Proper installation of formwork under the foundation for the bath. How to fill the foundation under the bath. Marking and earthworks

Your own bath personal plot- this is not only a sign of a zealous owner. She has direct practical use. A bathhouse built with love will be invariably popular not only with the owners, but also with the guests.

As well as any capital structure, the construction of a bath begins with the construction of the foundation. Pouring the foundation, it would seem, is the simplest operation in construction. But not everything is as simple as it seems.

As in every business, there are subtleties and nuances here. This article is just for those who want to learn how to build a foundation for a bathhouse with their own hands.

The main types of foundations in the construction of baths

The construction of the foundation of the bath, as, in general, of any other structure, should begin with determining the type of soil. The type of foundation to be applied will depend on the type of soil.

In order to understand for yourself how to build a foundation for a bath with your own hands, you should consider in detail all their types and features of use.

Columnar - the simplest type. It can be used for hard soils that are not subject to displacement, landslides, etc. If your site has clay soil or fine gravel, this foundation will suit you perfectly.

pile foundation used on swampy soils or soils with low density, such as sand.

Tape. traditional type foundation. Excellent for almost all types of soil.

Screw. Used in areas that have complex terrain or have the property of subsidence of the soil.

bored foundation It is mainly used for the construction of buildings on slopes and soft soils. It is considered one of the varieties of columnar, however, in comparison with it, it has greater strength.

Monolithic slab It is used only for very difficult types of soil or severe climatic conditions. The price of such a foundation hurts. In this case, it makes sense to think it over very well. Perhaps the construction of a temporary, for a year or two, the structure will be more justified.

In the photo - pouring a monolithic foundation

Before making a final decision on which type of foundation to give preference to, it should be borne in mind that brick, block and frame types of structures require a strip foundation. If you are planning to build a traditional log Russian.

The main thing when constructing a columnar foundation is the correct calculation of its depth, otherwise you will simply be tormented by repairing the building.

We build a strip foundation for a bath

The foundation is the basis of the whole structure, so it is very important to observe the accuracy of this process, since in case of error it will be very difficult to correct it. In addition, this error can appear already at the stage of installing the roof, and even worse - during operation. This, for example, is uneven settlement and, as a result, the occurrence of cracks in the walls, and even the complete destruction of the building.

Not every site owner knows how to properly build a foundation for a bath. The whole process of the device is divided into several stages.

Each of them is important in its own way. Our detailed instructions will help you deal with them.

The pouring of the foundation can be divided into several stages:

preparation and clearing of the territory;
marking and land works;
foundation cushion device;
production of formwork and reinforcement of the foundation of the future building;
direct filling.

Training

At the preparation stage, it is important to carefully study the project and clear the territory. This is necessary for convenient access to equipment and proper marking. Even if you are going to pour the foundation by hand, you will still need a place to store materials and mix concrete.

The space for construction should be cleared of debris and large stones. Uproot stumps, shrubs, remove extra trees, if any. If the area is uneven then the surface should be leveled with shovels, rakes or a bulldozer.

Marking and earthworks

For marking, you need two people, a long tape measure, a skein of twine and pegs. It is important to remember that any foundation consists of rectangles. For building right angle on the ground, just a tape measure and elementary knowledge of geometry are enough.

In a right triangle, the sides are related as 3x4x5 i.e. if you have 3 meters on one side, then you should set aside 4 meters on the second, and the distance between these marks should be 5 meters. In addition, you can check yourself - the diagonals in the rectangle must be equal.

In earthworks, everything is simple - we take a shovel and dig, throwing the earth away so that it does not crumble back into the trench. Trench width - the width of the shovel i.e. 20-30 cm. The walls of the trench must be kept vertical.

If the soil is sandy, in the process, you can moisten the walls of the trench with water so that the earth does not crumble back into the pit. Trench depths of 60-70 cm are more than enough.

Making a pillow

Here it is worth contacting a specialist. He will advise what to make it from, depending on the soil on which the bath will be built. If there is no specialist “at hand” and the soil is not super difficult, we arrange the pillow ourselves.

To do this, we fill the bottom of the trench with coarse sand. The thickness of the sand layer is 20-30 cm. The pillow must be well compacted.

Formwork and reinforcement

Next, we mount the formwork. Usually, the formwork is made of boards, with which the concrete will be covered from spreading. Its height should be greater than the planned height of the foundation, and the boards should be thick enough to withstand the pressure of concrete.

You can also use used plywood, OSB or chipboard. From the outside of the formwork we hammer pegs. For strength, it is possible to bandage the formwork on top with slats every 70-100 cm.

In the presented video in this article you will find more information on this topic.

Russian real bath - what could be better for the body and for the soul? There is no person who would treat her indifferently. However, for each of us, this is something different, special: to relax, get together in a cheerful friendly company, warm up with a whisk, etc.

At the same time, even someone who has not previously been engaged in this kind of occupation can build it, since the procedure is very simple. There are many useful information in the worldwide network, with the help of which you can perform the task technically correctly. Let's take a look at how to make the foundation for a 3x5 bath with your own hands.

Choose a plot

Site selection plays an important role in construction. This stage must be approached responsibly, since the life of the object will largely depend on what surface it is located on.

The area should be relatively flat. There should not be any boulders, stumps and other things there. Also, you must calculate its size in advance. As for our case, we stick to the size of 3x5. But keep in mind, the bath itself should have 3x3 meters and the dressing room should have 2x3.

Take into account possible landslides, subsidence, slope, etc. The ideal solution would be sandy soil, since it does not sag, practically does not move, so you can make a shallow foundation.

If you are going to carry out construction on clay or chernozem soil, then make the depth no higher than the level of soil freezing. It's about twenty centimeters. Do not forget to lay a sand cushion, which can protect against the movements that occur during frost heaving.

It is good if the site has a slight slope, necessary for the flow of melt and rainwater. It can be in any direction, the only exception is the north.

Preliminary work

Before starting work, it is recommended to level the site by removing the top layer of soil from it, using a long cord for this purpose. Make drawings and markup.

Important! Do not forget that the width of the foundation should be ten centimeters more than the wall. The accuracy of the markup must be checked using a right triangle and a level.

The base also has great importance. However, given the fact that the structure is not heavy, you can do without a strip foundation, opting for small supports. In the corners it is necessary to build boxes that are needed to fill the pillars.

You can do all the work yourself or take the help of specialists. Their rates are different and depend on the level of skill of the person, his work experience and assessment of work.

Bath construction

After the cement mixture hardens, lay out the roofing material (pieces will do), thanks to them, dampness and moisture from the foundation to the walls of the building will be much less.

Building the foundations for a 3x5 bath with our own hands, we lay out the basement row on the roofing material, using not pieces in length, but a solid beam, and in width - we use its segments of the required length. Be sure to make cuts at the ends of the material. This is necessary for overlapping.

Subsequent rows should be laid out without a dressing room. Then we cut off the necessary pieces of the bars you used and carefully fill their ends. On each row we lay the tape necessary for wall insulation. If you don't have jute, use moss.

We lay a solid beam every three or four rows to prevent the wall from pulling away. Then all the bars in the opening must be cut. The last row, as well as the first, is laid from a single beam, supports are made.

Strip foundation

If you want to play it safe and make a solid foundation, choose a tape one. It is performed for an object built from a frame, fbs blocks or bricks. It is easy to build, but a lot of material diverges here, since the filling is done around the entire perimeter.

Making a foundation for a 3x5 bath with your own hands, make a quality foundation. This can be achieved using gravel, sand, water and cement.

It is very important to mix the components correctly, in the right proportions. At the same time, cement must be taken three times more than water, and sand is two times less than gravel.

We make a sand cushion, using in turn a layer of sand and a layer of gravel. Each of them should have a thickness of about twenty centimeters. Do not forget to spill them with water;
After you reach half of the trench, the pillow (sand) must be leveled and strong material should be laid well in a continuous row, for example, bricks;
We make a removable formwork;
We mix the concrete mixture, using a concrete mixer for this purpose;
We install the reinforcing cage and fill the prepared solution to the intended height.

Column Foundation

In those cases, if you decide to build a bath from timber or logs, it is best to choose a columnar foundation. This option will allow you to save money during its construction, since in this case you do not have to fill the trench with gravel and sand and spend a huge amount of cement. However, a columnar foundation is not suitable for heaving soils.

It is best to perform it from metal pipes, stone, wooden or brick pillars. Below is an instruction on how to make a foundation using asbestos-cement pipes. it the best option for a bath.

We make marks in the corners of the bath. You need to pay attention to those places where there will be the greatest load. In this case, the distance between the pillars should not exceed two meters;
According to the marks, we drill one and a half meter wells. Their diameter should be about twenty-five centimeters;
We insert pre-prepared pipes with a diameter of about twenty centimeters into the wells, it is recommended to wrap each of them with roofing material. Make sure the material is level. After that, we fill the empty space with earth;
Pour concrete mixture inside each pipe. Leave fifteen centimeters to the top;
We insert the reinforcing bar and fill the pipe, using concrete, to the very top.

Internal work

Before you start interior work, you need to decide exactly how you want it to look. Someone performs it in one restrained style, while someone prefers a simpler solution, trying to save a little on this.

We collect the floor and ceiling from the board, which has a width of about forty millimeters. It should be taken into account the fact that the floors must be done regardless of the walls of the building.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a 3x5 bath (how to do it right)

In the article you will find step-by-step instructions for building a foundation for a 3x5 bath with your own hands

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath: Step by step instructions

To build a bath is the first desire of most owners of private houses. But before construction, questions arise: what material to build from, what the foundation should be, etc. If you decide to mount the foundation for a bath with your own hands, then this article will become an assistant and tell you in detail how to do it right.

Types of foundations for a bath

The bath is a lightweight construction, but there are two-story ones, you need to choose the foundation individually for each building, starting from the indicators:

The massiveness of the bath
Specifics of geodesy in the construction area.
The material from which the bath will be assembled.

Monolithic. This is mounted on floating soil with high-lying GW (groundwater).
Columnar or pile-screw. It is applied for wooden baths from a bar or a rounded log is suitable for sandy soil.
Tape. The most common option is used on soil with deep GW.
Mixed type (tape + pile). They are rarely used for baths, suitable for soil with quicksand, high occurrence of GW.

Depending on the material used, the foundation at the bath may consist of:

from brick;
concrete;
from blocks;
cast or screw piles.

The foundation for the bath is in most cases lightweight, then the installation is done by hand. Of course, there are companies involved in the construction of turnkey baths at a price of 10,000 m2, but in order to save money, it is easier to do the work yourself. How to make a foundation for a bath various kinds, we'll talk below.

Do-it-yourself installation of the base under the bath

Each of the listed types of foundation for a bath has its own characteristics, they need to be considered separately. The only thing that unites the work is the choice of a place for construction, the preparation of a project plan.

How to choose the right place for laying the bath

The choice of a place for the construction of a bath must be taken seriously. The structure is not built for one year, it must be located correctly. There are several types of bath location: an annex to the main house, a separate bath. If the bath is an annex to residential building, the foundation to it is performed similarly to the main one with binding. You should not make screw piles when the main house is on a strip foundation.

A separate bathhouse means choosing a place away from trees and other plantings. The bath will be heated, smoke, sparks are not useful fruit trees.

Why is a project needed?

Building a bath with your own hands requires preliminary planning. Regardless of whether the building will be registered in the future or not. The easiest way is to use a typical project, there are many of them on the net. To any of standard projects photos are attached. Photos are necessary to understand and present the construction in more detail.

Planning also includes an estimate, which calculates all costs and necessary material to start building a foundation for a bath with your own hands.

Installation of strip foundation

A strip foundation for building a bath with your own hands can be done in several ways. The future platform is preliminarily marked on the site, a trench is dug along it to a depth of more than 50 cm, wider than the intended brick or timber masonry by 4–5 cm. It is better to start digging a trench in the summer when ground water have the most low level occurrence. The course of subsequent work depends on the option chosen:

A pillow is made of gravel and coarse sand. Each layer is rammed, should have a thickness of 15 cm. You can use a ready-made mixture of PGS, but it costs more. For better compaction, sand is recommended to be shed with water. A liquid cement mortar is made (should resemble sour cream), spilled onto a sand cushion. A brick or rubble stone is mounted on the base. This will be a strip base mounted with a brick. Between every second row lay a masonry mesh. Waterproof with roofing material (2 layers).
Another way begins with filling the pillow from ASG to half, it is rammed in exactly the same way as in the first case. It is important that the surface of the pillow is level. The next step is to lay bricks in one row. After that, formwork is mounted from boards and timber 40x40 mm. The height of the formwork is more than 40 cm. Concrete based on moisture-resistant cement is poured into it.
The method is used for dense soil. Formwork is installed from dense material and timber, such as slate. It is necessary to lay slate sheets with an overlap of 8-10 cm for the tightness of the formwork. Sand is poured into the formwork, which is rammed. The next layer is filled with gravel, half of the dug trench. The sealing structure is filled with water. Then the concrete begins to be poured. The concrete layer should be no more than 150 mm. It is necessary to fill with concrete before the appearance of a liquid cement solution on the surface.

For uniform drying, the foundation is covered from above with sawdust, burlap, even PVC film is suitable. Once in essence, the structure is unwrapped and again watered. So, she must stand under isolation for three days. Then the foundation for the bath is opened, allowed to dry completely, to settle. The minimum drying time is 2-3 days. After it can be covered with waterproofing, for example, roofing material in two layers.

For work on the construction of a foundation for a tape-type bath, several factors must be taken into account:

The height of the pour above ground level should be 20–40 cm. It depends on the level of occurrence of the GW and the material from which the walls are assembled, so for a bath from a bar, the height of the base should be greater, since the tree does not like moisture.
Silicate brick is not suitable for building a foundation; over time, it collapses from moisture. Red ceramic is made at high temperatures and humidity is not terrible for him.
The tape has a width of 25–50 cm and depends on the material from which the bath will be built.
Concrete can be purchased ready-made, but it will be cheaper to make it yourself.

sand (preferably coarse-grained, it is pre-cleaned) 5% moisture - 1150 kg;
portland cement (moisture resistant) - 400–500 kg;
crushed stone (small or medium) - 1800–200 kg;
water - 170–175 l

You can also calculate the amount of concrete on the foundation of the bath yourself. For example, a strip foundation with a height of 0.3m and a length of 19m contains 0.3x0.3x19 = 1.71 m3. Similarly, any volume can be calculated. But be sure to additionally take into account that a foundation is also needed for the stove, so you need to add another reserve of 0.3 m3 to the resulting volume.

Installation of a column foundation

The simplest type of foundation for a bath is made of timber, chopped or rounded logs. A good option for any type of soil, especially in hilly areas.

The design consists of pillars, which are located at the corners of the future bath, under all bearing walls. The distance between the posts is a maximum of 2 m.

It is not difficult to make a columnar foundation with your own hands, you can use:

wooden or metal, asbestos poles;
laid out brick columns;
filled piles;
screw poles.

An inexpensive option is wooden poles, but before use they must be dried and treated with tar or a deep penetration antiseptic, such as Senezh. For a columnar foundation made of wood, it is better to use larch or aspen, since these types of wood are not afraid of water and when wet, they only become stronger. Installed in pre-drilled holes, where sand or ASG is poured, fixed with concrete pouring.

Brick columns are the most time-consuming type of do-it-yourself foundation for a bath. But with some effort, this work can be done. A diagram of this can be seen in the figure.

The location of the posts is marked, the top layer of soil is removed and a hole is dug, 10-20 cm wider than the future pillar in diameter. A sand cushion of at least 15 cm is laid. A column of bricks is mounted on top in two rows.

Do-it-yourself concrete piles are most often installed, since the work, although time-consuming, does not require special skills. Wells are drilled with a depth of at least 1.5 m and a diameter of at least 250 mm. Connected reinforcement frames are laid in the holes. They are knitted in advance from reinforced rods of 3 pieces, short connecting and knitting wire. The structure is poured with concrete. A brick column is laid out on top of the pile.

You can simplify this design by taking an asbestos pipe with a cross section of 200 mm and installing them in wells. Concrete is poured inside the pipe. The gap between the pipe wall and the well is filled with clay or gravel and rammed.

Concrete must be poured into the pipe gradually. The first time the filling is carried out by ⅓, since the pipes will then lift a little. In the second stage, another ⅓ part is poured and iron fittings are inserted inside. Only after that the rest is poured. Such a foundation dries completely in 5-7 days.

Another option for pillars is screw piles. They are sold ready-made and have blades. They are screwed into the ground with a beam. The only negative is that it is impossible to do the work with your own hands alone. You can screw to different depths, which is good for uneven surfaces.

Installation of a monolithic foundation for a bath

The type of foundation is used for any soil, but most often if there is a swimmer. The design is expensive, but the pressure on the ground is evenly distributed and the bath will not warp over time. There is no need to install a separate pillow and foundation for the stove. The structure is either poured with concrete on a mounted reinforcement frame, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used.

Do-it-yourself installation of a monolithic foundation for a bath is carried out in stages:

A trench is dug to the width of the foundation and a depth of 80–60 cm.
A pillow of sand and gravel 15 cm is poured at the bottom.
Waterproofing is covered, for example, roofing material. There can be 2–3 layers, the main thing is that there are no uncovered areas, with an overlap of 10–15 cm.
Then formwork and reinforced girdle are made, which are again poured with concrete.
It is important to think about where the drain will be before pouring and it will be more difficult to install the pipe after hardening.

Only the owner can choose the desired foundation option. At this moment, you need to build on your strengths and material capabilities.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath

The foundation for a bath with your own hands, what types are there and how to build them, a step-by-step description of work with photos and videos.

Do-it-yourself strip foundation for a bath, step by step instructions

An integral part of any building, including baths, is the foundation. The principle of pouring the base is no different from laying the foundation for a residential building. The category of the foundation for a bath is determined based on the following factors:

Load on land. In most cases, a bathhouse is an oversized building. Naturally, the load from its structure will be less, which means that there is no need to lay too massive a foundation.
Soil features. The soil under the building may be heaving, or slightly heaving. The groundwater level can be deep, or lie close to the ground surface. The soil is sandy, clay, black earth, and so on. Each of them contributes to a certain coefficient of shrinkage of the building. This should be taken into account when determining which foundation to fill.

Before you get acquainted with the step-by-step instructions for pouring the foundation for a bath with your own hands, you need to consider the features of the main types of foundations that are used in this case.

Foundation types

The main rule that should be taken into account when choosing a monolith for a bath is small overall dimensions, but strong enough to cope with the load from construction. The design of such a base is simple enough to do the work with your own hands. In this case, use:

Phased work

The time has come to do the work on pouring the foundation under the bath with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction contains a description of the following works:

The choice of a place for filling.
Site preparation.
Digging a trench.
Concrete works.

Before starting the preparatory work, it is necessary to have a project of the future bath in hand. This is necessary in order to determine exactly what size the foundation should be, even if all the work will be done by hand (without using the services of a construction team).

Location selection

The bath can be free-standing, or an extension to the main building. Cannot be placed next to it. wooden gazebos(a spark could ignite them). The building should stand at a distance from fruit trees (smoke will harm their branches, foliage and fruits). The implementation of this rule ensures fire safety during the operation of the building.

If the design of the building allows it to be built near the house, then the foundations of both buildings should be identical. In the case of a free-standing bath, its foundation can be of any structure (tape, slab, etc.).

Site preparation

The next step is to prepare the site for excavation. If a tree grew on the site where the building will be located, be sure to remove all root system so that it does not grow inside the building, or destroy its foundation. Useful soil can be previously removed. It can be used for bedding in flower beds, or laying out lawns. During concrete work, cement mortar can damage the fertile soil layer. Therefore, they should be carried out as close as possible to the building itself (ideally, inside the future room).

trench digging

Earthwork is a very important preparatory process before pouring the foundation with your own hands. At this stage, you need to know the depth and width of the future base. In most cases, a shallow tape monolith is sufficient.

Foundation trench

The walls of the trench will act as formwork. Therefore, they should be as even as possible (in order to avoid overspending material). During the execution of work, the earth can be thrown inside the future building. This will make it easier to level and raise the floor level. One of essential elements the foundations of any building are bedding. Mostly sand is used for this.

It should be well compacted (with a vibrating plate, or with a vibrating foot). If the area has a high level of groundwater, then at this stage it is necessary to take care of waterproofing. In the old days, a layer of clay was covered under strip foundations and strongly compacted. Then a small layer of liquid clay was poured. After it stood, concrete work was carried out. This is the most cheap option waterproofing. But today there are inexpensive materials, which are ideal for protecting the base of the building from groundwater.

Final stage preparatory work- installation of formwork for a strip foundation, or plinth. For convenience in pouring the monolith, its height should correspond to the level of the future foundation for the bath.

Concrete works

Each type of foundation requires its own procedures. Therefore, further in the step-by-step instructions for pouring the foundation of the bath with your own hands, each type of foundation will be described separately.

The grade of concrete for such work must be at least M200 (220 liters of water, 324 kilograms of cement grade 400/500, 1296 kg of sand, and 1296 kilograms of crushed stone of fraction 10 are taken per cube of the mixture). Be sure to reinforce the monolith layer so that it is stronger. For this, reinforcement with a diameter of one centimeter is sufficient.

Shallow-depth tape

The strip foundation is used on dense soil. If the ground is not prone to heaving, such a foundation will be sufficient to support the structure of the building. When choosing this method, you need to consider that its use is only permissible on relatively flat areas. The depth of the trench should be 20, 40, or 60 centimeters. You can dig it out with your own hands without using an excavator. At the bottom of the trench, a bed of sand is made and compacted. Its thickness is 20 centimeters.

Then the frame of the reinforcement is connected. It must be placed on small stones so that after pouring it is completely in the monolith. After the waterproofing has been laid, the armored belt and formwork have been mounted, concrete can be poured. To do the work with your own hands, the solution is prepared according to the following proportion: two buckets of sand are taken per bucket of cement, and three buckets of crushed stone.

The tape version must be firmly tied with rods. At the corners, a piece of reinforcement should be bent in half, and not tied up with another rod. The strength of the monolith will depend on this.

Column Foundation

Unlike a tape monolith, this type of base is easier to do with your own hands. For this, during preparatory phase a shallow trench breaks out (this will be the bottom of the basement). Further, a well is drilled to a depth of 1.3 meters. Sand (thickness 30 centimeters) is poured onto its bottom, and compacted. After that, a frame of reinforcement is connected, and placed in a well.

Do not immediately fill the entire cavity of the well, otherwise voids will form in the concrete at such a depth. To avoid such difficulties, concrete should be poured gradually, followed by compaction with a vibrating finger. This support should be left to harden for about a week. After that, the pillars can be connected to each other by installing bars, or channels. If the support is not filled evenly, you should not try to pull it out in order to subsequently install it correctly. To align the support, you need to cut upper part pillar, bringing it under the level.

slab foundation

Such a base for a bath is used in the case of a high level of groundwater, or in the presence of floaters. During the preparatory work, the entire area where the building will stand is cleared. The thickness of the soil corresponding to the thickness of the monolithic slab is removed. At the bottom of the "trough" sand is poured and compacted. Then a waterproofing film is laid.

After that, the frame of the reinforcement is connected. To make it easier to do this work with your own hands, first two grids are knitted with a cell of 30-40 centimeters. The first is laid on stands (so that it does not lie on the sand) at the bottom of the pit. The second mesh is attached above it at a distance of 15 centimeters using reinforcing bars. It is necessary to fix these elements with a flexible knitting wire. Watch the video how to make slab foundation under the bath

After performing such work, the entire plane is poured with concrete. The peculiarity of such a foundation is that the weight of the building is distributed over the entire plot of land. Therefore, it does not sag, even if the bath is built on unsteady soils.

Regardless of the type of foundation, be it tape, slab or any other, before pouring the monolith across the structure, you need to place plastic pipe filled with sand. This mortgage will allow plumbing communications to be brought into the bathhouse building.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath, step by step instructions

How to properly fill the strip foundation for a bath with your own hands: step-by-step instructions, basic technological methods, material consumption.

How to build a foundation for a bath

Bath foundation construction milestone, which determines how functional the structure will be. This is the selection and preparation of the site, formwork, concrete pouring, erection of walls and roofs.

Preparation for the construction of the bath

Before the time when the bath will be usable, a lot of time will pass. The most time-consuming is the stage of building the foundation. It takes from 3 months to a year.

Main stages of construction:

Development of a drawing of a structure and a layout plan on the site.
Procurement of materials and preparation of tools.
Building a foundation.
Building walls, installing windows, doors, stoves.
Roofing.
Bath interior.

The foundation, as the basis of a future structure, requires a responsible approach to the choice of site, materials and the quality of construction work.

What type of foundation to choose

Depending on the type of soil on the site, they decide which foundation to build, to what depth to deepen.

The main types of foundations for a bath:

pile - used on uneven surfaces with a large elevation difference, when there is a risk of flooding;
tape - the most common type used on flat areas and on most types of soil;
tiled - suitable for heaving soils, wetlands.

Information about what kind of soil is present on the site for the construction of a bath will be found out through geodetic research. Or they dig a hole with a depth below the freezing point (about 2-2.5 m) and determine the composition of the soil by layers.

What to make the foundation of the bath

Strip foundation, as the most common type of foundation, can be:

A monolithic structure based on reinforcing mesh and concrete is the most durable, withstands high loads. Block and brick gives savings of up to 20%, but is not suitable for construction on heaving soils.

On soils that are dominated by sand and clay, install a tiled foundation. This will help to avoid deformation of the walls and roof of the bath due to natural swelling of the soil.

To build a strip foundation you will need:

concrete mixture of water, cement, river sand, crushed stone;
granite crushed stone 10-20 mm fraction, grade not lower than 400;
fittings;
wire;
formwork material - wooden boards, chipboard;
nails;
roofing felt or PET film;
pipes for vents and drains;
sand and fine gravel for a pillow;
old metal buckets, beams, pipes, stones, pieces of concrete - to save materials and strengthen the foundation.

Step-by-step instructions: strip foundation for a bath

The main stages of work in the construction of the foundation for the bath:

Bath site preparation. Markup.
Digging a trench. Cushion padding.
Formwork and trench reinforcement.
Pouring concrete.
The final stage of work: dismantling the formwork and sprinkling the foundation with soil.

Preparation of the site for the bath

Remove from the site, which is intended for the construction of a bath, garbage, dry grass and leaves. If trees and shrubs grew here, remove the roots completely.

If the ground is uneven, holes will need to be filled or protruding parts cut off. On a site with a significant difference in heights, it is installed mainly pile foundation. With a slight difference in height, the base is made according to the level in the horizontal plane.

Fertile soil with grass and roots is removed from the foundation site. Usually, 10-15 cm of the top layer of soil is removed for this. At the same time, the earth is removed from all sides by another 0.5-1 m. So, the site will be slightly larger than the design size of the foundation.

Preparation of a trench for a bath

Mark up the future foundation. To do this, drive in metal rods at 4 corners of the future bath. Pull the nylon thread around the perimeter, bring the level horizontally, fix it. Measure the estimated width of the foundation and drive 4 more rods into the inner corners. Pull the thread, bring the level, fix. Check the correct installation of the rods and the tension of the cord: measure the diagonals. If the corners are drawn at 90 degrees, the diagonals will be the same in length.

Dig a trench, focusing on the thread. Trench depth: + 20 ... 30 cm to the depth of soil freezing (buried foundation); up to 60 cm (shallow). The bottom is leveled with a leveler.

Lay a pillow at the bottom of the finished trench. To do this, pour fine sand evenly in a layer 15-20 cm thick. Level and pour. Compact the wet sand using a vibratory rammer. This work can be done with a heavy bar with handles.

Formwork and foundation reinforcement

Before installing the formwork at the bottom of the trench, a layer of broken bricks and coarse gravel are laid on the sand. This is done so that the metal frame of the foundation does not touch the pillow. Sand is a porous building material that retains and releases moisture well. Therefore, with constant interaction, the reinforcement rots and collapses.

Prepare the formwork: make shields from unedged boards and chipboard, knock down with nails, connect with screws, tie with wire. Frame height - 45 cm above the level of the trench.

The foundation formwork is a temporary frame for liquid concrete. Therefore, fasten the shields in such a way that, without damage to the base, they can be removed after the building mixture has solidified.

For reinforcement, use metal rods and wire to tie them together. Welding in this case is not the best solution, since corrosion will primarily affect the welded surfaces.

Frame reinforcement must be uniform. A common laying option is two rods along the trench and the installation of vertical metal pins on both sides of the trench every 20-30 cm. At the intersections of the reinforcement, a wire knot is made. The metal frame is finished with two rods fixed on vertical pins at the top. To save on concrete and strengthen the foundation, any metal products are added to the frame: old buckets, agricultural tools, channels, wire remnants, scrap.

Do not use non-ferrous metals, products containing lead, radioactive substances in the foundation.

pouring concrete

To fill the foundation, a mixture of sand, cement, gravel, water is prepared. Proportions of concrete:

1 part sand;
1 part cement;
1.5 parts gravel;
the mass of water is not less than 60% of the entire mixture.

cement grade not lower than M-200 - in warm weather;
not lower than M-400 - in the cold.

In summer, in the heat, the water is cooled so that the concrete hardens evenly. In the cold season, on the contrary, the mixture for pouring the foundation is prepared in warm water.

The concrete mixture is poured directly into the metal frame. In order to evenly distribute the liquid mass in the formwork and remove air bubbles, holes are periodically made with a shovel, crowbar, metal rods. Instead, special vibrators are often used. The less air remains inside the foundation, the stronger and more reliable the base of the bath will be.

It is not allowed to get into the concrete mixture of earth, branches, organic debris, and other chemicals.

Formwork dismantling

Concrete shrinkage occurs within 3-12 months. It depends on weather conditions, the consistency of the mixture, the brand of cement, the quality of the fill. After the preliminary hardening of the foundation, the formwork is removed (after 3-7 days).

The cavities in the trench, left over from wooden shields, are covered with rubble and soil. To drain groundwater, drainage is arranged: special perforated pipes are laid on the bottom along the perimeter of the foundation and taken to the site.

After creating a solid foundation within 7-30 days, an experienced builder will finish the bathhouse and hand it over on a turnkey basis. The erection of walls, roofs, interior decoration, installation of windows, doors, stoves - these stages take place much faster than pouring the base. However, each of them requires certain skills and the involvement of additional labor. If you can handle the foundation with your own hands alone, then at least two people will be required to lay the roof. To install a stove, ventilation, chimney, you will need an experienced stove-maker, and a good carpenter will help you complete interior decoration baths with natural wood.

Building a bath: step by step instructions - do-it-yourself foundation, video

How to build a foundation for a bath Building a foundation for a bath is an important stage, which determines how functional the structure will be. This is the selection and preparation of the site, formwork, pouring

The bath is a lightweight construction, but there are two-story ones, you need to choose the foundation individually for each building, starting from the indicators:

The massiveness of the bath
Specifics of geodesy in the construction area.
The material from which the bath will be assembled.

The foundation for the bath can be:

Monolithic. This is mounted on floating soil with high-lying GW (groundwater).
Columnar or pile-screw. It is used for wooden baths made of timber or logs, suitable for sandy soil.
Tape. The most common option is used on soil with deep GW.
Mixed type (tape + pile). They are rarely used for baths, suitable for soil with quicksand, high occurrence of GW.

Depending on the material used, the foundation at the bath may consist of:

from brick;
concrete;
from blocks;
cast or screw piles.

Do-it-yourself installation of the base under the bath

How to choose the right place for laying the bath

The choice of a place for the construction of a bath must be taken seriously. The structure is not built for one year, it must be located correctly. There are several types of bath location: an extension to the main house, a separate bath. If the bath is an extension to a residential building, the foundation for it is similar to the main one with a binding. You should not make screw piles when the main house is on a strip foundation.

A separate bathhouse means choosing a place away from trees and other plantings. The bath will be heated, smoke, sparks are not useful for fruit trees.

Why is a project needed?
Building a bath with your own hands requires preliminary planning. Regardless of whether the building will be registered in the future or not. The easiest way is to use a typical project, there are many of them on the net. Photos are attached to any of the typical projects. Photos are necessary to understand and present the construction in more detail.
Planning also includes an estimate, where all costs and the necessary material are calculated in order to start building a foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands.

Installation of strip foundation

A strip foundation for building a bath with your own hands can be done in several ways. The future platform is preliminarily marked on the site, a trench is dug along it to a depth of more than 50 cm, 4–5 cm wider than the intended brick or timber masonry. It is better to start digging a trench in the summer when groundwater has the lowest level of occurrence. The course of subsequent work depends on the option chosen:

A pillow is made of gravel and coarse sand. Each layer is rammed, should have a thickness of 15 cm. You can use a ready-made mixture of PGS, but it costs more. For better compaction, sand is recommended to be shed with water. A liquid cement mortar is made (should resemble sour cream), spilled onto a sand cushion. A brick or rubble stone is mounted on the base. This will be a strip base mounted with a brick. Between every second row lay a masonry mesh. Waterproof with roofing material (2 layers).
Another way begins with filling the pillow from ASG to half, it is rammed in exactly the same way as in the first case. It is important that the surface of the pillow is level. The next step is to lay bricks in one row. After that, formwork is mounted from boards and timber 40x40 mm. The height of the formwork is more than 40 cm. Concrete based on moisture-resistant cement is poured into it.
The method is used for dense soil. Formwork is installed from dense material and timber, such as slate. It is necessary to lay slate sheets with an overlap of 8-10 cm for the tightness of the formwork. Sand is poured into the formwork, which is rammed. The next layer is filled with gravel, half of the dug trench. The sealing structure is filled with water. Then the concrete begins to be poured. The concrete layer should be no more than 150 mm. It is necessary to fill with concrete before the appearance of a liquid cement solution on the surface.

After pouring any foundation, it is important to properly dry the structure. If drying is fast, uneven, then over time the foundation will crack, the bath can lead.

For work on the construction of a foundation for a tape-type bath, several factors must be taken into account:

The height of the pour above ground level should be 20–40 cm. It depends on the level of occurrence of the GW and the material from which the walls are assembled, so for a bath from a bar, the height of the base should be greater, since the tree does not like moisture.
Silicate brick is not suitable for building a foundation; over time, it collapses from moisture. Red ceramic is made at high temperatures and humidity is not terrible for him.
The tape has a width of 25–50 cm and depends on the material from which the bath will be built.
Concrete can be purchased ready-made, but it will be cheaper to make it yourself.

The composition of concrete (per 1 cube):

sand (preferably coarse-grained, it is pre-cleaned) 5% moisture - 1150 kg;
portland cement (moisture resistant) - 400–500 kg;
crushed stone (small or medium) - 1800–200 kg;
water - 170–175 l

How professionals build a strip foundation:

Installation of a column foundation

The simplest type of foundation for a bath is made of timber, chopped or rounded logs. A good option for any type of soil, especially in hilly areas.
The design consists of pillars, which are located at the corners of the future bath, under all load-bearing walls. The distance between the posts is a maximum of 2 m.

It is not difficult to make a columnar foundation with your own hands, you can use:

wooden or metal, asbestos poles;
laid out brick columns;
filled piles;
screw poles.

Brick columns are the most time-consuming type of do-it-yourself foundation for a bath. But with some effort, this work can be done. A diagram of this can be seen in the figure.

Column foundation pouring technology:

Installation of a monolithic foundation for a bath

Do-it-yourself installation of a monolithic foundation for a bath is carried out in stages:

A trench is dug to the width of the foundation and a depth of 80–60 cm.
A pillow of sand and gravel 15 cm is poured at the bottom.
Waterproofing is covered, for example, roofing material. There can be 2–3 layers, the main thing is that there are no uncovered areas, with an overlap of 10–15 cm.
Then formwork and reinforced girdle are made, which are again poured with concrete.
It is important to think about where the drain will be before pouring and it will be more difficult to install the pipe after hardening.

Only the owner can choose the desired foundation option. At this moment, you need to build on your strengths and material capabilities. You can do all the work with your own hands with some skill and by watching the thematic videos and photographs attached to this article.

In this article we will talk about how to make a foundation for a bath with our own hands, we will consider options for a strip and column foundation.

Before building the foundation, it is necessary to determine the type of foundation, based on the type of soil on the site. If a house was built before this, then the type of soil is already known.

Wet or bulk soil requires a strip foundation.
Clay soil - columnar.
Soil with a height difference - screw.
On swampy soils, the foundation must be chosen monolithic.

Most best options are strip and column foundations. The choice of them can be made at the stage of deciding which building material the bath will be built from.

For example:

if it is supposed to build a bath from blocks or bricks, a strip foundation is required.
if wooden timber or logs become the building material for the bath, a columnar foundation will do.

Belt construction

tape measure, cord, wooden stakes;
shovel, fittings in the form of metal rods and light wire for tying it;
sand, cement and gravel for making concrete mortar.

First, you need to mark the corners of the perimeter of the future bath with stakes using a tape measure. A stretched rope will help to get an even foundation.

Along the perimeter of the future bath, you need to dig a trench with a depth below the freezing level in the area. The width of the trench must be at least 30 cm. Its outer edge must pass along the markings made using stakes and rope.

At the bottom of the trench, you need to pour 20 cm of sand and gravel mixture, spill it and compact it well.

Reinforcement is laid on top - ready-made metal gratings, the thickness of the rods in which is at least 1 cm. If the reinforcement is separate metal rods, they can be connected to each other using soft wire.

After installing or laying the reinforcement on the prepared bottom of the trench, you can start filling it with concrete mortar. It is advisable to arrange the reinforcement so that it does not touch the edges of the trench and at the same time does not rise above the soil surface.

For a bath, it is advisable to use high-grade cement and fine-grained sand - this will provide additional strength to the future building.

If the strip foundation should rise above the ground surface, before pouring the concrete mixture, it is necessary to install the formwork from wooden planks. After a few days, the formwork can be removed and the foundation left to dry for another week or two.

Construction of a columnar

If a columnar foundation is required, the following will be required Construction Materials and tools:

stakes, tape measure and twine;
manual or electric drill;
piles - wooden poles, asbestos cement or metal pipes or brick;
cement, sand and gravel.

First, the territory is marked out: the pegs are located at the corners of the perimeter of the future structure, a rope is pulled between them.

Places for poles are marked: each hole should be located at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the previous one. This distance must be observed for both external and internal load-bearing walls.

When using wooden logs, they must first be treated with an antiseptic to prevent premature decay of the building material.

If pipes with a diameter of 20 cm - metal or asbestos-cement - act as the base of the foundation, they must be poured with concrete mortar during the arrangement of the base for the bath.

First, with the help of a manual or electric drill, holes in the ground are organized in the marked places with a depth of 1.2 to 1.5 m and a width of 25-30 cm.

A 20-30 cm layer of sand and gravel cushion is placed at the bottom of each hole, it is spilled with water and carefully compacted.

On the prepared bottom is placed processed wooden pole or a pipe of the required height.

Reinforcement is placed in the middle of the pipe or around the pole, after which the pipe is poured with concrete, and soil is compacted around it, as well as around the pole.

If the bath is made of timber, then for such a building you can choose the following types of foundation:

tape;
columnar;
monolithic.

Consider the features of their construction directly for a bath from a bar.

Concrete is poured along the planned perimeter. It has the following positive characteristics:

This type of foundation is able to withstand two floors, since its design is quite strong.
It is very beneficial for the construction of a bath, as it has a low level of thermal conductivity.
There is an opportunity to build an underground room or cellar.

If the bath will have small size and moderate weight of the structure, then you can make a columnar foundation. Mostly this type of foundation is used for the following types of soils:

clay;
gravel;
sand.

Some of its advantages can be highlighted:

Relatively low cost for construction.
If the soil in your area is sloping, then the columnar foundation will allow the construction of a bath.
It is very easy to manufacture, so you can completely do without the help of specialists.

This type of foundation is relevant for any type of soil. Its design is a reinforced concrete monolith. Among its advantages are:

High strength and reliability.
You can build multiple floors.

The main disadvantage of a monolithic foundation is the high cost.

A frame bath means the use of ready-made frames for quick construction. Given these and other features of such a building, let's compare the advantages of manufacturing a strip and column foundation.

It is important to understand that the construction of a frame bath implies the arrangement of sufficiently thick foundation walls to hold the entire building. Depending on the material used, the thickness of the foundation may be different:

Reinforced concrete - thickness from 10 cm.
Natural stone - from 5 cm.
Concrete - from 25 cm.
Flagstone concrete - from 30 cm.

When building a foundation, it is imperative to deepen it to a level below the freezing of the soil up to 20 cm. On the other hand, it makes no sense to equip the foundation with a depth of more than 70 cm. From this it becomes clear that the strip foundation is divided into two categories:

Finely recessed.
Buried.

For construction frame bath it is enough to use a shallowly buried foundation up to 60 cm deep.

Features of the column foundation

Although the strip foundation has many advantages, it is used in most cases for buildings made of blocks or bricks. Therefore, if the bath is wooden, then you can stop on a columnar foundation. When building it, you will need much less financial costs to the original material.

Such a foundation is especially relevant for the construction of chopped, cobbled and frame structures. Since in the interval between the pillars there is no need to build special jumpers.

However, if the soil is weakly bearing, then this type of foundation is not relevant. If you want to equip the basement, then with such a foundation it will be problematic to do so.

Foundation for the furnace

If you plan to install a brick oven in the bath, you need to organize your own foundation for it.

At the site of the future location of the stove, a hole in the ground is prepared with a depth of 50 cm. If one of the foundation pillars is provided in this area, then it is not installed to its full height, but at a depth of 50 cm from the surface it passes into a square or rectangular mini monolithic base.

The bottom is covered with a sand and gravel cushion, compacted, and reinforcement is placed on top. At the end, the hole is filled with concrete mortar.

Video

A photo

Building a bath is a less difficult task than building a private house, for example, but it still requires skills and a professional approach. So, initially choosing comfortable spot, it is necessary to make a foundation for small bath. The question becomes about the choice of material from which it will have to be built in the future. If the walls are made from lightweight foam blocks, one preparation is needed, when building walls from expanded clay concrete blocks, the base is completely different. If construction is carried out using a log house, you can get by with arranging the foundation from sleepers, timber or car tires.

The monolithic option is taken into account only when erecting a heavy structure. Let's take a closer look at where and what kind of foundation for a bathhouse with your own hands is better to equip and how long it will dry.

Site preparation and site marking

Construction begins with marking. You will need a little tool: wooden stakes 10 pieces, a hammer, a tape measure 15 meters long, a construction cord 25 m, or a fishing line, a hydro level 20 m. Let's take the usual foundation of expanded clay concrete blocks. Such a foundation for a do-it-yourself bath is built in a couple of days and does not require huge infusions of funds. Let's take the standard version.

We calculate the width of small pits. We take into account the insulation and piping of the foundation blocks of the bath: 200 mm block width, and 400 mm length. The height of the plinth is approximately 600 mm, 3 blocks. It turns out that the pits for development will be: 450 x 450 mm, with a depth of 0.8 meters - this standard size width and depth for the usual construction of a block base of expanded clay concrete blocks. Now let's move on to the development of pits.

Soil development for a bath

To make the foundation of a bathhouse with your own hands, you will need: a bayonet shovel, a shovel, a pickaxe, in case of the presence of stones, an ax for snags, and a trolley for removing soil. Having dug a given depth, we clearly level all the edges. The foundation for the firebox (bath stove) should also be provided. We must not forget that the installation of a firebox inside the building requires the preparation of a concrete pad. This is carried out before the main monolith is poured, after the calculation a pillow is made, and then the supporting pits are poured under the expanded clay concrete blocks.

Cushion under the stove or firebox

Digging a pit 1200 x 1200 mm to a depth of 600 mm. This depth was not chosen by chance, 300 mm is sprinkled with sand. The pillow is rammed with a manual rammer. The following actions follow:

A layer of waterproofing material is laid on the bottom, so that it is with a margin, and the edges protrude outside the pit.
The frame (formwork) is set to the required height, and a 200 mm concrete slab is poured.
Insulation is carried out with 50 mm expanded polystyrene plates, laying it directly on fresh concrete.
Then a finishing layer of screed is poured, 50–150 mm. Warming under heating element ready.

After concrete work on the installation of the carrier cushion, it is necessary to lay a network of water and sewer pipes and carry out their complete insulation.

Tip: The base for the firebox should not come into contact with the main foundation, as it tends to expand when heated. The gap is filled with sand after concrete work and dismantling of the upper formwork.

Nets and drains

Laying pipes for water supply networks for draining in a bath

Let's move on to laying pipes for water networks. The calculation of the diameter and length of water supply networks is carried out in advance, before the production of all concrete work. Separate trenches are dug under the water supply pipes, at the points where the pipes exit. The installation of water supply networks requires special skills and knowledge, but you can prepare trenches yourself. According to the technology, the pipes are laid on a cushion of crushed stone. The filling of the bottom of the ditches is equipped with gravel, the thickness of the standard layer is 80–100 mm. The ends of the pipes are brought out 100 mm above the floor level, in the right place and closed with plugs.

Subsequently, after all concrete work and the erection of walls from sleepers, all pipes and internal networks are installed. The depth of laying pipes into the ground from the outside of the room is 1200 mm, and from the inside 600 mm. The installation of networks can be carried out simultaneously with the drain, laying the pipes together.

The pillow for laying pipes and networks is rammed without fail. The slope for the laying is measured sewer pipes, height of inlet and outlet openings, drain angle. Before you make the entire foundation for the bath, take care of the drain for Wastewater. Prepare a pit or pit, draw a drain there. The optimal distance between the bath and the drain is 6-10 meters, otherwise the log house will become damp.

Foundation insulation

The foundation for a frame bath can freeze through, therefore, it is insulated from the outside various materials. Warming is carried out before the start of pouring concrete. Apply sheet material made of foam or polystyrene, for these purposes they are optimally suited. Apply sheets with a thickness of 50 - 80 mm., With a size of 600 x 1000 or 1000 x 1000 mm.

They are fastened along the outer side of the pits (along the outer edge), between the reinforcement frame and the ground. Then the space is completely filled with concrete to the required height. The insulation is of high quality and monolithic, durable. Expanded polystyrene does not absorb moisture. The service life of such materials is 25-30 years.

There is another option, how to carry out external insulation, pouring all the supports for the bath with expanded clay around the perimeter: after all the concrete work, develop sinuses around each concrete base and pour out the expanded clay pillow. Such insulation will require additional costs for the development of soil and the arrangement of waterproofing.

Reinforcement

Now let's try to figure out how to completely reinforce and pour concrete pillars under the bath with our own hands, and consider how to equip the masonry from expanded clay concrete blocks. You can start knitting an armored belt right on the site. It also requires marking and calculation. A simple way to knit a spatial frame:

Draw two parallel lines, and then lay the reinforcement cut to size along them and tie them like a ladder. The edges of the transverse rods should have outlets of 30 mm, beyond the edge of the main trolls, rods. All blanks are measured in advance and a preliminary calculation is made for the length and height of the blanks as much as necessary.
Having installed the blanks in all the holes, they are connected with a knitting wire to each other. First, the lower crossbars are knitted for ease of movement. Then the upper rods are attached.

If the holes are narrow, then the blanks are knitted completely. Then they are installed in the pit as a whole, tying only the corners. Reinforcement is carried out only with viscous, the use of welding equipment is unacceptable.

Foundation for heavy materials from expanded clay concrete blocks and foam blocks

Reliable foundation for an ordinary bath with your own hands, it is possible to do it only if you do not violate the basic construction technologies. The frame is connected, concrete is being prepared. The calculation of materials is carried out as follows: for the total cubic capacity of the foundation, the ratio of materials is taken: 12% cement, 25% sand, 45% crushed stone, the rest is water and clay. For expanded clay concrete compositions, the filler (crushed stone) is divided equally with expanded clay.

The composition will turn out to be warm, but it requires the use of waterproofing materials without fail. Before you build a foundation for a bath, from such a material, calculate the weight of the entire structure. For light construction it is suitable from foam blocks, and for expanded clay concrete materials it must be strengthened. It is necessary to change the depth of laying the foundation, pour it deeper by 0.5 meters, this applies to each monolithic pillar.

DIY block laying

Scheme of a columnar foundation made of blocks for a bath

The foundation in this case consists of expanded clay concrete blocks standing on concrete pillars. To begin with, we mark the directions for the blocks by hammering 4 pegs along the outer perimeter of the future bath. Pull and level the cord, to the height of approximately the first block. If you made basement formwork when pouring concrete, the masonry is carried out according to its size, placing the blocks on concrete pads.

Lay two blocks at a time, filling the seam with mortar. Lay the next row perpendicularly, the edge of the expanded clay block or foam block should touch the cord. Blocks are mainly used in order to raise the height of concrete foundations above the ground or with a large slope of the site. Lay the desired height and leave - let dry. During masonry, lay the studs between the blocks to secure the log house.

Construction of a supporting structure for light materials

The weight of the foam blocks is small up to 24 kg, with dimensions of 200 x 300 x 600 mm, unlike expanded clay concrete. The calculation of the foundation slab is carried out differently than under the pillar foundation. In this case, the entire structure will lie on the slab, transferring all the loads to the ground evenly, so it is stronger.
The construction of a slab (a slab version of the foundation) is easier to make than a pillar version, but it will also work for a log building. Depth is not needed for a monolithic surface foundation 1-1.5 meters high, there is enough recess in the ground by 40-50 cm along the entire plane or perimeter, it depends on the configuration of the log house.

The height of the above-ground part of the concrete slab is 10-15 cm. When pouring, a monolithic layer (slab) is obtained that carries the entire frame, evenly distributing the load from the building on the ground. The slab option is suitable, both for buildings of medium weight, and for structures made of foam blocks, foam concrete blocks, it is possible to build a bath from sleepers on it, build a log house, there are many options for using slab technology, as much as necessary for high-quality construction of buildings.

The slab foundation for the construction of walls from foam blocks is equipped as follows:

Marking is carried out under the slab, the building is taken in width and length, but with a margin of 800-100 mm. It will be correct to lay only a slab around the perimeter under the bath, and, upon completion, fill everything with clay inside.
The soil is removed to a depth of 400 mm, the pit is backfilled with sand, 200 mm thick. For foam blocks, this pillow is enough. Now we seal it around the perimeter, there should be no gaps. Although the log house is not heavy, the slab must work on the entire plane, the depth here is not as important as the uniform compaction of soil and sand.
Now they put the formwork around the future foundation, the height of the board is selected along the protruding part, in this case 150 mm.
Cards are knitted from 12mm reinforcement, with a cell of 300x300, laid on a prepared site, having previously laid distances from plastic, or shedding small nickels from a solution. After reinforcing, you can pour the solution. Such a foundation dries for a short time, 7-12 days.

Tip: In the summer, the sand dries quickly, moisten it with water before pouring concrete .

Tire foundation

A unique and at the same time strong foundation with your own hands can be built from car tires. This is an economical option for a base for a wooden building from a log house or sleepers. The method of laying the elements is as follows: marking is made for the contour of the bath. Then the top layer of the earth is removed, around the entire perimeter, 15 cm deep and 50 cm wide. The space is filled with crushed stone and sand, mixed in a ratio of 1: 1. The pillow is rammed under the tires with a manual rammer.

The required number of tires is prepared, about 20-25 pieces of the same size and height (it all depends on the size of the tires and the bath). The perimeter of the tires is laid out so that they lie tightly to each other.

Now we insert the threaded studs, tie them to the reinforcement threaded through the tires. To them we will attach the supporting structure of sleepers, timber. The depth of the studs should be for the entire thickness of the tires. The height of such anchors must be at least 250 mm in order to be able to screw the bearing beam for the log house or sleepers.

It is advisable to throw reinforcement around the entire perimeter and diagonally, and then fill in the tire space itself. Reinforcement can be carried out directly through the body of the tires by drilling holes and threading the reinforcement through the entire perimeter, so there is no need to strap the outside with a channel or corner.

You can make a set of blocks from tires and bury them directly into the ground. At the same time, the price of construction will be noticeably reduced, there is no need to pour a large slab to build a building from foam blocks or expanded clay concrete blocks. The device of load-bearing elements from tires is one of the cheapest and most simple options, which is not inferior in quality to slab. This is an ideal foundation for a bath from a bar, sleepers or under a solid wooden house(log house).

You can use a block version of the foundation of tires, where the marking is carried out in the same way as in other cases, but no pipes, piles, concrete blocks are needed, and expensive reinforcement is not required.

A set of tires (4-5 pieces), placed on top of each other, will serve as a support for a log house or sleepers, instead of pipes and formwork. The terms for the construction of such supports are minimal, the foundation of tires dries quickly, since there is no large volume concrete in the ground, and after a couple of days, further installation of a frame bath or a wooden frame can be carried out.

Wooden base repair

Sometimes the foundation for the bath is prepared from a thick beam, concreted directly into the ground, and sometimes a monolithic version is equipped. You need to know some little things before you properly repair the foundation of the bath or build a new foundation for the bath with your own hands:

For example, wooden structure from sleepers or a log house is pulled together from the outside with brackets in the places of their subsidence. How to tighten the frame, how many staples you need, you can calculate. With other foundations a little more difficult. You need to know how much the concrete itself dries, and only then mount the log house or beams. If the bearing blocks burst during installation and their height is small, it is possible to add a reinforcing layer of concrete around the blocks, filling in all the cracks formed in the column.
Deciding to make the foundation of the bath yourself, you will not only save a lot of money, but also get a good experience. It is not difficult to build a monolithic or any other foundation with your own hands, you just need to go through all the stages of construction in turn and not violate the technology.
Make the right calculation, markup for construction, excavation, reinforcement, insulation. Do all the necessary waterproofing work. It will not be superfluous to consult with builders (developers) who have been building this type of foundation for a long time and have good experience.

Decide what material to build the foundation from, from a log house, sleepers, what will be the height of the building, how many sleepers or timber are needed. Do you need a monolithic or concrete foundation for a log house, a wooden one from sleepers or a capital one for a construction of foam blocks.

Knowing how to make a foundation for a bath is not all, it is necessary to carry out preliminary calculations, and only then can you start building it with confidence. It is up to you to decide which foundation is better for a bath, but it is better to calculate how much materials you need for this in advance and draw its device. After a simple calculation, you can do everything perfectly, because you won’t need heavy equipment here, except for a concrete mixer with a wooden chute and a drain for concrete.