How to make a blind area of concrete around the house? How to make a blind area around the house: do it right according to the instructions with your own hands How to properly fill the slopes around the house

The blind area is a special coating around the perimeter of the building, which performs a protective function, preventing the harmful effects of precipitation on the foundation of the building. It is strongly recommended not to neglect this element, especially if the foundation is not protected in any way. Now we will figure out how to make a blind area around the house with our own hands, what points need to be foreseen and do not forget to focus on the important components of this process.

As already noted, the blind area protects the foundation of the building. It is made inclined, so that rain and melt water flow away from the walls and the basement. This prevents the harmful effects of moisture, and simply makes it impossible for water to accumulate near the walls.

Also, the blind area plays the role of a kind of stabilizer, strengthening the soil and preventing its displacement due to temperature differences and uneven subsidence. Properly chosen laying depth significantly increases the strength of the base, and also provides additional insulation. Thus, the depth of soil freezing near the house will be greater than without a similar element.

If your house has a basement or cellar, the blind area will perfectly help keep it from the cold. This is especially true for houses in which a garage or a gym is provided in the basement, that is, the room is not just for storing things, but is actively used.

And finally, the blind area performs a decorative function, especially if you decorate it in the future with some elements, which we will tell you about at the end of the article. And now let's proceed to the direct construction of this element with our own hands.

Training

First of all, you need to decide on the type of blind area. In the vast majority of cases, ordinary concrete is made - it is much simpler and cheaper than other options. In addition, a well-prepared concrete solution will last a considerable time and save you from having to redo something, although regular maintenance and minor repairs will still be necessary.

We will consider other types of blind areas at the end of the article. The process of laying such options is not much different from concrete, but the cost of materials will be much higher.

So, before you make a blind area around the house, you need to thoroughly clean the place to work. The cut begs the question with dimensions: how wide should this element be? There is a clear rule here. Measure the protrusion of your roof and add at least 20 cm to the figure. This will be the minimum width of your blind area. As a rule, most blind areas are made from 60 to 100 cm wide, so when preparing the site for work, consider approximately these dimensions with a margin.

Make a marking of the future blind area and drive in pegs for a guide around the perimeter and pull the ropes. Carefully monitor the uniformity of the width around the entire perimeter of the house, as this is the main factor in the future visual beauty. Clear the soil of debris and large stones. By the way, work is best done in dry weather, preferably before the onset of cold weather. Optimally - at the end of summer.

In the perimeter marked for the blind area, we remove the soil layer to a depth of 25-30 cm. We act very carefully, achieving a uniform depth around the entire perimeter. After that, carefully tamp the bottom. If, after removing the soil layer, you find large roots of various plants, it is recommended to remove them. This will reduce the harmful effect on the blind area.

If necessary, treat the soil with special herbicides, especially if you see deep enough roots in the area. Plants, over time, can deform the blind area, while the reason will not be immediately clear, and repairing the structure will be quite difficult. Therefore, carefully get rid of large roots, even if you have to dig several holes.

We proceed to the manufacture of formwork. For this purpose, it is recommended to use boards with a thickness of about 20 mm. With a step of about 1.5 meters, we drive support posts into the ground along the edge of the dug trench and attach our formwork to them. Make sure that the boards lie evenly and do not create irregularities, since the aesthetics of the blind area will depend on this. After that, go to the "pillows" tab.

If you want to make a blind area with your own hands with a high degree of insulation from moisture, it is recommended to lay a layer of clay directly on the ground. This layer will act as additional protection. Next, we pour a layer of sand about 10 cm thick on the clay and compact it tightly. You can dampen this sand a little to create more density, but don't overdo it with water.

Next, a layer of gravel is laid on top of the sand layer. This layer should be about 8-10 cm thick and consist of fine rock (preferably). As for the reinforcement of the base, it can be omitted, although experts recommend not skipping this stage for greater strength of the blind area. It is possible to reinforce using reinforcement with a section of 6-10 mm, laying it along or across in increments of 10 cm. Please note that the concrete pouring area must be evenly covered with reinforcement.

It is important to remember about such a detail as an expansion joint. It is a small indent necessary to prevent deformation of the basement due to thermal expansion of the blind area itself and shrinkage of the soil.

It is recommended to make an expansion joint with a width of about 150 mm. You can fill this seam with a mixture of sand and gravel, but it is better to use special materials, such as polyethylene foam tow. Please note that the tourniquet should be slightly thicker than the gap itself to create density. Be sure to provide for a protrusion of the bundle above the surface of the seam by about half its depth. It is necessary to lay the seam very tightly. As an alternative to such a tourniquet, you can use a sealant, but if you do not have the opportunity to purchase such materials, feel free to use sand and gravel.

Preparation of cement mortar and pouring

The preparation of the cement mortar is carried out according to the technology, which depends on the brand of cement. You should use cement grade not lower than M200. Be sure to prepare a concrete mixer for this purpose, since manual mixing will not allow you to achieve the desired consistency.

Pay attention to the correct formulation of the preparation of the solution. Here it is necessary to accurately maintain the proportions, since measurements "by eye" can later result in the appearance of cracks and the need to redo the work.

So, based on 1 cubic meter the finished solution, we need to withstand the following proportions:

Cement - 280 kg;
Construction sand - 840 kg;
Crushed stone - 1400 kg;
Pure water - 190 l.

We calculate the proportions based on cement grade M400 or M500, while the solution will turn out to be quite dry, but we need it that way. The thing is that the blind area should be with a given slope, and the more liquid version will not keep its shape and will simply spread.

It is important to know the rules of kneading. A portion of cement is loaded into the concrete mixer and kneaded for about 20 minutes. This is necessary to create a uniform dry product consistency. After that, sand is introduced in 3-4 doses, carefully kneading each additive. Crushed stone is introduced in the same way. Water must be supplied with a gentle stream, pouring in the entire portion in about 4-5 turns. Next, the mixture is stirred for another 2-3 minutes.

To make a blind area good quality, it is necessary to provide additional expansion joints, similar to those described above. Every 1.5-2 meters along the perimeter of the blind area we install wooden slats, perpendicular to the basement of the house. Reiki are installed on the edge. Do not forget that the blind area should be inclined, so be sure to allow for a difference in height of about 2-3 cm per meter. In other words, there should be a difference in height of about 5-6 cm between the beginning of the blind area 2 meters wide and its end. the edges of the structure.

Reiki can be treated with special mastic to increase their strength and protection against decay, and then proceed to the direct pouring of the mixture. When pouring, do not forget to compact the concrete - this can be done with an improvised tool, such as a shovel or chopper. You should “pierce” the concrete layer and reciprocate the compaction. If you have a special electric vibrator for these purposes, the work will go faster.

To smooth the concrete layer, we use the following technology. We take a long and even rail and holding it perpendicular to the installed expansion joints, smooth the surface of the poured mixture. Wooden slats, which we have installed as expansion joints, will act as beacons when smoothing, so you can easily achieve a smooth surface.

In the same way, we pour concrete around the entire perimeter of the future blind area. It is advisable to carry out this stage of work in one approach, that is, do not postpone the filling of certain parts for later. You should pour the entire perimeter at once, being especially careful not to allow the concrete to set tightly in places adjacent to the pour, in order to prevent future cracks. Thus, you should get a monolithic blind area with a flat surface. Be sure to control even the smallest details of the process.

Drying

So, the blind area with your own hands is almost ready. Now you need to wait for the concrete to completely harden. The hardening time of the blind area depends on the thickness of the solution layer. In our case, this is about 10 cm. It will take about 5 days to completely solidify, and, depending on the weather, you need to monitor the process. In hot weather, you can cover the blind area with a cloth and moisten it periodically. A little rain will not interfere with the process, but excess moisture is also not needed, so stock up on plastic sheeting. In a week you can start finishing work(if you want), or leave the blind area as it turned out.

By the way, about the finish. Many try to decorate the blind area with a border. In fact, a good design does not need this detail, but for aesthetic reasons, a small border can still be provided. Also often cover the blind area with a variety of decorative tiles. It's easy to do.

A few words about maintenance and repair

Now you know how to make a blind area at home with your own hands, but you also need to know how to care for or repair it. With proper laying of the blind area, there will be no problems for quite some time, but after a few years, cracks may still appear, especially if your house is in a rather difficult climatic zone with frequent precipitation and temperature changes.

So, to eliminate small cracks, you can use a liquid cement mortar in proportions of 1: 1 or 1: 2. Just carefully pour the mortar into the cracks and work with a spatula to level the surface. Carefully inspect the entire perimeter and eliminate any cracks found.

For large cracks, it is necessary to prepare a special solution consisting of bitumen, fine slag and asbestos in proportions of 7:1:1.5. Cracks must be cut down to the very foundation and carefully cleaned. After that, fill the solution and fill it with sand on top. After drying, the surface can be leveled.

It is important to remember that repairs should be carried out in cool weather, at least in the morning. The thing is that under the influence of heat, the concrete expands, and the cracks decrease, so in the heat you will not be able to do the job well.

Other types of blind area

We settled on the concrete version, but if you go to make a blind area for the house with your own hands from other materials, then you can safely use such popular options as stone, paving stones or paving slabs for this. It is easier to work with this material, although the work will be significantly more expensive than in the case of the concrete version.

Laying such a blind area lies in the fact that the preparatory procedures and the creation of a “cushion” do not differ from the concrete version. After completion of these works, the selected material is laid on top of the created "pillow", after which it is carefully compacted. The gaps are filled with sand.

The do-it-yourself blind area of their stone, tile or paving stones is quite durable and resistant to atmospheric influences, and the relative high cost of materials can be considered a disadvantage in them. It is worth noting that care for such an option should be more frequent than for concrete, especially after serious temperature fluctuations or significant precipitation.

From a decorative point of view, this option, of course, looks more beautiful than an ordinary concrete blind area. But you can provide for the finish for the one we talked about in the article. In this case, you will spend less material and the work will be cheaper.

What type of blind area to choose is up to you. We tried to talk about the main elements of the procedure and focus on important nuances. With such knowledge, you can easily cope with the work and make your house and yard not only protected, but also beautiful.

The blind area is a simple element that can significantly extend the life of a building. It is also an indispensable part of decorating the local area.

That do-it-yourself blind area around the house looks presentable, matching or matching the materials from which the sidewalk and the entrance to the garage are paved.

Answering the question of how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands and why it is needed at all, it would be useful to list the functions of this structure.

Protective. A properly built blind area with your own hands protects the foundation from prolonged contact with the foundation. The design provides for the drainage of water directly into the sewer.
Decorative. The blind area around the house gives the building a complete and solid look.
Prevention of swelling of the soil. Reducing soil freezing will avoid swelling of the soil. What's the use? There will be no soil shifts around the foundation, which means that its integrity will not be violated.
Thermal insulation. The blind area of the house significantly reduces the freezing of the soil and the foundation as a whole. Thanks to this, the floors will be warm and the heat will not leave the house.
Protects the plinth from dirt.

Where you may need a blind area

The blind area must be built not only near each capital building, but also near small buildings. This will create a slope for water to drain and protect the foundation. Its importance is not exaggerated at all, since this structure, made of concrete and bulk materials, has already established itself as a reliable foundation protection for many years. This means that having learned how to properly make a blind area around the house, you will not once again spend money on repairing the basement, and the walls will not crack from constant exposure to moisture.

What are the blind areas

The blind area is built taking into account how you are going to operate it in the future. The first step is to decide whether it will only perform a decorative function or be used as a sidewalk. In the first case, the slope can be made large, and in the second - minimal. Depending on their characteristics, blind areas are of different categories.

Types of blind area:

multilayer and two-layer;
cast, prefabricated and bulk;
soft and hard pads.

The following materials can be used:

wood;
tile;
concrete;
reinforced concrete slabs;
bricks;
cobblestones;
asphalt.

3 conditions for efficiency

In order for your blind area for the house to be effective in terms of protecting the foundation from excess water, the following conditions must be considered.

The first and most important rule is that the blind area should be made with a slope towards the site. The type of coverage affects the slope. A reliable concrete blind area should have a slope of at least 5-10 degrees.
In width, it should exceed the overhang of the roof by 30 centimeters. On heaving soils, it is made no longer than one meter, on sandy soils - at least 0.6 meters.
The correct blind area is built around the entire house without gaps. Since the settlement at the blind area and at the foundation is different, it is necessary to build an expansion joint, which is covered with sand, filled with bitumen or filled with sealant.

Popular blind area devices

When cladding the facade with panels, siding or stone cladding, the blind area plays an important role, since it is the basis for installing the cladding.

In its absence, a noticeable gap appears between the skin and the ground level. This, probably, should not even be talked about, because no one will finish their facade without a pre-built blind area.

Concrete is the easiest option

The technology involves the creation of 2 layers. The first layer is the underlayment. It is necessary to create an even compacted base. For this, the following materials can be used: fine gravel, clay and sand. The choice of materials for creating the sub-base depends on what materials will be used for the second layer. The coating must be waterproof and resistant to moisture.

Markup. The required dimensions of the structure were discussed above. The earth is removed and compacted around the entire perimeter of the building. The earth is being prepared exactly for the marked width. For a concrete structure, the earth is taken out to a depth of at least 25 cm.
Formwork. To create the formwork, a board with a thickness of 20 mm is used. A layer of clay is placed on the compacted earth, which is also compacted. After that, a 10-centimeter layer of sand is laid. To make a good seal, it is spilled with water. Now a layer of crushed stone of 60 mm is laid.
Reinforcement. The use of reinforcing mesh increases the stretching of the blind area in tension and compression. In addition, it will be quite difficult to destroy it - maintainability and vandal resistance increase. Reinforcing mesh is purchased with delivery to the facility. The mesh is usually sold in sheets of 2x6 meters, which is very convenient. You can fold it in half so that the width is 1 meter, this is ideal for reinforcement. You can cut the mesh with an ordinary grinder into fragments 1x2 meters in size. You can also cut into 3-meter pieces, but due to the heavy weight it is very inconvenient to carry them. The mesh is mounted in the formwork so that the distance from it to the crushed stone cushion is 2 cm. This is done in order to place the mesh inside the concrete, not on the pillow. No difficulties should arise, because no matter how you ram the pillow, pebbles will always remain above the surface. The cut fragments of the mesh must be overlapped. Excess wires are bent or cut off by a grinder. Reinforcement is the fastest and easiest step. This is enough for 2 people.
Pouring concrete. When pouring concrete, the mesh can strongly bend - the concrete will begin to squeeze it out. You will need to quickly tamp the area or, after solidification, start cutting off excess fragments. It should be noted that this is not an easy procedure.

Waterproof option

If you are planning to make a drainage system, then a permeable system is suitable for you. This is the easiest option. Geotextile material is laid in a compacted trench, on which expanded clay, pebbles, gravel or crushed stone are laid.

Geotextile material is used to prevent crushed stone from being pressed into the base. Having chosen such a blind area, you should be prepared for the fact that it will have to be corrected regularly, and walking on it is not very convenient.

The use of paving slabs

To create a solid layer, crushed stone with sand can be used, on top of which the tiles are laid. Here you can not do without the creation of a drainage system. You can also create waterproofing at the base of the blind area with water drained into the sewer.

We prepare the base. The earth is dug to a depth of tile size + 10 cm. To create the effect of water resistance, clay is used, which is laid at an angle to a height of 10 cm.
PVC waterproofing layer, laid on top of the clay. Waterproofing is attached to the wall with a metal strip. Next, sand is laid with a layer of 4 centimeters, which is leveled and compacted.
Only now you can start laying paving slabs. The solution should consist of concrete and water in a ratio of 1:4. The solution should be very thick. Tiles begin to be laid from the corner. After laying, 4 tiles are removed and a mortar is laid in their place with a layer of 4 centimeters. We install paving slabs in place using spacers and a hammer.
After laying all the tiles and removing all the wooden spacers, it is necessary to fill the seams with sand. For the most dense filling with sand, the tile is poured with water. Even a well-made seam during operation must be periodically covered with sand.

Concrete pavement repair

We have already figured out the question of how to make a blind area with our own hands, but what to do with its breakdowns? If damage is found, repairs should be made as soon as possible to prevent the spread of structural failure. Repair should begin with determining the boundaries of the damaged area.

Several significant potholes can be combined into 1 damage. The damaged asphalt pavement is cut to the full depth with wedges and cleaned of dust. The edges, walls and bottom are lubricated with liquefied bitumen and poured with concrete. The new coating is laid a little higher than the old one, which will provide a better connection between the sections.

To repair peeling cracks and potholes, the following are used:

fine-grained concrete;
cement-sand mortars;
sealing pastes;
rubber-bitumen mastics.

During construction, it is very important to properly make a blind area around the house. It allows to reduce the amount of splashes of dirt during rain, which reduces the pollution of the facade. However, poor design can lead to waterlogged foundation walls. There are several opinions among specialist builders on how to make a blind area around the house correctly with their own hands.

Some believe that the implementation of a moisture-proof blind area, such as concrete, will effectively drain rainwater from the wall. Others argue that this element is built purely for aesthetic reasons, serving as narrow "sidewalks" along the façade.

The third popular opinion is that the main function of the blind area is to keep the house clean, as it helps to avoid pollution during rain.

So, how to make a simple blind area around the house from stone, tiles and other materials, what to look for, how to prepare the base and what materials to choose - this will be discussed in the article.

The blind area around the house - how to do it right and why is it needed?

First of all, it is worth understanding how rainwater affects the outer walls of the building. When it rains, water soaks into the ground (through a lawn or a permeable strip around a house made of rubble, tiles, or other materials). Some of the water will soak up to the level ground water. However, some of it will rise up the soil capillaries and evaporate from the surface, which is sometimes referred to as soil "self-draining". In the case of a waterproof blind area, for example, made of concrete, a constantly wet zone of soil directly under the house may appear, which is in contact with the foundation walls. In practice, this will have an adverse effect on the walls of the foundation, moisture can penetrate into the building, contribute to the occurrence of fungus, especially if the house has a basement.

How to make a blind area around the house - video

Many experts in last years it is recommended to isolate the foundations with a waterproofing membrane film. Diffusion film membranes allow the walls to “breathe” and better drain water from foundations (through a system of tubules in their structure). This is only true when the water has a place through which it will pass to the outside to evaporate. If we place membrane film under a waterproof blind area, it won't do its job.

In this case, the blind area must be made permeable, for example, from decorative stone or tiles laid on sand, gravel or gravel mixture (in this case, concrete or cement-sand bedding should not be used). The border of the blind area must also be made, for example, a concrete rim or a plastic rim.

blind area functions

According to most experts, the blind area at home performs two main functions:

First of all, it allows you to keep the facade clean, as rainwater splashes, bouncing off the tiles or stone, which leads to mud splashing on the walls.
The second function is to improve the aesthetics of the building (of course, this is already a matter of taste for each of us).

This is not the only possible application. This element of the building can also serve as an auxiliary walkway around the house, as well as support for stairs or scaffolding for facade maintenance or window cleaning. Every year it becomes more and more important, as mechanical ventilation becomes widespread, in which windows that cannot be opened are often installed in the house. In this case, the only access to them is the outer wall of the building.

How to choose the right blind area?

In order for the blind area to perform these functions, it cannot be too narrow. However, the most commonly used width is 40-60 cm, it will be enough for the main task, but it will not work in any of the additional functions listed above. A width of 80 - 90 cm will make the blind area relatively comfortable. For the passage of two people, this width increases to at least 120, but preferably up to 150 cm. As for the “walk around the house” function, in practice it does not have much practical use, since it is much more convenient to navigate along the paths built directly in the garden than along the narrow sidewalks on the facade.

It should be borne in mind that paths leading to the entrance to the building located too close to the wall will lead to a much faster pollution of the facade. For the same reason, you should not attach the blind area to the group of the main communication line. If there is enough space, it is better to separate it with a narrow strip of greenery from the sidewalk. This will greatly improve usability and help maintain cleanliness.

Finally, the width of the blind area is selected to the module of the selected tile or stone format. For example, we decided to use 18.2 x 18.2 cm tiles - then it makes no sense to create a 70 cm wide strip, because it means reducing almost all elements and a significant increase in labor and waste costs. Instead, choose 55 cm (18.2 × 3), 73 cm (18.2 × 4) or 91 cm (18.2 × 5). This will reduce the amount of waste to almost zero (tile elements will be laid entirely or cut in half). For the same reason, when choosing trapezoidal tiles or other non-equilateral shapes, it is better to place them along the facade.

How to make a blind area around the house with tiles or stone?

We already know how to choose the shape of the blind area and what functions should correspond to it. Therefore, the only question is how to make a blind area? This is not particularly difficult as it is structurally the same as other sidewalks and paths made of stone or paving slabs.

The best choice is a blind area made of paving slabs or stone, it can be made of decorative stone, pebbles or more popular paving slabs. The main function of this design is to protect the facade from dirt and slush, as well as protect the foundation from moisture.

The most popular blind area natural stone, gravel, paving slabs.

Work begins with a trench (it is important to remove all the humus, which is quite simple to do), then a foundation is made, a leveling pad and a surface of tiles or stone. However, there are some additional rules.

First of all, you need to make sure that the level of the planned strip will be below the upper edge of the vertical insulation of the foundation. Otherwise, the walls of the building may become damp. To protect against snow, it is recommended to carry out vertical insulation at least 30 cm above the level of the blind area.

Second important point- evasion. It must provide drainage from the building. For normal conditions, the slope should be 2%. This means a 2 cm height difference for a strip width of 1 m. It is also important that the upper edge of the border does not protrude above the plane of the tile. It should be flush with its bottom edge.

outer wall building.
Blind area border.
Tiles, stone.
Priming.
Vertical insulation of the building.
Sand bedding.
Sloping bedding.
The base of the building.

This design is very simple in execution and does not require precise compliance with height differences. This is due to the fact that water very quickly penetrates through the stone layer into the soil. What is the best way to make a blind area around the house from decorative stone? The top layer can be made using decorative stones or coarse gravel. The most aesthetic solution is white stone, but at the same time it can quickly become dirty.

It is recommended that the top layer of stone be about 15 cm thick. The stones should be spread on an even layer of sand about 10-15 cm thick. This solution will ensure that rainwater flows quickly into the ground, as well as the substrate dries quickly.

The structure should be fenced with a concrete or granite curb. The absence of a border will quickly lead to the "spread" of stones into the garden. In this case, any stones that fall on the lawn can damage the lawnmower.

For a gravel and stone strip, a curb should be installed so that it protrudes about 2 cm above the level of the stones. This will protect the blind area from falling stones or gravel onto the grass. At the same time, you need to make sure that the lawn behind him is also about 2 cm lower, which will prevent dirt from being applied to the layer of stones.

In order to keep the side stable and ensure a constant width of the blind area for many years, it is worth reinforcing it from the outside with concrete, or building a support. In addition, this design will allow you to work in the garden in the immediate vicinity of the house (for example, dig a trench for drainage or laying cables, etc.) without damaging it.

Paving slabs are much easier to maintain than stone construction. In the case of stones, after a few years it is most often necessary to replace their upper layer (about 5 cm) with new, clean stones in the desired color (most often white stones). At the same time, we must not forget that it is undesirable to use concrete pouring or a mixture of cement / sand, as this will interfere with the free movement and evaporation of water.

You can use paving slabs or granite with a thickness of 4-6 cm for the blind area of the house. There is no need to use paving slabs (8 cm thick), since there is no traffic or other extreme impact.

Geotextiles can be laid under paving slabs and sand. The cost of creating such a structure depends mainly on the material of its upper layer.

In terms of functionality, both solutions are similar. Therefore, the choice is best made mainly by considering the decision in terms of financial matters, since the cost of sand and sand-gravel mixture in each region is different, as well as the availability of any of these materials in the construction market.

In the case of paving slabs, it is important to maintain a proper height difference between the pavement and the lawn. It is recommended that this difference be 1-2% or even 2-4%, which means with a strip width of 0.5 m - the difference in levels will be 1-2 cm. walls and foundations (water in the gap between the tiles penetrates much more slowly than through a stone path).

When laying tiles, it is very important to carefully compact the layer of sand bedding, because if the sand is not compacted, the tiles will settle unevenly. If the blind area is made of decorative stone, thorough sand compaction is not necessary (only a small surface compaction is required).

The tile must be necessarily limited by the side. In the case of a concrete curb, it is recommended that it be slightly lower than the tile (by 0.5-1 cm), which will improve the outflow of rainwater onto the lawn.

Curb for paving slabs - concrete, granite or plastic?

In the case of a decorative blind area made of stone best solution there will be a concrete pavement curb 6 or 4 cm thick. A granite option is also available. In turn, in the case of paving slabs, you can use both concrete and plastic border for paving slabs.

Laying geotextiles in the design of the blind area at home

Placing a geotextile (or so-called permeable agrofibre) under the sand layer will limit the growth of weeds and other vegetation. However, it is important that the fabric is permeable in both directions (top and bottom). In this place, the placement of sealed insulating films is not allowed.

Geotextiles can be laid out along the entire length of the blind area of the house, with an overlap of subsequent strips of about 30-50 cm. This material will not completely limit the growth of vegetation, but will significantly reduce the scale of this phenomenon. In practice, this will make it easier to maintain a good appearance designs.

To improve the appearance between the elements of paving slabs or stone, you can mark lighting fixtures, diversify the design with flower beds and other garden decor.

When it comes to aesthetic issues, color is of paramount importance. It should be remembered that the blind area around the house is not the most important element of the whole, therefore it should not dominate environment. It should be harmonized with the facade, but it should merge with it, as this can greatly spoil the proportions of the building. If we do not have much experience in choosing colors, and we are afraid of experimenting - "safer" will be a slightly darker color than the front of the house. It is also good if it is made of a material and color that matches garden paths around the house.

Building a house is a complex process. It consists of several main steps, most often obvious and necessary. But there are also a few things that can be overlooked, but if done, they will greatly improve the aesthetics and comfort of the building. These include the blind area around the house. First of all, it will protect the lower part of the facade from dirt, and also provide an aesthetic separation of the house from the garden. However, in order for the architecture of the building to be complemented and not spoiled, it is important to carefully consider the project and choose the right material.

Even the strongest foundation is exposed to moisture over time, which gradually reduces the load on the drainage system of the house, as well as on vertical waterproofing. To prevent this from happening, do-it-yourself concrete blind area is performed, the step-by-step instructions of which will be discussed in the article.

Concrete blind area is a necessary coating to protect the foundation

In addition to its main function (protection against interaction with moisture), this coating also allows you to arrange a pedestrian zone around the perimeter of the house and give the architectural appearance of the building a complete look.

However, before pouring the blind area, you need to pay attention to its design features and requirements for construction objects of this type.

blind area design

The concrete pavement has quite simple design, for the preparation of which you will need the following materials:

Bedding (pillow). It is performed before pouring the solution. As a bedding use the most different materials: coarse or medium sand, sand and gravel mixture, crushed stone, fine gravel. The blind area of the foundation does not fit on fine sand because of the likelihood of shrinkage, since in this case there is a risk that the base will crack. It is best to prepare a two-layer pillow: first lay gravel or crushed stone, which will compact the soil, and then sand.
Reinforcement. The presence of a reinforcing mesh for a concrete blind area will give the structure more strength. The mesh size of this product is usually 30 x 30 or 50 x 50 cm. The mesh diameter should be about 6-8 mm, but it all depends on the type of soil.
Formwork. Wooden guides located along the perimeter of the coating are required, as they will prevent the concrete mixture from spreading. The width of the formwork boards, as a rule, is 20-25 mm.
Concrete solution. Filling the blind area is carried out using a certain composition of the concrete mixture.

The brand of mortar must be carefully selected, since the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend on its quality and characteristics. For such a coating, Mixture M 200 is usually used, the strength class of which is at least B 15 (a higher grade can also be purchased). It is also worth paying attention to the frost resistance of the composition, which should not be less than F 50. To ensure better resistance to drops temperature conditions, it is recommended to give preference to compositions with an indicator of F 100.

To obtain a high-quality coating, it is most profitable to make concrete mix on their own.

We make concrete mix for the blind area at home

To organize a concrete pavement around the house, it is not necessary to buy a ready-made mixture and order an expensive delivery with a concrete mixer. Knowing the proportions of the components, you can make concrete M 200 yourself, this will require:

1 part cement (optimal is Portland cement 400);
3 parts sand (better than medium, but fine-grained is also suitable);
4 parts of coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone);
½ part water.

Accordingly, to get 1 cubic meter of concrete, you need to mix:

280 kg of cement;
1100 kg of crushed stone;
800 kg of sand;
190 liters of water.

Also using PC 400, you can get other brands.

Healthy! First of all, cement and water are mixed, and only after the composition has turned out to be homogeneous, sand and gravel are added to it.

In order for the construction of the blind area to be strong and the concreting to be durable, certain rules and requirements are provided.

Design requirements

To fill the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house with concrete, you must familiarize yourself with the regulations and recommendations of SNiP:

The width of the blind area should be 20 cm more than the roof overhang (SNiP 2.02.01-83). If the structure provides for a drain, then its indicators are also taken into account. The optimal value is 1 meter. In this case, you can lay out a tile path around the house.
The length of the do-it-yourself blind area around the house should correspond to the perimeter of the building. However, if you plan to install a concrete porch, then a "gap" is acceptable.
Depth. The level of penetration of the "tape" is half the estimated depth of freezing of the earth.
The thickness of the concrete blind area is also regulated by SNiP and, according to these requirements, should be at least 7-10 cm for the top layer. However, many make concreted parking spaces for private cars along with the blind area. In this case, the operational load increases, and the thickness of the concrete blind area can reach up to 15 cm.

bias. According to SNiP III-10-75, the slope should be from 1 to 10 cm per meter of width. Most often, it is 2-3 cm per meter - this is approximately 2-3 degrees. The angle of inclination must be directed in the direction opposite to the foundation. Increasing the slope is not recommended, as in this case it will be difficult to walk along such a path in winter time when ice forms on the surface.
Border. The device of the blind area at home does not include the mandatory manufacture of a border, therefore, in this case, the decision is made by the owners of suburban real estate. However, experts recommend installing such "limiters" if trees and shrubs with an "aggressive" root system (blackberry, raspberry, plane tree, poplar, and others) grow near the foundation.
Plinth height. For a hard type (concrete) cover, the plinth must be at least 50 cm.
The recommended height of the blind area above ground level is 5 cm or more.

There are also several schemes according to which a blind area from crushed stone can be erected, in the form of a monolithic concrete pavement both for the usual type of soil, and for the "problem".

Knowing the requirements of SNiP and the features of a suburban area, you can make a blind area with your own hands using step by step instructions below.

We make a blind area on our own

The blind area device technology includes several stages that even a beginner in construction work can handle.

Training

In order to start creating a protective coating around the house, prepare:

pick;
twine;
roulette;
tamper;
pegs for marking;
waterproof film (geotextile);
concrete mixture;
formwork boards;
hacksaw;
level;
nails;
reinforcement material, welding machine and wire cutters;
as a rule, trowel, spatula;
sealant for processing seams (it is better to purchase a polyurethane composition).

markup

The arrangement of the blind area around the house begins with the preparation of the area for construction. At this stage, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future "tape", or rather a trench for it, with the help of a peg. There are several recommendations in this regard:

The step between the beacons is 1.5 m.
The depth of the trench will depend on the soil, but the minimum value for this value is 0.15-0.2 meters. If the earth is "heaving", then the depth increases to 0.3 m.

The easiest way to apply markup is to act in the following sequence:

Drive metal or wood pegs into the ground in the corners of the house.
Install intermediate beacons around the perimeter of the building.
Pull the cord or rope, connecting all the pegs.

Healthy! Sealant can be used at this stage to separate the protective coating from the foundation.

After that, the slope of the system is formed, for this a trench is dug, in which the depth of one of its sides will be greater. To compact the resulting ditch, it is enough to use a tree. First, the log must be placed vertically, lifted and sharply lowered down with effort. Due to this, the bottom of the trench will be compacted.

formwork

For formwork, you will need boards on which it is better to immediately mark the height of the future pillow. In the corners, fasten the impromptu “box” with metal corners (bolts on the outside).

Important! If you do not want to remove the formwork, after the concrete blind area is completed, be sure to treat the tree with an antiseptic compound and wrap the boards with roofing material.

Creating a pillow

In order for the concrete pavement to be made according to all the "canons" of construction, it is imperative to prepare a sandy or clay base for it. The thickness of the sand layer can reach up to 20 cm. It is best to lay the pillow in several layers, moistening and carefully tamping each subsequent layer. On the final stage the surface needs to be leveled.

Waterproofing

A waterproofing device involves laying several layers of roofing felt or other geotextile on a pillow.

The material needs to be “wrapped” a little on the walls in order to get an expansion joint.
Roofing material must be overlapped.
A thin layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, and then 10 cm of gravel.
If it is planned to install a drainage system, then it is laid close to the resulting "water seal".

Reinforcement, pouring and drying

Above the level of 3 cm from the layer with crushed stone, it is necessary to lay metal mesh with a step of 0.75 m. After that, you need to mix the concrete and pour it in equal portions into the resulting formwork sections. In this case, the composition to be poured must reach the level of the upper edge of the wooden "box".

Healthy! After pouring, pierce the surface with an iron rod in several places to release excess air.

You can distribute the composition with a trowel or a rule. To increase the resistance of concrete, 2 hours after pouring, ironing is performed. To do this, the surface is covered with a layer of dry PC 400 3-7 mm thick.

Healthy! So that the composition does not crack, it must be moistened with water 1-2 times a day.

In addition to how to properly fill the blind area, you need to make sure that it does not crack during the drying process. To do this, you need to protect the coating from precipitation and the sun with a plastic film. It is believed that the blind area completely dries out in 10-14 days. However, according to the regulations for drying, it is worth taking at least 28 days.

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Concrete blind area is a necessary coating to protect the foundation

However, before pouring the blind area, it is necessary to pay attention to its design features and the requirements for construction objects of this type.

The concrete blind area has a fairly simple design, the preparation of which will require the following materials:

Bedding (pillow). It is performed before pouring the solution. A variety of materials are used as bedding: coarse or medium sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, fine gravel. The blind area of the foundation does not fit on fine sand because of the likelihood of shrinkage, since in this case there is a risk that the base will crack. It is best to prepare a two-layer pillow: first lay gravel or crushed stone, which will compact the soil, and then sand.
Reinforcement. The presence of a reinforcing mesh for a concrete blind area will give the structure more strength. The mesh size of this product is usually 30 x 30 or 50 x 50 cm. The mesh diameter should be about 6-8 mm, but it all depends on the type of soil.
Formwork. Wooden guides located along the perimeter of the coating are required, as they will prevent the concrete mixture from spreading. The width of the formwork boards, as a rule, is 20-25 mm.
Concrete solution. Filling the blind area is carried out using a certain composition of the concrete mixture.

Concrete classes, depending on the strength of the composition

The brand of mortar must be carefully selected, since the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend on its quality and characteristics. For such a coating, Mixture M 200 is usually used, the strength class of which is at least B 15 (a higher grade can also be purchased). It is also worth paying attention to the frost resistance of the composition, which should not be less than F 50. To ensure better resistance to temperature extremes, it is recommended to give preference to compositions with F 100.

To get a high-quality coating, it is most profitable to make a concrete mix on your own.

We make concrete mix for the blind area at home

1 part cement (optimal is Portland cement 400);
3 parts sand (better than medium, but fine-grained is also suitable);
4 parts of coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone);
½ part water.

Self-mixing concrete for the blind area of a country house

Accordingly, to get 1 cubic meter of concrete, you need to mix:

280 kg of cement;
1100 kg of crushed stone;
800 kg of sand;
190 liters of water.

Also using PC 400, you can get other brands.

Concrete grades that can be made from PC 400, sand and crushed stone

Healthy! First of all, cement and water are mixed, and only after the composition has turned out to be homogeneous, sand and gravel are added to it.

In order for the construction of the blind area to be strong and the concreting to be durable, certain rules and requirements are provided.

Design requirements

To fill the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house with concrete, you must familiarize yourself with the regulations and recommendations of SNiP:

The width of the blind area should be 20 cm more than the roof overhang (SNiP 2.02.01-83). If the structure provides for a drain, then its indicators are also taken into account. The optimal value is 1 meter. In this case, you can lay out a tile path around the house.
The length of the do-it-yourself blind area around the house should correspond to the perimeter of the building. However, if you plan to install a concrete porch, then a "gap" is acceptable.
Depth. The level of penetration of the "tape" is half the estimated depth of freezing of the earth.
The thickness of the concrete blind area is also regulated by SNiP and, according to these requirements, should be at least 7-10 cm for the top layer. However, many make concreted parking spaces for private cars along with the blind area. In this case, the operational load increases, and the thickness of the concrete blind area can reach up to 15 cm.

The blind area must be built at a slope of 2-3 degrees

bias. According to SNiP III-10-75, the slope should be from 1 to 10 cm per meter of width. Most often, it is 2-3 cm per meter - this is approximately 2-3 degrees. The angle of inclination must be directed in the direction opposite to the foundation. It is not recommended to increase the slope, as in this case it will be difficult to walk along such a path in winter, when ice forms on the surface.
Border. The device of the blind area at home does not include the mandatory manufacture of a border, therefore, in this case, the decision is made by the owners of suburban real estate. However, experts recommend installing such "limiters" if trees and shrubs with an "aggressive" root system (blackberry, raspberry, plane tree, poplar, and others) grow near the foundation.
Plinth height. For a hard type (concrete) cover, the plinth must be at least 50 cm.
The recommended height of the blind area above ground level is 5 cm or more.

There are also several schemes according to which a crushed stone blind area can be erected, in the form of a monolithic concrete coating, both for the usual type of soil, and for the “problematic” one.

Types of blind area, based on the characteristics of the soil

Knowing the requirements of SNiP and the features of a suburban area, you can make a blind area with your own hands using the step-by-step instructions below.