Preparation of walls for wallpaper in a new building. Preparing walls for wallpapering. Working with different surfaces

Appearing a little over a century ago, wallpapers have changed dramatically, thereby changing the pasting technology. At the same time, all metamorphoses have occurred mainly over the past 20-30 years - if anyone knows only the old methods and techniques for working with paper tapestries, in modern realities will not be able to stick wallpaper with high quality, since newspapers will no longer help here. New types of tapestries require a different approach when preparing walls for their subsequent wallpapering. Why has technology changed so much and how to prepare walls for wallpaper?

The need for preparatory work when pasting walls with tapestries is due to three factors:

The use for the construction of new types of wall materials (foam concrete, gas silicate, etc.) that do not hold tapestries on their surface without preliminary preparation of the canvas;
Pasting in some cases a smooth surface on which the glue does not hold the wallpaper well;
Production of heavy or very thin types of wallpaper. In the first case, problems arise when creating conditions for strong adhesion of the wall surface and wallpaper, in the second, all defects in the pasted surface are immediately evident, since modern tapestries do not hide them, but protrude.

In this regard, in the process of preparing the walls, the following tasks should be solved:

Creating good adhesion between wallpaper adhesive and wall material. There are two problems here: the porosity of many building materials and smooth surfaces of concrete, glass, tiles, etc. In the first case, approximately 50% of the wallpaper area is in contact with the wall, which leads to constant peeling of the wallpaper and seams coming apart. During the preparatory work, the pores are stopped, a continuous film of primer is created on the surface of the wall material, which ensures perfect adhesion between the wall and the adhesive composition applied to the tapestries. In the second case, it is necessary to create a good adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall - the problem is solved by applying special primers.
Alignment of the walls under the wallpaper. Modern wallpapers, both thin and dense, do not hide even minor wall irregularities. This is especially noticeable in daylight. Therefore, the elimination of wall defects is one of the most important tasks in the preparatory work.
Fight against mold and fungus. This, at first glance, a secondary task actually helps to solve the eternal problem of plaster - the appearance of microorganisms in cracks and crevices in damp rooms and on walls - cold and moisture coming from the street create ideal conditions for the growth and reproduction of mold and different kind fungi.

A variety of tasks to be solved when preparing walls for wallpapering breaks down the step-by-step instructions for a complete technological process on independent blocks: preparation of walls, their repair and alignment.

Stages of preparing walls for pasting with tapestries

How to prepare walls for wallpapering? The preparation of walls for gluing consists of several successive technological processes.

The preparatory stage, which completes the construction and installation work in the new building. Must be: work on laying the floor screed; completed wiring electrical wiring; mounted door frame (windows); fitted with built-in furniture.
Old wallpaper, paint are removed from the walls, nails and self-tapping screws are removed.
The quality of the old plaster is checked by tapping with a hammer. When deaf sounds appear, the wall is cleaned of the plaster layer.
Chips, peelings are repaired, microcracks are repaired.
If necessary, the walls are washed (oil stains, soot, dirt are washed off).
A primer is applied to create a good bond between the wall and the plaster layer.
Lighthouses are exposed.
The walls are plastered with cement-sand mortar.
The applied plaster layer is primed, it is puttyed.
The final stage of preparation is priming the surface for pasting with tapestries.

Materials and tools

To perform the preparatory work, the finisher, regardless of whether he is a beginner or an experienced builder, must have various instruments and fixtures. Their set is dictated by the type of coating to be removed: tapestries, paint or plaster; wall type:

brick;
concrete;
wooden;
drywall, etc.

The owner of a house or apartment who performs repairs on his own needs tools and materials for a specific situation, and therefore there is no need to provide a general list of everything that will be needed during the repair.

To easily navigate necessary materials and tools, their the list will be given before the description of each type of work. The only thing you need to always have at hand is a ladder or a portable platform (goats). Therefore, this device will no longer be mentioned.

Preparatory work

Preparing walls for wallpaper will have the following workflow:

free the walls from the old finish and, if necessary, from the plaster;
to repair cracks, chips, to carry out the jointing of masonry joints for plaster;
level the wall surface with plaster or drywall;
apply a primer for pasting.

Wall cleaning

Preparing walls for wallpapering with your own hands begins with cleaning the walls of old wallpaper, paint or plaster. At the same time, each type of technological operations has its own correct techniques and methods. Let's consider them in more detail.

Wallpaper

How to remove old wallpaper? For this you need:

1. Free the walls from furniture - take it to the next room or move it to the center of the room and cover it with polyethylene film.

2. Turn off the electricity in the room being repaired, remove the sockets and switches.

3. Collect necessary tools and fixtures:

paint roller (can be used), sponge or rags;
a set of spatulas;
knife (kitchen or construction);
bucket for hot water;
"wallpaper tiger";
metal brush;
iron;
a piece of cloth (old T-shirt, towel);
garbage bags;
individual protection means.

4. Buy more if not at home:

laundry soap - a quarter of a piece ground into shavings (into a bucket of warm water) will speed up the process of removing the wallpaper;
fabric softener - one cap of the product will give an effect similar to ¼ bar of soap;
table vinegar (9%) - 5 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of hot water will help you quickly and easily clean the walls of old tapestries;
wallpaper glue MK - diluted to the consistency of kefir (5 times more water than indicated on the package) quickly softens the wallpaper, indispensable when removing wallpaper from drywall;
special compositions - can be bought in liquid or dry form, allow you to remove all types and types of wallpaper from the walls, regardless of the type of glue with which they were glued (see photo).

The methods of removing tapestries are influenced, first of all, by the type of glue and the type of wallpaper: paper, non-woven or vinyl. For example, for modified starch (MK) glue, warm or hot water is always used, but one method is used for paper wallpaper, and another for interlining and vinyl. If you know the little secrets, the work will not drag on for a long time.

How to quickly remove old wallpaper from the wall glued with MK glue? For tapestries that have hung on the wall for more than 8 years, the procedure is very simple. Sections of wallpaper that have lagged behind the wall are cut with a knife. A narrow spatula is inserted into the formed cracks.

Very slowly, the wallpaper sheet stretches towards itself - with a quick movement, the paper will tear from old age. The tapestries remaining on the wall are scraped off with a knife or spatula blade. The process can be accelerated if such sections of the wall are moistened with heated water and given time (about 20 minutes) for the paper and glue to soften.

How to withdraw paper wallpaper from the walls with a short period of their operation? If the tapestries have been hanging for less than 4 years, they are moistened with warm water. For these purposes, a roller or sponge is suitable.

Usually, work is carried out not along the entire wall, but with several canvases. After soaking 4-5 wallpaper sheets, they are “forgotten” for 20 minutes. This is enough for the glue (due to starch, it quickly becomes liquid) and paper soaked with water. After that, the wallpaper is removed with a spatula and a knife.

However, this procedure is not completely suitable for vinyl trellises - the top layer of wallpaper does not allow moisture to pass through. Then how to quickly remove vinyl wallpaper from the wall? There are two ways here.

Pick up the vinyl layer with a knife and tear it off the paper base. Then proceed in the same way as with paper wallpaper - warm water, a spatula and a knife.
Use a knife to make cuts on the trellis (you can use the "wallpaper tiger") and moisten them. Penetrating under vinyl film, water wets the glue and paper, after which the wallpaper easily lags behind.

There are some peculiarities in removing wallpaper from drywall. Here, the wetting process is completely eliminated - water will not only soften the glue and tapestries, but also damage the gypsum. In this case, liquid wallpaper glue will help.

It is diluted with a large amount of water (4-5 times more than indicated in the instructions) and the tapestries are smeared. Wetting the paper web and the glue with which the tapestries were glued, such a composition is not able to completely saturate the GKL cardboard with water. You can remove the sheets with a spatula and a knife in 20-30 minutes. Such methods are not suitable for PVA, MC and CMC glue.

How to quickly remove wallpaper from the walls glued with modern high-quality types of glue and PVA glue? With PVA glue, the most problems. It is necessary to remove it in two stages: first the wallpaper, then the glue itself.

Water-permeable trellises treated with hot soapy water. To do this, a piece of laundry soap is crushed, diluted in 4 liters of water and brought to a boil and immediately applied with a roller to the wall. After 15-20 minutes, the tapestries can be removed without problems.

They do not process the entire wall, but part of it. After removing the wet wallpaper, the remaining glue is scraped off with a spatula or a metal brush, the wall is washed out. Then the solution is heated and work continues in the same order.

For water-repellent wallpaper make a solution with fabric softener. For single-layer tapestries, 0.3 liters of air conditioner per bucket of water is enough; for two-layer tapestries, twice as much detergent is poured into the water.

The instruction is simple:

about 2 m 2 of wallpaper is soaked;
after 10 minutes, the next 2 m 2 of the wall is wetted;
after 20 minutes, the wallpaper is removed in the place where the priority soaking was carried out;
adhesive residues are scraped off with a metal brush;
the next section is wetted (2 m 2), etc.

MC and CMC glue is destroyed either during steaming or when treated with special washes.

Professional builders use a steam generator or steam cleaner, but not every home has one. An iron and a linen towel will come to the rescue (any natural fabric without synthetic additives).

The technology is as follows:

the fabric is lowered into the water, then it is not twisted very much;
the iron warms up to the maximum temperature - here you need an extension cord to connect to electricity from another room;
a towel is applied to the wallpaper, and on it, pressing strongly, they iron it - 5-6 times;
from the stripped place, the trellises are scraped off with a spatula.

So the operation is repeated until the wallpaper is completely removed from the walls. The work is not fast, it takes a lot of time. But in practice the best option.

Special washes sold in the form of powder or jelly can speed up the work. Their manufacturers claim that the products are completely safe for the health of people living in the apartment. But, nevertheless, it is better to work with gloves.

The solution is prepared in accordance with the recommendation printed on the package. Apply to the wall with a roller. On waterproof tapestries, it is necessary to perforate with a knife or a “wallpaper tiger”. Washes need 2-3 hours to dissolve the adhesive mass, after which the wallpaper sheets themselves will lag behind the wall.

Liquid and photo wallpapers can be removed by any of the above methods, glass wall paper- only washes. When removing glass, there is little secret: it is necessary to remove one sheet at a time and be sure to pull it from top to bottom.

Dye

On a painted wall, it is impossible to carry out plastering work to level its surface or apply a simple putty - neither cement nor gypsum has adhesion to the paint. Therefore, it must be removed.

Attention: wall painting is not an obstacle for wallpapering. In many cases, it is allowed to stick tapestries directly onto the paint layer (see work "").

To clean the paint layer from the wall, you must have:

personal protective equipment;
blowtorch;
grinder;
axe;
various nozzles for a puncher or grinder;
putty knife;
chisel;
paint remover;
brush.

Using the tools listed above, the paint can be removed:

with the help of chemistry - special solutions (washes);
heating the surface of the walls - thermal method;
mechanically - the paint layer is removed with power tools.

chemical method is based on the ability of special chemical mixtures, for example, Prestige gel, Antikras washes, etc. to dissolve all types of paints. Wherein:

drugs are quite expensive;
only one layer is removed - with repeated staining, each layer will have to be dissolved separately;
a pungent odor lingers in the room for a long time;
the remains of washes should absolutely not be flushed down the toilet - special disposal is needed;
the worker must be dressed in a chemical protection suit;
upon completion of work, mandatory water procedures.

Conclusion: the method is effective, but it has a whole bunch of negative side effects, which is why it is better to refuse it.

The conclusion drawn refers to purchased washes. You can cook them yourself and not have these problems. A few recipes:

0.25 l of ammonia (10%) is poured into 1 liter cold water, add 2 kg of building chalk and mix thoroughly. The resulting mixture is evenly applied to the paint and after 2 hours they begin to remove it (the composition does not destroy the paint layer, but breaks its adhesion to the wall surface - it is removed in layers);
Mix to a state of thick sour cream 1.2 kg of quicklime and 0.4 kg of soda ash. Apply to the wall and let it soak through the paint. After half a day, the paint layer can be removed;
Apply a thin layer of liquid glass to the wall. After drying, the silicate film is removed, and the paint is removed along with it.

thermal method based on the ability of paint under the influence of high temperatures to go into a semi-amorphous state - when it is no longer solid, but also not liquid. Such a layer of paint is easy to remove with a spatula.

You can heat with a building hair dryer, a blowtorch, a simple iron through a newspaper, and even better - food foil. The method has been known for hundreds of years, tested and never failed. The only thing you need to be careful about using heat near electrical wiring, switches, sockets and other plastic items is that they can ignite or melt.

The method has one minus: when oil paint is heated, caustic substances are released into the air.

mechanical method removing paint from the base was born at the same time as it. The method is laborious, but not harmful to health, does not pose a fire hazard, allows the use of any available hand percussion instruments (trowel, ax, chisel, hammer) or power tools with various nozzles. Therefore, with its help, paint can be removed in the kitchen, in the nursery and in the bathroom.

How to remove paint from walls manually? Using a spatula, the paint is removed in places where there are cracks in the paint layer or swelling. Strongly holding paint is removed either with a chisel with a hammer or an ax.

The process can be mechanized and use power tools (drill, puncher) with special nozzles.

How to fix cracks

After removing plaster and old finishes, the walls are carefully inspected for chips, cracks, damaged masonry joints, etc. Identified defects require elimination, especially cracks.

Cracks in the wall - the scourge of new settlers in panel houses. Inhabited apartments suffer from this to a much lesser extent - even in the old "Khrushchev" they are rarely seen. Here is a simple explanation - cracks appear mainly due to shrinkage of the building. In any case, they must be sealed.

You can fix the crack yourself. This will require:

a set of spatulas;
brush;
sponge;
primer;
sandpaper;
putty;
fiberglass mesh (in some cases).

Attention: before starting work on repairing a crack, it is necessary to make sure that its growth has stopped. Otherwise, all the work will be in vain - you will have to redo it after a certain time.

Let's write the whole process step by step:

plaster 2-3 cm wide along the crack;
with a spatula, the gap expands, if necessary, you can use other tools (chisel, hatchet, chisel);
the edges of the wall near the gap are cleaned with sandpaper;
dirt and dust are removed from the recess and around it (this can be done with a vacuum cleaner or a brush);
the crack itself and its edges are primed (it is most convenient to perform such an operation with a sponge);
the gap is sealed with any putty (you can also use acrylic paint sealant);
after the repair mixture has dried in the wall gap, a sickle (a strip of fiberglass) is applied to the recess and closed with gypsum putty or the same repair compound that was used to close the crack;
with a wide spatula, the mixture is leveled with a thin layer;
the dried solution is ground manually or with a grinder (sandpaper with a grain of 100-150).

For information: the polymer putty is rubbed into the crack with a narrow spatula, acrylic sealant squeezed out of the tuba with a pneumatic gun.

Chips and irregularities are initially wetted with "cement milk" or a primer, then sealed with a special mortar designed for this purpose.

Potholes in the masonry mortar are deepened by 2.0-2.5 cm, followed by priming and sealing with a cement-sand mortar. The cement mixture can be replaced with a very effective polymer-based repair mortar. But everything depends on the price of the material - cement-sand mortar is much cheaper.

Before finishing the walls, they must be leveled. Stucco or drywall will come to the rescue. What exactly to choose will tell the material "". Let's consider both options.

Leveling by plastering

The most common option for leveling walls is to plaster with a mortar of cement and sand. In order for the mortar to hold well, you need a primer for the surface under the plaster.

How to prime walls

Plaster walls begin after applying a primer to them. This operation allows:

saturate the wall material with moisture, which will not allow it to take water from the plaster;
create a film with strong adhesion to the wall (the primer penetrates up to 1 cm deep into the material), which in turn provides good adhesion to the plaster;
increase the strength of the surface of the wall material - the soaked primer protects the wall from chips, the formation of small cracks, etc .;
bind dust particles that actively resist any joining processes.

The primer must be selected according to the material of the walls and the type of plaster. For example, primer for concrete and gypsum plaster not suitable for cement-sand plaster mortar.

The repaired wall is primed with a paint roller or brush in 2 layers. In this case, the next layer must be applied after the first one dries, although there are recommendations to apply the second layer after the first one after 10 hours. It is impossible to unequivocally evaluate such advice - there are no studies on this issue.

Wall plastering

The next stage of preparatory work is the setting of beacons. The operation is described in detail in the work "". Let us briefly recall the entire technological process.

At the upper corners of the wall at a distance of 10-15 cm from the adjacent wall and 20 cm from the ceiling, holes for dowels are drilled with a puncher or drill and self-tapping screws are wrapped in them - 2-3 cm of hardware is left above the surface.
A plumb line is hung on the head of each screw, and a hole is drilled for the second hardware at a height of 20 cm from the floor. After that, the heads of the hardware are brought into one plane (you need to screw or unscrew one of the screws with a screwdriver).
The surface of the wall is hung. To do this, a fishing line or twine is stretched between the screws horizontally and diagonally.
A building square along a stretched fishing line measures the distance from the wall surface to the plane formed by stretched fishing lines.
3 cm is added to the most curved point of the wall towards the room and a new plane is formed - the plane of the plaster.
Beacons guides are installed from the PS profile.

The process of plastering with cement-sand mortar is described in stages in the material "". The stages are:

from the spray;
soil;
coverings.

They are performed in strict sequence after the previous layer has dried.

splatter is made to create a good adhesion of the plaster mortar to the wall. Applied up to 5 mm thick. The solution must be prepared with a high content of a binder (cement, gypsum, lime) and be similar in consistency to liquid sour cream.

If it was decided not to prime the surface of the walls, then they are wetted with water so that the material of the walls does not take away some of the moisture from the solution and thereby violate the chemical process of the formation of cement (gypsum, lime) stone.

Professionals advise starting from the bottom left corner and going up between the beacon profiles. Having finished the first row, go to the second, etc.

The second layer, builders call it "primer", is applied after the spray has completely dried.- this is the plaster, leveling the wall layer of mortar. Its consistency should resemble bread dough. Thickness - about 2 cm. The work is carried out in the same order as the spray.

third layer the surface of the wall is leveled to an almost perfect state. Some specialists are able to perform this part of the operation at such a high level that it does not require a fine (finishing) finish - putty.

Plasterboard leveling

How to align the walls under the wallpaper "dry plaster", by which the builders understand drywall sheets, can be read in the materials "" and "".

The fastest, easiest and cheapest way to level walls with plasterboard is to use glue. But this option is available only with small, up to 3-4 cm, height differences on the surface of the walls. With greater curvature, it is imperative to arrange a crate.

With wall irregularities up to 4 mm, the adhesive is applied to the wall surface and the first sheet of drywall is strongly pressed against it. Subsequent sheets are applied to the surface of the wall, but are not pressed into the adhesive. With the help of a level and a rubber hammer, the GKL is brought into the same plane with the already glued sheets (they are pushed to the wall).

If the unevenness is significant, strips of plasterboard come to the rescue, which are glued to the wall, and only then drywall is attached to them. Surprisingly, there are often cases when apartment owners who do the work themselves use a lot of glue instead of strips. The result is the same - when the glue dries, it shrinks strongly and either breaks away from the plasterboard, or pulls the sheet along, as a result of which it bursts.

Primer before wallpaper

Modern wallpaper made from the most different materials. It is very difficult to choose an adhesive for the combination of wall material and the reverse side of the trellis. This will require more than a hundred types of adhesive mass.

Manufacturers of wallpaper and glue got out of this situation simply: they developed special primers that serve as an intermediate link between wallpaper glue and the material from which the wall is composed.

Therefore, you need to choose a primer for wallpaper under the surface of the wall (to different types glue it is already adapted). Apply a rough coat of primer with a roller, and in hard-to-reach places- with a brush. The second, finishing layer is applied after the first has dried.

For reinforced concrete, the first layer is applied with a diluted primer - it is necessary to saturate it with moisture as much as possible. Re-priming after complete drying of the already applied primer.

The priming of the walls under the wallpaper is discussed in detail in the material ""

The nuances of preparing the wall for various types of wallpaper

Wallpapers are heavy and light, dense and translucent. This makes some adjustments to the process of preparing the walls for sticking the tapestries.

Liquid wallpaper

Liquid wallpaper easily tolerates various uneven surfaces of the walls, but bright spots shine through well, look gray on a dark surface. Therefore, under them, the walls can not be putty, but painted white water-based paint if they are not light, sure.

Non-woven wallpaper

Light non-woven wallpaper can be glued on both old paper trellises and paint, which simplifies the entire process of wall preparation. The only thing that needs to be controlled is how well the previous finish adheres to the walls, and whether they are translucent bright colours(old wallpaper or wall painting) through the wallpaper. If in one of the cases the condition is not met, then there is a full cycle of preparing the walls for wallpapering.

Wall mural

The ability of photo wallpaper to emphasize the smallest convexity of the walls with simultaneous distortion of the pattern requires mandatory surface puttying, followed by grinding by hand or with a grinder.

Conclusion

Get a high-quality pasted wall without careful preparation when using it modern wallpaper problematic. It is necessary to complete the cycle of work:

remove the old finish;
repair walls;
level the surface with plaster or drywall sheets;
putty;
primer for wallpaper.

Some types of wallpaper require additional operations:

photo wallpaper - polishing putty;
liquid - painting the walls with white water-based paint.

How to putty walls

How to prepare the walls for wallpapering? The next step is to apply at least a small layer of putty. It is necessary to reduce surface roughness and increase the bonding area. Putty just smooths out all the bumps.

Tip: Finishing putty should be applied only in thin layers, otherwise large ones will crack when dry.

All irregularities are eliminated in several passes, sometimes up to five times, until the wall becomes even. After the solution dries, all defects are removed from the walls with an abrasive mesh: tubercles and sagging. Small protruding sagging after puttying can be removed with a spatula.

How to make the final primer

At the last stage of work, which involves preparing concrete walls for wallpaper, their primer is again applied.

Tip: When preparing walls for wallpapering, after each step, the surface should be primed.

What and how to do before wallpapering, how to process the walls to improve the quality, the video will tell in detail.

It’s even scary to remember all the subtleties of wallpapering that our parents had to deal with - as a rule, at that time the walls were decorated without prior preparation. The maximum that was done to improve the quality of wallpaper stickers was the preliminary “leveling” of the walls with newspapers, in this way the roughness of the plastered surfaces was reduced and premature peeling of the wallpaper was prevented. Today, the preparation of walls for wallpapering is almost of paramount importance - and no wonder, because a lot depends on this process, and first of all, how long such a wall covering will last. In this article, together with the site stroisovety.org, we will study in detail the technology of preparing walls for pasting them with wallpaper and learn how to do it with our own hands.

how to prepare walls for wallpaper photo

How to prepare walls for wallpaper photo

Preparing walls for wallpapering: four reasons why you need to do it

There are a lot of reasons not to ignore the process of preparing walls for wallpaper - listing them all is simply unrealistic. The main ones are the following.

Firstly, this is the most important thing - the quality of gluing the canvases. It has already been said above that the porous surface is simply not able to hold the wallpaper on itself for a long time. The reason for this is simple - where there is time, the base of the wallpaper is not glued to the wall. As a result, only 50 percent of the canvases are glued - this is easy to verify when faced with the dismantling of wallpaper glued to an unprepared wall. They are removed, as if by a wave magic wand. By the way, for the same reason, already during the first month, the seams between the individual strips of wallpaper begin to open. It should be remembered that earlier almost all wallpapers were glued with an overlap - it turned out that one strip held the other, but now they are glued joint to joint.

wall preparation before wallpapering

Wall preparation before wallpapering

Secondly, it is the unevenness of the walls. If one of you thinks that they will hide under the wallpaper, I hasten to assure you of the opposite - even the most dense and thick wallpaper is not able to hide bumps and pits. It's all about lighting - even if such flaws are not visible when the chandelier is on, they will definitely appear in daylight. Or vice versa, here how the card will fall.

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priming walls before wallpapering

Priming walls before wallpapering

Fourthly, adhesion (the ability of materials to combine with foreign substances), simply put, this property of materials is fully responsible for the duration of the wallpaper on the walls.

These reasons are quite enough so that the preparation of walls for wallpaper is not ignored. Many, of course, can argue with these arguments and oppose them with their arguments, they say, all the same, the wallpaper is re-pasted every 3-5 years. I will answer simply - that's why they are re-glued, because the preparation of the walls for wallpapering has not been completed. In addition, the wallpaper itself does not differ in quality and quickly falls into decay. Expensive wallpapers with proper gluing can last at least ten years or until they get bored.

Preparing walls for wallpapering

Preparing walls for wallpapering photo

How to prepare walls for wallpaper: work sequence

We will not beat around the bush, but consider how the walls are prepared before wallpapering, as they say, point by point.

Wall primer. This operation is necessary for three reasons.

Firstly, a deep penetration primer penetrates the wall and holds its surface layer together, thereby preventing small particles of plaster or concrete from peeling off.

Secondly, the primer composition deprives the wall of the ability to intensively absorb moisture, thereby increasing the drying time of subsequently applied putties, which affects the quality of the coating. It should be understood that the rapid drying of all mortars does not lead to anything good - at least the surface will crack.

Thirdly, the primer simply removes dust - and, as you know, nothing sticks to it. The primer is applied with a large brush or brush - it must be rubbed into the surface until a white foam is obtained. Before moving on to the next step, which involves preparing the walls for wallpapering, you need to wait for the walls to dry completely.

why prime the walls

Why prime the walls

Sealing of cracks and potholes. You should not hope that the subsequent puttying of the walls will solve the problem with cracks and potholes - it will hide them superficially, and these defects will certainly return in the very near future. The crack must be enlarged to about a centimeter width, after which they should be opened with a primer and sealed with cement mortar, and better with glue for tiles.

It should be understood that cracks in the plaster do not just appear - this is a sure sign that in this place the plaster has lagged behind the base of the wall. You may have to work hard with a hammer and remove the falling plaster. This is where problems can arise - old plaster can crumble in large pieces, and then preparing the walls for wallpapering will result in a major overhaul, which involves leveling the walls with plaster again.

But let's get back to our wallpaper, or rather, to preparing the base for gluing it - we wait for the repaired areas to dry completely, prime them again with high quality and proceed to the next stage of work.

patching cracks before wallpapering

Sealing cracks before wallpapering photo

Wall putty. You can’t do without it - you will have to apply at least a thin layer of putty on the walls. And the point here is not at all the leveling of the surface, although this factor is also important. Puttying is necessary mainly in order to reduce the surface roughness and increase its bonding area.

Ideally, of course, it is necessary to level the walls, but in most cases this is practically unattainable for non-professionals, so the task is set as follows - with the help of putty, you just need to smooth out all the bumps. It should be understood that the finishing putty is applied only in thin layers, since large ones will crack as they dry.

Irregularities are eliminated in several passes - to make the wall even, professional plasterers sometimes have to putty the wall three, four, or even five times. After the putty has completely dried, all flaws in the form of tubercles and sagging are mechanically removed from the surface of the walls - an abrasive mesh is used for this purpose. In principle, it is possible to remove small protruding putty deposits with a spatula.

do-it-yourself wall preparation for wallpaper photo

Preparing walls for wallpaper with your own hands photo

Well, the last stage of work, which involves the preparation of concrete walls for wallpaper, is again their primer. I want to note that in order to achieve high quality of any work related to gluing, puttying, plastering and other similar works, a primer is almost always performed. To exaggerate, it looks like this - took a step, primed, took the second step, primed again, etc.

Each layer of the cake applied to the wall must be primed without fail. The same applies to painted surfaces, which are quite common in old apartments - only in this case you need to use a primer called "betonokontakt" or the like.

preparation of concrete walls for wallpaper primer

Preparation of concrete walls for wallpaper: primer

That seems to be all - after priming the putty walls, which reduces their ability to quickly absorb glue and removes dust residues, you can proceed to the direct wallpapering, but first, of course, you must wait for the primer to dry completely. Preparing the walls for wallpapering ensures that the new coating will not only have an attractive appearance, but will also serve you for a long time.

Preparing the wall for wallpapering step-by-step instruction

Almost every person is sure that gluing wallpaper is quite simple and there is nothing complicated in this process. At first glance, wallpapering is really simple, but at the same time, the procedure has a lot of important nuances and takes a lot of time and patience.

Incredible milestone while wallpapering proper preparation walls for a future procedure. This moment is generally considered to be the most important, because if it is done incorrectly, then soon enough you will need to think about a new repair and another wallpapering.

Before you prepare the walls for wallpapering, you need to know the main steps, because, otherwise, you will have to spend not only your money, but also a lot of time and your own strength one or more times. It is worth noting that, in fact, step-by-step instructions for preparing the walls and directly wallpapering the wallpaper are a simple process and anyone can handle it on their own. You just need to understand the technology and study it in detail, and the added video materials on our website will help you prepare the walls for wallpapering with your own hands in the shortest possible time.

Getting rid of old wallpaper

Before you prepare the walls for wallpapering, it is imperative to remove the previous finish from the walls, which can ruin all your work quite badly. In some situations, this step can be very difficult to complete, but you need to make every effort to remove the old finish. If you skip this stage of work, then there is no point in continuing it. In order to be able to remove the old wallpaper, you first need to make it as soft as possible.

If earlier there were ordinary paper wallpapers on the walls, then they must first be wetted with a special soapy solution. You can add a small amount of wallpaper glue to its composition so that the solution itself stays on the walls longer and can make the old wallpaper softer.

If you need to eliminate thick wallpaper or a washable type, then make cuts or at least scratches before applying the solution. This will allow the soap and water to get inside the wallpaper and do its job. When the wallpaper becomes soft, you can begin to remove it. To do this, use a regular metal spatula. If the first time it was not possible to completely eliminate the wallpaper, then repeat the procedure again. There will definitely be those places where the wallpaper will remain in place. To remove them, wet a cloth well and iron the wallpaper through this cloth.

Preparing walls for wallpapering step-by-step instructions: how to remove old wallpaper from walls with your own hands video

Two-layer vinyl type wallpaper is quite difficult to remove. First, make horizontal cuts along the wallpaper, and then begin to gradually remove them, starting from the wallpaper layer that is at the top. You can not remove the paper layer and leave it as a basis for future new wallpapers, but with one condition: this layer must hold very well.

We clean the walls from old paint

Sometimes it becomes necessary to remove not a layer of wallpaper, but paint. If the layer is sufficiently dense, then a spatula can be used to remove it. If the layer is thin, then it is easier to remove it - you can simply wash it off. To do this, make a soap solution and wet the walls very well. If you do not complete this stage of work and leave the paint in place, then expect that after a short period of time, the new wallpaper will lag behind the walls along with the old layer of paint and the whole job will be done in vain.

Preparing the wall for gluing: how to clean the walls of old paint with your own hands

If the walls were painted with enamel paint, then a special wash must be used to remove it. Apply this liquid to the walls with a brush and leave for a while so that it can be completely absorbed into old paint. Then you can start removing the paint, you can do this with a spatula. If the paint cannot be removed the first time, then you need to apply another layer of wash and wait a while. It should be noted that during this work you need to use rubber gloves, because the chemicals from the wash can damage the skin of the hands quite badly.

Do walls need to be primed before wallpapering?

Imagine that you have already finished making repairs, pasted beautiful and expensive wallpapers, finished finishing work. After a while, the brand new wallpaper begins to flake off. This will be the very first and fairly clear answer to whether the walls need to be primed before starting work.

Of course, you need to remember that even if you learn the main steps of the step-by-step instructions for preparing the walls for wallpapering and do everything right, this still does not give a full guarantee that the wallpaper will not peel off. In this matter, you must also take into account the quality of the glue, and how the wallpaper was pasted and a large number of other nuances.

Why prime the walls before wallpapering

There are several reasons why it is imperative to carry out the priming of the walls. The main reasons include the following:

How to prime the walls before wallpapering

This question is quite simple and the answer is the same. For priming, you need to use a special priming adhesive. To date, this material is considered to be quite primitive and is rarely used. Most often, the material for the primer is chosen depending on the type of surface on which you are going to glue the wallpaper.

Before proceeding with the priming process, you need to read very carefully step by step instructions on preparing walls for wallpapering, in order to understand how the material can be exploited. Experts often recommend using a special acrylic composition. This primer is made of latex and acrylic, which allows you to get the maximum level of adhesion. The material is applied in several stages, as a base and then, if necessary. This material is perfect as a basis for a wide variety of wallpapers.

If the walls are wooden, then you can use an alkyd primer. This material was created specifically in order to be able to glue wallpaper on a tree. One layer of this type of impregnation can dry for 15 hours.

Modern glyptal primers have also proven themselves well. This material is used for processing wooden walls, and metal. At the same time, one important point must be remembered: such a primer can only be applied in those rooms where the level of humidity is low.

How to prime the walls with your own hands video

In order to properly prepare the walls for wallpapering, do not skimp on the materials. Specialists can perform their work very high quality, but poor quality and inappropriate construction and expendable materials can spoil the entire final result of the completed construction and repair work, including wallpapering.

How to putty the walls under the wallpaper

There are a few important rules to follow when priming walls before wallpapering. The material must be applied without fail only with a thin layer and the wall, and then smeared with a fairly wide spatula.

When the primer is completely dry, it is necessary to sand the walls. To do this, use a fine skin. As practice shows, in order to be able to glue the wallpaper - just one layer of putty is enough.

Preparing walls for wallpapering with your own hands step by step video

In some cases, when there are, for example, irregularities on the wall or other defects, several layers of primer must be applied. Sometimes it is enough to additionally apply a small amount of material in only one place.

What to do if the walls are completely crooked

Quite often you can find situations where the room has uneven walls. Then almost all finishing materials will not fit perfectly, which will lead to noticeable defects. Curved walls need to be prepared for wallpapering in exactly the same way as smooth ones. That's just to perform each stage of preparation must be more carefully.

Preparation of uneven walls: how to properly putty and primer walls video

When preparatory work are finished, carefully inspect the room, you may have missed some section of the wall and did not remove the defect. This will make already crooked walls even more crooked and ugly. Accordingly, the result of the work may not be exactly what you expect to see.

Particular attention in this situation should be paid precisely to the choice of wallpaper. If the walls are very crooked, then it is better to buy vinyl wallpaper or non-woven. Due to their density, layering and embossing, they may well hide at least partially some defects. For these wallpapers, buy only special glue, this will allow you to do the job efficiently, and then the wallpaper will not move away from the walls. At the same time, experts recommend applying glue both to the walls and to the wallpaper in order to get the maximum positive result.

Due to the fact that the wallpaper must be glued end-to-end, use a level to glue the wallpaper of the first canvas. If the ceiling is uneven in the room, then do not panic. Via ceiling plinth it will be possible to hide these irregularities and other defects to some extent.

If uneven walls annoy you very much, then you can completely align them. There are several ways to do this, but each of them will reduce the size of the room to some extent.

Before you prepare the walls for wallpapering, carefully study all the steps before starting work, because this process simple at first glance.

Do-it-yourself wall plastering video

If you do not comply simple rules and the procedure for preparing the wall for wallpapering according to step-by-step instructions, then all your work will not bring any result and after a while you will need to repeat everything again. You will have to glue the wallpaper until you have done all the preparatory work correctly.

Preparing walls for wallpapering: do it yourself

Wall preparation for wallpaper

Features of preparing surfaces for wallpaper

Tip: Despite the fact that many consider it right to re-paste wallpaper after 3 - 5 years, due to a change in their appearance, this is not entirely true. Expensive materials, when properly glued, last at least ten years or until they get bored.

The main requirements for walls when applying wallpaper are:

Tip: If the walls are not processed before wallpapering, in unprepared uneven places, over time, any materials begin to tear, deteriorate or wear out. This requires a smooth and clean wall. This rule should be observed on concrete bases in the hallway or plasterboard walls in a small children's room.

Most wallpaper sheets are unable to hide even very small defects.
A mandatory requirement for the surface is dryness, good cleanliness and impregnation of the wall with a primer.

The abbreviated instruction for preparing the walls looks like this:

How to remove old wallpaper

Cleaning walls from old wallpaper

Before preparing the walls for wallpapering, the old coating is removed.

To do this, you will need to purchase:

Putty knife.
Good quality roller.
Liquid dispenser.
Water and other aids that will ensure the quick removal of old canvases.
A stepladder or a special construction bar for convenient and quick work in hard-to-reach places.

Advice: Before starting work, precautions should be taken: turn off the voltage in the power supply of the working room, put on overalls.

In the areas where panels join, the quality of their adhesion to the wall is the lowest. It is from these places that you need to start tearing off the canvases, without the use of auxiliary means.
Not removed parts of old wallpaper are abundantly wetted with a roller or sprayer with hot water.
The surface is carefully cleaned with a spatula, everything that is easy to remove is removed from it.

Tip: To speed up the process of removing wallpaper, add vinegar or another adhesive solvent to the water. You can use special chemical compounds that are designed to remove previously pasted wallpaper from the walls. But their price is quite high and such a purchase is not always justified.

Before preparing the wall for wallpapering, the old canvases must be completely removed.

How to remove old paint

Cleaning the wall from paint

Removing the paint yourself from the wall is quite simple.

With minimal effort, this can be done in several ways:

The paint is pre-dried using a building hair dryer, then it is easily removed with a conventional spatula. The method is quite effective, but harmful. This requires constant circulation of fresh air in the room. Due to the heating of the paint, the release of toxic substances hazardous to health begins, they cannot be breathed for a long time.
Walls can be cleaned with a grinder or grinder.

Tip: This method is very dusty, it should not be used by people who suffer from asthma. During work, all adjacent doors to other rooms should be tightly closed, and the windows should be left open.

The use of a flush mixture is the most effective option. The disadvantage of this method is that when working with chemicals, you must carefully follow all precautions and carefully follow the advice of the manufacturer's instructions.

How to prime walls

Wall priming is performed in order to:

To prevent the peeling of small particles of plaster or concrete, penetrating deep into the thickness of the wall and fasten its surface layer.
The primer composition (see Types of building primers and their scope) increases the drying period of subsequent layers of putty, depriving the wall of the ability to quickly absorb moisture, which improves the quality of the coating.

Tip: With the rapid drying of any mortar, nothing good will come of it, the minimum defect is the formation of cracks on the surface.

Applying a primer removes dust. Apply the solution with a large brush or brush. The composition should be rubbed into the surface, as it were, until a white foam is obtained.

The next step, how to prepare a wall for wallpapering, should be carried out after the final drying of the walls.

Material application procedure:

The primer solution is applied to the entire surface with a roller, as shown in the photo, evenly. Hard-to-reach places should be treated with a brush.
With the rapid absorption of the composition into the wall, several more layers are applied additionally.
After the primer dries, a rough leveling of the surface is performed.

How to repair potholes and cracks

Puttying the walls will hide cracks and potholes only superficially, and such defects can quickly appear again.

When filling cracks:

They need to be increased to about one centimeter wide.
Open these places with a primer.
Seal everything with cement mortar or glue used for tiles, which is much better.

Tip: When shedding old plaster in large pieces, a major overhaul will be needed, which involves leveling the walls with mortar a second time.

After the areas have completely dried, they are primed with high quality and you can proceed to the next stage of surface preparation.

The stage of sealing cracks on the wall

How to putty walls

Tip: Finishing putty should be applied only in thin layers, otherwise large ones will crack when dry.

How to make the final primer

Final priming of the wall

At the last stage of work, which involves preparing concrete walls for wallpaper, their primer is again applied.

Tip: When preparing walls for wallpapering, after each step, the surface should be primed.

What and how to do before wallpapering, how to process the walls to improve the quality, the video will tell in detail.

Graduated from the Faculty of Architecture of the Penza State Institute of Architecture and Construction. Over the past ten years, he has been a leading specialist in a large construction company in the city of Penza, which is engaged in the construction of multi-storey residential buildings. The total work experience in the specialty is 18 years. Advise on design, selection of materials for interior and exterior finish, technology of finishing works.

Instructions for preparing walls for wallpapering

Before you start wallpapering, it is necessary to carry out preliminary preparation. Many people know that you need to pre-prepare the wall, but few people understand the real meaning of this. What should be the sequence of actions during the pre-treatment of walls for wallpaper? What are the subtleties in the preparatory process?

What qualities should a wall have so that the wallpaper sticks well and lasts a long time?

Preparing walls for wallpapering is recognized by many very important point. Otherwise, after a few years, there will be a deterioration in the appearance of the finish and thoughts of a new repair will begin to come to mind. Plus, it’s wrong to prepare the walls for wallpapering - this is not only additional financial resources but also a waste of time and effort.

Grouting joints and puttying wall irregularities before wallpapering

In most cases, the wall can hardly be called an ideal surface for repairs: it has visible bumps, glue residue from past wallpapering, protruding fittings and additional flaws. What's left to do? For the result to be worthwhile, additional preparation of the wall surface should be carried out before gluing the wallpaper with your own hands. This will make it possible to make the surface perfectly flat and suitable for wallpapering.

Tools and materials

The process of preparing the walls does not require any special skills, but to bring them to an ideal state, you still cannot do without a building tool. It is not particularly varied, but is required. It includes:

various types of spatulas necessary for removing the old coating and applying putty;
a brush needed for applying glue and priming in places that are hard to reach for a roller;
a sponge for wetting and smoothing, as well as a rubber roller for wallpapering;
screwdrivers designed to dismantle all kinds of wall items, which may include wall shelves, lamps, sockets, etc.;
a mount or nail puller necessary for removing skirting boards and other decorative elements;
sandpaper, the purpose of which is to grind the surface;
plastic and metal buckets, rags, rags.

Preliminary work

Preparing the walls for wallpapering is much more difficult than, in itself, finishing the wall: therefore, close attention is paid to the repair of the walls. The main task is to ensure that the preparation of the wall surface is correct before you start gluing the wallpaper.

Dismantling wall cabinets, skirting boards, sockets, switches

Because the walls modern room it is difficult to imagine an absolutely empty one: without electrical appliances, shelves, sockets, etc. then before carrying out work related to wallpapering, they must be completely freed from all unnecessary. First of all, you need to disconnect the room from the electricity supply, after which you need to check all the switches and sockets for a lack of power.

Advice: Remove protruding parts from sockets and switches, and to prevent moisture from getting into the slots, cover them, for example, with masking tape.

Dismantling old wooden skirting boards with a chisel and hammer

Removing old wallpapers

To remove the old coating, it must first be softened. Great importance they also have the types of wallpaper that you plan to glue.

If there were paper wallpapers on the walls in the room, then it is enough to soften them with soapy water, to which you can add a small amount of wallpaper glue. This should be done so that the liquid becomes thicker and lingers on the surface of the wall. On washable wallpaper, it is desirable to make cuts so that the solution can penetrate to the base through a dense layer of material.

Wetting the wall with a roller to soak and easily remove old wallpaper.

After soaking, they must be removed using a metal spatula. If the old coating is not completely removed, then the procedure should be repeated. In places where cleaning is difficult, you can use an ordinary iron by ironing the difficult area through a damp cloth.

In the case of vinyl wallpaper, the process is a little more complicated. They need to make cuts, after which you can begin to remove the top layer of vinyl wallpaper. The bottom paper layer of vinyl wallpaper that remains can be used as a base for future wallpaper, but only if it is firmly held.

Removing old paint

Removing old paint during the repair process should not be difficult.

With minimal cost, this can be done in several ways:

The paint, which is the main coating of the wall, is pre-dried using a standard building hair dryer, and then it is easily removed with an ordinary spatula. The method is effective, but at the same time harmful. This requires the presence in the repaired room of permanent circulation of fresh air. Due to the heating of the paint, toxic substances dangerous to human health are released, which are not recommended to be inhaled for a long time;
To clean the surface, you can use a grinder or grinder.

Removing oil paint from the walls with a grinder and a nozzle in the form of a round metal brush.

If the surface is applied Oil paint or enamel, then you should use sandpaper to remove it. The water emulsion can be easily removed with a spatula, previously moistened with soapy water.

Removing crumbling plaster and whitewash

The layer of plaster after removing the wallpaper needs a special assessment. You should make sure that there are no serious cracks on the old plaster and that it does not crumble. In order to make sure of the integrity of the plaster, the wall is tapped - if there are “voiced” places, it means that the plaster has moved away from the base, which means it is crumbling. Small lagging plaster layers are beaten off and sealed with new plaster. If the damage is on a large surface, then it is better to knock down the plaster completely and re-plaster it.

Whitewash is also washed off without any problems. It is removed with a regular sponge and hot water. The only thing you need is to change the water in the bucket more often.

The procedure for preparing the surface for wallpapering

The first stage involves applying a spray to the walls, which should have a thickness of 3-9 millimeters. Such a layer is similar in consistency to thick sour cream, it can fill all the roughness and irregularities, it seamlessly lies on the surface of the wall. Depending on the composition of the spray, the plaster may normally adhere to the wall, or fall off the surface after a while.

The second stage is priming and puttying the walls. The thickness of the primer layer is usually 5-6 millimeters, in case of special need, several layers of it are gradually applied to the wall.

Applying the first coat of plaster to the wall using a long rule.

The third stage consists in applying the last layer of plaster to the wall surface, the thickness of which is 2-4 millimeters. The meaning of such actions is the formation of a thin film on the surface of the soil, which after a while is carefully rubbed off.

The fourth stage involves the alignment procedure using sandpaper.

Crack repair

After the preparatory processes new finish and removing old wallpaper should achieve the most even surface of the walls.

The crack repair process includes:

increasing their width up to 1 cm;
opening these places with a primer;
sealing them with cement mortar or glue used for ordinary tiles.

Wall puttying

After that, they move on to puttying. With special care, it is necessary to putty those areas where metal fittings are visible in order to avoid the appearance of rust spots on the wallpaper in the future. It is worth knowing that it will be better to apply putty in two layers - one in a vertical one. and the other in a horizontal direction, this will get away from the visible stripes formed by the spatula. You can also apply special strokes diagonally - each new one will look like an overlap overlay.

In order for the putty to be applied as conveniently as possible and the coating to become better, it is recommended to use a spatula with a width of about 30-40 cm, and the holding angle with respect to the wall should be 25-30 degrees.

For puttying corners, an angled spatula is usually used, which makes it possible to quickly and easily process corner surfaces.

wall sanding

After the putty layer has dried, it is recommended to start grinding the walls, for which sandpaper or a sanding grid is used. To start the grinding procedure, you need to use a bar, on which a grinding mesh or sandpaper is attached using special clamps.

Finishing sanding the walls with sandpaper before priming.

It must be remembered that grinding is quite a dusty job, during which you should use various personal protective equipment against dust. It is best to grind from corner to corner. Grinding should be in the direction of left-right and up-down. In the place where the wall has become smooth, there is no need to grind more. This is due to the fact that with too much zeal during grinding, all the putty can be rubbed off. After making sure that part of the surface is polished, you can move on to another area.

Applying primer under wallpaper

The last step is to apply a primer to the walls under the wallpaper. The modern market offers a wide range of various primers. Primers are selected based on the condition of the walls and their characteristics. The following types of primers can be distinguished: acrylic, alkyd, mineral, deep penetration and with coloring pigments. Acrylic primer is the most common today. You can figure out which primer suits you best, acrylic or alkyd, by looking at the label, or by consulting the seller.

Applying a primer to the walls is not a particularly difficult task - even a novice amateur can do it. To apply the primer, you need to use a wide roller, brush or special sprayer. It is also possible to use a telescopic rod to which a roller or brush is attached. In this way, you can avoid the constant movement of the stepladder, as well as gain access to the primer walls in hard-to-reach places. The primer is produced in dry or diluted form. When buying a dry primer, you need to use the instructions that come with it.

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Wallpapering is the most affordable and popular type of cosmetic finish that does not require special vocational training in the construction profession. Probably every apartment owner has ever done this on their own. However, as in any other work, the quality of the finishing result depends on the correct implementation of all technological stages of repair. One of the key stages affecting the result of the work is the preliminary preparation of the walls.

Although you want to quickly start gluing the purchased wallpaper, you can not neglect the preparation of the walls, on which the quality and durability of the result of the work largely depends. After all, expensive multilayer washable wallpapers with high-quality gluing can last at least 10 years. The process of preparing walls for gluing includes dismantling the old finish coating, cleaning and repairing cracks and other defects, leveling the surface, puttying, sanding and priming the walls. The better all these works are done, the stronger and better the final result of the finish will look.

Dismantling of the old coating

Even if the old coating looks strong and even, you should not give in to the temptation to make your work easier and stick new wallpaper on top of it. It should be completely removed from the walls, since over time, delamination and swelling have formed under it, which will only increase over time and adversely affect the appearance and service life of the new finish. Existing defects in the old finish may not be noticeable at first glance, but all of them will be identified during its dismantling.

How to quickly remove old wallpapers

Ordinary paper wallpapers easily peel off the wall if they are pre-moistened with soapy water and a little wallpaper paste. Remains of adhering paper base can be removed with a spatula.
So that moisture can wet the washable wallpaper, you must first make cuts on them with a clerical knife or make holes with a special spiked roller. After the wallpaper has soaked, which can be seen by the darkening of its appearance, it can be easily removed using a spatula. Places where the connection is particularly strong can be ironed with a hot iron through a heavily dampened cloth.
Multilayer vinyl wallpapers are removed in two steps. First, horizontal cuts are made on the wallpaper, and the outer layer is removed, and then the bottom layer is removed. paper base in the manner indicated above.

Video: MASTER CLASS: How to properly prepare the walls for wallpapering

How to remove paintwork

If the walls are covered with oil or enamel paint, then, depending on the strength of the coating, the following removal methods can be used:

Tap the area to be cleaned with a hammer, trying to peel off the paint from the plaster, and scrape the entire wall off with a spatula. paintwork.
If the paint does not move away from the wall, then you can use a building hair dryer, which should heat the paint layer. Paint softened by hot air should be removed with a spatula.
Sanding the surface with coarse-grained sandpaper using a special attachment for a drill, grinder or grinder.
Washing off paint with a chemical solvent.

Removing the paintwork requires perseverance, using several of the listed methods to achieve the ultimate goal. Since the procedure is associated with the selection a large number dust and harmful chemical substances, then it is necessary to use respirators or other means of respiratory protection. If the walls are covered with lime whitewash or water-based paint, they can be removed by washing off with ordinary hot water and wiping the surface with a hard sponge.

Elimination of wall defects

After removing the old coating, you need to check the condition of the plaster. Existing cracks need to be expanded and cut so that there are no flaking areas left. It is useful to tap the plaster over the entire area in order to identify hidden defects. In those places where it has moved away from concrete or brick, the echo will be more sonorous. In such places, the old plaster must be removed to the ground and put a new layer. It is not uncommon for old plaster to be removed completely and the wall to be re-plastered.

Full plastering is also carried out in cases where the apartment is purchased in a new building for self-finishing. To obtain a perfectly flat wall surface, you should use its alignment with beacons - long metal profiles installed vertically along the entire height of the wall with a gap less than the length of the rule by 10 cm. The installation of beacons must be started from the corners, since it is important not only to achieve a flat surface, but also to maintain perpendicularity between the surfaces of adjacent walls.

Video: Preparing uneven walls

How to quickly install beacons

Stepping back from the corner of 10 cm, apply vertical markings on the wall, using a plumb line, to the locations of the beacons-profiles.
At the corners, tighten 4 main screws using a level and a plumb line, setting the wall alignment plane. Their hats should lie in the same plane, which should be located as close as possible to the surface of the wall, but nowhere in contact with it. Pull the horizontal and vertical threads between the screws at the level of their heads. Significant savings in time and effort will be provided by the use of a household laser level, the horizontal and vertical beams of which allow you to quickly determine the minimum installation height of the beacons, taking into account all the protrusions and depressions of the wall surface.
If the room has a rectangular geometry, then a right angle should be set between the horizontal threads of two adjacent walls.
For each marking line, tighten 45mm screws in increments of 30-35cm, aligning the height of their caps at the same level along a plumb line or laser beam. Align the level of the intermediate upper screws according to the tensioned thread.
Install plastic mounts for beacons on all screws, and then alternately fix beacons-profiles vertically on them, which are held on the latches of the mounts.

Applying plaster

If the thickness of the plaster layer to be laid is more than 10-15 mm, then the laying should be carried out in two stages. First, a solution is thrown over and the deepest places are leveled so that their height does not reach the plane of the lighthouses by 5-10 mm. The second layer of plaster is superimposed on the first after it dries. In this case, the solution is applied to the wall with a slight excess so that it can be leveled with a rule in the space between the beacons.

Alignment is carried out alternately from bottom to top and top to bottom, in which the rule is tightly pressed with its ends to the beacons and moves along them in a zigzag manner with light wiggles to the right and left. After each pass, excess mortar is scraped off the rule. The procedure is repeated until the excess solution is displaced. Aligning the corners is done using a corner trowel.

At the end of the work, you need to allow the plaster to harden a little, and then you can remove the profiles. You can not leave them, because over time they will rust and stain the surface of the wallpaper. Beacons are removed in the following way:

with the sharp end of a spatula or trowel, the upper end of the profile is hooked and squeezed out;
then it is captured with pliers and, with downward twisting movements, is gradually pulled out of the mounts.
the grooves formed in place of the profiles are filled and leveled with a solution.

Final works

After the plaster has dried, the final leveling is done with putty, which allows you to get a smooth wall surface. Usually two layers are used - a starting and finishing layer to obtain a perfectly smooth surface for thin types of wallpaper. Under thick vinyl wallpaper, you can get by with one starting layer of putty, which, after drying, is rubbed and polished with a special mesh or fine sandpaper. After grinding, it is necessary to remove dust with a construction vacuum cleaner or a regular brush, and then prime the finished surface. The primer improves the adhesion of wallpaper adhesive to the wall, increases its antibacterial properties, resistance to moisture, and strengthens the structure of the plaster.

After the preparation of the walls, wallpapering will turn into an easy and exciting activity, and most importantly, it ensures a high quality result and a long service life of the new wallpaper.