Proper installation of pvc window sills with your own hands. How to install window sills on plastic windows quickly and correctly How to insert a window sill into a plastic window

A window sill is an indispensable element of any window opening, performing both decorative and, in many cases, practical function. After all, this is one of those places where are often located flower pots or other small household items.

In the past, openings were most often decorated with wooden products, and with the advent of plastic windows, window sills began to take up space in the interior. from the same material.

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC products

pros

To the benefits products include the following properties:

the material is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes;
It does not require special care;
the design is light in weight;
does not require periodic tinting, and is also not subject to shrinkage and warping, unlike wooden products;
the window sill can be installed in any length, width and shape.

Minuses

plastic is inferior in strength to the same wooden products;
when used as a coating of a glossy decorative film, the window sill is easily scratched and deteriorates appearance;
hot objects placed inadvertently (for example, a pot or pan removed from the fire) can significantly damage the surface.

Installation methods

Installation of a plastic window sill can be performed in one of several ways:

With the help of a special solution. This method was often used in the past, but now, thanks to the emergence of new ones, it is practically not used.
Using spring clips, which are screwed to the substitution profile with self-tapping screws, and the window sill itself is installed in the groove between the window and the bracket.
With the help of self-tapping screws. This is the most fast way, in which the window sill is fastened with screws to the window frame.
Another option is to install a window sill. without any fasteners(staples, self-tapping screws). This is the most time-consuming method, but at the same time the most reliable. The window sill is fixed with the help of wedges that are driven under it, thereby tightly pressing the edges of the slab to the frame.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to change the window sill, you need to prepare a small set of tools and materials:

window sill and end caps to connect the panels;
a cylinder of mounting foam and a gun for working with it;
perforator;
level, tape measure, simple pencil or marker;
jigsaw or grinder;
stationery knife;
cement mortar.

This process is not difficult and is performed as follows. Along the ends of the slab and along the entire length of the slope a niche is hollowed out using a perforator.

After that you need pry the plate with a mount or hit with a hammer. The window sill released in this way is carefully removed from the niche.

Or it is possible in such a sparing option with sawing the window sill in the middle:

Foundation preparation

Installation work

After the base is ready, you need to measure the niche and, in accordance with the obtained dimensions cut window sill from a pre-purchased blank using a jigsaw or grinder.

If necessary, the thickness of the wedges can be increased or decreased. The installation of the window sill must be carried out taking into account the fact that the plate should have a slight slope towards the room (1-2 degrees). This will allow condensation and water from watering plants to drain onto the floor, thereby liquid will not collect under the stove.

After attaching the window sill, the space between it and the base is blown out mounting foam. For better fixation, the plate can be press down evenly with a weight.

As a load, you can put five-liter water bottles in the amount of 3-4 pieces. In this position the design is left for 2-3 days so that the foam hardens well, after which its excess is removed with a clerical knife.

It is advisable not to overload the window sill, as in this case its surface may be deformed.

How to fix the foam under the windowsill?

You can do this in one of two ways:

Seal up the foam that has been cut flush tile adhesive solution. If the walls will be painted in the future, you need to putty the area plastered with glue. If it is planned to stick wallpaper, the surface is treated with an acrylic primer.
In the second case, the foam should cover with vapor permeable tape, then install a decorative flashing on top (PVC, aluminum or wood).

Learn how to properly seal the foam with a solution from the video:

A few points to consider when installing a window sill.

Working with a perforator is desirable use personal protective equipment(glasses, gloves).

The window sill should not protrude beyond the slope line more than 6 cm, otherwise the air circulation may be disturbed, causing the windows to fog up.

Mounting foam stick much better if the surface with which it will be in contact, pre-moisten.

After reviewing how to replace a PVC window sill, we can conclude that this the procedure does not require professional skills and special tool.

The main thing in this matter is to be careful and do not make a mistake with the size when cutting plates. Therefore, the rule "measure seven times, cut once" is more than appropriate in this case.

How to repair a window sill - all the secrets of installation, see the video clip:

Window replacement usually means the installation of the double-glazed window itself and the installation of a window sill. Correctly inserting a window structure with glass into the opening alone is difficult, so it is better to entrust this part of the work to professionals.

But installing a plastic window sill on your own is quite realistic. With a competent approach, the task is easy to do, plus, it will save part of the family budget.

For work you will need:

PVC window sill of the desired type.
Roulette.
Pencil.
Building level.
Jigsaw (circular saw).
Perforator.
Mounting foam.

The installation of a new plastic window sill should begin with determining the dimensions of the future structure.

How to take measurements and determine the size of the window sill

The width of the window sill is determined based on the thickness of the bearing wall. To do this, first make the appropriate measurements of the walls.

10-15 cm are added to the result obtained - the distance at which the window sill will protrude into the interior of the room and another 2 cm, which are necessary to deepen the structure under the double-glazed window.

The length of the plastic window sill is equal to the length of the window opening, plus an additional 5 cm. This is necessary so that the side parts of the plank go into the slopes, and the cutting parts are not visible.

Attention! The protrusion of the window sill above the heating radiator should not exceed 7 cm, otherwise a niche for insulating warm convection air will form in the window opening.

Purchase selection criteria

When choosing the right model of a plastic block, it should be borne in mind that the length standard for such products is in the range of 1.5-3 m, the width standard is 15-60 cm.

The length is determined depending on the size of the window opening horizontally with additional allowances for each side of 3-5 cm.

The width of the PVC window sill must correspond to the depth of the window opening, taking into account allowances for penetration under the double-glazed window and the protrusion of the block from the opening into the room.

The color, structure, decorative coating of the product is selected in accordance with the design of the window.

In this matter, it is not forbidden to be guided by personal preferences, since these indicators do not affect the quality of the installation and the performance of the product.

Preparing for installation

The window sill should go beyond the boundaries of the window opening by 2-5 cm on one side and the other. Therefore, before installing the block, you need to trim.

To do this, make markings on the panel with a pencil and cut off the excess parts with a jigsaw (manual, electric) or a circular saw.

If the walls in the room are perfectly even, the plastic window sill can be installed flush with the plastered surface.

In the case when plastic or plasterboard slopes are already installed on the window, their lower part will have to be cut in order to insert the window sill into the gap.

If the wall is uneven, you need to make small indentations (about 5 cm) on each side. After graduation installation work recesses cut in the wall will need to be puttied.

The seat should be leveled, cleared of debris. For better adhesion, the surface must be dedusted by wiping it with a damp sponge.

Installation work

The instructions for installing a plastic window do not provide for any complicated steps. The main thing is to do everything clearly, accurately, without violating the sequence of steps:

The panel prepared for installation with gaps cut out on the sides is pushed under the bottom profile of the double-glazed window to a depth of 2 cm.
Pre-prepared wooden wedges are brought under the lower part at a distance of 4 cm between adjacent bars. The angle of inclination is adjusted by changing the height of the wedges (cutting, lining chips).
The correct installation of the structure horizontally is checked using the building level. Measurements are made in all directions.

Wooden wedges are needed in order to tightly press the block to the structure of the metal-plastic window and take on part of the load.

In addition, with their help, the window sill is installed with a slight slope away from the window in order to prevent water from leaking (watering indoor flowers, condensate) under the profile of the double-glazed window.

Final stage

The gaps between the wall and the lower part of the plastic block installed on the bars are successively filled with mounting foam. From the far side, the window sill is pressed against the window frame with self-tapping screws.

A load (10-15 kg) is placed on the window sill so that the panel does not rise. Since professional polyurethane foam practically does not expand, it will be enough to put 3-4 three-liter cans of water on the panel.

The work is almost completed. It remains to wait for the complete hardening of the mounting foam, which will happen in about a day. After that, you need to remove the load from the windowsill and carefully cut off the excess foam with a clerical knife.

As you can see, the process of installing a plastic window does not foresee anything complicated. The main thing is to carry out the right preliminary measurements, cutting the block and follow the recommendations for installation.

Also watch the video of the process correct installation do-it-yourself plastic window sill.

The internal window sill is an integral part of any plastic window. Such a design is needed in a dwelling for additional insulation of the junction of the window frame and the wall, as well as for the window to have a finished look. It has the following advantages over other materials:

wooden structures need constant care, and are also damaged quite quickly;
stone window sills are distinguished by rather heavy installation, which is unrealistic to implement;
plastic structures are reliable, durable, beautiful;
have a long service life;
are easy to install;
plastic sheet is resistant to moisture;
the material has an affordable price;
plastic is resistant to chemicals;
the material is plastic and light in weight, it is easy to cut and install it with your own hands;
the canvas has high thermal insulation;
For installation, you do not need special tools, you can get by with improvised tools.

In this article, we will talk about how to properly install a plastic window sill on a window, since such designs have recently been very popular.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to prepare the workplace. To do this, you will need the following materials and tools:

level;
jigsaw;
roulette;
hacksaw;
pencil;
mounting foam;
foam gun;
perforator;
drills for puncher;
hammer;
chisel;
wooden bars;
bit.

The window sill is installed in such a way that it enters the side wall, so it will be necessary to cut out connectors about two centimeters deep in the slopes.

To carry out this procedure, you need to attach a plastic window sill to the wall and make appropriate marks on it with a marker, then carefully knock out the grooves. Such an operation requires maximum concentration and accuracy, otherwise it will take a long time to restore the slopes.

Important! In order to minimize damage to the slopes, they should be handled very carefully during the entire installation process.

The slopes are made of gypsum plaster. In this case, the procedure can be carried out with a hammer or chisel.
Concrete slopes. Then you can make recesses for the plastic window sill using a perforator.

Read also: Finishing window slopes with sandwich panels.

After performing all the above manipulations, it is necessary to clean the stand profile and the lower part of the window from pieces of plaster and dust, since these materials are used to install the window sill. Then the cleaned surfaces are moistened, it is better to use a primer for these purposes, which strengthens the surface.

Note! In order to prevent the appearance of drafts from the window, it is necessary to blow out all the cracks of the window frame well with foam.

Fit to size

Do-it-yourself window sill installation is not a complicated procedure that requires minimal cost and time. However, each window frame has its own characteristics: bulges, roughness, cracks. Therefore, before installation, if there is a finished canvas, it is necessary to cut a blank for the window sill from it. For this, the width and length of the future structure is calculated.

It should be understood that the length of the canvas should be slightly larger than the width of the window, and may go beyond the boundaries of the slopes. Basically, this output value is five, six centimeters.

The width is calculated by the formula: the width of the protruding part of the window sill + the depth of penetration of the canvas into the stand profile + the width of the surface under the window sill.

Also, on the sides of the plastic blank, you need to cut rectangles that allow it to easily enter the slope. Cutting plastic is pretty easy. To do this, use a hacksaw, grinder or electric jigsaw. If notches appear when cutting the material, then you should not worry, since all defects will be hidden by plastic overlays.

When the blank is made, it must be tried on. To do this, place a plastic blank on the surface of the window sill and slide it over the slopes and the stand profile. At this stage, it is necessary to eliminate all inaccuracies in the measurements, if any.

Installing a window sill horizontally

Before the final installation of the plastic window sill, the canvas must be leveled. To do this, linings are placed on the surface of the base. Such an operation is quite simple to perform on your own. For a regular window, you will need two linings, and for a balcony window, three.

Wedges must be placed strictly at the level of the window, such a procedure makes it possible to qualitatively align the window sill blank before installing it. Then you need to set the optimal angle of inclination. Such manipulation is required to eliminate condensate in a natural way. To do this, the edge of the slab is lowered by several degrees, and the slope angle is measured with a building level. In order for the opening to be even, these parameters should be checked in the middle and along the edges.

Read also: Warming wooden windows for the winter

You need to adjust the level with linings. For wedges, it is better to buy special plastic elements in advance, but you can also use wooden bars. It is necessary to mount a plastic window sill in such a way that there are no gaps between the canvas and the window frame. For this, clamping plates are used. Which are attached to the stand profile.

Installation (propenka) of the board

In order to properly fix the window sill yourself, you must perform the following steps:

Once again moisten the bottom of the opening and the slab.
Clean the part of the canvas that will be installed under the slopes from the protective film.
Then, using mounting foam, blow out the gap between the profile and the bottom edge of the opening.
Then apply a wide layer of foam on the entire surface of the base, especially carefully treat the far corners. At this stage, it must be taken into account that the thickness of the foam should not exceed the thickness of the installed wedges, otherwise, when solidifying, the material can greatly lift the plastic window sill.
Next, to evenly distribute the load on the plastic window sill, you need to put a load. It is recommended to do this on the inner edge of the board.
The window sill is installed, now it remains only to wait until the mounting foam dries.

Installation of a window sill on a balcony

Nowadays, it has become popular to install not only windows, but also balcony structures from plastic. Such material retains heat well in the apartment and saves usable space. However, it should be understood that the installation procedure itself is quite expensive pleasure. Therefore, many residents multi-storey buildings perform the procedure on their own.

Before you start replacing the plastic window sill, you need to prepare metal brackets. They are necessary if it is not possible to get the canvas under window frame. The brackets are fixed to the parapet with anchors, which increase the load on the PVC board and reinforce the entire structure.

Brackets are installed at a distance from each other, which does not exceed one meter. After installing the panel, you need to check the angle of inclination with a building level. Before fixing the holders for the canvas, you need to tighten the thread well. This operation makes it possible to align the PVC board horizontally.

When the mounting foam solidifies, it increases in volume, and the window sill can, having risen, be deformed. Therefore, before foaming the window sill space, the panel is loaded using any available weighting agents - water containers, books, collapsible dumbbells. They will hold it in place, and the foam will be squeezed out along the entire length. Excess hardened foam is cut off with a knife and final finishing is carried out.

After installing the window sill, all detected gaps and cracks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes and at the bottom of the window are eliminated using silicone sealant. It is applied in a thin strip and compacted by swiping a finger from above. Excess is removed in a timely manner with a damp cloth. After drying, it will be more difficult to do this, and the result will be less accurate.

Excess dried foam is also removed, cutting it off with a clerical knife to a depth of 1 cm. Next, the surface under the panel and the large voids found flush with the wall are filled with ordinary plaster. On the ends of the window sill, using glue for PVC products, plugs are installed. At the end of all work, after the final finishing of the slopes, it remains to remove the protective film.

As you can see, installing a window sill on your own does not require special skills. The only significant obstacle may be the lack of the necessary tool and purchase Supplies(their leftovers may no longer be useful). Accordingly, the costs will be higher than the services of a qualified specialist.

Instructions for installing a plastic window sill

Materials and tools:

Installation of PVC window sill.

plastic profile;
bars;
wedges;
metal strips;
sealant;
mounting foam;
special glue;
building level;
pencil;
jigsaw;
saw;
drill;
foam gun;
staples;
self-tapping screws.

First you need to prepare materials for work. Then you need to perform the necessary measurements. At the same time, consider the properties of the PVC profile, the height of the heating radiator. If the distance between the window sill and the radiator is too small, this can impair air circulation.

The length of the model should be several centimeters longer than the width of the window. When choosing the width of the model, it must be taken into account that the window sill recedes from the plane of the wall by no more than 8 cm. If the product is too wide, this may disrupt the air circulation between the radiator and the structure.

Then the structure is trimmed. You can order a ready-made exhibit, which has standard sizes, or cut it with your own hands from a PVC profile. In this case, you need to leave a margin of about 5 cm. You need to check if there are any defects on the product. In some cases, the model must be trimmed to fit the window. To do this, first perform the markup with a pencil.

Plastic models can be up to 3 m long. The width of the model is usually from 25 to 75 cm. If the product has a width greater than necessary, it is cut from the side that is mounted to the wall. The cut line should be 1 cm beyond the stiffeners inside the model.

The product must be cut with a jigsaw or saw. At the same time, make sure that no cracks appear. Cutting work is carried out with protective gloves.

Then proceed to the next stage of work - the installation of the lining. This work is done with the help of bars. They are placed under the windowsill. The entire load from the product is transferred to the bars. If the product has cracks, then they are filled with mounting foam.

Then you need to check whether the product is firmly attached to the frame. Next, you need to cut down the slopes to the wall. The installation site of the structure is cleaned of contaminants. Fix the wedges on which the window sill is installed. The wedges must not protrude beyond the level of the wall. The product is installed in a groove. The design should fit snugly against the window frame. The gap between the wall and the product cannot exceed 4 mm. The part of the structure that protrudes beyond the internal slopes must adjoin the wall closely without gaps.

Metal strips are mounted under the structure, which are included in the lower plug of the window sill. This is necessary in order to ensure the strength of the product. Then the structure is installed in its place. To do this, the product is pre-aligned, and then fixed. Mounting the model can be done in several ways, which were described earlier. The length of the product must be greater than the distance between the slopes.

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Installation work

The first step is cleaning. It is better to produce it with a construction vacuum cleaner, because brushes and brushes are not able to remove all the dust.

Moisture is necessary for good adhesion of the foam to other materials. Therefore, it is recommended to moisten the surface with water. But you can go further and kill two birds with one stone. You need to use not water, but a primer. In this way, it will be possible to remove residual dust, as well as provide the necessary moisture. You can apply it with a brush, but it is more convenient to do this with a manual sprayer. If you use the latter, then cover the windows with something or wipe them immediately. If the impregnation is allowed to dry, then then it will have to be removed with consequences.

Better to use a primer

The window sill is being marked. Its total width will be the width of the opening plus 10 cm (this overlap is necessary to provide 5 cm for each "ear"). The depth will be equal to the distance from the window stand to the middle of the heater, if it is under the window. Better not to close it completely. If you do this, then warm air will not flow to the windows, and they will fog up, which will lead to condensation and the growth of mold and mildew. If there is no battery and radiator, then the flight can be carried out by 5 cm. In some cases, at the request of the customer, an even larger protrusion is made. Perhaps the space will be used as an extension of the desktop or something else. In this case, it is necessary to install metal corners as supports. Their base is recessed into the plaster. The length of the window sill is adjusted taking into account the fact that the edges will be recessed into the wall by 1 cm.

Features of installing a PVC window sill

With a hacksaw or electric jigsaw pruning is performed.

Wooden wedges for a plastic window

Next, you need to prepare the supports on which the plane will lie. Special plastic plates are often used, but they may not provide the necessary rigidity. Instead, you can use parts of the trimmed window sill. They should be placed every 40-50 cm. They are set using a building level or using a level (when using the latter, a line is projected and measurements are made from it at both ends to the supports, the distance should be the same). Their height should be such that the window sill butt went under the lower part of the frame and rested against the installation bar. In order not to move them in the process, you can fix them with self-tapping screws. If the site is from a gas block, then you can simply screw it through with self-tapping screws, in the case of a brick, you will have to use perforators.

PVC window sill installation scheme

You can go the other way and install the supports not across, but along the windowsill. They can be made from plaster beacons. In this case, there will be more emphasis, which will definitely eliminate deflections and creases.

Window sill alignment

With the help of a gun and mounting foam, gaps are sealed, which may be under the window. Pay special attention to the corners. There are times when everything is installed beautifully, and a draft blows from below, which is an indicator of inattention.

Fixing

Plugs are mounted on the window sill, and it is tried on in its place. If there are no gaps between it and the window, then installation can be continued. In the case when the gap is large enough, it is necessary to raise the supports; at its minimum values, it can be expected that the foam compensates for the gap. Until the repair is completed, the film does not need to be removed, it will be enough to lift it in those places that will hide in the wall and under the window.

View of the window sill from below

If the supports were mounted lengthwise, then the main layer of foam must be applied before the window sill is installed in its place. If across, then blowing can be done in several stages. Before installation - the part that is closer to the window. Then walk along the middle line, and then along the edge.

Filling the gap with mounting foam

For a day, the plane must be pressed down with a load. To do this, you can use books, eggplants with water, dumbbells (but it is advisable to make a lining of durable material under them), etc.

Fixing the plastic window sill

After polymerization and drying of the foam, its excess is cut off. Moreover, under the windowsill, it must be cut flush by about 1 cm, so that you can safely putty this space and the applied material has a sufficient layer.

We seal the seam under the window sill with cement putty

How to install a window sill

All window sills are mounted according to the general principle. Since plastic window sill boards are more often preferred for do-it-yourself installation, we will describe in detail step-by-step instructions specifically for PVC window sills, noting at the end the features of mounting structures made of other materials.

Width and length of the window sill

Before buying materials, it is necessary to correctly measure the place where the window sill will stand. The length of the window sill is determined as follows:

measure the width of the opening near the window and from the side that is closer to the room and turns out to be longer;
at least 1 cm must be added to the maximum width of the opening on each side in order to hide the edges of the board in the slopes;
if the window sill sticks out, and is not flush with the wall, then you also need to take into account the lugs. Window sill parameters Window sill parameters

To determine the width of the window sill, you need to measure the width of the wall to the window. 1.5 - 2 cm are added to the result obtained to deepen the board into the window groove. This width is sufficient if you plan to install flush with the wall, which is feasible for flat walls.

Quarter window measurements

Note! When the walls are uneven, it is recommended to measure them on both sides of the window. This will allow you to adjust the window sill and install it evenly.

A protrusion can be provided, the size of which should not exceed 8 cm, so as not to interfere with the convection of air from the battery. After all, this will not only disrupt the uniform distribution of heat in the room, but also in cold weather will lead to damage to the window as a result of the formation of frost.

In accordance with the measurements obtained, the window sill is adjusted to the desired length and width. Now you can start installation.

Dismantling the old window

Fixing windows and sills

Window sill installation

Step 1. Try on the future window sill at the installation site. Trim the board if necessary.

Note! Cutting plastic and stone is recommended with a grinder, a jigsaw is more suitable for wood, MDF and chipboard.

Step 2. Make grooves in the walls with a puncher if necessary. The edges of the window sill will go into these recesses.

We prepare the opening with a puncher

Cut to size window sill

Step 3 Clean the installation surface of dust and debris.

Step 4. A window sill is inserted into the groove of the window profile, having previously removed the protective film from the inserted edge.

A window sill is inserted into the groove of the window profile, having previously removed the protective film from the inserted edge.

Step 5 Wedges of wood are laid under the windowsill, starting from the extreme ones and ending with the central ones. The underlays should not protrude beyond the wall and the inner edge of the window sill. The maximum distance between wedges should be 40 cm.

Foam with low-expanding foam

Step 6. . If there are deviations from the horizon, then they rule with the help of additional wedges.

Align the window sill on the spirit level

Note! The board should have a slope from the window to the inner edge of about 0.2 cm. This measure will prevent the accumulation of liquid near the window: the water will simply drain.

Flush wall installation

Step 7 A load is placed on the windowsill. Total load should be 10-20 kg.

Load is placed on the window sill

Step 8. After additionally checking the horizontal position of the window sill, proceed to fix it. For this, mounting foam is used. It is better to take professional foam and a special spray gun. Additional fixation to the window profile is carried out from the outside using self-tapping screws.

Foaming the window sill

Note! When the foam gets where it should not be, it is removed immediately with a cloth. If it has already hardened, then you can wipe the foam with the help of special solvents.

Step 9. After 24 hours, remove the load and cut off the excess foam.

Now you can install plugs from the ends, and remove the protective film.

If a decision is made to install a wooden window sill, then on the inside of the board, it is necessary to attach felt that has undergone antiseptic treatment with the help of a shred. The ends of stone window sills are also protected with a felt layer before installation. The rest of the installation takes place according to the same principle as for plastic products.

Installation of window sills

Thus, the installation of a window sill is not difficult, especially when it comes to a plastic board. The main thing is to observe accuracy in alignment during work and not to overdo it with mounting foam.

Video - Installation of a window sill

Style and design

Insofar as metal-plastic windows often have a white color, then PVC window sills were originally made only in this version. With the growing popularity of this product, different color schemes of both windows and window sills began to appear. Most often a variation white color is an imitation of wood, which is used in bedrooms or in children's rooms. In addition, this option allows you to install modern structures in a wooden house that will not stand out externally, fitting into the concept of the building.

For the production of such products, laminated PVC films under the tree are used. To give the desired properties, additional impregnation with melamine resin is also carried out.

In this way, you can give the surface the look of any wood, be it oak, alder or cherry.

In addition, window sills with a finish under a natural stone most often it is granite or marble. Thanks to this solution, you can avoid buying an expensive and heavy product, but get the same beautiful option window decoration. If you need to somehow decorate the room, which is especially often the case with a children's room, then you can resort to using colored options for window sills.

They may have different texture and form, which are selected according to the wishes of the client.

If we talk about convenience, then for each type of house there are options of different lengths and widths, so that you can manage the space as correctly as possible. Brick laying is different in width from the walls panel house, therefore, the window sills here need different ones. Speaking of original design solutions, then you can make a countertop window sill that will perform two functions at once, thereby making it possible to do without buying a table.

This option would look good in small kitchens or bedrooms where you need to place many functional areas in a small space.

The use of a glossy or matte finish, original shapes and sizes - this is all that the owner of a PVC window sill can get. Often, such options are made to order and they cost a little more, but the appearance of a room with such an accessory will be inimitable. Each owner decides for himself what exactly to install in his home based on taste preferences and financial capabilities.

How to wash a window sill

When common home remedies such as: soap, soda, vinegar, tooth powder, chalk turned out to be powerless in the fight against pollution, special chemicals. The choice of modern household chemicals will be able to cope with any contamination on the plastic surface. You only need to correctly formulate your problem to the sales assistant in the household chemicals department, emphasizing that you need a plastic cleaner.

Careful operation and regular maintenance will help to avoid problems associated with the laundering of difficult contaminants. The main thing is not to use metal scrapers and abrasives: they leave scratches in which dirt then accumulates.

As a decoration of the adjoining space, one should consider a waterfall, an alpine slide, a fountain, a wattle fence, a flower bed made of stones, a trellis, a rose garden, a mixborder, a dry stream.

Do-it-yourself installation of a window sill or use the services of a specialized construction team - it's up to you. In fact, the process of installing a window sill is not complicated, however, it requires the presence or purchase of necessary tools, consumables (the remnants of which may no longer be useful) and work skills. If the first attempt to install a PVC plate with your own hands is unsuccessful, then the total cost of self-installation can be much more than the wages of the master.

Video: how to install a window sill with your own hands

What is a window sill made of?

The materials from which window sills are made today can be different. The type of window sill determines the method of its installation.

Wooden window sills

Wood, such as oak, cherry, pine, has long been the most common material from which window sills were made. Wooden window sills do not lose their connoisseurs to this day. The wood is pre-dried and treated with antiseptic solutions and varnish.

Wooden window sills

The main advantage of a wooden window sill board is its natural origin and noble appearance. But such material is expensive, and solid wood products are subject to deformation. To save the window sill, you need to protect it from exposure to abrasives, water and aggressive chemicals, as well as periodically renew the coating.

Wooden window sills

Glued laminated timber boards are less expensive and more resistant to external influences if they are made in compliance with the technology.

Chipboard and MDF

As a cheaper alternative to wood, many firms produce window boards made of chipboard or fiberboard. Products are covered with a special film on top. MDF is more durable and moisture resistant than chipboard. If the integrity of the film is violated, water that has fallen on the chipboard can lead to swelling and significant deformation. MDF is more expensive, but more stable.

Window sills made of wood shavings or fibers are very easy to clean. The main thing is not to use abrasives.

stone products

stone window sill

Connoisseurs natural materials often prefer stone window sills. Most often it is granite or marble. Stone products are beautiful, each window sill has a unique pattern. But this pleasure is not cheap.

In addition, it is easy to leave a scratch on the polished surfaces of natural stone. Stone window sills easily absorb dirt, such as coffee, wine or tea stains. Yes, they have poor insulation. Due to the high cost and heavy weight, it is better to invite professionals to install a stone window sill.

Marble window sills

An alternative to a natural stone window sill is a board made of artificial stone acrylic based. Such products are not inferior in strength, heat resistance and beauty, but at the same time they are cheaper and do not scratch.

Plastic window sills

PVC products in construction are becoming more and more popular every year. This also applies to plastic window sills, which have a whole list of advantages.

From above, window sills are covered with a laminating film, which can have different colors and patterns. This allows you to choose a product in accordance with the overall decorative line of the room.
Plastic is resistant to moisture and is not a breeding ground for microorganisms, including molds, which is especially appreciated by indoor plant lovers.
Modern plastic window sills, thanks to special stiffening ribs, tolerate mechanical loads well.
These products are easy to wash.
Do not deteriorate their qualities from exposure to direct sunlight.
Not afraid of temperature changes.
Excellent heat retention.
Easy to assemble by yourself. Plastic window sills under wood texture

The PVC window sill also has disadvantages:

non-natural origin of the material;
the laminating film, which performs a decorative role, can peel off and be easily scratched;
high temperatures, such as a hot pot, can cause the window sill to warp.

However, plastic window sills are most often used for installation on their own.

Plastic window sills

Installation subtleties

In order to install a new PVC window sill with your own hands, you need to properly install the structure. The installation process of such parts can be carried out using:

mounting foam and special glue, which are used to fix the window sill;
brackets for fixing;
profile for installing PVC products.

The simplest and convenient option for installation there will be an option with foam. The first step is to prepare wooden wedges that will serve as a support for the new window sill. They are placed over the entire surface of the prepared base.

It is important to check the evenness of the installation with a level and note the slope of the product. It is necessary that the bevel is directed into the room in order to give direction to the condensate not to the stove, but to the room

If there are any inconsistencies in these indicators, then the wooden wedges can be increased, or, conversely, reduced, depending on the situation.

All work is carried out in stages to avoid installation errors and unsatisfactory results. Once the wedges are of the right size, the free space between the sill and the base is covered with foam. So that the angle of inclination does not change, it is important to install weighting on the windowsill, which will give the necessary resistance, so the foam will harden correctly. For complete solidification, at least two or even three days should pass, after which you can remove the weighting and use the window sill.

The process of installing a window and a window sill goes step by step, and it is important to take into account all the steps in order to get a decent result in the end. This process is inextricably linked with the decoration of the walls, therefore, when planning the installation option, you need to think in advance how further work will be carried out.

If you plan to put a window sill before finishing with sandwich panels or drywall, then you do not need to ditch the bottom. Increasing the thickness, the plate will be pressed with the help of the finishing material.
If the slopes are lined with varnish or putty paint, then in this case it is necessary to ditch the surface.

If it is planned to use massive elements in the form of wooden panels, lining, cork, Venetian plaster for finishing the window, then it is important to take into account the protrusion of the slab, taking into account the thickness of the coating. Otherwise, it will be recessed inside the opening, which will not look aesthetically pleasing.

Thus, window replacement requires that the old concrete window sill is also removed and replaced with a new one. For the convenience of further work, it is desirable to remove the old structure without much damage to the masonry.

You can replace a heavy and outdated window sill with the help of a modern PVC product, which is not only light and strong enough, but also has a diverse appearance that can be matched to the style of the room, which is very convenient.

The work process is reduced to the following stages:

Installation of a new product, putting it into pre-prepared grooves.
Aligning the window sill with the window using wooden wedges.
The fixing process, when you can fix the window sill with mounting foam, which will provide excellent performance for many years.
The use of plugs, which can have a different shape. Depending on the design features window sill, they can be without ears, if the thickness of the product is quite large and there is a desire to make it look like a stone monolith, or with ears when minimum thickness and simple version window element.

To change the window sill quickly and correctly, it is important to complete all the steps, which include the dismantling of old structures, the installation of new ones and Finishing work. This is important because improper removal of an old product will add unnecessary work, inaccuracies in installing a new one will lead to operational problems, and improper finishing work will affect the final appearance.

To remove the foam that remains after installation, you must first cut it off with a clerical knife, and then apply a layer of tile adhesive, which must be puttied after drying. Only after that the surface can be painted or wallpapered.

PVC window sill marking

Following the turnkey plastic window installation technology, the plastic window sill should be installed after already installed plastic window. In the previous article, I already talked about the fact that the tide with the window sill are installed at the same time.

In order to understand how to install a window sill on plastic windows, you need to understand for yourself that the most important operation in this process is the marking of the PVC window sill. Further, step-by-step verified instructions with a photo, and my video is at the end of the article.

First, take a piece of paper and a pencil. We draw a window in a section in width, in a simple way, in the form of an elongated rectangle. View from above. And we enter the value of the window width in our rectangle.

Secondly, we find the starting point of the markup. This is done in the following way. We remove the size of the window sill in length. We write the value above the rectangle. We get two numerical values in a column that need to be subtracted. As in school, in the first grade))).

The resulting difference is divided in half. And we get the main figure, which is determined by the starting point for marking the PVC window sill. This figure is equal to the distance from the edge of the window sill to the edge of the frame on each side.

Thus, after installing the window sill and slopes, we will have the same:

The side protrusions of the window sill - "ears" and
Slope angles

Thirdly, continuing the markup, we take two locksmith squares (90 degrees) with a scale of 30 cm and 50 cm. Next, we attach the first large square to the window sill profile with one side, and press it against the wall with the other perpendicular gap. The main thing to understand is that the position of the square is the future position of the cut-off window sill. It remains only to take the first dimension along the length of the window sill, and write down this dimension on our sheet of paper, on which the starting point for measuring has already been determined.

Fourthly, with the help of the second square, pressing it against the inner wall of the room, we fix the second size along the width of the window sill. After that, the last cutting line of the side protrusion is automatically obtained.

Similarly, dimensions are taken on the right side of the window sill.

After that, the markup is applied to the window sill itself.

This markup we've looked at is the simplest. It is made in a flat perpendicular opening.

It happens that the opening has a step configuration, then it is necessary to take several measurements. But, the principle of markup does not change.

Fifthly, if the opening has an angle, then the marking of the PVC window sill is carried out at an angle. To do this, as in the first case, we press a large square with one side against the window sill profile, and direct the other perpendicular side at an angle. Imagine that this will be the angular cut line. And we attach the second square to the inner wall of the room. The intersection point of the gons is the end point. We fix its value. Further, leaving the second small square in a fixed position, we again attach the large square to the window sill profile at 90 degrees. We fix the second value at the intersection of the squares.

Thus, the marking of the PVC window sill is done. It must also be said that the cutting line of the side protrusion can be, as flush with inner wall premises, and deepened into this wall. It depends on whether the customer will make repairs after installing the window.

markup

Of course, before you put the window sill, it must be marked. We measure the width of the window block, let it be 140 cm. We will buy the window sill 15-20 centimeters longer, since it should go beyond the plane of the slopes by 7-10 cm (this is a matter of taste). So, we bought a 155-centimeter one. Let's put it aside for now.

We look closely at our window opening:

Everything is fine with us, the foam layer will turn out to be about 2-3 cm. If you get more, it would be better to raise the lower “slope”, for example, with a self-leveling floor. So the design will come out stronger (my personal opinion). Shortly before installation, the surface will need to be primed, do not forget.

Window sill marking

Next, we must find the exact middle of the window (we have 70 cm from the edges) and, accordingly, the exact middle of the window sill (77.5 cm). In addition, we draw their central axes with a pencil. It is from them that we will set aside all sizes so that the final result is symmetrical. As the article progresses, you will understand what I mean.

Now let's take the dimensions. There are four of them in total, I have labeled them A, B, C and D.

A - approximately equal to the width of the window block, perhaps a little more if space allows; but nothing less.
B - the distance between the corners of the draft slopes. As a rule, it is larger than A by several centimeters.
B is the distance between the far edge of our hero and the plane of the wall.

Under the window block there is a special groove about 2 cm deep, where it starts. You need to measure it from the groove, and not from the plane of the window, be careful. It is also highly desirable that the wall with the window has already been plastered. Let's gouge some plaster under the "ears" and measure B so that they start "inside" the plane of the wall.

All the cut edges with us will then simply be closed by slopes and a wall.

G is the total width of the window sill.

It is chosen in such a way that it would vertically close no more than half the thickness of the radiator under the window.

Otherwise, in cold weather, condensation will form on the windows, since the warm air from the radiator will not reach the windows. Usually the protrusion is 5-7 cm, it is already undesirable to do more. Installers often make this mistake.

Marked window sill

This is what our window sill will look like after marking:

cut off window sill

And after cutting like this:

Fitting

We try it on in place, insert it into the groove, manually set it approximately to the level, inspect it for jambs:

Everything is in order here, you can set the window sill in height. Since ancient times, wooden wedges have been used for this, but in general, anything can be used as supports. This time I conducted an experiment and did not use wedges, but ordinary self-tapping screws, which I set on a laser.

Needless to say, the experiment was only partially successful. The near edge was exposed easily and quickly, and with the far (what is included in the groove) there were difficulties. After all, who puts windows in our country? That's right, Uncle Vasya. And I did not take into account that the windows, in fact, may not stand strictly horizontally and even bend!

I had to put improvised means under the far edge, namely Penoplex insulation. It is necessary to ensure that there is no noticeable gap between the window sill and the window, that is, it must be tightly pressed against window block from below.

It may be that the window is arcing. In this case, you need to choose the least evil. In my opinion, the main thing is the absence of a gap, and the unevenness of the surface is not particularly noticeable to the eye.

There are two requirements for the near edge: it must be strictly horizontal, and must be below the far edge, that is, the window sills are placed at a slope.

The slope is usually 5-10 mm per meter. That is, for a window sill 60 cm thick, the near edge should be located 3-6 mm lower than the far one. Such a bias is invisible to the eye.

And it is done in order to prevent puddles, for example, when watering flowers. The water will flow down. In principle, if you do not want to do a bias - do not do it. I'm just describing the general case. If you use wedges, push them behind the plane of the wall so that later they do not interfere and you do not have to pull them out.

It is more convenient when setting the slope to use not our product itself, but trimmings from it. Inserts one end into the groove, put a level on the cut and evaluate the slope. As soon as everything is set, we insert the “patient” again in place and see if there are any gaps and if the necessary slope is provided:

By the way, the photo shows that, firstly, I partially tore off the film from the far edge. I think it's clear why. Secondly, I aligned the central axes of the window and the window sill. We see that there are no gaps. If you use wedges, there is a possibility that they may move.

To prevent this from happening, you can coat them with a plaster solution, for example, alabaster. Then they won't go anywhere.

We can start installation.

Preparation for work

The preparatory stage includes measurements of the future structure, as well as all materials and tools, as well as preparing the window opening for the installation of a new window sill.

Before buying, you need to make several measurements, namely:

Window sill width. It is equal to the width of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.
Window sill length. Measured as the length of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.

It should be noted that a window sill that is too large and wide can significantly impair air circulation, therefore, water droplets will accumulate on the windows and their service life will be reduced.

From the tools, you should prepare or purchase:

Electric jigsaw or grinder.
Level.
Hammer.
Ruler corner.
Masking tape.

Materials you will need:

Construction foam.
Sealant.
End caps.
PVC panel of suitable size.
Plastic pads.

Surface preparation for window sill installation

First, you need to remove the old structure. This is done with a jigsaw or hacksaw. Next, you need to remove the cement screed around the edges.

Clear the area of debris, crumbling material, insulation and everything else. This will ensure that the new window sill is securely fastened. It is best to vacuum the base under the window sill, so you are guaranteed to reliably clean the base.

If you plan to install a window sill with ledges on the sides, then you should create small openings so that the panel enters easily. First, the wall is filed, then the opening is knocked out with a hammer right size. The openings must be the same on both sides and such that PVC panel inserted easily.

After cleaning the base under the window sill, it should be well primed to ensure adhesion of the mortar to level the base.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to prepare the workplace. To do this, you will need the following materials and tools:

level;
jigsaw;
roulette;
hacksaw;
pencil;
mounting foam;
foam gun;
perforator;
drills for puncher;
hammer;
chisel;
wooden bars;
bit.

The window sill is installed in such a way that it enters the side wall, so it will be necessary to cut out connectors about two centimeters deep in the slopes.

To carry out this procedure, you need to attach a plastic window sill to the wall and make appropriate marks on it with a marker, then carefully knock out the grooves. Such an operation requires maximum concentration and accuracy, otherwise it will take a long time to restore the slopes.

Important! In order to minimize damage to the slopes, they should be handled very carefully during the entire installation process. . Next, we move on to making recesses.

The slopes are made of gypsum plaster. In this case, the procedure can be carried out with a hammer or chisel.
Concrete slopes. Then you can make recesses for the plastic window sill using a perforator.

Note! In order to prevent the appearance of drafts from the window, it is necessary to blow out all the cracks of the window frame well with foam. .

Foundation preparation

This step may take the most time, but it is actually the most important in the whole process.

See how the window is installed

It is important to assess whether there are any deviations from the horizontal plane. To do this, we apply a level or, along the lower edge of the frame, start up a projection from a laser level

In the future, the window sill will be set exactly on it, which can also lead to skew. If there are small deviations, then this is not a problem, it will be further described how they can be compensated.

We measure the width of the window opening. It is important to remember that the plane of the stand should be recessed into the slopes by 1 cm from each end, and the protruding part on the sides should go beyond the opening by 3 cm or more.

We make grooves in the slopes, where the ends of the window sill will go. The edge of the frame will serve as a guide in this regard.

Pay attention to the edge of the stand on which the window stands, namely the lower edge of the frame.

In order to do everything right, you can use several methods. Using a laser plane builder, a horizontal line is projected onto the opening. From this line along the window, a measurement is made to the edge, the value is fixed. Further, the same distance is laid off from the same line, but already on the slope. If there is no level, then you can use either an ordinary level, which is placed close to the bottom line of the frame, aligned in a horizontal plane with a bubble indicator and a mark is made.

A straight line is applied that will connect our mark and the edge of the frame.

Most likely, there is a metal corner at the corners of the slopes. In no case should you try to knock it down with a chisel and a hammer, as you can damage it completely. For this, it is better to use a grinder. Two small transverse cuts are simply made to its width. An incision is also made along the applied line.

Slope preparation

With the help of a chisel or other suitable tool and a hammer, recesses of 1.5–2 cm are knocked out.

Next, you need to evaluate the surface on which the installation will be carried out. Attention must be paid not only to how uneven it is, but also to how far it is from the bottom of the window. Ideally, it should not exceed 4 cm. This is due to the fact that it is at this thickness that the foam polymerizes in the best way, which makes it sufficiently dense and durable. If the layer size is large, then voids may form inside, which reduces the bearing capacity, and can also cause drafts.

In the event that the size exceeds 4 cm, it is necessary to reduce the gap. This can be done with the help of improvised means. For example, you can build a small formwork from the rule and pour the solution. In this case, it will be easier to bring the required level. If the installation is carried out at a time when there are still remains of a brick or foam block from the walls inside the room, then the base can be laid out of them, and all the cracks can be sealed with mortar or glue. After that, you need to give at least a day for everything to stand and grab.

In the event that the level of the base will rise with the help of a foam block, it must be soaked in water for a short time. Due to its porosity, it absorbs moisture well, and if it takes too much from the solution on which it will be placed, there will be no setting. Wetting saturates the foam block with moisture, so setting will occur as well as possible.

The preparatory stage and its features

At this stage, it is necessary to measure the window sill and purchase material for self-installation.

Required tools:

Schemes for installing a window sill when using a stand profile.

building level;
electric jigsaw or file with fine teeth;
self-tapping screws;
electric or cordless screwdriver;
metal plates;
special linings (wooden blocks or very dense synthetic material);
mounting construction foam;
foam gun;
silicone.

The size of the system is performed by a tape measure. It should be 5-10 cm larger than the width of the window opening. At the same time, it must be taken into account that if, when installing a wide device, it closes the heating radiator, then the movement of air flows in the room will be disturbed, and the temperature will change. Therefore, the most acceptable width is the one that will allow it to protrude from the wall level by no more than 8 cm. The length of the product must exceed the distance between the slopes so that the element can enter it by 2-3 cm. In addition, it must protrude beyond the slopes by 5 cm.

The design itself can be different: smooth, ribbed, rough. It all depends on personal preferences, the appearance of the window and the style of the interior.

At the same stage, it is necessary to remove all debris from the bottom of the wall on which the window sill will be installed. If there are peeling elements of the plaster, they must be removed. If a fairly large gap has formed, it must be repaired with a solution. Further installation can be carried out after its final solidification.