How to install an interior door yourself: install a door with a box yourself. How to install an interior door with your own hands? Self-installation of an interior door

If you have a need installations interior doors, then do not rush to call an expensive master, because if you wish, this can be done with your own hands. Few things, understanding in the construction business, you can use our advice and independently install interior Door .

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We install interior doors with our own hands

The process of installing interior doors is quite complicated, so a positive result depends on clear implementation every action.

If you decide to do this kind of work on one's own, then be patient. You should carefully study all the instructions and tips for installing interior doors with your own hands, and then scrupulously carry out all actions.

Observing all the rules that are given below, you and your loved ones will be satisfied with brand new interior doors.

We install interior doors ourselves. Training

To get started, you need straighten the walls cover them with putty and plaster. After that, the wall in which the door will stand should be well dried, otherwise there is a risk of displacement of the door frame.

The floor must also be prepared for flooring. When installing an interior door consider the final height of the future flooring, to correctly calculate the height of the door frame. If you are replacing an existing door, then the last conditions are not so important.

The next step will be selection and purchase of interior doors which we will discuss in the next article.

You can purchase the box and doors separately, or as a complete set. The door frame can be made on one's own. This U-shaped design, consisting of box timber. In essence, these are two racks, as well as a horizontal rail, called a lintel.

Note! The best way door frame - without a horizontal bar at the bottom (sill). If you do not hide this bar, then it will only interfere with walking.

When you choose a timber, carefully make sure that there are no bumps and black (dead) knots on it.

Important! The thickness of the door frame must be equal to the thickness of the door, otherwise the interior door cannot be installed.

To see the qualitative result of our work, it is necessary professional tool. However, it is expensive. At the same time, if doing work simple tools, that is, the risk of not maintaining the required accuracy.

You will need:

• Hacksaw
• Level meter
• miter box
• Tape measure for measuring distance
• Screwdriver Set
• Hammer
• A set of chisels.

Power tools:

• Electric milling machine
• Perforator
• Miter saw
• screwdriver
• Circular.

Consumables:

• Mounting foam
• Nails
• self-tapping screws
• Wedges
• Bars.

We begin to install an interior door

To begin with, you need to decide How will the interior door open?. This largely depends on the layout of the house.

For example, in the bathroom it is recommended to make doors that open outward, because there is not enough space. And if the door is a transition from a small corridor to a large room, then you can install doors that will open into the room.

Let's move on to door frame installation. This is the most crucial moment and the basis of all work on the installation of interior doors, since the entire success of the work depends on the installation of racks.

1. With a miter saw, we saw off the upper parts of the racks at an angle of 45 °. If you do not have a miter saw, then this operation can be done with a small hacksaw and a miter box.

2. We measure the stands. It is better to measure and mark the desired length of the two racks from the inside.

3. Now let's prepare the lintel. Similarly, we measure it from the inside.

4. With a miter saw or a small hacksaw, we saw off the lintel from both sides at an angle of 45 °.

How to properly install an interior door

Installation of door hinges

Installation door hinges is also a responsible undertaking. Dimensions must be accurate regarding the door leaf and door frame. It is also necessary to accurately calculate the dimensions of the recesses of the loops.

1. On the rack on the inside, you need to step back 20 cm. A loop will be fixed at this place.

2. The hinge installation distance will be 0.4 cm (the distance from the door leaf to the pillar) + directly the recess in which the hinge will be located.

3. We put the loop in the right place and circle it with a pencil.

4. It is better to make a platform for a loop using a milling cutter, and if there is none, then this work is done with chisels.

5. By the same principle, we make the seat of the lower hinge, which should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the lower edge of the door leaf.

6. We make recesses for hinges both on the rack and on the door.

Door frame installation
Door frame installation should happen like this:

1. We fix the racks perpendicularly to the lintel with self-tapping screws. But first you need to make holes with a drill of a smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.

Then we screw the self-tapping screws into the holes obtained, otherwise the structure at the screwing points may burst. It will be enough to screw in only 4 screws, 2 per side. The whole procedure must be done on a soft substrate (for example, on cardboard) so as not to scratch door leaf.

2. We place the resulting box in the wall opening, while fixing it with spacers and wedges.

Do not forget! There must be a gap of 2-3 cm between the box and the wall for mounting foam.

3. Align the door frame horizontally and vertically using a level.

4. We finally fix the entire box with self-tapping screws, but before that we drill holes in the box and in the wall.

Before drilling the wall, we mark with a drill through our door frame. If the opening is made of brick, then you should hit the whole brick with a self-tapping screw, and not in the gap between the bricks, otherwise the dowels will not hold well.

5. After the holes are ready, which can be made 6-8 per side, dowels can be installed.

6. Now we screw the screws (it is better to use wood screws) into the dowels through the door frame. It will be more convenient to screw in the screws with an electric drill with an appropriate nozzle or a screwdriver. Do not tighten the screws to the limit, otherwise the box may bend. When screwing in, periodically check the level of the structure.

7. Installing hinges.

Be careful! The hinges must be installed so that the door leaf can be hung onto the hinges from above.

8. We put the doors, hanging it on the hinges, and check whether the door closes and opens correctly. The door should not open or close on its own - this will indicate that the interior door is not installed correctly. If there are any defects, we eliminate them.

9. Now you need to close the door and insert small spacers of appropriate sizes between the door and the uprights (you can use cardboard) so that in the future the foam does not deform the door frame.

10. And finally, we apply foam between the wall and the box. Start filling the vertical seam from the bottom. Do not overdo it, fill in about a third of the total volume of the joints, as the foam increases in size as it dries.

In addition, excessive application of foam leads to its overspending. Also, excess foam can get on the front of the door. The foam should dry for about a day at a temperature of 20 ° C.

11. After the foam dries, you can remove all spacers.

Platband installation

After the door frame is installed, there is still install platbands.

1. To do this, we cut the required length at an angle of 45 °.

Advice! So that when cutting the casing, there are no chips left, and the cut is “clean”, saw from the outside.

It is better to cut the slats for platbands, leaving a margin of a few millimeters to insure in case of an error.

2. We fix the resulting platbands with screws, nails or glue.

3. If you used nails, then their hats need to be rubbed.

And if these are self-tapping screws, then you can simply put decorative plugs on them. It is enough to screw 6-8 self-tapping screws on each side of the trim.

There are times when the width of the platband is too large, because of which it cannot be installed to a wall perpendicular to it. Then you just need to reduce the width of the casing by cutting it. You should end up with a platband that fits right butt against the wall.

If the platbands do not fit well in the corners, then such angles can be adjusted with sandpaper, but it is better to use a belt grinder.

We also consider the case when the walls in the room are not straight, and arranged in a trapezoid shape. This usually happens in the toilets and bathrooms of the old "Khrushchev". In such cases, it makes no sense to cut the architraves at an angle of 45 °, because they will not converge. Therefore, you can take our advice and cut the platbands as in the photo.

However, such methods of installing platbands can be applied if the thickness of the box matches the thickness of the wall. And if the wall thickness is greater, then apply the installation additional allowances.

Installation of extensions

So, in order to prepare the extensions and make the installation, you first need cut rebounds according to your size. It can be done with your own hands from a flat board.

Perfect for wet and thick walls waterproof plywood(BS), which can be additionally pasted over with a decorative film. But it is often easier and cheaper to put ready-made extensions from MDF with decorative design.

Let's consider one more nuance: if the design of the interior door has a significant skew, then the installation of extensions is highly discouraged.

Skews are evidence that the door frame has been installed not properly, and if rebounds are still adjusted to such an incorrect design, then later they will split and warp.

Maybe, walls in a room with a slight slope. If we are talking about small irregularities (about 5 mm), then this can be corrected with a layer of plaster. With a much greater curvature of the walls, there will be no choice - you will have to file rebounds under the walls.

Foaming

After installing the extensions, and before applying the plaster gaps must be filled with mounting foam.

As you know, the foam tends to expand during solidification, creating a lot of pressure, and so that the design of interior doors does not lead, take advantage of our tips:

• Do not remove the wedges and leveling bars until the foam is completely dry.
• Apply foam in 3-4 layers: apply the next layer after the previous one has dried.
• Leave within 1 cm of unfilled foam between the rebounds and the wall. This space is better to plaster.

We hope that our advice will bring you benefit and joy from new doors.

How to install an interior door video

If you take the installation of interior doors under your control, you are guaranteed to avoid problems during their operation. The technique for installing door blocks is very simple, but compliance with the installation rules remains the main guarantee of a good result. Our guide will explain the main points in more detail.

Placement and preparation of openings

The doors of living rooms should open inside these rooms so that people passing along the corridor do not stumble on the end of a suddenly opened sash. There is not enough space in the bathroom and toilet to accept an open sash, in addition, opening to this side can block access to the bathroom if an unconscious person is lying on the floor.

The edge of the doorway should be at least 12 cm away from the corner. This is done for convenient pasting the corner with wallpaper, installing the trim without trimming, and next to it - the connecting corner of the plinth and its end cap. V load-bearing walls the minimum pillar of the wall is almost always present, in the partitions the opening will have to be expanded and the door removed from the corner with a distance bar.

There are three standard web widths: 600, 700 and 800 mm, the width of the opening should be 100 mm larger than the web. Two 25 mm standoffs fit into this stock, the gaps between them and the canvas, and two 20 mm gaps to form a foam joint. The standard door height is 200 cm, for an opening this value is taken 60 mm more.

Assembly of the door block

Modern door frames are assembled from wooden or standing MDF profiles. They are calibrated in size and cross-section, so only precise trimming is needed for a correct connection. The side pillars are cut 15-17 mm longer than the door leaf. The upper crossbar is installed on the racks, and not between them, its length is 20 mm less than the width of the opening. The protruding edges of the plank can be cut off completely after assembling the block, or the edges can be removed only on the wrong side, where there is a groove for installing extensions.

It is convenient to assemble the details of the box by first laying them out on the floor in the shape of the letter “P”, orienting the porch upwards. A door is inserted into the box, then with the help of spacer plates or folded paper, gaps of 2 mm are set on the side of the hinges and on top and 3 mm on the side of the handle.

The parts are fastened with anodized self-tapping screws 60-80 mm long with preliminary drilling of the edges of the horizontal crossbar, or on furniture confirmations. There must be at least two attachment points so that the block racks do not rotate. In addition, it is necessary to install a crossbar at the bottom of the door: a regular bar is attached to the ends of the front ones from the side of the trim, which will hide traces of nails.

Insertion of hinges and fittings

This is the most difficult stage of installation, requiring manual woodworking skills. It is recommended to install the hinges before starting the installation of the block in the opening, and it is better to embed the rest of the fittings into the already hung door.

Loops come in two types: double-sided and single-sided tie-in, the difference comes from the name. The tie-in is made exactly under the hinge plate to a depth of 2.5 mm; in the case of a one-sided tie-in, it is made into the box, but not into the door. The location of the loops is 25 cm from the bottom and top of the canvas.

First, marking is done: combined risks are applied on the door and the box in which it is inserted, indicating the edges of the loop. The door is removed from the opening and the hinges are fastened according to the marks so far without a tie-in, they are simply screwed on with two screws. The metal plate must be circled with a sharp mounting knife so that the cutting of the veneer or the laminating layer is perfectly even. The depth of the incision should be at least 4-5 mm.

The sample can be made with a finger cutter, released by 2.5 mm. You can also do it manually, this will require a well-sharpened chisel with a width of about 15-20 mm. First you need to apply a series of notches across the sample with an interval slightly less than the width of the chisel, a depth of about 3 mm. Then, with a chisel, each resulting plate is hooked and torn off.

Marriage in work occurs for the most part due to the fact that, with excessive force, the tool breaks off and damages the front layer. Therefore, it is not necessary to press hard on the chisel; frequent and weak blows with a hammer are enough.

The chisel should be directed only along the door or the stand, pressing it against the tree with the beveled edge of the blade. It is very important to carefully clean the corners and remove the material with thin chips, periodically trying on the loop in place.

To insert fittings, you need to mark a rectangle on the end of the door, equal in size to the hidden part of the lock or handle. According to the width of the recess, the diameter of the pen drill is selected and the drilling sites are marked with an overlap of 1.5-2 mm. Before sampling, you must first go through the marks with a 4 mm drill. The finished niche is cleaned with a chisel with periodic fitting of the hidden part. As a result, the front plate should lie on the end of the door without gaps.

Further operations are the same as when installing the hinges: temporary fastening with screws, trimming the veneer with a sharp knife and selecting a recess for the plate with a chisel or cutter. Before the final fixing of the lock itself, it is necessary to transfer the marking of holes for the square rod of the handles to both sides of the door and drill the door through it with a drill of about 10 mm.

Twist the decorative washers and place the handles on the square, then secure them with 3-4 small screws. On the inside of the handles, you need to find and tighten a small hidden screw to fix the square.

Door installation

The installation itself is extremely simple. If the door has four porch, first cut out in the floor flooring exactly the width of the threshold. The box is installed in place and aligned vertically in two planes.

With mounting wedges, you must first spread the box from the top of the opening, and then on the sides. The door with spacers is located inside the block. For temporary fixation and careful alignment, the door frame is fixed with self-tapping screws on plastic plugs, two attachment points on each side. By screwing and unscrewing the screws and tightening the wedges, it is necessary to align the pillars and ensure that the door remains motionless in any position.

After that, the gap between the block and the opening is well moistened with a hand sprayer and filled with polyurethane foam for 2/3 of the joint thickness. During the polymerization of the foam (35-40 minutes) the door must remain closed with spacer plates lined.

Door soundproofing, installation of extensions and platbands

For a tighter fit on the edge of the feigned groove, you can glue a soft door seal. From the side of the hinges, it is attached to the wide end of the vestibule, and from the other three sides - to the narrow one. Additionally, sound insulation can be improved by installing a special sealing brush on the bottom end of the canvas.

Platbands, depending on whether they have a semicircular or rectangular profile, are installed, respectively, with an oblique and straight undercut. A 45° cut is made in a miter box with a fine-toothed hacksaw or lever-operated circular saw.

To install extensions, you must first plaster and prime the slopes so that the gap between the plaster and the panel is no more than 2-3 mm. MDF planks are cut lengthwise and across according to the size of the slope, inserted with a cut edge into the groove of the doorway and glued to the plaster with liquid nails. The top panel is installed first, then the side panels. After the glue has dried, the platbands are installed.

Have you bought a new home, or is it time to renovate your old one? Restoration, replacement or installation of a new interior door is indispensable. Today we are not talking about restoration.

Let's talk about installation new door. You can entrust such work to specialists, but we ourselves are with hands. Installing an interior door with your own hands will save the budget, give pleasure if you are a real man.

The construction market is full of offers. Interior doors are no exception. Choose whatever you like, affordable for your pocket. But don't rush to buy. It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the location of rooms in a house or apartment, the size of the doorway, the specifics of opening doors. Interior doors are:

• hinged one-door or two-door;
• sliding compartments (built into the wall or over the wall);
• harmonic;
• secret.

Each has distinctive features, requires an individual approach to installation, fittings. Handles can be installed on the surface of the leaf or recessed inside; swivel or push.

Loops for different kind their interior doors. Most often they consist of two parts: one is attached to the canvas, the other to the vertical rack of the box.

Hinged two-door design of a door.

For compartment interior doors, a system of upper / lower guides is provided. Knowing the features of installing different types of doors, doing everything yourself is not difficult. And now about everything in order.

Determine the size of the future door structure

We take a single-leaf swing door as a basis. Having understood the calculations of the overall dimensions of this design, it will not be difficult to deal with other options.

1. We measure the interior opening in height and width. Size take clean space without old door, if any. There should be no inaccuracies in the calculations - this will affect the quality of installing interior doors with your own hands.
2. If there is an old structure, we dismantle it, level the surface.
3. The width of standard interior doors varies from 700 mm. They may be smaller, but this is only for some utility rooms. Because it will be difficult to pass through such an opening, and even more so to bring in dimensional objects.
4. For a door with a width of 700 mm, the opening must be at least 790 mm. It is necessary to take into account the thickness of the frame, the door leaf and the technological gap for comfortable opening of the sash. Usually, 30 mm are left for a gap on the right and left sides inside the box.
5. Let's move on to height. The standard door leaf corresponds to a height of 2000 mm. Larger sizes are made to order. We add to the height of the door leaf the thickness of the upper bar of the box, the gaps for opening.
6. The design can be with or without a threshold. This must be taken into account when buying a door. On average, the height of interior openings is 2100 mm. If the dimensions of the space are slightly larger than the standard, do not worry. During the installation process, the remaining space will be hidden by foam, cashing around the perimeter.

Dimensions standard door and boxes.

What to buy at a hardware store to install interior doors with your own hands?

• door leaf of the required size, type - 1 pc.;
• timber for the box, if not included with the door - 3-4 pcs. (depending on the type of box);
• extras (if necessary);
• cashing out, if not included;
• hinges of a certain type (check with the seller in the store or read the information on choosing door hinges);
• door knob;
• self-tapping screws for the box;
• polyurethane foam;
• masking tape;
• tools, if not household, or rent it.

What tools do you need to prepare:

• drill;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• hacksaw or miter saw;
• level;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• miter box;
• mallet;
• foam gun;
• wedges and bars for spacers.

All details are bought, prepared. We turn to the installation of an interior door with our own hands.

Do-it-yourself door leaf and box preparation

Each master has his own methods for installing interior doors. You can mount the box and the canvas separately in the opening, you can assemble it into a single set and install it in the opening. The main thing is that the result is positive. Step-by-step instructions will help you avoid mistakes.

Do-it-yourself box assembly

Consider the technology when the box is assembled on the floor, then installed in the opening.

Initially, it is important to properly install the door frame.

Knowing the size of the product, we cut off the desired length of the vertical slats. To do this, take a tape measure, make a measurement, mark a mark with a pencil, saw off the excess length.

There are two ways to cut a beam:

• at an angle of 45 degrees;
• at an angle of 90 degrees.

The assembly of the first option is not available to every craftsman. You need clarity of action, a firm hand and a miter saw. At an angle of 45, we cut out not only vertical strips, but also horizontal ones. We connect the elements with self-tapping screws, twisting them deeper.

The second option is no problem. We saw off the desired length, connect the parts at an angle of 90 degrees. We make a small notch on the top of the vertical bar for the upper vertical part of the box, a kind of groove. It will help to more tightly connect the parts from the timber with self-tapping screws.

Before tightening the fasteners, make holes with a drill to avoid cracking the slats and damaging the workpiece.

To understand the technique of collecting the box with your own hands will help step by step video instructions in this article.

We considered the option when the assembly of the interior box comes from special blanks for the door structure. They are recommended when an additional rigid frame is needed in the opening. For example, in wooden house a box made of timber will play the role of a pigtail, will not allow, when shrinking a log house, to lead a doorway, to break the geometry of the door. The thickness and width of the timber is selected according to the type of door: solid, MDF, panel or otherwise. Everyone has their own thickness. Choose your favorite option for collecting the support frame and proceed to the collection of the canvas.

Assembling the canvas with your own hands, installing accessories

Assembling the canvas involves fixing the necessary fasteners to the door leaf. Sometimes manufacturers make notches at the intended attachment points for hinges or handles. These are more exclusive and expensive models.

All fittings to the door leaf must be installed before the door canopy into the frame.

Often the sash of the interior design is universal, i.e. the product can be installed in the interior opening both on the right and on the left. Our instruction hint will help to understand this issue.

Advice: technical fire safety any door should open outward, in the direction of travel. Neither the handle nor the canvas should touch other objects so that there is no rebound from the blow back. It can be traumatic.

Try to ensure that adjacent doors do not interfere with each other when opening. Sometimes the corridor space is narrow, but separates several rooms that need to be isolated with interior doors. If choose wrong option opening, then there will be a problem of hitting one door against another or one of the doors may block the other. Architects do not always think through this moment, especially in small apartments. Therefore, provide for all the nuances so that the use of a useful piece of furniture is not deplorable. A sliding door would be a good option.

Do-it-yourself loop installation

We figured out the direction of opening. Let's move on to installing the hinges of interior doors with your own hands.

We will mark the canvas and the vertical bar of the supporting frame. According to the standard, two loops are fixed. If the door is heavy, such as an array, a third hinge will be required.

The hinges are attached to the door exactly according to the given scheme, observing the dimensions.

From above and below we retreat from the edge of 150-200 mm, we make the first notch. This is one edge of the loop bar. We outline the second mark - this is the other edge of the bar. We find out the size by measuring the length of the loop with a tape measure or applying the loop itself to the first mark. We do the same actions on the vertical rack of the box.

Modern hinges may be tightly adjacent to the ends of the product or require additional penetration into the edge. To do this, we take a chisel, select the required gap from the canvas and timber. Thus, there were seats for the upper and lower loops.

We fix the fittings with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them with a drill.

Some experts recommend attaching the hinge to the canvas and box prior to installation. Other masters advise to put the box, and then screw the canvas together with the hinges in a standing position. What to choose is up to you. It is easier to immediately fix the hinges on the box and the sash in the supine position, and then install it in the opening. But it may be difficult to adjust if the adjoining door is not symmetrical around the perimeter of the opening.

Installing and assembling the handle

Let's move on to the handles. Step-by-step instructions for installing handles will help you do everything right. Despite the fact that door handles are represented by a wide range, their installation is carried out according to a certain algorithm. Latch handles are often used, which contain a locking element in the design that allows you to close the door with a key or latch:

• we measure the height where we fix the handle and the lock, according to the standard 90–120 mm from the floor;
• at the end of the canvas, a hole for the lock plate is drilled with a large drill;
• insert the bar into the hole, outline its contours at the end of the canvas;
• we take out the lock and make a recess with a chisel so that the lock bar is flush with the surface;
• on the surface of the product we mark the place where the handle is attached, applying the locking bar from the outside;
• drill a hole for the handle;
• we insert the lock back into the end and fix it with a handle;
• We install the reciprocal bar on the box after hanging the door in the opening.

To figure out how to fix the handles on the door with your own hands, you can watch the video instruction:

Installing a door in an interior opening

We proceed to the next stage - installation of the product in the interior opening. Let's make a small digression. If the door is installed in a new apartment, then it is enough to check the evenness of the opening and correct the irregularities with the help of plaster and a trowel. Sand the surface, prime and proceed with installation door structure. But if the repair is carried out in an old room, then it is necessary to dismantle the old door or interior box. It takes time, effort and skill.

The entire space around the box is foamed with mounting foam.

Make dismantling in advance, so as not to spray, not to increase the installation time of the door. We do it with our own hands and for the first time. Finishing work of walls, floors must be completed before the installation of doors, so that later there are no incidents of inconsistency. This requirement applies both to the installation of a U-shaped box, and around the entire perimeter with a threshold. It is difficult to drive linoleum or tile under the door and maintain the possibility of proper opening.

Correct installation of the door with your own hands requires the presence of an assistant. There are two options for mounting in the opening, but in each of them it is difficult for one to do all the manipulations.

First way. Installing the box separately from the web

After checking the evenness of the frame with a level, we install it in the prepared interior opening. Accompanying each action with a level and a plumb line, we set the frame evenly. It should not have even the slightest bias. This will affect the opening of the sash.

Installing the door frame separately from the leaf.

We install wedges or bars to pre-fix the box. Do not forget about the gap between the jamb and the slats.

We drill holes in the vertical bar, twist the screws into the holes. They have to pull the box to the jamb. If the house is wooden, a long self-tapping screw will easily go into the log. If the house is made of bricks, it is required to make a preliminary hole in the opening and insert a plastic dowel under the self-tapping screw. Fasteners must be recessed into the bar so as not to interfere with the opening / closing of the sash.

Check the level of all surfaces.

There are situations when the box cannot completely close the jamb. Help to hide the opening decorative dobor. They are attached directly to the jamb or attached to the box before installation. Choose the correct size of the extensions or cut them in place. Fix such extensions in the groove with foam.

The box is fixed. Let's move on to hanging the canvas. If the hinges are collapsible, then hanging the sash is not very difficult. The hinges are installed symmetrically on both parts of the product. We put one part of the loop into another and check all the gaps. They should be the same around the perimeter.

The second way. Installing the complete product

Before installing the kit in the interior opening, we lay out cardboard gaskets between the canvas and the box. This will keep the gaps and symmetry of the kit.

• Carefully lift the product, install it in the opening.
• Align around the perimeter with a level and a plumb line.
• We install wedges or bars around the perimeter to maintain gaps and space for foam.
• We turn to foaming the space around the perimeter. This process is similar in both the first and second installation methods.
• Before applying the foam in the gaps, cover the front sides of the box with masking tape to avoid foam getting on the product. It is quite difficult to clean it up. Use a foam gun. The gun will reduce material consumption and the work will be done neatly. Do not hurry. Apply layer after layer from top to bottom.

After foaming the space, it is advisable to leave the door closed for a day. At rest, deformations will not occur, and the cardboard laid between the box and the canvas will retain gaps and will not allow the beam to bend when the foam expands.

The door leaf can be installed separately from the frame or together.

After drying, cut off the excess mounting foam, remove the masking tape.

It remains to fix the striker of the lock on the end of the box and install decorative details - platbands.

do-it-yourself interior door installation - the final process

With the door closed, we apply a notch to the attachment point of the lock striker. We select a hole for the bar with a chisel. It should be recessed into the timber flush. Fasten with screws. We check the operation of the lock and handle.

Finishing works are finishing.

The final step is to install trim on the sides and top of the interior door. The platbands can be connected to each other at an angle of 45 degrees or at a right angle. It depends on the product design. Sometimes parts are sold finished size or they need to be filed. Carry out washing down with a zasovochny saw. The elements are connected in place, fixed with liquid nails or nails without hats, hammering into the drilled holes.

Self-assembly and installation of door interior blocks does not require high qualifications or special skills from the performer. Consistent connection of parts in accordance with the instructions and accurate installation in doorway will allow you to get a satisfactory result even by the efforts of a beginner. You just need to stock up on the necessary tools and patience.

Ways to install interior doors

You can mount a door between rooms different ways. It all depends on what its design is and what material the door block is made of. A significant role in the choice of one or another installation method is played by its intended purpose. If this is, for example, a door to the living room, then special strength is not required. But if the door separates the passage corridor from the server room, in which high-sensitivity devices or units with voltages over 1000 volts are located, then in the interests of safety it is advisable to install a door of increased strength. Accordingly, the installation method in the second case must meet completely different requirements.

There are the following ways of fastening the door block in the opening.

1. Fixing the frame on the mounting foam. Easiest but not the most reliable way installation. Suitable for lightweight MDF or MDF doors of small size.

   Mounting foam, when dried, firmly glues the door frame to the wall opening

2. Installing the door frame on the brackets. As a rule, everything plastic doors(as well as windows) are mounted in this way. Metal plates are used as brackets, which are used for suspended ceilings. The thickness of the direct suspension is from 1 to 1.5 mm, so the mount is quite rigid. The main disadvantage of this method is the need to plaster the bracket attachment point. The method is applicable in the case when the finishing of the walls has not yet been done.

   The ceiling hanger is used as a bracket for fixing the door frame

3. Concealed installation, i.e. fixing the door frame under the hinges in three places. The rest of the space is filled with foam. The result is a fairly strong and invisible to prying eyes mount. Frame suspension points are arranged in the following order:
   • two - under the hinges;
   • one - under the reciprocal lock bar.
4. through method. Installation is carried out using screws or anchors. Holes are drilled in the frame through which it is attached to the wall. Typically, two to four fixation points are used on each upright and one to two on the vertical bars. To prevent the holes from being visible, they are covered with plastic plugs from above. This fastening is considered the most durable and is used for heavy doors, including metal and armored ones.

   With direct fixation, the frame is rigidly attached to the wall and can hold a heavy and powerful door.

5. Hinged door frame. A new method developed relatively recently. Its essence lies in the fact that the box is hung on special loops. Anchors are installed at the ends of the opening, and metal loops are screwed onto the frame. During installation, the loop is put on the head of the adjustable bolt. The method is good in cases where the doorway is uneven. Installation is very fast.

   A set of simple fasteners allows you to install the door in minutes

In practice, several methods are often used simultaneously, as well as combining and combining fixation methods depending on the specific situation. In any case, mounting foam is almost always used today; it serves not only as fasteners, but also as a heat-insulating and sound-absorbing layer.

Video: quick door installation technology in 15 minutes

What you need to install an interior door

As with any other installation work, for the successful installation of interior doors, you need special tools and Consumables.

Required Tools

Getting Started self-assembly interior doors, you must arm yourself with the appropriate tool:

• electric drill with a set of nozzles (for screws with different slots);
• a set of drills for wood (the larger the range, the better);

  A distinctive feature of a wood drill is a sharp tip

• perforator (in the event that fastening is carried out on anchor devices);
• electric or manual furniture saw (ideal - end circular saw);

  With the help of a miter saw, workpieces for the door frame, platbands and additional elements are quickly and efficiently prepared

• drill bits or drills for concrete (diameter 4 and 6 mm);
• miter box, a set of chisels of different widths;

  The miter box is designed for cutting parts at different angles.

• measuring tool - hydraulic level, tape measure, square, etc.;

  The accuracy of measurements during the assembly of interior doors is reflected in the quality of their further operation.

• knife, pencil, marker.

You will also need consumables:

What cutters are needed to install interior doors

If there is an opportunity to buy or rent a router, you should definitely use it. Via manual router selection for hinges and locks is greatly accelerated. There is no need for chisels, the quality of the grooves improves. In order to optimize the process, it is desirable to use small diameter cutters. Thanks to this, you will have to cut less wood in the corners by hand. For example, for door hinges, a cutter with a diameter of 9.5 mm is ideal. To select the lock, a groove cutter of the appropriate length is used (to the depth of insertion of the locking device).

The main characteristics of a groove cutter include the height and diameter of its working part, as well as the size of the shank for clamping the router

The average installation time for one door for a professional carpenter is 2 hours. If the hinges and the lock are cut in manually without using a router, this time increases to 3 hours.

Box saw

A few words about the electric saw. When installing one door, of course, it makes no sense to buy a "circular", especially an end one. You can use an ordinary hand saw with a small (furniture) tooth.

With a saw with fine, unset teeth, you can make even and clean cuts of parts.

But if a whole apartment is being built or reconstructed, in which from 5 to 15 doors are installed, you can at least think about renting a tool. The quality and speed of assembly using a miter saw increases several times. Much also depends on the type of doors and platbands. Some have to be customized the right dimensions, others require little to no cutting.

Preparing an opening for installing an interior door

The main task in preparing the doorway is:

• removal of excess materials from the end of the wall (remnants of mounting foam, plaster, broken bricks, etc.);
• creating the correct geometric shape of the hole in the wall (a rectangle, not a trapezoid).

If the brickwork is in poor condition, it must be plastered with cement mortar.

In new buildings, doorways should theoretically have dimensions close to standard. However, in practice this does not always happen. In a house or apartment where reconstruction is taking place, old doors must be dismantled before installing new ones. If at the same time the opening was damaged, it must be restored - leveled and plastered.

The following geometric parameters of the opening affect the quality of the installation of the door block.

Height

The height is measured from the “clean floor”, that is, from the level of the finishing floor covering - laminate, tile, linoleum, etc. It is necessary that the height be the same over the entire plane. A similar requirement is made for the floor - there should not be bumps and pits on it, especially if the door being installed does not contain a threshold in its design - all defects will remain in sight. The height of the opening should be 6-7 cm more than the vertical size of the door itself.

The dimensions of the doorway must take into account the technological tolerances for the installation of the frame and the necessary mounting clearances

Width

Similar requirements are imposed on the width of the opening - it must be the same over the entire height of the door. Vertical planes should be at right angles to the floor and parallel. If this is not the case, the sidewalls must be leveled. The width of the doorway is determined based on the width of the door leaf - 10 cm are added to it (5 cm on each side).

Thickness (or depth) of the opening

An important condition that must be observed when preparing the opening is that the end should have a rectangular shape. In the lower part, at the intersection with the floor, a right angle (90 °) should form. If the thickness of the walls is not the same, gaps will form under the platbands, which, in fact, is a marriage.

Video: preparing a doorway before installing an interior door

Do-it-yourself interior door installation: step by step instructions

Since the vast majority of doors in the surrounding life have a hinged design, we will consider the installation procedure using the example of a typical interior door.

The most common type of interior doors has a hinged opening mechanism.

Rules and procedure for installing interior doors

Installation of a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

1. Development of a scheme for fastening the door frame in the opening. At this stage, it is necessary to clearly imagine (or better, sketch) the method of attachment. In our case, this will be fixing with self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to decide on the side in which the door will open. If there is no pre-conceived plan, the following hint will help solve the problem: in small rooms, such as a toilet, pantry and bath, it is customary to open the door inside. Exit to the corridors from large rooms is best done outside.

   The most common way to fix the frame in doorway is installation by means of anchor fastening on polyurethane foam

2. Door frame installation. It is advisable to place the door that arrived from the store on a flat horizontal surface - a table, chairs or on the floor and unpack it. Assembly is carried out using self-tapping wood screws with a thickness of 3.5 mm. Before screwing the self-tapping screw, it is necessary to drill a hole that will not allow the wood blank (Fibreboard, MDF, Chipboard) to split. A drill with a smaller diameter is used, in particular 3 mm. For the same reasons, it is not necessary to screw the screws close to the edge of the parts - the standard distance is at least 5 diameters, i.e. 1.5 cm. For reliable fastening of the horizontal strips of the door frame, four screws are enough - two on each side.

   When assembling the frame on the floor, put cardboard from the package under the box

3. Cutting racks. Usually the door frame is sold with a height margin of 5–7 cm. After fixing the side parts, it is necessary to measure the exact size and cut off the excess. To do this, the height of the opening is measured and transferred to the frame. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that a technological gap of 2–2.5 cm should remain between the box and the wall. Such a backlash is needed so that the frame can be aligned horizontally and vertically inside the opening.

   Adjustment of the length of the side posts is carried out after measuring the height of the opening

4. Installation of the frame in the doorway. If up to this point the door leaf was inside the box, then to install the frame into the wall, the sash must be removed. The frame is installed in the allotted place and leveled with a level. Primary fixation is carried out with plastic or wooden wedges. It is very convenient to use a set of thin wedges, with their help you can accurately align the box in all axes. It should be remembered that the racks of the box must be vertical in two perpendicular planes - from the side of the canvas and from the side of the wall. The correct operation of the door block is 80% dependent on right position door frame. In a number of models of interior doors there is a special decorative strip, which is detached and mounting holes are drilled under it. At the end of the installation, the bar is put in place. To fix the frame with screws, you need to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 4 mm on each rack and transfer them to the wall with a pencil or marker. After that, the box is removed and nests for dowels are drilled in the wall according to the markings. Do not forget that wood drills do not work in concrete. brickwork drilled with a perforator with a drill for stone. Drill diameter - 6 mm, according to the size of the plastic sleeve. When the holes are ready and the dowels are inserted into the wall, the frame returns to its original position and is pre-fixed (“baited”, as the masters say). Before the final tightening of the screws, the position of the vertical and horizontal parts of the box is once again controlled. The tightening is carried out in a circle, first the screws are twisted halfway, then with maximum effort. In order not to overtighten the fasteners, during tightening, the verticality of the racks is checked with a long two-meter level or rule.

   The use of a construction laser level increases the accuracy of the installation of the door frame

5. Installing the door leaf on the hinges. Since we are considering a light interior door made of MDF or fiberboard, one person can hang the sash on the hinges. It is enough to lift the door above the canopies and carefully put it on the hinge axis. After that, the door leaf must be closed and checked for the correct location. If the door is mounted in compliance with all technological standards (gaps of 3–4 mm on each side), it will move easily inside the frame and without human effort. In the open state, the sash will not spontaneously slam shut, and in the closed state it will open. If the purchased door does not have grooves for hinges, you need to make them yourself. To do this, a cutter is inserted into the tool, the depth of immersion in the wood is adjusted, and a groove is selected according to a pre-marked size with a translational movement. The accepted location of the hinges is 20–25 cm from the upper and lower edges of the sash.

   The hinges are placed above and below at the same distance from the edges of the door leaf

6. Filling joints with polyurethane foam. This is a crucial moment, since such important door parameters as sound insulation and heat resistance depend on the filling density. It is better to use mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion. To accelerate the setting and hardening of the polyurethane, the walls and the door frame are moistened with water (sprayed from a spray bottle). Filling is carried out sequentially, from the bottom up, so that there are no voids left, but at the same time, foam flakes do not fall to the floor. During the operation, it is advisable to cover the door with foil, as prolonged contact with polyurethane may cause stains on the laminated surface. As the foam dries, it increases in volume, so the seams are initially filled by 30-40%. After complete solidification (after 24 hours at an air temperature of 20 ° C), the excess is cut off with a sharp knife. During foaming and drying, it is not recommended to open the door leaf. It is advisable to put pieces of packaging cardboard into the gaps (along the perimeter). This will prevent deformation and deflection of the frame in case there is too much foam.

   It is better to fill the mounting gaps with foam from the bottom up, carefully processing the voids

7. Doorway trim. Upon completion of the installation of the door, it is necessary to put the opening in order. To do this, slopes or platbands are installed in it. For interior doors, slope finishing is rarely done (although this is also practiced, depending on the installation location and the function of the door). The most common type of decoration is platbands and dobors. If the size of the wall is small and the width of the door frame coincides with it, platbands are installed on both sides and this finishes the opening. If the width of the box is not enough to close the wall completely, use extensions. With their help, the plane of the frame expands, and the platbands are no longer attached to the box, but to the extensions. It is interesting that designers sometimes consciously choose the colors of the extensions that contrast with the color of the door. Such solutions are original and emphasize the door as an element of the interior. Platbands are installed in several ways, depending on their design:
   • groove connection;
   • gluing to the wall;
   • hidden nails.
8. Hardware installation. The door handle and lock are usually included with the door. Or at least mounting holes are prepared in the web. If they are not there, you need to mark the sash and use a milling cutter and an electric drill to cut holes of the required size (for pre-purchased components). This should be guided by the instructions for installing the lock and door handle that are included with the products. The approximate installation height of the door lock is 90–110 cm from the floor. The handle is mounted at the same height, retreating 10-15 cm from the edge of the door leaf.

   The method of installing a door lock depends on its design, and it is usually located at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor

The type of connection of vertical platbands with horizontal ones can be different - rectangular or diagonal. From the point of view of installation, a rectangular connection is considered simpler. For a diagonal joint, it is important to make an accurate cutting of the workpieces at an angle of 45 °. To do this, the craftsmen use a circular saw. But with small volumes, a carpenter's miter box can also be used.

The diagonal connection of the architraves requires a perfectly even cut at an angle of 45 degrees, which is carried out using a miter box or a circular saw

Many modern models of interior doors contain a rubber seal in their design. Its installation is most often carried out by gluing. The protective film is removed from the inside, and the sealant is carefully glued around the perimeter of the entire door leaf.

Video: how to install an interior door

Installation of double doors

Bivalves door blocks are a popular interior decoration. They fit especially harmoniously into wide doorways, emphasizing the spaciousness in the room. Doors with two leaves are:

When assembling double-leaf swing doors, the algorithm remains the same as for a single-leaf door. But there is one caveat associated with the door suspension. The first to be installed on the hinges is a sash with a latch, which cuts ahead of time into the upper part of the canvas. After installing the sash on the hinges, it is fixed with a latch and proceed to the installation of the other half of the door. Thus, the alignment of the canvases with respect to the frame and with each other is achieved. The gaps adopted for a single-leaf door are also relevant for a double-leaf version.

The latch holds the door leaf in a fixed position

The sliding design of double doors is different in that it does not have a frame in the usual sense. The door leaves are supported by a suspension profile equipped with a rocker mechanism. Naturally, the installation of such a door differs from the assembly of swing structures. Installation is carried out on straight walls with a sufficient margin of space (you need space for opening doors).

Around sliding door it is necessary to provide a margin of free space for the racks leaving when opening

Installation begins with the assembly and fastening of guide profiles (which can be both above and below the doorway). Further, the procedure must be carried out in this sequence.

1. Fastening on canvases of brackets with fittings (carriages and movable rollers).

   The scheme of fastening the door leaf to the rocker mechanism, indicating the weight of the door leaf, is attached to each product.

2. Installation of shutters on the suspension mechanism.
3. Fastening of stoppers (rubber limiters for opening the valves).

   With the help of the limiter, the free play of the door leaf is adjusted to protect it from impacts on nearby objects and surfaces

4. Installation of dobors and platbands on the doorway.
5. Installation of additional door fittings (brushes, seals, grips).

On the preparatory stage marking and leveling of the wall plane is carried out. This is important because the door leaves are constantly moving along the walls.

The main document that you need to read when installing sliding doors is the assembly instructions from the manufacturer. It reflects the technical requirements for installation and the basic rules of operation.

Video: installing a double swing door

It is customary to mount interior doors after indoors finishing works. In particular, it is not recommended to prime, plaster or paint the walls after the doors have been installed. high humidity negatively affects the wood-shaving material - deformation and bulges are possible structural elements door block.

Installation of interior sliding doors

The sliding door is one of the options for sliding interior doors. Unlike the double-leaf design, the interior compartment door can be single-leaf, three-leaf and even four-leaf. Moreover, one or two canvases can move at the same time. Installation is carried out in the same manner as for a sliding door in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Compartment doors save space in small spaces

Video: installation of interior compartment doors

Installation of sliding door structures

A characteristic feature of sliding interior doors is the movement of the door leaf along support profile located on the floor. Installation is carried out after finishing the floor. The guide profile is installed in parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles or other floor covering. Often the door leaf is hidden in the wall cavity, specially prepared for this.

Before installing the sliding door, a false wall is built to hide the sash

There are options for making a false wall or a drywall box-pencil case for sliding interior doors. But in any case, the suspension mechanism remains identical to that of all other types of sliding doors.

Video: installation of sliding interior doors

Installation of sliding interior doors

Sliding interior doors save space in small spaces. But for their installation, certain conditions are needed, the main of which is the availability of space for moving the door leaf. Sliding doors can be single leaf or double leaf. The supporting rocker mechanism is located, as a rule, from above, and a restrictive profile is mounted from below, which prevents the canvas from swinging during movement.

Used in planning various options the location of the canvas in the doorway

Installation of glass doors

Glass doors - very original solution for interior decoration. Like doors made of other materials, they are hinged and sliding. In private housing construction, the swing type is usually used. glass doors. In general, the principle and procedure for their installation does not differ from the standard one, however, there are several features.

1. The glass door leaf cannot be adjusted in size, it cannot be sawn or cut. Therefore, in order to avoid errors, the doors are ordered after the finishing of the walls and the doorway (when the dimensions have not changed).
2. Door installation is not done alone. The weight of a glass sheet is usually from 50 to 70 kg, it is difficult and dangerous for one person to manipulate such a sash.
3. The glass interior door is mounted on a wooden or metal box.
4. The durability of glass doors is only limited by the durability of the hinges. Pendulum loops are considered the most reliable.

To assemble the suspension of glass doors, mounting holes are cut in their leaf at the factory

Holes for the installation of hinges are cut at the glass door manufacturer. You need to drill holes for the lock and handle yourself, using a glass drill of the desired diameter.

Holes in the glass are drilled with special drills at low speeds.

The advantage of glass interior doors is an almost unlimited service life. Their appearance not subject to mechanical or chemical attack, the strength of the glass block is comparable to the strength of metal. The only thing to watch out for is the safety of the hinges and fittings. Timely lubrication and removal of contamination are two necessary conditions for long-term operation of glass interior doors.

Video: installing glass interior doors

Installation of fittings on interior doors

Installation of fittings, perhaps, is the most crucial moment in the installation of interior doors. It is during this part of the work that errors occur, leading to quick breakdowns. Therefore, starting self-assembly, you need to tune in to the painstaking "jewelry" work. Mistakes are too expensive.

So, accessories include:

All fittings require precise cutting into the plane of the door leaf or frame, and this presents a certain difficulty for beginner carpenters. The permissible error must not be exceeded by more than 1 mm. Otherwise, there are no firm guarantees for the stable operation of the mechanisms.

Sampling is done manually (chisels) or with the help of power tools. At this stage of work, a manual electric mill is used.

Thanks to its high speed operation, the router performs neat and clean cuts on wood

Work sequence

Installation of fittings on a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

1. Markup. Before you start cutting a hole, you need to determine the location of the hinges. As noted above, in order to evenly distribute the weight of the leaf, the hinges are located symmetrically 20–25 cm from the edges of the door leaf. The contours of the loop are drawn with a sharp pencil and circled around the perimeter with a knife, scalpel or semicircular chisel.

   It is desirable to outline the contour of the loop with a sharp pencil, a thin awl or a scalpel

2. The device of a seat for loops. With a chisel, wood is gradually selected from the intended contour. It is necessary to control the depth of the groove within 2–3 mm. The accuracy of the cut is checked with a hinge - when it is applied to the specified place, the front part of the fittings must coincide with the surface of the end of the door. When sampling for hinges in MDF doors manual method ineffective, it is advisable to use a milling cutter with a cutter of small diameter.
   

   The hinges must be flush with the surface of the canvas

3. Preparation of recesses in the frame. Having made the grooves and installed the hinges in them, they proceed to the manufacture of similar seats in the door frame.
4. Installing interior door handle. The operation consists in cutting out a seat for a lock and a hole for installing a rotary handle. It is difficult to do without a milling cutter, especially for a person who does not have carpentry experience. Using a long cutter, a groove of a certain depth is selected for the lock. With a small cutter, cut out the pot for the lock plate and striker. To accurately determine the location of the lock tongue, it is lubricated dye(with nail polish, chalk, paint) and released onto the frame. In the indicated place, a hole in the reciprocal plate is installed.

   The production of grooves for the door lock is carried out using a milling cutter

5. Bolt installation. It is carried out depending on the design of the locking element. As a rule, the installation of a high-quality latch involves the selection of a masking groove. The device is applied to the edge of the door leaf, its shape is outlined and a groove is cut along it.

Video: inserting a lock into interior doors

How to check the correct installation of an interior door

Everyone who has to install interior doors for the first time asks questions: is the door mounted correctly and what needs to be done so that it lasts a long time and properly. They have an exhaustive answer, which consists of two points.

1. A sign of a correctly carried out installation is the same technological gaps around the perimeter of the entire web. This means that if the gap around the sash is the same size everywhere, the canvas is hung correctly.
2. The door must pass a small test. When opening (and closing) the canvas, no extraneous sounds, squeaks, rustles (rubbing of one surface against another) should be heard. At the same time, the sash moves easily, without applying any effort. If the hand stops, the canvas stops, it should not move on its own.

If these two conditions are met, the door is installed in accordance with technical and operational standards.

Often the installation of an interior door is preceded by dismantling. Disassembly is carried out in the reverse order of assembly.

1. Decor elements are detached - platbands and extensions. In this case, use a mount or a large screwdriver. decorative elements can be reused, so do not break them during dismantling. If these parts are kept intact, they can be painted, pasted over with a laminated film and used when installing a new door.

   Platbands are removed using a mount or an ax

2. Hardware is removed from the door leaf - locks and handles. Unscrewing the lock is carried out from the end of the door leaf. The rotary handle mount is located on one side of the door (at the bottom of the lever).
3. The door leaf is removed. To do this, the sash is opened at an angle of 90 o with respect to the frame and lifted by the lower edge using a crowbar, mount or other lever. After the canvas is removed from the hinges, the canopies can be detached and reused.

   To remove the canvas from the hinges, it is rotated 90 degrees and lifted using the lever

4. The door frame is removed. To disassemble the frame with the least effort, it is necessary to determine the places of its fixation to the wall. Sometimes it is difficult to do this in old doors, especially if cement mortar slopes are installed on the opening. Then the usual will come to the rescue electric jigsaw. If the frame is not going to be used in the future, it can be cut in cross section and separated from the wall piece by piece. This greatly speeds up the dismantling process. In the same way, the upper crossbar is also released.

   With the help of power tools, the dismantling of doors is accelerated several times

If there is no firm self-confidence, of course, it is better to turn to professional installers, because the correct assembly and installation is not the only, but a necessary condition for the long-term operation of interior doors. But if you have at least a little experience in carpentry, and the operations described in this article do not cause you to doubt the possibility of repeating them, feel free to proceed with installing the door yourself. You can save money and be absolutely sure of the quality of each action.

Interior doors sooner or later become unusable and have to be replaced. This procedure is not too complicated, so it is not necessary to use the services of hired workers. To cope on their own is quite within the power of someone who has even the slightest idea about the saw, self-tapping screws and the level. In this article, you will learn how to install an interior door with your own hands.

Types of interior doors

The construction market offers a huge number of interior doors that are made from various materials. The most common are: fiberboard, MDF and natural wood. I would like to consider the advantages and disadvantages of doors made of such materials in more detail.

fiberboard doors

The frame of such a door is made of wood, and the sheathing is made of fiberboard sheets.

The advantages include:

• low price;
• lightness of the material, which allows you to easily bring the door from the store home;
• ease of installation.

Such advantages increase the popularity of these doors among the population. Hardware stores have a fairly large selection of fiberboard doors, as they are in the greatest demand.

Of the shortcomings, it should be noted:

• Fiberboard material is not strong enough, so the doors can quickly become unusable;
• Poor resistance to moisture, therefore not suitable for installation in bathrooms.

MDF doors

Doors made of MDF material are the most acceptable for the population and meet the price-quality ratio. Compared to fiberboard, such doors have certain advantages, namely:

• high resistance to moisture;
• high level of sound insulation;
• high strength material.

Of the shortcomings, only a higher cost can be noted, compared with fiberboard doors. At the same time, the quality more than justifies the means.

natural wood

Such interior doors have always been and are held in high esteem. The material is durable enough to use. The cost of a door will directly depend on the type of wood from which it is made. Classic interior and the author's design are perfectly complemented with the help of such doors.

Step by step installation instructions

For an example of how to install an interior door in stages, we will take doors from fiberboard.

Step 1

Before starting work, prepare necessary tools and consumables, such as: a saw, a screwdriver, an electric drill, a tape measure, mounting foam, dowels, a level, wood screws, a handle, drills and drills of the required diameter.

Step 2

Make a diagram for installing the door frame in the opening. It is worth paying special attention to the threshold. If you cannot hide it on the floor, then it is better to choose a box without it, that is, in the shape of the letter P. Such a box does not have a crossbar at the bottom, which will ensure walking without any obstacles.

Step 3

Box installation. Before attaching the door frame, make sure that there are hinges. The door must have a cutout for the handle and for the lock. Gather all the pieces of the box together and fit into the opening. For convenience, fold all the parts on the floor as they will be installed in the opening.

Step 4

Installation of the door frame in the opening. At this stage, the assembled door frame is installed in the opening and leveled.

Step 5

Landing the door on the hinges. This process is quite simple. The doors are hung on the hinges by hand, it is better to ask someone to help you at this moment.

Step 6

Foaming the gap between the wall and the box.

Step 7

Finishing doorways. The type of finishing of such an opening is selected taking into account the type of the door frame itself and the width of the opening.

In order to perform the installation of interior doors without the involvement of hired workers, it is necessary to consider some steps in more detail in order to avoid unpleasant consequences in the future.

Box assembly

The most painstaking and crucial moment in the assembly of an interior door is the installation of a box. But before you install it, you need to assemble it correctly. At this stage, the proverb about measure 7 times is as relevant as possible.

So, to assemble a U-shaped box, you need:

1. Feigned rack or bar.
2. Loop bar.
3. Ceiling plate.

To carry out the assembly as accurately as possible, you need to measure the size of the opening and the canvas itself down to every millimeter. Next, it is worth calculating the dimensions of the racks and lintels, taking into account the dimensions of the gaps. After that, saw off the individual bars and connect them into a single whole. It should be noted that the thickness of the timber should not be less than the thickness of the canvas. When taking measurements, do not change the tape measure, use only one. Having measured the canvas on the right side, measure it on the left as well, do not rely on the accuracy of the match. All deviations will be necessarily taken into account in further work.

Calculation of the installation of an interior door

When taking measurements, consider the following:

• On the outer sides of the entire beam (ceiling, hinge and feigned), which are in contact with the opening, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1 cm wide for mounting foam.
• There should also be a gap on the inside of the entire beam, but a little less, 0.3 cm. If the box has a threshold, then such a gap is necessary around the entire perimeter.
• The lower plane of the door frame and the floor must have a gap between them. On average, its height should be 1 cm. For linoleum, 0.8 cm is enough, and for fleecy coatings, 1.5 cm.

If the opening is not enough in size, it should be increased and vice versa, reduced if it is too large.

Insert hinges

Usually, two hinges are enough for interior doors, but sometimes three may be needed. The hinges are installed at a distance of 250 mm from the edge of the canvas. If both the canvas and the box are made of wood, then the place for the loops must be chosen so that there are no knots. Initially, the loops are attached only to the canvas.

The stitching order looks like this:

1. We select the places necessary for the loops and outline them with a knife blade.
2. You can work with a milling cutter or a chisel, in which case the material must be matched to the thickness of the loop.
3. We prepare the recess and install a loop in it, the plane of which should be flush with the canvas.
4. The loop that is already inserted into the hole must be fixed with self-tapping screws.

When you have installed the hinges in the door leaf, it is placed in the door frame and the necessary gaps are set.

On the side of the hinges, the gaps should be 5 mm, on the opposite side and at the top 3 mm.

When the gaps are set, they are fixed with wedges. It is also necessary to set the canvas itself, exactly horizontally and vertically.

When everything is exposed, the location of the mating parts should be noted. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove the installed loop and then reinstall it. According to the markup, you need to make a recess. The depth should be such that the surface of the door frame coincides with the hinge.

Hardware installation

Installation of interroom doors cannot do without installation of accessories. According to all safety regulations, interior doors should always open outward. The installation of handles, as well as loops, begins with markings, which should be carried out very carefully. First, mark the level of its height. Usually it is 90 cm. On one side, draw a line with a pencil, stepping back from the edge of 60 mm. Using a ruler, draw a line on the end and make a similar marking on the other side of the door. All marks must be pierced with an awl.

Drill a hole half the thickness of the canvas. Do the same on the other side of the door. At the end of the canvas you need to make a hole with a pen drill. Make sure that all measurements match and do not allow deviations even of 1 mm. Take a chisel and with light taps make a deep cut for the latch. Screw it on with screws. Now it remains only to insert 2 parts of the product. Bring the parts on both sides and try to get into the holes with the guides, then tighten everything with bolts.

At the end, you have to install a metal plate on the end of the door frame. Cut out the cutouts for the plate. Make sure the frame fits snugly against the end and secure the frame with screws.

Box installation

How to install the box correctly? This process requires you to be extremely careful and patient. It is better if someone helps you, then the measurements and installation will be much more accurate.

Installing the door frame in the opening includes the following:

• In advance assembled door must be carefully lifted, preferably with an assistant, and installed in the opening.
• In order to leave the necessary gaps between the wall and the box, you need to make wedges from the remnants of the material.
• Next, screw in the screws.
• We clearly align the base in all directions. There should not be any distortions and discrepancies in the gaps. But if there are any, they can be leveled by loosening or tightening the screws more tightly.
• We hang the door leaf on the hinges and check.
• Where the mounting foam will be poured along the box, we seal the canvas with construction tape. Insert cardboard into the gap and close the door.

As you can see, the process is not that complicated, however, it requires precise measurements and compliance in all sizes.

Foaming

This step is quite important. Filling the gaps between the box and the wall with foam should be carried out after the door is installed. Do not forget that as it dries, the mounting foam increases in volume. If you suddenly overdid it with its quantity, it may well pull out the screws and even bend the box, after which you will not be able to close the door. If this happens, then the installation of the door will need to be started again. During foaming, it is important to lay gaps between the wall and the box with something.

Applying construction foam for gaps is not hard work. The vertical seam must be filled from below. Be extremely careful with the amount of foam used.

Only a third of the opening needs to be filled. In addition to the deformation of the door, the foam can come out and spoil the appearance of the leaf.

Drying of the foam occurs in a day at a temperature of 20 degrees.

Finishing openings

When the door installation is completed, the openings require finishing to bring the overall appearance of the space in order. The type of finish should be selected based on the width of the opening and the door frame.

With a thin wall, when its width is equal to the width of the door frame, platbands can be used for finishing. This is usually how bathroom doors are designed. This option is the simplest and most common. A set of platbands is attached to all sides of the box and closes the building foam. If the platbands are made of wood, then they must first be attached with screws and only then painted. If the platbands are laminated, then they must be fastened with nails without caps or with screws with caps.

If the doorways are wide, then you can trim them using the same platbands or an additional strip, which can be cut to the width you need. Such a bar is attached to the wall using building silicone. The plank and platbands can have a different color with the door. Recently, it is quite important to choose contrasting solutions.

If the door frame is made of wood, then it can be finished with slope plaster. Cement-sand plaster will perfectly emphasize the natural texture of your doors. But this method is not entirely suitable for finishing fiberboard boxes. This is due to their incompatibility with high humidity, which involves plaster work.

Thus, we can say that installing interior doors with your own hands will not take you as much time as it would seem at first glance. Detailed step-by-step instruction will help you avoid the most common installation errors. Correctly performed measurements will guarantee a successful installation of the door. In addition to your own efforts, do not forget to choose quality materials for the work being done so that your efforts do not become a waste of time due to the poor choice of building foam or self-tapping screws.