Non-spill floor in the bath. How to make traditional pouring floors in a Russian bath - first-hand personal experience. Fastening the lag on the posts
It is not difficult to lay a pouring floor in a bath from boards. It is much more difficult to equip the underground for a good outflow of water from the building. Baths are usually built on a strip, columnar or pile foundation. For each type of foundation, the nuances of laying the floor are slightly different. Additionally, when arranging the underground, the type of soil on which the bath is built is taken into account.
Floor in the Russian bath
For a Russian bath, a pouring floor from a board is a simple and cost-effective solution. A feature of the arrangement of the floor covering is the presence of cracks. The board is not laid close, but with a small gap. Water during bathing leaves through cracks under a floor. Her further path from the bath depends on the arrangement of the hem.
The design of the pouring floor with lumber differs. When wood was cheap, thick boards were used. Lumber for flooring made from coniferous trees was considered popular. Larch served the longest. A thick board increased the life of the floor in conditions of increased dampness. Without repair, the bath could stand for more than 10 years. When the wooden structural elements rotted to a critical state, they were replaced with new ones. A bath from a wooden log house was propped up with jacks. The lower part of the walls was renewed by replacing 1-2 crowns. The floor, along with the lags, was laid new.
Lumber prices are high right now. Even once a decade, major floor repairs are expensive. However, new technologies have come to the aid of lovers of the Russian bath. Many special impregnations and varnishes have been developed that protect wood from rotting, mold formation, and destruction by grinder beetles. Due to the protective compositions, the life of the wood is increased. The poured floor board can now be used in thinner thicknesses, reducing material costs.
Important! Impregnations are produced on a chemical and organic basis. To avoid poisoning, the board in the steam room of the bath cannot be treated with compounds from the first group.
What should be good pouring floors
A feature of the pouring floor of the bath is the presence of gaps between the boards. The gap is left within 5-6 mm. It is undesirable to make smaller gaps, since over time they will quickly become clogged with dirt and soap. Large gaps are also not needed. Through them, heat will leave the bath, and cold air will enter the room.
The quality of the pouring floor depends on the arrangement of the underground. The bath has a small amount of water. Many owners, to simplify the organization of drains, equip drainage under the floor. An economically good option if the bath is on loose soil. The water flowing through the cracks of the pouring floor falls on the drainage cushion of sand and gravel, and then it is absorbed into the ground.
The disadvantage of the drainage drain is the accumulation of soap and dirt residues under the floor. Even with the most intensive absorption of water, dampness still remains under the floor for a long time. In such conditions, pathogenic bacteria multiply. The bath becomes a hotbed of infection.
A high-quality pouring floor is made from wood species that have excellent moisture resistance. It is optimal to give preference to larch. The board and all wooden structural elements must be treated with protective impregnations. Be sure to maintain the size of the cracks 5-6 mm. It is optimal to make the underground waterproofed from the ground, and drain the waste water outside the bath.
Shower floors for baths on columnar or pile foundations
For a bath, a columnar or pile foundation is considered the best foundation. The advantage of the design is not only in the cheapness and ease of construction. Pillars or piles are located at a certain interval. There is no closed ring, as is the case with concrete tape. Under the floor of the bath, an ideal ventilated space is formed. Even with the organization of a drainage drain on loose soil, the underground will dry out quickly. The floor board will not pull dampness, will last longer, there is no risk of rapid mold spread.
Important! With columnar or pile foundation drainage underground can be organized even on clay soil that does not absorb water well.
The bath is erected on a hill. Water should completely drain down the slopes and not stagnate in puddles under the pouring floor.
Logs are laid on poles located throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe underground space of the bath. The optimal distance between them is 80 cm. Hewn logs or a board with a section of 50x100 mm can act as lags. The pillars are erected square with a side size of 400x400 mm. Under each support, a hole is dug 600 mm deep. Sand 200 mm thick is poured at the bottom, filled with water, rammed.
The pillars are erected from cinder blocks, concrete blocks or poured monolithic from concrete mortar. All supports are checked by level so that they rise to the same height. When leveling, the pillars are lifted with a cement screed.
Attention! It is unacceptable to use red and silicate bricks for the construction of pillars. The material breaks down quickly. The pouring floors of the bath will sag over time.
The laying of the lag is performed half a month after the erection of the pillars. Between the wooden elements and the concrete surface of the support, waterproofing is laid from a double layer of roofing material. The edges of the lag are additionally fixed to the lower crown of the log cabin of the bath with mounting metal corners. After laying all the elements, a pouring floor board is nailed.
A pouring floor in a bath on a strip foundation
In the case of a strip foundation, the laying of the log is carried out in a similar way on the pillars. Difficulty arises with the organization of water drainage. The strip foundation forms a trough. In some places in the tape provide ventilation holes - vents. However, they are not enough for ideal ventilation of the underground space if a drainage drain is arranged. In baths with a strip foundation, it is desirable to divert water outside the log house.
A concrete screed is made under the pouring floor. A complex design option is based on maintaining a slope from all 4 walls to the center of the floor. At this point, a drain hole is located through which water is discharged through the pipeline outside the bath.
A simpler option also involves arranging a screed under the pouring floor of the bath, but the slope is made only towards one wall. It is better to direct the slope to where the stove will stand. In this place, the floor warms up better, moisture evaporates faster. The second advantage of one slope is the absence of the need to lay a drainage pipeline. On the section of the tape where the slope is made, a hole is punched a couple of centimeters below the level of the screed. A piece of pipe is inserted into the window to drain water, the gaps are blown out mounting foam or sealed with mortar. If the vents match the level of the screed, then water can also be drained through them.
Attention! The slope of the screed towards one wall is maintained at the rate of 1 cm / 1 running. m.
How to make a pouring floor in the bath
The flooring of boards for a pouring floor occurs according to the same principle for a bathhouse installed on any type of foundation. Differ preparatory work associated with the arrangement of the underground.
Preparatory work
The optimal height of the underground for a bath is 200 mm. The lower plane of the log should be at least 100 mm away from the surface of the screed or drainage embankment. To organize a drain under one slope, the ground is leveled so that a difference in height is obtained at opposite walls. The soil is rammed with the addition of clay. Instead of a screed, you can lay waterproofing from several layers of roofing material. A thick film or a special waterproofing membrane will do.
If a decision is made to take a difficult path, then first a sewer pipeline is laid. The drain is located in the center. The first base is poured with concrete, crushed stone is added and reinforced with a reinforcing mesh. The final layer is a concrete screed, which ideally adjusts the slopes to the drain from all four sides.
When arranging the drainage bottom, a drain pit is obtained under the bath. A recess is made about 40 cm. Sand is poured into the pit with the first layer, crushed stone is the second. The thickness of the drainage pad is at least 25 cm.
Step-by-step instruction
All work on the construction of a leaking floor in a bathhouse consists of the following steps:
- Support pillars made of blocks or a monolith are installed under the logs.
- Equip the drain according to the chosen option: concrete screed, roofing material waterproofing or drainage pit. If you organize a screed in the bath under the floor, then it is also desirable to cover it with waterproofing. Suitable ordinary bitumen or special mastics. Even concrete posts for laying logs are protected by waterproofing. They are simply smeared with bitumen.
- Two layers of roofing material are laid on top of the pillars. Logs are treated with protective impregnation. Ideally, they are additionally treated with bitumen. Each log is laid on a support, the ends are fixed with mounting angles to the crown of the log house.
- The board begins to be laid also after pre-treatment with protective impregnation. In the dressing room on the floor, a gap is not needed. Slots are left only in the washing room.
When laying pouring floors, boards can be nailed to the joists or removable shields can be made. If the first option is chosen, then a couple of boards at opposite walls and above the drain are left removable for the convenience of cleaning the underground space from dirt.
Three good advice will help get rid of dubious myths and simplify the laying of a pouring floor in the bath:
- There is an opinion that it is better not to nail the pouring floor board. After visiting the bath, they are placed on the edge for better drying. The error lies in the fact that, according to the law of ventilation, the amount of air leaving the room depends on the size of the inlet and outlet openings. The boards placed on the edge increase the supply gaps of the pouring floor. However, the air outlet remains the same. The boards will not dry out faster, as dampness remains inside the bath, and worries will only increase with their back laying.
- Removable shields in the bath are also not the best floor option. Drying of wood will be uneven. If ventilation is poorly established inside the bath, the poured floor panels will again draw dampness. The work is useless and labor intensive. It is optimal to organize effective ventilation under the floor in the bath.
- A smoothly sanded board is needed only for the front side of the pouring floor, so as not to pick up splinters. From the back side, grinding will not help to better reject moisture. Wood absorbs damp equally with a rough and smooth surface. Excessive grinding reduces the thickness of the boards, which reduces the strength and service life of the shower floor of the bath.
Good ventilation in the bath, as well as high-quality impregnation of wooden elements, is responsible for the durability of the pouring floor.
The video shows an example of arranging the floor in the bath:
Rotting floor protection
Protective impregnations for wooden floors are produced on an organic and chemical basis. Inside the dressing room or designated rest room, the temperature does not rise above + 27 ° C. Floors can be treated with any synthetic impregnation. Inside the steam room and washing room, there is a combination of high temperature with steam. Chemical fumes will be harmful to health. The floors in these rooms are treated with organic-based impregnations.
There are antiseptic impregnations based on fungicides. They protect wood well from fungus, but are toxic. Impregnation in the bath is used only on the condition that the wooden surface is supposed to be additionally painted.
Conclusion
The pouring floor in the bath requires careful arrangement. Violation of technology will lead to rotting of wood, plus unsanitary conditions, unhealthy.
Features of the design of pouring floors depending on the location of the bath, binding to the ground, a video on the organization of draining water with a water seal system, arranging the underground, installing a stove.
At first glance, it seems that even a schoolboy can handle the installation of a pouring floor in a bathhouse. Perhaps, if it turns out to be an intelligent student studying in high school and physically strong enough, then he will be able to master that volume construction works necessary during the construction of the building, work with soil and laying leaking flooring.
Construction of pouring floor
Floors with a leaky floor structure are considered traditional in the construction of a Russian bath. The floorboards are made from hardwood. When laying on logs, gaps are left between them through which water flows freely into the underground. In the underground, a pit is specially dug out and equipped for Wastewater, and with the help of additional ditches, it is diverted from under the foundation of the bath to the pit, from which they fall into sewer system.
When the soil is composed of sandy and sandy loamy soils, the pit device is impractical, since the water flows, breaking on the rubble and reaching the bottom of the pit, are absorbed by the sand and are independently diverted into natural drainage.
If the soil is composed of clay and loamy soils, a drainage system is necessary. To do this, a water intake structure is arranged inside the pit. In the underground for the reception of waste water, a collection is equipped. It could be a hole concrete walls and the base, or lined with bricks and smeared with a layer of clay. Before pouring rubble, a drain pipe is mounted in it, through which water will be drained into a pit located outside the walls of the bath. And from there, the waste water is discharged into the sewer network or the wastewater discharge system.
Drainage system
The device of the drainage system requires a lot of physical effort. At the very beginning of the work, the entire soil cover is removed under the entire base of the steam and washing compartments. A hole is dug in this place, at least 400 mm deep, and compacted tightly. A 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured into it, which is also compacted, and the pit is filled with rubble. Then, in a place designated and convenient for the owner, a pit is arranged.
Briefly about the main
Concrete screed. It is poured in such a way as to have a slight slope towards the intake structure. When building a large bath, logs should be laid. They are mounted on support posts, which can be made of brick. The posts are reinforced with concrete mortar using a reinforcing mesh and are covered with high-quality insulation. Supports can also be treated on all sides with a special mastic based on bitumen.
Log installation. As a log, bars are used, measuring 150x150 mm. The step between their laying is 0.5 m. Before laying the bars, they must be treated twice with special impregnations and an antiseptic. When laying the log on the support posts, it is necessary to lay a double layer of waterproofing at the point of contact.
Floorboard laying. The floorboards are laid in such a way that there is a gap between them - a gap, at least 5 mm wide. This distance will ensure the free outflow of water used in the bath. The tree is able to draw water in a damp room and swell. The gaps between the floorboards at a distance of 5-7 mm do not close, and do not provoke sewage blockage.
In order to build the correct floor of a leaking structure in the bathhouse, two basic rules must be observed:
The entire structure of the floor and the associated underground must be provided with a ventilation system.
Timely removed damp air from under the bathhouse underground will not allow the boardwalk to undergo premature decay processes, which will significantly extend its service life.
The installation of the pouring floor in the bath is started only after the underground drainage or drainage system is completed and the furnace is erected.
It is best to install the stove in such a way that it blows below the floor level. With such an arrangement of the furnace, the underground will always be provided with an influx of fresh air masses, therefore, damp air will not linger there.
There are positive aspects to laying floors of a pouring structure. Floorboards made of wood have a certain amount of appeal because they are warm and environmentally friendly.
The negative side can be attributed to the fact that they quickly enough, in comparison with the concrete base, become unusable and require full or partial replacement. Especially often this happens in a poorly ventilated underground area, or in the complete absence of a ventilation system.
Ivanovo Renovation Construction Construction Finishing Projects Design
Spill floor device. Tips from experienced bath attendants.Thank you. Absolutely, right. This is what I counted on, that my experience will be combined with the experience of others and together we will get a strong visual aid.
So let's write down other advantages.Now it is logical to tell what was done ten years ago, how it worked and what jambs got out. Then tell what was done to eliminate the latter.
Organization of the floor (as it was).
1. Floorboards lay the canvas to each other without gaps
2. At the end of the slope there is a gap along the entire length of the floorboard for water drainage. Slot with the possibility of closing. in cold weather.1. The floor was made in frame bath with the withdrawal of water outside the bath. The bath stands on pillars, has an underground space under all rooms.
2. At the beginning, a V-shaped draft floor was made with a slope to the outer wall of the bath from board 20. The boards were not impregnated with anything.
3. The subfloor was covered with roofing material with the organization of water outlet into a plastic pipe and further into dug gutters along the edge of the site. There are no drains or septic tanks. At the same time, the roofing material was raised along the walls by 30 cm and then covered with clapboard. Those. received a recessed waterproofed bathtub under the main floor.
4. The floorboards were made of edged pine slabs with a thickness of 10 to 15 cm, a width of 20-25 cm. They were impregnated several times with the Pinotex antiseptic. The floorboards lay and rested on the beams covered with roofing material of the subfloor, located along the perimeter of the soapstone. It was possible to raise several floorboards to dry the underground space.Causes of decay or what an autopsy showed.
1. The floorboards began to be raised for ventilation five years after the start of operation, when the understanding of the process came! They became putrid throughout their entire thickness, starting from the edges (to the places of support).
2. Raising and lowering heavy floorboards led to a breakthrough of the roofing material and water ingress onto the boards of the subfloor. Part of the water began to fall under the bath. This exacerbated the problem.
3. The central beam of the V-shaped floor, due to the settlement of the bathhouse and swelling of the soil, began to touch the ground with its lower end - it began to rot.
Conclusion: in general, the board under the subfloor, where it was dry, was perfectly preserved, it even remained white after almost 10 years of operation. This means that a dry board under the roofing material is not subject to decay.
Making a decision to reconstruct the floor, taking into account the shortcomings of 10 years of operation.
1. It was decided to leave the structure of the subfloor as before: V-shaped under the roofing material with a drain into the pipe. Only raise the roofing material higher along the wall under the lining and make it into two layers of coating with reinforcement in places where the floorboards touch. Reinforcement to produce a corner of aluminum 40X40.
2. Replace wooden floorboards with plastic window sills with stiffening ribs. In order to avoid deflection in the center, lay a galvanized support pipe to distribute the load.
Were bought: 4 2-meter window sills 50 cm wide and one 2-meter 30 cm wide. Total 2.3 m linear and 15 cm per drain.
For everything, 2,300 rubles were paid.
Shower floors are the simplest solution for flooring in traditional Russian baths. The fundamental difference between pouring floors and other types is that water leaves over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room through small cracks. The further path of the drained water depends on design solutions, we will talk about them below.
Previously, lumber was not considered a scarce and expensive material; during the construction of baths, thick boards and logs of coniferous wood were used. This choice of materials made it possible to guarantee a long service life of the bath, despite the very difficult conditions for wooden structures.
The bathhouses stood for several decades, the structures were rotten - the bathhouse was jacked up, one or two crowns were changed along with the floor coverings, and the building was again used for several decades.
Modern building technology allow us to achieve the same long service life of the bath with significantly less lumber. There is a wide variety of very effective impregnations that reliably protect wood from putrefactive processes.
Consider the technology of pouring floors for various designs of Russian baths.
Shower floors for baths on columnar or pile foundations
Quite common foundations for Russian baths, in terms of cost and performance, satisfy most developers. And for flooring and wooden structures, the underground is ideal. They provide the maximum possible natural ventilation, reduce the likelihood of developing fungal diseases of wood, etc.
Practical advice. During the arrangement of such foundations, take the necessary measures to ensure that the building area of the bath is on a slight elevation, this will ensure a quick drain of water outside the building. This is especially important on heavy clay soils. Avoid puddles of stagnant water under the bath.
Step 1. Calculation of quantity and preparation of materials. Measure the length and width of the steam room, find out its area. Use to cover edged boards 35÷40 mm thick, buy them with a small margin. In addition to the boards, you will need a baseboard and nails about 100 mm long.
Soak the boards with an antiseptic. Impregnate only dry lumber, work in a shady place and in calm weather. You need to soak at least two times.
Please note - the boards should absorb the antiseptic, and not dry it in the sun.
It is also necessary to process the floor beams or logs.
It is advisable to lay the floors along the beams, if they were not installed during the construction of the log house, you will have to lay them along the logs. To do this, you need to do preparatory work.
Between the lags and columns you need to put at least two layers of roofing material. After 10-14 days, you can lay the logs. The ends of the lag are fixed to the crowns of the frame with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Step 2 Cut all boards to size.
To avoid deformation, the length of the boards should be 1 ÷ 1.5 cm less than the size of the steam room. Before cutting the boards, check the dimensions of the bath, if the width of the room at the corners is not the same, then you will have to adjust each board separately. It is better to cut off with a hand electric saw. Before working with any electric tool, check its serviceability and the condition of the cutting element.
Step 3 The distance between the boards should be within one to one and a half millimeters, such a width of the slots is sufficient for the rapid descent of water, and small gaps minimize the negative impact of possible drafts. By the way, they should not be afraid, a large number of gaps over the entire area of the room does not allow too high a speed of air movement through them.
It is highly desirable to make the gaps the same throughout the floor, for this you should use a template. We recommend taking ordinary wooden rulers for these purposes. They fit perfectly in thickness, and the corners of the boards will not hurt. Place the rulers vertically along the edges of the board to be nailed, after fixing the first ruler, they are removed and installed between the next.
Between the floor boards during installation, place a ruler or other template
Start laying boards from the threshold, as a rule, there are shelves near the opposite wall, you can hide an uneven floorboard under it.
Step 4 Nail down. At least two nails are needed for each board, they should be nailed along the edges and only at a slight angle. In this position, the nail passes through several annual rings, which minimizes the risk of cracking the lumber.
Important. Floorboards, regardless of width, must be nailed with two nails to each log or beam. Otherwise, they will certainly warp over time, which causes great inconvenience during the adoption of bath procedures.
If the last board does not fit the tire, measure the exact dimensions and saw off the excess. That's all with the boards, you can proceed to the skirting boards.
Installation of floor skirting boards
The profile of the skirting boards does not matter, choose which one you like best. Skirting boards are nailed with nails 30 ÷ 40 millimeters long, specific values \u200b\u200bdepend on its thickness and width.
Step 1. Take measurements of the steam room around the perimeter. Skirting boards have a standard length of two meters, and most pairs are wider and longer. This means that the moldings will have to be joined. If in ordinary rooms uneven joints can be sealed with wood putty or colored sealant, then in the bath this method of eliminating errors cannot be used, the putty will quickly fall off. Try to make skirting joints in inconspicuous places: behind the stove, near water containers, under a shelf, etc. Of course, be extra careful when cutting skirting boards, the tool must be sharp and serviceable.
Step 2 Check the angles of the bath, they should all be exactly 90°. File the end of the skirting board at a 45° angle. For even sawing, use a factory miter box or make a fixture yourself.
We recommend sawing with a hacksaw for metal - the cut is much smoother. Always apply the left plinth to the miter box to the left, and the right plinth to the right to the side remote from you. Otherwise, instead of outer corner it will be internal and vice versa. If you rarely work with a chair, then we advise you to write on its sides where the left and right ceiling and floor skirting boards are to be installed on the outer and inner corners.
Video - How to join skirting boards
It is somewhat more difficult to cut the plinth if the angle of the steam room differs from the straight one. If you do not have enough experience, then we advise you to try to cut off any rails for the first time. Install them in the right place so that they rest against the walls. Mark with a pencil where the rails cross.
From these marks, draw straight lines to the corners, cut along the lines. Check what you got. Everything is correct - excellent, repeat the same operations with the plinth. A big gap appeared in the gley - think about where you made a mistake, repeat all the operations again, taking into account the error. It does not take much time and saves expensive material.
Step 3 Start nailing the baseboard from the corner of the bath, step back from the cut point 2 ÷ 3 centimeters, nail the nails at an angle at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 centimeters.
Step 4 In the same way, nail the baseboard on all sides of the steam room. Check their position, if necessary, remove burrs or lint with sandpaper. If there is a noticeable difference in height at the joints, then first remove them with a sharp chisel, and then correct them with a sandpaper.
That's all. In Russian baths, floors, as a rule, are not varnished or painted, but if you really want to, do a top coat. Just keep in mind that no matter how strong the coatings you use, they will peel off anyway - the operating conditions are too harsh.
Now let's look at how to make pouring floors in baths on a strip foundation.
If your bath is on sandstones - there are no problems, you can lay the drain floor in the manner described above. The sand will absorb all the water without any problems. If the soil under the bath is clayey or loamy, then preparatory work will have to be done. The fact is that the strip foundation forms a closed space under the steam room, the constant presence of water in it has a very negative effect on everything. wooden structures buildings. To drain water, a cement-sand screed should be made.
Preparatory work
Inspect the foundation, check for ventilation and technological holes in the tape.
Water can be drained into the ventilation holes only if they are located at the right distance from the upper plane of the foundation tape. This distance should be at least 20 centimeters. If the holes in your bath are located higher, then you will have to make a special one to drain the water.
What does the vast majority of articles on the web offer? Under the steam room, make a screed in the form of a funnel with the installation of a drain pipe in the middle. We suspect that this method of solving problems is advised to be used by those who have not done anything with their own hands. Why? Let's briefly consider this technology and point out its disadvantages.
- Along the perimeter of the steam room, you need to choose the ground with a smooth depression in the middle of the room, then pour sand in the same way. Disadvantages - a rather large amount of excavation, requiring care and numerous checks on the geometry of the recess.
- The drainage pipe must be installed in the funnel. The disadvantage is that you need to dig a separate trench under it, make sure that the proper slope is observed and that it exactly matches the existing hole in the foundation tape. To do this is not only difficult, but very difficult.
- Make a screed with an inclination towards the center of the funnel. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to perform work purely technologically in one day, you need to wait until the first half of the screed hardens and only then proceed to concreting the second half. But that's not all. We assure you that only true professionals can perform such work. If you saw a trowel only in the photo in the article, don't even start making a funnel-shaped screed for water drainage. And further. Whatever measures you take, a temporary gap in the laying of the screed in the middle of the funnel will definitely crack. Where the water will go is clear.
What do we offer? The screed under the pouring floor should prevent water from entering the ground and divert it beyond the perimeter of the bath underground. We offer an option to achieve this task with much less effort and with less loss of time. And yet, according to our algorithm, almost anyone can independently make a screed and drain water, the main thing is that there is a desire.
Our option is the screed under the pouring floor is flat with a slight slope to one of the walls of the bath, preferably in the direction where the stove is located. The temperature is higher and the water dries better. The slope of the screed is within one centimeter per linear meter; for a bath 4 meters wide, it is enough to make a slope of 4 ÷ 5 centimeters.
Advantages of the method:
- there is no need to engage in time-consuming and complex from a construction point of view work on laying a branch pipe. According to the simplified technology, you first need to make the entire screed, then at the lowest point near the wall, make a hole in the tape just below the level of the screed. Insert a piece of pipe into the hole and seal the gap between the pipe and the hole made in the foundation on both sides with mortar;
- significantly reduced the volume of earthworks. It is only necessary to transfer a small layer of earth from one wall to the opposite and level it with a shovel. But this can only be done when there is a special vibrating plate or a margin of time for natural shrinkage. Of course, then a sand cushion is poured and rammed. Less work?
It is on this simple variant of preparing the underground for the pouring floor that we will stop.
Step-by-step instruction
Step, No. Description of workIllustrations| Step 1 | Decide on a specific outlet for water. It is desirable that it be located behind the stove. But this is not always possible - the water must come out from the side of the bathhouse opposite to the facade or into a special storage tank. Structurally, it can be difficult to meet two conditions at the same time. | |
| Step 2 | With a shovel, make a slope of the area under the steam room, gradually remove the ground in small layers. Using a hydraulic level, check the slope, it should be approximately one centimeter per meter of length. Prepare the site taking into account that a sand cushion up to ten centimeters thick will be poured on top. | |
| Step 3 | Pour in the sand and tamp it down. Level the site with a long rail at an angle to the place where the water exits. | |
| Step 4 | Install screed beacons. The thickness of the screed is no more than five centimeters, take slats of the same width and install them on a sandy base. In several places, fix the slats with mortar on both sides. Check the position of the rails with a level and rope. For these works, there is no need to observe high accuracy, the main thing is that the water drains from the surface. Problem areas can be easily corrected later. If you are in a hurry, then sprinkle the mortar at the rails with dry cement and after a few seconds remove the damp cement from the mortar. Repeat this operation two or three times. Such simple actions will allow you to work with slats in a few minutes, their stability will be quite enough. |
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| Step 5 | Screed with a semi-dry mortar. To make it, you need to reduce the amount of water, while compressing the solution in your hand through your fingers, water should not appear and at the same time the shape should be preserved. | |
| Step 6 | Align the solution with a rail, remove small depressions and elevations with grout. In this way, continue to work over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe steam room. |
A semi-dry solution allows you to continue working the next day. Wooden slats-beacons can not be removed, they will serve as additional fuses for the appearance of cracks in the screed.
Now it remains to make a puncher in the foundation tape through hole to drain water. Make it 2 ÷ 3 centimeters below the level of the screed, the hole should have a slight slope outward. Insert the pipe into the hole, check its position and carefully seal the gap between the pipe and the hole with mortar.
The next day, check the base for the quality of the drain. Pour a bucket of water at the highest point and watch how it leaves and where it lingers. If necessary, correct the plane of the screed, eliminate the places of stagnant water. At the drain section of the foundation, make a small groove with a slope towards the pipe.
Practical advice. In order for a fresh mortar to have good adhesion with an old one, there is no need to use expensive mastics. Moisturize Well trouble spot water, pour a thin layer of cement and brush it thoroughly over the surface with a brush.
That's all, now you can lay the flooring according to the above technology.
1. Do not nail the boards under the shelves; after taking bath procedures, put them on edge
At first glance, it may seem that there is a logic, drying should accelerate. But it's not. To verify this, it is worth remembering about ventilation, it does not matter what type it is: forced or natural. The amount of air removed from the room depends on the size of the inlet and outlet openings. By removing a few floorboards under a shelf, it seems that we are increasing the inlet, and rightly so. Only the outlet remains the same, how much air came out through it, so much will continue to come out.
The total area of all the slots in the floor is always greater than the area of the outlet air, it makes no sense to take out several boards. This will not improve the drying of the floor, but on the contrary, worsen it. If in the normal state the air flowed evenly through the cracks over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room and dried the entire floor area, now it will flow mainly through the expanded hole, most of the flooring will dry much more slowly.
2. Arrange flooring from separate boards and take them out to dry after the bath
And we do not recommend doing this, except for a headache and vain work, there will be no result. Again, due to the fact that the drying of the shields will be very uneven. You should not invent a bicycle, believe the centuries-old experience of our ancestors, do normal natural ventilation of the underground and high-quality ventilation of the room.
3. Boards need to be planed on both sides
Materials for floor coverings must be passed through a thickness gauge, they must be smooth on both sides - smooth boards absorb moisture less.
Now what's really going on. Planed and unplaned boards get wet equally in thickness, there is no wetting of the pile negative impact does not render. And during drying, the pile, on the contrary, accelerates the drying time of lumber due to a significant increase in the total surface area. Further, capillary phenomena are triggered, the roughness sucks moisture out of the body of the board faster and accelerates its drying. Planing on both sides does not improve the drying process, but only reduces the thickness of the boards. Do not convert commercial wood into shavings, do not waste time and money in vain.
Video - Bath and floors in it
Video - About the correct arrangement of the Russian bath
The problem of heavy steam, constantly cold floors, rotting floorboards and mustiness in the steam room is familiar to many attendants firsthand. In fact, all this is solvable, especially at the construction stage. A good effect is the use of a pouring floor (with slots), heated and dried through ventilation. I will try to explain how I managed to implement this technical solution in a frame bath on screw piles.
How does a ventilated poured floor work?
The pouring floor is a classic, there is nothing complicated. The boards are not stacked close to each other, but with small gaps. Water that falls on the floor seeps through these cracks into the underground. She stays there for a while. If the subfloor is not ventilated and remains cold, the smell of dampness appears, and gradually the floorboards begin to rot. In addition, there is heavy steam, stuffiness, there is a feeling that there is nothing to breathe. Pleasant little.
Of course, it is worth noting that such a nuisance is common, both for pouring floors and for ordinary wooden floors with floorboards laid end-to-end. The tree, whatever one may say, absorbs moisture and from this begins to rot.
The problem can be solved by including the floor and subfloor in the general ventilation system of bath rooms. That is, you need to make sure that warm air from the steam room can get into the underground, warm up and dry the wet floorboards. Due to the design of pouring floors (the presence of slots), it is quite easy to “force” hot air to descend into the underground and do your job there.
In my bath, this is implemented as follows:
- in the sink and steam room, a pouring floor is used with a common subfloor in the form of a pallet;
- the walls of the sink and the steam room are isolated and separated by a hermetic partition;
- the stove is embedded in the partition between the sink and the steam room, the firebox is carried out from the side of the sink;
- air for the furnace is taken only from the sink (with doors and windows closed);
- outside air is supplied to the bath through the ventilation duct located under the convectors of the furnace; air access to the steam room through other channels is not provided.
When the furnace is fired and draft occurs, the external air enters the convector through the ventilation duct, warms up and rises up - under the ceiling of the steam room. Gradually, it cools down, sinks and, under the action of traction, passes through the cracks of the pouring floor into the underground.
I repeat that the subfloor in my version of the floor is a sealed tray and the heated air, having entered it, does not dissipate, but exits through the floor cracks into the washing room. Then it enters the furnace furnace. Thus, the air moves along the circuit, blowing and warming the underground.
The following photos clearly illustrate the technological solutions for the described ventilation scheme:
Partition between the sink and the steam room, the oven is built into the partition
Under the stove there is a ventilation duct through which outside air is accessed to the convector
Ventilation duct openings in grillage
There is nothing difficult in this. It is enough to install the stove between the sink and the steam room, arrange a ventilation channel between the lags to supply air to the stove convectors. And pouring floors with a sealed underground will be included in the ventilation system. Now I have come to the most important issue, to which my photo report is devoted, - the issue of installing hot pouring floors.
Step by step construction process
Step 1. Installation of grillage and log
I started the flooring after the screw piles were screwed in and poured with concrete, serving as the foundation for my bathhouse under construction. The height of the posts above the ground is 50 cm, only 10 pieces.
The first step is the installation of the grillage. I made it from horizontal beds (boards 200x50 mm) that go into the internal space between piles and vertically installed boards 150x50 mm. The boards of the beam are fastened with self-tapping screws and nailed. The grillage is installed on piles and bolted to them with anchor bolts.
The logs are laid on the beds, pulled together through the vertical boards of the grillage with self-tapping screws and nailed with 100 mm nails.
All boards are antiseptic HMF BF. According to the project, a polycarbonate pallet will be pushed under the grillage and screwed to the beds.
Step #2. Ventilation device
To ensure air supply to the stove convector, a ventilation duct was formed in two interlag gaps (under the stove). To do this, I drilled holes in the grillage board, closed the opening between the lags with crossbars, hemmed the OSB sheet from the bottom, and smeared the seams with sealant.
Holes in the grillage board - for air access to the ventilation duct
Logs under the bottom of the furnace, forming the frame of the ventilation duct
I made a double cover for the ventilation duct, also from OSB. In the first part of the lid (it is permanently installed, not removed), I cut out holes that will be placed under the bottom of the furnace. Covered them with small metal mesh– to protect against dust and dirt.
I did not fix the second part of the cover with anything, it can be removed to clean the ventilation duct if necessary. The joint was sealed with sanitary tape. On top of the cover I put two LSU plates with cut out windows so that they coincided with the holes in the cover of the ventilation duct. All seams were covered with sealant. As a result, I got a ventilation duct with thermal protection.
The cover for the ventilation duct is made double with two holes through which air will enter the furnace convector
Magnesium glass sheet (SML) is a non-combustible material with excellent thermal insulation properties.
Outside, I put an anemostat on the ventilation duct holes in order to be able to block access to the duct (draught reduction, insect protection). I also installed a supply fan to increase the flow of fresh air.
Anemostat allows you to open and close the ventilation duct as needed
The supply fan allows you to increase the flow of outside air into the steam room
Step #3 Pallet assembly
Let me remind you that my pouring floor design consists of two parts - the floor itself (floorboards on logs) and a sealed pallet that slides under the grillage.
I'll start with the pallet. It is made up of a wooden contour (board) and a polycarbonate bottom with a drain. The form of the pallet is the simplest, providing for the slope of the body boards to the right corner of the grillage. There goes the drain.
The body is knocked together from boards 150x50 mm, treated with an antiseptic HMF BF.
Bottom material - polycarbonate used for greenhouses, 4 mm thick. I don’t worry about it, it is one of the most reliable and durable engineering plastics. Polycarbonate is screwed to the body boards with self-tapping bugs. The places where the hats with polycarbonate fit are protected with sanitary tape.
Polycarbonate sheet screwed to wooden case pallet
So that the polycarbonate does not sag, the bottom is reinforced with wooden slats.
Reiki will not allow the polycarbonate bottom to sag and crack under its own weight and the weight of water
The drain point is lined from below with a triangular overlay from OSB. All seams, joints are smeared with sealant.
The finished pallet is pushed under the grillage, lubricated with sealant, jacked up and bolted to the boards with plumbing bolts. The joints are sealed with sealant.
The tray turned out to be very airtight, the water leaves only through the drain. When the drain is clogged (with soap, small debris), then the water is in the pan, as in a trough. This necessitates checking the condition of the sump and cleaning the drain as needed.
For the ventilated floor scheme to work, it is not necessary to make a special pallet, like mine. The main thing is that the underground is airtight.
For example, concrete when using a strip foundation. Then the walls of the foundation will become the walls of the underground. But! The vents will have to be plugged during the heating of the bath, otherwise, instead of heating the floor, you can get condensation on the surfaces of the subfloor.
Step #4 Floorboard laying
I decided to use dry planed boards as floorboards. He laid them on the logs, left the cracks. I didn’t fix the boards with anything, I just laid them out and that’s it - good, they are heavy, so they practically don’t “walk”. This solution helps me to simplify the maintenance and cleaning of the pallet. After visiting the bath, the boards are removed, placed on edge and dried. The tray can be washed and the drain cleaned.
The floor boards are laid with gaps - for water drainage and free air circulation
Hot pouring floor in the steam room - worthy decision problems of heavy steam and stale air in the bath
results
As a result, the floors in my bath are always warm and dry. And yet - light steam and quick heating of all surfaces.
According to the climate in the bath there is the following:
- With the doors closed and the furnace burning, the temperature on the shelf rises to 45 ° C in 10-15 minutes (provided that the bath is preheated slightly with open doors up to a shelf temperature of 25°C).
- After an hour of bathing procedures, the temperature on the shelf is about 60°C, the floorboards are heated up to 50°C. The floor becomes pleasantly warm, almost hot, as do the walls with the shelf.
- The floor in the steam room dries almost instantly, and in the washing area - in a few hours.
- It is easy to breathe in the steam room, as fresh air is supplied (which is immediately heated by the stove) through the ventilation duct.
- There is no need for frequent ventilation.
- No musty smell.
- You feel that the air is drier than in the old Russian baths, but, of course, not to the same extent as in the sauna. Raising the humidity is simple - you need to add water to the heater.
There are also some drawbacks, but they are minor, at least for me. Firstly, the efficiency of the bath is somewhat reduced, since fresh air is constantly heated, the heated portion is discharged into the street. Secondly, various soap accessories and shampoos are very hot on the hot floor. You need to look for another place for them or take them out of the steam room during a particularly intense soar.
In general, I like my bath. Warming up in the shortest possible time, fresh air, warm dry floors. The problem of mustiness, rotting floorboards and cold floors is completely solved.
Floor in the washing bath: types and installation
Competent organization of the floor in the washing department of the bath is the key to its long and uninterrupted operation. Read all about the types of floors, their installation and the most common mistakes in our article.
- Wooden floor installation
- Types of wooden floor
- non-drip floor
- Floor protection from water
- Arrangement errors
Washing (sink, washing) - the main room in any Russian bath. It is in it that visitors spend most of their time between short runs to the steam room. In the washing room, water is constantly pouring in a significant amount, which means that it must be equipped to the highest standard. Maximum attention should be paid to the floors. Throughout the year, they are exposed to aggressive moisture and strong temperature changes. Depending on the choice of the type of floor and the quality of its installation, the washing room will be either warm and comfortable, or cold and uncomfortable.
Features of the floor in the washing bath
Any little thing in the arrangement of the washing room should be carefully considered. There is a list of features that are specific to this zone in the bath. Here the floor is given the utmost attention, as excessive moisture constantly exposes it to rapid decay. In addition to moisture, the floor in the washing room is constantly affected by sharp global temperature changes.
In this regard, the floors must fully comply with all the requirements put forward to them:
- Dry quickly;
- Resist sharp thermal surges;
- Easy to pass air;
- Have an acceptable coating temperature;
- Do not create drafts;
- Have adequate ventilation.
Installation of a concrete floor in a washing bath
Often, the floors in the bath are equipped with a concrete screed, since the installation of such a floor is considered the fastest and most hassle-free. The only difficulty in such a case is the organization of the drain. In a washing bath, a concrete floor can be arranged in three common ways: screed on the ground, on a wooden floor, on a concrete floor. Any of these methods has a place to be, but at the same time it has some more or less significant drawbacks.Traditional floor screed in the washroom
Traditionally, the concrete floor in the washing room of the bath is arranged as follows:
- First of all, it is necessary to carefully compact the soil.
- Then pour a layer of gravel, 15 cm thick. Broken brick or crushed stone can be used instead. Thus, a ready-made basis for the first layer of the screed is obtained.
- Pour the first layer of concrete. Remember that unlike wood floors, in concrete floors, the angle of inclination is formed already at the initial stages.
- In rooms with small area the screed is poured in one step. If the area is large-scale, wooden guides are laid on the floor, and then it is filled with the resulting stripes. In any case, the concrete floor can be called the strongest, most durable and practical option.
- Most milestone in the installation of a concrete floor - the product of an insulating layer. An insulating pillow is essential, because it protects the floor from freezing during the cold season and, accordingly, saves heating resources. Therefore, after the first layer of the screed has completely hardened, the floor is covered with a layer of expanded clay no thinner than 7 cm.
- Metal reinforcement is laid on top - a reinforcing mesh to enhance rigidity and strength.
- After that, lay the next layer of screed and carefully align it with the rule.
- A well-leveled screed will work great as a top coat. If you want to give the floor more aesthetics, you can cover it with beautiful non-slip tiles.
Warm floor in the washing department of the bath
Despite a decent layer of insulation, a concrete floor will never be pleasant enough to the touch. The cold concrete surface in the winter season often annoys the owners of the bath. In order to eliminate this drawback, the "warm floor" system is used. As a rule, electric, water or infrared heating is placed under the finishing layer.
For the washing area, the device of a system of warm water floors, powered by a heating device for the general supply of water in the bath room, is optimally suited. Installing a water floor is not much different from laying an electric one. The only difference is the thickness, commensurate with the height of the pipes being laid.
Recently, solid flooring with a 3D image has been increasingly used, which is ideal for washing baths.
The floor over a concrete floor is the least common, since it involves the use of concrete slabs. This option is not very popular in the construction of small buildings.
Installation of a wooden floor in a washing bath
Do-it-yourself wooden floor in a washing bath is being equipped more and more often due to its many advantages, such as ease of installation, attractive appearance, aesthetics and a special unique smell that wood gives off when heated.Types of wooden floor for the washing room
There are two popular types of wood floors:
- Non-leaking. Structures made of tightly laid boards with a certain angle of inclination, which contributes to the flow of water into a special hole.
- Leaking. Covering consisting of boards laid with gaps to drain water.
Note! The wooden floor in the washing bath must be laid at an angle for the natural flow of water. Ideally, the slope should be in two directions from the center.
Wooden non-spill floor for a washing bath
This design is not removable, therefore, before starting the installation of a wooden floor in the washing department, it is necessary to organize ventilation system. The base under the wooden non-drip floor should be mounted with a slight slope for the natural flow of water. It is also necessary to equip a water receiver and a ditch for it to go into the sewer.
Installation of a wooden non-leaking drain is carried out in several stages:
- Logs are mounted on upper part foundation.
- Waterproofing is laid on top, carefully sealed with sealant.
- Layers of insulation are tightly laid between the lags.
- On the insulating layer, waterproofing and a vapor barrier film are re-laid.
- The next layer prepares a subfloor with a slope for drainage in the right direction.
- The finished draft floor is covered with a continuous layer of polyethylene. It turns out a design that looks like a huge container with a ladder for water care.
- At the end, the top layer of a wooden non-drip floor is mounted.
Wooden pouring floor in the washing department of the bath
Regardless of the type of foundation (tape, pile, columnar, etc.), a pouring wooden floor can be installed by hand. This design is quite simple and does not require special construction and repair skills. At the beginning, a concrete base is created, on which logs are attached to hold the plank rough floor. The boards are laid with a distance of 6-8 mm for an unhindered flow of water into the receiver. From the water intake underground, all water descends through a pipe into the sewer.
In most cases, pouring floors are removable. At the end of the procedures, the structure is removed and taken out to dry. And since this type of floor is completely impossible to insulate, it is used only for those baths that are used exclusively in the warm season.
One more significant drawback of such floors can be distinguished: the top flooring quickly loses its operational properties, since protection against moisture does not apply to it. In this way, wooden floor have to be replaced from time to time. It is equally important to avoid the formation of a draft through the pouring floor. To do this, the underground and the drain must be organized in the right way.
Arrangement of wooden floors of pouring type is carried out as follows:
- First, determine the type of soil under the washing compartment. If the earth is loose, dig a hole no deeper than 0.5 m.
- The bottom and edges of the pit are tightly rammed and covered with a mixture of fine gravel, sand and gravel. The layer thickness should exceed 2-3 cm. Thus, a filter for waste water is organized.
- For clayey and swampy soil, a hydraulic structure of the drainage system is created: they dig under the washing pit, from which a pipe for draining water is laid in the direction of the sewer under a slope.
- The next step is to install logs, on which the wooden plank structure is attached.
Protecting the floor in the washing bath from water and dampness
A bath is a zone for which moisture, steam and dampness are quite natural things. Therefore, waterproofing in such a room is very necessary and important. Thermal insulation materials laid only on a layer of waterproofing. This way they can last longer.
In addition, special antiseptic treatment with various means of protection is required. Otherwise, the floors will forever make friends with fungal infections, especially if they are mounted from wood. Any underground space, partitions, boards, logs must certainly be treated with a reliable antiseptic and moisture-repellent composition, which are easy to find in any building materials store. Ideally, the treatment procedure should be carried out at least 2-3 times after a few hours.
If, for certain reasons, at the stage of construction and arrangement of the bath, the processing and installation of waterproofing was not carried out, a number of actions can be taken to help prevent the deplorable damage caused by dampness and moisture:
- Any wooden floor components must be carefully dismantled and left in the sun until completely dry.
- Then all the places that have undergone decay should be cut off, and the nearby ones should be cleaned.
- After that, you need to treat all the elements with antiseptic agents and dry them again.
- In the end, it is worth waxing or water-repellent each board and installing them in their places.
Mistakes in arranging the floor for the washing department in the bath
Equipping the floor in the washing department of the bath, you can not miss the flaws or oversights. Subsequently, they will lead to the need for dismantling and alterations. If the recommendations are not followed, novice masters run the risk of making a number of mistakes.
Some of them are more common than others:
- Saving money is not allowed insulating materials. It is not recommended to lay too thin a layer of thermal insulation or replace the vapor barrier membrane film with ordinary polyethylene.
- We must not forget about the extremely important layer of vapor barrier. You can't do without it.
- It is unacceptable to finish the floors with a washing smooth tiles. Such material in a company with high humidity may cause unwanted falls.
- It is forbidden to use any plastic components in the installation and finishing of washing floors.
- The lack of a ventilation system is a big unacceptable mistake, which entails negative consequences for the entire room.
Be that as it may, everyone can make mistakes, especially in such a complex and labor-intensive process. The main thing is to recognize and correct them in time. In this case, the floor in the washing room will be reliable, durable, durable and safe. Author: TutKnow.ru editors
Shower floors in the bath
I always wanted to build a bathhouse, I read a lot of literature, but I didn’t quite understand what pouring floors are, why they are needed, what they are, how to lay them and take care of them.
Stepan (17.01.2012)
You are doing the right thing by deciding to find out all the necessary information about the construction of the bath in advance. This will help you not only stay informed, but also navigate necessary materials and expected work. In addition, if you understand the features of construction, then you can always control the workers, notice and point out to them the disadvantages, and warn them against making mistakes in time. For competent construction, you should know a lot of features of the construction of the building. So, it will not be superfluous to learn about the features of laying screed and flooring.
Shower floors are usually laid in a traditional Russian bath. They are made from wooden floorboards, which are laid on wooden logs. Gaps are left between the floorboards through which water flows under the bath, that is, into a hole specially dug for this purpose under the bath or next to it.
Among the advantages, it should be noted that it is pleasant to walk on a tree, it is not cold, natural. With proper operation and regular ventilation, a wooden floor will remain aesthetically attractive and comfortable for use for a long time. However, many today are inclined to believe that it is better not to make the floors pouring, since it is rather troublesome to constantly change them, and there is a great risk of ruining the lower level of the bath, which is difficult to restore later. The main disadvantages of such a floor are considered to be their rapid deterioration, especially if the underground is poorly ventilated.
If you have the opportunity to conduct communications, then it is better to put a classic insulated slab with porcelain stoneware coating, you can even heated it. However, if this is not possible, and your bath is “independent” of modern amenities, then you need to do the following - create an “eternal” pouring floor. The main task is to eliminate the main disadvantages of this type of floor - rotting of the floorboards and lower bath crowns, but to keep its main purpose - to drain water from the floor surface.
To do this, create a steady flow of water in a direction convenient for you, ensure the collection and withdrawal of water from the underground space outside your bath (you can use special gutters), and do not forget about the device of high-quality and reliable ventilation underground space.
Those people who have a suburban area at their disposal traditionally have a desire to build their own bathhouse. This is a rather complicated and troublesome task, but quite doable. To do all the large-scale work correctly, you will have to “shovel” a lot of information about the construction of this building and the conduct of all necessary communications in it in advance.
One of the first specific questions that arise when planning a building will be - how to make a floor in a bath with a drain? To carry out the installation of such a design, it is necessary to consider the installation of bath floors, the installation of a drain siphon, the water drainage scheme, the choice of basic materials and some other nuances that will help facilitate the work.
Requirements for the floors in the bath
When building a bath Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the floor structure, since it is on it that the main “wet” load of this “narrow-profile” structure falls. The main task in the arrangement of bath floors, after their strength, is a full and unhindered outflow of water. From correct installation drainage systems and drainage pipes directly depends on the long-term operation of the entire structure. It is this factor that affects the wear of all layers of the floor and the possibility of destructive putrefactive processes in its wooden elements.
When installing floors in a bath, different schemes and technologies are used using modern waterproofing materials or relying on old proven folk methods. If you decide to cope with this work on your own, then it is worth considering several options that will help you make a choice in terms of complexity and installation, and according to the characteristics of a particular building. In the absence of experience in building art, it is recommended to choose the most reliable, simple, affordable and proven method of drainage.
But, no matter what option the choice is, the floors must meet the general criteria that determine the normal functioning of the bath and the comfort of visitors:
- The floor must have a sufficiently hard and non-slip surface, both dry and wet.
- The surface of the floor should be warm, especially in cases where it is planned to use the bath all year round.
- Floors should be easy to clean and dry, as in any sanitary facility.
- The key condition is the mandatory presence of a rapid water drainage system, in order to avoid the development of unwanted microflora, the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the bathhouse.
Variety of bath floor designs with drain
The design of the floor and the arrangement of the drain in it directly depend on what material it is planned to build it from, and how the bath is planned to be used.
The floors in the bath rooms are mounted from boards, concrete or combined from several materials.
Under any type of floor, a water outlet is prepared in advance - it can be a sewer pipe connected to a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe room, or a drain pit dug right under the bathhouse, into which drainage is poured. The floor is almost always arranged with a slope towards the drain, and only in one case can it be made even - when a flowing light covering of the summer bath is provided.
If a sewer outlet pipe is installed for draining, then it is located in one of the corners or in the center of the floor of the room. Another option for draining is the slope of the surface to one of the walls, along which a kind of gutter is arranged, which also runs at a slope to the drain hole, to which the sewer pipe is already connected.
It is quite difficult to mount a wooden floor under a slope, but if it is planned to cover the boards, then you can turn to the combined option. It includes a draft floor in the form of a concrete screed, made under a slope, into which a sewer pipe is embedded. On top of the screed, a flat flooring of the flowing floor is installed. Water, penetrating between the boards on the slopes of the subfloor, will strive along them to the drain hole and freely go into the pipe.
The combined floor can be called the best option, since it fully complies with all of the above criteria for reliability and comfort, especially since it is quite possible to lay insulation material under the screed, which, with proper waterproofing, will not come into contact with moisture in any way.
This type of bath floor is quite simple in execution, and it can be attributed to low-cost structures. For the installation of such a structure, lumber of the first or second grade will be required. The flooring consists of even, without locks, well planed boards, fixed on floor beams, at a distance of 5 ÷ 7 mm from each other. Thus, gaps are obtained between them, through which water escapes.
In this case, it is quite possible to do without the installation of sewer pipes, and under the floor, which is raised from the ground by 500 ÷ 550 mm, a good drainage layer of crushed stone or expanded clay and sand goes deep into the soil by about 500 mm.
Usually a bath with such a floor covering is built on suburban area for use only in the warm season, since the rooms will quickly cool down through the leaking floor and in this case it will not be possible to obtain a good effect of a steam room at a low temperature outside.
If you plan to use the bath all year round, then a leaking floor is also suitable, only you need to use the one already mentioned above combined option when a concrete screed is placed under the floor boards. With this option, it is better to make the wooden flooring removable, so that it can be taken out in parts to the street, dried and ventilated.
Installation of leaking floors
To know what leaking floors can be and how to properly install them, you should consider the processes step by step.
First option
Installation of this type of floor can be called the simplest, but rather time-consuming. Drainage begins to be arranged at the stage of foundation construction, which can be tape or columnar. The base under the walls is raised to a height of 500 ÷ 550 mm.
If a tape version of the foundation is being erected, then ventilation holes must be arranged in its walls, at a height of 250–300 mm.
If a strip foundation is being made, then “air vents” must be left - ventilation holes
Fragments of the ventilation pipe for these purposes are embedded during the pouring of concrete into the formwork.
The drain during the installation of the leaking floor is arranged underground. To do this, a small pit is dug in its center, with a depth of 600 ÷ 700 mm in the event that a sewer pipe is installed in it, and up to one and a half meters deep, provided that water is drained directly into the ground. The second option is possible only if the soil at the construction site of the bath is loose, with a high content of sand.
On the surface of the underground soil, a slope is formed towards the pit, where water should collect and go into the prepared drainage or into the sewer. Any foundation with this method of water drainage must be most carefully waterproofed - usually bituminous mastic and roofing material are used for this process.
If a strip foundation is being arranged, then the underground space, made under a slope, must be concreted or at least made a very dense embankment of crushed stone. When installing a columnar foundation, drainage cushions are usually dispensed with around the supports.
Work takes place in the following sequence:
- If a drain pipe is laid, then after the foundation pit is dug, a hole is dug in the middle of the underground space.
- Further, a trench is laid from its bottom, along which a pipe is laid that drains water into the sewer or drain pit. The pipe is mounted at a slope of 3 ÷ 4 degrees - in this case, the height difference is about 5 cm per linear meter of length.
- If the drain pit is located directly under the floor, then the pit under it should be deeper, and a pillow of sand 150 ÷ 200 mm thick is laid on its bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone 350 ÷ 400 mm is compacted on top of it.
- After the pipe is laid, or the drain pit is completed, a foundation is erected, which must be waterproofed.
- Further, along the perimeter of the underground, the soil is removed with a slope at an angle of 10 degrees from the walls or foundation pillars towards the pit.
- Then the slopes of this slope can be covered with rubble, which must be well compacted, or a reinforced screed is arranged on the entire plane. To do this, a reinforcing mesh with cells of the order of 80 × 80 mm is laid on top of the crushed stone. A sufficiently dense concrete solution is prepared, poured, leveled with observance of slopes, and then smoothed and ironed.
- If it is necessary to reduce the cost of constructing a structure, then instead of a concrete solution to form slopes, a clay castle can be made on top of the rubble to retain water. It is moistened and kneaded thickly, and then laid out with a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm and well leveled, and as it dries, it is smoothed out, moistened with water.
- After the drain and the pit are ready, a strapping belt and floor beams pre-treated with antiseptic impregnation are installed on the foundation walls covered with waterproofing material. The lower coronal beams are attached either to the metal strapping belt (if it is provided for by the foundation design), or with the help of embedded elements - anchors, studs, etc. The connection of the crown and floor beams can be different - using metal corners, cutting, etc.
- Floor boards are mounted on the floor beams at a distance of 5 ÷ 7 mm from each other, which must have a thickness of at least 20 mm. The thickness of the boards is selected depending on the distance at which the floor beams will be laid.
Table of the ratio of the dimensions of the floor beams, their installation step, the thickness of the floor boards:
Board thickness, mm Floor beam spacing, mm Board length, mm Beam cross section, mm Support pillar spacing, mm Beam cross section size
| 20 | 300 | 2000 | 60×110 | 1000 | 50×80 |
| 24 | 400 | 2500 | 70×150 | 1200 | 50×90 |
| 30 | 500 | 3000 | 80×150 | 1500 | 50×100 |
| 36 | 600 | 3500 | 80×160 | 2000 | 60×110 |
| 40 | 700 | 4000 | 100×180 | - | - |
| - | 5000 | 150×200 | - | ||
| - | - | 6000 | 180×220 | - |
Sometimes the boards are not nailed to the floor beams, but are fastened together with a beam and stacked on top. The boards are assembled into shields in such a way that the fastening bar is between the floor beams. This is done so that it is possible to periodically take out the gratings to the street for high-quality drying.
Second option
Others, even more simple option, but which is only suitable for a summer bath, is a device in the entire underground space, between the pillars of the foundation, the sewage pit. It is completely filled with drainage, consisting of a sand cushion, covered on top with a layer of rubble or a mixture of these building materials.
In this case, water flows freely over the entire surface of the underground. Crushed stone breaks its flows, and sand plays the role of a filter that will absorb and take it into the natural drainage layer of the soil. The depth of the pit should be about 450 ÷ 500 mm, and the backfill should be at least 350 ÷ 400 mm thick.
Sometimes, instead of a sand and gravel cushion, a waterproof pallet is placed under the floor, which is mounted with a slope to the side drain pit or a ditch located next to the bath, where water will be drained. The pallet can be formed from several layers of roofing material, which are hot glued together using bituminous mastic.
Third option
This option may well be applied in any bath used all year round, as it provides for floor insulation. Its installation is more complicated and will require the use of a considerable amount of materials.
- Work on this version of the floor also begins when the foundation is being built. The drainage pipe is laid through the underground part of the foundation wall at a slope of 30 degrees into the cesspool or, if possible, connected to the central sewer system. The pipe is buried in the ground below the freezing layer by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
- A cesspool can be built with bricks laid at a distance of 50 mm from each other, from concrete rings in which holes are drilled or punched to drain water into the ground. And the easiest option is from old car tires.
The size of the pit must be calculated depending on how intensively the bath will be used.
- Before burying the ditch where the pipe is laid, it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay, which will serve as a heater and prevent the water in the pipe from freezing in winter.
Then the trench is covered with soil, which must be carefully tamped.
Video: gasket example sewer pipe from the erected bath
- Further work is carried out underground. In the area where the drain will be located, and where the drain pipe is connected, a pit is made. It, after it is lined with bricks and plastered, should have a size of approximately 250 × 250 mm, and its deepening is carried out by 300 ÷ 400 mm. The walls of the pit should rise to the level of the rough concrete floor of the structure.
- The pipe is embedded in one of the walls of the pit, then covered with soil.
- Then, along the entire perimeter of the floor in the underground space around the pit, backfilling is done with a sand-gravel mixture, with which they begin to form a slope for runoff on the subfloor. This layer must be well compacted - for this it is moistened with water.
- An insulating layer is applied to the gravel mixture, consisting of a concrete solution mixed with foam plastic chips, or the entire surface is laid out with expanded polystyrene plates 30 ÷ 50 mm thick, observing the slope.
- Next, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing of the joints of the wall and the formed floor of the room. Roll material laid on the floor, with a strip of about 200 mm and lifted to the walls by 500 mm. For waterproofing, and in this case, roofing material is best suited.
- It is recommended to lay a reinforcing mesh on top of the foam and waterproofing, which will make the subfloor more durable and durable.
- The mesh is poured with a leveling screed made of concrete mortar - its thickness must be at least 50 mm. All work is carried out taking into account maintaining the angle of inclination from the walls of the bath to the pit. The screed must be perfectly even, since then it will be shaped with tiles or other finishing material.
- The finished screed can be treated with a deep penetration waterproofing impregnation, laid out with ceramic tiles or covered with liquid rubber or glass.
- After that, a water seal is installed in the pit.
- From above, the pit is closed with a metal mesh to collect large debris.
- A wooden removable leaky flooring is installed on the finished floor, convenient in that it can be lifted out to dry, and the concrete or tiled floor under it should be put in order at this time.
In this diagram, all layers of the insulated pouring floor are clearly visible. The only point that is not indicated on it is the reinforcement of the screed.
1 - The wall of the bath, which has an inner lining.
2 – Vapor barrier layer on the walls.
3 – Waterproofing layer at the joints of the wall and floor. This material is necessary in these places, since the moisture that has got into them dries out much longer. The roofing material used for waterproofing closes and rounds the joint.
4 - Concrete foundation.
5 - Backfill layer of sand-gravel or crushed stone-sand mixture.
6 - Insulation layer.
7 - Subfloor screed.
8 - Layer ceramic tiles, topping impregnation, liquid rubber or glass coating - these materials make the surface smoother, and water flows well along it, and they additionally waterproof all layers of the floor.
9 - A drain pipe that drains water from the pit to the sewer.
10 – Leaking removable floor.
11 - A grate installed on the pit to trap large debris.
12 – A water trap that prevents cold air from entering and bad smell from the sewer pit into the room.
13 - A pit for receiving flowing water and directing it to the drain pipe.
Bath foundation - a special approach.
The specifics of the operation of the bath imposes features on the design of the base of this structure. Lot useful information on this issue is available in a special article on the construction bath foundation with drain.
Leak-proof wooden floor
A non-leaking wooden floor is more difficult to install. Its design consists of two plank layers - "black" and "white" floors. The latter is arranged under a slope towards the drain. A heater is mounted between these two layers, and a sewer pipe and a drain are installed through the entire thickness of the structure at the lowest point of the slope.
To cover this type of floor, you will need a good first-class tongue and groove board with tongue and groove locks, made from wood with low hygroscopicity, such as oak, but quality pine is also quite suitable. Oak has a high structural density, due to which moisture penetrates minimally into the thickness of the wood of the boards, and pine has a good resin content, which also inhibits the absorption of water into the material.
In this design, the boards are installed tightly to each other, and the coating should not have even minimal gaps. Water flows down the floor plane directly into the drain hole.
If such a floor is chosen, then very good ventilation is necessary in the bath, since the wood must be able to dry completely. After each use of the bath, the doors to the premises must be opened for ventilation.
Installation of insulated non-leaking floor
- The drain pipe in this design is also mounted during the construction of the foundation, and its branch pipe rises to the desired height, which should be approximately 50 mm lower than the white non-leaking coating.
- Further, the underground space is completely waterproofed with the help of roofing felt, which is laid on the soil base and walls and the upper plane of the strip foundation, raised to a height of 450 ÷ 5000 mm.
- On top of the waterproofing material, crown beams and floor beams are laid and fixed on the foundation tape.
- Subfloor boards are fixed on the floor beams at a distance of 50 ÷ 70 mm from each other. In the area where the drain pipe is connected, a round hole of the desired diameter is cut in the floor for it.
- Further, a drain slope is formed on the rough flooring. For this, bars or boards are used, hewn in compliance with the required slope. Usually the slope is made no more than 5 °, the height difference in this case will be about 80 mm per linear meter. A steeper slope may no longer be safe for bathers.
In order to accurately achieve the need for a slope, along the perimeter of the room, bars are fixed to the walls, which will become an element of the crate and designate its very high point. Their height usually varies from 50 to 100 mm.
- A vapor barrier film is fixed with brackets on top of the mounted crate, it is nailed onto the crate and subfloor boards.
- On the vapor barrier, between the bars of the crate, a heater is laid - for this it is best to use extruded polystyrene foam. The material should fit tightly between the elements of the crate - if gaps remain, then they are filled with mounting foam to avoid the formation of cold bridges.
- The insulation must be covered from above with a waterproofing material. Its role can be played by an ordinary thick plastic film. If you have to lay several of its canvases, then this is done with an overlap of 300 ÷ 400 mm, and the joint is glued with waterproof wide adhesive tape.
- Holes are made for the drain pipe in the insulation and waterproofing. Then waterproofing film fixed on it with waterproof tape, neutralizing the resulting gaps.
- After that, the finishing floor boards are fixed to the crate, which are assembled into a single plane with the help of groove-thorn locks. Before installation, the material must be treated with an antiseptic agent that will protect the wood from biological decomposition.
At the joints of the ends of the boards, if they have to be done, the floorboards should be tightly fitted to each other.
The best option is to install the boards in such a way that the water flow runs along the wood fibers, and not across. In this case, the material will absorb less moisture, and water will drain more intensively into the drain.
- To install a drain drain in the boards of the finished floor, it is necessary to measure and cut a hole of the required diameter.
- In a wooden non-leaking floor, the drain can also run along one of the walls. In this case, the slope is arranged from one wall to another, and a plastic gutter is installed on the bottom line of the slope, which is also mounted at an angle towards the drain connected to the sewer pipe.
If this option is chosen, with a slope in one direction, then the crate under it is done a little differently - the highest bar is fixed along one wall, the lowest - along the drain groove.
- After the installation of the plank flooring is completed, skirting boards are installed along the walls. The gaps around the sewer pipe are sealed with sealant, and the drain hole of the ladder is closed with a grate.
Concrete floor
This type of floor is suitable for a bath in all respects, except for one - it is cold, even if there is a heater inside the structure, so very often under finishing material, infrared or cable electric floors are laid on top of the screed.
When arranging this floor option, sewerage is laid in advance. The drain can be installed both in the middle of the room, and near one of the walls, as well as in the corner. The slope of the floor is made at an angle of about 5 degrees, which allows visitors to move comfortably along it and not linger on the surface of the water.
After pouring and full maturation of the screed, it is decorated on top with tiles, the seams between which are sealed with moisture-resistant grout or sealant. Top screeds are often simply stacked removable wooden decking which have already been mentioned above.
Laying a concrete floor in a bath with a slope is a topic for separate consideration in a special publication on our website.
At the end of the article - a video about the option of installing a wooden leaking bath floor.
Video: do-it-yourself simple bath floor
The classic Russian bath has a wooden pouring floor. Why torrential? When washing, water flows directly onto the floor boards and goes into the gaps between them. Water, as it were, “spills” through the floor and then goes underground. I must say that in our time, more and more often, during the construction of a bathhouse, a pouring floor is abandoned in favor of a waterproofed floor, however, pouring floors are still widespread, especially far from big cities. Why do people choose poured floors?
The first advantage of the pouring floor is the simplicity of its construction. To make such a floor in the bath is within the power of everyone.
There are several options for pouring floors in a Russian bath:
Boards along the logs are laid with a gap. Water leaks into the gaps between the boards.
The boards are laid tightly, without any gaps, with a slight slope towards one of the walls of the bath. Near this wall there is a drain in the form of one long slot through which water enters the gutter. It is important that the water rolls along the boards, in which case it will not stagnate.
A variant that has long been used in Russian villages: the floor in the steam room consists, as it were, of two halves with an inclination towards the center, where a gutter made of three boards is located for draining water. One edge of the floor board rests on this gutter. From drafts, the gutter is blocked by a gate (flap).
In general, the gutter can be located in any convenient location. The main thing is that the boards are located with a slight slope towards it, and the water rolls into the gutter along the boards. The water drain is often made round, in which case a regular ball can be used as a damper. With any type of flooring, it must be completely isolated from the walls of the bath and the foundation. The task of waterproofing is solved extremely simply - by strengthening on the wall even before laying the floor boards of roofing material or galvanization.
The second important advantage of the pouring floor is the low price of materials for its installation. For the installation of a pouring floor, a minimum of lumber is required. There is no need for a heavy strip foundation, which costs a lot. In addition, for the construction of such a foundation, it will be necessary to hire qualified performers. All that is needed for a bath with a pouring floor is a light columnar foundation.
Third advantage. Wooden floors
Wood natural, environmentally friendly safe material. The wooden floor is "warm". When the furnace is fired in a bath, it heats up quickly, even in winter. By wooden floor pleasant to walk and, importantly, without fear of slipping.
The fourth advantage of the pouring floor: easy repair if necessary
Repair of the pouring floor comes down to replacing rotten floorboards and logs. The work is easy and can be done on your own. Repair costs are not high.
Unfortunately, it is the need to periodically replace rotten floorboards that is the main disadvantage of pouring floors. Even in a well-built bath, the service life of a pouring floor rarely exceeds ten years. In most cases, this period is much less.
Summarizing what has been said, pouring floors in your bath are justified if: You do not want to invest significant money in the construction of a bath.
The bath is used periodically, from time to time. What is usual for suburban areas.
There is no reliable power supply in your area. Unfortunately, this is a problem of many suburban areas and villages in the outback of Russia. In this case, the only option is a pouring floor.
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