A quick way to insulate the attic roof of a private house from the inside without extra costs - the scheme and technology of thermal insulation inside! Insulation of the roof of the attic from the inside Warming of the attic from the inside with ecowool with your own hands

Competently executed insulation of the attic roof is a guarantee of a comfortable atmosphere in this room, and a long service of interior decoration of the attic room. To make it warm and cozy in winter, and in the summer you are not disturbed by the heat and stuffy air, it is very important not only to choose the right thermal insulation materials, but also to mount them in compliance with the technology. Today we will tell you how to insulate an attic roof with your own hands, which heaters are best suited for this purpose, and most importantly - how to avoid common mistakes during installation, which reduce all efforts to almost zero result. You will learn all the most important about insulating the attic roof - the video clips attached to the article will clearly demonstrate all the subtleties of this work.

Insulation of the attic roof has its own characteristics, due to the fact that the walls of the dwelling are directly adjacent to the roof, or rather, they actually form a single whole with it. That is why it is customary to pay close attention to the insulation of the attic roof from the inside, which allows you to ensure a normal microclimate in the room. Before starting a conversation about how to insulate the roof of an attic from the inside, let's figure out what layers the so-called "roofing pie" consists of, and why it is so important to arrange these layers in the right sequence:

The diagram shows the correct order of arrangement of the elements of the thermal insulation system of the attic roof

What is the reason for exactly this arrangement of layers? The elementary laws of physics. Let's imagine that a decent layer of snow fell in winter, which, by the way, is a natural heat insulator. As a result of the vital activity of people living in an attic house, warm air will rise from the inside to the surface of the roof. The snow covering it will melt. And as soon as the outside temperature drops below zero, a crust of ice forms, which no longer has any heat-insulating properties. The essence correct insulation the roof of the attic is to prevent snow from melting in winter, and the penetration of scorching heat in summer.

Air movement pattern in under-roof space, and the work of the vapor barrier when insulating the attic roof

In more detail about the structure of the "roofing pie" and the principles of the correct operation of all its components, you will learn from this informative video:

The better to insulate the attic roof: the choice of insulation

There are four most important criteria, based on which it is necessary to choose a high-quality insulation for the attic roof:

• Thermal conductivity;
• Moisture resistance;
• Fire safety;
• Ecological cleanliness.

The first parameter can be called decisive, since it is precisely on how low the thermal conductivity of the material you have chosen that its thickness, the number of layers, and most importantly, its efficiency depend.

Important Insulation for an attic roof with a thermal conductivity coefficient of no higher than 0.05 W / m * K can be considered sufficiently high-quality and reliable.

The second indicator is also important, especially for a mansard rafter system made of wood. The resistance of the insulation to moisture will allow you to worry less about the possibility of damage and decay of wood. Why the fire safety of insulating materials is important is probably unnecessary to say. And, finally, the ecological cleanliness of the insulation in the case of attic rooms also has great importance, especially if it is a bedroom or a children's room in the attic.

Comparative table of building and finishing materials, indicating the coefficient of their thermal conductivity

As follows from the picture above, insulating an attic roof with ecowool is an excellent solution, since this mineral insulation meets all four criteria for choosing a material. However, it cannot be called the most affordable, so many craftsmen refuse to use ecowool in favor of cheaper, but no less effective insulation. For example, insulating the attic roof with polyurethane foam allows you to achieve the same excellent effect, while saving money. Among the effective mineral and polymer insulation, you can also name:

• Basalt wool;
• Glass wool;
• Extruded polystyrene foam;
• Styrofoam.

By the way, it is the foam insulation of the attic roof that can be called the most economical and simple method. But it is worth remembering that the foam does not allow steam to pass through, and moreover, rodents often settle in it. Expanded polystyrene can be called a more modern and technically advanced alternative to conventional foam. Select the best option insulation for the attic roof this video will help you:

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic with your own hands

It is not at all difficult to insulate the attic roof with your own hands, for this you do not need to have the skills of a professional builder. The specifics of the installation of thermal insulation entirely depends on the type of selected by you insulating material... If the attic roof is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool, the process will take a little longer than in the case of foam or polystyrene. The fact is that to achieve a good effect, cotton wool is laid in several layers, and requires additional vapor barrier, because it strongly absorbs moisture.

The technology of insulating an attic roof from the inside with mineral wool on the example of a broken line gable roof

The thickness of the mansard roof insulation is directly proportional to the value of its thermal conductivity, that is, the denser and more reliable the material, the less it will be needed. Usually, during the installation of thermal insulation, an additional layer is made of cotton wool, covering the rafters. But many owners of residential attics are categorically not satisfied with this, since rafter beams can act as an important decorative element of the future interior of the attic room. If you consider yourself one of such owners, extruded polystyrene foam is preferable for you, a small layer of which is laid between the rafters.

Advice Before starting work on the insulation of the roof, consider the future design of the attic room, and select the type and method of installation of thermal insulation that is best suited for your option of interior decoration.

For everyone who wants to know in detail how to insulate a mansard roof - the video below. This short film tells about the insulation of the roof of a wooden country house made of laminated veneer lumber with a gable roof just with the help of the most modern and high-quality thermal insulation material- extruded polystyrene foam.

1.Method for calculating the distance between the rafters

2. Rafter structure for corrugated board

3. Roof structure for ceramic tiles

4. Rafter structure for metal tiles

5. Rafter structure for ondulin

6. Roof structure for slate covering

7. Rafters for single-pitch and double-pitch roofs

The roof frame must be reliable and durable.

But it is difficult to achieve this without competently performed calculations. In the process of carrying out the calculations, it is determined at what distance to put the rafters on the roof.

What can an incorrect or inaccurate calculation of the loads to which the rafter structure will undergo? To the most negative consequences, ranging from deformation rafter legs and damage to the roof covering and ending with the collapse of the base of the roof frame. Therefore, when designing buildings, the list of mandatory calculations contains data on what the distance between the roof rafters should be.

There is a certain methodology that allows you to calculate this value.

Method for calculating the distance between the rafters

The distance between the roof rafters is called the rafter pitch. As a rule, the pitch of the rafter legs in the roof structure usually exceeds one meter, and the minimum gap ranges from 60 centimeters.

The calculation of the required number of rafters for a roof of a certain length and the pitch of the rafters is made as follows:

• before calculating the length of the rafters, measure the length of the slope along the eaves of the roof;
• the resulting value is divided by the selected distance between the rafters.

  For example, the step is one meter, so it must be divided by one, and if it is 60 centimeters, then the divisor will be 0.6;

• then one is added to the result, and the total is rounded up.

Thus, by simple calculations, the number of rafters that must be installed to equip one roof slope is determined.

After that, the length of the slope is divided by the received number of rafters, as a result of which the value of the center distance between the rafters, called the pitch, is obtained.

For example, with the length of the roof slope equal to 25.5 meters and a step length of 0.6 meters, the calculation is performed as follows:

25.5: 0.6 = 42.5 + 1 = 43.5, after rounding to the nearest integer, the result is 44 - the number of rafters required for the roof slope.

This simple technique, which allows you to determine through what distance the rafters for the roof are placed, does not take into account the peculiarities of the roofing material used.

Roof structure for corrugated board

The step of the rafter system when creating a roof from this material should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum step of the rafters under the corrugated board should be no more than 900 millimeters.

When the gap is larger, then it is necessary to install transverse boards with a large section. In this case, the section of the rafters themselves is selected in size

50x100 millimeters or 50x150 millimeters (read: "Installation and dimensions of roof rafters").

For laying the corrugated board, a lathing of boards of 30x100 millimeters is required, it is mounted with a 500-millimeter pitch or more, depending on the thickness of the roofing material and the height of the trapezoid.

When a crate is created for a corrugated board, the board overlooking the cornice should be 10-15 millimeters thicker than the rest. The structure of the battens must provide the possibility of a passage for fastening such vertical elements as ventilation pipes, chimney, etc.

Roof structure for ceramic tiles

Features of the design of rafters for laying ceramic tiles due to the fact that the raw material for its manufacture is clay - the material is quite heavy, its weight is 10 times more than that of metal tiles.

Thus, the load on the load-bearing roofing system per one square meter area is from 40 to 60 kilograms.

Rafters for such a frame system must be made of well-dried wood, the moisture content of which does not exceed 15%. For their production, a bar with a section of 50x150 millimeters or 60x180 millimeters (for reliability) is used.

In this case, the step of the rafter system is 80 - 130 centimeters, depending on the steepness of the roof slope. So with an angle of inclination equal to 15 degrees, the distance between the rafters is 80 centimeters, and at 75 degrees - 130 centimeters.

When the step between the rafters is calculated, experts take into account their length.

At the maximum value of the length of the elements, when performing work, the minimum distance between them is observed. With short rafters, it should be as large as possible.

Safe movement on a roof with a slope of less than 45 degrees can be done if the rafter step does not exceed 80-85 centimeters.

When arranging a ceramic roof, there is another feature - this is a certain step size of the sheathing, with which it is stuffed onto the rafters. It depends on the type of shingles purchased.

Most in a simple way it is possible to calculate the pitch of the lathing, given that most of the tiles are 400 millimeters long, and the overlap during laying is from 55 to 90 millimeters.

Therefore, in this case, the pitch of the lathing is equal to the length of the tiles minus the overlap, which is 310-345 millimeters (read: "Roof lathing for metal tiles: installation and fastening").

When the roof has several slopes as in the photo, the pitch of the sheathing and the number of rows of tiles are calculated for each step of the rafters separately.

Insulation of the attic roof: video instruction

The rows are marked with a cord attached to a counter-lattice, which is located on opposite sides of the roof slope (see also the article: "Step of the lathing under the corrugated board").

Roof structure for metal tiles

In the construction of suburban private real estate, metal roofing can be found most often.

This roofing material It is similar to a flooring made of clay tiles, but in comparison with it it has a number of advantages. Sheet metal shingles are easy to install, so the roof can be erected in a shorter time, the rafter system for metal shingles is also not difficult.

Metal tiles are lighter than ceramic products, the difference in weight sometimes reaches 35 kilograms per square meter, depending on the thickness of the products (read also: "Arrangement of the rafter system for metal tiles - design options, rafter pitch").

Due to a significant reduction in the weight of the roofing, it becomes possible to reduce the thickness of the elements of the rafter structure and the dimensions of the cross-section of the sheathing bars, to increase the pitch of the rafters.

Under the metal roofing, the rafter legs are mounted with a distance of 600 to 950 millimeters, while the cross-section of the construction material is 150 by 50 millimeters.

According to experts, in this case, if you place a 150 mm thick insulation between the rafters, then such thermal insulation will create comfortable conditions for staying in the attic room. At the same time, for greater reliability, it is advisable to choose a 200 mm insulation.

When installing the rafters, to ensure ventilation of the space that is filled with insulation, holes are drilled in the rafters near the upper roof with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters.

The technology for creating a rafter system for metal tiles does not differ significantly from structures for other types of roofing materials.

The only feature is that for the rafters, the upper support is mounted on the ridge girder from above, and not on the side of the ridge beam. The presence of a free zone between the rafters ensures air circulation under the roof deck, and this, due to the use of metal material, reduces the risk of condensation.

When installing the roof in wooden house, when it is planned to replace the Mauerlat with the upper crown, if it is incorrect to calculate at what distance the rafters are placed, it will be difficult to correct the error (read also: "How to calculate the rafters on the roof").

Roof structure for ondulin

When creating a roof from ondulin, the pitch of the rafter system should be at least 600 millimeters, and the maximum distance between the rafters should be no more than 900 millimeters.

For the rafter system, boards of 50x200 millimeters are selected and thereby provide an insignificant margin of safety, taking into account the rafter runs.

On top of the counter-lattice and the rafter structure, a crate is laid from a bar of 40x50 millimeters and an axial pitch of 60 centimeters (read the article: "Ondulin or metal tiles - which is better").

Roof structure for slate covering

Slate is one of the most popular roofing materials. For its installation, rafters with a cross section of 50x100 or 50x150 millimeters are chosen. When deciding how far to put the rafters, one must proceed from the fact that the minimum value cannot be less than 600 millimeters, and the maximum - 800 millimeters (for more details: "How to put rafters on a house").

For the manufacture of lathing use wooden bar with a section of 50x50 millimeters or a board of 25x100 millimeters.

The step of the lathing is selected depending on the slope angle of the roof slope. If it is insignificant, then it is enough that the sheet of material rests on 4 bars with a step of 45 centimeters, and with a large slope, 3 bars with a step from 630 to 650 millimeters are enough.

How to do the installation of a roof from corrugated board with your own hands, detailed video instructions:

Rafters for shed and gable roofs

When creating a rafter structure, you should remember the need to provide the system with an additional margin of safety, while taking into account the step of the rafters.

Distance between rafters shed roof are chosen depending on the thickness of the tree and the material of the roof - it can be from 60 to 140 centimeters. The thickness of the timber elements depends on the area and the load on the roof (read: "Shed roof rafter system, main advantages and characteristics").

The distance between the rafters of the gable roof is made taking into account the size of the heat insulator, which is laid between them. The approximate step between the rafter legs is 1-1.2 meters (read: "The rafter system of a gable roof and its components"). Rafters regulate the size of the roof overhang.

Insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered

Desire of many owners country houses make the most of the area of ​​the house, makes them pay attention to the attic. It often happens that it is easier to equip an attic than to expand a house by attaching a residential building to it. Since the attic is part of the roof of the house, it is with the thermal insulation of the roof that the arrangement should begin attic floor... Consider how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool and show detailed video instructions on the topic.

It is necessary to insulate the attic with mineral wool and equip the attic for a room if the roof of the house allows the ceiling in this room to be of sufficient height and it will be possible to strengthen the interfloor floors in order to walk safely in the attic.

If these two conditions are feasible, then you can safely proceed with the independent thermal insulation of the attic with basalt mineral wool for living in winter.

The better to insulate the attic

First, we will consider the most important question - the better to insulate the attic with foam or mineral wool. We will determine which thermal insulation material is suitable for the correct insulation of the roof of the attic floor.

To do this, the following parameters should be taken into account: thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, fire safety, environmental friendliness and low weight.

Most of the listed requirements are met by fiberglass or rock wool. Unlike basalt insulation, Technoplex expanded polystyrene does not withstand high temperatures and is a very flammable material.

Knauf glass wool and Rocklite basalt wool is a fire-resistant and fireproof material, and with high-quality vapor barrier, the mineral wool will not be afraid of moisture.

Comparison building materials by thermal conductivity

Mineral wool is made from natural material - basalt. The material has a density of 18 to 45 kg / m³, has good thermal insulation and sound-absorbing properties.

Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instructions and video

We examined various brands of mineral wool, their purpose and characteristics in the section "Inorganic thermal insulation". Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic separately.

Methods for insulating the attic of a house with mineral wool

The attic is insulated in two ways: under the rafters and between them. The easiest way is to place mineral wool between the rafters. This method is used to insulate the roof even at the stage of building a house, but you can use the technology even after the completion of construction.

You can do the work on thermal insulation of the attic with your own hands, if you have sufficient competence.

In addition to this method, there is also a technology for placing basalt insulation under the rafters.

This technology provides for the construction of an additional frame for the installation of mineral wool, which entails an increase in costs. However, this method has an important advantage - the absence of cold bridges between the insulation and the rafters, which will save the wood from possible wetting and decay.

Warming the attic with the location of the thermal insulation under the rafters will be easier and more correct to perform, but the area of ​​the room is lost.

In both cases, using a vapor barrier to cut off the moist air warm room, from penetration into basalt fiber and its moisture. You should also take care of ventilation in the attic of the space between the roof and the insulation.

We insulate the attic with mineral wool with our own hands

1. Construction of the frame of the attic room

The mineral wool should be located between the frame guides; for this, the timber is installed at a width of 1-1.5 cm less than the width of the insulation.

The thickness of the timber should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the insulation in the attic. To do this, you should use a heat engineering calculator to calculate the thickness of mineral fiber insulation for the roof and attic of a private house.

Condensation often forms on a metal roof, so treating wood with an antiseptic is necessary to protect it from moisture.

2.

Laying mineral wool in the frame

Rocklight or another brand is placed in the frame, the plates should be placed in a spacer, without gaps. It is better to lay the plates in two rows so that the second layer of mineral wool overlaps the joints of the first row. Do not forget that when working with mineral wool, you should protect yourself from microparticles of mineral wool floating in the air by wearing gloves, a respirator and other personal protective equipment.

Insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside and outside

3.

Installation of a vapor barrier membrane

To protect glass wool or mineral wool from moisture, cover the entire structure with a superdiffuse membrane. The material is able to pass air, preventing the penetration of moisture particles and wetting of mineral wool.

To do this, you should find out which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, otherwise you may face serious problems when operating the attic.

4. Sheathing of the frame with plasterboard

Before sheathing the frame, fill wooden slats 20-30 mm thick to create a gap between the false wall and the vapor barrier film.

This air will allow moisture to evaporate from the surface of the film more efficiently. Many instead of vapor barrier use foil foam, the material provides additional insulation, reflects heat and protects the mineral wool from moisture.

Photo. Sheathing the attic with plasterboard with your own hands

5. Plasterboard wall decoration

Seams between drywall sheets are glued with masking tape and putty.

After the rough layer has dried, the putty is sanded and the entire surface of the wall is primed. At the last stage, all the walls in the attic are covered with a finishing putty, pasted over with wallpaper or painted. Watch the video at the end of the article all the stages of insulating the attic with mineral wool from the inside.

6. Laying the attic floor

After insulating the ceiling and walls, you should start laying the finishing floor covering. A laminate underlay is spread on the sub-floor or parquet board, and the floor covering is laid on top.

Self-insulation of the attic with mineral wool is not a super difficult task, and if you have experience in working with construction tools, then the work can be done on your own.

Internal insulation of the attic has an undeniable advantage - the ability to carry out thermal insulation works regardless of the season. However, this approach has several important nuances, ignoring which can nullify all efforts and financial investments. It's easier to prevent unwanted consequences than to eliminate them, don't you agree?

We will tell you how to act correctly in order to avoid mistakes. In the article, we described the features of the use of different thermal insulation materials, gave advice on choosing the best insulation, and also told how to avoid condensation in the roofing cake.

The detailed technology for insulating the attic roof will help to carry out all the work independently, without resorting to the help of specialists.

There are a lot of heaters. However, not all of them are recommended for installation in a residential attic. The attic space is characterized by a fairly high humidity due to the rise of heated air from the lower floors of the cottage. Plus, you shouldn't forget about environmental friendliness and safety of the material.

If the attic is uninhabited, then due to natural ventilation through air vents, soffits and dormers, steam is quickly escaped from it to the street. As a result, condensation does not form inside, and the rafter system is not negatively affected by excess moisture.

In the attic, the situation is different. When insulating it, it is necessary to create a barrier for heat to escape to the outside and reduce air exchange with the street. As a result, all the steam remains inside the attic rooms.

Therefore, if the insulation is not protected reliably from moisture, then it will not last long. After all, any heat-insulating material, after getting wet, partially or completely loses its properties.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to evaluate it:

• thermal conductivity;
• vapor permeability;
• volume weight;
• flammability;
• soundproofing;
• environmental safety.

If you choose too heavy a material, then the rafters will be overloaded. And the attic is often equipped with uninhabited attic... The rafter beams, in this case, are not designed for unnecessary additional loads. You shouldn't try your luck here.

In terms of thermal conductivity, most of the heaters on the market are similar. You just need to choose the right thickness to achieve the required parameters of thermal insulation.

It is not recommended to use sprayed polyurethane or foil-clad polyethylene for insulating the attic from the inside due to the high risk in case of making the slightest mistakes during the installation of condensation falling directly on wooden rafters

Of the entire range of thermal insulation materials, mineral wool (basalt) and are most suitable for internal insulation of the attic. Moreover, the first option is more preferable than the second. Minvata is not flammable and has better sound insulation.

It is not worth taking glass wool because of its predisposition to crumbling. Small glass particles are very dangerous to humans. And ordinary foam is also not recommended for use in the attic. In comparison with EPS, it is more flammable and environmentally harmful. In addition, it will have to be installed in a thicker layer.

Dew point problem

Ideally, the attic roof should be insulated from the outside during the formation of the roofing cake. However, it is often done the other way around from the inside, when the house is already covered with a roof. And this is where certain problems arise.

Correct and perfect roofing cake - several layers of different materials laid on top of the rafters tightly on top of each other without gaps. This sandwich ensures that it sits on the outside of it. As a result, all condensate formed outside will quickly evaporate into the atmosphere.

When insulating a mansard roof from the inside, it is extremely important to leave a gap between the insulation and the existing roof for ventilation and evaporation of the condensate formed due to the temperature drop

Making insulation from the inside, after installing the roof, it is impossible to form the exemplary roofing cake described above. It will not work to press the insulation to the roof so that there are no voids left between them.

But the steam always moves towards the cold air. And then, each of the formed cavities will accumulate condensate and moisture. And this is a direct path to damage to the thermal insulation material and the wooden elements of the rafter system.

With internal insulation of the attic, the dew point has to be shifted into the space between the installed roof and the insulation, leaving an additional 5-10 cm clearance for ventilation. Only such a technology and such a cake will allow you to avoid wetting the heat-insulating material.

To achieve correct air exchange in the under-roof space, it is recommended to install deflectors on the ridge and provide for special holes in the cornice

To reduce the amount of water vapor in the insulation, its installation should be carried out using a vapor barrier film. A vapor barrier is mounted from the inside of the attic on top of the thermal insulation material.

The steam must first encounter this film and mostly stay in the room. The less it gets into the insulation layer, the better.

Mansard roof insulation technology

To properly insulate the attic from the inside, you need to create a cake of five layers, starting from the roof inward:

1. Ventilated duct.
2. Wind-moisture insulation from a vapor-permeable membrane.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Attic ceiling lining.

The vapor barrier is made of glassine, polyethylene or polypropylene film. Most the best way- special membranes, in which one side is rough and the other is smooth. With these materials, the risk of condensation forming directly on them is practically zero.

For a vapor barrier material, the vapor permeability should not exceed several tens of grams / m2 per day, for vapor-permeable membranes this indicator is hundreds of grams / m2 per day and more - these films should not be confused

Membranes are suitable for organizing wind and moisture insulation:

• porous;
• two-layer film;
• three-layer superdiffusion;
• perforated.

Superdiffusion membranes will last the longest and most effective. However, they are more expensive than other options.

At the same time, it is recommended to use perforated fabrics and films when insulating a residential attic only as a last resort. They are more designed for waterproofing cold sloped roofs in non-residential attics.

When installed with insulation in a warm room, these materials in severe frosts are often covered with frost, which reduces their vapor permeability to nothing.

Layer # 1 - ventilation under-roof vents

Before you start insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands, you first need to treat the wood of the rafters with antiseptics and fire retardants. Only then will it be possible to start forming the insulating cake.

It is best to mount the insulation from the inside of the attic on a special crate under the rafters, but most often this material, together with the upper vapor-permeable film, has to be laid between the rafter beams

If the insulation is knocked out from the bottom of the rafters, then the inner space of the attic will be reduced. The thickness of the heat-insulating cake often reaches 30–40 cm. If you subtract these centimeters from the top and sides, the room may turn out to be too low and small.

At the same time, the installation option with the lining of the lathing under the rafters and the laying of insulation on it excludes the appearance of cold bridges. If mineral wool or EPS is inserted between the beams, then they themselves and the gaps near them formed over time in the heat-insulating layer will draw heat from the attic.

In order for ventilation in the under-roof space to meet the requirements of SNiPs, deflectors or other openings for air outlet should be provided on the ridge.

Steam together with air currents should rise to the highest point of the roof and leave from there completely outward. Moreover, this should happen without obstacles and as quickly as possible.

Before stuffing the membrane onto the rafters, you must first correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. If the insulating layer turns out to be larger than the dimensions of the rafter beams, then you will have to build them up with bars. The main insulating material should be inside this frame, and not protrude from it.

Layer # 2 - vapor permeable membrane

In the upper part of the under-roofing cake being formed, there should be a material with high vapor permeability from the insulation to the street and high waterproofing in the opposite direction. The task of this membrane is not to interfere with the escape of steam from the thermal insulation, while not letting water and moisture into it, which can drip from a leaky roof.

The best material for this vapor-permeable layer, which also performs the function of wind and moisture protection, is superdiffusion membranes. They are not clogged with dust and ice formed from condensation in severe frosts.

Laying of such membranes is carried out in horizontal stripes with an overlap of 10-15 cm of the upper row on the lower one from the outside. As a result, a single canvas should be obtained, if drops of water hit it through the roof from the street, they would flow down without getting into the insulation.

The joints of the membrane rows from the inside of the attic are glued with assembly tape. It should be taken under the same brand as the vapor-permeable film.

The composition of the glue and the material of the membrane from one manufacturer are selected so as not to harm each other and to keep reliably in the glued state for many years. If you take them under different brands, then problems are possible.

Layer # 3 - basic insulation

The thickness of the insulation is selected in accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003. For this, appropriate calculations are carried out, which take into account climatic conditions, features of the structure and structure of the roof, as well as the characteristics of the thermal insulation material and the inner lining of the attic.

Laying insulation with an unnecessarily thick layer is not worth it because of wasted money, and its too thin layer may not provide the required thermal protection

Thermal insulation manufacturers give detailed recommendations for determining this thickness in the instructions for the material sold and post on their official websites. It is best to focus on these calculations.

Installation of insulation is carried out from the inside of the attic on top of the laid vapor-permeable membrane. If mineral wool is chosen, then it must be cut into pieces 2-3 cm wider than the gaps between the rafters or the lathing bars. Mineral wool should enter between them with light pressure and hold there due to the spacer.

EPSS will have to be laid on top of the rafters, and not between them. Plates of this insulation are mounted end-to-end. If you put them inside the rafter beams, like mineral wool, then through holes will appear in the heat-insulating layer.

Some craftsmen fill such gaps with polyurethane foam from a cylinder. However, this should not be done. This can lead to deterioration of the membrane due to chemical reaction spray foam components and vapor-permeable film material.

It is better to take away from the attic 10-25 cm from the top and from the sides to the crate with EPS, rather than get a layer of protection with through holes.

Layer # 4 - vapor barrier film

On top of the insulation from the inside of the attic, a vapor barrier made of glassine or polypropylene or polyethylene film should be laid. The task of this layer is not to let water vapor from the room into the insulation. It is laid in the same way as the very first vapor-permeable coating.

The joints of the vapor barrier should be given maximum attention - if you leave even the slightest gaps in them, then the steam will find these gaps and wet the thermal insulation material

In addition to the usual film, you can also take foil. The extra layer of foil will reflect most of the heat energy back into the attic, reducing heating costs. In this case, the installation of such a film is made with "aluminum" inside.

The vapor barrier is fastened with staple staples or studs with a wide head. And in the places where the film is adjacent to cables, pipes and structural elements of roof windows, it should be additionally reinforced with a special one-sided tape with a heat-reflecting coating.

Layer # 5 - headliner

At the end of the attic insulation, the lathing is stuffed under the cladding. It is made of 15–25 mm thick bars so that a small ventilation gap remains above the vapor barrier.

Condensation due to improper vapor barrier and how to get rid of it:

When self-insulating the attic from the inside, when the roof is already covered, it is important to choose the right thickness of the heat-insulating material. And even more important is to spend correct installation without rupture of vapor barrier and wind and moisture barrier.

If the protective films on both sides of the insulation have holes, it will get wet and no longer protect the house from the cold.

Do you have an experience of insulating the attic from the inside? Or would you like to ask questions on a topic? Please comment on the publication, share your knowledge and participate in discussions. The feedback block is located below.

Even at the stage of design and construction of a private house, the purpose of each room and its design are thought out. Sometimes, over time, you want to expand the existing squares without significant financial investments. This is easy to achieve by performing insulation from the inside. If the roof is already covered, the installation work becomes somewhat more difficult. We invite you to get acquainted with the technologies used.

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Video: how to insulate an attic for winter living if the roof is already covered

The lack of living space can be compensated for if the available squares are wisely disposed of. Living in a private house, you should definitely turn it into a comfortable living space. For those who do not know how to insulate an attic for winter living, a video of the process will certainly help to understand all the intricacies.

We propose to consider in detail all the stages of insulation from the inside, including preparation for installation work and the choice of a suitable one.

Preparation of the attic room before starting insulation work

If the attic will be used as a living space, you should prepare for thermal insulation work. This room must meet certain requirements, which are prescribed in the relevant regulatory documents. Here, in contrast to the attic, the roof must have a slope, and the ceiling must not be lower than 2.5 m.

At the preparation stage, you should decide on:

• the type of thermal insulation materials that will be used when insulating the attic. The level of heat loss and the comfort of living in this room will directly depend on this;
• communications that will be connected to the attic. To do this, you should decide and correctly select the appropriate engineering solutions;
• how the supporting elements will be decorated.

Each of the listed points can have a serious impact on the order and quality of the insulation work from the inside. The choice of heat and waterproofing will affect the performance of the room. If the thickness is insufficient, it will be cold at the top; if it is too thick, condensation is likely to occur.

What tools will be needed to complete the work

The choice of specific equipment and tools depends on the type of thermal insulation material. As a rule, for installation work from the inside, you should prepare:

• scissors and a knife, with which cutting and other materials will be performed;
• a construction stapler with a suitable size osprey, with which you can fix the panels;
• tools for working with the material from which the house is built. For a tree you need a chisel, mallet, plane, and chisel;

In addition to the heat-insulating material, to insulate the attic from the inside, you should have in stock:

• steam and;
• bars for the lathing device, if its installation is provided in the selected method;
• hardware. It is worth purchasing screws and nails of different sizes;
• construction scotch tape;
• mounting foam.

The choice of insulation for the attic roof

Manufacturers offer a wide range of thermal insulation materials. Each of them has its own distinctive features, which should be taken into account when choosing for a mansard roof. We offer you to get to know each of them to make it easier to choose the best option.

Styrofoam

The budget option, which is most often resorted to when insulating the attic (and in vain). Easy to handle and assemble by hand. Well suited for the attic, as it has a low specific weight and low thermal conductivity. But at the same time it has the biggest and most significant drawback: it is extremely flammable and rodents love it very much.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The performance characteristics of extruded polystyrene foam are comparable to those of polystyrene foam. However, the process of forming a thermal insulation coating is slightly different, which will avoid the formation of gaps. The presence of stepped joints ensures reliable fixation of the elements and protects the attic from the penetration of cold from the outside. We would like to note that this material is also flammable and requires the most serious assessment to select it as a heater.

Mineral wool

A heat insulator used everywhere. It is a natural material that contains a certain amount of synthetic fibers to improve performance. Differs in affordable cost. It is sold in rolls or slabs, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

Glass wool

Insulation with longer fibers than mineral wool. This contributes to an increase in elastic characteristics and sound insulation properties. In terms of hydrophobicity, it is somewhat inferior to the mineral analogue. Differs in low flammability. The absence of toxic substances in the composition makes it possible to use glass wool for internal thermal insulation of the attic.

Stone wool

The most expensive kind of cotton wool used in execution. Consists of basalt fibers. Can be supplied in the form of slabs. It is more expensive than its counterpart - glass wool, but at the same time it allows you to form a better thermal insulation coating.

Ecowool

The basis of the material is paper - an environmentally friendly material. Before application, the composition is thoroughly crushed. After that, using special equipment, it is blown into the voids, thereby preventing the appearance of a draft.

Polyurethane foam

Modern thermal insulation material, ideal for insulating the attic from the inside. The technology used makes it possible to form a dense coating that does not have cracks and gaps. By giving preference to this technology, you can not be afraid of drafts and cold for at least 30 years.

Penofol

One of the options for expanded polyethylene, widely used in the insulation of attics of modern buildings. The presence of one- or two-sided coating provides high reflective characteristics and good sound insulation properties.

An overview of the advantages and disadvantages of certain types of insulation for the attic

Each of the listed heat insulators can be used to insulate the attic roof of a private house and has its own advantages and disadvantages. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the advantages of each type so that you can compare them with each other and give preference to a specific insulation.

Styrofoam, differing in affordable cost, has:

1. low water absorption. Water hitting the surface will not be absorbed, but will simply flow down;
2. light weight;
3. low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages include low vapor permeability. As a result, the attic can be hot and stuffy, and high humidity can cause mold. Shrinkage of a wooden structure during operation can lead to the appearance of gaps between the foam plates. Often they wind up between the sheets of insulation. Well, as mentioned above, in the event of a fire, it instantly ignites and releases poisonous gas.

To the benefits extruded polystyrene foam should be attributed:

1. low weight, which reduces the requirements for load-bearing structures;
2. long service life, if the installation was carried out in accordance with all the rules;
3. high compressive strength;
4. the ability to do installation work with your own hands. You just need to figure out how to properly insulate the attic roof with extruded polystyrene foam;
5. resistance to decay;
6. the possibility of applying a topcoat to the heat insulator layer.

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted increased flammability. The impregnation with fire retardants minimizes this negative property.

To the main advantages mineral wool should be attributed:

1. availability;
2. high heat and sound insulation properties;
3. ease of installation work from the inside. The insulation is easy to cut and fit. It can be used to insulate a broken line from the inside;
4. long service life;
5. biological resistance. The material is not attractive to rodents;
6. low specific gravity.

However, such insulation accumulates moisture well enough. When planning to insulate the attic from the inside with mineral wool, you should take care of the availability of high-quality hydro and vapor barrier.

The main advantages glass wool are the absence of toxic substances in the composition and low flammability. With proper installation, it is able to keep heat well inside the house.

Attention! When insulating an attic with glass wool, it is imperative to use personal protective equipment.

Stone wool reliable in operation and safe for others. Has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and almost zero flammability. Able to withstand significant external influences. The formed coating has good characteristics.

To the merits ecowool should be attributed:

1. environmental friendliness, thanks to which it can be safely used to insulate the attic from the inside;
2. good thermal insulation characteristics;
3. formation of a dense layer that minimizes heat loss;
4. the presence in the composition of borax, a natural antiseptic that protects wooden structures from rotting and the appearance of mold;
5. good sound insulation characteristics of a thin layer;
6. preservation of characteristics for a long time. After ten years of operation, the thickness of the insulation remains unchanged.

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted the complexity of the application and the high cost.

Polyurethane foam has high performance characteristics. Shrinkage wooden house is unable to influence the characteristics of the formed thermal insulation layer. The coating has optimal hardness and is not afraid of moisture. During installation from the inside, you can refuse to form a vapor barrier layer.

The disadvantages include the need to use a special spray. This can become a serious problem for those who planned to carry out insulation from the inside with their own hands, since such equipment is quite expensive. In addition, you must have sufficient knowledge and have certain skills in order to independently apply a high-quality dense coating.

Penofol it is in demand when insulating attics from the inside, since such a heater:

1. Safe. It does not harm human health and the environment.
2. Possesses low level thermal conductivity.
3. Allows to form a closed system of air bubbles with the required level of vapor permeability.

Attention! Insulation of the attic with penofol requires significant financial investments.

Nuances of attic insulation with different geometry of the roof of the house

Insulation of the attic roof has a number of features dictated by the specifics of the room itself. The complex design of the garret space requires a competent approach. Otherwise, it will be difficult to avoid the appearance of either condensation.

How to insulate the roof of a house from the inside with your own hands if it has a rather complex geometry? The answer to such a question is sought in each specific case individually. The choice is made in favor of rigid insulation, since soft materials at a large angle of inclination they slide. In this case, thermal insulation work from the inside is best performed using plates. The lathing is mounted in such a way that the rafters are located at a distance that is 10-15 mm less than the width of the slabs. This will avoid the appearance of cracks through which cold can penetrate into the room.

Attention! To create comfortable conditions, you should do the insulation of the attic walls from the inside with your own hands, as well as other surfaces.

Considering that the rafter legs of a complex roof are cold bridges, after laying the plates on top of the laid mats, a continuous layer of insulation is attached. Its thickness is much less than the main heat insulator. A vapor barrier is laid on top.

Is it necessary to arrange waterproofing under the insulation

The presence in the formed cake is mandatory. Thus, it is possible to prevent the formation of condensation or the infiltration of atmospheric precipitation into the room. As a result, the service life is increased, and the reliability of the formed heat-insulating layer is increased.

Most often, the choice is made in favor of waterproofing films: diffusion, superdiffusion breathable, anti-condensation.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation from the inside - basic nuances, video

If you decide to carry out the installation work on your own, it's time to find out how to properly insulate the roof from the inside, depending on the selected thermal insulation material.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool with your own hands: video of the process

If it is decided to insulate the attic roof from the inside with your own hands with mineral wool, the work should be done in the following sequence:

1. Fastening waterproofing.
2. Cut out the mineral wool. For this, strips are cut, the width of which is 3-4 mm greater than the distance between the rafters.
3. Laying mineral wool between the rafter beams end-to-end, but without overlap, it is fastened with nylon threads or knitting wire wound on nails driven into the rafters.
4. Fastening the vapor barrier.
5. Finishing finish.

The following video about insulating the attic from the inside with a mineral wool with your own hands will allow you to understand the process in more detail:

Attic insulation with foam

Having made a choice in favor of foam, you can significantly reduce the cost of performing thermal insulation work. The main thing is to understand the technology of insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam. Installation work can be performed in the following sequence:

Photo	Description of work
	Treat wooden lathing elements with a special compound to improve their performance and increase their service life. The composition must be suitable for indoor work.
	We measure the dimensions of the rafter beams and the distance between them in order to determine the parameters of the foam.
	Cut the foam sheets to size.
	Place the foam sheets between the beams and fix them with screws.
	We foam the resulting joints and cavities between the beams and the foam sheets. Cut off the excess foam after hardening. If necessary, lay the second layer.

Attic insulation with polyurethane foam

Before starting thermal insulation work, the strength characteristics of the rafter system should be checked. Considering that polyurethane foam weighs more than foam or mineral wool, load-bearing structures must be designed for this load.

Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam from the inside is performed as follows:

Photo	Description of work
	Special equipment is being prepared, with the help of which the composition will be applied to the surface of the walls and ceiling of the attic.
	The composition is applied to a previously prepared base. A continuous coating of the same thickness is formed.
	The quality of the formed layer is controlled.

An overview of the main mistakes made when insulating an attic from the inside

It is not enough just to learn how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands. You should definitely get acquainted with the typical mistakes that many inexperienced builders make. This is especially true when working with insulation materials that absorb moisture quite easily. Experts recommend:

• do not use a hygroscopic heat insulator to protect roofs with a slope of less than 13 degrees. In this case, there is a high risk of precipitation collection on the roof surface with subsequent leaks, which can cause damage to the thermal insulation layer;
• it is imperative to provide an air gap between the roof and the insulation layer for drying and ventilation of the insulating layer;
• stack all layers of the "pie". The absence of steam or waterproofing will negatively affect the final result;
• entrust the installation to specialists. Considering that such structures are mounted at an angle, many perform the installation poorly.

Having figured out how to insulate the attic roof and walls, you can safely start doing the work yourself. If you have already insulated the attic on your own, share in the comments what you ended up with. The results of your work are interesting to us and our readers.

Every year more and more of our compatriots are tempted to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and adds some romance to the overall concept of the house, especially if you install roof windows... Almost all new country houses they were originally built with an attic, but in old houses, cold attics are being remodeled by compassionate owners, insulated, heated and equipped. To keep the attic warm and dry in winter, cool in summer and materials to serve for a long time, it is necessary to understand the very essence of the attic floor insulation technology and understand the processes taking place in it. It is not difficult to insulate the attic roof with your own hands, all the work is quite simple, you only need a partner and a tool. The main thing is to do everything right, then the thermal insulation material will last a long time, the wood of the rafters will not get wet and will not rot, and as a result, you will not need a quick overhaul.

Why is it necessary to insulate the attic roof

The attic is a special room, its walls are almost close to the roof surface and the ventilation gaps are no more than 10-15 cm. That is why the attic quickly cools down in winter and heats up in summer. The entire roof area acts as a storage area for solar heat in summer, while most of the heat in winter goes through it. This is due to the thermal conductivity of the materials from which it is made and the ventilation. For example, in winter, the heat coming from heating radiators rises up, spreads under the roof arch and safely evaporates, since the roof material has high thermal conductivity. At the same time, the snow melts, turns into ice and destroys the roofing material. And in summer, the surface of the roof heats up and transfers heat to the entire structure, as a result, even the air becomes hot and stale. Even two air conditioners cannot cope with such a problem.

In a house with a classic cold loft, the situation is completely different. In it, the function of a heat insulator is performed by snow on the roof in winter and air in the attic. Fill-in thermal insulation materials on the floor of the attic plus the air trapped in the attic space perfectly keep the heat coming from the heated living space. As a result, even in the most severe winters, the temperature in the attic does not drop below 0 ° C - -2 ° C. Thanks to this, the snow on the roof does not melt and serves as an additional heat insulator. In summer, the air temperature in the attic can be adjusted by opening and closing the windows in the gables; in fact, this is a real ventilation that removes excess heat from the attic, preventing overheating structural elements roofs.

What to do with the attic? It is necessary to carefully insulate the room, choosing the right material, its thickness, place of installation and adhere to the technology. For example, if you use a heater of insufficient thickness - by eye, then it may not be enough, the snow will melt, and soon you will have to rebuild the roofing material, since the old one will become completely unusable. A sufficient width of the insulation will allow you to completely isolate the attic from the roof, and well-executed ventilation will remove excess moisture and condensation from the under-roof space. But first things first.

Materials for insulating the attic roof

Choosing the best thermal insulation material for insulating a mansard roof is a very important task. The type of insulation determines how thick the "cake" of insulation and the number of layers in it will be. Due to the specifics of the place where the material will be applied, certain requirements are imposed on it:

• Low heat conductivity. It is advisable to take material with a coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K.
• Low moisture permeability. Due to the fact that the roof can leak, the insulation material should be moisture resistant and, if possible, not get wet or lose its properties when wet. If this condition cannot be met, then the insulation must be waterproofed, excluding wetting.
• The low weight of the insulation is extremely important in order not to overload the roof structure. You can determine the weight of a material by its density. To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool insulation with a density of 45 - 50 kg / m3, from fiberglass - with a density of 14 kg / m3. Heavier slab options (200 kg / m2) will not work.
• Fire safety. It is desirable that the material does not burn or sustain combustion.
• Ability to keep in shape. Since the place where the insulation is laid is unusual - between the rafters at an angle, then over time, light roll materials based on mineral fibers can slide down, leaving large gaps at the top - empty spaces. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will retain its shape and size for a long time.
• Resistant to severe frost, temperature extremes and the ability to withstand multiple changes of defrost / freeze cycles.
• Durability.

The thickness of the insulation for the attic is calculated for each case individually. This can be done using a dedicated online calculator. For the calculation, it is necessary to indicate the region of construction, the thickness of the walls of the house and their material, the thickness and material of wall insulation, the thickness and material of the floors of the house, as well as the thickness and material of the insulation of the floors. All this is extremely important for calculating heat loss, on the basis of which the thickness of the insulation is selected. If you pick it up "by eye", then in most cases a layer of mineral wool with a layer of 250 mm is enough.

Consider the most popular materials that are used to insulate mansard roofs.

Mineral wool or glass wool- one of the most successful solutions for insulating the attic from the inside, although not ideal. Mineral wool fits perfectly into the space between the rafters, leaving no gaps, does not burn and does not support combustion, weighs little and serves as an excellent heat insulator. The slab positions of basalt wool keep their shape perfectly. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture quite strongly, like any cotton wool, therefore, waterproofing from the roof and vapor barrier from the side of the dwelling is required, since the mineral wool vapor also absorbs well. Wet mineral wool loses up to 60% of its properties irrevocably, and its complete replacement is required. In addition, over time, it cakes and crumbles, it does not withstand mechanical stress.

Nevertheless, mineral wool remains one of the best materials for do-it-yourself mansard roof insulation. It is inexpensive, easy to work with, and compliance the right technology will allow to neutralize its shortcomings. For different regions the thickness of the insulation is calculated individually, but the minimum layer of mineral wool for middle lane RF is 150 mm, in colder regions the thickness must be increased to 250 - 300 mm.

Expanded polystyrene or Styrofoam- an extremely popular material on the market, with which they are trying to insulate everything, and what is possible and what is not worth it. Against the background of seemingly ideal characteristics - low thermal conductivity, negligible weight, moisture resistance and rigid shape, the foam has significant drawbacks. Firstly, different brands of expanded polystyrene have varying degrees of fire safety from G1 to G4. And as practice has shown, for some reason they use combustible foam G3 - G4 for insulation, which can end very badly. After all, the fire spreads upward, if the attic insulation material catches fire, it will be unrealistic to survive in it. Secondly, working with foam is not very convenient, since it crumbles during cutting and installation, there are gaps between the rafters, which have to be closed up in all sorts of clever ways. Thirdly, the foam begins to crumble and collapse over time. Considering all the disadvantages, insulation of the attic roof with foam is not worth doing. This material can only be used in those areas where it will be hidden behind a floor screed or a layer of plaster.

Extruded polystyrene foam- great stuff for insulating the attic from the outside, i.e. if you lay it on the rafters under the roofing material. It is strong enough, not afraid of moisture, does not burn, keeps its shape perfectly. And what is important - its very small layer is required from 50 to 100 mm.

Polyurethane foam - modern material, which is blown out using a special installation, without leaving the slightest gaps or gaps. This is an indisputable plus, especially since with such a spraying it is easy to avoid cold bridges in the form of rafter legs. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, weighs little and keeps its shape perfectly. But he has another drawback - low vapor permeability, he practically does not "breathe" at all. This means that the attic room will always be unpleasantly humid, if you do not equip forced ventilation.

Ecowool- one of the most ideal options in the question of how best to insulate the attic roof. It also blows into all cracks, is not afraid of moisture, practically does not burn, weighs little, "breathes" and, most importantly, is absolutely environmentally friendly, unlike all other materials. Its fumes or accidental particles are not capable of causing harm, unlike mineral wool.

When choosing insulation for a mansard roof, pay attention not only to the characteristics of the material itself, but also to the purely design features of its use. For example, laying mineral wool between the rafters allows, if necessary, to disassemble the "cake" of insulation and check the condition of the rafters, repair them, and then the mineral wool slabs can be easily put in place. If you spray polyurethane foam into the space between the rafters, then the rafters become practically inaccessible for revision. So everything needs to be treated wisely.

How to properly insulate a mansard roof from the inside

The most common way to insulate the attic is from the inside, if space permits or there are no other contraindications. To do this, use mineral wool-based insulation, glass wool and, less often, extruded polystyrene foam. Even less often, polyurethane foam or ecowool is blown out.

Insulation scheme for the attic roof from the inside

Compliance with the correct "pie" of the attic roof insulation is the key to the durability of materials and the comfort of living in the attic.

Mansard roof insulation cake (from the inside to the outside):

• Finishing material.
• Vapor barrier membrane.
• Insulation - mineral wool or glass wool.
• A waterproofing membrane that releases steam and does not allow moisture to pass through.
• Ventilation gap with lathing.
• Roofing material.

Vapor barrier film must be used if wadded materials are used as insulation. So the mineral wool can be protected from the damp vapors of the living space. If, instead of mineral wool, polyurethane foam or ecowool is used, then a vapor barrier is not needed.

Waterproofing is needed in any case, regardless of the insulation used, it will protect the wooden elements of the roof structure. As waterproofing, it is necessary to use superdiffusion membranes capable of releasing steam to the outside and not allowing moisture to pass inside. A ventilation gap of 4 to 10 cm is required between the waterproofing film and the roofing material, depending on the type of roof. Excess steam from the insulation will come out through it.

Laying insulation between the rafters of the attic roof

It is better to insulate the attic roof from the inside at the stage of building a house. Then all stages of work will be performed correctly. Before starting insulation, it is necessary to determine where we will insulate. To do this, draw a drawing of the attic with exact dimensions and mark where the interior space will be finished. For example, if the living space will occupy the entire area, including the roof slope up to the overlap, then the entire roof slope must be insulated. If the room is, as it were, cut off, i.e. below between the slope and interior decoration there will be free space, then you will have to insulate it strictly according to the drawn scheme, leaving free space for ventilation. But then, in narrow areas near the very edge of the roof, it will be necessary to insulate the floor.

Consider the option of warming the entire roof slope:

• Even at the construction stage, before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. To do this, we lay a waterproofing membrane on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom up, making an overlap of at least 15 cm and gluing the joints with self-adhesive tapes. The film must be spread not in tightness so that it does not break when frosts come. It must be laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per 1 m. We nail the waterproofing to the rafters with a construction stapler. If this is not the case, then you can use galvanized nails with a wide head.
• From above we nail a crate of wooden bars. Their thickness is selected depending on the required size of the ventilation gap, at least 2.5 cm. We fix the crate with corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws. In order not to injure the film once again, we make holes in the bars in advance.

Important! For greater reliability, you can make two ventilation gaps: between the insulation and the waterproofing, between the waterproofing and the roof. This will protect the material from getting wet if condensation suddenly accumulates on the film.

• We lay roofing material on the crate - tiles, corrugated board, slate, metal. Here is for installation soft roof first, you need to nail sheets of chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the crate, which will serve as the basis for fastening.

• Work moves into the attic. We unpack the insulation - mineral wool and let it lie down and straighten. Cut into the required pieces. The width should be 20 - 30 mm greater than the distance between the rafters, so that the canvases are kept "at the edge".

• We push the sheets of insulation into the space between the rafters. We press on the middle of the canvas, and the edges straighten themselves. The rafter thickness should be 200 - 250 mm.

Important! It is convenient to select the step between the rafters to the size of the future insulation. Rolls are sold with a width of 1200 mm. The step can be made 1200 mm or 600 mm, then the roll will need to be cut in half.

• We lay on top of the insulation vapor barrier material with an overlap of 10 cm, glue the joints with tape. We fix it to the rafters with staples or using a lathing.
• We fill the crate of 25 mm thick slats.
• We fix the finishing material on the slats.

This completes the insulation. For a more illustrative example, you can watch the video of the mansard roof insulation.

If you are planning to insulate the attic in an old or already built house and do not want to remove the roofing material, then you can cheat a little. The waterproofing film can be spread inside the attic, wrapping the rafters with it and leading into the space between them. But in that case wooden rafters are obtained unprotected in the event of leaks.

Laying insulation under the rafters of the attic roof

A little less often, the method of insulation is used, when the material is laid inside the attic on top of the rafters, and not in the space between them. The main reason is that you can avoid cold bridges, which are wooden rafters. And so the tight fit of the insulating material will ensure that there are no gaps, and the free space between the rafters will serve as additional ventilation. A very good solution if the attic space allows you to reduce it by at least 30 cm on each side.

Insulation of the attic from the inside of the room:

• From the inside, we nail a waterproofing membrane onto the rafters.
• We attach plasterboard ceiling hangers to the rafters so that with their U-shaped hole they look at each other.

• We put insulation in the suspensions. We cut the canvases with a slight overlap in order to exclude the appearance of cracks. As a result, you should get a solid sheet of insulation. We outline along the way where the rafters are.
• We close the insulation with a vapor barrier film, fasten it with staples.
• We fill the crate for finishing material... For fastening, we use long nails 150-200 mm to break through the insulation and reach the rafters.

In principle, this method can be combined with the installation of insulation between the rafters. The first layer will be between the rafters, and the second will overlap everything, including the cold bridges.

How to insulate a mansard roof from the outside

It is possible to insulate the roof from the outside only during the construction phase or if the roofing material is removed. This method of insulation allows you to leave the attic space in its original form without losing space. Also many design solutions suggest the use of rafters as decorative furnishings.

Insulation technology of the attic roof from the outside

Insulation of the attic from the outside is carried out only with dense slab materials. These include extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex. It is not afraid of moisture, therefore it does not require a vapor barrier. The "cake" of Penoplex insulation will look like this:

• Extruded polystyrene foam boards.
• Waterproofing membrane.
• Ventilation gap with lathing.
• Roofing material.

The indisputable advantage of this method of insulation is that the rafters are available for inspection and repair at any time.

Laying insulation on the rafters of the attic roof

Thermal insulation with extruded polystyrene foam on top of the rafters allows you to create a continuous heat-insulating layer without cold bridges.

• To prevent the material from sliding off the roof, at the very bottom we nail a board to the rafters, with a width equal to the thickness of the insulation (from 50 to 100 mm).
• We spread the insulation plates in a checkerboard pattern. It is necessary to start from the bottom, from the fixing rail.
• We fix them to the rafters using special dowels with a mushroom head.
• We spread the waterproofing film, starting from the bottom up, with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, glue the joints with tape. The film is necessary to protect the material from leaks and condensation.
• We fill the crate of bars with a minimum thickness of 40 mm.
• We install roofing material.

Extruded polystyrene foam does not require any additional protection from the inside.

It is necessary to insulate the gables of the attic room together with the entire facade of the building, i.e. outside. The choice of insulation material depends entirely on the material from which the house is built and the preferences of the owner. For example, if the insulation is carried out using a curtain wall system, then you can use mineral wool with a vapor barrier and waterproofing films... And if a wet facade is planned, then foam plastic can be laid under it. Remember, adherence to technology is the key to success.

Video - how to insulate a mansard roof

Insulating an attic roof is one of the key steps in creating a reliable roofing cake that is designed for a long service life. To provide a comfortable environment for year-round residence in the attic floor of the house, it is important to choose a high-quality insulation and correctly install it.

Functional features of the thermal insulation layer of the roof

Competently executed insulation of the roofing structure from the inside makes it possible to provide a favorable microclimate in the attic. In the cold season, heat will be effectively stored there, and in the heat, thermal insulation will not allow the air in the rooms under the attic roof to overheat. To create an effective roof insulation, you need to understand the intricacies of the technology for installing a roofing pie and use high-quality materials and tools.

Insulation of mansard-type roofs is carried out according to the same principles as the insulation of ordinary roof structures, but they are presented to mansard roofs increased requirements... This is due to the design features of the attic rooms, the walls of which are either formed by the roof slopes and gables of the house, or are closely adjacent to the slopes. For this reason, the air in attics in the summer heat heats up very much, and quickly cools down in winter.

A multi-layer mansard roof cake consists of the following components (from inner layer to outer layer):

• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation;
• ventilation gap;
• waterproofing;
• roofing material.

The presence of all layers is required, since each of them performs a strictly defined function. Ventilation and the heat-insulating layer of the roofing cake require increased attention, since the level of comfort when living in the attic floor of a house depends on their high-quality performance.

When choosing a heater, you need to pay attention to such an indicator of the material as thermal conductivity.... It characterizes the ability of a material to transfer heat to or from a room. The lower this indicator, the better the material protects against heat leaks, therefore, the smaller the insulation layer can be used to achieve the required thermal insulation characteristics of the roof.

In a heated room, the greatest heat loss occurs through the roof, since in accordance with the laws of physics, warm air rises up. The heat penetrates through the roofing cake and is transferred to the topcoat, which is covered with a layer of snow in winter. Snow has a porous structure, and due to internal air pockets acts as an external heat insulator at air temperatures below -2 degrees.

If the heat loss of the house through the roof is large, the roofing material heats up, which causes the snow to melt. When the air temperature drops, the melted snow forms an ice crust. It is dangerous for roofing, since when water freezes, it has a negative effect on the outer surface of the roof. Ice, unlike snow, is not a heat insulator; moreover, it is denser in structure - the ice crust on the roof significantly increases the load on the structures. If the insulation from the inside is done correctly, the snow on the roof will not melt in winter.

In the hot summer period, excess heat is transferred from the roof to the inside of the room. The air can overheat so much that even air conditioners find it difficult to maintain a normal microclimate in the attic. Installing a reliable thermal insulation layer from the inside of the roof will avoid such problems. Of course, the air in the attic will be heated more than in the rooms on the first floor, but the difference will not become uncomfortable.

Features of roof ventilation attic type

Insulation of the attic roof requires a special approach. This is due to its design features. If we compare the device of an ordinary roof and an attic, it is obvious that the main difference is the size of the ventilation space between living quarters and the roof. Ventilation of a conventional roof is provided by the presence of an attic with dormer windows. The ventilation space of the mansard roof is very limited - it is only about 10-15 centimeters.

Correct ventilation is extremely important when arranging the roofing pie of the attic roof.... The ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the insulation helps to remove excess moisture from under the roof, protecting the entire structure and extending its service life. In winter, ventilation prevents overheating of the roof and the formation of an ice crust on it. In hot weather, due to ventilation from under the roof, part of the heat is removed, thereby avoiding overheating of the air in the attic and the structural elements of the roof.

The choice of insulation

At the stage of preparation for the installation of a roofing pie, you should decide on the choice of material for insulation. The number of layers and thickness of thermal insulation depends on the correctly selected type and technical characteristics. The modern construction market offers a wide range of materials for insulating roof structures. Among the most demanded are:

• polyurethane foam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• glass wool;
• mineral wool.

Foam glass can also be used, different kinds natural insulation for installation from the inside (wood chips, seaweed, granulated paper, etc.).

There are four main criteria for choosing a thermal insulation material.:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• fire resistance;
• environmental Safety.

Note! For insulation of a mansard-type roof, it is recommended to use a material whose thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.05 W / m * K and below.

The higher the moisture resistance of the insulation, the longer it will retain its functional qualities. The fire resistance rating is an important criterion for ensuring the safety of a home. It is also important to take into account the environmental friendliness of the material and its safety for humans. But the last two parameters do not affect the durability and effectiveness of roof insulation.

Mineral wool is a heater made from molten rocks. The material keeps heat well, does not rot, is resistant to temperature extremes and aggressive media, practically does not absorb moisture. Mats of various thicknesses, made of mineral wool, are especially convenient to use for roof insulation, if the pitch of the rafters corresponds to the width of the mat.

Glass wool is made from glass melt, according to its properties given view insulation is close to mineral wool, but has a lower thermal threshold of -450 ° C. Possesses good heat and sound insulating characteristics. Glass wool is frost resistant. Moisture can accumulate between the fibers of the glass wool, so waterproofing must be done correctly.

Mineral wool and glass wool allow you to insulate the roof with minimal financial investment. The disadvantages include the need to create a thick layer of insulation and several layers of vapor and waterproofing.

It is possible to insulate the roofing structure from the inside with the help of polymeric materials - expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. The advantages of polyurethane foam (gas-filled plastic) include a high ability to retain heat, lightness, durability. Polyurethane foam is vapor and moisture resistant. Extruded polystyrene foam allows you to effectively insulate the roof - its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05 W / m * K. The material is hydrophobic and does not allow steam to pass through. Flammability class from G1 to G4, depends on the grade of the material. The disadvantages of polymer insulation include their artificial origin and relatively high cost.

If there is a goal to build a house exclusively from environmentally friendly materials, you can insulate the roof with natural heat insulators. Despite the good indicators of thermal conductivity and environmental friendliness, various types of natural insulation have their disadvantages. Foamed glass is highly fragile. Granulated paper, as well as mats made from reeds, straw, seaweed and similar materials, are highly flammable and require special installation skills.

Insulation installation technology

To understand how best to perform the installation of thermal insulation when arranging a roofing pie, you must familiarize yourself in advance with step by step instructions performance of work. In general, the insulation of the roof of the house is reduced to the following actions:

• preparation of space for the installation of insulation;
• laying of an insulating layer;
• fixation of the material.

At the stage of preparing the project of the rafter structure, it is necessary to determine the step with which the rafters will be installed. It should be borne in mind that the rafter system must be reliable, that is, the step must not exceed the recommended values. If the type of insulation has been selected in advance, it is recommended to install the rafters in such a way that the mats or insulation plates fit tightly between them from the inside. This simplifies the technology of insulation and minimizes waste of thermal insulation material.

Above the thermal insulation, between the battens and the rafters, waterproofing is laid. The material is overlapped, laying starts from the lower edge of the ramp. Then wooden counter battens are mounted - their thickness creates the required roof ventilation gap. The slats can be attached to the rafters with nails, but it is better to use self-tapping screws. Insulation is laid and attached to the prepared structure from the inside between the rafters.

A rafter leg made of metal or wood is a cold bridge, since its coefficient of thermal conductivity is much worse than that of a heat insulator.

For this reason, when insulating the attic, you should not limit yourself to installing a heat insulator between the rafters - it is better to make a continuous heat-insulating layer on top of the already laid mats and rafters. For a continuous layer, it is better to use a thinner insulation. This method improves the quality of insulation. The disadvantages include the fact that in this case the rafters are hidden, and it is more difficult to use them in the future to fasten other structural elements. To facilitate the course of further work, the location of the rafters should be correctly noted.

A vapor-permeable film should be laid on top of the thermal insulation. Its use allows you to remove excess moisture. Then the prepared structure is fastened with a crate. On the the final stage work is carried out the inner lining of the ceiling. Correctly performed roof insulation allows all year round use the attic floor as a living space in which a favorable microclimate is maintained.

Insulation of the attic roof: how to insulate from the inside and the better, video

Find out how to insulate a mansard roof from the inside, and which type of insulation is better. Insulation technology, waterproofing and ventilation of the attic roof together with a training video

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands

Many homeowners succumb to the temptation to provide a comfortable residential attic in their home. Such a desire is natural, this is a wonderful opportunity to increase the area and living space of your home. In addition, it gives the building a special charm, brings a certain amount of romanticism to its appearance.

Special roof windows enhance the impression. Today, most of the new private housing is already being built immediately with an attic. But often, wishing to increase home ownership, and in not new houses, the owners equip and insulate old non-residential attics.

The mansards are located almost under the roof itself. What are the typical requirements for them? It is important that it is cool enough there in summer and dry and warm in winter. In order for a room to meet the aforementioned requirements, it is important to know what processes are taking place in it, to understand the essence of competent insulation.

Perform all the necessary work with my own hands not difficult, their technology is quite simple. The main thing for this is a conscientious partner and the availability of the necessary tools. If everything is done technologically correctly, the rafters made of wood will not get wet and will not rot, and the heat-insulating material will serve for a long time and reliably.

Attic: why do you need roof insulation?

Living under a roof is special. Its walls adjoin closely to the surface of the roof, while the ventilation gaps are only 10-15 cm in size. A characteristic feature of the room is connected with this - it instantly gets cold in winter, and literally gets hot before our eyes in summer. In winter, such a valuable heat for housing evaporates through the roof, while in summer it, on the contrary, heats up a lot, noticeably increasing the temperature of the room.

The processes that take place depend on the quality of ventilation, as well as the thermal conductivity of the materials used for manufacturing.

In the summer, it heats up, heating the entire structure, which is why the air in the room also heats up a lot. If a building has a familiar cold attic, then everything happens differently.

The function of a heat insulator in such housing is performed by the air in the attic room, and snow on its roof in winter.

The filling materials on the floor, together with the air, trap the heat coming from below, from the dwelling.

Thanks to this, even in very frosty winters, t in the attic is kept at about 0 degrees. Snow does not melt outside, being another additional insulator. In summer, t is regulated by vents on the pediments, which play a role of a kind ventilation system... How to insulate an attic?

Attic insulation: materials

The choice of the most suitable material is a very demanding task. After all, a lot depends on its type - the thickness of the insulation "cake" itself, the number of minimum layers in it.

Special requirements are imposed on it:

• Low thermal conductivity. A material with a coefficient not higher than 0.05 W / m * K is best suited.
• Ease. The weight of the material matters; it should not overload the roof.
• Low moisture permeability. If the roof suddenly leaks, it should not get wet and lose its qualities. Or it should be well insulated to avoid getting wet.
• Fire resistance. It is imperative that the material is non-flammable and does not sustain combustion.
• Elasticity, shape retention. Due to their location, lightweight mineral-based materials tend to creep away, leaving voids. Therefore, it is so important that he can keep his shape.
• Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
• Strength and durability.

Of course, all these points are ideal, but this does not happen often.

Glass wool

This is perhaps the most successful solution for insulating the attic roof from the inside. This is a plastic material that fits compactly between the rafters, covering all the free space. Mineral wool does not support combustion and does not burn itself. It is extremely lightweight and has excellent insulating properties.

Basalt wool in slabs remarkably retains its shape. Its disadvantage is that it easily absorbs steam and water, and therefore needs additional hydro and vapor barrier. This is very important: after all, if mineral wool gets wet, then it will irrevocably lose more than half of its useful qualities... If this happens, you will have to change it.

Despite this drawback, this is one of the most suitable materials for roof insulation from the inside. It is easy to work with her, she has an affordable price. Strict adherence to technological instructions when working with it neutralizes possible disadvantages.

This is a very popular and demanded material. But the use of expanded polystyrene for warming the attic should be considered in more detail.

The material has individual characteristics that can be considered virtually unique.

This is its extremely low thermal conductivity, minimum weight, low moisture permeability, ideally rigid shape.

But along with these wonderful positive qualities, it also has obvious disadvantages. Different grades of material have different degrees of fire resistance. And for insulation, its flammable varieties are often used. And this is extremely dangerous. When ignited, the fire rises, and if the insulation catches fire, it will be almost unrealistic to survive in such a blazing attic.

For work, expanded polystyrene is not very convenient, so when cutting, cutting and installing it crumbles quite a lot. When using it, gaps remain between the rafters, and they have to be somehow repaired. From time to time, it collapses, and begins to crumble even more. Based on all of the above, we can conclude that using foam in this case is not very reasonable.

Extruded expanded polystyrene

This is a wonderful material for insulating the attic from the outside, for laying under the roof, on the rafters. It is quite durable, perfectly retains its shape, it is not afraid of high humidity and, which is very important, it does not burn. Special attention should be paid to the fact that insulation requires a not very thick layer - 5-10 cm.

Polyurethane foam

This is a new generation material. With the help of a special installation, it is blown into the voids of the material to be insulated, leaving no gaps and holes. Such spraying prevents the formation of cold bridges.

This material is not afraid of fire and water, it is lightweight, durable, keeps its shape well. But he also has a minus - he has an extremely low vapor permeability index: he hardly breathes. Consequently, without the arrangement of forced ventilation, there will always be high humidity in the attic.

Perhaps this is one of the most suitable materials for insulation from the inside, and its use is actually an ideal option.

He, like the previous one, penetrates into the smallest holes, filling all the gaps.

It is also extremely lightweight, is not afraid of moisture, does not support combustion at all and breathes perfectly.

In addition, its fundamental difference from other materials is that it is completely harmless to health and absolutely environmentally friendly. Neither the smallest particles, nor even the evaporation of ecowool can harm health, unlike the same mineral wool.

Attic roof: how to insulate from the inside

When choosing the best way to insulate the attic roof, you should pay attention not only to the performance characteristics of the insulating material, but also to the specific features of its application. The most convenient way to insulate a room is from the inside: if there are no contraindications to such, and space allows.

Various types of insulation are used for this - both mineral wool and extruded foam, ecowool or polyurethane foam are blown out. The key to the reliability and durability of materials is the observance of a competent combination, or "pie" of roof insulation. This will also ensure the comfort of living under it, that is, in the attic room.

Warming cake - from the inside out

When using wadded materials for insulation, a vapor barrier film must be used. With its help, mineral wool will not be exposed to moisture coming from the living space with steam.

Regardless of the chosen insulation, waterproofing is required in any case. Its purpose is to protect the wooden parts of the roof structure. The role of waterproofing is played by special superdiffuse membranes, which are distinguished by special qualities.

They can release steam to the outside, but do not allow moisture to pass through. A ventilation gap must be left between the roof and the waterproofing membrane. Its size can vary from 4 cm to 10 cm, depending on the material and type of roof. Through it, excess steam will be removed from the insulation.

Attic: roof insulation from the outside

It is more convenient to do this while construction is still underway.If it is already finished, you will have to remove the roofing material. The external method of roof insulation keeps all the available living space intact. The solutions of some designers also suggest playing up the roof rafters as decorative elements interior.

Technology

For external insulation, only plate material with a high density is used.

These include Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

Moisture is not afraid of him, and he does not need a vapor barrier. "Pie" for external insulation with expanded polystyrene looks like this:

• Extruded polystyrene foam in slabs;
• Waterproofing membrane;
• Ventilation gap with crate;
• Roof material.

An obvious plus of such insulation is free access to the rafters, at any time, making it easier to inspect and even repair them. The Penoplex insulation method over the rafters differs in that it allows you to equip a heat-insulating protective layer completely, preventing the creation of cold bridges.

If a special curtain wall system is used for insulation, glass wool with waterproofing and vapor barrier films can be used as insulation. And under the planned wet facade, you can successfully put ordinary foam. The main thing for success is strict adherence to technology.

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands

How to insulate the roof of the attic with your own hands? Insulation methods from the inside and outside. We will choose insulation: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, etc. Roof insulation =>

Insulation of the attic roof

If the attic space remains uninhabited, the air in the under-roof space serves as good thermal insulation (along with insulation of the floor). In the case of the attic, everything is completely different: here the thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only to insulate the attic, but also to create such conditions for the entire roofing system to serve for a long time.

Insulation of a broken roof of an attic type must be carried out according to certain rules

Let's say right away that all wood that is used in the construction of the roof must be treated with antiseptics. Indeed everything: both the battens and counter-battens, and the rafters. All wooden parts. It is also necessary to make them less flammable. To do this, they are treated with fire retardants. All elements that are located on the street side are treated with compounds for outdoor use. Treat all wooden parts facing the inside of the room with impregnations for interior work. If you use the compound for outdoor use indoors, the specific smell will remain for several years. If, on the contrary, the wood outside can be damaged: the degree of protection is insufficient. Therefore, do not skimp on this matter.

More. Before describing how to insulate an attic roof with your own hands, it is worth recalling this: a ventilation system should be organized in the under-roof space. For this, special ventilation holes are arranged on the ridge. Through them, the air from under the roofing material leaves, taking away excess moisture. And it should get under the roofing through the overhangs. It is categorically impossible to do everything hermetically there. Air is drawn from there. Only in this way the condensate will dry out in a timely manner and the roof will serve for a long time.

In order for the insulation to be correct and moisture to be removed in a timely manner, it is necessary to move air masses under the roofing material

Correct insulation of the attic

To keep the attic floor warm in winter and cool in summer, there were no problems with high humidity, icicles did not freeze on the roof, it is necessary to properly insulate the roof. But in the case of a roof, insulation, steam and waterproofing is a complex solution, and one without the other works very badly, or does not work at all.

If the sloping roof is also the walls of the attic floor, the cake will be as follows (from inside to outside):

• inner lining (drywall or lining);
• lathing;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation (the thickness of the insulation depends on the region and the parameters of the insulation, for central Russia it is about 200 mm);
• superdiffusion membrane;
• ventilation gap;
• lathing;
• roof covering.

How to insulate a mansard roof: a sequence of layers of a broken roof for a residential area

The photo shows the warming of a broken mansard roof in a graphic version. Please note: a superdiffusion membrane is laid over the insulation (indicated in blue). Its purpose is to prevent condensate or precipitation that has leaked through the roofing from entering the insulation and to remove the steam that has nevertheless got into the mineral wool, ensuring its drying. Therefore, with a vapor permeability of 1500 g / m 2. This layer is often called waterproofing (as it actually is), only the waterproofing is vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it fits exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and tightly fitting onto the insulation. Often, to save money, it is rolled over the rafters, but without pulling, but making a sag of 3-5 cm.This option also works well: moisture gets to the surface, and then rolls down and is taken out of the roof. Here is another one important point: the membrane must protrude into the gutter. Then moisture will be removed from the roof space.

You can also lay the waterproofing like this: with a slight sag, but definitely NOT pulling it

A few more points on the installation of the membrane. It rolls across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The first row runs into the gutter. The next one is rolled out with an overlap of 10-15 cm. And so on until the ridge. On the ridge, the membranes are cut from both sides along the upper edge and fixed. A strip is rolled along the ridge, descending from one and the other side of the roof. The result is a coating through which water flows down to the gutter itself.

Vapor barrier and the rules for its installation

It is worth mentioning separately about vapor barrier. This should also be a membrane. Polyethylene or polypropylene film will not work: its characteristics are not the same. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g / m 2) should be minimal. Ideally, it is zero. That is, this layer should not allow vapors to pass from the room into the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: when it gets wet, it loses more than half of its properties, and when it freezes in a wet state and then melts, it generally crumbles into dust.

Therefore, the vapor barrier film is also laid with the entry of one panel onto another. Moreover, these joints are glued with a special double-sided vapor-impermeable tape (it looks like adhesive rubber). Regular painting or stationery will not work. They do not provide 100% vapor protection. In addition to the joints, all joints are also glued: from below, from the sides, from above.

There is a line on the vapor barrier. She marks the border from which the next layer begins (this is the amount of overlap) and the line along which the canvases are fastened with tape

The vapor barrier is usually attached to the logs with staple staples or, as in the figure, with the strips of the inner lathing for the installation of the cladding. In this case, another ventilation gap is formed, which will dry out the finish and the membrane. This gap is desirable but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted directly over the membrane.

Thermal insulation

The better to insulate sloping roof- the question is difficult and there is no definite answer to it. Use mineral wool, only hard, with a density of 30-50 kg / m 3. Since mansard roofs tend to have a large slope angle, soft materials can slip. It is for this reason that it is better to take plates. Although in this case it is necessary to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the dimensions of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the slab, so that the material becomes a “bulge” between the beams and holds well.

It is necessary to lay the thermal insulation so that there are as few cold bridges as possible. For central Russia, usually 200-250 mm of mineral wool is required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between the rafters, the slabs are positioned so that the seams of one row overlap the next. The width of the insulation, as already mentioned, should be slightly wider than the distance between the rafters. Then the slab becomes tight, excluding the presence of cracks. If the width is wider / smaller, the material has to be cut. In this case, the chance of getting a smooth edge is small and there are many residues left.

If the dimensions of the rafters do not allow laying the entire insulation, strips of the required thickness are stuffed across from the side of the room. The remnants of the insulation are placed between them. A vapor barrier is already attached to it on top and, if necessary, a crate for finishing. This option is even better: cold bridges are completely excluded, even overlapping the rafters. This method requires a little more installation costs, but it will definitely be warmer in the attic, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate a mansard roof: the order of work

The device of the attic floor is so good that it allows you to stretch the end of the construction. Immediately, it is necessary to lay and fix the superdiffusion membrane on the rafters, on it the sheathing and roofing material. And the insulation of the attic can be done from the inside after a while.

But please note: the waterproofing layer must be installed together with the roof covering. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not install this membrane. As a result, it is either necessary to remove the roof and lay it, or to invent systems to correct this deficiency. The whole problem is that there is no cheap solution that guarantees the normal state of materials.

We insulate outside

If you do everything at once, the order of work is as follows:

• from the side of the room, a crate is stuffed across the rafters - thermal insulation will lie on it, instead of the crate, a cord or galvanized wire is sometimes attached;
• insulating material is laid on it from the side of the roof (according to all the rules, shifting the seams, making sure that there are no cracks);
• a superdiffusion membrane is rolled over the thermal insulation;
• the crate is stuffed;
• roofing is being laid;
• from the side of the room, a vapor barrier is fixed and glued;
• with or without lathing mount the trim.

Insulation of the attic roof from the outside: it's easy to work, the thermal insulation is placed on the lathing lined from below

With this option, it is not difficult to work with insulation: it is easy to lay it, it rests on a crate (laces).

Insulation from the inside

This option allows you to postpone the interior decoration for the required period (useful if there is a lack of funds). After installing the rafter system, here's what you need to do:

• roll out and secure the waterproofing;
• fill the crate (if necessary, counter-lattice);
• mount the roofing material.

For the first stage, these are all the necessary work. After the opportunity arises to continue, you will need to insulate the attic roof from the inside. It will not be so convenient to work: you will have to make an enclosing structure that will not allow the insulation to be pushed higher than necessary. The cotton wool itself will have to be fixed in some way: it strives to fall on the head. The order of work is as follows:

• between the lags with a step of 40-50 cm, fill the strips that will hold the thermal insulation, providing the required ventilation gap;
• thermal insulation of the required thickness is laid and fixed (the rules remain the same);
• the crate is nailed, holding the layers of insulation;
• a vapor barrier membrane is laid and glued;
• lathing and finishing material are mounted.

If you use plates, then it is also easy to insulate the attic from the inside.

A few notes on how you can lay the thermal insulation material. If these are mineral wool mats high density and their width is a little more than the step between the lags, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold well.

If rolled mineral wool is laid, everything is more complicated. Making the insulation of the attic roof from the inside, it is laid from the bottom up. Take a lace, construction stapler. Roll out the cotton wool, press it to the slats, fasten a piece of lace with staples, drawing the letter Z. This way you fasten the first layer, behind it - the second and all subsequent ones.

In general, if you want the attic roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density 30-50 kg / m 3. They are tough enough to keep their shape well. Softer roll materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope crumble, settling down, deteriorating the thermal insulation of the attic roof.

These are the consequences of installing rolled mineral wool of insufficient density.

The better to insulate the attic roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating a mansard roof is mineral wool. She is good, but not at all ideal: she is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

The roof is sheathed with foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polyfoam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but during combustion it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing grades (with special additives). It is better to use them for roof insulation for roof insulation.

The main advantage of foam: low price. It is mounted simply: a spar is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with polyurethane foam. It is convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with foam plastic: order plates the right size- 10-15 mm more than the gap between the rafters - and place them tightly. Due to their elasticity, they hold very well.

On the side of the roof, a ventilation gap is also left and waterproofing is laid. But she protects more wooden structure, since expanded polystyrene is not afraid of moisture, it does not practically absorb it, steam does not conduct. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not allow steam to pass through, it is necessary in the attic good system ventilation, and this is an additional cost.

EPPS has better characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of foam. It also has a locking system that reduces the risk of gaps through which heat will escape. Another plus: mice and insects do not like extruded polystyrene foam, fungi and mold do not grow on it. What limits its use: a solid price. And you also need a ventilation system.

EPS brands - Extrol, STIREX, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX (PRIMAPLEX), Styrofoam (Styrofom), KINPLAST (KINPLAST), Teploizolit, GREENPLEX (GREENPLEX). While the technology is the same, there are some differences in performance, so compare when choosing.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, multiplying in size, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is, perhaps, the only way to correct the situation today and to insulate the attic with high quality, if during the installation of the roofing they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

This is the process of warming with expanded polystyrene foam (left) and what happened as a result. Surplus is trimmed to the lag level

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition will be poured. In the case of a mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, from below and from above sheet material is nailed to them (fiberboard, gypsum fiber board, plywood, etc.).

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which the loosened cotton comes out under pressure. It fills all cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The process of insulating the attic roof with ecowool

The main advantage of ecowool in comparison with all the heaters described above is that it conducts steam. Can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated in a natural way, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be all the same, as well as the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

Attic insulation: inside, outside, materials

It is always tempting to use an attic space for living. For comfortable conditions, it is necessary to insulate the attic room. It can be made from inside and outside using different materials.

Insulation of mansard roofs from the inside, instructions and video

Increasingly, happy owners of suburban or private housing are tempted by the opportunity to build a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the square meters of living space and add personality to the standard building.

Recently, most suburban buildings are immediately built with an attic, but this does not mean that they have no problems with insulation and through them, as through old attics, up to 30% of the heat is still lost.

So that with the onset of winter cold weather on the attic floor it is warm and comfortable, and in the summer heat it is cool and the roof structure has served for a long time, you need to understand the features of the insulation of such a room and the processes taking place in it.

Moreover, all work can be done independently with an assistant and the necessary tools. The main thing is to follow all the rules and regulations for the insulation of such structures, and then the thermal insulation, like the entire roof, will serve for many years without major repairs.

In what cases may you need thermal insulation of the attic?

The attic floor is a specially designed room in which the walls practically merge into a single whole with the roof surface and the ventilation gap does not exceed 100–150 mm. Exactly because of this reason there is a rapid cooling of the room in winter and heating in the summer period of the year... The entire surface of the roofing structure is, as it were, a heat accumulator in the summer heat and through it the heat goes outside with the onset of cold weather. First of all, this is due to the level of thermal conductivity of the materials used for the construction of the roof.

In winter, heat flows from the batteries rise according to the laws of physics, being distributed under the roof vault and freely evaporating into the street, since the materials from which a standard roof is made easily conduct heat.

At the same time, the snow melts, which turning into ice, destroys the roof... In turn, in the summer heat, the air in the attic room becomes so hot that it becomes difficult to breathe. At the same time, to cool such a room, even a very powerful air conditioner cannot be obtained.

How to be in such a situation? There is only one answer - to qualitatively insulate the attic room by choosing the right heat-insulating material, the parameters of its thickness and the place of laying in the under-roof space, in compliance with the technological process.

For example, if the insulation is not made with a thick enough material, matched by eye, then the problem will be solved only partially and the room will still be cool and uncomfortable. Only insulation correctly selected in terms of thickness and thermal conductivity will allow you to qualitatively isolate the attic from the roof structure, and during construction proper ventilation all excess moisture will be quickly and easily removed to the outside.

How to insulate attic roofs - criteria for choosing a material for insulation

The choice of high-quality thermal insulation materials for insulating the attic from the inside is a very responsible process. The thickness and layering of the roofing cake will depend on the type of insulation and its main characteristics.

Due to the fact that the attic is a room of a specific design, then the choice of insulation should be based on the requirements for it:

It is very important to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation, which should be based on the characteristics of the construction region, the thickness of the walls of the house, the presence or absence of insulation, as well as the thickness of the roofing cake. All these parameters are of high importance and only on the basis of them, you can choose the right thickness of the thermal insulation material. If you skip the stage of calculations, then it is better to opt for mineral wool 25 cm thick.

What is the best way to insulate the attic from the inside?

For internal thermal insulation of the attic, you need to choose high-quality insulation based on the climatic characteristics of the region of the construction of the building. Due to the thermal engineering features, each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are the basis for the popularity of the material:

The technology of arranging a heat-insulating layer in the under-roof space of the roof with your own hands implies the use of either mineral basalt insulation or expanded polystyrene plates. Such materials are easy to work with and have high quality technical characteristics... Often a combination of roll material is used and insulation in the slabs. The mineral wool is laid between the roof rafters, and expanded polystyrene plates are mounted on top of it.

Insulation "pie" for thermal insulation of the attic

Only by observing the correct sequence of the insulation "cake" from the inside of the attic roof, you can achieve comfort and coziness in the room at any time of the year. Moreover, such a structure has the following layers:

A vapor barrier is a mandatory requirement for wadding insulation. Thanks to this, it is possible to qualitatively protect the mineral wool from steam and condensation. In the case of using polyurethane foam, a vapor barrier is not required.

A waterproofing layer is needed in all situations and will depend on its use high-quality protection of wooden elements of the roof structure... It is advisable to use diffusion-type membranes as waterproofing, which freely pass vapors outside and do not let moisture into the room.

It is imperative that an air ventilation gap of at least 50 mm must remain between the layers of the heat insulator and the waterproofing material. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture from the insulation.

Insulation of the roof attic from the inside between the rafters

The process of internal insulation of the attic roof should begin at the stage of construction. This is the only way to check the correctness of the layers of the roofing "pie". In this case, it is advisable to make up with your own hands detailed diagram attic room and mark on it the places to be insulated from the inside.

Very often, the attic structure has a trimmed structure. Simply put, between the lower part of the roof slope and the interior decoration of the room, there is a free space that does not need to be insulated. But in such a situation, it is important to insulate the floor at the very edge of the roof structure.

At this stage, all work on the attic insulation can be considered completed. But in order to fully understand the essence of the installation process, you can familiarize yourself with the video, insulation of the roof of the attic floor. If you plan to insulate the attic in an old building, and there is no desire to disassemble the roofing structure, then there is a little trick. The waterproofing layer is rolled out directly from the inside of the attic, wrapping the rafter beams and introducing the material into the space between them. But in such a situation, it will not be possible to protect wooden beams in case of leakage of roofing material.

Construction of thermal insulation from the inside under the rafters

A mansard roof, the insulation of which is carried out from the inside, when the thermal insulation is laid on top of the rafter structure, and not in the space between adjacent beams, turns out to be very warm. Thanks to this method, it is possible to avoid cold bridges, which are wooden beams. With this method, the insulation will fit tightly to the bottom of the beams, and the resulting space will serve as additional ventilation. But it must be borne in mind that in such a situation, the usable area will be reduced on all sides by 300 mm. The very same installation process of warming the attic from the inside is due to the following activities:

Do-it-yourself work on insulating the attic roof is a fairly simple process and does not require high professionalism or expensive materials. Therefore, to figure out how to insulate the attic is within the power of everyone, even with minor skills in the repair issue.

Insulation of the attic roof: how and how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, video

Features of warming the attic roof with mineral wool with your own hands. Various ways insulation of roof structures on the attic floor.