Instructions for insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside. Insulation of a wooden house from the inside Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside with hands

If you are going to do the insulation yourself wooden house from the inside, I recommend reading this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.

A few words about the choice of insulation

First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. The choice of insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.

Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation be fireproof.

Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;
ecowool.

mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common insulation.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to the following properties:

good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK;
environmental friendliness;
good vapor permeability;
fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
Sold in the form of mats and rolls, making it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most thermally stable. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher than stone wool and glass wool:

Brand	Cost per 1m3
Isoroc Isoruf-V	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it causes irritation on the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is desirable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular polystyrene foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has higher characteristics than expanded polystyrene:

high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
during the manufacturing process, manufacturers add flame retardants to extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the flammability class G1 (low combustible material). True, this applies only to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
resistant to moisture, therefore, during installation does not require hydro-vapor barrier;
does not irritate the skin.

However, penoplex has some disadvantages:

vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for thermal insulation of the floor, as it is not afraid of moisture;
high cost - penoplex is by far one of the most expensive thermal insulation materials.

Below is the cost for some common grades of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has become increasingly popular in recent years.

Its merits include the following points:

environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
vapor permeability;
thanks to special additives that are present in ecowool, the insulation is fireproof and resistant to biological influences;
has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cube

I must say that for the insulation of walls with ecowool, special equipment is required. Therefore, when independent work it is possible to perform with this material only the insulation of the floor or ceiling.

Here, and all the most common heaters that are used for insulation wooden houses. True, there are still materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they will not be able to perform insulation on their own, so we will not consider them.

Warming technology

The process of warming a wooden house includes three main stages:

Floor insulation

To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:

one of the heaters that I talked about above;
vapor barrier;
slats and boards - will be needed if there is no subfloor between the lags;
antiseptic impregnation for wood.

The instruction for floor insulation looks like this:

if the floor has already been used, it is necessary to dismantle the wooden flooring;
then you need to perform a draft, unless, of course, it is missing. To do this, fasten the cranial bars on the rafters from below and lay the boards on top of them;
Further treat all wooden floor elements with an antiseptic to protect them from biological influences;

then a vapor barrier is laid over the rafters and the subfloor. The strips of the membrane should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to glue the joints with tape.
As I said above, in the case of floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, vapor barrier can be omitted;

Next, you need to lay the insulation. If mineral plates or penoplex are used for these purposes, place the insulation close to the logs. In addition, make sure that there are no gaps between the insulation plates;

then you need to lay another layer of the vapor barrier;
at the end of the work, it is necessary to lay the boards, fixing them on the logs with nails or self-tapping screws.

I must say that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Wall insulation

The next stage is the insulation of the walls from the inside of a wooden house. I must say right away that it is necessary to resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.

It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.

The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:

insulation, although not significantly, but still takes up useful space in the room. For big houses this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden ones, the reduction in space can be very noticeable;
after the walls are insulated from the inside, they completely stop heating;
moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampness of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.

If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology that will minimize all Negative consequences from this procedure.

So, for wall insulation, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

antiseptic impregnation for wood;
interventional insulation;
wooden slats;
vapor barrier;
thermal insulation material;
finishing material - lining or, for example, drywall.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:

To prepare the walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps:

wall surfaces must be impregnated to prevent wood decay, protect it from moisture and other negative factors;

if the house is made of beams or logs, it is imperative to insulate the intervention gaps by filling them with tow, jute insulation, or other suitable material.

Now we need to equip the ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.

It is done as follows:

fasten the rails to the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.

Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically, and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to arrange them so that they form a flat horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;

then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the rails. It should be stretched to form a ventilation gap. Glue the joints of the membrane with adhesive tape;
for the ventilation gap to work, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall from below near the base, and from above under the visor.

Now let's start assembling the frame:

the bars that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;

prepared bars must be fixed on the rails. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the rails using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the bars are thinner, they should be fixed on suspensions, while the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
Make the distance between the posts so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if mineral mats are used for insulation, the step of the racks can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.

To make the wall even, first install vertical posts (required in level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to set the intermediate racks in the same plane as the extreme bars;

Now we are laying the insulation in the frame. In order for the wall insulation in a wooden house to be effective from the inside, try to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates. In addition, place the tiles flush against the ceiling and against the walls.
If the cracks are nevertheless formed, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the racks. To fix it, you can use a construction stapler.
Be sure to overlap the strips of the membrane, and glue the joints with adhesive tape;
fasten wooden slats about two centimeters thick over the membrane. They will provide the necessary clearance between the skin and the vapor barrier membrane.
Keep in mind that the crate should be perpendicular to the plastic or lining.

To ensure good sound insulation in housing, insulation should be performed with mineral wool. internal walls, i.e. partitions. The principle of installation of insulation is the same as for the insulation of load-bearing walls.

Now we need to sheathe the frame. Usually, wooden finishing materials are used for these purposes - lining or block house.

Their installation is carried out as follows:

lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
the first lining is installed so that the spike is directed towards the corner. To fix it, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face from the side of the spike.

From the side of the groove, the vgonka can also be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower ridge of the groove. It is even easier and faster to fix with the help of special fasteners - kleimers;

the subsequent board will be connected to the lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the side of the groove. The last board on the wall is cut in width, and docked with the previous one. From the side of the corner, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;

at the end of the work, wooden corners are mounted on the corners. They will hide the joints of the lining and the hats of the screws.

This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.

Ceiling insulation

As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install insulation from the inside.

If you have similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:

slab insulation;
wooden slats;
vapor barrier membrane.

Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:

if there is no flooring in the attic, it must be done. Boards or other material that is used as flooring should be fixed to the floor beams with nails or self-tapping screws;
then, from the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
further, the space between the beams must be filled with heat-insulating plates. To fix them, you can fix the rails perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail studs to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and pull threads or wire between them;
after the insulation of the floor, it is necessary to fix another layer of vapor barrier;

then the crate is performed and the ceiling material is mounted. You can also make a frame and sheathe the ceiling with drywall.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate wooden house from within.

Conclusion

Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on the insulation of a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For any questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is carried out in order to make efficient energy consumption. Today, this topic is more relevant than ever, because the resources are very expensive. Yes, and you read a long life for a wooden house, which means that it is necessary that the building has adequate temperature regime and proper ventilation.

Today, the insulation of wooden walls from the inside is within the power and wallet of everyone. But why do many people think that it is bad and inefficient?

According to the mind, it is necessary to insulate the house from the outside, so you transfer the dew point outside, it will fall on the insulation or on the outer wall.

This will ensure that there will be no condensation in the room. Also, builders advise complex insulation.

But the topic of this article is internal insulation. In practice, it constantly happens that only the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house becomes acceptable for various reasons. This can happen if the house has already been rebuilt and has a beautiful facade, which is not appropriate to redo at the moment.

You may not want to cover the logs that make up the house, because it looks much better. In general, for a number of reasons, the insulation of the internal walls of a wooden house has always been and will always be in demand. So, you need to learn how to perform it correctly in order to create a microclimate comfortable for people and materials in the house, while spending a minimum of money and time.

Components of success - right choice material and thorough observance of technology.

Ideally, before insulating a wooden house from the inside, it is necessary to make engineering calculations. This stage should precede all work on the arrangement, reconstruction or construction of residential buildings. Thermal engineering calculation is done in order to determine where the dew point will be. Because having installed a heater, you can be sure that it will insulate, but you can protect your house from moisture only if you correctly calculate the location of the desired point.

The basic principle is that it should not be in a heater and not indoors. The mistake will become fatal: the rooms will become warm, but damp, as a result, the insulation will begin to gain moisture, the walls may rot, all this will lead to the appearance of mold and insects.

Therefore, calculate everything yourself or invite a specialist - but be sure to make sure that even in severe frost the dew point will be outside!

Right stuff

When the theoretical part is completed, it's time to move on to practice. And for this, first of all, you need to choose the right insulation.

Requirements for it:

Low thermal conductivity;
Compliance with fire safety requirements;
Strength and durability;
Environmental friendliness, safety.

The way in which we will insulate the house directly depends on the material chosen.

Process and Technology

Now that you have decided how best to insulate your house, let's move on to the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. To do this, it is important to thoroughly comply with the technology.

If the insulation of the walls of the house is carried out with the organization of an air gap, fasten the crate to the rails on the walls, or directly to the wall if you do not have an air gap. Use screws of the required length.

After that, a heater is mounted directly on the wall to be insulated. It is laid in the cells of the crate. If you use sheets, then go from the bottom up, if you use rolls, then from the top down. Good and The right way laying mineral wool slabs - do it by surprise. Reinforce everything with dowels.
Waterproofing completes the internal insulation of the walls. To organize it, use a vapor-tight membrane: steam from the insulation will come out without problems, and the barrier will be insurmountable for water. The film is different on both sides, put its rough side to the insulation so that it is smooth on the outside. Make joints with an overlap of 10 cm, fasten the film with a stapler.

In order to hide the traces of insulation of the house from the inside, finishing is necessary: this is lining, drywall, painting, wallpapering or plastering - it's up to you. The main thing is that now it will be warm in your house, but there will be no place for dampness and dangerous moisture!

When building a private house, both the developer and the future owner of the cottage should pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation and ensuring comfortable living conditions even in the most severe cold. This fully applies to buildings made of log cabins or timber. But at the same time, such cottages have their own specifics, due to the material from which they are built. It cannot be ignored - otherwise it will negatively affect the durability of the walls and the finishing of buildings made of logs and timber. Therefore, it is not so easy to decide how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what, and you need to approach this matter in detail.

When carrying out measures for the installation of thermal insulation in a house made of timber or a log house, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of wood as a material. There are many of them, but the main ones are two - high vapor permeability and exposure to fungus and other microorganisms.

The first means that wood well absorbs and passes moisture through itself, both from the inside and outside. Accordingly, the insulation for a house built from a bar or a log house must have comparable vapor permeability indicators - otherwise the walls will gradually dampen, rot and become unusable. In addition, there is a need for a ventilation gap between the exterior finish and the insulation - without it, the latter will take in too much water and lose its thermal insulation qualities.

And the second feature of wood, associated with the susceptibility of the material to fungus and microorganisms, requires the mandatory treatment of all walls and parts of the thermal insulation system with antiseptic compounds, and in several layers.

Insulation of a private house can be divided into two types.

internal when a layer of heat-insulating material is located on the side of the living quarters and is covered with drywall, clapboard or any other finishing material.
Outdoor when thermal insulation is located on the walls from the side of the street. From above, it is closed with a windproof film and external trim, which can be boards, siding, corrugated board, fake diamond etc.

Internal insulation in wooden houses it is usually used when it becomes necessary to preserve appearance buildings under the tree. This usually refers to log cabins.

But at the same time, such a thermal insulation system has several disadvantages:

reduction of the usable area of residential premises;
non-optimal position of the dew point, leading to the appearance of dampness and condensation;
gradual destruction of the walls from the outside, due to temperature changes.

Therefore, the preferred option seems to be external insulation. Such a solution has the following advantages.

Saving living space- the insulation layer and the frame under it are located outside, which means you save a few square meters inside the house.
Dew point shift outside the walls of the house- with good external thermal insulation the temperature will be above zero over the entire thickness of the wall from a bar or log house. Consequently, condensation will not fall on the wall from the inside, there will be less dampness, and the service life of the structures will be longer.
By shifting the dew point and using ventilated façade technology Significantly reduces the risk of mold and rot.
Walls made of timber or logs can serve interior decoration premises, the original "texture" of a country cottage is preserved.

Due to these advantages, the article will focus on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and what materials are suitable for this.

General device for external insulation of a wooden house

From the point of view of providing high-quality thermal insulation and preventing the appearance of dampness / condensation on the wall and in the insulation, the most preferred way to protect the house from the cold is to equip a ventilated facade. Regardless of the material used, the design is a "layer cake", consisting of the following elements:

load-bearing wall of the house, made of timber or logs;
frame for insulation, created from a bar or metal profile;
a layer of heat-insulating material and fasteners under it;
windproof membrane film or windproof plate;
crate for exterior trim;
exterior decoration of the house.

At the same time, a ventilation gap is formed between the insulation and the exterior of the wooden house due to the crate, which ensures effective removal of flags and reduces the risk of condensation and dampness.

Important! Separately, it is worth paying attention to such an issue as the presence of a vapor barrier film between wooden wall and a heater. This film has long been the subject of controversy. Some craftsmen argue that a vapor barrier between the wall and the insulation is needed, otherwise the heat-insulating material will quickly become damp due to moisture coming from the house. Others hold the opposite opinion and say that the vapor barrier will disrupt the removal of moisture from the walls of the house, condensation will appear between it and the insulation, and then mold. Given both of these opinions, we can say that it is possible to install a film to protect the heat-insulating material from dampness, but only if there is good ventilation in the house and a gap between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

Prices for dowels for insulation

Dowel umbrella

You can get acquainted with the materials used to insulate a wooden house from the outside from the table below and in the following sections of the article.

Table. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - the main materials.

Material name	Short description
	Rolls and slabs of fine fibers of basalt and other minerals.
	A soft fibreboard made from recycled wood. Does not contain glue or chemical binders. Possesses high density and vapor permeability.
	Rounded porous cells of polystyrene foam fastened into plates.
	A kind of expanded polystyrene, made using a slightly different technology. Differs in greater density and better thermal insulation qualities.
	Paper and fabric processed into pulp with anti-caking, rotting and anti-rodent additives.

What material to choose for external insulation of a wooden house

Before proceeding with the insulation of a wooden house, you need to decide how to do it, that is, with what material. You can see the options available to most in the table from the previous section. These are mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Let's consider them in a little more detail.

Mineral wool is a collection of many fibers obtained from the melts of various rocks. As in cellulose wadding, between the fibers is a large number of air, due to which the material acquires its heat-insulating qualities.

The following advantages speak in favor of mineral wool as a heater for a wooden house:

ease of installation;
availability;
resistance to combustion - mineral wool melts only at a very high temperature;
vapor permeability at the level of wood;
excellent heat and sound insulation qualities.

But it should be borne in mind that mineral wool absorbs moisture well and at the same time greatly loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the outside of the insulation must be protected by a membrane windproof film.

A good option for warming a wooden house is Isoplat soft fiberboard. It is made "wet" from ground fiber of coniferous trees without the addition of glue and other chemical binders. Due to this, the plate works efficiently in a humid and cold climate and does not exfoliate from temperature changes. From above the plate is treated with paraffin to protect against atmospheric moisture. Isoplat plate has high rate vapor permeability, which means it prevents the dampness of the walls, the formation of fungus and mold. In terms of thermal insulation properties, 25 cm of material is comparable to 88 mm of solid wood. Isoplat also has a high sound insulation rate, which means that the house will become much quieter and more comfortable.

Insulation of a wooden house with Izoplat slabs

Other insulation options for a wooden house are polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both are polymers, consisting of cells glued together with many pores and voids. The latter, filled with air, provide the material with high thermal insulation qualities. Extruded polystyrene foam is made using a slightly different technology than regular foam, due to which the material is denser, and its cells are smaller. The material itself becomes stronger, but at the same time retains its thermal insulation qualities.

Styrofoam insulation - no the best way for a wooden house, but many resort to this solution because of the cheapness of the heat-insulating material

However, both polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam have a serious drawback, due to which their use as a heater for a wooden house is doubtful - this is low vapor permeability. Moisture and water vapor through these materials penetrate very poorly. Therefore, if a wooden house is insulated with polystyrene foam, a humid environment will necessarily arise between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, favorable for the development of fungi, other microorganisms and, as a result, for rotting and damage to wood.

According to environmentalists, up to 40% of heat and electricity generated in the northern hemisphere is spent on heating residential, industrial and other facilities. For this reason, high-quality insulation of buildings brings tangible benefits in terms of financial savings and living comfort. One of the most popular heat insulators is (polystyrene foam, PPS).

Another option for insulation is ecowool. This material is obtained from paper and textile waste, converted into cellulose. But at the same time, it is supplemented with additives that protect the material from caking, rotting, burning and make it unattractive to insects and rodents. It has excellent thermal insulating qualities. But at the same time, the method of laying it differs from mineral wool and polystyrene - ecowool in liquid form is sprayed onto the surface of wooden walls between the elements of the crate using special equipment. Then the material seizes, dries and becomes a very durable layer of thermal insulation. However, you need to understand that without the help of a specialist, it will be impossible to perform ecowool insulation.

Now that you know more about the materials used to insulate cottages made of timber or logs, let's start describing how the insulation process should be performed.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video - Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside

Insulation of a wooden house with Izoplatom

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat. The plate is a dense, but at the same time elastic material. It is enough just to press it against the wall and nail it with nails with a wide flat hat. Isoplat firmly adheres to the base and does not allow the appearance of "cold bridges". A ventilated facade is installed on top of the slab. In addition, Isoplat slabs of 25 mm or more can be covered with plaster. Warming in this way can be done independently without the involvement of specialists. This is the fastest, easiest and most reliable option for warming a wooden house.

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat plates

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool

Consider how to perform one of the most popular ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside - using mineral wool slabs.

Calculation of the amount of insulation

Work begins with the calculation of the required amount of insulation. To do this, calculate how many square meters of the house are in the surfaces to be sheathed with mineral wool. This problem is solved by the following algorithm.

Step 1. Calculate the height of the walls from the basement to the beginning of the gable. If one part of the house is one-story, and the second is two-story, perform calculations for them separately.

Step 2 Determine the perimeter of the walls by counting their length.

Step 3 Multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height and subtract the area of the openings from the resulting figure - this will give you an approximate surface area to be insulated. But the calculations don't end there.

Step 4 Using the formulas for determining the area of a triangle, calculate how many square meters are in your gables (if you are going to insulate them too), and sum the resulting figure with the result of the calculations from the previous step.

Determining the area of a wall, a simple pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle and a pediment of complex shape (which is the sum of a trapezoid and a triangle)

Step 5 Determine what brand and size of mineral wool you choose. Divide the total area of insulation by the area of each individual insulation board. Then increase the result by 10-15% for the reserve. The figure you received is the number of mineral wool slabs that will be needed for one layer of external insulation of a wooden house. At the same time, keep in mind that several insulation panels are sold in one package and, as a rule, it is written on them how many square meters this pack is designed for.

Mineral wool ROCKWOOL Light Butts. In one such pack there are six plates with a thickness of 50 mm and with dimensions of 600x800 mm. Their total area is 2.88 sq. m.

Step 6 Determine how thick the insulation should be. As a rule, in the southern regions it is 50 mm, in middle lane- 100 mm, in Siberia and northern latitudes - 150 mm. If in your case it will be impossible to perform insulation in one layer, double the number of mineral wool slabs from the previous operation.

List of tools

First of all, you will need something with which you can cut and saw materials for the sheathing. If the frame for the insulation will be made of wood, this task will perfectly cope electric jigsaw with matching blade. But in the case when the crate is made of a metal profile, it is better to give preference metal scissors.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Electric jigsaw

Important! The use of a grinder for cutting a profile onto a frame for insulation is acceptable, but undesirable - in the process of such sawing, the external anti-corrosion coating is damaged, which significantly reduces the service life of the future structure.

Next, you will need a tool for screwing screws into wood or metal. Considering that the work on insulation is carried out with a house made of timber or logs, only screwdriver and bit set. Choose a tool with a battery - the wire will not hang under your feet and interfere.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Advice! Experienced craftsmen use a screwdriver with two batteries. While one is working, the other is charging. Then they change places, and a person gets the opportunity to install the crate for insulation without stopping and wasting time.

You will need hammer or rubber mallet.

One of the essential tools for construction works is a knife for cutting mineral wool. You will need it to open packages of mineral wool and to cut slabs of this material. Alternatively, you can use a construction knife with a retractable blade.

Securing the windscreen membrane film on the insulation crate requires construction stapler and a set of staples.

The crate under the insulation should be as straight as possible horizontally and vertically. It is almost impossible to achieve this by eye, so be sure to use building level and plumb.

The wall of the house itself from a bar or log house and all the wooden elements of the crate require the mandatory application of several layers of an antiseptic that protects the materials from decay. For this you will need container and roller. But if you want to do everything quickly - use spray gun for paint.

Both before and during the work on the insulation of a wooden house, the master may need to apply various marks, measure distances and create records. These tasks are successfully completed with the help of a pencil, several sheets of paper (or one notebook), a tape measure and a carpenter's square.

Laying mineral wool on a wooden frame

Let us first consider the most common option, when mineral wool is laid between the elements of the crate made of wooden beams.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - remove all protruding elements from their surface, if any. These can be shutters, ebbs, decorative details, etc. Then treat the wall with an antiseptic and flame retardant, preferably 2-3 times. Apply a new layer only after the previous one has completely dried.

Important! When working with a log house, pay special attention to processing the corners and end parts of the logs - they are the most susceptible to the effects of fungi and other microorganisms.

Step 2 Make a crate. For her, take the highest quality timber, in this case, products with a section of 30x30 mm are used. Wood should not show signs of fungus or rot. First, install the upper and lower bars, secure them with galvanized self-tapping screws (it is undesirable to use others due to corrosion). Then install the horizontal elements of the crate, between which the mineral wool of the first layer will be laid. The interval between the beams should be approximately 5 mm less than the height of the insulation plate - this is necessary to more tightly fix the material and eliminate gaps.

Step 3 On top of the first "layer" of the crate, fix the second, where the elements are arranged perpendicularly. In this case, they are mounted vertically. Also, do not forget to fix the bars around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Step 4 Unpack and prepare the mineral wool boards. If necessary, cut them into pieces for installation around openings and in other places where full-sized insulation elements will not fit. Install the plates between the elements of the crate of the first layer, make sure that they hold tightly there. Fix them with dish-shaped dowels. Then, following the same principle, lay the plates of the second layer of insulation. It is desirable that they overlap the horizontal seams between the mineral wool sheets of the previous layer.

Prices for mineral wool

Step 5 Lay and secure a windproof membrane over the insulation. Joint its separate segments with each other with an overlap of about 10 cm (as a rule, a special marking is applied to the film for this). Attach the membrane to the crate with a construction stapler, and close the joints with a special adhesive tape. Special attention when working with a windproof film, give openings that also need to be covered.

Step 6 On top of the windproof film on the wooden elements of the insulation crate, fasten thick slats on which the exterior finish of the house will be held.

Step 7 Lay the exterior trim on the mounted rails. In this case, boards are used for this. Then install other protruding elements such as window and rain shutters, shutters, slopes, decorative details and more.

Laying mineral wool on brackets

Now consider another option for external insulation of the house. Here, mineral wool is not attached to the crate, but to metal brackets.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - treat them with an antiseptic and flame retardant. Then unpack the mounting brackets and calculate how many you need.

Step 2 Fasten the metal brackets to the wall using two long roofing screws with press washers. Since the house will subsequently be finished with siding, the fasteners are arranged in increments corresponding to the interval between the elements of the crate for vinyl panels.

Important! To ensure better sound and heat insulation, place small pieces of paronite under the part of the brackets that touches the wood.

Step 3 Unpack the mineral wool, check the quality of the insulation and prepare it for installation.

Step 4 Install mineral wool boards on the walls. To do this, put them on the brackets mounted in the previous stages of work. Holes for this can either be pushed through by the fasteners themselves, or cut with a knife.

Step 5 For better fixation, screw the dish-shaped dowels evenly over the area of each individual plate.

Step 6 Repeat the previous two operations for all walls and gables of the house.

Step 7 Lay a windproof film over the insulation layer. Secure it with an overlap with dish-shaped dowels.

Step 8 Using a knife or scissors, cut slotted holes in the windproof film through which the ends of the brackets should pass.

Step 9 Prepare, cut and fix on the brackets with self-tapping screws the vertical and horizontal elements of the crate from the metal profile. At the same time, it is very important to achieve the evenness of each individual rack or beam, using a plumb line and a building level.

Step 10 On the crate, equipped in the previous operation, install the outer trim. In this case, these are vinyl siding panels.

With a competent approach to business, the external insulation of a wooden house will provide you with coziness and comfort of living in a new place.

In order to keep the warmth and comfort in the house, it is necessary to add a heat-insulating layer to the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative impacts. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of warming an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors through, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the exit of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts claim that the best insulation not found for an old wooden house. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

Retains heat very well.
Isolates the interior from extraneous sounds from environment.
Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
Fire and environmental safety.
Rodents do not use to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

protection from moisture is necessary, therefore mineral wool is torn with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to deal with, because this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive moment, there are a number of others:

Good thermal insulation properties.
Has soundproofing.
Does not absorb moisture.
Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes the polystyrene unsuitable for insulating a village house from a log house:

lack of steam capacity;
rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
Styrofoam ignites easily, and then smolders with the release of caustic substances.

The tree already burns well, and if the finish is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

Improved thermal insulation properties. If a foam plastic 10 cm thick is needed to insulate the house, then 5 cm foam can be replaced.
Withstands high mechanical stress.
Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
There are also soundproofing properties.
Penoplex is produced with the addition of flame retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene, foam is safer.

Sometimes it is used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively store heat inside the house. Therefore, we consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to isolate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed from the base much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause quite the opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation, we choose hard mats of mineral wool. If there are material opportunities, you can take the foil version. The foil layer will repel heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material, we tightly caulk the interventional space or cracks that can form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

from the side of the room;
from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. Harder materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which a sheet insulation is placed. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even polystyrene. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard, which will protect the insulation from bursting.

There is an option when bulk heaters are used, for example, sawdust, gravel. But such materials need a lot, which can be even more expensive than using modern heaters.

Floor

The choice of insulation technology for a dilapidated house depends on whether there is a basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. It is possible that after this it will not be necessary to further isolate the floor.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

Underfloor heating (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
The use of thermal insulation materials. They choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover with chipboard or OSB boards, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of isolating the floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before any outdoor work can be started. Especially if the design is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the team. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and mess around a bit. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

Let's prepare the base first:

Remove all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
Remove old decorative coating.
Remove hinged structures that will interfere with all work.
Close all cracks.
Cover by wooden structure protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. This will significantly extend the life of the foundation.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier

After the impregnation is completely dry, proceed to laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and go outside.

start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10–15 cm;
joints are fixed with adhesive tape;
the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stapler.

Lathing installation

For the frame use wooden bars or metal profiles. If selected wooden frame, then its parts also require special treatment in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or chop off in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take and install. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a design will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether the heater will be used or not, and also on what decorative material decided to install on the facade.

The approximate plan is:

first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
screw elements;
we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

The material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the crate. Mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that there are no gaps. Mineral wool should not bulge.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely levels out the work on insulation. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the wind protection film

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The laying principle is the same as for the vapor barrier film:

Let's start from the bottom.
We make vertical stripes.
We lay in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
We glue the joints with tape.
The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

It is also appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of the crate for fixing finishing materials from the outside

An additional crate also creates a ventilation gap, which allows you to remove the steam coming out of the interior. The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
fix the details to the elements of the crate;
choose dry weather;
carry out the insulation of a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how durable the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. For those who have never done such a thing, it is better to take care of the construction team, and not start experiments.

And for those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own, you should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose a heater and finish.

House insulation has always been considered an obligatory stage of construction, and if not initially, then in the future additional work. After all, factors such as heat, humidity and ventilation should be taken into account.

But the method and technology of thermal insulation of a house differ markedly from the methods of insulation of a city apartment, and if the building is made of logs, then there are secrets. Therefore, in order to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside, you need to thoroughly prepare.

Where to begin?

Initially, you need to determine the type of wood from which the house is composed, because there are heat-insulating rocks, and therefore costs may decrease. The main thing is to identify the shortcomings and eliminate them, usually the appearance of cracks, improper stuffing of insulation, cracking of logs.

After identifying the shortcomings and determining the range of work, they begin to insulate the walls. In this case, the owners have a choice of which side of the wall to insulate: internal or external. Internal insulation is simpler, although the external option has its advantages, sometimes the best way out of this situation is to combine the two methods.

The key to success is to correctly observe the technology of fastening the material and protect it from moisture. You can do the work with your own hands, because the process itself is not technically complicated.

Heat insulating materials

Internal insulation of a wooden house can be carried out with modern synthetic and natural materials. The main requirements for insulating materials are resistance to fire and the presence of high thermal insulation properties.
Manufacturers offer wide choose thermal insulation materials, the most popular of which are:

ecowool;
mineral and stone wool;
polystyrene, expanded polystyrene;
drywall;
warm paints and plasters.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

It should be noted that all heaters differ in thermal conductivity. Thus, the thermal conductivity coefficient of most mineral and stone wool, as well as soft materials made from natural fibers and ordinary polystyrene foam, varies in the range of 0.038 - 0.045 W / m⃰ ° С.

The thickness of the layer can be from 50 to 200 mm, depending on the climatic parameters of the region and the main material of the walls.

For extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane, this indicator does not exceed 0.03 W / m⃰ ° С, therefore, with comparable efficiency, their layer thickness is one and a half times less. But such materials do not “breathe” at all, which implies the installation of a powerful forced ventilation system.

TO modern materials refer to ecowool. This material forms a solid heat-insulating layer, adjoining the log, timber, it fills all the cracks, voids and completely prevents blowing.

In this case, it is possible to avoid additional caulking of the log house. Ecowool allows internal moisture to pass through the capillaries inside the fibers, while no deterioration in thermal insulation properties is observed. The pores between the fibers remain dry, and condensation of water vapor does not appear on the structure of the house.

The absence of moisture in ecowool and the presence of mineral antiseptics exclude the appearance of mold and fungi in the insulation. Ecowool can be used when insulating the inside and outside of wooden walls together with vapor-proof materials. But the main thing is that the ability of the house to "breathe" is preserved.

Mineral wool

Warming with mineral wool allows you to achieve high thermal insulation performance, but it is required to install it increased requirements, the main one of which is to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, which significantly reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material.

Therefore, an additional layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing film is laid, internal ventilation is provided to remove excess moisture.

Insulation with foam boards, extruded polystyrene foam has become less widespread. There are several reasons, the main one being increased fire safety requirements.

Among the advantages, one can single out the elasticity of the material, its lightness, good heat and sound insulating properties, the small thickness of the plates, which makes it possible to slightly reduce the space of the room with internal insulation. The main thing is that the technology of foam insulation is constantly improving, the characteristics of the material are changing.

Wireframe creation

When working with any kind soft material, including with mineral wool, it is necessary to first create a frame around the entire perimeter of the walls, which will securely hold the insulation. Wood is most often used to create the crate, but metal guides can also be used if sheathing is then carried out with heavy material, such as drywall.

The crate is a guide located vertically from floor to ceiling at a distance of 40 - 60 cm. Such stiffeners allow not only to securely fix the insulation, but also to close it with clapboard or any other material.

First, the corner elements are mounted. To do this, a bar is attached to the rib bar, the cross section of which is most often 50x100 mm, at a right angle. After manufacturing, such elements are sewn to the corner of the wall after checking the level. The entire frame is already marked from them, and stiffeners are attached.

Taking into account the possibility of moisture, all elements of the frame should be treated with antiseptics, like the walls of the house themselves.

Insulation protection

An important element of the frame with insulation are special films that prevent moisture from entering the material. After mounting the frame, a waterproofing film is stretched around the entire perimeter of the walls. Usually, it is laid in a horizontal plane, protecting the joints with a special waterproofing tape. Such a film will serve as an effective protection for the insulation, because the wetting of the material significantly increases its thermal conductivity.

It is equally important to protect the heat insulator from internal moisture. Such wall cladding almost completely removes natural ventilation, so condensation can form at the border of the insulation, which can harm the material. To avoid negative impact internal humidity, the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier, which additionally protects all residents of the house from particles of mineral wool.

Technology for applying warm plaster

The most affordable way to warm your home with your own hands. Work is carried out on the following technology.

Initially, the surface is prepared - the old layer of plaster is removed, and a reinforcing cage is fixed directly to the walls, which will serve as the basis for the new layer. Attached to the frame metal mesh size 50×50 mm. Now you can start plastering the surface, which is carried out in three stages.

The first is spraying, when a solution is thrown onto the surface of the walls, it is important to fill all the cracks and voids with it. Next, the surface is primed, the walls are leveled. The final layer is a covering, which consists in the following: a fine finish is made with sand sifted through a sieve.

Intra-wall insulation

Wooden walls are insulated not only from the inside, but also by the method of intra-wall insulation. The internal insulation of the house is then carried out according to special technology. To do this, use a moisture-resistant insulation that can withstand deformation well: linen, hemp and linen tow.

The method is only applicable to initial stage construction, when the insulation is placed in the intra-wall gap, or rather, between two walls.