How to make a floor in a steam room. Repair of the floor in the bath: replacement, installation, useful tips. Floor in the bath - different options for arranging a quality base

With good flooring, it is much nicer and more comfortable. Therefore, a double floor is made in the locker room, that is, first a rough floor, and on top - a finishing floor. Traditionally, a Russian steam room is equipped with a wooden one or. When arranging the base, do you always think about how to make it warm?

Wooden floor

Warming

How to make a floor with a gasket in the bath? As thermal insulation material expanded clay, glass wool and perlite are used. The gasket is prepared from the following components: perlite (3 buckets), cement (1/2 bucket) and water (1.5 buckets). The resulting mixture is poured onto concrete in a thin layer. Such a foundation is considered reliable and durable.

Specialists also make water heated floors. They consist of pipe systems that are in a screed. They also make electrical warm bases by mounting electrical cables.

Ventilation

Conclusion

It decorates the steam room - it becomes comfortable in it, and the body receives a charge of vivacity and health prevention for many years. If professionals take up the matter, the floor in the bath will be installed correctly.

Upon completion of the assembly of the frame of the bath structure, you can do interior finishing work, among which the procedures for arranging floors occupy a special place. In this article we will try to talk about how to make the floor in the bath with our own hands from wood and concrete, we will give step by step guide as well as photo and video instructions.

First of all, it should be noted that both wood or concrete, as well as ordinary ceramic tile(in some cases, floors can be made directly on the clay).

The main thing to focus on when carrying out work is to ensure the normal outflow of used water. We also note that when finishing floors in “hot” rooms, in no case is it allowed to use synthetic materials (linoleum, for example), which, when heated, can release toxic and harmful substances.

Particular attention in the production of such work should also be paid to the insulation of the flooring, which most directly affects the comfort of the procedures taken. In those cases when you decide to make a concrete floor, be sure to make sure that it is covered from above with wooden flooring or special cork slabs that provide comfortable washing conditions.

Wooden

From the foregoing, it follows that before you make the floor in the bath, you will definitely need to decide on the material used to make it.

Wooden floors are recommended to be made from coniferous wood (fir, pine, larch or spruce); and in this case you can use two options. The first of them involves the arrangement of a continuous, water-impervious coating, and in the second case, the floorboards are laid with a small gap, providing a free drain of washing waste.

Solid or "non-leaking" floors are made by embedding the lag directly into the clay or setting them on concrete (preferably with a slight indentation) followed by a dense covering with tongue and groove boards. But before that, a classic screed is made on the concrete surface, which has a slight slope towards the drain. At the same time, at a certain point, on the edge or in the middle of the room, a collection of drains is installed, connected to the sewer system of your home.

The preparation of the so-called leaking floor is usually carried out according to the following scheme:

First, well-leveled and compacted soil is covered with a layer of gravel with sand, which is subsequently poured with liquid concrete.
In its shape, the poured surface should resemble a funnel with gentle slopes and with a center at the place of collection of wastewater (with a protective grate installed in the drain).
Then they are mounted on brick columns wooden logs, serving as the basis for placing the flooring.
And at the end of the work, edged floorboards are laid on these logs with a gap of 5–6 mm.

When arranging such a floor, take care of the waterproofing of the columns supporting the logs by lining sections of roofing felts or roofing felt, folded in several layers, under them. In the absence of bricks, fragments of old concrete slabs can be used as a support. You should also pay attention to the fact that it will be possible to start preparing the floors in the steam room and washing room only after you have completed the installation of the water drainage system and prepared the foundation for the stove.

We must not lose sight of the need for antiseptic treatment of wood structural elements, and also do not forget about the ventilation of the spaces under the floor, which ensures their safety. In particular, the removal of wet fumes can be organized through the use of a furnace blower.

Concrete floor in washroom and steam room

Many experts consider the arrangement of the concrete floor in the bath to be an economically correct and profitable solution. The long service life of concrete speaks in favor of this method of arranging the floor. A quality screed can last more than 30 years. Among the advantages of this floor it is worth noting:

Resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity.
Doesn't rot.
Concrete does not develop harmful microorganisms and fungi.

To care for the concrete floor, you do not need to buy expensive household chemicals. In addition, you have the opportunity to decorate the floor, for example, with tiles.

The bath uses a lot of water. This suggests the need for arranging a drain. Before concreting the floor, a drainage system should be designed and implemented. To do this, you need to determine the point that will most easily equip the sewer system. At this point, an intermediate tank should be placed, which can be made in the form of a small pit, having a size of 40 × 40 × 30 cm. The simplest method for processing the pit is concreting, with a layer of at least 5 cm.

Then, from this tank, drainage should be made into a manhole / septic tank. For these purposes, you can use fan pipe having a diameter of 200 mm.

The soil should be leveled and then rammed. Then fill the floor with coarse gravel 15 cm thick. Gravel can be replaced with a brick fight. The next layer of crushed stone is 10 cm thick.

After the crushed stone has been compacted, a layer of concrete 5 cm thick should be poured. It should be made with a slope towards the preliminary wastewater tank.

To significantly reduce heat loss in the bath, the concrete floor should be insulated. This is done after the first layer of concrete has cured. Expanded clay can be used as a heater. It needs to be covered with a layer of 5-8 cm.

This is not the only insulation that is suitable for arranging a concrete floor. Often, building felt or mineral wool is used for these purposes. But, it is worth considering the fact that when laying mineral wool as a heater, you will have to additionally waterproof it. Roofing material can be used as a waterproofing layer.

Between the floor and the wall should be filled with bitumen.

Another option for floor insulation is pouring cement mortar with perlite (a rock of volcanic origin). It has been used in this direction relatively recently. The advantages of this component are high water absorption and thermal insulation characteristics.

Perlite is a very light material and must therefore be handled indoors.

The batch is done in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is important to strictly follow the instructions that are indicated on the packaging for the product.

A second concrete layer should be poured onto the insulation or waterproofing (depending on the insulation material you installed). In this case, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh (it can be wire or reinforced mesh) before pouring concrete. In order for the concrete to be strong as a result, it must be tamped, leveled with a rule, and the tightening concrete should be poured on top.

For pouring the screed, a sand-cement mortar or a self-leveling mixture is used. If tiles will be used to decorate the floor, then it is better to buy a cement mixture designed for this purpose.

The screed must be poured in one go, so you need to act quickly. Start pouring from the far corner, leveling the solution with a trowel. You need to tighten it with the rule in a circular motion, which would be directed towards the exit from the room. After the screed should harden, this process takes several days.

With the addition of plasticizers, the hardening process of concrete is accelerated. They, among other things, enhance the strength of concrete, securely connect the constituent components of the mortar together and prevent the possibility of cracks.

The screed fully hardens in 3 weeks. In the first week, it must be watered from time to time.

The surface quality is determined after the concrete has completely dried. If the screed has a uniform gray tint, then this indicates its uniformity. In addition, there will be no visible marks from a hammer blow on durable and high-quality concrete.

Ceramic tile is most often used as a concrete floor finish in a bath. The tile will also look spectacular. A significant disadvantage of tiles is that when wet, it becomes slippery, which increases the risk of injury. Therefore, on the practical side, it is better to lay metlakh tiles on the concrete floor.

You should not use baths in the premises (even in those in which there are not such high performance temperature, as in a steam room) linoleum and other synthetic coatings. The fact is that in the process of heating, substances are released from them that can lead to intoxication, that is, severe poisoning of the body.

Auxiliary premises

In rooms with a low level of humidity and relatively low temperature, it is allowed to use laminate and linoleum prohibited for steam rooms. In the dressing room, such a coating is covered over a special flooring, which makes it possible to dry the floors. When using such a base, the flooring is double, consisting of a rough and finishing flooring.

When working with the floor, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

the optimal height of the floor base above the ground is considered to be a level exceeding this mark by at least 30 cm;
for the manufacture of natural wood flooring, edged or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of about 25–35 mm are selected;
laying logs on brick columns in such structures is mandatory.

The procedure for arranging floor coverings in a bathhouse made in the old Russian style, in fact, is no different from the procedures described above (taking into account the fact that the floors in the steam room can even be earthen). Before preparing them, you will need to do the following operations:

Along the perimeter of the base, at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation, soil is first selected (to a depth of about 45–50 cm).
The resulting site is filled up to the required level with a mixture of fine gravel and sand, and then carefully compacted.
The boards are laid directly on the prepared base, which is quite consistent with the floors made according to the old methods.

Video

This video will answer the most frequently asked questions about the floor in the bath:

A photo

Scheme

These schemes will help you in arranging the floor in the bath:

The technology and process of arranging floors in a sauna steam room and a washing department differ significantly from the principles of constructing floors in residential and utility buildings.

To provide effective system drainage, ventilation, hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of laying. Properly equipped floor in the bath ensures the rapid removal of effluents and maintaining the microclimate in the room.

Often the floor for the bath is made of wood or concrete. It is difficult to determine which floor is better, since each type of base has its own operational features and characteristics that should be considered when arranging a private bath.

Concrete floor

Wooden floor

The wooden floor is simpler and more affordable in the arrangement, but less durable than the concrete counterpart. Already after 10 years of active operation, individual elements of a similar design are subject to reconstruction or replacement.

Floors from boards can be made from coniferous and hardwood, resistant to moisture and temperature extremes. The wooden base is represented by two types: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaking type floor

This a budget option structure, presented in the form of a wooden lattice, the individual elements of which are installed in compliance with the gaps for the free discharge of wastewater into the ground.

The leaking floor does not provide for the installation of a complex drainage system and additional insulation. For this reason, a bath with a similar floor is recommended to be used in the summer or in regions with a warm climate.

Such a base is available for self-arrangement, in addition, and repair work will not cause technical difficulties. In this design, the floorboards are not attached to the logs, so if necessary, they can be dismantled for drying or replacement.

Non-leakage type floor

A non-leaking floor has a solid structure installed on, which are embedded in the ground or concrete base. For efficient drainage, it is carried out at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

For the installation of a solid floor, a tongue-and-groove board made of larch or pine, mounted on supports, is used. High-quality boards for the floor should not have deformations and defects.

The top flooring is laid on the subfloor, which is previously insulated with a moisture-resistant material.

A bath with this type of floor can be operated throughout the year at any temperature.

The choice of consumables and basic calculations

The device of the floor in the bath provides for the use of building and thermal insulation materials, waste pipes made of metal and plastic, galvanized fasteners.

What is better to make the floor in the steam room and sink? Quantity and type Supplies depends on the type of floor construction and how it is installed.

Concrete Floor Calculations

For installation work you need to prepare:

Fine sand for backfilling a layer 12 cm thick. Material volume (O) \u003d (3 × 3) × 0.12 cm \u003d 1.08 cubic meters. m.
Expanded clay for backfilling before thermal insulation with a layer thickness of 30 cm. Material volume (O) \u003d (3 × 3) × 0.30 \u003d 2.7 cubic meters. m.
Expanded polystyrene sheets extruded for thermal insulation. The thickness of the insulating layer is 10 cm. The number of sheets for a room of 9 square meters. m - 2.5 packs.
A mixture based on cement and sand (ready-made or homemade). The thickness of the screed is from 6 to 12 cm. The average dry mix consumption is 18 kg/sq. m. Concrete layer in 1 cm = (3 × 3) × 18 kg / sq. m = 162 kg. For a 6 cm layer: 162 × 7 = 1134 kg or 63 bags of ready mix.
Reinforcement mesh for fixing a concrete layer measuring 5 × 5 cm.
Rolled roofing felt for waterproofing a sand cushion from an expanded clay layer.
Metal profile for beacons under the screed. For a steam room of 9 sq. m. will require 18 meters of profile.
Plastic drain pipe up to 5 meters long, with a cross section of up to 3.2 cm, siphon and swivel elbow.

Calculations for a wooden floor

As a working example, the calculation of materials for the installation of a wooden floor in a steam room of 9 square meters is given. m.

To build a simple floor of a leaky type, you will need:

Bar for the subfloor measuring 3 × 3 or 4 × 4 cm along the length of the beam. The distance between the beams is 0.5 meters, the total amount of material is 30 meters.
Unplaned board for a base up to 25 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick. For one section you need: (300/25) × 0.5 = 6 meters. For decoration of 5 floor sections: 5 × 6 = 30 meters.
Guide bar for creating a drain slope with a section of 2 × 3 or 3 × 3 cm.
Bar for fixing logs under the finishing base with a section of 6 × 6 cm.
Rolled or sheet roofing felt for waterproofing. For a steam room, 16 meters of material are needed, taking into account allowances.
Basalt wool roll 8 cm thick for thermal insulation.
Galvanized steel sheets up to 0.6 mm thick - 11 sq. m. material.
Polymer pipe, elbow and drain for installation in the drain. To ensure proper drainage, the installation of the elbow with the connected pipe must be carried out at a right angle.

Concrete floor installation technology

The arrangement of the floor begins with the preparation of the soil inside the foundation - cleansing from debris and dirt.

The layout of the monolithic base is as follows:

The soil is carefully compacted and leveled. The inner walls of the foundation are treated with bitumen in several layers.
On the preparatory stage a sewer pipe is laid through the foundation. To do this, it is enough to make an inlet in the base and install a metal adapter for supplying a plastic pipe.
The sewer pipe is brought to the place where the drain hole is provided. The end of the pipe is plugged to prevent blockage.
A sand cushion up to 12 cm high is poured onto the ground, moistened and rammed.
Next, you need to put the roofing material on internal walls bases with an overlap of 15 cm. Additionally, the joints are treated with bitumen-based mastic.
Expanded clay up to 35 cm thick is laid, leveled and rammed. 8 cm remains to the edge of the base.
Expanded clay is covered with a film 200 microns thick, and the joints are glued with construction tape. Thermal insulation is installed on top of the waterproofing.
After the foundation is insulated, guides for pouring concrete are installed in increments of 55 to 95 cm. Lighthouses are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.
When installing the guides, it is important to observe the required slope for proper water drainage. In this case, the beacons are set strictly according to the level.
At the bottom of the walls around the perimeter of the room, a damper tape up to 12 cm high is fixed. After pouring and drying the concrete screed, the remaining tape can be removed.
The concrete is poured with the prepared mixture and left to dry completely.

Important! 5 days after pouring, the beacons are dismantled, and the existing voids are filled with a mixture. The first 10 days the floor is thoroughly moistened with water up to 3 times a day.

Leaking wood flooring technology

A step-by-step guide for installing a leaking floor provides for a phased execution of work: preparing the underground, installing a log and wooden flooring.

Underground preparation

In order for the water that enters the underground to be discharged into the ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the base - for this, the top layer of the earth is cut off and the waterproofing cushion is backfilled from fine gravel up to 26 cm thick.

For soils with low level moisture absorption, the soil is removed at a slight angle, and the drainage is organized into a 30-cm pit through the sewer. The soil is covered with clay and leveled.

Important! Before backfilling the pillow, supports are installed under wooden logs, and a foundation is also erected for heating equipment.

Installation of support logs

How to properly install the lag? They are mounted on concrete supports equipped with a brick stand. The height of the lag bookmark is determined by the height of the pillars ( columnar foundation) or tapes (strip foundation).

The installation of the lag is carried out opposite the short wall of the building. To avoid deformation of the lag or their swelling, the supports are covered with a double layer of waterproofing made of roofing material treated with hot bitumen.

To ensure natural ventilation when laying the log to the walls, minimum technological gaps of 4 cm should be observed.

wood flooring

To lay the floor, use boards that are fixed perpendicular to the installed lags. In this case, it is necessary to observe the indents between the individual elements of the floor - 5 mm, between the boards and walls - 2.5 cm. The wooden shield is fixed to the logs using metal nails.

Leak-proof wooden floor laying technology

The device of the wooden floor in the bath provides for the installation of support logs similar to the previous option, with the formation of an inclined surface for efficient drainage.

Installation of the floor in the bath is carried out in the following order:

Organization of the water intake system. The first stage of installing a non-leaking floor is the organization of a water inlet measuring 45 × 45 cm, located between the supports and thermally insulated with a solution of clay or cement. The depth of laying the water intake is 35 cm. At a height of 3 cm from the bottom of the receiver, a pipe is installed at a slight slope to discharge wastewater into a drainage well or pit.
Subfloor installation. After mounting the lag on the support poles, the subfloor is fixed - a filing made of cheap material, for example, a second-rate board. Hydro, heat and vapor barriers are laid on the boards in layers to protect against moisture.
Fixing the finish. On the installed logs, a finish coating of a tongue-and-groove board with a low moisture absorption coefficient is fixed. Along the perimeter of the room from the walls, a gap of 2 cm is observed for natural ventilation. Boards are fixed with nails at an angle of 50 degrees. Finally, a decorative plinth is mounted.

Important! Wall cladding is carried out over the installed plinth to prevent the collection of condensate under the plinth.

Effective protection of logs and flooring from decay

In order not to rot the floor in the bath, experts recommend treating it with a heat-resistant water-based varnish. Such a coating is able to withstand heating temperatures above 100 degrees, providing the surface with reliable protection from high humidity, hot steam and pollution.

A protective varnish is applied to wooden base brush in several layers. Works are carried out in a well-ventilated room at an air temperature of 4 to 28 degrees.

If a wooden floor is being installed in a leaky type bath, then a protective composition is applied to the finish coat and to the supporting logs.

Laying floors in a bath is a complex procedure that depends on design features building, its size and type of foundation. But, despite the technical difficulties, any owner of a private bath will be able to master the technology of laying floors with his own hands.

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands if all the necessary work is done correctly. The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the base preparation, the choice of insulating materials and the finishing coating. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath

How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme operating conditions floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly reduce the life of the floor.

The choice of a specific method of arranging the foundation in a "damp" room depends on such factors:

method of heat and waterproofing;
type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
seasonal use of the bath;
type of soil under the building;
structural features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. In a frame building, which is used only in the warm season, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.

Types of wood floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood elements to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made from coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.

All types of wooden coverings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:

Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
- simple installation;
- low cost of floors;
- no need to install a drain system.
Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
- long period of operation;
- good thermal insulation of the room;
- the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.

Necessary tools

The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. From the quality of installation work associated with the device sewer system and styling floor materials depends on the microclimate in the room. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

The device of a concrete base is possible with the following tools:

concrete mixer;
lighthouses;
rule (for alignment);
building level;
container for solution;
shovel.

To make a wooden coating, you will need other tools:

hammer;
jigsaw (angle grinder);
plane;
roulette;
nails.

To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider a step-by-step guide to laying wooden and concrete floors.

Standard floor construction

The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located 8-9 cm above the zero level. In this case, the temperature in the room will remain at the required level for a long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:

waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
bars under a wooden crate;
draft coating;
insulating materials(insulation, waterproofing);
logs for assembling the crate;
heat and water insulators;
lining;
air bag;
wood and concrete layer;
decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of underfloor heating begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:

In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, represented by broken bricks or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
Then the laid materials are well compacted.

Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors

To make a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of adding the necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.

First step:

10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
The components are mixed;
Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
The mixture is well stirred;
Then add about 5 more liters of water;
Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Can be improved if needed specifications composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:

10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.

Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer

If the area of the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?

The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
Level the mixture using the rule;
So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.

As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:

bituminous mastic;
polyethylene film;
roll roofing material.

After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:

mineral wool;
polystyrene;
penoplex;
granulated expanded clay;
foam concrete.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, expanded clay is the optimal insulation for concrete surfaces. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Filling the finishing screed

Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:

Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.

In addition, you can make a wooden base in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which you cannot do when pouring the screed.

Laying wooden floors

How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

Construction of support posts. To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars, secured with steel brackets. When arranging floors in a bathhouse built on pile foundation, laying the lag takes place on the mortgage crown;
Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam plastic). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, ventilation holes are made in the foundation for better air circulation;
Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, on which draft boards are thrown. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. After that, the wooden crate is sheathed with a grooved board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.

It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.

Despite the high temperatures in the steam room, below it rarely exceeds 30 degrees, but on the floor it is constantly high humidity. Therefore, when arranging the floor in such conditions, there are some peculiarities.

In this article, we will tell you about how the floor is made in the bath on the ground, the preparation process and the layout of the wooden floor.

Types of floors for a bath

In most cases, it is the floor made of wood that is chosen for: it is not slippery, it is cheaper, and it is easy to install.

Concrete types are usually chosen for public saunas, since from intensive use the wood would have to be changed every 2-3 years.

A leaky wooden floor is made in cases where it is necessary for moisture to freely pass through the gaps between the boards and be removed from the subfloor to the outside. Compared with other types, this design has simple technology the buildings. This option is only suitable for warm regions, as it does not have thermal insulation.
Leak-proof wooden floors are made from tightly joined tongue-and-groove boards.. The slope of the floor in the bath is done towards the drain ladder, which will ensure the removal of moisture into the sewer system or drain pit.
Such a floor cake in the bath allows you to make waterproofing, vapor barrier and insulation, which distinguishes it from the previous version.
It does not make sense to make a non-leaking floor in the steam room, since the price of the structure increases greatly, and there will not be much water there. For ease of cleaning, you can make a two-sided slope of the floor.
Concrete floor screed has an advantage over wooden species in high durability. A screed will last you 30-50 years, and a tree less than 10 years.
Although the cost of its installation is even higher, in terms of performance, concrete outperforms wood.

floor construction

As a rule, the installation of the floor in the bath in the steam room is done on an elevation relative to the zero mark of the finishing floor. It is enough to raise it by 7-10 cm and the heat will be better preserved in the steam room.

In the washing department, on the contrary, the height of the floor in the bath is made lower so that water does not penetrate into other rooms.

Basic materials

It is believed that in the question of which floor is better in the bath, larch is out of competition. In terms of hardness and wear resistance, it is comparable to oak, and from moisture it only becomes stronger. The only disadvantage of its use is the high cost.

Similar boards made of pine or spruce will cost 2-3 times cheaper. If it is possible to use larch for moderate money, then it is better to choose it. If not, then you can buy grooved boards of birch, pine, spruce, fir, alder. Draft floor - in the baths can be made of pine to save money.

An important rule to follow is to lay only dry boards. Raw wood during operation will greatly change its size and shape.

The thicker the board, the more it will deform. Boards with a thickness of 21-25 mm will change the least size, but they will sag. To fix this, you can lay the logs more often. The best option are boards of 35 mm with a width of 12 cm.

For insulation, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are most often used.

Hydro and vapor barrier is made of a vapor barrier membrane, such as Izospan. Its advantage is that it passes moisture only in one direction. Due to this, on the one hand, moisture does not pass inside, and on the other hand, excess condensate and steam are removed. This allows you to keep the insulation always dry and it does not lose its characteristics.

Also in this case we will use:

Bar 70*100 mm;
Logs 50*180 mm;
Cranial bars 40 * 40 mm;
Plywood or cutting boards 20-25 mm thick to make a double floor.

Dismantling the old floor

If you are re-laying the old coating, then first of all you need to dismantle the old floor of the frame bath.

It will be necessary to remove the top layer of soil, about 25 centimeters, to get rid of the fungus that has got into the ground. Old boards should be burned immediately.

Advice!
Concrete walls can be heated with a construction gas gun to destroy all fungus.
Additionally, it must be treated with Anti-mold to remove the remaining pores of the fungus.

Below the floor level, an elastic coating waterproofing is made.
A layer is laid on the ground sand filling, leveled, carefully rammed.
Then fiberglass and Izospan vapor barrier are laid on the sand. From above they need to be sprinkled with another layer of sand. This is necessary in order to protect the bottom of the floorboards from moisture, fungus and decay. Sheets of insulation between each other must be glued with adhesive tape.

Advice!
If a rat hole was found in the foundation, then it must be sealed with concrete with the addition of liquid and broken glass.

Pie and gender features

In this example, the floors in the bath on the ground are used. To obtain the desired level of elevation, beams 70 * 100 are mounted on the posts before laying the log.

They will take on part of the load, evenly distribute it, increase strength and simplify the leveling of the base.

First of all, waterproofing from two layers of roofing material is laid on the foundation and brick pillars.
Then the retaining beams are laid. Their edges will lie on the foundation, and 1-3 columns support them in the center.
Logs are attached to the corners on top of the beams. They must be cut from both sides in length to the center by 2 cm to create a slope.
The cranial bars are nailed to the bottom of the lag, forming an inverted "T". They are needed for fixing the subfloor, so there is no need for special strength here, any self-tapping screws or nails will do.
The subfloor boards are laid, and a vapor barrier membrane with an overlap of 20-30 cm is attached on top of them. Then it will need to be glued together with the waterproofing of the walls.

On the subfloor and closed with a vapor barrier. It is attached to the logs with a stapler. The joints are sealed with tape.
At the end, the flooring of the finishing floor from the grooved board is attached. To hide the attachment points, they are fastened with self-tapping screws into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Note!
Under the finishing floor, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm.
To do this, you can use higher logs, or stuff additional bars of the counter-lattice on them after attaching the vapor barrier to the insulation.

Production of retaining posts

To eliminate the deflection of the support beams from a high load, you need to make additional supports (chairs) in weak places. Naturally, the center of the beams and the place under the stove will be the weakest places. Chairs can be made of wood, brick, concrete.

Instructions on how to make concrete columns with your own hands:

To make concrete posts, mark the places for their installation and dig holes 40 cm deep.
At the bottom of the pit, you need to pour a 25 cm layer of sand and gravel for the substrate and compact them well.
From the boards, make a formwork approximately 25 * 25 cm (1 brick in size) and up to a height. Lay roofing material on the inner walls of the formwork.

Advice!
You can make a fixed formwork of columns from asbestos-cement, sewer PVC pipes or twisted roofing felt.

Tie a reinforcing cage with wire in each column of bars with a diameter of 10 mm.

Prepare a solution of cement, sand and fine gravel (in proportions 1:3:5).
Before pouring, make a mortgage in the center of the column for easy fastening of the beams. It is best made from a threaded stud.
Pour the columns to the same level and leave them to dry for at least a few days. They will gain full strength only after a month.

Subfloor installation

Advice!
Treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic before starting work.

Lay and secure the support beams to the foundation. Pay attention to the fact that a temperature gap of 1 cm is maintained from the edges of the logs and beams at the junction with the wall. They are attached to the foundation with anchor bolts 12 * 140 mm.
To make it easier to cut the remaining joists at the same angle for the drain, use one of them as a template.

When laying the subfloor, you can use almost any board, since it is needed only for laying thermal insulation. At the same time, be sure to treat them with an antiseptic anyway and remove the bark before laying.
We attach the waterproofing to the lags on the stapler every 10-15 cm with an overlap and an overlap on the walls.
The insulation is laid close to each other, with offset joints. Mineral wool should not be crumpled, but cut exactly to the size of the cells.

Then, in the same way, we attach another layer of vapor barrier to the logs.

Finished floor laying

We fasten the first sheathing board with an indent from the wall 1-2 cm from above to the self-tapping screw. Try to make it as close to the wall as possible to hide the hat with the baseboard.
We fasten the subsequent boards in a groove to the previous one. For their tight docking with each other, make a doboynik with a spike. Through it, you can knock out the boards with a hammer, without fear of damaging the docking elements.
If even stronger docking is required, then make pegs with a spike. By nailing metal staples to the joists, you can use them to weddle the boards, as shown in the photo.

To hide the heads of the self-tapping screws, all subsequent boards are fastened from the side of the groove, screwing the self-tapping screws there to the logs at an angle. To ensure that the boards are pressed tightly and do not crack, you need to drill holes before that.
When installing the last board, it will need to be cut to width with a circular saw. You need to fix it in the same way as the first one, with self-tapping screws from above.

Conclusion

Making a wooden floor frame bath, you can be sure that it will last for at least 10 years of active use. If you want to make a floor heating system, put a tiled floor in the bath, make a drain, then you need to make a screed.

The video in this article shows self-laying the floor in the bath.