Corner door. Independent production of iron doors - drawings, materials and installation instructions. Assembling the door frame

Every person who knows how to use a welding machine has a desire to make a beautiful and reliable iron door with his own hands. This work requires skills, but the product will turn out to be individual, guaranteed strong and durable. The process of welding such doors does not require fantastic financial costs and doesn't take much time. It is necessary to calculate the amount of material and prepare necessary tools, but first you need to perform measurements and draw detailed drawing future product. We will describe in detail all manufacturing process and sequence of operations.

The preparatory work consists in choosing the design and construction of the future door, since each door is unique in size and can be outdoor or indoor. To understand how to weld a door correctly, you need to decide on the material, fittings and decor that you want to use. In order to calculate the number of components, you need to make measurements and make an accurate drawing. In progress preparatory work the following circumstances must be taken into account:

the recommended dimensions of the door are not more than 100 X 200 cm, otherwise it will be too heavy, because additional stiffeners will be needed;
if the dimensions of the opening exceed 200 cm in height, it is necessary to close the excess part of the opening with insulated decorative or blind inserts;
if the opening is wider than 100 cm, you can put a blind insert or a hinged securely fixed sash;
determine in which direction the door will open, and select the appropriate locks;
calculate the location of the locks and the door peephole in accordance with the growth of the residents;
determine the type of paintwork, insulation and interior decorative coating;
calculate the type and depth of attachment points door frame, anti-removable pins and vertical mounting drive;
calculate the parameters and determine the type of metal components.

It is very important to make sure that the box will be attached to a solid opening, and not to wooden or plastered fragile surfaces.

The drawing, made to scale, should indicate the location of the peephole, handles, keyholes, hinges (from 2 to 4 pieces), stiffeners and anti-removable devices and mechanisms. To adjust, the door leaf must be smaller than the box, and it, in turn, should be two centimeters smaller than the doorway.

Necessary tools and materials

Fast and high-quality work is possible only if there is a convenient and properly organized workplace and serviceable tools. Self-welding of metal doors requires a certain tool minimum, which consists of the following set:

convenient and durable mounting table;
welding machine with a set of electrodes and a mask;
marking tool, felt-tip pen or sharpened chalk;
welding magnets with an angle of 90 ° and clamps;
angle grinder (grinder) with discs;
electric drill and screwdriver with a set of drills and bits;
perforator with carbide drills;
serviceable electrical extension cords;
tape measure and building level.

After measuring and drawing up a detailed drawing, you can accurately calculate the amount and name of the metal required for welding doors, as well as select locks, hinges and other components. The natural desire to emphasize one's own individuality can influence the choice of material, and Special attention here it is necessary to pay attention to appearance, hinges, increased secrecy of locks, anti-removable nodes and additional locking mechanisms. The standard set of materials for a metal door consists of the following elements:

for the front sheet, steel with a thickness of at least 2-3 mm is selected, according to the size of the door with the overlap of the box, usually 100 X 210 cm;
the door frame is welded from a corner of 3 X 3 cm;
for the door frame and stiffeners use a profiled pipe 2.5 X 5 cm and strips;
fastening of the box to the opening is provided by strips 3 mm thick in the amount of 4-6 pcs. and 30 cm long;
door hinges in the amount of 3 pieces;
selected fittings and mounting bolts;
primer and polymer paint;
insulation and interior decoration.

It is important that the locks have high wear resistance, and the hinges are equipped with bearings to ensure noiselessness and long service life.

Welding sequence

The door welding process is individual and depends on the specific project. It is necessary that the parameters of the welding machine allow stable operation at the existing voltage in the network. In order to comply with the required dimensions and angles, it is necessary to consult as often as possible with measuring tool, and also use special welding magnets when working. The sequence of operations consists in the phased implementation of the following main points, namely:

the door frame is marked and cut, magnets are placed in the corners, tack welding is performed;
in case of violation of the connection angle, it is corrected, then the structure is finally welded;
seams are processed on all sides by a grinder;
then the door frame is cut and welded with obligatory measurement of diagonals;
a gap between the box and the frame of 3 mm is required on three sides and 5 mm on the side of the locks;
stiffening ribs are welded into the door frame, taking into account the location of the locks, peephole, anti-removable pins, vertical locking drive;
mark the front sheet and weld it to the frame and stiffeners with a seam of about 4 cm every 15-20 cm;
we weld the hinges, having previously drilled a hole for lubrication;
we attach the lock assembly, pins to the welded door and drill all the necessary holes;
we weld plates for fastening to the box, grind and prime the iron door;
then painting is carried out, and after drying, all fittings are attached;
the door leaf is insulated and finished on the inside with final painting.

It is important to carry out the production process without haste, carefully measuring the corners and ensuring that the locks, vertical locks and pivoting hinges work flawlessly.

Of course, this sequence does not reflect the nuances of each individual metal door, but the basic scheme is set out correctly. Thickness, dimensions, and hence weight are selected depending on the needs and individuality of each owner. At the same time, it must be taken into account that additional mass will require an increase in rigidity, and this will lead to a greater load on the frame, hinges and door frame.

Results

We were told about how to calculate, mark and weld metal door with your own hands, about what tools are needed for this process, what sequence of actions must be followed. Quality comes with experience, but you will certainly save a lot of money, as well as make a door to your taste and size. Successful and successful work!

A high-quality steel door, even with a budget hammer painting, now costs good money. Of course, cheap Chinese products opened with a can opener are not taken into account. Therefore, a homeowner with incomes below the average has no choice but to make a metal door and install it with his own hands, or have it done by some garage handyman. But if you are familiar with the welding machine firsthand, then there is no need to pay for someone else's work - read our article on the manufacturing technology and get down to business yourself.

Preparation for work

At this stage, you need to measure the entrance opening and prepare all the necessary materials. The list of tools is standard - measuring devices, welding and a grinder with a drill.

Advice. To fix the nodes to be welded, be sure to prepare 2-3 clamps, it is much more difficult to work without them.

Measuring the opening at the entrance to the apartment or private house produced in several places, especially in width. It is necessary to identify the bottleneck in order to focus on this size during manufacture. Apply the measurement results to the scheme according to which you will begin to harvest the metal.

It is assumed that you do not have personal experience in assembling iron doors, so for starters, we suggest making the most simple design. Even if it doesn’t turn out to be too beautiful, you will subsequently line the sash with insulation and decorative overlays that will hide all minor flaws. From constructive materials you will need:

1 standard sheet of steel, preferably cold-rolled, 1.5-2 mm thick per sheet;
for the frame and door frame, take a profile pipe with a section of 40 x 20 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5-2 mm;
canopies 2 pcs. (must be ordered by a turner) and metal plates 4-5 mm thick for their installation;
a simple and reliable door lock, you can - homemade.

Design drawing from the corners

Advice. It makes no sense to take too thick metal (for example, 3 mm), since it will still not work to weld a real armored door, and the product will come out too heavy. The thickness of the sheet and the professional pipe of 1.5 mm is quite enough. Instead of the latter, you can use an equal-shelf corner 45 x 3 mm.

If your welding skills are not yet perfected, then it is better to take a steel sheet 2 mm thick, it is more difficult to burn through due to lack of experience. Also think about the future outdoor decoration to pre-select materials. More about preparatory stage the manufacture of a metal door with wooden lining is described in the video:

Door Manufacturing Guide

The first operation is the preparation of parts. It is performed according to the following scheme:

Cut 4 profiles for the vertical posts of the door frame (or 2 corners), guided by the drawing.
Prepare 4 crossbars of the box from a professional pipe or corners.
For the frame of the canvas, cut 4 horizontal jumpers and 2 racks.
Using a grinder, adjust the dimensions of the steel sheet to fit the dimensions of the door frame.

Drawing of a door from a professional pipe in the entrance opening

Note. Between the door block and the wall, provide gaps of 1 cm around the entire perimeter, as shown in the drawing. At the porches, a gap of at least 4 mm must be observed for the sealing tape.

After cutting the elements of the product, clean the sharp ends and remove burrs, and then proceed to assembly. To make it easier for you to process before painting, at this stage it is recommended to remove all rust from the surface of the workpieces with coarse sandpaper and an iron brush.

Making a door leaf

Traditionally, do-it-yourself welding of an iron door begins with the manufacture of a box, where the finished sash is then inserted. But personal experience says many craftsmen that it is worth starting with the canvas - it’s easier to maintain an angle of 90 ° and prevent a “helicopter” in which the product is skewed relative to the frontal plane.

First of all, lay a sheet of metal on a table or stands and level it on a plane, using a building level and pads in the right places. Then proceed in this order:

Lay out the frame blanks on the sheet, departing from its edges by 1 cm and observing 90 ° angles. Catch the upper and lower crossbars at several points by welding, fixing them with clamps.
Repeat the same operation with vertical posts, tacking from the inside of the profile. How it looks visually is shown in the photo above.
Finally weld the frame elements to the sheet and to each other. Install 2 intermediate jumpers and fasten them in the same way.
At the end, grind all the welds with a grinder.

Attention! When connected profile pipe do not make continuous seams with the canvas, otherwise the metal will lead and at the output you will get the same “helicopter”. Fuse on the inside of the dot every 10 cm.

We weld the box

In our case, the outer frame is assembled from two profiles set at an angle of 90° relative to each other (see above in the drawing). Therefore, first form the outer frame by laying the profiles around the entire perimeter of the canvas and fastening them with tacks.

The next corrugated pipe is laid flat on the 2 previous ones with an overlap and forms the inner frame of the box. Carefully study the photo to understand this combination.

When all frame profiles are in place, grab them, and then spot weld them together. Be careful not to weld the frame to the door leaf by mistake. A visually finished box lying on the sash looks like this:

Before the next operation, you need to separate the canvas and the box, and turn the last one over and put it on the desktop. Now you can carefully boil the joints from the outside and grind them with a grinder. Do not suture from the inside where the sash will fit.

From the inside, the joint does not need to be sealed, only from the outside

An important point. Before removing the frame from door leaf, put marks on both elements to remember their position and not to confuse the top and bottom during assembly.

We mount canopies

To continue work, you must again put the finished sash on the table, only now on top of the box. At this stage, it is important to clearly align all the gaps: the indents from the edge of the canvas to the outer cut of the loot should be uniform around the entire perimeter and be 1 cm, the gap of the porch for laying the seal should be 4-6 mm. To ensure it, slip a gasket of the desired thickness under the steel sheet.

Now about how to properly make canopies:

Determine the position of the canopies by measuring the same distance from above and below - 25 cm. Mark and cut the grooves in the canvas with a grinder to weld the hinges directly to the frame profile, and not to the sheet.
Weld a thick plate to the top of the canopy, fitting the parts in place to the end of the loot.
Attach the hinge with the plate to the box in such a way as to maintain a gap of 3-5 mm between it and the plane of the sheet. Grab the part by welding.
Put the second amplifier on the door leaf and weld it to the canopy and sash. Repeat all operations on the other loop.

When the iron door is held on with tacks, check its opening and fit, then weld the canopies completely and clean the seams.

Installing the lock

When a freshly made front door has not yet been placed in the opening, do-it-yourself insertion of constipation is not a problem. First, attach the lock to the end of the canvas and outline its outline.

To cut a groove for a lock, use a grinder and a drill. When you remove the cut piece of metal, align and clean the edges of the opening.

Insert the lock into the groove and drill holes for fastening. Cut an M5 or M6 thread into them and fix the product.
Opposite the hole in the case for the handle and the keyhole, put marks on the door leaf. Cut the same openings in it and put a handle with an overlay on the outside.
Determine the location in the door frame where the bolts of the lock should fit into the holes when closing. Make these grooves, clean them up and check how the constipation works. Adjust or widen the opening if necessary.

When finished, make 4 mounting holes in the box, where the anchor bolts will enter during installation. More information and important points you can learn about the manufacture of an iron door by watching the video:

Product cladding

Whatever way you choose to finish the door, you must first protect it from corrosion - primed and painted. To do this, remove the slag from the welds, clean them and degrease the entire surface, and then apply 2 layers of primer. After drying, paint the product 2 times, starting from the back.

Ennoble entrance doors in the following ways:

insulate from the inside with polystyrene plates, putting them on glue, and sheathe them with plastic panels;
fasten with self-tapping screws the outer and inner lining of wood, in particular, lining;
cover the canvas with leatherette, laying a layer of insulation under it;
buy and install a ready-made kit for MDF doors.

You can make platbands from iron and paint in the same color

The finished product is installed in the entrance opening on anchor bolts, and the slots are traditionally sealed with mounting foam. Here it is important to observe the horizontal and vertical, so that the sash closes well, and the loot is not “littered” inside the apartment. To hide the foam, the box is sheathed on the outside and inside with platbands made of wood, metal or plastic. The correct painting of the door leaf is described in detail in the last video:

Conclusion

Home-made entrance doors made of iron are not inferior to the factory ones in terms of service life, if the technology was followed during the manufacturing process and the design was welded without distortions. Otherwise, problems will appear, first of all, with the lock, which will begin to close poorly and jam. To prevent this from happening, spend more time adjusting all the elements during the assembly process, when mistakes are easier to fix.

In the old days, the question of how to make a metal door with your own hands did not bother the inhabitants of our country at all. Sheet steel products appeared in the 90s of the last century and did not look particularly aesthetically pleasing. Their purpose was to securely close the entrance to the dwelling. But over time, steel doors have also become decorative element building facade.

The main material is rolled metal. For the manufacture of an ordinary door without a particularly fanciful finish, you need a sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm and a metal profile for the frame and door frame. A corner with a side of 4.5-5 cm or a professional pipe (square) of approximately the same section is suitable.

The calculation of the material is carried out after taking measurements of the door opening. To be able to qualitatively insulate the joints of the box and the wall, the measurement must be reduced by 1-2 cm around the perimeter. After installation, the gaps can be filled with mounting foam and to exclude the flow of cold air into the gaps.

Frame measurements are taken on the inside of the box after it has been made. For the simultaneous purchase of material in the calculations, you can use the dimensions of the door frame. In addition to the perimeter of these parts door block, you need to calculate the dimensions of the frame stiffeners. Their number and arrangement is quite arbitrary and should be developed independently. To find out the amount of a corner or pipe, the lengths of all the details of the box and frame are summed up and another 10-15% is added for processing.

The calculation of the metal for the door leaf is done based on the size of the box. The outer part of the canvas should overlap the joint of the frame and the box by 1.5-2 cm along the perimeter. The inside of the door can be sheathed not with a metal sheet, but with MDF, clapboard or other lumber. If you want to have a completely iron door in the room, then the parameters of the inner sheet must match the dimensions of the frame frame.

Entrance metal doors can be insulated using XPS boards, mineral wool (Isover) or similar materials. Gaps between pieces of foam and frame racks easy to fill with mounting foam.

Some doors are custom sizes. Too wide or high opening, the arched entrance must be divided into parts, one of which should be equal to the approximate dimensions of a standard front door (no more than 1.5 by 2 m). For the rest, develop a design sketch using separate fixed frames sheathed with metal. Often they serve as a decorative frame for the opening and include small windows, wrought iron elements or other finishes.

Having picked up the materials, you need to prepare the following tools:

grinder;
welding machine;
drill with drills for metal;
building square and tape measure.

For the final finishing of the door, you will need fittings, a lock, hinges and related decorative elements.

Making an iron door

Before you make an iron door with your own hands, you need to cut the metal into parts of the required length. To make the box even, without skew, you will need to measure its diagonals before starting welding. To mark the ends of a corner or pipe, you will need a construction square or a template with a 450 cut. Attach the tool to 1 side of the corner or to opposite sides of the professional pipe, mark the cut line and cut off the excess part of the metal according to the marking. In the same way, prepare the ends of the upper and lower extensions and side profiles.

It is necessary to fold the parts, joining the cut ends. Measure 2 diagonals of the rectangle with a tape measure. They must completely coincide, only then can all the angles be considered right, and the sides equal in pairs. Eliminate the identified defects with a grinder, cutting the corner in the right places. Determine the location of the lock and cut holes for the tongue or bolt.

Weld the parts of the box. After the metal has cooled, grind the welding spots with a grinder so that in the future the canvas fits snugly around the entire perimeter of the box.

How to make a canvas frame

Carefully measure the inside of the box. In order for the door to move freely in the opening, subtract 1 cm from the measurements of length and width. When manufacturing and installing the frame, this will allow gaps to be formed around the perimeter of the door.

Trim the prepared parts in the same way as the parts of the box, at an angle of 45 °. Lay out the frame inside the box, inserting pieces of metal 5 mm thick to fix the gaps. Measure diagonals and correct defects if necessary.

Make marks at the place where the lock is installed. Take out the profile, which will have a lock and cut a hole for the crossbars. Reconnect the frame parts inside the door frame, check the alignment of the holes. Weld the corners of the frame from the inside. In several places, weld the door frame to the frame by welding.

Cut out the middle vertical stiffener from the metal. There may be 2 if the owner deems it necessary. Between the stiffener and the edge of the door, make a small frame for installing the lock: weld 2 short profiles horizontally and put a plate between them, if this is required by the method of fastening the lock body.

Cut and weld horizontal or inclined stiffeners inside the iron door frame. Their number and location is arbitrary. If the door will have a decorative window, frame it inside the frame

Install 2-3 loops so that their card parts are inside the gap left during assembly. Attach the assembled hinges to the corresponding parts of the frame and box by welding. Install the lock, adjust it for easy entry of the crossbars into the holes. If necessary, make a keyhole in the plate installed for fastening, cut the thread for decorative overlays on the frame. Remove the lock.

How to make a door leaf

The sheet of metal must be marked according to the measurements taken from the frame part. On the porch and horizontal parts of the door, the overlap on the frame should be at least 1-1.5 cm. In the back near the hinges, leave an overlap of about 0.5 cm or more, but so that it does not interfere with opening the door later.

Put the canvas under the finished box, connected to the frame. From the inside, weld the sheet to the frame. Cut off the welding seams made to fix the box, open and close the door. If all operations were carried out accurately and accurately, then a do-it-yourself metal door will move freely.

Having opened the door leaf, it is necessary to finally weld the hinges tacked in the draft. So that the welds do not interfere when closing, they are cleaned with an angle grinder (grinder). In the right place on the canvas, make a keyhole and threaded holes for a decorative overlay. Finally fix the lock in its place, check its operation and adjust if necessary.

Interior door trim

The master finishes the inside of the door with his own hands according to his own taste:

plywood;
clapboard;
chipboard.

Usually, a metal sheet is not placed on the inside, which makes the massive structure a little lighter and saves on rental. If the frame was made of a professional pipe, then the finish can be attached directly to it. The corner will require additional embedded elements of wood. They can be fixed on the door frame with self-tapping screws screwed into holes pre-drilled in the corner (side).

To insulate an iron front door, mineral wool or polystyrene is placed between the stiffeners and the frame frame. Elastic material such as mineral wool easily fills the entire space. Styrofoam or XPS has to be cut into pieces that may not fit snugly against frame parts. You can seal the gaps with mounting foam.

When the insulation is laid, it will not be difficult to attach the inner lining to the embedded bars or pipe yourself. If desired, upholster the surface with leatherette or leather, paste over with fine wood veneer or decorate in another way. You can leave the decor at the discretion of the hostess of the house, so that she does it with her own hands. Fix the box in the opening with anchors and fill the gaps with mounting foam. Glue the seal.

The door can simply be painted with automotive enamel from a balloon. Finishing options include the use of forged elements. You can buy or order exclusive patterns in the workshop. If the door has a glass insert, then the wrought iron decor will provide additional security, playing the role of a lattice. If desired, the outer part of the door can be finished with wood, strengthening the panels or veneer on the metal using reliable universal glue or self-tapping screws.

Metal doors are popular due to their reliability and safety. But industrial enterprises charge a significant fee for the manufacture of such structures. Meanwhile, doing all the work with your own hands is not particularly difficult - there would be a desire and elementary technical knowledge.

The benefits of homemade products

Creation metal structures manually is more difficult than using professional equipment. But there are no restrictions imposed by specific models and specifications. There is no risk that low-quality materials may be used for the sake of economy, than even large suppliers often sin finished products. The design and execution perfectly meet the expectations of the owner of a house, garage or country cottage.

Considerations of economy are also important, especially now, when every ruble gets harder and harder over the years.

Design

It makes no sense to take on the manufacture of steel doors without drawings and diagrams. First of all, measure the height and width of the openings. The collected data is rewritten and an exact diagram is drawn from them, showing how wide and high the canvas will be. In most cases, you can get by with a 90x200 cm door block, if the dimensions are larger than this bar, an auxiliary fragment is placed on top.

The following options can be used to close the frame:

Sheet steel;
lattice steel structure;
glass detail;
deaf fragment;
swing block.

You cannot bypass any element in the project. If it is not specified or specified incorrectly, great difficulties will inevitably arise.

The number of loops included in the project is determined by the massiveness of the product. In almost every case, 2–4 loops are enough; more complex doors are extremely rarely used in household purposes. Be sure to indicate the dimensions of individual structures, and the thickness of the frame sheets, and the type of exterior door trim. It is also important to immediately deal with the desired type of metal.

Tools and necessary materials

It is the metal that accounts for the main costs of both large manufacturers and private craftsmen. Almost all other materials cost noticeably less, with the exception of finishing coatings. Nevertheless, it is quite realistic to make a steel entrance structure with your own hands within 15 thousand rubles. For this amount, it is unlikely that you will be able to purchase even a low-quality craft from Asian countries.

Most often, do-it-yourself door structures are made from a professional pipe with a section of 2x4 cm. 18–22 linear meters of such a pipe make it possible to make a door block of typical dimensions - 100 cm in width and 200 cm in length.

In the event of misunderstandings, it is worth starting from the sketch, since it is not difficult to find already calculated drawings of products for all occasions. Minimum Thickness sheets of metal is 0.25 cm, and the remaining dimensions must match the dimensions of the opening.

When choosing hinges, experienced craftsmen prefer those that have a bearing.

Given the significant mass of the structure, three hinges will clearly work better and more reliably than two.

As well as metal profile corners, fittings, thermal protection and decorative coatings may be required. When working, abrasive wheels and drills, electrodes consume a resource. In addition to the welding machine and a special table for working with it, it will be impossible to do without an angle grinder, a quality drill and an electric jigsaw.

If necessary, a hammer, a nail puller and a sharply sharpened ax will help to dismantle the old structure. Hardware is sometimes more convenient to fasten wrench or a screwdriver.

We take measurements

The non-standard dimensions of a self-made door are an important advantage over serial designs. Professionals in factories charge extra for deviations from the most common dimensions. But first of all, you will have to evaluate the actual size of the opening and the door block that should be placed in it. Measurements are made with a tape measure and must be recorded on paper: you should not rely on memory in this case. In addition to the size of the canvas, they also take into account the fact that a box will stand around its perimeter, which usually has a thickness of 20–30 mm.

Since the width is greater in the area of \u200b\u200bthe loops, and less along the rest of the perimeter of the canvas, it will always be necessary to include the use of additional parts in the project. The widest size is taken into account, since only this condition makes it possible to attach the casing tightly enough. The height of the openings is measured along the side slopes on both sides. With a very high cavity, it is necessary to reduce the opening or prepare large architraves.

When the height of the hole is small, it is better to cut the wall with a special tool than to make adjustments to the door under construction.

How to make an iron front door with your own hands?

Having finished all the measurements and choosing the material, tools, you can immediately get to work. The technology implies a mandatory check of the walls. They should be of strong block materials or solid concrete.

In the opening with dimensions of more than 150x200 cm, it is recommended to install prefabricated boxes, the top or sidewall of which is covered with an additional strip of metal. Wide recesses are equipped with a pair of auxiliary modules with glass. They will help make the door stronger and decorate it.

The door will have to open outward, not inward, to facilitate care in the event of an emergency.

They begin by laying out the key parts of the box on a steel workbench and cutting them according to the markup. The accuracy of the cuts is checked by trial assembly and evaluation using joiner's corners.

Much attention should be paid to the exact connection of all diagonals with corners. The seams remaining after welding are finalized using angle grinders.

Now you need to make blanks for the frame, they use steel corners. Templates during work are rectangular structures of a strictly specified thickness. The main gaps from the frame to the box in the area of the castle are approximately 0.5 cm, and on the other three sides of the structure they are taken 0.3 cm each. They mark and cut the profile, put it in the box and verify the accuracy of the diagonal. Side profiles are supplied with slots for locks.

In order to weld a door from metal yourself, you need to start work by fixing the corners of the frames and welding the frames at several points around the perimeter. Then a strip metal is welded onto the frame, holding the skin, and a stiffener is welded in the frame. Immediately after this, you need to clean the resulting seams, mark the canvas.

Now you can cut the sheets with a grinder and weld them to the frame. After that, it is required to insert and weld additional stiffeners.

The place for mounting the lock is marked directly on the canvas; there they drill a well and bring it to the desired condition with a file. Then they prepare holes for the lock, cut the thread.

As soon as the installation of the constipation is completed, you can take on the hinges, welding them to the frame of the canvas and to the door frame. It is worth noting that the box needs to be opened and the parts of the hinges inside are to be fixed using a welding machine.

Often the work does not end there and a door with a window is built.

In the prepared recess, you can put not only glass, but also a decorative steel grate made using the cold forging technique. As practice shows, in terms of the ability to transmit light, such a solution is no worse, and in terms of design characteristics, it is even better than a simple glazed opening. If you want to save heat in the room as much as possible, however, the grille can be combined with a double-glazed window. If you wish, you can try other constructive solutions.

Box making process

In addition to the door itself, no matter how convenient and high-quality it may be, you will definitely need a box. It is easiest to create it with a woodworking machine; the starting component is a planed board. It is worth checking the wood to see if it is well dried, otherwise the whole structure can quickly warp.

The required elements will also be the following:

saws;
hammers;
slats;
screwdrivers;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
other metal fasteners.

On the entrance doors the main part of the box is mainly made of metal, which is welded. But the tree has its own advantage - it is ease of processing. But the fibreboard does not last long enough, and soon you will need to change the box. When choosing wood, pay attention to dark spots. If they are, then this indicates a violation of the drying technology. Such defects cannot be masked even with several layers of high-quality paint.

The markup is first done along the top, then along the bottom borders. To avoid mistakes, you need to add a crossbar and a threshold, respectively. After completing the blanks according to the notches made, they are adjusted to the dimensions of the door.

As soon as the hinges are hung and the door is put in place, it is adjusted again to eliminate the appearance of gaps. For your information: if at some point in the work it inspires fear, there are doubts that not everything can be done, then you need to turn to professional craftsmen.

Installation of double doors

Double-leaf doors are placed a little differently than single-leaf designs. Moreover, they have their own division inside, which must be taken into account. So, some doors with a pair of wings swing open, while others move apart. If the door is already installed, it is dismantled as carefully as possible.

To save the old boxes, proceed as follows:

remove platbands;
remove cement and foam;
unscrew screws or cut nails.

After removing the box, remove the remaining leveling layers, for this use a perforator. If the old shell is made in accordance with all the rules and is well preserved, it is left untouched, only removed mounting foam. As in the case of a single-leaf door, you will need to measure the opening. But in addition to it, adjacent planes are also measured. The box beam is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

The most practical tool is a miter saw, but in the absence of it, you can also use a hacksaw with a fine tooth. Then they cut into the vertical parts of the loop opening, for this purpose a milling cutter is used. In extreme cases, a chisel and a hammer will help to replace it; and it will be even easier to use superimposed insect loops. The structure is pulled together using self-tapping screws. To keep the box intact, before introducing the fasteners, holes are prepared 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.

The box in the opening is set exactly according to the level, and you need to follow not only the verticals, but also so that the design does not leave even a small edge of the contour of the recess. Having attached the rollers to the canvases, marking the height of the guides for them, draw a line along the level and screw a bar 4–5 cm thick along it to the wall. The guides are mounted on the bar, and a door is hung from it. It is always required to reserve the technological gap from the doors to the box.

So that it does not let cold air and precipitation into the room, this gap is filled with foam.

How to make a warm door at home?

But even a hermetically sealed door design cannot in itself become a reliable barrier to frost. To avoid the negative phenomena associated with this, it will have to be insulated. Most often, foam and polystyrene are used for this, which in production turn into plates of various thicknesses. Such materials are not destroyed when moistened, therefore they are allowed to be used for insulation of all premises, regardless of climatic conditions. The frame is made of dry timber, which should not damage the metal sheets.

Materials are placed in the gaps between the bars or placed by surprise. Attaching them can occur both mechanically and with glue.

Care should be taken to ensure that the gaps separating the insulation from the frame are minimal.

After finishing work, wait for some time and check if there are any gaps. A layer of facial material is placed on top of the insulation. It is very important that it is not only durable, but also as elegant as possible.

Finishing and decor

Numerous teams of builders and designers are ready to finish the doors, even those made independently. But the payment for their services is often excessive, calculated according to an arbitrary principle. And at the same time, all the same work can be done with your own hands in the shortest possible time.

Door openings can be covered with the following materials:

laminate;
decorative stone;
clapboard (plastic or wooden);
siding.

In the current conditions, anyone can easily find a metal door on the market according to their preferences and tastes. Numerous companies offer products of the most different designs. However, quite often there is a need to engage in independent production of such a door.

Steel door

Making metal doors with your own hands can be dictated by a number of reasons:

unique design or geometric requirements;
desire to apply the original design decision;
the use of specific materials;
the desire to get a high quality product (as they say, “if you want to do something beautiful, do it yourself”);
desire to save money.

Of course, making a metal door with your own hands cannot be called an easy task, but with some skill, the necessary knowledge and tools, you can cope with this task in a fairly short time. One of the main conditions is careful observance of the sequence of operations.

Required materials, equipment and tools

For the manufacture of metal doors, you will need the following materials, equipment and tools:

metal corner;
steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm;
door hinges(their number depends on the strength of the hinges themselves and on the weight of the door);
hardware details: lock, door knob etc.;
sheathing material (plywood, board or veneer - depending on your preferences and the availability of materials);
construction foam;
drill;
anchor bolts;
grinder with a disc designed for cutting metal;
welding table or goats for product assembly.

But the manufacture and installation of metal doors is a creative matter. Therefore, the above list can be considered approximate to some extent: a lot depends on the type and design of the door on which you decide to stop. For an entrance, for example, a door, it is worth taking a steel sheet of greater thickness or creating a “sandwich” type structure, which consists of two sheets of steel with foam or other insulation between them.

Door frame manufacturing

Work must begin with accurate measurements of the opening. Most often, a standard opening has a width of 800-900 mm and a height of 2000 mm. In order to avoid errors in measurements, it is necessary to “get” to the end of the wall (concrete or brick), knocking off a layer of paint and plaster in a short section and making a cutout with a hammer and chisel in a vertical casing, if any.

This operation should be performed on all four sides outside and inside the opening. When you have decided on the true outlines of the opening, you can take measurements.
After the dimensions of the opening are precisely determined, we begin the manufacture of metal doors with our own hands.

The dimensions of the metal door frame should be such that a gap of 20 mm wide remains between the ends of the walls limiting the opening and the frame. It will allow you to adjust the position of the door during installation in the event that the opening is skewed. Upon completion installation work this gap is sealed with construction foam.

First of all, you need to cut a corner to the size of the box (with a shelf length, for example, 50x25 mm) of the desired length and lay it out on some plane (preferably on a welding table) in the shape of a rectangle. Instead of a welding table, you can use goats verified for flatness. To make sure that all the corners of the box are 90 degrees, you need to measure the lengths of the diagonals. They must be equal. Then the corners are welded.

Door leaf manufacturing

The manufacture of a metal door begins with determining the dimensions of the frame. It must be sized so that there is a gap of 20 mm in height and 15 mm in width between it and the box (see below for the distribution of gaps along the perimeter). Then a corner of the desired length is cut off (a 40x25 corner is suitable) and laid out on a table in the shape of a rectangle, after which the frame is welded.

Immediately after this, a cutout should be made in the profile of the grinder for installing the lock. In order to facilitate the work on the door trim, they hammer into the frame wooden slats required length. Next, a loop profile is welded to the hinges and the box. This is done to facilitate welding work.

It is necessary to measure the distance between the hinges on the frame and the door frame very carefully in order to achieve a perfect match. Otherwise, problems may arise when hanging the door. Then you need to lay the door frame inside the box and achieve parallelism on all sides.

The next step in the manufacturing technology of metal doors involves the preparation of the door leaf. The steel sheet is cut in such a way that the web overlaps the opening by 1 cm, and from the side of the lock - by 1.5 cm. After cutting, scale remains on the edge of the sheet, which must be removed.

The prepared sheet is laid in such a way that the top and bottom edges of the box protrude by 10 mm. From the side of the lock, the box should protrude by 5 mm, and from the side of the canopies - by 15 mm. In several places, carefully grab the sheet to the box.

Then turn the box over so that the sheet is on the bottom. Inside the box is a door frame.

We set the gaps between the frame and the box:

from below (from the side of the threshold) - 10 mm;
top - 10 mm;
from the side of the lock - 8 mm;
from the side of the canopies - 7 mm.

To fix the gaps, you can use improvised means: strips of metal different thickness wheels from a grinder, etc.

Now you can weld the frame to the sheet

It is necessary to cook in small sections: the seam should be no longer than 40 mm, the distance between the beginnings is 200 mm. Welding should be started from the middle to the edges of the product in reverse steps from different sides. The product must be periodically allowed to cool.

Installation of door hinges

Before proceeding with the installation of hinges (canopies), it is necessary to raise the product above the plane of the welding table. To do this, put pieces or profiles under the box. Scheme of a metal door

For the manufacture of loops, a steel bar with a diameter of 20 mm is used. To facilitate the operation of the loops, a steel ball from the bearing is placed in each of them. The hinges are assembled and fixed on the structure in such a way that the upper and lower hinges are aligned. Then the hinges are welded to the box and the door leaf.

The upper part of the loop is welded to the sheet, and the lower part is welded to the box.
After you have welded the hinges, cut off the tacks that fastened the sheet to the box.

The manufacture of entrance metal doors is completed by cleaning the welds and painting. Staining must be done regardless of what kind of finish you plan to do next. The coat of paint will prevent rust by protecting the metal from corrosion.

Lock installation

To install the lock in the shelf of the corner of the door frame, make a cutout of such a size that the lock enters it without a gap. Having installed the lock, you need to mark all the holes: fastening, turnkey, for the handle, etc. According to the markup, it is necessary to drill holes of the desired diameter.

In addition, you need to make holes around the entire perimeter of the door for screws with a diameter of 4 mm, with which boards will be screwed to the door from the inside (one of them should have a cutout for the lock). For fasteners, you can use screws with a length of 35-40 mm.

All cutouts for the latch and various latches in the box are made only when the box is installed and the door is hung. At the stage of installation of the lock, a peephole is also made.

Finishing work

Production of non-standard metal doors involves original finish. The door can be sheathed with wooden planks or canvas, as well as upholstered soft material or paste over with a film with a pattern and texture “under the tree”. A less time-consuming option is to simply paint the door. At the same time, decorative forged elements can be welded onto the canvas, which will transform appearance products.

As you can see, anyone who is at least a little familiar with repair work and knows. While admiring the result of your work, do not forget to note that your decision to do this work yourself allowed you to save a significant amount.

According to the described algorithm, almost all doors are made of metal. Exceptions are found only in the production of special products, for example, when fireproof metal doors are being manufactured.