Laminated parquet laminate. Laminated parquet board - what criteria to choose a product. Main properties of laminated parquet

The roof of any building is one of the most important architectural elements each building. Not only the comfort of living, but also the time of operation of the house depends on its reliability and durability. Repair work can often exceed the cost of building a new roof, in this regard, experienced builders are strongly advised to accurately perform all building codes and rules. It is much more economically profitable not to save on the cost of materials and adherence to technology than to engage in forced emergency repairs of roofs later.

This question worries many inexperienced developers, especially since some unscrupulous builders always install waterproofing under roofing materials, regardless of the type of roof. In some cases, such actions not only increase the total estimated cost of the work, but also have Negative influence on the durability of wooden structures.

Currently, there are two types of roofs - cold and warm. The first traditional for our country, attic space is not used as residential. The second ones appeared relatively recently and are used during construction attic houses. In what cases is it necessary to waterproof the roof under the corrugated board?

Warm roofs

Complex multilayer structures that can significantly reduce heat losses and provide favorable conditions in attic rooms. Heat losses are reduced due to the use of heaters, there are currently quite a lot of them. All of them have approximately the same density and thermal conductivity, but fundamentally differ in hygroscopicity.

For example, polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene do not completely absorb moisture, while mineral wool and ecowool are highly capable of increasing moisture. The presence of water not only critically increases thermal conductivity, but also has an extremely negative effect on all wooden structures truss system.

Conclusion - it is necessary to take measures to protect hygroscopic heaters from moisture and not to prevent its removal in case of getting wet. This means that only modern multilayer membranes should be used for waterproofing warm roofs, they perfectly pass steam, but are completely watertight. Such membranes must be installed on warm roofs, on which mineral wool or other hygroscopic material is used as insulation.

As for the options for insulation with polymeric materials, waterproofing is desirable, but optional. For them, you can use not only expensive membranes, but also cheap films. The task of waterproofing is simplified, it can be impervious to both water and steam, it serves as an additional roofing material.

Prices for PVC membranes for roofing

PVC membrane for roofing

cold roofs

Some builders install waterproofing for them. This is explained by the appearance of condensate on metal coatings, additional protection against leaks, etc. But conscientious specialists do not recommend installing waterproofing for cold roofs. Why?

Waterproofing significantly impairs the effectiveness of natural ventilation, it is with its help that condensate on a metal roof quickly evaporates.
The membrane does not allow visual detection and elimination of leaks in time. Wooden structures rot, the likelihood of damage to the elements of the truss system or undermining metal sheets by gusts of wind increases.

Conclusion - the benefits for non-insulated roofs from waterproofing are very doubtful. And this despite the fact that additional materials and work always increase the cost of the object.

Prices for corrugated board

Decking

General requirements for materials

All requirements can be divided into two large blocks.

Type of requirements	Short description
	Waterproofing materials must be resistant to chemical compounds, not stretch under the influence of static loads, meet environmental and fire safety standards. Materials should be easy to install, have long term warranty operation.
	Density in the range of 0.04–0.06 kg/m2, maximum elongation up to the moment of rupture is not less than 10%. For corrugated board, the vapor permeability of the membrane should be at least 0.75 kg / m2 per day, and water resistance for 10 minutes should be at least 0.5 MPa. physical characteristics must remain stable within the temperature range of -60°С…+110°С.

For waterproofing, it is necessary to purchase only modern membranes that do not retain steam and provide optimal conditions operation of wooden structures and insulation.

Decker waterproofing membrane range

Illustration	Name
	Roofing membrane Decker 120.
	Membrane DEKER 135 is a high strength product. Can be used on a solid crate.
	Decker Wind Facade (roofing) super-diffusion wind-moisture protective membrane.
	Waterproofing membrane Decker Extra 165. It has a grid-like marking that simplifies the cutting of the membrane when installing difficult sections of the roof. It is applied without a gap with a heater or on a continuous flooring.

Step-by-step instructions for installing waterproofing under corrugated board

Before starting roofing work, you need to prepare all the tools, equipment and materials.

Waterproofing membranes

Stopping installation for organizational or technical reasons always has negative consequences. It is better to draw up a preliminary plan of your actions and think through each stage.

For example, consider the option of waterproofing under corrugated board on a warm roof. The attic space will be used as residential. On the roof there are several attic horses and a large brick chimney. Such objects significantly complicate the laying process, require increased care and responsibility of roofers.

Important. Some sections of the roof have a continuous crate, this is due to the peculiarities of the installation of skylights and other special structures. Above the continuous crate, the membrane should be lifted slightly, this facilitates the process of removing steam from the elements.

For this purpose, slats about one centimeter thick are stuffed in such sections of the roof. Fastening is done with small nails.

If you have an electric or pneumatic nailer, great, the work is much faster and easier. On a mechanical hammer, you can accurately adjust the impact force depending on the length and diameter of the nails, it is light in weight and has a replaceable hardware magazine.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Step 1. Install the dropper. With these elements, the installation of all roofs with waterproofing begins. Drippers perform several functions: they protect wooden elements from getting wet, improve the appearance of the roof and drain condensate into the gutter. There is an option when the drippers are far from the elements of the spillway system, water drips onto the facade walls.

The dropper is made of galvanized sheet steel with a thickness of approximately 0.45 mm. Galvanizing is done by hot method, layer thickness is 20–30 microns. The front and back surfaces are covered with protective decorative polymer paints, the color may be different and is selected depending on the characteristics of the metal profile.

The dropper is fixed with studs in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between the hardware is approximately 30–40 cm. Do not forget to overlap 5–10 cm wide.

Step 2 At a distance of about 1-2 cm from the edge of the dropper, glue a special tape. It has a very strong adhesive with high adhesion to painted metal surfaces and waterproof membranes. The dropper must be clean, dry and always fat-free.

Practical advice. Never use regular double sided tape specifications do not meet the requirements. The membrane will come off, the wind will get under it, which greatly reduces the real effectiveness of a warm roof. In addition, there is a chance that snow or rain will fall into the gaps formed. Because of this, the wooden elements of the truss system or sheathing will get wet, they will begin to rot with all very unpleasant consequences.

Step 3 Take the first roll up to the roof, start rolling it out. Constantly check the position of the edge relative to the edge of the dripper. The line should be perfectly flat and parallel. Cut off the excess and fix the ends of the membrane with a stapler, the distance between the staples is 20–30 cm.

Inexperienced builders try to drive a large number of staples with a minimum pitch in the hope that in this way they significantly increase the strength of the fastening. In fact, everything happens exactly the opposite. A huge number of holes significantly reduces the strength of the membrane, the staples seem to cut it. Because of this, even slight tensile forces tear off the waterproofing from the base. Keep this in mind and follow the recommended fastening spacing for hardware and staples.

Step 4 Remove the protective paper strip from the adhesive tape and glue the edges of the waterproof membrane. Firmly press the materials, do not leave gaps, do not allow wrinkles to appear.

Step 5 Nail the vertical slats of the counter-lattice. They fix the membrane to the rafter legs and do not allow it to mix during mechanical loads.

Practical advice. You don't need to stretch the waterproofing too much, it can have two negative consequences. First, slight fluctuations in the truss system due to wind and snow loads can break the material. Three times - drops of condensate fall under wooden slats and provoke their accelerated decay. If the membrane sags a little, then the water flows down the hollows.

The step between the nails is about forty centimeters, the slats can be soaked with antiseptics. Step 6. If a cornice board is fixed to the rails, then their ends must be prepared. This is done in several stages.

Step 6 Attach a special mesh that protects the under-roof space from birds and large insects.

Nail the first rail of the counter-lattice, place it as close to the cornice as possible. Why? The closer the screws for fastening the first metal sheet to the edge are screwed in, the stronger roofing. The shoulder of the acting forces on the separation is reduced, the moment of separation is automatically reduced. As a result, the reliability of fixing roofing increases.

Important. Nail the first rail very precisely under the level, it is considered a reference element and all the rest are installed along it. This is exactly the case when you need to measure seven times, and nail once.

Step 7 On the extreme rails, mark the distance between the counter-lattice, beat off the lines with a special chopping rope and continue to assemble the structure along it.

Continuation of the installation of the counter-lattice

Step 8 Nail the cornice board to the ends of the vertical rails.

Chimney waterproofing

These works must be done carefully and in strict accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturers of waterproofing membranes.

Step 1. Glue a special double-sided adhesive tape around the perimeter of the chimney; it is sold complete with a membrane. The height of the hem is approximately 10 cm, stick the adhesive tape at the same distance.

If the surface of the chimney is finished decorative plaster, then the adhesive tape sticks to it hard. To facilitate the process, use a rubber mallet and protective paper. Attach wax paper to the tape and hit it with a hammer, the adhesive tape will be strongly pressed through and glued over the entire area of decorative plaster.

Step 2 Roll out the membrane on the slope until the roll rests against the chimney. Look carefully at what length and from which side you need to cut the material. It is necessary to make such a decision that the membrane has a minimum number of cuts and fits snugly against the chimney around the entire perimeter. Do not rush to cut, try to foresee the consequences of each action. Remember that no adhesive tape will provide the same reliable waterproofing as material without cuts. Use only a very sharp knife.

Step 3 Remove the protective film from the adhesive tape and stick the material tightly to it.

This must be done in the following sequence:

again glue the tape around the perimeter at a distance of about 5 cm from the first line. There is no need to maintain exact dimensions; in any case, these materials will be covered with decorative metal strips in the future during the installation of a metal roof;
cut off pieces of the membrane of the appropriate size, the length should be 15–20 cm longer than the dimensions of the pipe planes;
glue each piece with an overlap of 5-10 cm.

Fakro XDP - salary roof window which is based on a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane

Installation of FAKRO waterproofing around the window

Step 4 Continue laying waterproofing according to the usual technology until the slope is completely finished. Make a kink on the ridge and mount the membrane on the other side of the roof.

Further, during the installation of profiled sheets, do not forget to leave holes to ensure effective operation of natural ventilation. Otherwise, the life of the roof will be significantly reduced, and very complex and expensive repairs will be required.

Be sure to follow the safety rules when working at height, no roof is more expensive than health. Safety ropes do not restrict movement, as it may seem, they do not interfere with work. On the contrary, with insurance, workers move more confidently and faster on the roof, which increases labor productivity.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

We hope that laying waterproofing under corrugated board will no longer create problems. You just need to choose the right type of coverage. Comparative characteristics various kinds there is corrugated board

Video - Installation of waterproofing

Waterproofing is a necessary element of the roofing pie, regardless of how the corrugated roof is equipped: according to the principle of a warm or cold roof.

No matter how well the roof is made of corrugated board, moisture can penetrate into the under-roof space through the joints of the roofing sheets and at the points of their attachment to the crate, causing damage to the supporting structures and ceiling finishes.

The reasons why waterproofing is installed under a cold roof from corrugated board

Precipitation

Decking cannot 100% exclude the possibility of moisture getting into the under-roof space of the house. Heavy rain or snowfall combined with intense wind can cause moisture to enter under the roof, which in turn will provoke corrosion.

Wear of fasteners and roofing modules

The peculiarity of the corrugated board is that its sheets are subject to thermal deformation, as a result of which the roof can pass moisture along the junction line of the roofing modules. Often, water penetrates under the roof and at the points of attachment of the corrugated board to the truss system, since over time the tightening of the screws weakens, and the rubber sealing washers are destroyed. The ingress of water into the under-roof space is fraught with wetting of the truss system with its subsequent decay, and as a result, the destruction of the roof frame.

Condensation

At quality installation corrugated roofs, when the roofing reliably protects the house from atmospheric moisture and leaks, theoretically, you can do without waterproofing.

But sources of moisture are not only rainfall from the outside. It is also condensation that forms on the inner surface of the roof due to the temperature difference inside and outside the house.

The likelihood of condensation becomes even higher when engineering communications pass through the attic: heating and hot water pipes, ventilation ducts or a fireplace chimney. Liquid and gaseous media circulating through such pipelines usually have an elevated temperature and heat up the air in roof space, contributing to a more intense appearance of condensate.

What is suitable for waterproofing a cold roof under corrugated board

The main conditions that a hydrobarrier must meet for cold roof from a professional flooring is moisture impermeability, mechanical durability, resistance to temperature influences.

The most budgetary, but short-lived version of waterproofing is plastic film. Reinforced polyethylene membranes have slightly better strength characteristics. But against their background, polypropylene films and anti-condensate membranes, equipped with a non-woven viscose-cellulose layer, actively absorbing excess moisture, win significantly.

As an under-roof waterproofing for non-insulated metal roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles, the waterproofing membrane Ondutis D (RV) is optimally suited.

Conclusion

The ingress of even a small amount of moisture under the roof negatively affects not only the reliability of the roofing, but also the durability of the building structures of the whole house.

Properly selected waterproofing film is the key to a long service life of the roofing and interior decoration attic or attic space.

If earlier slate was widely used to cover the roof of a house, then nowadays there are much more materials that look great, are practical and durable. One of them is corrugated board - a universal metal profile used for various purposes. You can choose corrugated board of any color and cover the roof with it without any problems. It is a reliable and durable material, suitable for both warm and cold roofs. But, corrugated board cannot completely exclude the ingress of moisture into the attic. After all, even oblique rain with a strong wind or blizzard will penetrate under the roof. In addition, the attachment points of the corrugated board itself can let moisture through when the sealing washers are destroyed over time or they are weakened by the tightening of self-tapping screws during thermal deformation of the sheet. This phenomenon negatively affects not only the insulation material, but also the entire structure of the cold roof. So the coating will not serve you for a long time and may collapse. To eliminate this problem, waterproofing of the roof of the house under corrugated sheets is mandatory.

But a number of questions arise: what kind of waterproofing is needed? What functions does it perform? Do I need a waterproofing layer under the cold roof corrugated board? How are the works performed? Let's look at the answers to these questions.

The functionality of the waterproofing layer

What is waterproofing for corrugated board? This is a rolled material with which the roof is sheathed. If it is warm, then the material is attached directly to the heat-insulating layer, and on a cold roof, the waterproofing is attached to the crate. In this case, the waterproofing material is laid first, and only then the roof can be covered with corrugated board.

Note! The waterproofing film is often a special membrane that is not affected by ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes, etc.

Waterproofing performs many tasks that are very important from a technical point of view. The main one is the protection of materials inside the roof from the harmful effects of moisture. If the roof is insulated, then the insulation will rot and lose its properties. And what about the installation of a cold roof? After all, there is no insulation, so there is nothing to rot. Is it then possible to make a roof from corrugated board without waterproofing? Not recommended. Indeed, in addition to insulation, the roof also has other structural elements, such as rafters, crates, etc. If moisture enters, the material will also deteriorate. Wood will rot and metal will rust. Waterproofing is done so that precipitation does not penetrate inside, and the condensate that forms on the inside of the corrugated board is removed through special gaps.

Advice! If, however, you decide to make a cold roof without waterproofing, it is important to ensure good ventilation in the attic. This requires holes in the gables of the wall or in the filing.

To understand how much waterproofing is needed for the roof of a house, we will give a simple example. Without it, the entire roof structure and its elements will serve you half as much. Therefore, if you want to extend its life, its device is necessary. But, before doing waterproofing under corrugated roofing, it is important to choose the material. What should be considered when buying?

material requirements

You should know in advance what you are taking, since the assortment in stores is large enough, you can get confused. The product must meet the following requirements:

resistance to various influences, both physical and weather;
the ability to withstand heavy loads without loss of original properties;
have an elongation at break of at least 10%;
do not fall under the weight of the liquid, which may accumulate on the surface;
do not emit harmful substances when heated;
strength, reliability and stability, material density from 0.04 to 0.06 kg/m2;
the material must meet standards and be environmentally friendly;
have a long service life;
so that it can be easily laid;
be fireproof (according to GOST 30244–94), water and vapor tight (not less than 0.75 kg/m2 per day).

If the waterproofing meets all these requirements, then you can be completely sure that the roof of the house will be reliably protected and will last you much longer. It is clear that the price of the material will be rather big, but still, the quality is above all. Now, let's look at exactly what materials are used to waterproof a cold roof under corrugated board.

Materials for waterproofing works

To perform waterproofing, two types of materials are most often used - polypropylene films and membranes. If your budget is limited, you can be content with plastic wrap. It has a high hydro and vapor barrier, it protects both the structural elements and the insulation (if any) with the highest quality. The material is made of polyethylene fiber, and to give the film greater strength, it can be additionally reinforced with a special fabric or mesh. There are non-perforated and perforated polyethylene films. Some are intended for vapor barrier, others for waterproofing.

Nevertheless, if you want to have high-quality sheathing that can last 30–50 years, then use membrane materials. This is a modern waterproofing material, which in its own way technical properties and parameters meets all requirements. The material easily releases steam, which is formed during the convection process, prevents corrosion of the corrugated board, rotting of the crate and rafters, and absorbs noise. The membrane film is made of a synthetic fiber with a microstructure that has a high vapor permeability. There are two types of material - diffusion and superdiffusion. The former have characteristic small holes. But if the material is pressed tightly against the insulation, then they will overlap. Therefore, it is important to provide a ventilated gap. The latter have a higher coefficient of vapor and waterproofing. They can be mounted without ventilation gaps. The price of the material is slightly higher.

Now, let's look at how you can install waterproofing under a cold roof.

Step-by-step instructions for roof sheathing

So, if you bought the material, you can proceed with its installation. Roll material is laid on top of the crate even before the corrugated board is fixed. The packaging has special instruction, where mono find out which side to attach the film. It is necessary to move horizontally in the direction from the ridge to the eaves or from the bottom up in overlapping layers. What kind of overlap is needed depends on the slope. If the roof has a slope of less than 30˚, then overlap at least 15–20 cm, and if the slope is 12–30˚, then it should be 25 cm.

Note! If waterproofing work is being carried out hipped roof hip type, then the overlap of the film on the ridges must be added by 5 cm.

It is better to connect the edges of the waterproofing with a special adhesive tape so that the joints do not let moisture through. How is the film fixed? With the help of metal brackets directly to the crate.

To ensure high-quality fastening, slats are stuffed with galvanized nails over the film to the crate. So the technology is:

The first strip of film is laid, starting the process from the bottom. The roll rolls across the rafters.
With the help of a construction stapler, the film is fixed on the roof of the house. Alternatively, you can use galvanized nails with a wide hat.
Lay the next strip higher, moving in the direction of the ridge. Do not forget to overlap, in accordance with the slope of the roof.
After the two sheets are ready, reinforce them with a counter rail, the width of which is 2–4 cm.
So cover the entire area until you reach the ridge.

The same must be done on the other side. When everything is ready, you can start waterproofing the roof ridge of the house from corrugated board. Find out exactly how this can be done in the following video.

As a result, we can say that roof waterproofing is very necessary and must be done both with a warm and cold roof. Then you will significantly extend the life of the entire roof.

Vapor barrier on the roof under corrugated board
Colored corrugated roof
How to make a roof from shingles
Weathercocks - spiers on the roof

The roofing pro-thinned-out metal sheets - one of the most widespread roofing materials. The popularity of corrugated board is due to the democratic price, ease of installation, low weight. However, along with the obvious advantages, this material has no less noticeable disadvantages. One of them is increased condensation. Under certain conditions, heavy dew falls on steel sheets, both outside and inside. Because of this, at times a little rain literally drizzles under the roof. Wooden structures and insulation have to be protected from condensation. The authors of some articles posted on the Internet argue that a waterproofing layer should be located under the steel sheets and even allow themselves to give advice on the choice of material. However, in fact, waterproofing under corrugated board is not needed, and sometimes it is contraindicated.

What moisture insulating materials are used in construction
Waterproofing
vapor barrier
Windproofing

What is a roofing film (membrane) Roof over a cold attic Roof over a warm attic Video: why waterproofing is needed What moisture-insulating materials are used in construction

It should be understood: by no means all materials designed to protect against moisture are waterproofing.

Waterproofing

Absolutely waterproof, withstands a fairly large water pressure (continuous flow of water), is very durable and resistant to atmospheric influences, ultraviolet radiation, which allows it to be used outdoors. Waterproofing is arranged during the construction of hydraulic and underground structures, foundations of buildings, flat roofs. Waterproofing materials include bitumen and bitumen-polymer roll insulation, mastics, polymer membranes, special cement-polymer penetrating compounds, and bentonite clay slabs.

On device flat roof waterproofing layer can simultaneously serve as a roof covering

vapor barrier

As the name suggests, it does not let water vapor through. Both rolled waterproofing materials and polymer membranes cope with this task, but they are inconvenient for use in light wall and roof structures. It is much easier to attach thin and light reinforced polyethylene vapor barrier films to the frame. And yes, they are much cheaper. The vapor barrier is also waterproof and can protect from rain. But it does not have sufficient mechanical strength and resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which does not allow the use of vapor barrier in the open, but only under the protection of roofing, wall cladding.

For the installation of roofs, mainly reinforced polyethylene and polypropylene vapor barrier films are intended. Mounted roof structures in the warm season it is allowed to leave it uncoated for a couple of months, under the protection of vapor barrier alone. It will protect the wood from precipitation. But not longer, the resistance of the film to ultraviolet is limited, it may also not withstand the snow load

Windproofing

Wind and moisture insulation for a roof is able to protect the fibrous insulation from wind blowing, to a certain extent delays liquid water, but at the same time freely passes water vapor. Due to such selective properties of moisture transmission, wind-insulating films are also called diffusion membranes. They can be made of polymer fibers (non-woven canvas) or perforated film, there are also combined options.

Due to the presence of pores, the diffusion, wind and moisture protective membrane allows water vapor to pass through. But the size of these pores is so small that water drops that have fallen on the surface do not penetrate the film. The force of surface tension does not allow this to be done. However, if the membrane is moistened for a long time and abundantly, it will sooner or later get wet, “leak”. The windshield is not suitable as a protection against heavy rain; immediately after its installation, the roof should be covered with a roof covering

What is a roofing film (membrane)

It is clear: if the film is roofing, then it is placed directly under the roofing. One of its main functions is to protect the rafter system and insulation (if any) from condensate, which can fall abundantly on profiled metal sheets. Any of the above will work. insulating materials: hydro (steam) insulation, diffusion membrane (wind insulation). However, these are not all the tasks that the roofing film is designed to solve. What exactly is required of it and how to choose the right roofing film (membrane) directly depends on the type of roof. Consider two types of roofs: cold attic and warm attic.

Recently, there has been a tendency to call vapor barrier a roofing film, and wind and moisture insulation - a roofing membrane. This is not quite the right use of terms, but it just so happened. The main thing is the difference in the physical properties of these materials.

It is important to know: unfortunately, the Internet is full of confusion on this topic, and ignorant sellers of building materials, illiterate builders also contribute. Often, wind and moisture insulation and vapor barrier are called waterproofing. This is wrong, you need to understand that this is not the same thing, materials have different physical properties, intended for different types roofs

Roof over a cold attic

There is no need to insulate the attic roof, but you can ventilate it by arranging holes in the gable walls or filing.

In our case, the fundamental difference between a cold attic and a mansard (combined) roof is how they are ventilated, how excess moisture is removed from wood and insulation

Thus, moisture from the inside of the attic is removed thanks to good internal ventilation, it is only necessary to protect the structures from condensation that forms on the underside of the roofing. Installation of a waterproofing under a professional flooring is possible. Once upon a time they did this, they rolled roofing material under wavy asbestos-cement sheets (slate). Theoretically, you can use old linoleum, sheets of plastic, tin and other unnecessary trash that does not let water through. However, a special vapor barrier film will last longer, it is easier to fix it, and it is very inexpensive. Can also be used diffusion membrane, but there is not much point in this: it will cost more, and its properties to pass water vapor will be unclaimed.

The cold attic roof structure must include a vapor barrier film

Important to know: for a cold attic roof, the best roofing film is a vapor barrier, but any type of moisture-wicking material will do.

Roof over warm attic

The mansard roof has to be insulated, and the insulation and wooden structures have the ability to absorb moisture from the air. It will not work to ventilate them from below, from the side of the premises, the air there is more humid than on the street. On the contrary, from the inside, the roof must be protected from moisture by covering the rafters with a vapor barrier film. The only way to prevent the wood and mineral wool from dampening is to ensure their ventilation from the outside, be sure to leave a ventilated air gap of at least 4 cm high between the roofing and the roofing film. (diffusion membrane).

Correct design mansard roof and walls frame house. From the inside, the structure must be protected by a vapor barrier, from the outside, wind and moisture protection. But not vice versa!

Important to know: only suitable option roofing foil (membrane) for standard construction mansard roof- diffusion membrane.

There is a variant of the combined (mansard) roof, in which a vapor-tight hydro or vapor barrier is used as a roofing film. But in this case, it is necessary to ensure effective ventilation of the space both above and below the film, the total height of the ventilation gaps will reach 10 cm. This solution is effective, but complicates the design and is rarely used. Please note that the under-roofing film (4) closer to the overhang is brought out over the steel apron (15), and that one - into the gutter drainage system. This should always be done, this is to ensure that condensate drains outside the roof structure.

In conclusion, we say that not only the comfort of living in the house, but also the durability of the building depends on how correctly the roof structure is selected and the materials for its installation are selected. If you do not have sufficient knowledge in the field of construction, do not have the time or desire to delve into the intricacies modern technologies, best solution will entrust the execution of responsible work to experienced professionals.

Video: why waterproofing is needed

Waterproofing is a necessary element of the roofing pie, regardless of how the corrugated roof is equipped: according to the principle of a warm or cold roof.

The reasons why waterproofing is installed under a cold roof from corrugated board

Precipitation

Wear of fasteners and roofing modules

Condensation

With a high-quality installation of a corrugated roof, when the roofing reliably protects the house from atmospheric moisture and leaks, theoretically, you can do without waterproofing.

But sources of moisture are not only rainfall from the outside. It is also condensation that forms on the inner surface of the roof due to the temperature difference inside and outside the house.

The likelihood of condensation becomes even higher when utilities pass through the attic: heating and hot water pipes, ventilation ducts or a fireplace chimney. Liquid and gaseous media circulating through such pipelines usually have an elevated temperature and heat up the air in the under-roof space, contributing to a more intense appearance of condensate.

What is suitable for waterproofing a cold roof under corrugated board

The main conditions that a hydrobarrier for a cold roof made of corrugated board must meet are moisture impermeability, mechanical strength, and resistance to temperature effects.

The most budgetary, but short-lived version of waterproofing is plastic film. Reinforced polyethylene membranes have slightly better strength characteristics. But against their background, polypropylene films and anti-condensate membranes significantly benefit, equipped with a non-woven viscose-cellulose layer that actively absorbs excess moisture.

As an under-roof waterproofing for non-insulated metal roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles, a waterproofing membrane is optimally suited

Laminated parquet, according to experts, has about 10% of sales on the flooring market, which is not so little. What attracts potential buyers of laminate is the ease of installation and operation, as well as low cost and a wide variety of patterns.

Laminate parquet - is it parquet?

Where did the termite "laminated parquet" come from? However, this phrase misleads many consumers. Firstly, real parquet is not laminated, there are varnish, mastics and oils to protect it, and secondly, the laminated coating has nothing in common with real parquet, except appearance. Yes, and that is just a skillful fake - the top, decorative layer that creates a beautiful picture is often made of special paper or furniture foil, which is given the desired look.

This parquet is made entirely of whole pieces wood, each floorboard is cut and planed to match the right size. The pattern we see is a real tree pattern. When choosing parquet or laminate, keep in mind that the first one can be scraped and sanded, varnished or varnished, which cannot be done with a laminate.

The fact is that the laminate consists of 4 layers. The topmost, protective layer, consists of high-strength resins, melamine or acrylic. This lamination gave the coating its name. The protection is transparent, so many unknowingly confuse it with varnishing, but the varnish coating membrane is much less durable. In addition, the protective coating on the laminate can be composite - consist of several elements, each of which will be responsible for a specific task: moisture repellency, wear resistance, resistance to ultraviolet radiation and pollution.

Under the protective layer is the same decorative layer that we wrote about above. By the way, manufacturers reproduce not only wood drawings, but also many other, more original ones, for example, the colors of a chessboard or a sandy coast. The thickest layer, the core of the laminate, is the carrier layer of high-strength chipboard or fiberboard. And already under it is the bottom coating, resin-impregnated paper, which protects the core from moisture.

Considering that chipboard is made from the same wood, the content of this natural material in a laminate can reach 95% for US and European manufacturers and about 50% for Chinese products. But, nevertheless, this does not make laminate parquet - it is most correct to call it laminate flooring, or simply laminate.

If you are looking for something in between parquet and laminate, pay attention to the parquet board - not to be confused with solid parquet.

In the second case, we are dealing with an expensive coating, the creation of which takes a lot of wood - the floorboards are large and fully reflect the pattern of the wood core. It takes several times less to produce a wood parquet board. The fact is that it consists of three layers: the lower and middle layers are made of inexpensive coniferous species, but the upper one is made of precious wood.

Its thickness is only 3-4 mm, so it can be repaired by standard methods only 1 time. Well, if it lasts at least 20 years, it will not be enough for more. But it is just as easy to install as a laminate, and can even be moved to another place. This is handy if you decide to minor repairs in a rented apartment - when you move out, you can take the cover with you.

Parquet - how is strength determined?

In addition to mobility, the laminate has enough other advantages. It does not need to be sanded, sanded or varnished - after laying the surface is immediately ready for use. High-quality laminate does not fade in the sun, and any stains are removed with a solvent. It is impossible to give an unambiguous assessment of environmental friendliness and safety, since different manufacturers use different technologies and components. However, if you wish, you can find a hypoallergenic laminate that is completely harmless to a sensitive body.

Of course, for such a type of product as laminated parquet, there is GOST 4598-86, but it poorly reflects really important standards, moreover, laminate certification is considered a voluntary matter. Where it is more correct to focus on the European system for determining the quality of laminated floors, which was adopted in 1999. Under this system, each coating class is tested in 18 tests for abrasion, scratch resistance, aggressive substances, impact resistance, etc. According to the results, a verdict is made about belonging to one or another strength class.

However, most consumers are aware of only one such test - the taber test. The question that is asked to the seller to find out about the results of this test usually sounds like this - "How many revolutions?". The announced figure is for many an indicator of the strength of the laminate. How are these same turnovers determined and what is meant? The test consists in the fact that an abrasive wheel with special parameters is pressed against the front side of the product, which simulates wear conditions. Depending on how many revolutions of the circle the laminate can withstand until it is completely worn out, the degree of its wear resistance is determined - usually the figure obtained is in the range from 6,000 to 20,000 revolutions.

However, there are many "buts" in this test. Firstly, there is no universal grinding wheel and tool - each manufacturer uses the equipment that he considers correct (or profitable). That is, a taber test of the same product from different manufacturers can stun you with completely different results.

In addition, during the test, the initial phase is first evaluated in the form of IP (initial phase) - the resulting figure indicates the number of revolutions that lead to the first signs of wear. Then the value of FP (final phase) is determined - this is the final phase of the study, when the degree of wear has reached 95%. From these two values, the arithmetic mean (AT, TT or simply T) is calculated.

One can only guess what exactly manufacturers indicate on price tags or price lists, since in most cases it is just a number without any letter designations. We have to rely only on honesty, because it will not be difficult for the manufacturer to correct the data, and it will be impossible to convict him of deceit. For example, instead of the average value, the company will indicate the number of revolutions that fell on the final phase. It seems that she did not lie, but the information is no longer accurate.

Laminated parquet - strength classes

For ease of understanding and convenience, European manufacturers have introduced a classification of laminate flooring, which has been picked up all over the world. The class indicates the degree of wear resistance determined by the test results.

So, classes from 21 to 23 are intended for rooms with a low and medium degree of walking. For example, you can safely place class 21 in the bedroom, bed 22 in the nursery, and class 23 in the kitchen or in the hallway. For office or shop premises there are classes from 31 to 33. Class 31 is suitable for rooms with relatively low traffic, for example, for a presentation room or an assembly hall. Class 32 and 33 should be laid where laminated parquet will be subject to special loads.

In addition to the class, you should also pay attention to the warranty period, which can tell a lot. For example, if a manufacturer gives only 5 years for class 31, while a competitor gives all 10, this indicates that in the first case the parquet meets only the minimum requirements for class 31, so the company is not too confident in its strength and durability.

Laying laminate flooring - simple precautions

Lay laminate flooring no more difficult than assembling a children's designer - the panels quickly and accurately connect to each other. It is much more difficult to prepare the base for the laminate so that it is as even as possible. The traditional concrete screed is only at first glance even, but when laying, a lot of tubercles and pits will be found.

In such cases, it is recommended to lay a material under the laminate that could smooth out minor defects, for example, technical cork sheets. The larger the defects, the thicker the sheets should be. If this does not help, self-leveling self-leveling floors will help level the surface. If the surface does not have a slope, then a layer of 2-3 millimeters is enough to smooth out the bumps.

Don't be afraid to spend time prepping the surface, then you'll save it on the simplicity and installation of the laminate itself. It is not recommended to lay it on an uneven floor - if a separate part oscillates due to a tubercle or falls into a hole, this will lead to breakage of the locks and violations of strength.

It is best to make such a coating floating, that is, do not attach it to the base. Like any wood material, laminate also reacts to changes in humidity and temperature, so it can contract or expand. Therefore, it is important to leave a small space between walls, pipes and edge strips, at least 5 mm. If you want to lay the same canvas in all rooms, in any case, make transitional thresholds to avoid swelling of the floor.