How to install eyelets on paper yourself. Preliminary measurements and calculations

An important milestone during the renovation of the apartment is the installation interior doors. The heat and sound insulation of individual rooms, as well as the inviolability of the personal space of their residents, largely depends on how they were installed as a result.

The process of installing doors inside the apartment seems easy if you just watch it. However, if you try to do it yourself, then installing interior doors can turn into a very troublesome business. To do everything right and avoid negative experiences, you need to follow a specific plan of action and follow a few simple tips.

First, it is worth dividing the installation process into several stages:

Preparatory.
Mounting door frame.
Installation door block.
Final.

To install a door block at home, you will need a small set of tools that any man has in his house - a set of screwdrivers, a hammer, a chisel, a tape measure, a level, a hacksaw and various self-tapping screws.

To insert interior doors yourself and do it right, you must first prepare the doorway and produce necessary measurements, from which in the future you will build on.

Determining the dimensions of the passage will affect the dimensions of the door array, since if they do not match, additional measures will have to be taken. If the door is larger, then it needs to be cut down to the required parameters or to increase the opening, if it is smaller, it is necessary to build up the wall.

Door frame installation

What is the door frame made of?

The next stage of installation is the fastening of the loot racks to the prepared doorway. If they are not connected to each other, you need to eliminate this defect and twist the parts yourself with screws. When the frame is ready, you need to “try on” it door leaf.

At the same time, we pay attention to the gaps between them - if everything is mounted correctly, then the gaps should be at least 3-5 mm. Then markup is done for the fittings.

First, the position of the upper and lower hinges is marked with a pencil - 250 mm from the edges, and with the help of a joiner's corner, it is transferred to the spout and the end of the door block. Shallow openings are made with a chisel.

After that, the position of the door handle and lock is marked. The height mark for this setting is 850mm from the bottom edge of the door.

Having finished the preparations, you can proceed to the direct installation of the racks. First, the side where the loops will be is exposed and fastened, the rest are exposed under it. How correctly and evenly they stand is measured by the level.

After that, wedges are placed to fix the position. If it is not possible to leave later installed door at rest, but it will be necessary to use this passage, they put a structure of struts.

Door block installation

Having independently installed the frame, we proceed further to hanging the wooden canvas. After the door is attached to the box, we make a visual inspection of the result.

If the markings and installation of the loot were done correctly, then all the necessary gaps will be observed within the normal range and the door will not warp. If necessary, you can put additional spacers, which are at a height with the upper hinges and slightly below the handle.

Be sure to check: does the door function correctly, does it open and close freely, does it do it on its own without anyone's help? If everything suits you, you can start foaming cracks and gaps. After a day, when the foam hardens, you can remove the spacers.

The final stage

The last stage involves the implementation of several works:

wall decoration;
installation of platbands;
handle installation.

When the foam has hardened, and the door is mounted in good faith, we proceed to ennoble the result of our work. To do this, the excess foam is cut off, and all joints are leveled with putty.

Having gained experience in installing the entire door unit, it will not be difficult for you to install the platbands yourself. They are attached to the screws, with nails or glue. In the first case, the ugly look is eliminated with decorative caps, in the second - by rubbing the hats.

At the end we fasten door handle and check the operation of the lock.

Finally

As stated at the beginning, self-installation interior doors, Long procces, requiring endurance, ingenuity and some physical abilities, because not everyone can lift wooden door without outside help.

We tried to give detailed description the process of installing the door at home, so we hope that you will be able to avoid a bad experience, and you will be able to hide minor installation flaws with the help of external wall decoration.

If you want to insert plastic windows, but this price is not very pleasant for you, then you can save money - insert the windows yourself.

If you decide to start inserting windows yourself, then you can’t do without criticism from the outside, they say, this is the work of specialists, but what if you do something wrong and we will suffer from cold all winter. Don't listen to anyone and get down to business!

The Internet is just overflowing with information on how to insert windows and what tools you will need during installation, so collect everything necessary tools(perforator, mounting level, drill, mounting gun, mounting foam, fasteners). Decide on the date when you will insert windows, and carry out preparatory work in advance.

Preparatory work is to: remove the windows from the hinges; if there are blind parts, then remove the glass and make holes around the entire perimeter of the frame for fixing the windows with anchors.

Have fun destroying old windows! Then clean the window opening from dirt. And now, finally, everything is ready for installation.

Ta-da-dam!... Drumroll! It's time to insert the window. You need to insert it into the opening according to the level (be sure to put the windows on the stand profile, it must be included), secure the entire structure with wooden spacers. When you fix the window, then with the help of a perforator, through the holes made earlier, cut into the wall, insert the anchors and stretch them.

Then moisten the entire window opening with water and blow out the frame with mounting foam. 20 minutes after that, when the foam dries, set the ebb on the screws, pour some foam under the windowsill. After installing it, and put some weight on it in order to avoid its uneven fastening.

Now install double-glazed windows, hang sashes. Close the window and let the foam dry completely. Do not touch during the day, so that the window is firmly fixed.

Windows are ready! And wipe your nose to everyone who said that this is a matter of professional installers.

Sooner or later, it's time to make changes to the interior, it may be necessary to replace the doors if they are categorically not suitable for the chosen new style. And then the question arises of how to install an interior door on your own in order to save a round sum on the call of the master. To hold this event is quite accessible to anyone who knows how to work with construction tools, has carpentry skills and knows the step-by-step instructions for the work.

Not a single residential building can do without. If the wooden box in which the old door is installed is in good condition, then only the door leaf and facing panels (platbands) can be changed. This process is much easier to perform than completely changing the door frame along with the canvas. However, even such a large-scale alteration, with the replacement of the box, is quite feasible.

Tools for the job

For any carpentry work, you must have the following tools at hand:

Planer for leveling end surfaces. You may need both manual, for small delicate work, and electric - if the fit is voluminous enough.
Joiner's square - the longer, the more accurate the marking will be.
Building level, plumb.
Screwdriver with a set of nozzles (bit).
An elongated screwdriver - you may need both a straight blade and a curly one, so it's better to have a set.
One type of saw is a hand saw or an electric circular saw.
Roulette, pencil.
Miter box for the correct cutting of corners when fitting wooden parts.

Miter box with a hacksaw - necessary for precise fitting of wooden parts

Construction knife.
Hammer.
Chisel, chisel for removing layers of wood when making grooves for hinges and a lock.

Hole saw for cutting large diameter round holes.

"Crowns" or hole saws - for cutting even holes of large diameter

Electric drill.

In addition to tools, you will need auxiliary materials and consumables:

Wooden wedges for door frame spacers.
Stain and varnish, primer and paint.
Self-tapping screws, dowels and anchor fasteners.
Mounting foam.

door drawing

It is recommended to draw up a drawing before starting work, on which it is necessary to accurately put down all the dimensions taken from the opening, door frame and door leaf. Such a scheme will help to quickly complete the work, without being distracted by the measurement of each detail during the installation process.

To obtain an accurate picture, it is necessary to measure the height and width of the installed old door, and the thickness of interior doors is usually standard and is 40 mm. Modern doors are sometimes somewhat different from older models, in which case it will be necessary to adjust the door leaf or completely change the door block.

Whatever decision is made - to replace the entire unit or just the door leaf, you still need to start by removing the old door from the hinges.

Replacing only the door leaf

Removing the door leaf

Hinges installed on an interior door may have different designs, which means that the door can be removed in different ways. However, all methods are not difficult.

As is known, door hinges consists of two parts, one of which is attached to the door, and the second - to the door jamb. In some models, the axial rod is permanently fixed inside the element, which is mounted on the vertical post of the jamb, and in another part, installed on the door leaf, there is a hole where the rod should enter. When removing a door hung on such hinges, you need to place a mount under its lower edge and apply a little force to lift the canvas. It is best if there is a second worker who will support the door in an upright position, and then help remove it completely.

Another type of canopy, in which the axial rod is inserted from above and passes through both parts of the hinge. In order to dismantle a door hung on such hinges, it is enough to pull out the rods installed in them, which have a kind of mushroom-shaped hat on top. A reliable wide screwdriver is substituted under it, and, tapping on its handle, pull the pin out of the loop. You need to start the process from the bottom hinge in order to avoid tipping the door, which, with its weight, can easily tear out part of the hinge installed on the jamb, damaging its surface. This is especially undesirable if the door frame is in good condition and will be used for a new door.

After dismantling the door from the opening, it is necessary to remove the hinges, handles, locks from it.

Fitting a new door

Provided that only the door leaf is replaced, the new door will have to be adjusted to the existing opening, based on the dimensions of the old one. From it you need to remove the exact dimensions and transfer them to a new canvas.

You can do it differently - new door is laid on a flat surface, and an old dismantled canvas is placed on top of it. Canvases are aligned on top and along the vertical edge of the door on the side where the handle will be installed. If the new canvas is larger than the old one, it will need to be adjusted. With the help of a pencil, lines are drawn on it, along which an extra fragment is sawn off from the new canvas.

It must be remembered that a gap is left for the interior door, between the canvas and the jamb on all its sides, 5 mm each, and from below you can leave a slightly larger distance - 10 ÷ 12 mm.

Further, the excess part is cut off from the new canvas. The cut must be perfectly even and smooth, and this can only be done with a sharp and accurate tool, which can be a hand-held circular saw. The cut is made under a special ruler, which is designed for use with just such a cutting tool.

The saw is set to the desired notch height (usually with an output of 45 mm) and the door is sawn off exactly according to the markup. If there is no special guide ruler, then you can carefully cut with a circular and without it, leaving an allowance of about 1 ÷ 2 mm - this will be necessary in order to then cleanly fit the canvas with an electric planer.

Hinge installation

When it is adjusted to size, you need to mark the places where the loops will be attached. To carry out this process accurately, you need to put the old door on the new canvas and very accurately align them with each other. At the end of the new door, marks are made of the areas where the hinges will be installed, focusing on the old canvas.

In this case, the layout of the loops is first marked with a pencil, and then with a construction knife. The lines from the knife are clear, and it will be easy to make a selection from them when cutting out the recesses necessary for installing the loops.

Next, the door leaf is placed on the end, so that the side on which the hinge will be inserted is on top. With the help of a chisel (chisel) outline the depth of the future groove. The tool is installed on the lines marked with a knife, and it is hit with a hammer from above, observing how deep the cutting edge goes into the wood - it should go deeper by 2 ÷ 4 mm, depending on the thickness of the metal of the loops (this can be measured in advance with a ruler or caliper) .

It is recommended to divide the area planned for sampling into several fragments, for the convenience of extracting wood. Further, the chisel is installed at a slight angle to the end of the door, with the beveled part down. and, striking it with a hammer, an extra layer of wood is knocked out, forming the necessary recess.

The next step, in the prepared recesses, you need to install the loops. They must be installed so that the plane of the metal plate is flush with the surface of the end face of the door. If the metal of the loop rises above the surface, then the notch needs to be deepened a little. If by chance the recess turned out to be somewhat larger than necessary, then a piece of thick cardboard can be placed under the loop.

When it is achieved that the loop entered the recess intended for it, as if “poured”, right through its holes with a thin drill drill sockets into which it will be convenient to screw screws. Further, the hinges are tightly screwed to the door, and then the canvas is tried on in the opening of the door frame. This fitting will show the presence of gaps and their size, as well as how accurately, without distortions, the canvas fits into the doorway.

If available manual frezer, then very carefully the grooves for the hinges (and for the lock) can be selected with it.

Video: inserting hinges on the door leaf using a router

Installing a lock or door latch

When the hinges fit well, you can proceed to the device holes for and handles.
Location The castle is also marked by an old door. It is very important to measure the exact distance from the edge of the door to drill the hole. If it is not executed exactly, and because of this it will have to be transferred, then the appearance of the door may be hopelessly damaged.
If a new lock is installed, then a special stencil is often included in its kit, through which the size and exact relative position of all holes are transferred, but measurements are still necessary for control.
If an old lock is used for a new door, then all parameters can be taken from the old canvas.
On the end side of the door, where the latch will come out, a hole is drilled with a chisel drill ("pen"), and on the main plane of the door this is usually done with a hole saw of the appropriate diameter.

After drilling the holes, the door leaf, if necessary, is decorated in the chosen way - it can be stained or stained with subsequent varnishing.
When the paint (lacquer) dries, and the place for installing the lock elements is ready, first installed and the internal mechanism with a latch is screwed on, and then the handles are mounted and fixed.

Video: an example of inserting a lock into an interior door

Installing the door in place

To make it easier to put it in place, it must be raised from the floor to the desired height and a board (or several planks) of the appropriate thickness should be placed under it.

Then, the loops must be carefully aligned with each other and carefully thread the lubricated rods into them, first into the upper loop, then into the lower one. The rods can, if necessary, be lightly tapped from above with a hammer
If a different type of hinge is used, then the door suspension will be carried out a little differently. It is best to do this together, since at the same time you need to get the rods of that part of the hinges that are installed on the box into the holes located on the "reciprocal" halves screwed to the door leaf.

Learn how to do with step by step instructions, from our new article.

Complete replacement of the door - together with the door frame

If during overhaul apartment, it turned out that it was necessary to replace not only the door, but also the door frame, which means that you need to start dismantling the old door set. This task can be even less difficult than replacing only the door leaf, since the new door purchased is usually already perfectly fitted to its frame.

How do you install a door from scratch?

There are certain standards according to which interior doors are produced, single or double. True, no one canceled the possibility of individual ordering doors for openings of a different size or shape.

Door leaf size standards and door opening sizes.
Door leaf size in mm.				Door opening size in mm.
Width	Height I	Height II	Height III	Width	Height I	Height II	Height III
550	2000	2100	2200	from 630 to 650	from 2060 to 2090	from 2160 to 2190	from 2260 to 2290
600				from 680 to 700
700				from 780 to 800
800				from 880 to 900
900				from 980 to 1000
1200 (600+600)				from 1280 to 1300
1400 (600+800)				from 1480 to 1500
1500 (600+900)				from 1580 to 1600

Dismantling the old door and frame

Dismantling the old kit is as follows:

As in the first case, the door leaf is removed from the hinges.
Further, the platbands are removed as carefully as possible.
The box is removed last. To make it easier to remove the bars of the box, a through cut is made approximately in the middle of one of the sides. In this case, the box structure loses tension, given dimensions, deformed, and it can be easily dismantled piece by piece.
Provided that the box must be kept in its entirety, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, the installed wedges are knocked out of the gaps between the wall and the jamb. This also reduces the expansion stress. If the jamb bars are fixed to the wall with nails (anchors, etc.), then you should try to carefully pull them out, and if that doesn’t work, cut them with a hacksaw blade or in another way, thereby freeing the box.
The box is carefully loosened with a pry bar and removed from the opening.
After dismantling the box, the opening must be cleaned of the old polyurethane foam, if it is present there, from dust and dirt accumulated during the operation of the door.

Production and installation of the box

When starting to assemble the box, you first need to install hinges on one of its sides, this process is carried out simultaneously with their installation on the door leaf. The hinges are attached in the same way as in the first case, which was described above. After that, proceed to the assembly of the door frame.

The joints of the box elements can have different connections - straight lines with an overlay of one beam on another, or end-to-end at an angle of 45 degrees.

The box is assembled according to measurements taken, which can, for example, be taken from an old set. Using a square to control the straightness of the corners, the elements of the box are set, marks are made if corners of 45 degrees are cut. Then, with the help of a miter box, the corners are sawn off, after which the box is laid out on the floor and knocked down with nails or fastened with self-tapping screws.

The location of the details of the box "overlaid", at a right angle

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

If the elements of the box are connected to the overlay at a right angle, then they can also be knocked down with nails or twisted with self-tapping screws.

Both in the first and in the second case, the connection must be made very carefully, since the nails can inadvertently come out in a completely undesirable place.

When the box is assembled, hinges are screwed to both it and the door, and a lock is installed, there are two ways to go. So, you can put the door on the hinges right away, and then install it together with the box in the doorway. Another option is to install the box first and then hang the door.

Video: Installing the door step by step, with all the details

If the first option is selected, then the door must be locked so that it does not open. Then, carefully, without distortions, install the entire set in etc oym, expose it with the help of a level and vertically in the longitudinal and transverse planes, and horizontally, carefully driving wooden wedges into the gaps between the wall and the box for fixing.

Then, you need to fix the box to the wall using anchors, drilling for them through holes in several places, two on each side.

Holes are drilled under hide” so that the screw heads are recessed into the wood of the box. Then they can be masked with special decorative covers, matching them to the color of the wood, or covered with a compound made from wood glue and sawdust.

The resulting gaps must be filled with mounting foam, wait for the expansion and complete drying of the polyurethane foam, after which excess composition, which protrude from the gaps, it will be necessary to carefully cut.

In the second case, only a new box is fixed in the opening, it is also set according to the level, fastened with wedges and anchor elements, but at the same time it is necessarily wedged wooden beam in the center - so that the vertical racks do not bend in an arc in one direction or another.

Then, the gaps are also filled with mounting foam and left until the composition completely hardens. After that, the door is installed on the box on the hinges.

Now it remains to carry out the final event - to install platbands.

The connection of platbands at the corners of the door can also be of two types - end-to-end (used very infrequently) or at an angle of 45 degrees. The right angle on the cladding panels is also cut with a miter box, and they are precisely adjusted to each other.

Prices for interior doors

Interior doors

It should be noted that you can save yourself from unnecessary problems with fitting the frame and the door to it, ordering the entire set as an assembly, that is, with the hinges and lock already installed, as well as the leaf fixed in the door jamb. Before making a purchase, you need to take exact measurements from the old set, and you can use them to make individual order or purchase a ready-made model. The kit usually includes platbands of the required height and with correctly fitted joints.

Find out an easy way to do it from our new article.

You need to know that it is quite difficult to adjust all the elements of the door without proper experience, and the mistake made in this matter is sometimes very difficult to correct.

11 best manufacturers of interior doors

	Name	Rating
#1	EL "PORTA	⭐ 100 / 100
#2	TRIADOORS	⭐ 99 / 100
#3	STATUS	⭐ 98 / 100
#4	SOFIA	⭐ 97 / 100
#5	ART DECO	⭐ 96 / 100
#6	PROFILDOORS	⭐ 95 / 100
#7	ONYX	⭐ 94 / 100
#8	BELWOODDOORS	⭐ 93 / 100
#9	MATADOR	⭐ 90 / 100
#10	VOLHOVETS	⭐ 91 / 100
#11	ALVERO	⭐ 90 / 100

Doors el'PORTA

Doors el'PORTA are doors with Italian architecture, produced in Russia. Models modern design and trendy shades, materials of the highest quality. el'PORTA interior doors are manufactured using modern Italian and German equipment. Various decorative door coverings allow you to choose best option in terms of price and performance.

Doors EL'PORTA

Characteristics:

3D-Graf - Structural decorative material increased density. It has a pronounced texture, medium wear resistance;
eco-veneer is an anti-vandal decorative material that imitates a cut of a real tree. High wear resistance, resistance to mechanical damage, fading, moderate resistance to moisture;
aqua doors - doors that are not afraid of moisture;
enamel - a multilayer material that imitates enamel, but has higher.

Doors EL'PORTA

- each product is an effective combination of priorities modern materials, trouble-free fittings, successful structural and design solutions. Such doors are very appropriate in rooms decorated in modern high-tech or minimalist styles.

Characteristics:

modern innovative coating Renolit (Germany) stands out for its strength, durability and environmental safety;
carelessness. It is enough to wash it occasionally with ordinary furniture care products (not containing abrasives);
doors can be installed in any room, even with high humidity;
easy to use, as well as durable and reliable.

— Stylish minimalist design will appeal to the modern city dweller. A rich choice of textures and finishes allows you to harmoniously fit these doors into a new, as well as into an already finished interior. Telescopic door trim- this is a constructive solution of the door frame, which allows you to fit to the wall of any thickness.

Characteristics:

due to the telescopic effect, the design is suitable for walls of any thickness. Thanks to a tighter fit to the wall, the box does not warp over time;
harmless material based on polypropylene;
a jointed massif of Angarsk pine is used in order to ensure the stability of the frame, low weight of the canvas, as well as the environmental safety of consumers.

Sofya doors are an author's design product, impeccable European quality and prompt service. Factory "Sofya" performs a full cycle of product creation from the development of the design of each door collection with Italian designers, the development of manufacturing technologies with German engineers.

Characteristics:

door painting based on safe acrylic-based components used in the medical industry;
absolute precision in the execution of all joints in the most unusual collections;
careful selection and research of the materials used;
ecological, strong and durable in operation.

— direction Design by ARTDEKO is interior doors for true connoisseurs of beauty and comfort. Warm shades of natural wood, exquisite shapes, luxurious decor of classic doors will become a real decoration of the interior. Manufacturability and concise forms of doors in modern style— an example of high design for adherents of minimalism.

Characteristics:

veneer is used from valuable wood species such as oak or ash;
inserts made of transparent, frosted, colored or patterned glass;
are made on high-tech equipment by qualified specialists using high-quality raw materials and materials.

- this type of door structure is a collapsible structure of individual elements (tsarg). The main advantages of this design are its high maintainability, due to the ability to replace any part of the door during operation and a huge range of various models both modern and classic style.

Characteristics:

resistance to chemical and physical influences;
a feature of the coating is its pronounced deep “brushed” structure with a glossy lacquer monochromatic surface or a matte lacquer monochromatic surface;
Complete with German Simonswerk hinges and German KFV lock.

— Onyx door factory has been producing interior doors for almost 20 years. During this time, the products managed to take a strong position in the market, due to high-quality materials, modern equipment and individual approach to clients.

Characteristics:

products are made from proven and market-proven materials: veneer and enamel;
doors are produced on modern German and Italian equipment. Thanks to this, the output products meet European standards.

- large-scale full-cycle production and high capacity of the BELWOODDOORS factory make it possible to produce interior doors of a wide price range using various technologies: paneled, frame-panel, piece-by-piece assembly, molded.

Characteristics:

all materials used for the production of BELWOODDOORS interior doors are carefully selected and tested for intensive use;
applying a protective layer of Italian-made polyurethane varnish to veneered doors is a guarantee that the doors will last for many years;
thanks to multi-layer varnishing, the coating has high strength.

— production of doors - the main activity of the Matador company. At every stage of production increased attention given to product quality. For this, a special department was created that controls all processes - from checking raw materials at the entrance to measuring the thickness of the surface decorative layer.

Characteristics:

doors are made on the latest equipment;
tie-in of fittings is carried out in the factory;
high performance.

In 2018, the company celebrated its 25th anniversary! During this time, a long way has been covered from a small factory to a huge company with two production sites and 300 showrooms throughout Russia. Three times they became the winners of the "Brand No. 1 in Russia" award and products and services are constantly being improved. Only one mission has remained unchanged: to help customers create stylish, individual interiors.

Characteristics:

entrance doors, interior doors in classical, neoclassical and modern style;
doors made of solid wood, natural veneer, finished with enamel or Ciplex laminate;
doors up to 3 m high, hidden doors;
sliding doors in a pencil case, along the wall, a book door and other opening design options.

Doors ALVERO

Doors ALVERO- factory "Alvero" - a manufacturer of solid wood doors. Collections of interior doors "Alvero" and "Viporte" include more than 50 models in 60 finishes. We create stylish high-quality doors that will decorate any interior and fill your home with the warmth of natural wood.

Characteristics:

time-tested carpentry traditions are used in production, combined with modern technologies and equipment.

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. An uncomplicated process, facilitated by the presence of fasteners and additional parts in the factory, House master he will be able to master and carry out on his own. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate scrupulous implementation of building regulations to an independent installer. To call on assistants will need patience, accuracy and at least one person. Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands will be performed flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for independent builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, it is traditional to measure the opening, taking into account whether it is with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter are a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, which significantly reduces heat loss. In an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window, the length of which will be 5 cm less than the equivalent opening parameter. From the width value, you need to subtract 3 cm. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To arrange an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length value is not changed.

Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 deep. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width indicators of both elements calculated according to the location of the window, 5 cm must be added.

The location of the battery also affects the calculation of the width of the sill. It should only half cover the radiator. Plus 2 cm for the establishment under the base of the window. The minimum margin for length is 8 cm, but it is better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. Plastic side plugs are attached to the window sills and ebbs. Don't give up on them.

Frame fastening methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are built, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the method and attachment devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

mounting anchors or dowels inserted into the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
with special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they do not penetrate into the wall, but are installed by surprise and fastened with screws.

The first method is recognized as the most reliable. It is used mainly for the installation of large and heavy window systems. With a through fastening, the window will firmly resist numerous shock loads that occur, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, the anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to properly install plastic windows of small dimensions with blank double-glazed windows should be interested in the method of fixing with anchor plates. Appearance they will not spoil the windows, since then they will be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. For the installation of anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, it is advisable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If the installation of plastic windows with your own hands is done in wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specifics of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks, the differences are only in the size of the anchors, then there is a special approach to openings in log cabins and in timber walls. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and even how to do it.

It is possible to equip a wooden structure with plastic windows only after a year, preferably two years after the completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction shrinkage. The smallest period of shrinkage and its size are for buildings made of glued laminated timber.
Installation is not carried out directly in the opening. You can only insert a window into a wooden box that protects the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects and rot on the window unit. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
Shrinkage, however, is no longer so intense, and will occur after the installation of windows and finishes. Taking into account what, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the box. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. The gap after the installation of the window is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

In building codes there are no exact recommendations about the material for ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. Ebbs usually use standard ones attached to window construction. The window sill can be both polymeric and wooden. It is not forbidden for the bottom profile to rest directly on the wooden window sill. That is, before installation, it may already be.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but recommended by experienced builders to those who figure out how to insert plastic windows correctly. Wood that can pass evaporation will reduce the technical qualities of the mounting foam. In order for the foam “blown out” along the perimeter not to be moistened, window block along the line of its application, it is desirable to equip it with a foiled polyethylene foam tape.

Plastic window installation standards

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of mounting foam, which stiffens the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously performs the function of insulation and additional fastening. In order for the specified element to retain the necessary specifications the foamed layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to insert a plastic window, the owner decides. Winter installation is often recommended due to the immediate manifestation of all flaws. When choosing a mounting foam, it is imperative to take into account at what values of atmospheric temperature the composition will harden better. It is advised to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings, you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instruction attached to the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a circular motion. To eliminate the overspending of expensive material, the foam is blown in several steps in segments of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. The outward facing foam layer is recommended to be made less dense than the inner one. Along the perimeter, the foam must be blown evenly, without voids and gaps.

Window opening preparation

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a prerequisite. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to cut off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation is to be done in an already used box. The foam will adhere firmly to the top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will exfoliate over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam, if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: drywall, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.

Preparing a plastic window

First, release the frame from the sash, for which pull out the pin inserted into the upper hinge. You need to pick it up carefully from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from blind windows, having previously removed the longitudinal and then transverse glazing beads. To remove glazing beads, a knife with a thickened side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly shifted, trying not to damage the glass.

Note. It is possible to insert a plastic window of small dimensions with the help of mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, do not violate the integrity of the factory design.

Lean the double-glazed window or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on a flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You can't lay flat! Put with a warp too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

Remove the protective film from the outer surface of the frame. If you do not remove it now, then it will be much more difficult to do it and you will have to use a building hair dryer.
Regardless of the type of mount chosen, mark the places for its installation. The step strongly recommended by the builders is 40 cm (maybe a little less), allowed by GOSTs is a maximum of 70 cm. The standards for indentation from the corners and from the impost are 15 cm. If mounting plates are used, they are pre-attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws by placing a metal drill on the outside of the frame.

Most of the video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen, faced with its sticky "inconvenience", convince that it is more reasonable to attach it after installation.

Direct installation process

Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small blocks around the perimeter to provide a technological gap. Slightly moving these spacer wedges, set the frame clearly horizontally and vertically with uniform side clearances.

Advice. It is desirable to place spacers near the point of attachment with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

Because pvc installation do-it-yourself windows can be carried out using different fasteners, at this stage differences appear.
- in the opening wooden house through the holes in the frame, immediately screw in the self-tapping screw. You don't need to screw it all the way in.
- On the walls of foam concrete or brick, mark the points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame, drill holes with a drill appropriate for the material. Then return the frame to its place, “bait” the fasteners.
- There will be no need for double manipulation of the frame when mounting on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they adjoin the place intended for their fastening.

The final fastening is made after the control of the horizontals and verticals with a spirit level and a plumb line. It is impossible to persist with tightening, so that the frame does not begin to bend barrel-shaped. Finish screwing as soon as the hat is level with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
Return the dismantled parts to their place in the reverse order and check the operability of the structure.
Fill gaps with foam. Close the foamed seams from the outside and from the inside with protective tapes. Outside, the insulating tape must be "drowned" in
Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it with a slope from the window, attach it with screws to the bottom profile.
After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to install a window sill. Plastic variant 2 cm starts under the sweet clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the window sill can also be foamed.
It is desirable to make slopes on the day of installation. Maximum break 3 days after installation.

After performing all operations for 16 hours, it is not recommended to use windows so as not to violate the integrity of the assembly joints. Knowing how to install a plastic window is necessary not only for skilled owners. If the owner of country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.

Plastic window

We will not touch here on the question of which window is better: plastic or wooden. If you are interested in the question of how to insert a plastic window yourself, then you have already made your choice. Let's take a look at some of the installation steps. plastic window. So, to insert such a window, you must first collect right tool. This will greatly simplify the installation process itself, save your time, ensure the quality of work and, importantly, save your neighbors' nerves (if you live in apartment building). So, you will need:

hand saw for wood;
nail puller, level and tape measure, metal shears.

In addition, such improvised means are needed: a sharp knife, a hammer, durable garbage bags, a broom and a scoop, a water sprayer, a can of mounting foam. Work must be done in tandem with an assistant. Its role is reduced mainly to supporting, fixing the window at the right time.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of a new window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one. There are two options here: keep it intact for some reason, or immediately send the old window to the trash. In the first case, dismantling can take a whole day, in the second 20-25 minutes. Let's consider the second option.

We start by removing the sashes from the frame hinges. To do this, we pry them from below with a nail puller, carefully remove them and put them on the floor. If you have a three-leaf window, then we saw through the middle pillar of the frame from below with a hand saw and, applying force in the lower part, we tear it out from above in a barbaric way. Then, using the same nail puller, we disassemble the frame of the window opening. The window sashes can be taken somewhere far away, but put what is left of the frame nearby, it will still be useful to us.

Clear the opening of unnecessary sagging

The next step is to clean the window opening from the remnants of cement, clay, old plaster, and so on. This is done with the help of a perforator into which a chisel is inserted. It should be noted that all actions must be carried out carefully so that the fragments from this process do not fall out, especially if the work is not carried out on the first floor. Here you can not do without an assistant. After completing this work, remove all debris so that it does not interfere with you in the future.

To proceed with the installation of a new window, first remove the opening sashes from it, clean outer part from the protective film (do not forget!), we prepare a drill for a 6 mm puncher, plastic dowels and self-tapping screws are also 6 mm in diameter. Why exactly 6 mm? Because usually the brackets with which the window is attached to the opening have holes for this size. If this value is different, then the fasteners must be selected accordingly. You will also need wooden embedded parts that can be sawn from the remains of the frame. Their length should correspond to the width of the window. The remaining dimensions of the bookmarks in width and height can be limited to 20-25 mm.

With an assistant, being careful, we raise the window and insert it into the window opening, we lay our wooden pieces (bookmarks) under the bottom of the frame in the amount of 4 pieces at an even distance from each other.

bookmark lining

While the companion is holding the window, you use the level to set the vertical and horizontal position. Having achieved correct location, we bend the window brackets tightly to the opening with a hammer. Then, using a puncher with a 6 mm drill, we make recesses in the window opening and insert plastic dowels there. When all the brackets are in place, use a screwdriver to finally fix the new window. Next, you need, as the masters say, to foam the gaps between the window and the window opening. This is done using mounting foam.

This operation is not as simple as it seems at first glance. But after a few attempts, you will master it. The only thing to take into account in this case is not to release too much foam at once and start as if from the inside, and not splatter it from the outside of the gaps. Do not forget to moisten the surface with a water spray before “foaming”.

Well, the final touch - the installation of low tide. This is not difficult. First, try on the ebb in length. If its size goes beyond the size of the window, cut off the excess with metal scissors. Next, using a screwdriver, we attach it to our wooden bookmarks. Holes in the ebb do not need to be drilled, since its thickness is small and a self-tapping screw can easily handle this.

That's all. The window is in place, we insert the sashes, put decorative caps on the hinges and enjoy the work done. In addition to moral satisfaction, you can buy yourself the right thing or sit in a cozy cafe. Having experience in installing a plastic window, you can easily mount such windows on a balcony, help relatives or a friend in this matter.