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How to impose the foundation of the house outside. Facing the basement of the house - finishing options with various materials. Facing with artificial stone

The basement is the lower part of the walls of the building, encircling it around the entire perimeter. Its main function is to protect the building from cold or harsh conditions. environment. It is the decoration of the basement of a private house that performs not only the above functions, but also prevents its destruction and acts as an excellent design solution in the decoration of the building.

The main purposes of finishing the foundation:

  • the foundation needs constant care and protection from moisture, sunlight and other environmental factors, thereby increasing its service life;
  • the surface of the socle without finishing is subject to constant pollution, as a result of which it is destroyed. This happens because in the mud, especially liquid, there are many aggressive substances that cause erosion in concrete, contributing to its destruction;
  • finishing material protects the foundation from damage by fungus, mold or insects;
  • the basement is finished in order to insulate it, since forming a large battery, it sucks out the heat of the building. And even a warm floor will not save from this process. Insulation of the foundation is also necessary to maintain its strength, since in severe frosts the erosion process begins;
  • home decoration, using a variety of finishing materials that act as a decorative element in design decoration. An example will be presented in the photo.

Types of finishing materials

Do-it-yourself plinth decoration is made with a variety of materials, reliably protecting and decorating its surface. It is recommended to start the process of facing the plinth before finishing the walls, so that when using ebbs, they can be hidden under the facing material of the walls.

Before you decide on the choice of material, you need to pay attention to such nuances:

  • when finishing the basement with thick building materials, it will be necessary to additionally install a low tide on the surface of its protruding part;
  • for a significant expansion of the foundation, it is possible to use brickwork;
  • when using corrugated board or siding, a frame is installed for their fastening, into the spaces of which a heat insulator can be inserted, additionally warming the foundation;
  • the use of frame-facing technology allows you to carry out repair activities at any time.

For facing the base, materials are used, which are described below.

Brick

  • slotted;
  • ceramic;
  • hollow stone;
  • hyperpressed modifications.

Ceramic
hyperpressed
Hollow
slotted

The laying technology is as follows:

  • you need to create an additional foundation. To do this, having made a recess 30-40 cm both in length and in depth from the walls of the foundation, it is covered with rubble, having tamped it well;
  • a layer of waterproofing is laid;
  • bricklaying is carried out in half a brick, in spoon rows;
  • after passing 3 rows brickwork, holes are cut in the base and reinforcement 6–10 mm is inserted, which is necessary to bond the surface with the facing material.
  • it is possible to lay a heat-insulating layer between the brickwork and the wall, the joining of which can be carried out with wall thermal insulation, if any. In its absence, the insulation is placed on top of the base under the facing material of the facade.

Clinker

Clinker has an affordable cost and the following advantages:

  • has a good operational resource;
  • there is no need to create your own foundation;
  • The presence of finished corner parts;
  • due to the low weight of the material, the force load on the frame is minimal;
  • decorative coating has artistic value;
  • variety of tiles:
  • broken stone style;
  • imitation brickwork;
  • outwardly similar to a rock polished stone.

Clinker tiles can be fixed in two ways:

  • this is with a special glue;
  • frame, which allows not only to decorate the foundation decoratively, but also to insulate it by inserting a heat insulator into the spaces of the crate.

Fake diamond

Artificial stone is a concrete slab with a decorative outer layer. To improve its characteristics, it is modified with special moisture-resistant additives, and for increased wear resistance, its front side is painted.

This facing material is suitable for any facade coverings.

The technology of its fastening, all the nuances:

  • cleaning the foundation from dust and all kinds of contaminants. When finishing the old foundation, eliminating its errors;
  • surface primer;
  • application of adhesive solution and fastening of plates.

A natural stone

Natural stone is a heavy material that significantly increases the load-bearing frame of the house. The following types of natural stone are used:

  • granite;
  • dolomitic;
  • gravel.

Benefits of natural stone:

  • high strength;
  • water resistance;
  • long service life.

The disadvantages of the material are as follows:

  • the impossibility of performing basement insulation;
  • limited maintainability;
  • the presence of many mortar joints, the finishing of which requires additional costs.

Mounting technology is as follows:

  • before laying the stone, the surface of the basement must be cleaned and treated with a primer;
  • the stone is attached to the cement mortar;
  • at the end of the laying of the stone, all mortar joints must be treated with a special grout to ensure their waterproofing, since the mortar does not have these properties.

Panels

Plastic panels are very popular in finishing not only the basement, but the whole house. They have many benefits:

  • wide range of colors;
  • various texture imitating natural stone, marble, granite and so on;
  • affordable price;
  • simple installation;
  • the possibility of insulating the basement;
  • resistance to moisture, sunlight and temperature extremes.

Mounting technology is as follows:

  • a frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats is installed;
  • prepared panels of appropriate sizes are joined and attached to the crate with screws;
  • facing of corners is carried out using corner, prefabricated elements;
  • an ebb is installed on the upper part of the foundation finish.

Plaster

One of the available options for finishing the foundation is plastering its surface. However, the finishing does not end there, in order to protect the plastered layer from moisture and other external environmental factors, it must be treated with special moisture protective agents, such as acrylic paint, water-based or oil compositions. Thanks to them, the basement is also decorated.

Plastering technology happens:

  • the first option is the plastering of the basement with its further painting;
  • the second option is the insulation of the basement, plastering and applying a layer of paint or decorative plaster.

It is possible to use the technology of decorative plastering, resulting in a surface that looks like a fur coat. To obtain a colored coat, dyes are added to the solution.

Mosaic plaster is also popular. It has small crumbs in its composition, which, after drying, creates the impression of a multi-colored mosaic. It has waterproof properties, thanks to the resin in its composition as a binder.

Tile

Making tiles from polymer-sand composite is an inexpensive option from the above. The advantages of this material:

  • has a different format;
  • plastic structure, due to which cracking of the tile does not occur;
  • light weight of the material;
  • has an attractive texture, imitating natural stone or brickwork;
  • has good resistance to moisture, sunlight, damage.

The disadvantages include the lack of additional elements, which requires adjustment in the finishing of corners.

Tiles can be fixed in two ways:

  • the first method involves fixing the tiles on a special glue, having previously cleaned and primed the surface;
  • the second method involves the creation of a crate on which it is attached. This method has the advantage of being able to insulate the facade.

Porcelain stoneware

Production of ceramic granite tiles is carried out from various kinds clay with the addition of granite chips. Due to this, the material has a strong structure and is suitable for finishing not only walls, but also the basement. Material advantages:

  • wide choose colors and invoices;
  • at use is coming insignificant load on the foundation frame;
  • retains its appearance;
  • has good moisture resistance;
  • durability;
  • does not absorb dirt and dust;
  • simple care.

Laying tiles is carried out on a special adhesive. After that, the seams must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds.

Decorating the finishing layer of the basement surface is carried out in the following ways:

  • painting with paints suitable for the facade. The advantages of such decoration are the ability to choose a color, shade or draw a pattern that matches the facade decoration and the overall design of the house. Also, this method is the most accessible of many;
  • applying finishing decorative plaster. Thanks to wide choice color palette, it can satisfy any requests of home owners;
  • decorating the basement surface can be done from a conventional plastered surface, giving it relief irregularities. After drying such a surface, the finish of the plinth resembles a finishing stone. Any form of irregularities can be produced, at the discretion of the owner of the house.

Photo different ways plinth decorations are presented below.

Finishing Features

The basement is the foundation of any building, so the importance of its finishing speaks for itself. Since the plinth is constantly exposed to external environmental factors, finishing materials must be durable, resistant to moisture, cold and sunlight.

Finishing material should not only protect the basement from adverse factors, but also give an aesthetic appearance to the building. The plinth is finished before the walls are finished. There are two types of plinth finishes, raised and recessed, each of which has its own advantages. To improve the adhesion of finishing materials and the foundation, a primer is used.

Summing up, we can say that the plinth finish has great importance, it acts not only as a decorating element in the design of a private house, but also acts as its protector, so the basement is one of the main parts of the building - this is its foundation. For its decoration, different building materials with different characteristics and properties are used, the choice of which is made from the personal preferences of the owner and his financial capabilities.

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Self-finishing plinth with stone - 2 proven and reliable options

As you know, the base is visible above-ground part foundation of the house. And the foundation is the basis of the whole structure and the durability of your home directly depends on its safety. Therefore, protecting the basement from natural and many other adversities is not a whim of the designer, but an urgent need. In this article, we will talk about which stone is currently used for such work, and I will also dwell on two options for finishing the base with natural and artificial stone with your own hands.

Varieties and features of the material

Stone for finishing the basement of the house has been used for centuries. It has a large arsenal of various advantages. But if earlier it was exclusively natural stone, now, in more than half of the cases, the basement is finished with artificial stone.

  • Natural granite has always been considered the king of basement cladding.. Its natural characteristics are the best suited for use in this sector. This finishing stone easily withstands both the July heat and the harsh January frosts. Moreover, for granite it is absolutely not important in which climatic zone it is mounted.
    On the market, the material is presented in the form of plates with a thickness of 10 mm or more, and is also sold in solid boulders. Naturally, for finishing work, we are only interested in slabs;
  • Many wealthy people unknowingly order marble basement decoration, and in this case this is not always justified. The fact that this material is fabulously expensive is not the worst thing. Marble is a rather capricious rock and can be used in warm and temperate climates. But, starting from middle lane our great homeland and further north, it is undesirable to finish the basement with marble.
    At high humidity, which is always in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base and temperature changes, the marble begins to crack and gradually crumble. Therefore, if you really want to, then the plinth can be finished with granite, and then marble;

  • Slate is currently the top seller.. This material is also called shepherdess. It is a layered rock, which has a fairly dense structure and at the same time is easy to work with.
    Slate possesses excellent performance strength and durability. And the best part is the relatively affordable price. If you don’t have a lot of money, but you basically want natural material, then slate is your option;
  • You often hear about the magnificent qualities of the shell rock. If you are building a house, then shell rock blocks are a good choice. But here it is not suitable for finishing the basement. The fact is that the shell rock is perhaps the most porous of building materials, only easier cellular concrete. And since the material is porous, it is able to absorb moisture. As a result, after several cycles of freezing, the lining will begin to crumble slowly;

  • Sandstone is a fairly common rock.. This material is relatively inexpensive and is quite suitable for basement cladding. The only problem is that the color range here is small, in fact, it does not exist at all.
    So, as a decorative stone, sandstone is rather weak. Although no one bothers you to paint your plinth in any color you like or cover the sandstone with colored facade varnish. But we will talk about the intricacies of this process a little later;
  • There is also quartzite, dolomite, lemesite, shigunite and a number of other minerals and rocks. But they can rather be classified as narrow-profile, since they are often used in the area in which they are mined.

Finishing with the so-called wild stone cannot be attributed to any rock or mineral. In fact, it can be any stone, including artificial, the main thing is that no traces of manual processing are visible on it. The easiest way out in this case is to use river or sea pebbles.

As I said, artificial stone is now very widely used for finishing the basement. Good uncles chemists have achieved such perfection in this matter that the guarantee for most materials on the market starts from 50 years.

As such, there is no gradation by variety, the name is assigned depending on the use of a particular filler in production.

In short, the production technology is based on the fact that any natural material is taken, crushed and re-combined based on a polymer binder. So this stone can only be called artificial by half.

As you understand, the shape, color and texture of such a lining can be given any. To be honest, working with such material is a pleasure. After all, such a tile has well-defined dimensions, and most importantly, it weighs an order of magnitude less. For a novice master, this is what you need.

Separately, it should be said about the flexible stone. It is positioned as a thin cut of natural stone, additionally reinforced with a polymer.

This cladding looks quite decent. A flexible stone is produced in the form of wallpaper and tiles. Naturally, only tiles can be used for the basement.

But to be honest, in my lifetime I have not seen a plinth lined with a flexible stone. First, the price for it is fabulous. And secondly, the maximum thickness of the tile is about 3 mm.

Accordingly, this material cannot be considered as a serious protection for the base. Plus, flexible stone is now considered one of the market leaders in terms of the number of fakes of dubious quality.

If there is very little money, but you really want to see a decorative stone on the basement of your house, then you can veneer it under the stone with cement. I will not undertake to say for sure, but it is believed that this is the know-how of exclusively our enterprising people.

I will tell you a little later, in method No. 2, how the facing with cement mortar under the stone is performed. And now I will tell you step by step all the subtleties of finishing with artificial and wild stone.

Two ways to cover the plinth for those who like to do everything themselves

Plinth finish natural stone with their own hands is divided into several stages. This is the application of the soil, the arrangement of the base, the actual installation itself and the finishing of the masonry. But even before the start of work, it is advisable to decide on a binder for masonry.

Glue or cement mortar

Even in the recent past, all such work was carried out exclusively with the help of a cement-sand mortar, there was simply nothing else. Now store shelves are littered with a variety of adhesives. But they cost an order of magnitude more expensive than a cement-sand mortar.

Personally, I always try to lay the finishing stone on modern adhesives, mainly on Ceresit. But many people, as a rule, out of economy, in the old fashioned way, prefer to mount the stone on the cement mortar. I'm not saying that this is bad, just not every stone can be laid on a cement-sand mortar.

  • The first category of stones is low-porosity, these include slate, dark granite and quartzite. These are moisture resistant materials, their level of absorption is quite low and therefore they can be laid both on and on the solution;

  • Dark marble, light granite and sandstone are medium porous stones. In theory, they can still be mounted on a simple solution, but this can only be done in a warm and temperate climate. In general, it’s better not to take risks here and buy good glue;
  • If you are dealing with white granite, white marble, travertine, as well as any kind of limestone, then you can simply ruin them with a cement-sand mortar. These materials are mounted exclusively on specialized glue.

As for artificial stones, each of them has an instruction that clearly indicates which types of glue should be used for installation. In most cases, glue is taken for laying heavy tiles, although there are exceptions. It is better not to use the usual cement mortar for the installation of artificial materials at all.

Foundation preparation

The aforementioned slate or plastushka now occupies the lion's share of the market for external facade cladding with natural materials. Therefore, further we will consider all actions using the example of slate cladding.

First you will need to inspect your foundation for defects. Natural stone is a heavy thing, so it is mounted either on a solid cast strip foundation, or on a foundation made of FBS blocks.

If this is a one-piece cast option, then only random influxes will need to be knocked down there, but they are rare, since the monolith is poured into the formwork, and it is often even. In a block foundation, of course, you will have to close up all the seams between the blocks; a cement-sand mortar will help you here.

The next step is to cover the base with soil. Since we are dealing with a concrete base, the good old concrete contact will be an ideal tool. For a tape monolith, you can take any option.

But for a block structure, coarse-grained soil should be taken. And since the FBS blocks are absolutely smooth, they need to be primed in at least 2 layers.

While the soil is drying, you can do something else. milestone preparation. Almost all heavy types of cladding, which are usually mounted on mortar, require additional surface reinforcement, because one glue, even a very good one, is not enough to hold such a weight.

Traditionally used to reinforce the plinth metal grid netting. Cell size is better to take medium or small. Such a grid is attached to the “Quick Installation” dowels with wide washers.

If possible, it is better to fix the mesh to the concrete base with steel building dowels. But driving them into concrete, especially into FBS blocks with a simple hammer or sledgehammer, is very problematic. Here you will need a construction pistol, but it is expensive and only professionals have it.

Now many owners are insulating the foundation and, of course, the basement of the house. So, if you are going to install insulation, then only extruded polystyrene foam is suitable under the stone. Now he is better known as "Penoplex", although this is only a trademark.

It is strictly forbidden to mount such heaters that are now common as polystyrene foam or mineral wool on the base, and even more so under a heavy stone. Penoplex itself is glued to concrete on Ceresit CT83, after which a chain-link is mounted on it.

Method number 1: installation of natural or artificial stone on the base

As a rule, plastushka in hardware stores is sold packed in square piles. You can still choose the average thickness of the tile, but the dimensions there will be different. By the way, for finishing the base it is better to take stones with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm.

So, in order not to “interrupt” the entire stack later, take your time and immediately sort the whole stone into three piles. Put large stones in one pile, medium ones in the second and all the little things in the third.

If the height of the base does not exceed 1 m, then it makes sense to measure the same distance nearby on the ground and lay out the whole. No matter how strange it may sound, but with this technique you will save a lot of time. Construction adhesive sets quite quickly, and during operation every minute counts.

It is very important how you lay the bottom row, or rather, what it will rely on. Usually there are 2 options:

  • According to the first option, the soil is first selected and the resulting pit is filled up and the filling under the future blind area is rammed. It is on this backfill that the lining rests. But there is a rather unpleasant moment here: no matter how you ram the backfill, it will eventually sit down anyway and there is a possibility of cracks appearing on the lining of the basement;
  • The second option provides for a rigid fastening at the level of the same steel corner dumping with a wing of at least 45 mm. But you yourself understand, sooner or later the steel corner will rot, and the lining may settle. Although you have about 10 years before this sad moment.

I do it a little differently. First, you will need to select medium-sized dies, you need to select them in such a way that they are almost completely hidden under the blind area.

Further, based on the compacted backfill, these dies sit on construction glue. This will be the lower support row for us, and so that it does not sag over time, at the end of the work, that is, after the glue has set, I drill through holes through the tile directly into the foundation.

After that, I drive galvanized or nickel-plated anchor bolts with a cross section of at least 10 mm into these holes. Thus, we are guaranteed to insure the bottom row from subsidence.

The system for laying the top rows of the plate is quite simple. First you need to glue the largest fragments, and all the holes that will inevitably remain between them are laid with medium and small pebbles. On the wall, the adhesive is applied with a trowel, and on the stone, with a notched trowel.

When the glue has set well, you will need to cover the seams between the stones. For these purposes, a special grout is sold.

You can buy it at any hardware store. But it is better to buy it together with a stone, so there will be an opportunity to choose by color. As a rule, sellers offer it along with a stone.

As for the artificial stone, then, as I said, it has well-defined dimensions. And it fits in about the same way as a standard tile.

When laying standard tiles plastic crosses are used to provide gaps. And when installing some models of artificial stone, it is undesirable to make gaps. So, if you don’t have any experience at all, then it’s better to forget about the recommendations and lay the stone with gaps, then you will rub the seams. Believe me, it will turn out more qualitatively.

If you plan to varnish, then you can start doing this after about 3 to 4 days, when the grout and glue are completely dry. There is nothing complicated in the process itself. Simply dust off and apply at least 2 coats of any waterproof facade varnish.

Method number 2: we make a stone from cement

Finishing the plinth under a stone with the help of ordinary cement, of course, does not look as luxurious as granite or plastic, but with a creative approach to business, it has a right to exist. Thus, I revetted the basement in the country.

In this case, a coating of large pebbles will be simulated. The technology itself does not cause difficulties even for beginners. By the way, there is no need to level the concrete tape or seal the seams on the block foundation.

The brand of cement should be taken higher, I used M500. Initially, an ordinary cement-sand mortar is mixed in a standard ratio of 1: 3. But the solution needs to be made a little thicker than, for example, for brickwork. After all, you will have to form “stones” with your own hands and you need to ensure that they do not spread.

Further, according to the above scheme, cover the concrete with soil a couple of times. And as the “stones” are formed, sculpt these “stones” on the surface moistened with water. Ideally, of course, it is better to stuff a reinforcing mesh. But if the height of the base does not exceed half a meter, then you can do without it.

After the plinth is lined, let the cement grab a little, but not completely. While it is still wet, you need to bring beauty. That is, draw the boundaries between your impromptu stones with embroidery or simply with a finger dipped in water.

The stones themselves should be wiped with a sponge or cloth moistened with water. This is necessary to remove traces from the hands, and they, believe me, will definitely remain.

But that's not all: in this form, the masonry will look, to put it mildly, not very respectable, so after 2 - 3 weeks you will have to paint it. Of course, you can get by with store-bought paints and varnishes, but I found a good one. folk recipe. It looks good and is reasonably priced.

  • First you cover the masonry blue color, and on top of it, go through another yellowish tint. The result is an almost complete resemblance to the green natural stone;
  • To make blue paint, you need to take a five percent solution of hydrochloric acid and add copper sulfate to it. The standard proportion is 1:5 (vitriol / acid solution). But the intensity of the color can be adjusted by adding, or vice versa, reducing the amount of copper sulfate;
  • To obtain a yellow tint, you need to mix with the same acid solution inkstone. Here the proportion will already be approximately 1:3. We paint with a regular brush. And don't be afraid to experiment with shades.

Both of these folk paints are prepared during the day. That is, after mixing the ingredients, the solution must be allowed to stand for 24 hours. But on the other hand, such paints in your closet can stand as long as you like, the main thing is not to forget to close it tightly.

Paints are applied in a row with a break of no more than 2 - 3 hours. Then you need to let them soak well, it can take up to 7 hours, after which you take a brush and wash your masonry under running water.

If you like it, then after a day you wash it again with water and leave it to dry. If the result did not satisfy, you can repeat everything again, but everything suited me the first time.

For varnishing, the same waterproof varnish for outdoor work is used, you need to process it from 2 times or more, it's up to you to decide. It is applied to a dry surface with a simple brush.

Although, in order to enhance the effect of the masonry, I additionally took and painted with simple paint the entire jointing between the stones, it turned out to be quite nothing.

Conclusion

Natural or artificial stone for finishing the basement of the house, in my opinion, fits perfectly. And do not be afraid to do everything yourself, there is nothing particularly difficult in this process. In the photo and video in this article, some more moments of arranging the basement with stone are collected. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, we'll talk.

October 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Finishing the basement of a private building performs not only a decorative function, but also protects the lower part of the building from environmental influences. The basement is a part of the foundation that rises above the surface of the earth, protecting it from moisture and cold. Therefore, it must be lined with durable and resistant, but at the same time beautiful material.

Finishes

Today, the building materials market offers a variety of varieties of foundation finishes. An ordinary consumer is often concerned about the question of what material is ideal for facing the basement of a private house.

There are many options for finishing the basement, the main thing is to choose the most suitable for your home

Options for the most popular finishing materials:

  • natural or artificial stone;
  • decorative plaster;
  • facing brick;
  • siding;
  • clinker tiles;
  • sandwich panels.

Finishing the plinth with natural stone

This type of finish is the most expensive option. In addition, this is a very long-term event. But natural stone is better than many materials in its characteristics, it is resistant to the effects of the natural environment and is extremely durable. If they impose a facade wooden house, it will give the building an expensive and solid look.

Most often it is made of limestone, sandstone, marble, granite or onyx.. Natural stone does not require additional care. Tiles are available in different sizes - from bricks to slabs and textures (smooth or grainy).


Installation of stone tiles:

  1. Using an adhesive for working with stone, the tiles are glued one by one to the base. To avoid peeling and cracking, use only this adhesive.
  2. To achieve the effect of integrity, the distance between small tiles should be no more than 6 mm, and between large tiles - 2-3 mm or 1-2 cm, with a visible separation.
  3. The filling of the joints is done with a frost-resistant mortar, and the processing of sandstones and limestones is carried out with a water-repellent agent.

Finishing the plinth with artificial stone

Existing options for artificial stone, as well as a large selection of colors, allow you to choose the material for every taste. It must be durable, resistant to moisture and temperature extremes.
Artificial material is visually almost indistinguishable from natural, but has a lower cost.


Installation of artificial tiles.

Stone tiles are glued to an elastic or plain mortar. It would be better to treat the lined base with a water-repellent agent, this measure will increase the service life by more than 3-4 years.

Finishing the plinth with siding

Facing the plinth with siding is an economical and quick type of finish. The material is not afraid of temperature fluctuations and moisture, which makes it possible to use in any conditions.
The cost of siding panels is much lower than stone ones, and Finishing work go faster and easier. In addition, this material is quite beautiful, and also looks solid.


The process of installing the plinth with siding

Plinth plastering

It is relatively inexpensive, but effective method make insulation and protection of the foundation from the influence of the environment. In the old days, the basement was simply plastered, now it is mandatory to insulate the foundation with all kinds of heat-insulating materials, followed by the application of plaster.


Insulation prevents the penetration of cold to the foundation of the building, while the mesh creates a solid basis for applying the mortar and structural strength. To protect against moisture and improve the appearance, the surface of the foundation is then painted.

You can veneer the finished base with stone or siding.

Decorative finishing of the foundation

Such a finish consists in decorating the foundation by painting, creating effects, and siding. Also, with a rasp, you can create a semblance of brick or masonry, mark the seams with contrasting paint or veneer with stone.

Finishing the basement of the house with mineral plaster

This type of material contains small fractions from 0.8 to 3 mm in diameter. The resin contained in the basis of the plaster gives it water-repellent properties. At the same time, the material is resistant to cold, mechanical damage.. Possesses vapor permeability.

It is possible to apply the material on concrete, gypsum and mineral plasters. Mosaic plaster cannot be applied over unnatural bases.

Plastering process:

  1. Mineral plaster is applied manually. Before applying mosaic plaster, the base should be lightly covered with a plaster mortar to enhance adhesion to the foundation.
  2. Mosaic plaster is laid in a layer corresponding to the diameter of the fractions. Smooth with a stainless steel grater before it dries. The direction of movement of the grater does not change. Work is carried out on a wet surface to avoid visible joints.
  3. The finished base in the very first days is treated with a hydrophobic composition.

Thermal panels

Thermal panels are glued to the plinth like ordinary tiles. Glue-foam or glue for polystyrene foam is applied to their ends. The panels are glued and the seams are rubbed. The grout paste should be the color of thermal panels or white. For optimal shrinkage, it includes marble chips.
Warming of the corners of a wooden house is carried out using a corner thermopanel, made by hand using a construction knife.


Advantages of the thermopanel:

  1. It does not need processing, as well as coloring.
  2. It does not get dirty, there is a self-cleaning effect.
  3. Easy installation and replacement of damaged thermal panels.
  4. The outer layer of the panel is protected from moisture and vapor permeable.
  5. It is insensitive to ultraviolet, well reflects the rays.
  6. Thermal panels are characterized by elasticity, strength, durability.
  7. It is resistant to temperature extremes.
  8. It has heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties.
  9. The panel is not subject to mold.

Facing the plinth with thermal panels with clinker tiles

Such thermal panels can not only improve the appearance of the base of a private wooden house, but also insulate the foundation.


Clinker tiles imitate brick, but at a much cheaper price. It is made by firing, like natural clinker bricks.

Thermal panels are plates made of extruded polystyrene foam, finished with appropriate decorative elements. They are easy and quick to install, provide insulation, as well as protection from moisture.

Clinker tiles

The foundation, sheathed with such tiles, looks like a wall of clinker brick, only much lighter and thinner. The tiles are glued to plaster, concrete and thermal insulation. It can bend and stick even on curved surfaces.


Do-it-yourself plinth finishing:

  1. First, the line from which the tiles begin to be laid is determined (the height of the plinth divided by the width of the tiles, plus the width of the joint).
  2. On tiles and base area 1 square meter glue is applied.
  3. Starting from the corner, the first 4 tiles are glued.
  4. After 2-3 days, the tile joints can be filled with a cold-resistant jointing mortar. This is not necessary, because the puffer can be replaced by glue protruding from the seams.
  5. Such a tile does not need water-repellent impregnation, since it does not absorb moisture.

PVC paneling

This material will good choice for the owners of a private house who decided to do without wet work. The panels can be easily installed on your own. In appearance, they may resemble mosaic plaster or the surface of a brick wall. They are granules natural material recessed in the plane of the panels.

Panel installation:

  1. The level is set and the starting profile is set at the bottom of the foundation.
  2. With the help of grooves and ridges, adjacent elements are connected.
  3. The upper part of the plinth is covered with an overlay profile.
  4. The corners are covered with corner pieces.
  5. A plinth sheathed in this way does not need to be treated with a water-repellent agent.

The foundation can be finished with small (0.4 by 0.18 m) or large (0.6 by 0.18 m and 1.2 by 0.18 m) panels in 40 color combinations.

Covering the plinth of a wooden house with sandwich panels

The panels are made of two layers of material (mainly metal) connected by hot pressing insulation. Due to the layered structure, the panels provide excellent insulation, durability and strength. In addition, they look presentable and are easy to install, without excessive load on the base.


The surface can be smooth, decorated or profiled.

The above materials for lining the plinth are the most popular with the consumer, due to their decorative, heat-insulating and water-repellent qualities. Insulation of the basement of a wooden house can be performed using any of them.

An important element of the house is the plinth, which protects the lower part of the outer walls of the building. It must be made in an appropriate way, while it must have strength and resistance to various adverse factors. You should think carefully about how to finish the plinth so that it is stable and at the same time architecturally attractive. The outer walls from below are finished most often ceramic tiles or clinker, but sometimes decorative stone and other materials are also found.

How to properly and how to veneer the basement of the house?

The plinth is top part foundation wall, which is usually located above the ground at a height of 30-50 cm. This height depends on the place where the house is built, the level ground water and foundation structures. Higher plinths can be made in the construction of a foundation partially buried in the ground, in the case of a basement.

The main function of the plinth is to protect the lower part of the outer walls of the building from mechanical damage (to avoid damage to the waterproofing layer) and to preserve the walls from high humidity. Wetness can be caused by heavy rain and melting snow, which is thrown directly under the walls of the building. If properly built and properly lined with a plinth, it will protect the walls from water and will be an attractive architectural accent of the house. However, in any case, it is worth avoiding the accumulation of large snow drifts near the building.

Plinth recessed or protruding?

In most cases, typical private houses are made with a sunken plinth, which is hidden under the facade of the building. In this solution, water flowing from the façade will run off the wall, which will provide a higher degree of protection of the walls from moisture.


The decision on the type of plinth must be made already at the stage of foundation construction, in order to correctly complete the foundation and select the individual layers of the outer walls.

In the case of a sunken basement, a special profile is used that is resistant to rainwater and protects the lower part of the house from mechanical damage and moisture.

In the case of thermal insulation of external walls with mineral wool or polystyrene boards, special starter strips can also be used, located in the lower protruding part of the facade.


The protruding base is less common. However, sometimes it can be interesting architectural element building. In the case of a plinth protruding from the facade of a building, its upper part must be reinforced with appropriately selected steel profiles or ceramic tiles.

It is important that a height difference of approximately 6-10% be made, which ensures a smooth outflow of rainwater without settling it on the wall (facade). In no case should the upper surface of the plinth be horizontal, without a slope, as this will quickly lead to dampness of the walls and damage to the facade at the point of its connection with the plinth.

If we want to line the entire plinth with decorative stone, we must choose its thickness correctly so that an appropriate water drain can be carried out.

The protection of the upper surface of the base should protrude by about 2-5 cm, which will ensure that rainwater runs off the surface without causing dampness in the wall.

The least rare are plinths that are made flush with the wall, that is, in the same plane with it or a flat facade to the ground. Such solutions have to be designed individually and require a very precise selection of all materials. It is important in this case, the proper execution of all connections of the facade cladding and the choice of durable and frost-resistant materials.

Ceramic tiles or clinker tiles are a fairly common basement material. In this case, frost resistance parameters are very important. finishing material.

Make sure the tiles have sufficient resistance to low temperatures in winter and have a water absorption of no more than 8% (for ceramic tiles). Materials that do not meet these requirements may be too fragile for finishing.

Ceramic and clinker tiles can be especially useful in the case of finishing the plinth, which protrudes in relation to the plane of the facade of the building. Available in various thicknesses, shapes and designs.

For the strength of the base is even more important right choice glue. In this case, it is imperative to use a high-quality elastic and frost-resistant adhesive so that individual tiles or even entire arrays do not peel off. The tiles must be glued to the plastered surface. Before gluing, it is recommended to lay a special mesh, which will increase the elasticity of the entire structure.


It is also imperative that the grout used is resistant to water and frost. In the case of clinker tiles, it is necessary to use glue and grout specially designed for clinker, which protect against the so-called fading (white spots on the surface of the clinker). Adhesives and grouts are also available on the market, available in a variety of colors, allowing you to choose the color of your tile grout.

If you want to tile the plinth of your house, you have a very wide range of colors and patterns, which allows you to match the finish in relation to the facade of the building.

An important advantage of a tile or clinker finish is that such a surface is easy to keep clean, clean and wash without damage. Tiles are also resistant to mechanical damage, although to a lesser extent than surfaces finished with natural stone (which are more durable than ceramic or clinker).


If you want to clad the plinth with stone, keep in mind that this is a very labor intensive and therefore more expensive method than finishing with ceramic tiles or base plaster. This is due to the fact that the correct choice of stone is necessary in order to be able to maintain an approximately equal joint thickness over the entire surface.

To perform this type of finish is usually used:

  • large pebbles, although in this case there are difficulties in selecting flat stones close to each other in size;
  • chipped stone;
  • stone tiles.


Natural stone tiles are characterized by a very spectacular outer surface.

Stone tiles and stone are characterized by good rainwater drainage properties and the ability to easily keep the surface clean. The stone is also very resistant to mechanical damage, which will provide good protection of the thermal insulation and the lower part of the outer walls from moisture.

Due to the high labor intensity, finishing the plinth with natural stone is a relatively expensive solution. In addition, it is worth making sure that this type of finish will look harmonious in the architecture of the rest of the house (stone is not always suitable for houses in modern style). In order to save money, the plinth is often finished with stone-like panels that imitate the pattern and pattern of natural stone.


There is also the possibility of finishing the surface of the plinth with plaster. For this purpose, acrylic and mineral plasters are used. Despite the fact that both types of plaster masses can be used for external walls, it is still not recommended to use acrylic plaster.


Acrylic and mineral plasters differ significantly in price (not in favor of mineral ones), but when choosing, you should not take into account only the price criterion.

Acrylic plasters come in a much wider range of colors and can also be painted without any major problems in any chosen color. In the case of mineral plasters available on the market, the choice of color is more limited.

A few years ago, mineral plasters were sold as a dry mixture, which had to be diluted with the required amount of water. In the absence of experience, it is not always possible to make the right solution. Now, however, they are available on the market in ready-made masses, which allows them to be applied directly from the container to the walls, as is the case with acrylic plasters. These masses are more expensive than dry mixes, but after adding the cost of labor, it often turns out that the cost will be the same. Finished masses do not require as long drying and water protection as dry plasters, which often require protection for about 3-5 days.

Mineral plasters are more durable than acrylic ones. However, it should be noted that no plaster will be as resistant to impacts and dents as ceramic or stone.

The advantages of acrylic plasters are that they are more flexible and thus better suited for finishing surfaces subjected to varying temperatures. However, they are less resistant to moisture, which can accumulate in some places and destroy the surface.

Being engaged in facing the house, special attention must be paid to the finishing of the basement. Depending on the construction technology, it can act as a separate element or be separate part foundation that rises above the ground. Unlike the main wall, it has direct contact with the ground, which is why a lot of attention must be paid to finishing this area. It may well be possible to finish the basement with your own hands, but at the same time, experts recommend taking into account some points and nuances.

Before studying the materials and technologies for finishing the basement, it is worth deciding on its type. So, depending on the location of the foundation to the outer plane of the wall, the following main types are distinguished:

  1. Speaker. Such a foundation is poured for thin walls, so you should first worry about arranging the drain. Otherwise, water will accumulate on the ledge. As a result, it will lead to destruction.
  2. One level. V modern construction this technology is rarely used, because in the process exterior finish it will be too difficult to achieve the desired level of waterproofing.
  3. sinking. A common option that will be easy to protect from the effects of natural factors, since it does not need a drain. Facing in this case will be less deformed from snow and rain.

Decorative plaster

A fairly common method of finishing the foundation, moreover, it does not require special knowledge or abilities. Work is performed in the following order:

  1. Cleaning the surface of the foundation from dust and dirt.
  2. Applying a deep penetration primer.
  3. In the presence of clearly defined irregularities, it is recommended to fix the reinforcing mesh. Suitable welded, woven or made of fiberglass.
  4. Applying a layer of decorative plaster.
  5. After complete drying, you can start painting.

Preferring decorative plaster, it should be remembered that this option is not suitable for finishing a protruding base. High loads on the material will soon deform the applied layer, and it will lose its attractiveness.

On a still wet layer of plaster, imprints of a pattern or pattern are applied, and structuring is also performed.

It is possible to veneer the plinth with both natural and artificial stone. Let's take a closer look at the natural version. It should be borne in mind that it has a lot of weight, so the finishing process will be quite laborious. Despite the complexity of the process, many decide to do it on their own. The order of work is as follows:

  1. Surface cleaning and priming.
  2. Selection of suitable elements in shape and size.
  3. Application of adhesive solution in a thick layer.
  4. Laying stone, starting from the bottom row. This will prevent the heavy stone from sliding down.
  5. Coating with frost-resistant and water-repellent composition.

It is also worth considering that the stone will add load to the foundation. Additional calculations will be required to ensure that this finish can be applied.

This artificial material in modern construction and decoration is very common. The list of its benefits includes:

  • wear resistance;
  • strength;
  • resistance to temperature extremes;
  • low rate of water absorption.

Due to the presence of the latter indicator, porcelain stoneware is insensitive to frost. To date, the hardware store has a large assortment of porcelain tiles:

  • matte;
  • satin;
  • polished;
  • glazed;
  • aged;
  • imitating leather, stone and fabric.

Considering the process of finishing the basement with the selected material, it should be said that it is fixed either on the frame or with special adhesive solutions. Wireframe method provided for additional insulation. This method is more laborious, but you can also do it yourself:

  1. Foundation preparation: cleaning and priming.
  2. Metal slats with already existing special fasteners act as a frame. It is with their help that the slats are fixed to the base. As a result, a small gap for ventilation is formed between the wall and the grate.
  3. There should be a distance of 20 cm from the ground to the beginning of the frame. This will be enough to raise the ground to winter time.
  4. A heater of your choice is inserted into the resulting gap. It is best to give preference to foam or mineral wool.
  5. With the help of kleimers, the frame is sheathed with porcelain stoneware slabs.

If we talk about adhesive solutions, then everything is much simpler here: glue is applied to the prepared foundation and the stone is fixed on top.

The use of cement mortar is prohibited, since in this case the stone will simply peel off in the cold.

Vinyl panels

Among the budget ways to finish the basement, this one is the best. The whole secret lies in simple method installation: the elements are joined together in a tongue-and-groove way. The result is a durable surface. Thanks to siding, the foundation of the house will be reliably protected, as the innovative material has significant advantages:

  • resistance to high and sudden changes in temperature;
  • durability;
  • low sensitivity to moisture;
  • there is a wide range of colors and shapes of plates.

In most cases, vinyl panels are used when it is necessary to carry out external insulation. The algorithm of actions is quite simple and implies the presence of such processes:

  1. Waterproofing: the film is laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm and fixed with nails or construction tape.
  2. Installation of a horizontal crate. Metal rails are used. The step is calculated individually according to the following scheme: 1/3 of the panel length. In this case, the lowest bar should rise above the ground at a distance of 15 cm. The resulting gap should correspond to the size of the insulation plus 3 cm for ventilation.
  3. Laying a heat insulator and a vapor barrier.
  4. From the bottom of the crate, at the corners, the first plank (corner profile) is fixed.
  5. Subsequent panels are fixed to the starting bar and screwed loosely with self-tapping screws. A 3 mm gap should remain from the cap to the panel, since the material can change in volume under the influence of atmospheric phenomena.
  6. For a protruding base, a special ebb is installed on top.

The unique technology of siding production allows you to convey the texture of expensive wood, natural stone and other materials.

Ceramic tile

Clinker tiles can also be used as a facing material. In the modern building materials market, clinker tiles are very popular. The surface may be different:

  • smooth;
  • raw;
  • imitate brick;
  • imitate paving stones.

When finishing the basement of a house with ceramic tiles, the following work is assumed:

  1. Surface cleaning and leveling with special mixtures.
  2. Padding.
  3. Preparation of the adhesive composition according to the instructions on the package. Applying a 4 mm thick layer to the foundation.
  4. Start laying from the outer corner. Special attention give vertical seams that should not match. For the convenience of creating even seams, it is recommended to use special crosses, which are then removed.
  5. The final step is grouting the joints with special frost-resistant compounds.

To emphasize unity created design throughout the house, clinker tiles are used not only for decorating the basement, but also for the corners of the walls.

When applying the solution, care must be taken not to form voids. Otherwise, in winter, they will expand, and the tiles will fall off.

Other materials

In fact, the list of possible materials for decorating the foundation is several times larger. So it is possible to finish the basement of the house with glass, flagstone or ceramic fragments. For these cases, it is recommended to perform the process in this way:

  1. Surface cleaning and leveling.
  2. Carrying out calculations of the required amount of material, according to the allotted area for cladding.
  3. Priming of the base with concrete carbonate. Removal of excess cement on the foundation.
  4. Application of tile adhesive or cement (depending on the chosen cladding material). Apply it in stages.
  5. Fixing flagstone or colored glass to the prepared base. Secure with light taps to release air.
  6. Filling voids between large pieces with small broken elements.
  7. Seam cleaning.
  8. Coating the dried surface with varnish and installing a protective visor over the protruding part of the foundation.

Thanks to the finishing of the plinth, several problems can be solved at the same time: immediate protection, additional thermal insulation, as well as giving a complete look. Pick up best option only the owner himself can, since the choice will depend on personal preferences and desires. It is not so difficult to do the cladding on your own, as can be seen from the above article.

Video

How to make a plinth tile finish, see below:

Photo

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