Installation of a plastic drainage system. Plastic gutters - lightweight and durable design How to protect gutters from overflowing

The work of the drainage system of the roof is almost invisible? until water begins to flow from the gutters under the threshold and foundation of the house. The cause of leaks can be depressurization of the seams or a defect in the drain itself. Sometimes this happens if sealant was not used at all during the installation of the drain due to economy. The use of the same sealant again will help to fix this and that problem, only the entire system will have to be disassembled and reassembled.

The most suitable sealants for the installation of gutters

It is reasonable to start a review of gutter sealant by determining what kind of substance it is. Their appearance resembles a thick mastic or paste. The viscosity of the sealant is given by polymer additives or oligomers. Mastic is applied to any connection, as a result of which the joint is sealed. Sealant after hardening firmly adheres to the surface of the treated object. It turns out a kind of waterproofing of the seam of the connected parts, which prevents the penetration of moisture.

On the shelves of retail outlets you can find a huge variety of sealants for different types works. In wide consumption, 4 types of mastic are usually used, made on the basis of different components. Which one is better suited for sealing drains, we will now try to find out.

One of the most used sealing mastics is considered to be silicone sealant. After it hardens, a strong elastic seam is formed on the surface of the object. Mastic can be white color or transparent. The basis of the paste is silicone rubber. For ease of use, it is most often sold in plastic tubes with a capacity of 310 mm. It is enough to insert the balloon into a special gun nozzle, and the sealant can be used. Sometimes you can find other packaging of pasta on the shelves, for example, like tubes of toothpaste.

Silicone sealant is produced in two types:

• Acetate composition Designed for use on smooth surfaces. Mastic is characterized by a pungent odor, however, it tends to quickly disappear.
• Neutral composition has a lower adhesion strength to the surface of the object, so it is often used for interior work. Mastic is ideal for the bathroom and kitchen. Excellent adhesion to tiles, wood, glass.

Silicone sealant is often used in the assembly of porches, greenhouses, gutter systems and other structures where waterproofing of joints is required.

Any acrylic-based sealant is less flexible than silicone, but adheres well to plastic. However, acrylic has a significant disadvantage - it dissolves in water. As a mastic for connecting drains, acrylic sealant does not fit. Moisture intolerance is explained by the base of the mastic, consisting of an aqueous dispersion. Such a paste is better suited as a sealant for sealing joints of any structures. These can be cracks in door and window jambs, as well as any other non-damp places.

Now in retail outlets you can find white acrylic sealants with the inscription - moisture resistant. Mastic is really resistant to moisture after complete hardening. However, such contact can only be short-term. From long exposure to water, even a hardened acrylic layer will dissolve. Moisture resistant acrylic sealant is not suitable for sealing or patching a gutter. It is undesirable even to use mastic in the kitchen and in the bathroom.

The basis of polyurethane mastic is polymerized resin. The sealant withstands low temperatures. It is successfully used for sealing inter-panel joints, double-glazed windows of buildings with a swimming pool or a winter garden.

Polyurethane mastic is produced in two types:

• Sealing paste designed for use on a dry surface. It's a kind of sealer. Such a sealant is not suitable for drains.
• Waterproofing paste can be used in humid environments and even long contact with water. This type of polyurethane sealant is suitable for processing drain joints.

Often polyurethane mastic is used to seal the roof, but for this purpose a substance with a hardness index of PU 15 is used. The sealant is characterized by rapid hardening, resistance to moisture and chemicals, long service life. The solidified substance can be successfully dyed.

Attention! Among other mastics, polyurethane sealant is considered the best due to its versatility of use. The paste has excellent adhesion to wood, metal, tile roofing.

The only drawback of the sealant is the high cost. Because of this, polyurethane paste is practically not used in the installation of drainage systems.

The basis of mastic is modified bitumen. Due to the addition of a metallic pigment, some types of bituminous pastes have an aluminum tint. The scope of the sealant is wide: sealing and sealing chimneys, drains, air ducts, ridges, and other structures.

Bituminous pastes are characterized by increased resistance to water and good elasticity. Mastic has increased adhesion to the wet surface of the object, and after hardening it can be painted. Affordable price has made the sealant popular in the installation of drainage systems. Among many brands, Icopal sealant has an increased consumer demand due to its high quality.

There are bituminous pastes specially designed for roofing. They are not even affected by gasoline, thinner, machine oil and other chemicals.

The disadvantage of bituminous pastes is an ugly black color, despite the addition of pigments. Plus - bitumen is afraid of exposure to high temperatures, from which it begins to melt.

Attention! All bitumen-based sealants are toxic. They are only allowed to be used outdoors.

Butyl-based mastic is the ideal solution for sealing joints with a gutter. The paste has excellent adhesion to aluminium, PVC, galvanization, well tolerates painting with latex and oil paint. The white sealant is characterized high rate elasticity, resistance to moisture and negative temperatures. In addition to sealing joints, the paste is ideal for repairing deformed gutters. Sealant can be used to seal small cracks, and even small holes.

Attention! It is possible to work as a sealant at low temperatures, but in order for the paste to be squeezed out better from the tube, it must first be kept at room temperature.

The instructions for applying the sealant are simple:

• It is optimal to carry out work with mastic at a temperature above +4 ° C. Old accumulations of paint, putty and other dirt are removed from the surface of the workpiece. If the metal drain has corroded, the rust is cleaned with a metal brush. The completely cleaned surface is left to dry.
• A tube aged at room temperature is inserted into the gun. There are notches on the plastic tip, each of which is designed for a certain thickness of mastic extrusion. With a sharp knife, cut off the nose of the tip along the required notch, and also remove the membrane at the end of the thread of the tube, which prevents the sealant from being squeezed out.
• Having screwed the tip onto the thread of the cylinder, they begin to squeeze the sealant onto the junction of the drain with the trigger of the pistol. When sealing a hole in the gutter with a diameter of more than 12 mm, a tire is applied from a piece of plastic or metal.

The paste will begin to harden after 5 minutes. During this time, it is necessary to remove the excess protruding at the joints of the gutters, and where the patches were installed, the mastic is smoothed with a scraper. The joint will gain full strength in 5 days, but it is possible to paint the frozen layer in a day. The sealant can also be used in a humid environment, but cure time is increased by 10%. The approximate consumption of sealant with a layer thickness of 6.5 mm is 10 p.m. If necessary, remove the hardened layer using a cleaner of the same company or any mineral solvent.

When is it necessary to use sealant when installing gutters?

The use of sealant to connect the joints of drains is justified in case of their self-manufacturing. Gutters are often cut out of PVC due to cost savings. sewer pipes 100 mm in diameter. The joints of each such gutter are fastened with self-tapping screws, and so that they do not leak, they are additionally coated with silicone or bituminous sealant.

Factory drains are equipped with connecting locks with sealing rubber bands. A strong connection does not leak even without mastic treatment. But for reliability, it does not hurt to lubricate the seal with the same silicone. Usually, the contents of 1 tube with a capacity of 0.3 liters are enough for 10 locks.

The video shows the process of sealing the roof and drain:

Regardless of the quality of the gutters, depressurization of the seams will lead to a disruption in the performance of the entire system. Saving on sealant is unreasonable and unprofitable.

The gutter is an integral element of the roof, the main task of which is the collection and removal of rainfall. There are the most different materials manufacturing structures, but recently plastic gutters have begun to gain popularity. And we'll tell you why.

The main advantages of the plastic gutters system

To begin with, it should be noted the high reliability of plastic products. This factor is one of the most important, because even with the minimum cost of the entire system, its installation and repair can be quite difficult. Judging by this criterion, galvanized steel gutters are no longer so attractive, and plastic, on the contrary, has all the necessary qualities. For example, the service life of such products reaches an average of 20-25 years, while during the entire period of operation, all parts of the structure retain their characteristics with minimal maintenance.

The second important advantage is climate resilience. If we talk about metal, then, being exposed to water and air, it begins to rust over time - steel products are protected from the appearance of red spots by a thin layer of a special coating. In the presence of cracks and scratches, the coating loses its protective properties, and the entire drain is covered with rust from the inside. Plastic gutters do not require any protection and do not lose their properties even in a wide temperature range (from -40°C to +50°C).

Also an important feature of modern plastic pipes for the drain is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, which negatively affects most synthetic materials. Another plus is that plastic has low adhesive properties, and therefore ice will not accumulate in such a drain. Plastic gutters can also have a variety of appearance. This question is very relevant because they are important element decoration of the building and can not only decorate the facade, but also spoil it.

Plastic products open up the widest possibilities for designers, since you can easily choose not only the color, but also the shape of the products.

The fourth and rather important advantage plastic system drainage from roofs in that they have an exceptionally low weight - it does not even make sense to compare them with metal systems. In addition, the low weight of the products greatly facilitates their installation. So, in order to correctly assemble and install the system, you do not need to have specialized knowledge and equipment - even a non-specialist will cope with the work, and this will not affect the service life of the pipes in any way.

Are there any disadvantages of plastic products?

Plastic gutters have not only visible advantages, but also disadvantages, which also need to be remembered when choosing a material. The main disadvantages include the following:

Stages of installation of a plastic drain

Plastic gutters are installed in several stages. First of all, you need to determine the installation locations of the funnels, after which the length and the required number of gutters and the pipes themselves are calculated.

If you use a funnel as a supporting structural element, then you first need to install it. Otherwise, you can not do without mounting brackets for fixing the gutter on the frontal board. By the way, the brackets can be adjusted during fastening, making it easy to achieve the required slope of the gutter (about 3-5%). The distance between the brackets should not be less than 0.5 m, while they must be in contact with the gutter.

The installation of the gutter itself starts from the receiving funnel, and all elements of the system are fastened together either with couplings or with special glue. The next step is the installation of downpipes and their fixation to the wall using couplings. Do not forget to protect the gutter from debris, for which you need to use a mesh that is inserted inside the gutter and fixed with plastic clips.

An unusual solution - installing a drain from plastic bottles

A drainage system for a roof made of plastic products is a rather original option that can be used for various outbuildings on the site, sheds, outbuildings or. Main condition - a large number of plastic bottles. The required amount can be quite simply calculated, since to equip the system we need only the central part of the container, the length of which is on average 20 cm - what will be the length of the pipe, take as many bottles.

Since in the system water exits the pipes under the influence of gravity, experts recommend taking bottles whose central part does not have protrusions or other obstacles for water. Otherwise, in winter, a layer of ice crust will begin to accumulate inside the drain, which can cause the destruction of the system. PET bottles with a cylindrical middle part are best suited. It is desirable to choose a dark color so that small debris and smudges inside the pipe are not visible. For implementation

We also need a construction stapler, with which we will connect the elements of our structure, wire to attach the structure itself to the roof. And, of course, scissors and a knife - these tools will be needed to cut plastic containers. We will use a flat cylindrical part as a horizontal gutter, and instead of plugs that will not allow water to pass further, it is best to take bottles with the back part saved.

How to install a drain from plastic bottles - step by step diagram

Step 1: Preparatory Stage

We measure the length of the pipe and create a simple drawing of the future design. Despite the fact that the drain will be located almost under the roof, you need to put all the bottles in order - clean them of dirt and wash off the labels, for which just soak the container for 1-2 hours in warm soapy water. Cut off the bottom and neck of each container. To get part of the gutter, cut one of the resulting cylinders along the seam - you should end up with a folded plastic rectangle.

Step 2: Connecting the parts and installing the drain

We connect all the details of our design with an overlap construction stapler so that the double strip is at least 1 cm. For reliability, several holes can be made in the overlap strip by stitching it with wire. If you are afraid that water will ooze through them, for the first time you can cover them with plasticine - after a while everything will become overgrown with dirt, forming a natural insulation.

Next we attach the drain to the roof. We make holes in the slate and in the gutter through an equal distance, using a soldering iron for this. The main thing is that the holes are located opposite each other. In them we thread the wire and twist it well. Thus, the entire drain will be held on the wire retainer.

Step 3: Create a branch

To prevent water from flowing down the walls, you can not do without a drain. To do this, cut off the neck of one of the bottles, and make a cylinder from the second (remove the bottom and neck). The bottles need to be connected, while from the first one it is necessary to cut a hole of the same diameter as the rest of the containers - the edge of the gutter will enter there.

What you need to pay attention to when installing a steel gutter.

Of course, all builders and engineers, as well as home owners who are convinced of the effectiveness of the drainage system, will unanimously agree with this.

Firstly, water freely flowing from the roof eaves will fall on the walls of the house, any material will suffer from this, be it brick, concrete, wood or cement plaster.

Secondly, moisture will inevitably seep into the ground, which over time can lead to subsidence of the blind area and even the foundation of the house.

Thirdly, in the absence of high-quality waterproofing of the foundation, water will enter the underground premises of the house - the basement or underground, because of this, the structures will rot, and the microclimate will deteriorate in the house itself.

Finally, it is worth noting the decorative properties of the drain, the gutter and pipes are traditional architectural elements buildings, thanks to their presence, the house looks more aesthetically pleasing and thorough. If your home still doesn't have a gutter system, it's not too late to install one. You can do this yourself, but it is better to turn to professionals, they will calculate, based on the catchment area, the required number of gutters and pipes, as well as their diameter, select the necessary fasteners and parts that ensure structural rigidity.

For the production of drainage systems today, galvanized steel with a polymer coating, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), copper and zinc-titanium alloy are used. Each of the materials has its own characteristics. The most common so far are steel gutters.

They are affordable, but when purchasing them, you need to pay close attention to the thickness of the metal and the type polymer coating, resistance to corrosion, mechanical stress, ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes largely depends on the latter. PVC gutter systems are quite actively used, they are inexpensive, not subject to corrosion, resistant to precipitation and UV radiation, as well as mechanical damage. Their weak side is the color that fades under the rays of the sun; after 2-3 years, plastic gutters lose their appearance.

Pipes and gutters made of copper and zinc-titanium look respectable, moreover, they are practically resistant to corrosion. However, the cost of such drains is quite high, and they require the most careful handling, since both copper and zinc are soft metals.

What you need to pay attention to when installing a steel gutter.

First, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material. During installation and during operation, steel gutters and pipes are relatively easy to scratch and bend. In most cases, the original appearance of bent parts can no longer be returned, they must be replaced. Deep scratches must be coated with polymer paint to prevent rust.

How do plastic drainage systems behave during installation and operation?

Gutter systems made of PVC have proven themselves well. They, in comparison with steel, are not subject to corrosion, they make much less noise during rain. In addition, plastic has “shape memory”, that is, it is able to take on its original configuration after deforming loads. The presence of plasticizing additives allows PVC gutters to maintain high impact resistance even at low temperatures. but weaknesses plastic gutters also have.

The main disadvantage is a significant change in size with temperature changes (the change in length is approximately 0.7 mm per 1 linear meter with a temperature fluctuation of 10 ° C).

To level it, special compensatory elements and constructive measures are needed. A minus that is not so serious, but unpleasant for the owners, is the loss of the original color of the plastic parts (the side of the gutters and pipes facing the sun acquires an ashy hue over time). The more expensive the drain, the higher its color fastness, cheap products lose their appearance after 2-3 years.

What is the best drain for composite shingles?

Metal, especially copper or zinc-titanium (zinc alloy with a small amount of copper and titanium), will be most harmoniously combined with composite tiles. These materials are distinguished by a noble appearance, over time they become covered with a patina, but often they are already sold “aged”. Copper and zinc-titanium are practically resistant to corrosion, but copper, compared to steel, has a higher thermal expansion, which must be compensated for by structural measures, such as the use of special brackets. Often in the assortment of parts for such systems there are special fasteners with seals. Transportation and installation of gutters made of copper and zinc-titanium must be carried out with great care - if the parts are bent, it will be very difficult for them to return to their previous shape due to the softness of the material.

The drainage system includes a whole set of elements, primarily gutters and pipes, as well as mounting brackets, fittings, plugs, corners, elbows, funnels, overflow restrictors, drains, mounting clamps, etc. As a rule, there are gutters with a diameter of 125, 132, 150, 170, 180 mm and pipes - 82, 87, 90, 100,110 mm. The most common length of gutters and pipes is up to 4 m.

As for the other parts, their availability in the kit depends on the manufacturer. The wider the range, the easier it will be to arrange a gutter system on the roof of a complex configuration. When purchasing brackets, be sure to ask what type of installation they are designed for and whether they are suitable for you - you often come across those that can only be used for attaching to a cornice overhang or only to the first row of the crate.

Pay attention to additional accessories, they will make the drain more reliable. So, a special mesh insert that protects against fallen leaves will prevent clogging of the pipe. When drawing up an estimate, take into account all the elements you need - the total price of fasteners may be higher than the cost of pipes and gutters.

Details of the drainage system: 1-8 - gutter holders; 9.11 - gutters; 10 - gutter connector; 12 - plug; 13 - connector bracket; 14 - funnel; 15.16 - gutter corners; 17.19 - elbows, 18 - branch pipe; 20-collector pipe with spout; 21,22 - limiters of the overflow of the gutter; 23.24 - pipe clamps. 25 - pipe; 26 - tee; 27 - coupling; 28 - universal adapter; 29.32 - drainage trawls; 30 - clamp bracket; 31 - drain elbow.

How to determine the size and number of gutters and pipes?

When planning a drainage system, one should focus mainly on the catchment area. This is understood as either the area of ​​​​the roof slope, or the projection of the slope onto a horizontal surface. Any serious company has technical documentation containing information on what catchment area pipes and gutters of certain diameters are designed for. Thus, German companies, in accordance with the DIN 18460 standard, determine the number of parts as follows:

from a roof with a slope projection area of ​​​​not more than 150 m2, water can be drained through one pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a gutter with a diameter of 150 mm. It should also be taken into account that the throughput of the pipe depends on the diameter, length and number of gutters that it serves. There are other factors that affect the capacity of the gutter system, such as roof configuration, length and slope of the slope.

It is recommended to install a gutter system in two stages: hang gutters during roofing work, and install pipes after finishing the walls.

The first stage (installation of gutters).

1. Attach the first gutter holder so that the outer edge of the gutter is 30 mm below the roof slope (support wedges are used to compensate for the slope of the windboard).

2. Set the last holder to the water level 20 mm lower than the first one (total length of the gutter is 6 m).

3. Pull the cord between the shelves of the outer holders and, guided by it, screw the remaining holders.

4. Make a markup, cut a hole for the water intake funnel with a hacksaw.

5. Glue the funnel and gutter plugs with dichloroethane adhesive.

6. Install the chute by snapping it into the holders one by one.

The second stage (pipe fixing).

7. Drill holes in the walls, screw the brackets with screws 120 mm long and 6 mm in diameter, attach pipes to them with clamps.

8. From two elbows and a branch pipe, assemble a “swan neck”. Use glue to attach the drain elbow.

Water should be diverted from the house by at least 3-4 m. In no case should it be left to drain onto the blind area, then it will inevitably seep into the basement and into the foundation. Therefore, the drainage device will not bring the desired benefit. In addition to the drainage system itself, it is necessary to provide for a water drainage system. The easiest option is to arrange surface drainage along the blind area. This will require ready-made drainage channels with protective gratings made of corrosion-resistant materials (polymer concrete, plastic). If ground water on the site lie high, a closed drainage system is preferable (to drain the soil around the house) with point surface receivers under the spouts of the pipes roof drain. Drainage systems allow you to direct water into roadside ditches or into a receiving well on the site.

Do I need maintenance of the gutter system in the winter?

In winter, the drainage system is subjected to heavy loads. Snow sliding down the slope of the roof accumulates in the gutters. The water formed during the melting of snow flows there and forms ice. Icicles hanging from the gutters can eventually lead to deformation of the structure. The optimal solution to the problem is the installation of an anti-icing system consisting of heating cables. They are allowed along the edge of the roof, gutters and downpipes. But such a system is quite expensive, and it also requires certain energy costs. Therefore, it will be cheaper and easier to adhere to certain rules.

The first is to correctly insulate the roof, providing ventilation roof space.

The second is to place the fasteners for gutters and pipes in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

An additional, but by no means superfluous measure is to install snow-retaining bumpers along the edges of the slopes.

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Gutter systems are needed to protect the roof from moisture - they must quickly remove water from the roof. Most of the drains serve 5-12 years - the period depends on the manufacturer, the correct installation and compliance with the requirements for operation. It usually happens that a plastic or metal drain in a couple of years cannot fulfill its purpose with high quality. There are many nuances that need to be taken into account when installing a drain - only then it will last for many years without loss of performance.

Types of drainage systems

Drainage systems are classified:

• according to the material of manufacture;
• by pipe diameter;
• by the diameter of the gutter.

Plastic gutters are no less popular. They are easy to install, and a variety of colors makes it easy to choose the right option for the roof. The sizes of the systems can also be different, so that you can choose the design according to the type of roof. The cost of plastic gutters depends on the polymer material used in their production - there are both cheap and more expensive options.

The advantages of such drainage systems include ease of installation, durability, good decorative qualities. But there are also disadvantages: this is fragility, change in shape and color if installed incorrectly, poor resistance to ultraviolet radiation. The reliability of the drainage system depends not only on the correct installation, but also on the choice of material.

Most best option drain - metal, coated with polymers. It is more expensive compared to the plastic counterpart, but thanks to the metal base, the shape is well preserved. And the polymer base covering the metal prevents corrosion. Today, manufacturers offer an extensive range of polymer coating colors, so it will not be difficult to choose the shade that will be in harmony with the style of the house.

Calculation of system elements

It is important to correctly calculate the throughput of the drain - only then will it effectively cope with the load and remove rainfall from the roof well. If water does not linger on the roof, you will not have to face such troubles as leaks and corrosion. Accordingly, roofing repairs will not be required soon.

To calculate the parameters of the drainage system, it is necessary to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof and the height of the house. In addition, it is required to calculate the dimensions of the gutter. One element has a certain length, so you have to purchase several sections. If the area of ​​​​the house is more than a hundred meters of "squares", it is recommended to buy a gutter of maximum diameter.

For example, you can calculate the drain for a house with a wall height of 4.5 meters and a roof slope width of 9 meters.

To create a drainage system you will need:

For work you will need:

• building level;
• construction knife;
• marker;
• perforator;
• plumb;
• drill;
• Bulgarian.

How to install a drainage system

Regardless of whether the installation of the drainage system is made of plastic or metal, the general principles of the work are the same. First install the fasteners for the gutter. There are various types of fasteners that allow you to mount the gutter on a truss structure or wall. A slight slope of several degrees is set towards the installation of the downpipe. Due to this, sediments are quickly transported into the pipe, while not overflowing over the edges of the gutter. As a result, there will be no leaks and wetting of the walls of the house.

The brackets are evenly distributed along the wall, keeping a distance of 50-60 centimeters between them. On the roof structure brackets are attached to each filly with self-tapping screws. For convenience, use a conventional drill.

In places of installation of downpipes, water intake funnels are installed. If in plastic gutters water inlets will be used as a connector with a gutter, then work begins with their installation. At the ends of these funnels there are special devices - places where glue is applied or rubber seals are placed (for metal systems). With the help of brackets, these funnels are attached to roof structure.

After fixing the brackets, a receiving funnel is equipped. Before installing the gutter, a hole is cut out at the attachment point of the funnel and the contour of the future funnel is applied to it.

PVC drain is fixed every 50-60 centimeters, metal - 70-150 centimeters. Fasteners are made from 2-3 millimeters per linear meter towards the funnel. Most specialists assemble gutters with funnels and plugs on the ground, and then lift them up and attach them to the brackets, but it’s better not to do it yourself - in order to simultaneously lift the assembled structure from two sides, you need several people and two ladders. For this reason, it is recommended to connect elements immediately at the top. Installation of plastic structures is not difficult - modern systems in the assembly they resemble children's designers. In order for all fasteners to be evenly distributed along the wall, they must be placed at a distance of 80-100 centimeters from each other. For reliable fastening of the brackets to the wall, holes should be made in advance with a puncher. The correct installation of the vertical brackets can be checked using a plumb bob.

On the final stage measure the desired length of pipe, cut off the excess and attach to the wall. In order to drain water from the walls and foundation of the house, a turn is put on the lower end and a small part of the pipe is added. It is advisable to attach a special grate to it, which will help to avoid debris from entering it. Otherwise, over time, plastic drainpipes will become clogged with leaves and become clogged - of course, in this case, water drainage will become inefficient.

Electric heating of gutters

In the spring, with the onset of warm days, the snow on the roof begins to melt, and if PVC and other gutter systems are iced over, water will flow over the edge. The same thing happens in winter in case of thaws. The transfusion of melt water is fraught not only with leaks, but also with the formation of icicles, which can later fall on the head. Also, the mass of ice may exceed the permissible load on the parts of the gutter and fasteners, as a result of which the plastic gutter system will be damaged.

The heating cables are mounted on special brackets inside the gutters; they are not at the bottom, but rise above it at a distance equal to about half the radius of the element section. They also start heating in the drainpipes (read more: "").

Gutter cleaning with anti-icing systems has its own characteristics. First of all, do not use sharp tools that can damage the cable sheath. After cleaning, be sure to inspect them and fasteners. After winter, it is sometimes necessary to correct the cable so that it does not overlap. Once every three years, specialists must check the functioning.

Ensuring drainage from the foundation

Care of drainage systems

Plastic roof gutters, like metal ones, need special care. First of all, in order for the drain to quickly transport water from the roof, it is necessary to periodically inspect all the elements included in it. It is advisable to check the condition of the system in autumn and spring. The most dangerous time for a drain is winter. Due to the formation of ice, the elements can become cracked and deformed. Therefore, with the onset of spring, when it gets warmer, it is necessary to check the condition of the drain. Inspection in early autumn is a must because rainfall is high at this time of the year and inefficient water drainage will lead to roof leaks. Also at this time of year, the system is checked for debris. If a blockage is detected, the system is cleaned, and if there are cracks, repairs are made (read: "").

When checking, be sure to inspect the condition of the clamps and brackets - over time they can loosen, and poorly fixed elements of the drain are an increased danger.

The drainage system is necessary for the removal of precipitation from pitched roofs. If all the rules of installation and operation are observed, its service life is from 5 to 12 years. It often happens that recently installed system damaged and not only looks ugly, but also does not fulfill its main function. This is due to violations of the installation and installation technologies. This article will help you understand the basic rules for installing a plastic gutter system, providing reliable performance gutter for the entire warranty period and even longer.

All manufacturers of drainage systems must attach installation instructions, which indicate all the features and nuances. Therefore, when buying, be sure to ask the seller for instructions. But all systems have general rules installations that should not be neglected.

The main function of drainage is pipes and gutters. In order to attach them to the roof or connect them to each other, various accessories are used. These include: brackets, plugs, elbows, funnels, and more. Therefore, the procedure for installing a plastic gutter system consists in attaching accessories and basic elements with a clear sequence.

See also: How.

Installation of a plastic drainage system

Stage 1. Installation of water intake funnels

It is necessary to determine the number and location of downpipes. After that, in those places where the drains will be located, you need to install water intake funnels. Installation begins with the funnels in those systems in which the inlet funnels also perform the function of a gutter connector. At the ends of the funnel in this case there are devices that hermetically connect it to the gutter. For adhesive systems, this may be the place where the adhesive is applied, or rubber seals for other types of plastic gutters. The funnels are independently attached to the roof structure using brackets. Therefore, it is with them that the installation of the drainage system begins.

Such funnels are fastened with brackets to the roof structure. Therefore, the installation begins with them. If you purchased a drainage system with such funnels that need to be attached directly to the gutter, and not to the roof structure, then in this case the water inlets are mounted after the gutters are installed.

In the place where the water intake funnel is attached, before mounting the gutter, you need to cut a hole. To do this, you need to apply a contour, cut a hole with a fine-toothed hacksaw and clean the edges. After that, the funnel can be attached to the gutter.

Stage 2. Mounting brackets

It is necessary to fasten the brackets (gutter holders) at the distance recommended in the installation instructions. As a rule, plastic drains require a distance of 50-60 cm. It is necessary to fix the brackets in such a way that the slope of the gutters to the funnel is about 2-3 mm. To do this, the end holder of the gutter is installed in highest point, a cord is pulled between it and the funnel, and, focusing on it, the remaining brackets are attached.

The holders must be mounted on the wind (frontal) board. Before installation, make sure that it is level. An unevenly installed front board can adversely affect plastic gutters and their operation. If at the time when you are installing the plastic drainage system, it has not yet been laid roofing, then the brackets can be mounted on the rafter leg.

Usually, plastic gutter holders are used for mounting on a windboard, and metal ones are used for mounting to rafters. On average, one holder can withstand up to 75 kg. Often this figure misleads many, and they make, in their opinion, the right decision in terms of savings - to install a smaller number of holders. This is one of the main mistakes when installing a drainage system. Because it is not the weight that the bracket can support that matters, but the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport of the gutter.

If this factor is not taken into account, the consequences will be very deplorable: the gutters are twisted, then sag, and after some time they simply break off. Therefore, such "savings" will result in a partial or even complete replacement of holders and gutters.

Stage 3. Installation of the gutter

Now you need to lay the gutters in the holders, starting from the funnel. Firmly insert the edge of the gutter into the latch located on the edge of the gutter holder, then press lightly to snap the structure into place. Tightly connect the gutters to each other using soldering joints, special adhesives or connecting elements (depending on the type of system chosen). And do not forget that in systems with adhesive bonding, after complete assembly, it will no longer be possible to dismantle or re-install.

In order to cut the gutters of the plastic drainage system, you must use a grinder or a hacksaw. Then clean up the burrs with a file.

When installing the gutter, it is necessary to place its edge below the line of continuation of the roof. This will avoid the "transfusion" of water during a downpour. Also, there will be a minimum amount of snow sliding from the roof.

Stage 4. Installation of a dropper

Drip installation in progress. It provides a free exit of water from the under-roof space and directs it to the gutters. The dropper is mounted to rafter leg, going inside the gutter by 1.5-2 cm.

Stage 5. Mounting the side plugs

Now you need to fix the corners to the gutters in those places where you need to go around the protruding parts of the facade or the corner of the house. After that, side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter.

Stage 6. Installation of plastic gutters

We begin to mount plastic gutters. This is done from the funnel, that is, from top to bottom. The pipes must be attached to the wall so that the distance between them is from 3 to 8 cm.

Stage 7. Assembly of the drainage system

Using couplings, it is necessary to assemble the pipes in one piece and attach them to the wall with clamps every 1-2 m (see the supplier's recommendations in the instructions).

Stage 8. Installation of tees

If necessary, tees (pipe splitters) are installed at this stage.

Stage 9. Installation of the drain

Installation of a drainpipe outlet (drain). Leave at least 30 cm between the soil and the drain. If you plan to install a linear drainage system, then leave 15 cm.

Gutters are mounted using the following tools:

1. Roulette.
2. Ruler.
3. Pencil.
4. Hammer.
5. Cord.
6. Hacksaw.
7. Screwdriver.

Installation of the drainage system and temperature conditions

Do not install plastic gutters at temperatures below 5˚C. Otherwise, when cutting or fastening the pipes, they may crack from mechanical stress. Many plastic gutters cannot be stored in the open sun in their packaging.

Drainage pollution

When debris or leaves enter the gutter, the flow of water through the gutter is restricted. Because of this, the system overflows, and in the future the walls of the building get wet, and over time, the foundation may be washed away. To prevent such undesirable consequences, it is enough just to install a leaf catcher. And plastic gutters are protected from clogging by installing a garbage collector and leaves directly into the water intake funnel.

Icing

This phenomenon is fraught with deformation and collapse of the entire system. To prevent it, a cable anti-icing system is installed. Beforehand, it is necessary to calculate the power of the heating cable and the required number of its lines. The cable can be with a regulator or self-regulating.

Overflow

Overflow occurs when pipes and gutters are not sized to handle the amount of rainfall that is possible in a particular area. To prevent overfilling, when choosing a system, be guided by the recommendations of the manufacturer from which you will purchase it.

Now you know all the basic nuances of installing a plastic gutter system. Follow the instructions carefully, and you will undoubtedly be able to mount plastic gutters in your home yourself.