lining will create a spacious, comfortable and high temperature resistant combustion chamber.

Construction of a combustion chamber from refractory bricks with placement inside the heat exchanger

The choice of a boiler with a design of acceptable complexity must be made after analyzing the technical performance and an objective assessment of one's competence and capabilities. If there is any doubt, in order to exclude the possibility of unjustified damage to the material, it is better to give preference to the unit of a simple design that is clear from the drawings - even such a solid fuel boiler is able to provide the house with heat in the cold season.

Basic requirements for the design of a homemade heater

In its classic form, the heating unit, from which home heating will work, consists of the following elements:

• combustion chamber (bunker) for burning firewood, coal, fuel briquettes;
• grates through which air mass is supplied to the combustion chamber;
• tubular heat exchanger or storage tank for boiler water;
• chimney for bringing out the products of combustion of fuel;

An important requirement that will have to be taken into account at the design stage of the boiler is the dimensions of the combustion chamber. The furnace of an autonomous solid fuel boiler should be spacious and roomy. The design of the combustion chamber is calculated in such a way that the fuel placed in it burns completely without additional mixing. Brick boilers are preferable in this regard, since brick has a lower thermal conductivity, which provides a higher combustion temperature in a ceramic furnace than in a metal unit.

The combustion chamber should be designed in such a way as to concentrate as much as possible thermal energy on heating the heat exchanger.

Solid fuel boiler steel firebox

Next, no less important aspect when designing heating equipment, is the heat exchanger of a solid fuel boiler. The efficiency of boiler equipment depends on the design of this element, the quality of the material and the performance. The name of the heat exchanger is determined by the material of its manufacture - cast iron or steel. The heat exchange coils of these units - tubular structures with a vertical or horizontal arrangement of pipes in everyday life are often called water jackets.

We will not consider cast-iron heat exchangers, since this is a cast structure, the manufacture of which is impossible at home. However, you can use ready-made cast iron assemblies, removed from old units, dismantled for some reason. Such a replacement is common when a solid fuel boiler is being upgraded or repaired.

For the manufacture of a steel heat exchanger, thick-walled pipes are used. The desired configuration of the pipe is made flexible under heating or using bends or half-bends of the appropriate diameter, connected to the fragments of the coil by electric welding.

Scheme of installation of a coil for a solid fuel unit traditional type will give a complete picture of how the heat exchanger should look like and in what position it is better to install it.

Sketch of one of the options for the location of the tube heat exchanger in the housing: side views

Step-by-step production of a solid fuel boiler. Subtleties and nuances

You will not be able to make the most economical home-made solid fuel boiler, but you can create a heating apparatus that is quite suitable for heating and hot water supply. The fact is that the assembly of industrial products is carried out on a high-precision industrial equipment from specially selected materials in compliance with technological parameters. At the heart of each factory model of the boiler are precise thermal calculations. The possibilities of working at home are incommensurably more modest than production ones, therefore, when choosing a model to be manufactured, one must proceed from existing realities, including one's own potential as an installer.

Tools and materials

Having a drawing and specification of the heating unit, you can decide on the list necessary tool. Do you want to make a large cauldron or are you planning to build a small one? heater for giving on solid fuel with your own hands, the list of devices will be approximately the same.

Tool kit for self-manufacturing of a solid fuel heating unit

To work, you will need the following tools and fixtures:

• welding machine;
• small grinder with cutting and grinding discs (safety glasses);
• electric drill with drills for metal;
• gas keys No. 1,2;
• a hammer;
• a set of open-end or box wrenches and screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• 90 degree angle.

The main material in the manufacture is steel, the thickness of which for the boiler must be at least 5 mm, for the grate - from 7 mm.

In addition, you will need:

• steel corner 50x50 - for the boiler frame;
• sheet stainless steel - if there is a storage tank in the design;
• steel thick-walled pipes with a diameter of 32-50 mm - for the manufacture of a coil heat exchanger.

A complete list of materials and their consumption is compiled in advance on the basis of technical drawings.

Housing and heat exchanger manufacturing

The boiler body, which often plays the role of a combustion chamber, is the basis of the entire structure. To reduce wall deformations under the influence of high temperature, the enclosing structures of the furnace are made two-layer with backfilling between the layers of dry sifted sand, which plays the role of a geometry fixer. The outer and inner shells of the furnace are made of frame, which also increases the rigidity of the structure. In addition, to increase the strength of the walls of the combustion chamber, the outside can be sheathed with a steel corner or a profile in the form of stiffeners.

Manufacture of a body of a solid fuel boiler by welding blanks from sheet steel

According to the drawing, two openings are cut out on the front wall with a grinder or a gas cutter - for the bunker door and the ash pan.

Advice! Before cutting sheet steel, it is necessary to mark future openings with small diameters (3-4 mm) at the corners of the holes - this will allow cutting with greater accuracy.

After cutting blanks from sheet steel and a profile for the body, you can begin to create a heat exchanger. We use chopped water pipes, which are connected by welding into a single sealed circuit. The main task is to create a hermetic flow fragment of maximum length to increase the heating area of ​​the pipe.

How to make a heat exchanger, correctly position the pipes and perform welding, tells the video brought to your attention.

Assembly

When all structural elements are ready, they begin assembly, which is best done at the installation site of the unit - sometimes dimensions and weight finished device do not allow it to be moved from the assembly site to the final location.

Most often, the boiler is installed on a specially constructed concrete foundation with the unit fastened by welding to embedded parts - anchors. Installation begins with the installation of the frame, after which it is equipped with components and sheathing sheets. All welded joints are made with chamfering and processing of welds - slag removal and grinding.

On a note: After assembling the body, a thorough visual check of its tightness is carried out, as a result of which additional welding of the seams is carried out.

Grids (steel grating) and a heat exchanger are installed in the finished housing, which is connected to the heating circuit by welding.

The body of a solid fuel boiler at the stage of installation of external stiffeners

Important! It is better to entrust the manufacture of a stainless steel storage tank with its insertion into the circuit to professionals, since working with this material requires special equipment and practical skills.

Upon completion of the assembly, for corrosion protection, the boiler is painted with two layers of heat-resistant paint with preliminary surface preparation.

Heat-resistant paint Ecoterra for coating surfaces exposed to high temperatures

A self-made heating boiler is distinguished by its durability and ease of maintenance, which consists in periodic cleaning of the furnace ash and maintenance of the chimney.

Conclusion

After the assembly is completed and the unit is completed with all the necessary elements, it is pressure tested with water under pressure, as a result of which defects are eliminated, and then the complex commissioning. Do not neglect the installation of a draft regulator, which will facilitate the operation of a solid fuel boiler in various weather conditions.

Solid fuel boilers are not only a way to provide autonomous heating at home, but also save on energy resources. Is it really so profitable to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands? Or is it better to buy a ready-made unit from a reliable manufacturer? Let's figure it out together!

Ready-made solutions - which boiler to buy?

Frankly, a home-made long-burning boiler is unlikely to be cheaper than purchasing a ready-made version. You need to take into account not only the cost of materials, but also the time spent on creating the unit with your own hands. Plus, few people manage to do everything right on the first try - errors will certainly pop up during operation that need to be corrected, which is fraught with new costs.

It must also be understood that many of the technologies used by boiler manufacturers are inaccessible to ordinary people and there is nothing to replace them with. For example, in everyday life without expensive equipment, it is impossible to repeat the powder coating of boilers, which significantly extends their service life. The accuracy of parts, the quality of welding - all this differs significantly in home-made and purchased versions. For these reasons, the majority prefers to purchase ready-made options, moreover, there are more than enough offers today.

Today, long-burning boilers of Lithuanian production Stropuva (Stropuva) or Candles (Kandles) have proven themselves to be excellent - these units are able to work on one load of firewood up to 40 hours, and when loaded with coal - all 5 days. Wood-burning models are marked with the letter S, while coal-fired models are marked with the letter U. The efficiency of such boilers is up to 90%. In the design of these units, burning goes from top to bottom - the fuel burns according to the principle of a candle. Due to the fact that the flame is from above, firewood and coal burn through much better, so you will have to clean the boiler much less often.

Alternative options - gas generation and pellets

Long-burning boilers include and, as well as boilers operating on pellets. Pyrolysis (gas generating) boilers are loaded with firewood every 8–12 hours. At first, the starting ignition of the fuel takes place so that the temperature inside the boiler reaches 800 ° C. At this temperature, gas generation becomes possible - with the help of valves, the desired mode is set, namely, the access of oxygen to burning wood is limited. As a result, wood gas is released, which burns in a special chamber, and only then charcoal is burned. Ash and soot are formed in a minimum amount. The efficiency of gas generating boilers is about 85%.

The main advantage of pyrolysis units is economical fuel consumption. Thereby heating season will cost you two to three times cheaper than usual - this is how the high cost of such devices pays off. However, another problem will have to be fought constantly - a wood-burning boiler of this type works effectively only on very dry fuel or clean coal.

Pellet boilers with automatic fuel supply can work indefinitely, the main thing is that there is the right amount of fuel nearby. The structure of such units practically does not differ from conventional solid fuel boilers, with the exception of automatic fuel supply. Household boilers have a container where pellets are poured - one load is enough for several days. In general, it will take about 20 minutes to service the unit a week - this is enough to occasionally take out ash and add fuel to the bunker.

General overview of affordable design boilers

A feature of the design of boilers with top combustion is the air supply to the combustion site using a telescopic pipe. Making such a wood-burning unit with your own hands is not an easy task even for experienced craftsmen. For this reason, in most cases, home-made solid fuel long-burning boilers have traditional lower combustion, and the duration of the unit is achieved due to the increased volume of fuel and the connection of automatic regulators, which can be purchased separately and installed on any boiler. Fuel is loaded into such a unit through the upper hatch, and the lower hatch is intended for arson, through which combustion products are also cleaned.

Air is supplied to the fuel chamber through the blower and the grate, with the help of the blower chamber door, the air supply and the combustion force are regulated. Depending on the design, the units are made of sheet steel with a thickness of 3-5 mm or from pipes with a diameter of at least 300 mm. Regular steel is suitable, but it is better to purchase heat-resistant steel or use a double layer of material. The role of the heat exchanger can be performed by both the walls themselves and the registers, or a combination of both.

The main task when creating such a unit with your own hands is to ensure the largest area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact of the fuel with the surface of the heat exchanger, due to which the efficiency increases.

The simplicity of the design is ensured by the fact that the water circuit is in direct contact with the flame. However, it should be borne in mind that it will still fly into the chimney a large number of heat, so you can additionally create water heater. For its arrangement, two pipes of different diameters and some sheet steel are needed. The larger pipe will serve as a container for water, and the smaller pipe will act as a chimney and heating element.

Mine type - more difficult to do with your own hands, but different high efficiency. Such units consist of two chambers - the first serves as a compartment for loading fuel, and the second, located on the side, contains a heat exchanger. When the fuel is ignited in the adjacent chamber, the flame and hot gases enter the chamber with the register due to draft and heat the coolant inside the pipes. Since the smoke travels a long way from the place of combustion to the exit to the atmosphere, it almost completely gives off heat to the register.

Difficult but doable - burning fuel from top to bottom

Even using an ordinary match as an example, you yourself can see for yourself the efficiency of burning from top to bottom. A match in an upright position with a flame at the bottom generates heat, which is enough to heat the thermometer to 60 ° C. If the match is turned over, due to the long burning, the thermometer can be heated up to 120 ° C. On the scale of a heating boiler, this principle ensures uniform and long-term combustion of the fuel, however, in this case, a water jacket is required, which will cover the entire surface of the combustion chamber. Registers in such a design are not required, but their presence will add 5-10% to the overall efficiency of the boiler.

To make such a wood-burning boiler with your own hands, you will need a powerful grinder for cutting metal and another one for grinding. However, it is better to cut the metal when buying at a metal base, since when cutting with a grinder, there is a high probability of overheating the material at the cut point, which will make it too brittle. You also need a good welding machine. Choose sheet metal with a minimum thickness of 4 mm, preferably heat-resistant. You will also need several pipes, one with a diameter of 300 mm and a meter and a half or two long with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm and pipes with a diameter of 60 mm and 100 mm - the first for the air distributor, the second for the chimney.