Waterproofing the walls of the frame bath. Methods and features of warming a frame bath. What to look for when choosing a material

Insulation of the bath inside and out

Everyone understands that no matter what the frame structure is, it requires high-quality insulation. In relation to the bath, this is perhaps especially true. The steam room should keep the temperature approximately in the range of 60-90 degrees for a long time. C. Achieving like temperature regime possible with good insulation designs.

Why frame? Well, it seems that it’s even unnecessary to explain - the comparative simplicity of erecting frame structures speaks in their favor.

Thermal insulation of the bath

A well-insulated frame construction of a bath is no worse than a wooden frame

A well-insulated frame construction of a bath, of course, costs money. But not exorbitant. Especially if you do it yourself. Yes, and it's worth it, knowledgeable people say that it pays off. This is understandable, because any room with good thermal insulation heats up faster and cools longer, which reduces fuel consumption. At the same time, the bath will warm up to the required temperature in a shorter time, and it will cool down more slowly, it “holds” the steam more reliably.

For the so-called heater (as the popular stove design for baths is called), a relatively gentle regime of temperature changes is preferable on the simple basis that it can significantly extend the life of such a stove. A wooden structure a well-insulated bath is less prone to rotting. There is no doubt that insulation is important. It is only necessary to approach this wisely and choose the right material and thermal insulation technology. Not forgetting the environmental friendliness of materials.

If you are interested, watch a useful video on this topic on how to insulate a bath without harming your health:

Choosing the right insulation

Warming scheme

The result will depend on how we cope with it. The choice of the modern market is extensive. There are options for insulation for frame buildings. In my opinion, it’s not so important what you settled on, in the end, the choice is influenced by both the price and availability of this or that material in your area. The main thing that it makes sense for you to pay attention to is that the selected material is light enough, and not only because it will be easier for you to work with it by definition if you do everything yourself, but and above all because, after all, frame structures Initially, they do not imply large loads. Also thermal insulation material for warming the bath, it is desirable to take fire-resistant and non-toxic (as far as possible).

For more information on materials for insulation (thermal insulation), see.

Light frame bath construction can be well insulated different ways. Affordable and labor-intensive options for insulation using both predominantly natural materials and purely synthetic ones. Let's look at some popular materials.

Reed slabs

Relatively lightweight non-combustible material with excellent thermal insulation characteristics.

The thickness of such plates varies depending on the manufacturer. 15 cm blocks are considered optimal for thermal insulation.

TIP: Since in this case we are dealing with natural material, do not forget that it can be a favorable environment for the reproduction of various kinds of insects, so it is recommended to treat reed blocks before use, for example, with a solution of iron sulfate.

sawdust-gypsum mixture

Sawdust + gypsum in a certain ratio (10: 1) are also considered the best budget option for insulation frame bath, because it has good thermal insulation qualities. Instead of gypsum, cement is often added to the mixture in approximately the same proportion. Both are important in this case as a binder.

Synthetic (polymer) boards

Polymer-based blocks are represented by such familiar materials as expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), polyurethane foam (PPU), etc. They are easy to use, therefore the most popular. So most often, when it comes to how to properly insulate a bath, without really worrying (I apologize for the pun), they choose polystyrene foam - as the easiest option. Having nothing against them, here I advise you to think carefully about fire safety. Styrofoam does not burn so much as it begins to release extremely harmful substances in the first minutes of ignition, which can quickly lead to serious consequences. You can learn more about this here.

Floor insulation

If the bath will be used in winter, a cement screed or a mixed structure must be made in the steam room and washing room

Warming of the frame bath includes such milestone like floor insulation. The first step is to insulate the actual space under the floor. It is quite accessible to anyone. Under the floor, most often we are covered with a layer of expanded clay or furnace slag. In the "dry" auxiliary rooms of the bath (dressing room, bathroom, steam room, etc.), it is better to equip solid floors that perfectly retain heat and are relatively simple to manufacture.

TIP: Before laying heat and waterproofing, treat the boards with an antiseptic!

So, logs and a subfloor are laid on the floor, the boards of which are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. Next, a layer of insulation is placed on the floor (it can be either sheets of the notorious foam plastic, or mineral / basalt). Then the insulation is covered waterproofing film. The finished floor in the bath is usually mounted with tiles or grooved boards.
This is what concerns dry rooms.

With washing and steam room, the situation is a little more complicated.
In this case, the floor must be isolated to the maximum from moisture. And on the insulation layer you need to lay two layers of waterproofing material. After that, a concrete screed is made at least 5 cm thick (otherwise it may not support its own weight). To enhance strength, the screed can be reinforced with mesh. As a finishing layer in the washroom, you can lay tiles.

wall insulation technology

The insulation of the walls of the bath is somewhat different from the insulation of conventional buildings.

Wall insulation technologies in a frame bath are not difficult. A wooden or metal crate is attached to the walls, where we lay sheets of thermal insulation (foam plastic or something else that we stopped at). I emphasize that the insulation must be covered with a layer of waterproofing, which is then sewn up with finishing material (for a bath, lining or siding is often chosen).

ATTENTION: The waterproofing layer must not be damaged. It should be as complete as possible. In any case, waterproofing has a weak link - its connections and joints. Therefore, they are made with an overlap. Moreover, the joints should be stitched with thin strips. If it is polyethylene, its pieces are often simply welded.

When mounting such a "sandwich", a small space (1.5-3 cm) should be provided for ventilation between the insulation and the cladding.

Insulation of the roof of the bath and other structural elements

Having successfully insulated the walls, we move on to the roof. Only correct installation ceiling insulation will prevent excessive heat loss through the roof.
The presence of 4 layers of roof insulation is considered correct:

outer skin layer;
Vapor barrier layer;
Thermal insulation layer;
Wooden flooring (boards).

It is important to remember that warm air rises due to convection, so the thickness of the ceiling heat-insulating layer should be thicker than it is done for walls - the ceiling layer is optimal in thickness of about 12-15 cm.

Those who undertake to build and insulate with their own hands frame bath, I advise you to watch at least this video:

Finally

External insulation of the frame structure of the bath allows you to further reduce heat loss. Accordingly, the thermal insulation layer applied to the walls (facade) of the building will also protect the building from weather troubles in the form of precipitation and wind.

Again, it must be admitted that in order not to inflate the construction budget, most often for this purpose they manage with ordinary and familiar polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam). Outside, this material is more than appropriate. Lightweight foam boards are perfectly glued to the walls with adhesive solutions, which today the market offers in abundance. As for the finishing of the walls, any cladding is used. Someone uses lining, someone siding.

If we talk about windows and doors, then, of course, it is desirable that the windows and door blocks tightly joined so that excess heat leakage does not occur. Joints and possible gaps today are not difficult to eliminate with the help of special sealants. You can read more about sealants. The room will be more securely protected if you use two- or three-layer thermal packs.

If you also insulate the door with seals, you will get an excellent bath. And it does not matter that this is not the usual log cabin, but a frame structure. Its performance characteristics with good thermal insulation will not yield. Frame buildings with competent heat and vapor barrier perfectly store heat.

Related videos

Frame structures require insulation, especially when it comes to buildings such as a bathhouse with a steam room or a sauna. Since their direct functional purpose is to maintain a high temperature for a long time, then design features must meet these requirements.

Careful warming of a bath or sauna eliminates heat loss in the room, helps to maintain a high temperature for a long time.

Based on practical observations, insulated structures heat up and warm up faster, and cool down more slowly. On these parameters, there is a financial saving on fuel, which pays for the costs of the work performed on the organization of vapor barrier and insulation.

Properly executed waterproofing prevents the increased negative impact of moisture on wood and the frame bath will remain in its original state for a long time.

Insulation of a frame bath begins with a vapor barrier

Material for waterproofing should be selected with a high threshold of resistance to high temperatures. These materials include:

Metal foil - creates the effect of a thermos, combines the functions of a heater and a reflector, does not let water through.

1. Roofing material - has a low cost, but due to its large weight it is inconvenient to install. It is good as an addition to insulation, but when heated, it releases bad smell molten resin.
2. Parchment is harmless, does not emit odors, but has low strength. During installation, it often breaks, which cannot but affect the quality of the waterproofing.
3. Polyethylene film is the most common and inexpensive way moisture protection. With large dimensions, light weight, flexible structure, which greatly facilitates installation when covering large areas.
4. Foil - does not let water through. Adds additional points to the coefficient of insulation, creates the effect of a thermos.

With the combination of several types of waterproofing materials and the absence of joints, high-quality vapor barrier and protection against premature decay of wood are obtained when the frame bath is insulated. To solder the resulting seams, heat-resistant silicone sealants are used.

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The choice of insulation for the frame bath

When choosing heaters, one should focus on their behavior when exposed to high temperature and high humidity, and not on thermal insulation characteristics. This is due to the fact that when the bath or steam room is heated, substances harmful to health will be released.

The following materials are currently on the market:

1. Synthetic materials - slabs of foam, polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene. Plates or rolled version of mineral wool or ecowool. All options are lightweight, which can not but facilitate their installation.
2. Reed slabs - have good performance as heat insulators, fireproof and lightweight. Dimensions and thickness vary by manufacturer.
3. Sawdust mixed with gypsum, cement or clay - the proportions for all options are the same - 10 to 1. A very inexpensive option, but should be used with caution and not in all parts of the bath.

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Installation of the insulation layer is carried out according to the following scheme:

• a vapor barrier layer is laid on the ceiling boards;
• insulation is laid with a thickness of at least 15 cm;
• on the logs, the outer skin of the boards is laid over the insulation.

If foam or similar insulation is used in one layer, then the joints must be foamed mounting foam. When laying insulation in several rows, it is necessary to ensure that the seams of the layers do not match. When using a sawdust mixture, it must be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the ceiling, filling all existing cavities.

What to do with the stove when insulating a frame bath. Between the furnace and the wall it is necessary to lay out an additional brick refractory screen. This measure will protect the insulation and finish from heating and possible damage. On this section of the wall, asbestos slabs will be the best insulation. As a finish, you can use plaster products, which can be glued with heat-resistant glue or mortar.

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Insulation of the floor of the frame bath

This is the most important and costly stage in the process of warming the bath. In those parts of the bath where washing is not provided, you can only use expanded clay, insulation and a double layer of waterproofing. But it's not very suitable option because situations are different. Open access to water and the absence of stacks, even in such rooms, can lead to premature decay of the wooden parts of the floor.

The best option is to add a concrete screed to this structure over the waterproofing and arrange a slope for the water stack on it. In dry bath rooms, a frame is built over a concrete screed, and then boards are laid. In direct wash rooms, floor tiles and rubber bath mats can be laid on the concrete screed.

It is also possible to organize a wooden floor, but the boards are laid with small gaps so that the water passes unhindered to the stack and does not linger on the surface. For convenience when walking on the floor, one-piece or cellular rubber mats are laid.

Reading time: 11 minutes

Modern bath attendants often assemble frame bath complexes, since this technology has many strengths, cheaper than analogues. If the insulation of the frame bath is not done correctly, it will be impossible to achieve an optimal comfort indicator. Therefore, when building a building, it is important to take care of the thermal insulation of the premises.

Features of heat transfer in buildings

The process of heat transfer in frame buildings depends on the following factors:

• waterproofing;
• vapor barrier;
• wall thickness;
• number of layers of thermal insulation.

The quality of ventilation in the room is also important. It can be natural or forced.

Thermal insulation methods

Many owners of steam rooms do not know how to insulate a frame bath. Thermal insulation methods:

1. The classic way of warming when carrying out construction works. This is an obligatory stage in the construction, sheathing of the frame. The insulation is located inside the walls, between the layers of hydro and vapor barrier.
2. External insulation of the frame. This is an additional measure that is needed when insufficient internal insulation. Foam plastic is used for thermal insulation, which is glued on top of OSB panels, frame sheathing.

It is necessary to think in advance how many layers of insulation it is better to sew into the walls. This will avoid unnecessary work.

Types of heaters

There are many heaters for a frame bath, each of which has certain pros and cons. Styrofoam - versatile material, which can be used not only as a heater. Advantages:

• low price;
• universality;
• resistance to prolonged exposure to moisture;
• ease of installation.

Styrofoam ignites when exposed to an open flame.

Mineral wool is a popular type of insulation material. Advantages:

• resistance to fire;
• durability;
• minimum shrinkage;
• ecological purity.

Mineral wool quickly becomes unusable when moisture gets on the surface. Therefore, you need to do reliable waterproofing without gaps.

Ecowool is the most unpopular material for warming baths. For him, you need to buy a flame retardant, an antiseptic. Ecowool ignites quickly when exposed to an open flame, it is afraid of water.

Glass wool is a classic insulation that is gradually losing popularity. You need to work with glass wool carefully, wearing protective equipment - gloves, a respirator, glasses, a robe. Glass wool particles can get on the skin, cause redness, severe itching.

Liquid insulation is a good but expensive option for thermal insulation. When working with this material you need:

• have practical skills;
• use special protective equipment.

If it is not possible to call a team that will fill the empty spaces in the walls and floors with a liquid composition, it is recommended to choose a foil material. Advantages:

• low price;
• ease of installation;
• heat reflection.

When choosing a material for warming a bath, you need to pay attention to the requirements that it must meet:

• environmental Safety;
• resistance to moisture, temperature extremes;
• resistance to fungi, mold.

If the material does not meet most of the requirements, it cannot be considered as a heater.

Principles of work

To insulate a bath, you do not need to have any practical skills. It is enough to study the theory, perform the work as indicated in the instructions.

Wall insulation

Peculiarities:

1. It is necessary to carry out thermal insulation at the construction stage, when the supports are erected.
2. Mineral wool slabs are located in the central part of the frame walls, covered on both sides with layers of vapor barrier.
3. At the last stage, the surfaces are sheathed with OSB boards, they undergo a decorative finish.

The best option for arranging thermal insulation of walls in a bath is to use two layers of insulation. It is important that one be in the form of plates, the other - a roll.

Wall insulation around the stove

Warming features:

Asbestos slabs can be used to protect surrounding surfaces, but many attendants believe that this material is harmful to the body. It is better to choose an analogue - basalt fabric. On top of it, you can fix a reflective sheet of metal that will shield thermal energy.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling and floor

Floor insulation process:

1. Fill the soil with a screed.
2. Roll out a roll of roofing material from above, cut it over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe screed.
3. Lay out insulation boards.
4. Spread a layer of waterproofing on top.

It remains to fill the last layer of the screed, wait for it to dry completely before performing the following work.

Ceiling insulation:

1. Fix the vapor barrier layer on the ceiling with a construction stapler.
2. Install heater.
3. Fix the final layer of vapor barrier.

It remains to fill the decorative trim for the ceiling in the bath.

Protection of insulation against moisture ingress

For protection, you can use:

• foil;
• special fabric film.

The most important thing is that there is ventilation inside the wall. Without it, condensate will accumulate, which will lead to the destruction of thermal insulation, the formation of mold on the wood.

Common rookie mistakes:

1. The vapor barrier is installed on the wrong side. This leads to damage to the insulation.
2. The integrity of the walls is broken, the lining is damaged, due to which wet steam gets inside.
3. Insufficient protection of surfaces around the oven from heat.

Without thermal insulation in a frame bath, it is impossible to achieve an optimal level of comfort. Walls, ceiling, floor will freeze quickly, the heat will not be enough. To restore the level of comfort, you need to properly insulate the walls, floor, ceiling.

Frame buildings require thermal protection, especially when it comes to a bath with a steam room, since this room should have a high temperature for a long time. Careful thermal insulation, made by hand, will minimize heat loss.

Materials for thermal protection of frame baths

When choosing a heater for a frame bath, it is necessary to take into account not only the heat-insulating characteristics of a particular material, but also its ability to withstand significant temperatures at a constant temperature. elevated level humidity.

In addition, the heater for the bath building, when the room is heated, should not emit toxic compounds that adversely affect the health of people taking the procedures.

In order to improve the thermal insulation parameters, the warming of a frame bath, such as in the photo, can be done using the following materials:

1. Mineral wool. Its plates consist of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or waste from metallurgical enterprises. In the process of weaving a large number these fibers retain air between them, so that the products have excellent thermal insulation qualities. As a result of the peculiarities of the production of mineral wool, the material can withstand very intense heating, despite the fact that its performance does not change. Such plates in conditions of high humidity retain heat-saving properties and do not collapse.
2. Reed slabs. They are natural and environmentally friendly heat insulators. Their thickness is 15 centimeters and this parameter is very convenient when building frame structures.
3. Insulation from sawdust-gypsum mixture. To make it, you need to mix 10 parts of dried fine sawdust with 1 part of cement (gypsum). Warming the frame bath from the inside using this mixture has a significant advantage - affordable cost and excellent thermal insulation (read: "").
4. Foamed synthetic products- polyurethane foam, polystyrene, etc. They have a number of advantages, including low price, immunity to moisture, ease of installation, low weight, low thermal conductivity. But these synthetic heaters cannot be mounted on the elements of a bath building, where exposure to high temperatures is possible, therefore, they are used to insulate walls that are far from the furnace. They are placed in the dressing room, rest rooms or washing department.

Arrangement of vapor barrier

Before you start work, you need to know how to properly insulate the frame bath in order to perform it efficiently. Regardless of which of the materials was chosen as a heater, when laying it in the frame cells, it is necessary to provide reliable vapor barrier (in more detail: "").

If you do not cut off the insulation from the atmosphere of the bath with its high humidity, it will absorb water in the process of cooling the steam, which will certainly lead to the most undesirable consequences:

• a wet heat insulator will significantly increase its own thermal conductivity and heat will quickly move from room to room. environment;
• the porous structure will not allow the material to dry quickly, which means that mold may appear and the frame of the building will begin to rot.

Thus, when a frame bath is made, the walls are insulated using high-quality vapor barrier.

• aluminum foil - will not only protect the insulation from moisture, but will also reflect thermal energy;
• polyethylene film;
• glassine is environmentally friendly and inexpensive.

It is undesirable to use roofing material, since in the process of heating it begins to smell unpleasant. When installing a vapor barrier, even the smallest gaps should not be allowed to remain between the pieces of material. The tightness of the joints is ensured with the help of metallized adhesive tape, or by overlapping adjacent canvases.

Insulation of the walls of a frame building

To equip the thermal protection of the frame bath building begins simultaneously with the construction of its walls. The fact is that the use of this technology assumes that the heat insulator is also structural material. When a do-it-yourself shield bath is built from a heater, its layers are laid out between the supporting elements of the frame. A vapor barrier is mounted on top of it.

At the end of the insulation work, a kind of pie is obtained, in the center of which there is a heat-insulating material, sheathed on the inside with vapor barrier, and on the outside with waterproofing.

The outer layer of the cake will be represented by decorative trim inside the bath rooms, and outside - by facade cladding. Both of these layers will not only become additional thermal protection, but will also serve as a structural element that will increase the strength of the entire building.

Among professionals the best option it is customary to consider laying two layers of heat-insulating material into the bath frame. In this case, it is desirable to make the first of them from tile insulation, and the second from rolled insulation. As a result, such a thickness of the walls of the frame bath is able to reliably protect the premises from heat loss.

In the process of laying insulation Special attention you need to pay attention to the fact that most materials have different sides - external and internal. To distinguish them, pay attention to the recommendations of product manufacturers.

Thermal insulation of the wall next to the stove

For the wall frame and insulation, located close to the sauna stove, it is necessary to create additional protection to prevent high temperatures from affecting them. The best choice when solving this problem, some experts consider the use of asbestos sheets and plates.

But since there is an opinion about the dangers of asbestos for human health, it is advisable to choose more modern options, including needle-punched mats, isolon, basalt fabrics and others. All of these materials withstand temperatures of several hundred degrees and therefore are able to provide absolute fire safety.

Refractory protection is mounted in one of two ways:

• top decorative trim;
• directly on the vapor barrier.

It is pointless to equip a vapor barrier using a polyethylene film, since it will melt near the sauna stove. The best solution aluminum foil will be used, which, in order to ensure tightness, is glued with heat-resistant foil tape.

Thermal protection of the ceiling and floor

In the frame bath building heat losses occur not only due to walls, since a considerable amount of thermal energy leaves the room through the ceiling and flooring. Accordingly, the procedure for insulating a frame bath provides for their thermal insulation.

Insulation is laid at the stage of floor installation, following a certain procedure:

• pre-prepared and compacted soil is poured with a concrete screed;
• create a waterproofing layer from a dense polyethylene film or roofing felt;
• laying plates of heat-insulating material;
• equip external waterproofing;
• pour another layer of concrete base.

When insulating the ceiling, they use the method that is used when laying a heat insulator in the walls of a frame bath building:

• vapor barrier is fixed on the ceiling;
• lay heat-insulating material;
• attach the second layer of vapor barrier;
• do the finishing touches.

There is one difference compared to the order of wall insulation, when there is no gap between the vapor barrier and the sheathing - there must be free space when insulating the ceiling. Due to the gap decorative trim the ceiling will dry faster, because during the operation of the bath it is constantly exposed to hot vapors.

Thermal insulation of the bath with foam

If a decision is made to make thermal insulation using this material, then it is necessary to equip the room with high-quality ventilation, since it does not allow steam and air to pass through. The fact is that when a foam bath is built with their own hands, they cannot insulate the steam room due to the negative impact of high temperatures on it (read also: ""). Besides cheap material may contain toxic compounds.

The logic of designing residential buildings, dachas and baths largely depends on the functional purpose of the buildings. Recently, the method of frame housing construction has become very popular: it is fast, relatively cheap and, at first glance, very simple in terms of thermal insulation. However, the fashion for the use of certain schemes does not help to find universal building solutions, since they simply do not exist. What is good for the home may not be suitable for the spa area. Consider the insulation of the main surfaces of the frame bath and try to determine the feasibility of using various kinds thermal insulation and other technological elements that form the necessary microclimate in the steam room.

Frame buildings belong to inertialess thermal systems, that is, to houses with a low heat capacity. What is the meaning given parameter? It reflects the ability of building units to accumulate thermal energy. The heat accumulated by the walls and foundation is transferred to the room, providing, on the one hand, a slow cooling of the space when the heating is turned off, and, on the other hand, slow heating to the required temperature.

The frame bath is economical and prefabricated

A house built on the principle of a frame filled with thermal insulation heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. There are no strong (in the traditional sense) walls, and the insulation for the frame bath does not pass energy through itself well, but it also accumulates it in itself.

During work heating system the level of heat saving of such an object is very high and is usually close to the standard of a "passive house". However, the need for constant heating introduces serious inconveniences for permanent residence in buildings of this type. But no one lives in the baths! Here, the speed of heating the steam room is much more important. It is for such objects that low inertia is rather a positive factor than a negative one.

Thermal insulation of walls

In accordance with the design of the wall sandwich in frame housing construction, the insulation of the bath walls is not external or external. It is internal, since it is a filling of honeycombs created by vertical posts made of thick boards or timber.

We fill the voids

Of course, we are talking about the main insulating layer. Most often, mineral (basalt) wool is used. But not because it is “the warmest material”, but for a number of other reasons:

• Fire safety. A wooden frame is the most flammable wall structure. Therefore, filling with non-combustible stone wool greatly reduces the risk of fire.
• Vapor permeability. To reduce the level of moisture condensation from the air inside the wall sandwich, the principle of increasing the vapor permeability of the layers is used: the value of the parameter should increase in the direction from the inner surface of the walls to the outer. In rolls and mats made of mineral fibers, the vapor permeability is higher than that of the inner wood paneling. This increases the resource wooden frame due to the prevention of rotting and the formation of fungal mold.
• Question price. Firstly, cotton wool is cheaper than XPS boards and sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU). Secondly, when using cotton wool, you can do without the cost of ventilating the wall sandwich. Thirdly, you can save on the wages of installers: insulating a frame bath with your own hands according to this scheme is a simple matter, since all the materials used are quite light.

Since there is no windproof traditional wall material, special Isoplaat windproof boards are used in the sandwich, made from fine powder of coniferous wood impregnated with moisture-proof compounds (resins and paraffins). These plates also play the role of structural rigidity of the walls. When using rock wool sandwich for bath wall insulation looks like this (in the direction from the inside of the steam room to the outside):

1. decorative trim made of solid wood (lining, sheet piling, or ordinary plank sheathing);
2. vapor barrier membrane (for example, foil material);
3. a layer of stone wool;
4. waterproofing membrane;
5. Isoplaat wind insulation;
6. decorative trim with a high level of vapor permeability.

It should be noted that even without outer skin, high-quality wind protection retains its properties for 5-10 years. A feature of wall insulation in frame baths using mineral wool is the installation of large thicknesses of insulation (up to 150 - 200 mm, depending on the climatic zone). A common technique is a combination of roll and plate materials, forming 2 layers of insulation.

Theoretically, XPS or PPU can be used instead of wool, but certain design tricks are required to protect these materials from exposure to temperatures above + 75 ° C. Firstly, the stove is not located closer than 1.5 m to the wall. Secondly, it is mandatory to use foil reflective materials with their own insulating layer. Moreover, a ventilated gap of 1.5 - 3 cm must be maintained between the foil isol and the insulation plate.

The rest of the structure of the sandwich repeats that already described.

The greatest difficulty is the arrangement of powerful ventilation, capable of drying the air inside the frame. This measure makes the insulation scheme using EPS and PPU much more expensive. Therefore, foamed polystyrenes and polyurethanes are practically not used in baths of this type.

External insulation with EPPS boards is possible. In this case, instead of windproof materials such as Isoplaat, the frame is sheathed with OSB sheets, on which expanded polystyrene boards are glued on top.

Insulation of ceilings and floors

There are practically no specific differences in the insulation of ceilings in frame baths from work in buildings of other types. On flat ceilings, the main insulation layer is mounted from the inside of the steam room, and in the case of hemmed ceilings, from above, from the side roof space.

From the inside, a reflective layer (foil material) and a thermal insulator located behind it (mineral wool or XPS boards) are used. Regardless of the type of insulation, an air gap is made between the infrared screen and the main layer. From the side of the under-roof space, the wool is protected by a waterproofing membrane.

When arranging the floor of the bath, do not forget about the drain

False ceilings can be insulated with the same materials as floor ceilings, but bulk mixes (most often eco-wool) are usually preferred for their arrangement.

Floor insulation in a budget frame bath is carried out, as a rule, using cellular self-growing concrete. In more expensive buildings, options are possible with the arrangement of a warm floor on the ground, providing for a concrete screed over the EPPS layer. On the concrete, which is a rough floor, a plank finish floor from a jointed "magpie" is laid.

The use of DIY insulation

The second most commonly used heater for frame-type baths are compositions based on sawdust and shavings. Processed in a certain way, the material is poured in portions and rammed. A sandwich wall with sawdust has the following structure (from inside to outside):

1. board sheathing;
2. kraft paper (no air gap);
3. sawdust with a layer thickness of 10 cm;
4. kraft paper;
5. board sheathing.

Boards play the role of both a strength frame and decorative cladding. Reflective screens are generally not used, as the default sawdust option should be the simplest structurally and inexpensively.

Pre-treatment of sawdust consists in soaking them in lime mortar. Lime gives the material moisture resistance and is quite effective in terms of fire protection.

If the work is carried out in the warm season, it is not necessary to dry the limed shavings before installation. Evaporation of excess moisture occurs quite quickly after backfilling.

In operation, the processed sawdust proved to be the same effective material as mineral wool, but devoid of one of its main drawbacks - high hygroscopicity. For floor insulation, sawdust is used in the composition cellular concrete. Treated sawdust is covered with a layer of about 200 mm in natural caissons of false ceilings with moderate tamping. The top layer is covered with a waterproof membrane.

Video: we warm the frame bath correctly

Summary

By performing thermal insulation of frame-type spa areas according to one of the described schemes, you can get a relatively inexpensive, but very effective option steam room with easy reaching of high temperatures and intensive vaporization. The main attention is required to carefully study the issues of vapor barrier and prevent condensation of atmospheric moisture inside the sandwich walls. The inhibition of the development of undesirable microflora depends on this, which determines the sterility of the procedures and the extension of the life of the wooden frame of the bath.