Do-it-yourself sewerage device in a private house. Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house - basic steps How to build a sewerage system in a private house

Disposal of human waste products is an indispensable condition for organizing comfortable living in private ownership. Therefore, a particularly important stage in the construction of the drainage system is the development of a sewerage scheme in a private house.

Gone are the days when a typical device for a private suburban household was an ordinary country toilet, which is a wooden booth and a cesspool. We suggest you read the article.

At present, the sewerage system in the house is its indispensable attribute.

Types of sewerage systems for a private house

Water in your house or in the country is necessary, there is no point in arguing with this statement. But its excess is even more harmful than its deficiency. An excessively watered area in the economic sense is even more useless than a dehydrated one. Therefore, special systems are created to remove excess moisture:

Drainage sewer system designed to collect and remove liquid from moisture-saturated soil layers.

A storm sewer system that performs the function of collecting rain and melt water, its sewage into special storage tanks and subsequent discharge into storm sewers or into devices for household use during a dry period.

Fecal sewerage, responsible for the collection, treatment and disposal of domestic fecal effluents and human waste products. We suggest that you read the article about.

Any of these devices performs a specific function and has its own design differences in accordance with the purpose.

The nature of the effluents in each system involves the separate collection and sewerage of liquid from each type of these devices.

How to make a sewerage scheme in the house with your own hands

Such a document is a graphical action plan. The sewerage project makes it possible to correctly calculate the need for materials for installation sewer system for your home.

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The basis for drawing up drainage schemes is a building project, which clearly indicates the installation sites of plumbing fixtures and their names, which allows you to choose the right materials.

Factors affecting the composition and arrangement of sewage in the house

To determine the size and placement of the main elements when installing a sewerage system in a private house, it is necessary to determine the level of water consumption. The calculation uses average consumption data.

As a first approximation, you can use the standard in the amount of 100 liters per person. When designing, one should adhere to the basic rule of placing the main outdoor sewerage equipment at a distance of no closer than 4 meters from the boundary of the site and no closer than 10 meters from a residential building.

At the same time, the distance to the nearest water intake (well or well) must be at least 35 meters.

If the neighbors complain about you, then the inspection authorities (sanitary and epidemiological service) will require that the distance is not less than the figure indicated above!

Below is an example project.

The purpose of the plan is to locate the main equipment of the drainage system, determine the cross-section of sewer outlets and select the appropriate fittings for the installation of a gravity drainage network.

Elements of the internal sewer system

These include the following details;

Siphon and drain pipe kitchen sink.
The same device for the washbasin in the bathroom.
There is also a siphon and a drain pipe from the bath, and a ladder with a siphon from the shower.
The drain pipe and the siphon from the bidet are in the toilet. There is also a siphon and a knee for connecting the toilet bowl to the fecal sewer riser.

V two-story house these elements may be repeated on each floor, but may also be absent, then the list should be adjusted accordingly.

All of the listed parts are connected to a horizontal outlet pipe. Since we are talking about a gravity drain system, the outlet channel during installation is installed with a slope of 2-5 millimeters in the direction of the drain and is connected to the riser of the drain system.

The size of the outlet pipe can vary within the nominal bore 32-50 mm. In practice, they usually prefer to get by with one, maximum diameter, which simplifies the selection of fittings. See the diagram below.

All data on the use of plumbing elements are summarized in an axonometric drawing, in accordance with which it is necessary to calculate the need for materials.

When laying sewer pipes in country house all connections must be made at an angle of 135 degrees, for which appropriate fittings are available.

How to make an internal sewerage scheme at home on your own

Such a graphic document provides for the display of all communications in the house, including the spillway scheme. This takes into account the following circumstances:

All plumbing fixtures are installed on the floor along one wall, common to areas such as the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

The kitchen provides for the installation of a sink, dishwasher and washing machine.
These units are connected to a common outlet pipe through siphons, which prevent the penetration of air from the sewer into the room with characteristic odors.
The outlet pipe passes through a hole in the wall into the bathroom, where the following plumbing fixtures can be connected: washbasin, bathtub, washing machine - each device with its own siphon.

The next hole in the wall leads to a toilet where a bidet and toilet can be placed.
All connections are made to a branch pipe with a diameter of 40-50 millimeters using tees at an angle of 135 degrees. Connections must be made "in the socket", equipped with a sealing cuff for tightness.

The system for collecting and removing wastewater is non-pressure, therefore, a drainage sewer line. This rule must be observed very scrupulously.

If the slope is insufficient, the flow of water will be difficult or impossible, and exceeding the parameter will lead to accelerated draining. As a result, the water will drain, and some of the contaminants will remain in the pipe, creating the prerequisites for future blockage.

The second significant node internal sewerage in a private house there is a riser that receives drain water from the outlet pipe. There may be several such withdrawals.

For this reason, the diameter of the riser pipe is selected in the range of 100-150 millimeters. The riser is necessarily equipped with an audit to monitor its condition and ensure the possibility of cleaning.

But functionally, this element of the system performs another important task - its continuation provides ventilation in the sewer system.

Another revision is installed at the upper end of the riser in the house, to which the base is attached fan pipe. It is removed through the ceiling and roofing. The upper end must be at least half a meter above the roof ridge for reliable removal unpleasant odors sewerage.

In addition, when the riser pipe is completely filled with drain water, the siphon may break.

A vacuum is created in the filled pipe of the riser, as a result of which the water locks in the siphons are sucked into the riser. Air, by no means flavored, penetrates through empty water seals into the living space of the house. The result is obvious.

Such an unsightly situation is completely resolved by installing a fan pipe through which air enters the system, equalizing the pressure.

The fan pipe must be protected by a head from clogging with debris and leaves. They are most often made in the form of a deflector that creates an upward flow of air for ventilation.

Thus, the riser plays a crucial role in the overall drainage system and all the features of its device must be taken into account when designing a sewer.

Features of the sewerage device in a two-story private house

The device of the upper floor in a country house also provides for the use of a drain system. There are fewer drain points on it, usually a shower and a toilet.

To save money, the second floor sewer wiring is carried out in parallel with a similar network on the first floor. This simplifies the design and installation of the system, since there is no need to install a second riser - the drain will be connected to the existing one.

Elements of the external sewer system

The external wastewater treatment and disposal system consists of a number of units, the action of which is aimed at the disinfection of wastewater.

The main ones are:

Filter wells or septic tanks. The first are the easiest to manufacture and operate. They are a pit in the ground up to three meters deep. The transverse size can reach two meters, regardless of its shape. The walls of the pit are reinforced with concrete or brickwork. They can be solid or perforated with holes of 40-60 millimeters. At the bottom of the well, a filter up to 80 centimeters thick is arranged.

For it, you can use slag, gravel, broken bricks. The latter is laid in the upper layer of broken bricks, the size of the fraction is about 50 millimeters. For a gravel filter, material from 15 millimeters is used.

Septic tanks. The container is divided by one or more partitions.

The drained liquid fills the first chamber. A protective plate must be installed at the place where the liquid jet falls, which will not allow it to wash away the silt layer. A cartridge with a bacterial culture should be placed in the chamber, which will become the basis of the aerobic filter.

In it, the biological mass decomposes pollution. Water overflows through the upper edge of the partition and enters the second chamber, where an aerator is installed and the water is blown with atomized air. In this case, the pollution is oxidized and further processed, this time by anaerobic bacteria in the presence of oxygen.

When using a septic tank, the degree of wastewater treatment reaches 75 - 90%, which indicates the need for additional post-treatment for complete disinfection.

Soil field filtration
Sewerage projects are carried out individually, depending on the actual conditions.

This method is used for post-treatment of wastewater as it passes through the soil. From the septic tank, the liquid enters the drainage pipe system, passing through a gravel pack and a double layer of geotextile.

At the same time, all fine particles are retained in them, and the degree of purification reaches 98%.

The limitation for the use of such a technique for additional wastewater treatment is the characteristics of soils. Fields are ineffective on soils with low permeability - dense loams and clays. Sandy gravel and sandy soils are most favorable, allowing high-quality filtration of wastewater.

Infiltrators. On impermeable soils, infiltrates are established. These are box-shaped products made of plastic with side bars, closed at the top and open at the bottom. Depending on the volume of processing, up to 3-4 devices can be installed in series.

Any of the described objects can be used both together and in the configuration selected by the buyer. The objects are connected by laying plastic pipes with a diameter of 100-150 millimeters, less often - for large objects - pipes of 200 millimeters are used.

In addition, each external sewage facility is equipped with ventilation system, inside the building, fan pipes are used for this purpose.

The use of septic tanks is most popular in areas with insufficient rainfall, while the purified liquid is actively used for reuse for household needs.

Design of external sewerage

These two components of a single task are completely opposite. If the internal sewerage scheme is designed to collect wastewater, then the external one is for their disinfection and disposal.

Therefore, the rules for its construction have only one similarity with internal requirements - the slope from the foundation of the house towards the drive should be 1-2 millimeters per meter for the same reasons (see above).

The tasks solved by external sewerage are the processing Wastewater for their disinfection. The water discharged into the ground after treatment must be absolutely safe, because, after the final treatment by ground filtration, it is returned to the consumer.

Since the object passes into the external environment, it is necessary to take into account the depth of soil freezing. The pipe must be below this level.

But, even if this condition is met, it is advisable to insulate the sewer pipe in case of emergency climatic circumstances, which have recently been happening with enviable regularity.

And to guarantee the integrity of the pipeline, with a critical drop in temperature.

Factors Influencing Circuit Design

They can be both objective, caused by specific conditions, and subjective, arising from the appropriate attitude of the designer.

The first include the already mentioned depth of soil freezing, which affects the depth of the pipe of the outer part of the sewer.

Also, objective reasons explain the choice of a method for filtering the liquid purified by septic tanks. When constructing sewerage on clay soils with low water permeability, a method using infiltrates is forced to be chosen.

The factors of the first group include the absence of a special closed shaft for placing a fan pipe. We have already seen the need for it. In such a situation, it is installed with an output through the wall in the wall-mounted version, the fastening is made to the wall using brackets.

If the installation of a fan pipe in this embodiment is also undesirable, you can use an air valve to relieve pressure in the sewer drain.

Types of sewerage facilities and their functioning

For disinfection and purification of wastewater sewered in a private house, several methods are used:

Accumulation of liquid in a special container. Here, the primary separation of the drain into solid liquid fractions takes place. It uses chemical and biological preparations that contribute to the liquefaction of the mass and its partial processing by active bacteria. Culture can be purchased at specialized stores or at the construction market.

The given cleaning scheme is used in industrial conditions, but most operations in one form or another are also carried out on home cleaning devices.

INFO HELP!!! So, in the storage tank, chemical and bacteriological treatment of wastewater is carried out. Further purification takes place in the filter well. The filter in this case consists of gravel and sand. Good results are obtained by using granulated slag and broken bricks, which are good adsorbents.

The body of the well was made of a concrete ring with a diameter of up to 2.5 meters and a height of up to 2. A neck was installed in the upper part in such a way that only a metal cover remained at ground level.

A filter mass is poured around the ring. The manufacture of the hull with brickwork is also practiced.

A further development of filtering devices is the manufacture of septic tanks with several chambers designed for various purposes.

The first tank serves for the accumulation of wastewater, primary separation into fractions, chemical and biological treatment, aeration. Atomized air treatment is carried out to further oxidize the decomposition products contained in the effluent.

To do this, a compressor operating in continuous mode is built into the cleaning system.

In the last section of the treatment plant, a filtering well is installed, in which wastewater is additionally treated.

The design of an autonomous cleaning system can various options different, but the principle of operation remains the same. The degree of wastewater treatment in modern septic tanks reaches 98%, which is very high rate.

However, the most modern device needs periodic pumping and sludge removal.

Laying depth and angle of inclination of pipes to the tank

How deep it is necessary to place the elements of the outer part of the sewer depends on the climatic features of the construction region. One thing is obvious - the most dangerous for the pipeline is its freezing, especially if it is made of metallic materials.

Behind this phenomenon is most often its destruction. But the most unpleasant thing is that before the onset of warmth, you can forget about the operation of the sewer. Only after the system can be excavated is it time to spend money on repairing and restoring the system.

Piping and piping

As a result of the accumulated experience, certain rules have been formed for the installation of internal and external pipelines when laying sewers. They look like this:

Regardless of the place and method of its placement, the type of pipes and other conditions, it is mandatory to observe a slope towards the drain when laying. In this case, one should be guided by the requirements of SNiPs, since a certain slope is required for each pipe size. Violation of the rules in its magnitude leads, as a rule, to the formation of blockage.
The distances between sewerage objects should be optimal in length, if they exceed 4-5 meters, a revision tie-in is necessary. A revision well must be installed on 10-meter sections.
When laying sewerage in a country house (underground installation), the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85 and 2.04.01-85 must be followed in terms of observing the distances between separate objects sewer network.
In Russian conditions, an important factor is the location of the pipeline below the zero freezing point of the soil. To ensure this factor, the trench must be deep enough, but you can go along the path of sewer insulation, up to the use of heating cables during installation.
Laying of sewer pipes is carried out only on a pillow of sand and it also covers the top. This stage is very important for their integrity.

When using plastic pipes, care must be taken to compact the sand layer. The best results are given by plentiful shedding of shelter water. In this case, the most high-quality compaction occurs, after which it is possible to backfill with soil.
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Proper autonomous sewerage of a country house can work for a long time, subject to high-quality laying and proper maintenance.

Sewer pipe insulation

This event allows you to avoid bulk earthworks when laying communications in regions with a harsh climate and protect shallow pipes from freezing. For this, various insulating materials are used:

glass wool;
mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene, and many others.

For a full guarantee, you can also install a heating cable with a switch-on sensor in case of a critical drop in temperature. The costs incurred will eliminate the need repair work and related costs. A sewer line arranged in this way does not need to be laid deep.

Above, we have already considered the requirements for the angle of inclination of gravity sewer pipes for an internal system. They are also valid for its outer part: 1-2 millimeters per meter of the length of the wiring.

Calculator for calculating the volume of storage capacity

A septic tank is a purification device that must contain and process the necessary volumes of domestic wastewater. First of all, it must be taken into account that the septic tank, in accordance with sanitary requirements, should be enough for at least a three-day cycle of clarification / wastewater treatment.

Simply put, the minimum volume of the treatment plant chambers corresponds to the total three-day water consumption by all residents of a private house. There must also be a certain operational reserve in case of replenishment in the family, that is, an increase in the number of consumers.

Determining one person's actual daily water consumption is not a simple matter; so, according to SNiP, this is 200 liters; this indicator is now considered obsolete due to widespread use various kinds household appliances using water.

For example, it is considered that:

taking a shower for 7 minutes will require 70 liters;
using a bidet for 5 minutes - 40 liters;
a single bath or jacuzzi - about 110 liters;
for one work cycle dishwasher 15 liters are consumed;
1 toilet flush consumes up to 9 liters of water.

In view of the foregoing, in this calculator you are invited to choose and enter in the parameters for calculating the daily water consumption of one person from the range of 260-370 liters; this is the average range of recommendations.

SNiP 2.04.03-85, depending on the flow of wastewater, distinguishes:

single-chamber types - with a wastewater flow rate of up to 1 m3 / day;
two-chamber - up to 10 m3 / day;
three-chamber - over 10 m3 / day; therefore, the above diagram is not mandatory, but only serves to demonstrate one of the options septic devices.

For small farms, reinforced concrete rings are most often used as anaerobic containers made of concrete. Reinforced concrete sewer structures are distinguished by their reliability, almost unlimited service life. The problem that accompanied them earlier - insufficient tightness, is now being solved by modern means of waterproofing. MDS 40-2.200 recommends that the bottoms of the tanks be located at least 3 meters from the surface, which limits the number of rings in one section (chamber) of the septic tank.

The active volume of a septic tank (Vak) is defined as the product of the daily water consumption by one consumer (Q liters), the number of consumers (K) and the number of days (D) of clarification (sludge) of wastewater: Vak \u003d Q * K * D. According to the recommendation of SNiP 2.04.03 -85, with annual discharge of sediments, the minimum D is taken: 3, if the flow of effluents is up to 5 m3 / day or 5, if the flow is more than 5 m3 / day. In addition, if you plan to clean the tank less than 2 times a year, then you should increase Vak by 20 percent for sediment.

When determining the height of the chambers (for example, from concrete rings), it should also be taken into account that, according to clause 3.35, MDS 40-2.200, the height of the air volume above the liquid level cannot be less than 500 mm.

The capacity of the septic tank must ensure the maintenance of the daily volume of effluents. The amount of canalized liquid directly depends on the number of people living in a private house. As a first approximation, it is considered that one person consumes up to 200 liters per day.

The directions of these expenses are quite traditional and are associated with household and sanitary and hygienic consumption. Thus, a family of 4 people consumes about a cubic meter of liquid per day.

You can determine this indicator more precisely using the built-in online calculator.

Septic tank and cesspool

The most important device in the outer part of the sewer is a septic tank or other device for filtering drains. The installation of a concrete or brick structure is not associated with any features.

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But now popular devices of high degree of readiness made of plastic need additional attention. In areas where there are high levels of groundwater of a seasonal nature, the container may float.

In sealed latrines, the contents are preserved for the entire time between pumpings. With a large family, such operations are performed quite often, because each person produces about 100 liters of wastewater per day.

The cesspool is located in a place convenient for the access of a sewage truck, no more than 6 meters from the border of the site.

The danger of cesspools lies in insufficient wastewater treatment. If in hermetic devices this issue is not considered at all, then in filtration systems the degree of purification is about 75%, which is clearly not enough and pollution gradually accumulates in soils.

Filter wells

Do-it-yourself installation of the sewerage of a private house is possible in other ways. So, the outer part is made in the form of filter wells. This becomes possible on marl or sandy soils with high permeability.

The composition of the filter in this case is heterogeneous:

in the lower part, a layer of blast-furnace slag up to half a meter thick is poured;
then comes a layer of gravel with a fraction of 15 millimeters;
the top layer should be correctly poured from broken bricks, which exhibit strong adsorbing characteristics.

On the upper layers of such a filter, large components of the filtrate are deposited, then smaller ones. Filter wells are effective if biological wastewater treatment is used. Aerobic bacteria gradually develop in the filter, capable of processing organic matter contained in wastewater.

It is possible and often used to dispose of the filtered liquid through drainage ditches into the nearest body of water. Wastewater in the drainage channel undergoes additional purification, passing through a gravel-sand filter.

The degree of purification in the filter well, depending on the throughput characteristics of the soil, can reach 90-95%.

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In general, the filter well is a transition stage from cesspool to the septic. If you add another compartment with an aeration unit to the tank, you can get a full-fledged septic tank. Atomized air actively oxidizes the wastewater biomass, forming another silt bactericidal layer, in this case it is represented by anaerobic bacteria.

Calculation of the volume of filtering facilities for sewerage at home

It should be understood the responsibility of the residents of the house for the ecological state of the place of residence. And in many respects it depends on the purity of groundwater. Therefore, a number of documents regulating water consumption and water treatment have been developed:

Building codes and regulations 2.04.03.85 regulating the external sewerage of private houses, as well as the arrangement of sanitary protection zones for small protective structures;
SNiP 2.04.01.85 for internal networks and water supply in terms of determining the volume of effluents;
manual on the procedure for designing engineering support systems MDS 40.2.200, which provides calculations for calculating the volume of effluents in private housing construction.

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The calculation of the volume of a septic tank can be performed both for a single-chamber scheme and a multi-chamber one. With a consumption volume per day of the order of one cubic meter, one chamber is enough for a complete biocenosis of the contents of the septic tank.

With more drains, two or more containers should be used, which are installed in series. Septic tanks from two or more chambers are divided equally, but it is possible to use devices in which the first chamber occupies up to 75% of the volume. Important - it is forbidden to make cesspools according to sanitary standards!

The main value in the development of a septic tank project for a country house is its working volume, which can be calculated using the following algorithm:

as the displacement of daily volumes of incoming wastewater, multiplied by the time of their anaerobic processing in days;
as the total amount of liquid in all compartments of the septic tank;
the distance from the bottom of the tank to the lower cut of the spout pipe is taken into account;
from the volume, you need to subtract the height of the sediment layer, which can be up to 20% of the depth of the tank, if cleaning is carried out in accordance with the rules - 2 times a year, this indicator can be ignored.

When making a calculation with your own hands, your own treatment device with final cleaning by filtration through the soil, it should be noted that this is realistic with a fluid flow rate of 3-5 cubic meters per day.

If it is higher, SBR reactors should be used or a combination design should be used with both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria treatment, not excluding the use of aeration.

The use of biochemical materials for wastewater treatment increases the degree of wastewater treatment and accelerates their processing tenfold.

The use of biochemical treatment of wastewater makes it possible to purify them to a degree of 98%, so such water can be used for watering a garden and at the same time receive an increase in yield. To fertilize the soil

use sludge.

The principles of the sewer pipeline

The main difference between drain systems and other pipelines is the following features:

Gravity when working under atmospheric pressure. The fluid flows through the tubular products under the influence of gravity along a predetermined slope.
The flow rate is set by the angle of inclination of the pipeline towards the outflow. Moreover, its value should be strictly within 1-2 millimeters per meter. The reasons have already been mentioned above.
Tightness. For a gravity pipeline, it is provided by a socket connection of the elements using a rubber cuff for sealing.

When installing the sewer system, it is not allowed to connect pipes with a misalignment from a common axis. Otherwise, a gap is formed between the wall of the part and the cuff with leakage of the transported liquid.

Which pipe products to choose at home

Effluent disposal systems use pipelines made of various materials:

Ceramic. Such material is very durable, it is not subject to any effects of aggressive environments. The disadvantages include complex installation and heavy logistics.

For many decades, cast iron sewer pipes have been market leaders. This material is almost ideal for this application. The material of manufacture is resistant to corrosion in most environments and has sufficiently high strength characteristics. The accuracy of the socket connection is ensured by the production method - casting. In addition, the use of cast iron pipes allows the use of caulking during their installation to improve the tightness of the connection.

To facilitate the installation of cast iron pipelines, a wide range of fittings is produced.

Asbestos pipes. Some positive characteristics of asbestos pipes do not negate the main negative point - such materials are prohibited for use in housing construction.
Plastic sewer pipes today have practically replaced all other types. Simple delivery and unloading, manufacturability of the material during installation and durability have led to the fact that they have become the main materials for those who decide to make a sewer with their own hands. The main method of assembling pipelines is in a socket. For internal systems, the main dimensions are:
- For taps from plumbing fixtures - diameters of 40 or 50 millimeters;
- For a riser and a fan pipe - size 100 or 110 mm;
- For the outlet pipe from the house to the septic tank 100, 110 or 150.

Conducting a pipeline from the house to the tank

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Therefore, a rule has been established that determines the installation of a storage tank at a distance of at least 10 meters from a residential building. However, there are sources that regulate this value of 5 meters.

It should be understood that this is an accidental discrepancy, but it is better to stick to the first installation option. In this case, it will be impossible to file a claim. But, strictly speaking, correct installation capacity depends on the throughput and filtering capacity of soils in the area.

It is mandatory to comply with the slope in the parameters mentioned above.

To lay a sewer outlet pipe, you will need to dig a trench of the required depth, determined by the level of soil freezing. Imagine the labor costs associated with the fulfillment of this requirement, because you also need to provide for the thickness of the drainage layer. If in the Moscow region the soil freezes up to 1.8 meters, then the depth of the trench will be more than 2.2. Therefore, many prefer shallow ditches, insulating pipes with a protective jacket and heating cable.

The order of work is as follows:

The route is marked with a mark with pegs or a cord.
Excavation to a connection depth of about 60 centimeters.
Drainage backfill - at the bottom of about 20 centimeters of gravel and 10 centimeters of sand.
Spilling drainage with water to seal.
The marking of the slope is made using a cord and a building level. The upper end at the exit from the building should be 20 centimeters higher than the opposite end at a ten-meter distance.
Pipes are laid section by section to a depth according to the laying scheme, the position is regulated by bricks placed under them and sanding.
The heating cable is installed, fixed with adhesive tape.
In the process of laying a heat-insulating casing is put on the pipe.
The pipe with cable and insulation is covered with sand, then with previously excavated soil.

The use of plastic pipes for the external drainage system will ensure their integrity during seasonal soil movements, since they are elastic enough to withstand such loads. The sewerage device in your house made of this material ensures its performance for up to 50 years.

Do-it-yourself installation cost

Payment for the services of invited specialists costs a lot of money. But if we analyze the installation technology according to the wiring diagram of the sewer system, it becomes obvious that there is nothing in it that could not be done correctly.

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How to improve efficiency

The uninterrupted operation of the drain system is primarily ensured quality installation.

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The only thing that can be advised to the user is to install a waste chopper under the sink in addition to the sewerage scheme, it will not be difficult to do it correctly. This action will largely protect the system from the formation of blockages.

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If desired, even private house in rural areas can be equipped. The first thing a country dweller faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. It's not a luxury, it's a necessity. Laying sewerage in a private house is a complex process that requires taking into account every little thing. How to do it?

External and internal

Work related to the arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a fan pipe, a riser, as well as piping to all rooms where it is required is required: kitchen, toilet, bathroom and so on. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires piping to a septic tank. You can also connect the sewer to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly facilitated if it is possible to discharge wastewater into a centralized system. If the house is located on an isolated site, then a system with a homemade septic tank should be created. It can be with or cumulative. The cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Laying scheme in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, all the features of the house and the location of the premises should be taken into account. The finished version can look like anything.

When designing sewerage inside the house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only after that it is possible to determine where the rest of the system will be laid.

How to draw the right diagram

The sewerage scheme in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how well the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the plan of the house. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
Then it is worth deciding on the location of the riser or the collector pipe.
At all levels of the building, the location of plumbing should be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
From plumbing, it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, branches and corners should be taken into account.
It is necessary to measure the length of each element of the internal system and summarize the data. The result is the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is the drawing up of a diagram of the external system: the release of pipes, their laying to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What to consider when arranging an internal system

The laying of internal sewerage in a private house begins after drawing up an approximate scheme. At this stage, there are several things to consider:

To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45 °. This reduces the risk of blockages in the process of using the sewer.
It is best to use polypropylene for arranging sewage inside the house, or such material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying sewers in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Laying sewerage in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and carrying out the necessary calculations, the purchase of materials is required. For wiring inside the house, gray pipes are used. For the arrangement of the external system, pipes of an orange tint are required. You can explain the difference in color based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, it concerns the material. Pipes located underground must withstand more serious loads. The material for their manufacture should be more rigid.

In order for the laying of sewerage in a private house to be successful with your own hands, you can use two-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. Much cheaper and no less effective is the use of orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used to equip an external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater disposal.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Laying a sewer in a private house with your own hands requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, you will need an assistant to work. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve the quality.

The easiest option for laying sewerage is the use of PVC or PP pipes. A fairly wide range of such products is produced. If necessary, you can purchase material of the desired diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It is worth noting that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - cuff. Thanks to this element, laying the sewerage of a private house takes a little time. Joints are connected easily and at the same time reliably. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. For this, a silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable.

What to Consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

If the pipes run through walls or ceilings, then they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on system fragments.
The slope of the elements of the sewer system depends on their diameter and is prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material with a diameter of 5 centimeters, this indicator should be 3 cm / m, and with a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm / m.

Arrangement of sewer outlet

If a problem has arisen and the internal system has a mismatch with the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the release. This is the boundary zone between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to the pipe leading to the wastewater collection tank.

It is necessary to mount the outlet through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be below the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, in winter, difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewer. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. From each edge, the sleeve must cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for the release of sewage.

Installation of the riser and further wiring

The size of the pipe from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to mount the riser in the toilet itself. Installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. To do this, use suspension brackets and clamps. You can also mount the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and other fragments of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They allow you to refuse the use of sealant. In those places where there is an intersection of elements coming from a shower, sink or bath, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be from 10 to 11 centimeters. Do not forget about water seals. These elements do not allow unpleasant odors to penetrate into the living room.

On each floor, a revision is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clean the system in case of severe blockage.

What is a fan pipe

By observing the rules for laying sewers in a private house, you can easily create an external and internal system. In addition to installing a riser, a fan pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. A revision is mounted at the junction. After that, the fan pipe is brought to the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the ventilation system of the building or to the chimney.

Types of septic tanks

Laying an external sewage system in a private house is no less important than installing an internal system. With improper arrangement, problems can arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn the sewer into a big smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with a septic device. The most commonly used facilities are settling type. This is a container or a combination of them through which drains pass. Gradually they clear up. This occurs due to the deposition of heavy inclusions. After the drains pass additional purification in the filtration well or in the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - storage. In this case, a closed container of a sufficiently large volume is installed. All drains are collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out This method arrangement of the external system is easier to implement. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not so difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. The average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in the house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the tank for the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of an outdoor system

Sewerage in a private house does not end after complete installation internal system. After all, the arrangement of the outer part is required. Stages of arranging an external system:

First you need to prepare the materials: a finished container of the required volume made of PP or reinforced concrete rings. If desired, you can lay out of brick or pour a monolith.
The next step is to determine the appropriate wastewater treatment method.
After earthworks are carried out: a pit is dug under the tank and trenches for laying pipes.
All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about the comfortable maintenance of the septic tank.
Pipes should be mounted at a certain slope. This indicator should be 2 cm / m. Joints must be sealed.
The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
After carrying out work on thermal and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, it is possible to fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of buildings on personal plot. Do not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how the sewerage of a private house is carried out. If you follow all the rules, you will receive reliable system. Before starting the operation of the sewer, it is necessary to carry out its run. To do this, the system must be flushed clean water. This will identify any shortcomings and correct them. Only then can the operation of the sewer system be started.

In fact, the process of editing individual fragments is not difficult. The main thing is not to make mistakes when drawing up a sewerage scheme, as well as to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

Living in a private house, I want to create in it for my family maximum comfort, providing a high standard of living, so it is very important to think in advance about such important issue like a sewer. Sewerage in a private house can be done by hand. This article will help you do all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.

With the independent construction of the sewer system in a private house, you can save a lot, but it is very important to carry out all the work correctly, in accordance with all the requirements that apply to construction and installation work of this kind.

The choice of a sewer system scheme should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for a compact placement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, bathrooms, etc.). But most the best option there will be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector), through which sewage will be drained into a cesspool or septic tank.

Experts advise, in the presence of a large house, which provides for several different rooms with drainage and water supply, located in different parts of the building, to give preference to such a scheme of the sewer system, in which there will be at least two (and sometimes more) cesspools or septic tanks. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and bathrooms, toilets and kitchens are located on different floors, then in this case you will need to install risers.

Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a private house with their own hands is reduced to the arrangement of external and internal sewage. Internal sewerage works include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and pipe routing to such premises as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. External or external sewerage includes everything that is located outside the house, that is, a system of pipes going from home to a deep cleaning station (a rather expensive turnkey solution) or to a home-made septic tank (with a filtration field or storage). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. But this article will focus on autonomous system, including effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and such a primitive method as a cesspool.

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the internal circuit. Even at the stage, it is necessary to think about the fact that all the premises to which the sewage system will be connected are located as close as possible to each other, since subsequently such an approach will greatly simplify the scheme for arranging the internal sewage system. Each house assumes an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very diverse.

In this case, one should take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm should be used in the toilet to drain wastewater. For gray drains that will enter the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, PP or PVC pipes s having a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of blockage, which is quite problematic to eliminate. It is more reliable and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewerage scheme, as they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron pipes. And besides this, it is much easier to install an internal sewerage system using such pipes.

First of all, it is necessary to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then deal with further wiring from it.

But before that, you should more accurately understand how you can independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, because in the future, according to this scheme, it will be possible to make a complete calculation of all that (plumbing equipment and materials) that you need to equip the sewer system.

You can perform a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is advisable to purchase several sheets of graph paper for this task. In addition, you will need a tape measure, ruler and a sharp pencil.

For a private house, the sewerage scheme is drawn up in the following sequence:

First you need to draw to scale. If the dimensions of the house are unknown to you, then you will have to walk with a tape measure and measure everything;
then you need to decide where the risers will be located;
after that, it is necessary to mark the locations of plumbing fixtures on the plan and decide how they will be connected;
at the next stage, it is necessary to note the pipes that will go from the fittings and the riser to the plumbing fixtures, as well as all the connecting elements (tees, bends, and others);
all of the above should be done for each floor of your house;
then it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
now it remains only to sum up the length of all pipes related to the internal sewerage;
the next step will be the external system, on which you need to draw up an external sewerage scheme, which includes pipes going from a deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet. Do not forget to take into account all available and SNiPs.

Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, the pipes for these two sewage schemes are used differently. Currently, for laying pipes of internal sewerage, PP and PVC pipes are most often used, which have a characteristic grey colour. For sunbeds and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewage, and other solutions must be used for external ones.

Most often, the pipes that are laid underground from the deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet are painted Orange color, which is explained very simply - a bright orange color is more noticeable in the earth, compared to the rest. But pipes for external sewerage differ from the rest not only in color - they have completely different requirements. Such pipes have greater rigidity, since they will have to withstand a significant load while underground. There are also more durable structures, an example of which can be two-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes, when constructing a sewerage system for a private house, is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, this should be enough to drain wastewater from the house.

Cast iron

Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.

Flaws: expensive, heavy and fragile, roughness can form on the inside due to corrosion, this can cause blockage.

Polypropylene

Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them most in demand for internal sewage. They can easily withstand the high temperature of wastewater.

Flaws: if used as intended, there are no drawbacks.

PVC

Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often used for outdoor sewage.

Flaws: the high temperature of wastewater is poorly tolerated, brittle (they do not bend, but crack).

Pipe laying

Probably the most time-consuming process in the construction of a private house with your own hands is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you decide to do this work yourself, then be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended that you first check the tightness of the system by flushing it with clean water, and only then, after making sure that all the seams are reliable, you can begin full operation.

It has already been said before that the most simple option will use PP or PVC pipes for sewerage. At present, the construction market has a large number of offers of this product, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes, which are securely and easily connected at the docking points due to the presence of rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

You also need to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a non-pressure system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per meter. Do not forget about this, since you will need to place various points of the pipeline on different height to provide the required slope.

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewage systems, it is necessary to start installing the sewerage system in the house from the outlet. The outlet is the boundary part of the sewerage system that connects the pipe leading to the septic tank with the pipe that exits the house (riser).

The outlet must be mounted through the foundation at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil, which corresponds to your region. You can install a higher outlet, but for this you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in the winter. If this is not done, then it is likely that you will be able to use the toilet only in the spring, after warming.

If this was not taken care of, then you will need to punch a hole in the foundation into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can fit. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe, the diameter of which is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.

Summarizing the above, we can say that at this stage you need to make a hole in the foundation (if it is not there) and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Do not forget that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. And the sleeve is needed in order to set the required slope of the pipe towards the septic tank (2 cm per meter).

It is best to place the riser in the toilet, as the recommended size of the pipe that goes from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how the pipes will be mounted - in special boxes, walls, channels and niches, or next to walls (fastening with hangers, clamps, etc.).

In order to connect the sewer pipes to the riser, oblique tees should be used, and adapters should be used at the joints of pipes that are different in diameter. Where pipes from sinks, bath and shower intersect, it is necessary to install a collector pipe having a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also, do not forget about water seals, which will help protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

It is imperative to mount a special tee (revision) on each riser with which it will be possible, if necessary, to clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, it is necessary to mount a cleaning after each turn.

The output and installation of the fan pipe is given a very important role, since the fan pipe is needed for:

maintaining atmospheric pressure inside the system so that water hammer and air discharge do not occur;
increasing the durability of the sewer system;
ventilation of the entire sewage system, which in turn is necessary for the efficient operation of the septic tank.

A fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is brought to. Before connecting the fan pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install a revision. After that, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle to the attic.

It is not recommended to simplify the work by combining the fan pipe (sewer ventilation) with the chimney or ventilation of the house. Moreover, it is necessary to locate the outlet of the fan pipe away from windows and balconies, at a distance of at least 4 meters. The height of the indentation from the roof should not be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, a chimney and ventilation of the house at different levels.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say the following:

at the first stage, you should start drawing up a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing, if possible, the distance from plumbing fixtures to the riser;
it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes that go to the riser, in the course of connecting additional devices. Do not allow a reduction in diameter;
gotta stick to simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser. The toilet should be located closest to the riser;
when wiring in a private sewer house, it should be excluded sharp corners, and pipes must be laid with a certain slope;
those where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision in advance;
for ventilation of the system, a fan pipe must be present in the wiring diagram.

You can equip a sewer in a private house with your own hands different ways, which will be discussed next. It is very important to choose the right system that will meet all your needs.

It is necessary to choose a scheme for arranging a sewerage system, taking into account some parameters:

temporary or permanent residence in the House;
the number of people living in the house permanently;
how much water each person consumes daily (depending on the availability of a washing machine, washbasin, sink, toilet, shower, bath, etc.);
at what level do groundwater occur;
how big is your site and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
what type and structure of the soil;
climatic conditions.

For more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.

All sewer systems for a private house can be conditionally divided into two types:

storage systems (sealed wastewater tank, cesspool without a bottom);
facilities designed for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with two or three chambers and a filtration field, a septic tank with two overflowing wells and natural treatment, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).

The cesspool is the most ancient and proven method of arranging sewers for many centuries. This method had no alternative 50-70 years ago. True, in those days people did not use as much water in a private house as they do now.

In fact, a cesspool is a well that does not have a bottom. In a cesspool, walls can be made of concrete, concrete rings, bricks or other material, and soil can be left as the bottom. After sewage from the house enters the pit, relatively clean water will seep into the soil, while solid organic waste and fecal matter will accumulate, settling to the bottom. When over time the well is completely filled with solid waste, it will need to be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was full, they buried it, and another one was dug out in another place.

It should be noted that it is possible to arrange sewage in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of average daily drains does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case, soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter will be able to process the water that will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And in the event that the volume of runoff exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will lead to pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, then due to this, it will slightly decrease bad smell, which comes from it, and the process of water purification will also be accelerated. But it's still not worth the risk.

Conclusion. It is worth building a cesspool that does not have a bottom only when they do not live in the house permanently, but visit several times a week without spending a lot of water. Also, you should pay attention to the fact that groundwater must lie at least one meter below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to avoid contamination of water sources and soil. The cesspool has the lowest cost, but even despite this, it is currently not popular in cottages and modern country houses.

In this case, it is necessary to install a sealed container near the house, into which wastewater will flow from the entire house through pipes. You can purchase a ready-made container in the store, which can be made of metal, plastic or other material. But if you wish, you can make such a container with your own hands from concrete rings. The lid can be made of metal, and the bottom can be made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of this type of sewage system is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, pragma corrugated pipes can be used.

Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely full, for which you will have to call a sewage truck, which will cost you from 15 to 30 USD. The required volume of the container and the frequency of its emptying depends on the volume of wastewater. For example, if four people live in the house on a permanent basis, who use washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bath, then the storage tank must have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Conclusion. If the groundwater in your area is quite high, then as an option for arranging the sewerage system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible pollution. But the disadvantage of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be placed so that there is a convenient access to it. The bottom of the tank or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. The lid of the storage tank must be insulated so that the pipeline is protected from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. Using used Eurocubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive is brick or concrete pouring. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.

The easiest option for soil cleaning is a single-chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is not very different from an ordinary cesspool, and sometimes it is called that. This structure is essentially a well, in which the bottom is covered with a small layer of rubble (at least 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is covered with the same layer on top of the rubble. In this case, wastewater from the house enters the well through pipes, where the water then seeps through sand, gravel and soil, while being cleaned by 50%. Of course, crushed stone and sand significantly improve the quality of water treatment, but this does not fundamentally solve the problem.

Conclusion. It is not recommended to build a sewerage system in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or with large volume Wastewater. This option can only be used with low level groundwater and temporary residence. It will also be necessary to periodically change the crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.

The construction of filter wells and overflow settling wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewerage in a private house, moreover, this option is quite economical and can be mounted independently.

This sewer system consists of two wells: the first well has an airtight bottom, and the second one has no bottom, but is sprinkled with rubble and sand.

From the house, sewage enters the first well, in which feces and solid waste sink to the bottom, and greasy ones float to the surface. Between these two layers, relatively clarified water is formed. The first well is connected to the second by about 2/3 of its height by an overflow pipe, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to flow there unhindered. Slightly clarified water enters the second well, which then seeps through sand, gravel and soil, clearing even more.

The first well serves as a sump, and the second as a filter well. From time to time, the first well fills up with faeces and you will need to call a sewage truck to clean it. This should be done about once every six months. In order to reduce the amount of unpleasant odors, it is necessary to add microorganisms that decompose feces into the first well.

The two-chamber described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, in which additional cleaning will be carried out with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is worth installing a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site will be sandy or sandy soil then this would be ideal. But remember that after about five years, the sand and gravel in the second well will need to be replaced.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, which is divided into several separate tanks connected by pipes, or into 2-3 sections. Usually, if you want to install this type of sewer system in your home, a ready-made version is purchased.

The first capacity of the septic tank is designed to settle wastewater, as is the case in a conventional settling well. Further, the partially clarified water goes through the pipe to the second section or container, where all available organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After that, more clarified water follows to the filtration fields.

The filtration field is a rather extensive (about 30 sq.m) underground area, where wastewater is treated by soil. In this case, the water is purified by about 80% due to the large area. If the soil in your area is sandy or sandy, then this will be an ideal option, otherwise you will need to build an artificial filtration field from sand and gravel. After the water passes the filtration field, it is collected in pipelines and sent to wells or drainage ditches. It is not allowed to plant edible vegetables and trees above the filtration field, you can only make a flower bed.

Over time, the filtration field will become silted up and it will need to be cleaned, or rather replaced with sand and gravel. This is a very large amount of work, and your site may suffer in this case.

Conclusion. The construction of a sewerage system with a filtration field in a private house is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.

With the help of a deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a complete installation of sewage in a private house, even with a sufficiently high level of groundwater.

This station is a container, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after checking with professionals about the necessary equipment and volume. The cost of such a septic tank starts from 1200 USD, which is not at all cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed using anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter decomposes with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily need a constant supply of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. A filter is installed in the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, into which aerobic bacteria are added. In fact, this is a filtering field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Thanks to greater concentration microorganisms and small area water advancement, water purification occurs more thoroughly (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used to wash a car, water a garden, and much more. From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to a drainage ditch or to a storage tank.

Conclusion. For a private house where they live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station needs permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of sewage will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, they will start working only after two weeks.

Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply

This is practically an accelerated cleaning station in which natural processes take place artificially. The arrangement of the sewer system of a private house with the help of an aeration tank is not possible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is necessary to connect the air distributor and air pump.

This septic tank has three separate containers or chambers that are interconnected. Water by sewer pipe enters first into the first chamber, in which it settles and precipitates solid waste. Further, partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All activated sludge bacteria and microorganisms are aerobic, so forced aeration is necessary for their vital activity.

Then the water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aerotank by a special pump.

Due to the forced air supply, wastewater treatment occurs quite quickly, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering the garden, washing the car, etc.).

Conclusion. Aerotank, of course, is quite expensive (from 3700 USD), but at the same time very useful. There are no restrictions when installing this type of sewerage. Among the shortcomings, one can note only the need for electricity, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

aeration tank (aeration cleaning station);
septic tank with biofilter;
a sealed container in which waste accumulates.

There are certain restrictions on the placement of sewer system facilities.

Septic location:

at least 10 meters from the garden;
at least 20-50 meters from any water source (reservoir, well, well);
at least 5 meters from residential buildings.

Residential building location:

300 meters from stations and drain wells;
50 meters from aeration treatment plants;
25 meters from the filter field;
8 meters from the filter well.

Be sure to make a draft of the sewerage system of a private house and do not try to do everything without it, since the sewerage system is such a system in which there can be no approximation. It is best to contact architects or a design bureau, where professionals will help you create a competent project, taking into account operating conditions, climate, site and soil. Even better, if you do a sewer project together with a house project, even before construction begins.

The installation of a sewerage system for a private house itself is not particularly difficult. All you need to do is to properly distribute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For earthworks, you can hire an excavator, or you can do it yourself. The main thing is the drafting and competent selection of the sewerage system.

The phrase “conveniences on the street” can be heard less and less in the private sectors. This is not surprising - after all, everyone strives for comfort. However, it is out of the question if on a frosty night, waking up, you have to dress and run through the snow to a booth, standing 15 m from the dwelling. So home craftsmen equip latrines directly in the house. But in order for them to function normally, it is necessary to properly mount the sewage disposal system in a septic tank located on the street. Today we will consider how the sewerage system is installed in a private house with our own hands. We will also consider the scheme of its device, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.

Read in the article:

How to draw up a diagram of a sewerage device in a private house with your own hands

Starting to draw up a sewerage scheme for a private house, you need to decide on the number of drain points. It should be understood that if there are two floors in a residential building, the scheme of each is mounted, as planned, separately, with subsequent output to a common riser overlooking the septic tank.

The presence of only one riser is unacceptable only in the case of installing a pool or sauna - for them it will be necessary to mount a separate drain.

Important! From the completeness and correctness of the compiled sewerage scheme for a private house with your own hands, its performance and ease of installation will depend. The plan must indicate the length of all pipes - this will help to correctly calculate the amount of material.

Problems that may be encountered in design

The main difficulty in drawing up a project can be the introduction of a sewer pipe into the house. To do this, you will have to break through the foundation or install special pumps. Their installation will also be necessary when installing a bathroom in the basement or basement. At the same time, a special installation capable of grinding organic matter will not interfere. The sewage pump, together with the assembled knives, is called a multi-lift.

Expert opinion

Water supply and sewerage design engineer, LLC "ASP North-West"

Ask a specialist

“If the house is under construction, then regardless of whether the toilet is planned inside the house or not, it is worth building a sewer pipe into the foundation. For starters, you can just turn it off. If you need to install a sewer, it will be very useful.”

When designing, the number of residents must be taken into account. This indicator will directly affect both the volume of the septic tank and the diameter of the sewer pipes that will be used during the installation of the system. Do not forget about the depth of soil freezing - the system must be in the ground below this mark.

What types of sewers exist

The main types can be called:

Dry closets. This format is not very common in private homes. It is more suitable for giving, where there is no need for a constantly functioning sewer.
Cesspool- the easiest to install and cost-effective option. Its inconvenience is that it requires periodic pumping using special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure.
septic tank- the most common type of sewerage system. Waste products are processed using live bacteria and microorganisms or by adding to a container chemical substances decomposing organic waste.

The septic tank device cannot be called cheap, but it allows you to do without pumping for a long time. The main task is to add the necessary substances in time. As for the sewerage system itself for a private house, it will be the same for both the cesspool and the septic tank.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: a diagram and its main components

When drawing up a project for laying sewers in a private house, it should be noted on the diagram the location of plumbing devices, such as a sink or. All pipes are also taken into account (their length and diameter are prescribed in the plan), connections, corners and branches. Data are entered on the location of the riser and its output to the septic tank.

If you describe in detail all the parameters, you can mount the entire system much faster and better. The plan, after the installation of the sewer, must be saved. It can help with blockages or other emergency situations.

Drawing up a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house(as well as buildings with several floors), it is important to consider the installation sites for cleaning - special branches with plugs that will help get rid of blockages. Do not forget about the calculation of the slope of the highway. With a weak slope, the drain will be ineffective, and if it is excessive, grease and dirt will settle on the walls, which will eventually lead to an emergency. Let's try to figure out how to properly draw up a diagram of the sewer system.

Drawing up a scheme of the sewer system

The first thing to do is to draw a floor plan of all the premises of the building. It is more convenient if such schemes are available - quite often such schemes are drawn up during construction. In this case, it can be copied, and sewerage routes can already be “laid” along it. Having indicated the installation points of plumbing devices, we begin measurements. Every millimeter can play a role here.

Important! When installing thinner pipes (for example, from a sink), if they are longer than necessary, there is a danger of their curvature. In this case, the water will stagnate, which will lead to a build-up of grease and dirt and blockage.

If possible, it is better to place all plumbing devices in the immediate vicinity of the riser - this will allow sewerage to be performed with the greatest efficiency. All tie-ins in the riser are indicated. A prerequisite is the connection of the toilet drain directly to the main pipe, without additional connections. The drain of the bathroom and the sink can be combined - this will save material and get rid of extra pipes and tie-ins to the main riser.

What diameter should the pipes be

The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the number of residents and the planned intensity of use of the system. However, there are also generally accepted norms. So the diameter of the main riser directly to the septic tank is usually 100-110 mm. The same diameter as the toilet drain. But from the sinks and the bathroom come more thin pipes. Most often, for such purposes, a diameter of 50 mm is used. This thickness will be enough.

All connections and tie-ins must be made at an angle of 450. If the angle of the sewer pipe is even, it is this point that will periodically become clogged.

When installing a sewer system, it should be understood that the riser must go to the roof, from where air will be supplied. Consider what happens if there is no air access, and top part the riser is muffled, for example two-story house. Everyone knows that the toilet has a hydraulic lock that prevents the smell from the system from entering the room. In the absence of free access to air, flush the water in the toilet on the first floor. Due to the rarefaction, water is “drawn out” from the plumbing device on the second floor. The hydraulic lock is open, all the smell from the sewer system rushes into the living quarters.

How can sewer efficiency be improved?

It is possible to improve the quality of autonomous sewerage both by installing additional equipment and purely by installation parameters. To do this, you just need to correctly distribute the slope of the highways. The most effective is a slope of 3 cm / m. But for greater efficiency of the sewer system, this parameter can be increased to 4-5 cm / m. This will be quite enough for the efficient operation of the system and not enough for the rapid formation of grease or dirt deposits on the inner walls of the pipes.

Very effective against deposits on the walls modern facilities. But do not expect a miracle from them when a thorough blockage occurs. Advertisements may claim that the tool can easily cope with any of them, but this is not entirely true. In fact, such funds are good for periodic prevention. If the pipe is already thoroughly clogged, then there is nothing better than the good old cable.

Speaking of additional equipment It is impossible not to note the benefit in preventing blockages of equipment such as a waste disposal unit under the sink. It does not allow large cleanings and other debris to enter the sewer pipe. Everything that is sent to the drain after grinding, in consistency resembles a liquid porridge that is not capable of clogging the line.

How to make a sewer in a private house: stages of work

All work on the arrangement of the sewer system of a private house is carried out in several stages. There is no need to perform them without interruption, which means that installation can be carried out in your free time for a long time. However, according to professionals, such work is rarely delayed - as soon as the arrangement has begun, home master trying to get everything done as soon as possible. Consider step by step the steps that need to be performed. The algorithm of actions should be like this:

calculate the required volume of the septic tank;
install and equip the tank;
we lay the highway from the septic tank to the house;
we make internal wiring of sewer pipes and connect them to the system;
connect plumbing fixtures.

By following this procedure and simple rules for the production of work, you can be sure that the system will work flawlessly. Let's analyze each step in more detail.

How to calculate the required volume of a septic tank for a private house

The calculation can be made empirically: for this you need to sum up the entire water consumption of the family living in the house. However, if the sewerage system is installed at the stage of construction of the dwelling, this method is unacceptable. Then you can take the average values recommended by SanPiN. However, it is much easier to use the specially designed calculator below:

Send the result to my email

The average data is shown in the table below:

Number of residents	Average water consumption, m3/day	Required tank volume, m3
3	0,6	1,5
4	0,8	1,9
5	1,0	2,4
6	1,2	2,9
7	1,4	3,4
8	1,6	3,9
9	1,8	4,4
10	2,0	4,8

Many may wonder why the volume of the septic tank is 3 times more than the daily wastewater consumption. The answer is simple enough. Almost all models of septic tanks installed in our country are designed for a three-day processing of organic waste. The same applies to chemicals or live bacteria that are added there. It turns out that three days is exactly the period of time that is necessary for the complete processing of human waste products. Hence the triple values.

Related article:

From our materials you will learn the device, the principle of operation, location requirements, the secrets of self-equipping treatment facilities for a private house, as well as advice and recommendations from specialists.

Installation of the tank and equipment to it

More often, home masters turn to specialists for help in installing a septic tank. However, there is nothing super complicated in this work.

Having chosen a place in the yard, and having dug a pit, it is necessary to lay a reinforced concrete slab on its bottom, for which the container is fixed with the help of cables. If the groundwater level is high enough, then it is first dug in at the bottom of the pit drainage pipe with its withdrawal outside the site into the nearest sewer. Installation of ventilation of a septic tank is also required. It is performed as follows. A pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is removed from the ventilation hole, which runs underground at an inclination of about 4-5 m. An elbow of 450 is installed at the exit and then the pipe rises to a height of 3-4 m. in the courtyard.

In the place where sewage will be drained into the tank, a pipe segment with a diameter of 100-110 mm is installed (the size depends on the model of the septic tank and the diameter of the planned riser). The septic tank itself is buried underground, outside, above the ground, only a small part of it (often only the neck) remains, which is insulated.

Laying the sewer line from the septic tank to the house

To lay pipes, it is necessary to dig a trench at least 60 cm deep. In some regions of Russia, where the climate is colder, this parameter should be larger. In any case, the sewer line must be below the freezing level of the soil. It is best to sprinkle the trench with river sand or sand-gravel mixture (SGM). After laying the highway, she also falls asleep. It turns out that the pipe is inside a sand cushion. Further, the ASG is compacted a little, and ordinary soil is poured on top.

Important! The pipe from the house to the septic tank should go downhill. The optimal distance will be 4-5 cm / m. This will allow sewage not to linger inside, but to go into the container with the greatest efficiency.

How to do the internal sewerage wiring in a private house with your own hands

Sewerage wiring in a private house is done in strict accordance with the project, which has already been discussed in our article. In order to make it easier for the dear reader to understand this issue, we suggest considering several photo examples with comments.

Illustration	Action to take
	First, we mark the places where the sewer pipes will pass. It is best to do this at the laser level to ensure the required line slope.
	Now those places that will be in plain sight should be pierced to hide the sewer pipes in the grooves. But this can only be done if the thickness of the wall allows.
	Having cut through the wall along the marks, we knock out excess concrete (or foam concrete) using a perforator with a spatula.
	Where the wall will not be ditched, we drill holes with the same puncher and install special clamps that will hold the pipe.
	We cut plastic pipes to size. This can be done both with the help of a grinder, and with a simple hacksaw for metal.
	Having lubricated the internal rubber seal, we insert the edge of the corner or pipe into the socket of another piece. The connection is quite tight and tight.
	Similarly, we collect the entire highway to the main riser, which goes to the septic tank
	The part that does not sink into the strobe is fixed on previously prepared clamps.
	Do not forget that further will be produced Finishing work. Special plugs on the pipes will not allow construction debris to get inside.
	It remains only to attach the line to the main riser. Similarly, the installation of other branches of the sewer system of a private house is carried out.

Having figured out how to properly sewer in a private house, you can proceed to the installation of plumbing fixtures. But first, a few tips for connecting plastic pipes to each other.

Connecting plastic sewer pipes: some nuances

The quality of sewerage wiring in a private house depends on the correct production of pipe connections to each other. To do this, you need to purchase a special lubricant based on silicone. It should not be confused with silicone sealant- such compositions are not needed in such work.

If you look inside the bell, you can see a rubber o-ring there. It is quite enough for the tightness of the system. However, it is easy to damage it when connecting pipes to each other. Even if the o-ring moves a little, over time the connection will start to leak, and no one needs it. Silicone grease is used to prevent this problem. After its application, the pipes enter one another without any problems, creating a reliable and tight connection.

Article

Living in a private house, you want to create maximum comfort for your family in it, ensuring a high standard of living, so it is very important to think in advance about such an important issue as sewerage. Sewerage in a private house can be done by hand. This article will help you do all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.

The choice of a sewer system scheme should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for a compact placement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, bathrooms and kitchens). But the best option would be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector), through which sewage will be drained into a cesspool or septic tank.

Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a private house with their own hands is reduced to the arrangement of external and internal sewage. Internal sewerage works include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and pipe routing to such premises as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. External or external sewerage includes everything that is located outside the house, that is, a system of pipes going from home to a deep cleaning station (a rather expensive turnkey solution) or to a home-made septic tank (with a filtration field or storage). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. But in this article it will be considered an autonomous system, including effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and such a primitive method as a cesspool.

Internal sewerage

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the internal circuit. Even at the stage of designing a house, it is necessary to think about the fact that all the premises to which the sewer will be connected are located as close as possible to each other, since subsequently this approach will greatly simplify the scheme for arranging the internal sewerage. Each house assumes an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very diverse.

In this case, one should take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm should be used in the toilet to drain wastewater. For gray drains that will flow into the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, PP or PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 mm should be used. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of blockage, which is quite problematic to eliminate. It is more reliable and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewerage scheme, as they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron pipes. And besides this, it is much easier to install an internal sewerage system using such pipes.

First of all, it is necessary to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then deal with further wiring from it.

For a private house, the sewerage scheme is drawn up as follows sequences:

First you need to make a plan of the house to scale. If the dimensions of the house are unknown to you, then you will have to walk with a tape measure and measure everything;
then you need to decide where the risers will be located;
after that, it is necessary to mark the locations of plumbing fixtures on the plan and decide how they will be connected;
at the next stage, it is necessary to note the pipes that will go from the fittings and the riser to the plumbing fixtures, as well as all the connecting elements (tees, bends, and others);
all of the above should be done for each floor of your house;
then it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
now it remains only to sum up the length of all pipes related to the internal sewerage;
the next step will be the external system, on which you need to draw up an external sewerage scheme, which includes pipes going from a deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet. Do not forget to take into account all available and SNiPs.

Sewer pipes

Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, the pipes for these two sewage schemes are used differently. Currently, PP and PVC pipes, which have a characteristic gray color, are most often used for laying internal sewer pipes. For sunbeds and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewage, and other solutions must be used for external ones.

Most often, the pipes that are laid underground from the deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet are painted orange, which can be explained very simply - a bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground compared to the rest. But pipes for external sewerage differ from the rest not only in color - they have completely different requirements. Such pipes have greater rigidity, since they will have to withstand a significant load while underground. There are also more durable structures, an example of which can be two-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes, when constructing a sewerage system for a private house, is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, this should be enough to drain wastewater from the house.

Cast iron

Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.

Flaws: expensive, heavy and fragile, roughness can form on the inside due to corrosion, this can cause blockage.

Polypropylene

Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them most in demand for internal sewage. They can easily withstand the high temperature of wastewater.

Flaws: if used as intended, there are no drawbacks.

PVC

Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often used for outdoor sewage.

Flaws: the high temperature of wastewater is poorly tolerated, brittle (they do not bend, but crack).
Pipe laying

Probably the most time-consuming process in the construction of an autonomous sewage system in a private house with your own hands is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you decide to do this work yourself, then be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended that you first check the tightness of the system by flushing it with clean water, and only then, after making sure that all the seams are reliable, you can begin full operation.

Pipe connection

It was already said earlier that the easiest option would be to use PP or PVC pipes for sewage. Currently, there are a large number of offers for these products on the construction market, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes that are securely and easily connected at the joints due to the presence of rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

You also need to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a non-pressure system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per meter. Do not forget about this, since you will need to place different points of the pipeline at different heights to ensure the necessary slope.

Sewer outlet

If this was not taken care of during the construction of the foundation, then you will need to punch a hole in the foundation into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can fit. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe, the diameter of which is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.

Piping and riser installation

Exhaust pipe outlet

The output and installation of the fan pipe is given a very important role, since fan pipe is needed for:

maintaining atmospheric pressure inside the system so that water hammer and air discharge do not occur;
increasing the durability of the sewer system;
ventilation of the entire sewage system, which in turn is necessary for the efficient operation of the septic tank.

A fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is led to the roof of the house. Before connecting the fan pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install a revision. After that, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle to the attic.

Summing up total All of the above can be said as follows:

at the first stage, you should start drawing up a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing, if possible, the distance from plumbing fixtures to the riser;
it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes that go to the riser, in the course of connecting additional devices. Do not allow a reduction in diameter;
you need to follow a simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser. The toilet should be located closest to the riser;
when wiring in a private sewer house, sharp corners should be excluded, and pipes should be laid with a certain slope;
those where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision in advance;
for ventilation of the system, a fan pipe must be present in the wiring diagram.

Outdoor sewerage

You can equip a sewer in a private house with your own hands in different ways, which will be discussed later. It is very important to choose the right system that will meet all your needs.

It is necessary to choose a scheme for arranging a sewerage system, taking into account some parameters:

temporary or permanent residence in the house;
the number of people living in the house permanently;
how much water each person consumes daily (depending on the availability of a washing machine, washbasin, sink, toilet, shower, bath, etc.);
at what level do groundwater occur;
how big is your site and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
what type and structure of the soil;
climatic conditions.

For more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.

All sewer systems for a private house can be conditionally divided into two types:

storage systems (sealed wastewater tank, cesspool without a bottom);
facilities designed for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with two or three chambers and a filtration field, a septic tank with two overflowing wells and natural treatment, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).

Cesspool without a bottom

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was full, they buried it, and another one was dug out in another place.

It should be noted that it is possible to arrange sewage in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of average daily effluents does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case, soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter will be able to process the water that will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And in the event that the volume of runoff exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will lead to pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, this will slightly reduce the unpleasant odor that comes from it, and also speed up the process of water purification. But it's still not worth the risk.

Sealed storage tank

Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely full, for which you will have to call a sewage truck, which will cost you from 15 to 30 USD. The required volume of the container and the frequency of its emptying depends on the volume of wastewater. For example, if four people live in the house on a permanent basis and use a washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bath, then the storage tank should have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Conclusion. If the groundwater in your area is quite high, then as an option for arranging the sewerage system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible pollution. But the disadvantage of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be placed so that there is a convenient access to it. The bottom of the tank or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. The lid of the storage tank must be insulated so that the pipeline is protected from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. Using used Eurocubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive is brick or concrete pouring. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.

The easiest option for soil cleaning is a single-chamber septic tank

Conclusion. It is not recommended to build a sewerage system in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or with a large volume of wastewater. This option can only be used with a low level of groundwater and temporary residence. It will also be necessary to periodically change the crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.

Overflow wells-settlers - two-chamber septic tank

This sewer system consists of two wells: the first well has an airtight bottom, and the second one has no bottom, but is sprinkled with rubble and sand.

The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, in which additional cleaning will be carried out with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is worth installing a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site will have sandy or sandy soil, then this will be an ideal option. But remember that after about five years, the sand and gravel in the second well will need to be replaced.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

Conclusion. The construction of a sewerage system with a filtration field in a private house is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.

Natural treatment station - septic tank with biofilter

With the help of a deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a complete installation of sewage in a private house, even with a sufficiently high level of groundwater.

The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues decompose with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter decomposes with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily need a constant supply of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. A filter is installed in the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, into which aerobic bacteria are added. In fact, this is a filtering field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Due to the higher concentration of microorganisms and the small area of water movement, water purification is more thorough (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used to wash a car, water a garden, and much more. From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to a drainage ditch or to a storage tank.

Conclusion. For a private house where they live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station needs permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of sewage will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, they will start working only after two weeks.

Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply

This septic tank has three separate containers or chambers that are interconnected. Water through the sewer pipe first enters the first chamber, in which it settles and solid waste precipitates. Further, partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All activated sludge bacteria and microorganisms are aerobic, so forced aeration is necessary for their vital activity.

Then the water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aerotank by a special pump.

Due to the forced air supply, wastewater treatment occurs quite quickly, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering the garden, washing the car, etc.).

Conclusion. Aerotank, of course, is quite expensive (from 3700 USD), but at the same time very useful. There are no restrictions when installing this type of sewerage. Among the shortcomings, one can note only the need for electricity, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

aeration tank (aeration cleaning station);
septic tank with biofilter;
a sealed container in which waste accumulates.

General rules for sewerage in a private house

There are certain restrictions on the placement of sewer system facilities.

Septic location:

at least 10 meters from the garden;
at least 20-50 meters from any water source (reservoir, well, well);
at least 5 meters from residential buildings.

Residential building location:

300 meters from stations and drain wells;
50 meters from aeration treatment plants;
25 meters from the filter field;
8 meters from the filter well.

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