How to make a ladder out of wood. Production of interfloor stairs for cottages: the nuances of construction and beautiful examples. Calculation of a wooden staircase

Without an attached ladder it is difficult on the farm: neither to remove fruits, nor to climb onto the roof. In this master class, we will tell you in detail how to make a wooden staircase for household needs in just a few hours using a simple tool: solid, reliable and with a fairly aesthetic appearance.

For such a ladder, you will need two beams 60x40 mm, which will go to two bowstrings. Choose the length for yourself, in this case it is 3.6 m. A smaller beam will go to the crossbars - 50x35 mm. To determine the number of steps, divide the length of the ladder into sections equal to the height from the floor to the foot when the leg is bent at the knee. In the above version, these are 11 steps every 30 cm.

To work, you will need a hacksaw, a hammer, a mount, a small hatchet - preferably a carpenter's, with a butt in the form of a hammer. From power tools - a drill, a belt grinder, a planer and a jigsaw (instead of a hacksaw). Nails can be used as the main fastener, but self-tapping screws will be more reliable. Black hardened ones are not suitable, they can burst under load, so buy ordinary steel with an anodized finish and a flush head.

To make the ladder more durable, and the upper edge of the step is horizontal when tilted, notches must be made on the short side of the bowstring. First, mark the marks along the length of the bar at the places where the steps are installed, step back from them the width of the crossbars - 50 mm, and apply a second mark, drawing the edges of the notches under the square. Transfer the marks to the side faces on both sides, mark the depth of the notch on the bottom - 15-20 mm, and make a cut to this depth. Connect the labels with a slash.

Set the hatchet with the tip on the top mark and, tapping on the butt with a hammer, chop off the wood.

Using the ax as a planer, trim the resulting notch bevel.

Make notches on both bowstrings to speed up the process - knock them together with nails.

The bars on the bowstrings need to be slightly lightened by processing the edges with a grinder.

Pay special attention to the notches, carefully sand the bevel.

Paint the inside of the notches and set them aside for a while.

For further work with the steps, you will need to make one end base. Draw marks on one of the ends for a square.

Saw off uneven edges and grind the end with a grinder, for beauty, you can remove a small chamfer. Similarly to bowstrings, lighten the wood a little and make the surface smooth.

Now you need to make the top and bottom crossbars. In order to visually quickly distinguish the top and bottom of the stairs, they are made with a slight narrowing, so the top rung is slightly shorter than the bottom. Choose the width of the stairs that is convenient, in the above version it is 65 cm at the bottom and 55 cm at the top. Mark the length using a tape measure.

And draw a cut line under the square.

Cut off the excess bar.

And grind the ends with a grinder.

Draw a line under the square, stepping back from each edge by half the thickness of the bowstring - 20 mm. Mark the center of this line, you will get this markup:

Drill on the cross through hole so that the thread of the self-tapping screw passes freely through it.

Make a small countersink with a larger drill.

Set the top and bottom rungs into the notches and level the ladder so that the ends of the rungs are flush with the side edges of the bowstrings.

Measure the diameter of the thread rod and select a drill bit 0.2-0.3 mm smaller. In this case, the diameter of the rod was 2.8 mm, so a 2.5 mm drill was installed in the drill.

Through the hole in the steps, mark the bevel of the notches, maintaining the position and direction of the drill. Then remove the crossbars and drill a hole 2/3 deep. It is necessary to drill holes for a self-tapping screw so that it does not split the tree, otherwise all the work will be in vain.

Paint the edges of the steps on the back side where they are adjacent to the bowstring. Then put the steps back in place and tighten the screws.

Now the ladder has the right dimensions, it remains only to fasten the missing steps. Lay the bars in the notches and set the base ends flush with the side edges of the bowstrings.

Mark on the crossbars the desired length along the opposite bowstring.

Prepare and install the steps as the first two: draw the cut lines under the square, cut off the excess and grind the ends with a grinder. Mark the edges for drilling and make holes with a countersink. Then tint the edges and set the steps in place, pre-drilling the bowstring with a small drill.

It's time for painting. There are no special secrets here, but if you want the paint not to clog the slots in the head, unscrew the screws 3-4 turns and tighten them after painting.

If after painting in some places the tree is translucent, you need to apply a second layer. Alkyd paint completely hardens in 30 hours, after which the stairs can be used.

A wooden staircase with your own hands is made quite simply. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of construction wooden structure so you don't make mistakes in the process.

All work on the manufacture of stairs can be divided into two main stages:

Design;
Construction assembly.

Design

A staircase is a rather complex structure, so it is simply impossible to make it without a detailed project, especially for a beginner. The design process can be broken down into three main steps:

Step 1: Determining the type of structure

All existing types of stairs can be divided into two types:

Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only winders located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
Keep in mind that such stairs are inconvenient to use, and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend beginners to take up construction spiral staircase;

Marching. These stairs have smooth marches (flights of stairs). They are more comfortable and safer to use. However, keep in mind that mid-flight stairs take up more space in the room.

Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subspecies:

Single-march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
Swivel with winder steps . They can have several flights of stairs, between which there are turning (winder steps);

Rotary with landings. Flat platforms are installed between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;

"Duck step". The peculiarity of these stairs is the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, only one foot can stand on a step, hence their name.

Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the angle of inclination can exceed 40-45 degrees.

The type of construction should be chosen depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If there is not enough space, you can make a "duck step" staircase, which requires a minimum of floor space on the ground floor. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make turntable with marching platforms.

Stage 2: calculate the stairs

At this stage, you need to decide on such important parameters of the stairs as:

Number of treads;
riser height;
The angle of the stairs;
March length;
The area that the stairs will occupy on the first floor.

Any staircase should be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:

Step sizes. The height cannot be made more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The width of the tread should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
Keep in mind that all steps must be the same height and width, otherwise the stairs will turn out to be traumatic;
The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs with a platform.
In addition, it is desirable that the march has an odd number of steps, so that a person ends the descent or ascent with the same foot with which he began to move up the stairs;
March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
Railing height. At least 90 cm.

Calculation of the number of steps. Before proceeding with the calculation of the stairs, you need to measure the height between floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. the height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.

Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.

To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be any within 160-190 mm. For example, let's take a height of 180 mm, in which case we will have the number of steps 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.

Since we need an even amount, we will correct the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.

Tread width calculation. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable ladder - a + b = 470 mm, where:

a - riser height;
b - tread width.

From this formula we get the width of the tread 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is well within the acceptable range.

March length calculation. Now it remains to calculate only the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection on the floor. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the tread by the number of steps - 29.4x17 \u003d 499.8 ~ 5 m.

Since the stairs will turn out to be quite long, it is advisable to make it rotary, consisting of two marches. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the platform, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.

The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. at least 90-100 cm.

If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs to the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within the acceptable range.

Calculation of the length of the kosour or bowstring. The calculation of the kosour is carried out according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs in the square + the height of the stairs in the square = the length of the kosour in the square.

Stage 3: draw up a drawing

Now you need to prepare a drawing according to which you will make the details of the stairs. To do this, first consider the details that the design of a wooden staircase includes:

Kosour. Bearing beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the kosour takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;

Bowstring. It is also a carrier beam. It differs from the kosour by the absence of cutouts for the steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam by the butt.
To attach the treads to the bowstring, recesses are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;

Steps. They consist of two elements - tread (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). It must be said that the design wooden stairs may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.

What is the best way to make a ladder - on stringers or bowstrings? The design on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cutouts for the steps, however, the ladder on the stringers is able to withstand a large load.

Making stairs

Consider how a ladder is made of wood with your own hands. This process can be conditionally divided into several stages:

Stage 1: preparation of stringers

The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm.
	Beam preparation. Cut boards 40x300 mm along the length of the stringer according to the design calculations.
	Kosour markup. For marking, use a construction square. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers, as shown in the photo. Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and stringer must match the angle of inclination. In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you can perform the following steps: Lock the kosour in working position; Mark a cutting line for the bottom of the board that will rest on the floor; Mark the first tread and riser with a square. In the process of marking, use the level so that the step is parallel. The distance from the cut line to the first tread should be equal to the height of the step; Mark the remaining treads and risers, focusing on the markings of the first step.
	Cutting out the kosour. Carefully cut out the cuts with a hacksaw, jigsaw or other tool. In the same way, make all the other stringers.

To make paired kosours exactly the same, use the first kosour as a template - attach it to the board and circle it with a pencil.

Stage 2: frame assembly

Now we need to make the remaining elements of the ladder frame, and install them. The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. In addition to the kosour for assembly, you will need: Beam 70x70 mm or 100x100 mm; Boards 40x300 mm; Glass for timber (fastener); Joiner's glue.
	Mounting the kosour to the wall: Fix the kosour on the wall in working position; Make sure the stringer is installed correctly. To do this, attach the level to the cutouts under the steps - they must be located strictly horizontally; Fix the beam with anchors or self-tapping screws (if the wall is wooden); In the same way, attach the stringer of the second span to the wall. In order for the beams to be positioned correctly, it is advisable to mark the walls before installing them.
	Mounting support post: Designate the location of the support column for the landing; Fix the post to the floor with a special glass and dowel-nails. Step back from the installed pole 10 cm (span spacing), and install a second pole on which the beam of the upper span will rest.
	Column marking. Mark on the pole the junction of the second stringer. To do this, you can use a laser or water level.
	Installation of the second stringer: Treat the junction of the stringer with the pole with carpentry glue. It is advisable to pre-mill the junction. Connect the stringer to the post; On the back of the post, screw in a few self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them.
	Installation of the stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span.
	Site frame assembly: If the site is adjacent to the walls, fix 40x300 mm boards on the walls at the level of the site; If the site does not adjoin the walls, install additional supports and pull them together with rails, as shown in the photo example.

This completes the installation of the frame. If your stairs are straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.

Stage 3: cladding stairs

Sheathing stairs is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage we will need: Wooden boards 30x300 mm; Joiner's glue; Clapboard.
	Marking steps and treads: Mark the boards according to the dimensions of the treads and risers; If the treads are rounded, mark with a template.
	Cutting details. Use a jigsaw or other tool for this purpose. In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards for sheathing the landing. Keep in mind that the tread should hang over the riser by a centimeter or two.
	Hole drilling: Mark the location of the screws on the parts; Drill holes.
	Processing the joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this.
	Installation of steps and risers. Fasten the parts with self-tapping screws.
	Sheathing the space under the stairs: Fasten the rail on the floor under the outer stringer, as shown in the photo; Sheathe the space between the floor and the stairs with clapboard. The boards are attached to the lower rail and stringer, and are also connected to each other into a lock.
	Upper flight lining: Fasten the slats between the stringers; Attach the lining with self-tapping screws to the stringers and cross rails.

Stage 4. railing installation

Now you can start installing the railing. It is more expedient to buy ready-made balusters and handrails, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, their price is small - the cost of figured pine balusters starts at an average of 100 rubles apiece.

The installation process of balusters and railings looks like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. To equip the railing you will need: A set of balusters; handrails; dowels; Paint glue.
	Installation of dowels for balusters: Mark the treads so that all the dowels are on the same line; Drill holes according to the diameter of the dowels; Coat the holes with wood glue; Drive dowels into the holes.
	Installation of balusters. The instruction looks like this: Drill a dowel hole in the bottom end of the baluster; Lubricate the hole with glue; Put the baluster on the dowel; If the baluster is located close to the tread, it can be additionally “grabbed” with self-tapping screws.
	Preparing balusters for handrail installation. Cut the top of the posts at an angle equal to the angle of the flight of stairs.
	Fastening handrails to the outer posts: Treat the junction of the handrail to the posts with glue; Screw the screws from the bottom into the handrail obliquely so that they enter the column, as shown in the photo.
	Fastening handrails to intermediate balusters. Treat the junction of the balusters to the handrail with wood glue. Screw the self-tapping screws obliquely into the balusters so that they fit into the handrail.

The process of manufacturing a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that's left is to do the finishing touches.

Stage 5: finishing

As a rule, in the process of finishing, wooden stairs are varnished, stained or impregnated with their own hands. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations	Description of works
	Materials. For finishing you will need: Putty on wood (selected to match the color of the tree); Paintwork.
	Puttying: Remove any dust and dirt from the surfaces you will putty; Fill with putty the recesses of the self-tapping screws, as well as small cracks and other flaws in the wood, if any; Level the surface immediately with a narrow spatula; After the putty has hardened, it is necessary to clean its surface with sandpaper.
	Sanding: Sand all flat surfaces with a grinder; Treat areas of complex shape with sandpaper manually.
	Dust removal. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth.
	Varnishing: Apply the varnish in a thin, even layer with a brush; After the surface has dried, apply the varnish again; Upon completion of varnishing, the surface should be polished. It is desirable to cover a wooden staircase with a matte varnish or impregnation. Covered with a glossy varnish can be slippery and unsafe to move around.

As you can see, stairs to the second floor are made quite simply, so for their manufacture it is enough to have basic woodworking skills.

Conclusion

We examined the process of making stairs with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can take on the job yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of work - write comments, and I will be happy to help you.

The construction of stairs in the house is not an easy process, but doable. The main difficulty lies in calculating the angle of inclination and span parameters, because not only ease of use, but also the durability of the structure depends on this. A solid and beautiful staircase to the second floor with your own hands is an opportunity to test your strength and gain experience for further home improvement.

First you need to decide on the type of stairs in order to correctly make calculations. The most commonly used stairs in the house are wood, concrete and metal; according to the configuration, they are straight, rotary and screw. There are also combined designs of varying complexity.

Concrete products require a very strong base and a lot of time to manufacture, but at the same time they are the strongest and most durable. Mounting metal structures it will not be difficult for those who know how to use welding, and anyone who is familiar with the technology of this process can make a wooden staircase.

A direct flight staircase to the second floor is considered the easiest to install; it consists of a small number of parts, takes up little space, does not require complex calculations. Screw structures are used where there is little free space; they look very elegant, but are not always easy to use. It will be problematic to lift something large and heavy along such steps. Multi-span structures are more difficult to build, but they are ideal for houses where there is a large distance between floors.

simple wooden staircase

A single-flight staircase consists of stringers, railings, treads and risers. The tread is the horizontal part of the step, the riser is the vertical part. Stringers are load-bearing structural elements with special cutouts along the upper edge for fastening steps. Instead of stringers, bowstrings are often used - load-bearing beams with grooves for steps. Riser and railings are optional, but for convenience and safety, it's better to have them.

The height of the stairs is equal to the distance between the floors plus the thickness of the floors. To simplify the calculation of the length of the span and base, you first need to determine the parameters of the steps. If elderly people and children live in the house, the optimal step height is 15 cm, for the rest, a height of 20 cm will be more convenient. It is not recommended to make the riser even higher, as the rise will be too steep and less comfortable.

The width of the step is 20-30 cm, and here a lot depends on how much space can be taken under the stairs. The wider the steps, the more space the structure takes up. When suitable dimensions are selected, the number of steps and the length of the base can be calculated. To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the height of the riser, round the resulting value to an integer, and then multiply by the depth of the tread. For example, if the total height is 3 m and the height of the riser is 20 cm, 15 steps will be required:

3000:200=15

With a step width of 25 cm, the length of the base is 15x250=3750 mm.

Manufacturing technology

When the calculations are made, you can begin to manufacture the elements of the stairs. For stringers, very dense hardwood is needed, because they must support not only the weight of the structure, but also people. A template is cut out of thick cardboard, on which the cutouts correspond to the size of the steps, and the slope is equal to the angle of the stairs. At the ends of the stringers, grooves are cut out for attachment to the base and upper floors, after which they are marked according to the template.

For further work you will need:

jigsaw;
grinder;
building level;
anchor bolts;
drill;
a hammer.

With an electric jigsaw on the stringers, protrusions are made according to the marking, then they are processed on both sides with a grinder. Holes for fasteners are cut out in the floor beams or metal supports are installed. On the floor of the first floor, along the line of location of the lower step, a support beam is installed and fixed with anchor bolts. After that, the installation of the stringers is carried out, be sure to check the angle of inclination with the help of a level. At the bottom and at the top, the stringers are fixed with anchor bolts.

The next step is the manufacture of steps. To do this, take dry boards with a thickness of 36 mm; their width should be equal to the width of the steps or be slightly larger. For risers, boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. The length of the blanks must correspond to the width of the stairs - from 80 cm to 1.2 m.

After trimming, each workpiece must be sanded to remove sharp cuts and bumps. The installation process of the steps is very simple: the lower cutouts of the stringers are coated with carpentry glue and the risers are applied, leveling along the edges. Fix them with screws and lay on top of the steps. Glue is needed so that the wooden elements do not creak under load.

Alternately laying all the steps, proceed to the installation of the railing. Railings consist of balusters and handrails; timber is used to make balusters square section or figured blanks made of wood. Balusters are installed either on each step, or through one, depending on the slope and length of the span. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, which are often closed with special plugs for beauty. If the staircase to the second floor is located in the center of the room, the railing can be installed on both sides.

The finished structure is polished again and treated with an antiseptic primer. After that, you need to cover the tree with varnish, paint or other composition that does not form a too smooth surface. If the steps are rough, this will increase their safety for the household. The coating is applied in 2 or 3 layers, with each layer being completely dry before applying the next.

In a spacious house with concrete floors on the second floor, you can make a concrete staircase. Most often, two types of structures are mounted in houses - monolithic and combined, in which only the kosour is concrete. The second option looks more attractive and elegant. For the manufacture of a concrete staircase, formwork and a very solid foundation are required.

In the process of work you will need:

edged board, upholstered with a film, or waterproof plywood;
durable timber 100x100 mm;
knitting wire and fittings;
self-tapping screws;
concrete mortar.

Formwork boards are chosen with a thickness of 3 cm, the thickness of plywood should not be less than 18 mm. All dimensions are calculated in the same way as for a wooden staircase, but the base must be as strong as possible. They start with the formwork assembly: boards or plywood are knocked down according to the drawing, observing the angle of inclination and preventing the formation of cracks.

The finished formwork is installed between floors and fixed with wooden bars. After that, reinforcement is laid out inside the frame, tying the transverse rods with wire. In places where the railings are installed, corks made of wood are fixed, and then the formwork is poured with a ready-made solution. You need to fill the frame immediately, otherwise the solidity of the base will be broken.

When the concrete sets well, the formwork is removed, and the surface of the steps is periodically moistened to avoid cracking. You can start finishing only after complete drying and hardening of the concrete. For the manufacture of a combined staircase, the kosour is poured in exactly the same way, but the formwork is made much narrower and takes into account the installation of steps.

For finishing a monolithic structure, wood, stone, tile and other materials are used. When cladding, the weight of the material should be taken into account, because tiles and stone put a greater load on the base than wood panels. Any steps can be attached to a concrete kosour, such a base goes especially well with a tree.

For the manufacture and installation of direct metal stairs on the second floor you will need:

steel channel No. 10;
metal corners;
welding machine;
sheet iron;
file and grinder with a nozzle for grinding.

The channel is cut into pieces and a frame is assembled from them according to the size of the stairs. Corners are welded to the side faces of the frame at regular intervals equal to the height of the step. All corners should be parallel to each other. To make it easier to install the structure, the steps are welded after mounting and fixing the frame.

The upper ends of the frame are securely fixed with anchor bolts to the ceiling of the second floor, the lower ends are fixed to the floor. Next, sheet metal steps are welded and railings are attached. Upon completion of the assembly, the joints are ground with a nozzle or processed with a file, after which they are coated with an anti-corrosion primer.

This design takes up little space and looks more decorative. With a height of 2.5 m, you will need to make about 15-17 steps; the diameter of the base will be about 2 m. The most common way to mount spiral staircases is to string trapezoidal or triangular steps onto the central axis. The narrow part has a width of 15 cm, the wide one is 30-35 cm.

To make a spiral staircase yourself, you will need:

steel pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
pipe with a diameter of 55 mm;
wooden slats for the template;
corners for steps;
welding machine;
file;
primer.

The smaller diameter pipe is the center post, so its length must correspond to the distance between the first and second floors. For greater stability of the structure, it is recommended to concrete the rack at the base, after setting it vertically. A pipe of larger diameter is cut into cylinders about 25 cm long. The cuts must be strictly perpendicular, otherwise the steps cannot be aligned horizontally.

It is very important that the cylinders fit tightly on the central tube and do not form backlash. If tight docking does not occur, seal rings will be required.

For the manufacture of steps, it is convenient to use a template from the rails. Wooden slats glued together so that the corners inserted into the frame form a step of the specified parameters.

Each stage is welded to its cylinder and carefully polished. After the manufacture of all the elements, you can begin to assemble the structure. The steps are put on the axial pipe, set the angle and tightly welded to the axis.

The final stage is the fastening of the railing and finishing. Railings may consist of fittings, chrome-plated tubes, thin profile; wrought iron railings look very elegant. All metal surfaces must be sanded and treated with a primer, painted.

Similarly, a spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled from wooden steps. Wood blanks are made in the form of a trapezoid, in the narrow part of which a hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled. With the help of special seals, the steps strung on the axis are fixed on the central rack. Next, railings are installed, the tree is primed and painted, decorated with decor.

Video - How to make a staircase to the second floor

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden staircase

When building a house of at least 2 floors, you definitely need to think about the stairs in it. And if the house will be built with your own hands, it is logical to do the stairs as well.

Various photos of stairs help to make a preliminary choice and clearly understand what type of lift you need. But before undertaking work, carefully calculate the future design for strength and dimensions, this will save time and money, because incorrect calculations (or lack thereof) will lead to numerous alterations of the original project.

Stair types

Exist a large number of different options flights of stairs. They differ in the material of manufacture (wood, concrete or metal), the type of rise (sloping stairs, spiral, with a turn by a certain degree).

The most common is a ladder made of wood. Also often construct a staircase with a turn of 90 degrees. It is not uncommon for these two types of lifting device to be combined into one.

In case of limited space, a spiral staircase is made of metal. The screw type of lifting saves space, and the manufacture of metal increases the strength of the structure. Concrete is used for stairs in massive buildings (for example, mansions).

What to look out for

In a low-rise building, having no construction experience, it is better to order a modular staircase, a kind of designer, where all the details are sawn and numbered, and you just have to assemble them using the instructions. These are usually made of wooden stairs.

When building a staircase made of concrete, in addition to pouring the frame, you will need to perform an external finish (beautiful stone or wood materials). It's a double waste of time and money. However, for cottages of 3 or more floors, they are mandatory according to fire safety requirements.

When making a ladder for the first time, you do not need to swing at once on complex structure. The simpler the model, the more likely it is that you will be able to successfully build this lifting device on the first attempt.

Pay attention to the angle of inclination of the stairs: if it is more than 45 degrees, the ladder will be considered attached, and you can only go down it backwards. The optimal angle of elevation is considered to be 37 degrees.

Wood as a material for construction is preferable, as it allows, thanks to its properties, to correct minor construction flaws that have arisen due to inaccurate calculations and inexperience of the contractor.

Also, after construction, the building may settle due to loose soil, as a result, the staircase can become several centimeters higher or lower than the floor, and it is easier to fix this in a wooden structure.

When constructing a lift with a turn towards it, the distance between the spans must be at least 100 mm.

Stages of construction

Answering the question of how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, there are several stages of construction.

The first stage of any structure, whether it is a staircase to a house or an interfloor staircase, is the creation of a project. Particular attention should be paid to the safety of the building and its ease of use.

The structure must withstand the average weight of an ordinary person with a fair margin. Be sure to use railings!

If they are not available, another fence must be designed to ensure the safety of descent and ascent.

Consider creating a wooden staircase with stringers

After you have designed your building, you need to prepare the materials. In our case, choose boards of suitable thickness and length, prepare balusters with railings and prepare stringers. This will be the second stage of construction.

A pine board 4 cm thick is suitable as a material for stringers. On it, we mark the steps according to the pattern and cut them out with an electric jigsaw.

Note!

We use the resulting product as a model for the second (and if the width of the stairs is more than a meter, then the third) kosour. We cut the required number of steps in size.

The third step is to assemble all the parts together. First of all, the stringers are installed in their places of permanent placement. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the steps are attached to the stringers.

Then, using studs, they put balusters on the steps, and handrails are attached to them. The stairs are ready!

DIY staircase photo

Note!

If you plan a wooden staircase with your own hands - step-by-step instruction with photos, videos and installation projects, posted on this portal will be an excellent guide in this matter. To prepare for the process, you need to stock up essential tool and materials.

Wooden march between the first and second floor

Materials and parameters

Lumber: board 40 and 25 cm wide, 4 to 2.5 cm thick, beams 5x5 cm, carpentry glue, paints and varnishes, galvanized screed rods, self-tapping screws and corners. Among the equipment used is a hand circular, a screwdriver, brushes, abrasive skin, a clamp, a chisel, a grinder.

For correct placement, the slope of the slope is determined, equal to 25 - 40 gr. The gap between the steps is 19 cm. The width of the tread is 25 cm or more. The height of the handrails is 90 cm. edged boards with parameters 40 cm wide and 4 cm thick.

Wooden ladder installation

Installation of a conventional straight staircase

Here you can find out the best way to create a wooden staircase with your own hands, a video with step-by-step instructions will allow you to quickly and correctly build a structure:

The marking of areas for the installation of treads is provided by means of a circular using a template. To do this, cuts are created with a depth of 1 cm. Using a chisel, the mass of wood is removed between the cuts. The finished bowstring is mounted on the workplace.
The bowstrings are fixed with self-tapping screws to the floor surface. To do this, stock up on a screwdriver and galvanized metal corners.

Solid wood staircase

Steps are cut out of boards 25 cm wide using a circular. The thickness of the steps is shaved to fit the width of the span, not less than 2.5 cm. The end parts are processed with a grinder for more reliable fixation with a bowstring.
The assembly of steps and bowstrings is carried out with carpentry glue. The end parts of the steps and the grooves in the bowstring are smeared. For the screed, galvanized rods with threaded ends are used. Nuts with wide spacers are screwed on them.
Two boards are fixed to the installed rack at a level of 90 cm. They will provide the functions of handrails.
3.5" steel post.
Wood massif 1×8.
Wooden elements 1×12.
Connectors in the form of racks.
Supports for handrails.
Handrails with specified parameters.
Metal base for steps.
Welding machine.

Spiral staircase: Materials for manufacturing

Ladder structure made of timber

Step by step installation

In the construction under consideration, the distance between the floors is 3 m. Then the total height is divided by the selected size of the steps and their number is obtained: 300 cm ÷ 18 cm = 16.6 pcs.

The top position will end with step 17 (rounded result). The width of the steps along the inner edge is 10 cm. The calculation of the outer edge begins with determining the outer diameter of the stairs without handrails.

The average rack and 2 steps form a section of 172 cm. To determine the circumference, it is necessary to multiply the diameter of the stairs by 3.14. Then 172 cm x 3.14 = 540 cm. Since 17 steps are to be installed, 210 ÷ 17 = 32 cm. To create an overlap of 2.5 cm, the width of the steps outside is 35 cm.

Pine stairs

support part

The screw device is created using a central metal support and bases for steps. For a central post with a diameter of 20 cm, 400 cm are cut off. Of these, 300 are reserved for 17 steps, 90 cm for the fence at the top and 10 cm protrude for the stock.

The column is marked at the points where steps are planned to be erected, that is, every 17.64 cm. Top part crowned with a thick round plate welded to the post. At the bottom, a square platform with a height of 1 cm and parameters of 30 by 30 cm is created. Gaps are made at each corner of the platform for anchors and fixed to the base.

Board steps

Stair placement

Steps are attached to the central support in the marked areas. Each subsequent step overlaps the previous one by 2.5 cm so that it is possible to fix the supports for the connection. They attach one step to another. This is metal or wood. Then all the bases of the steps are fixed to the central support. Wooden steps are superimposed on the bases. Gaps are made in the places connecting the supports.

Then you can screw 3 railing posts per step so that there is a gap of no more than 10 cm between them. After mounting the posts, you can fix the handrails. When buying material, it is important to observe the ability to form bends in the direction of the stairs.

Hardwood steps

When carrying out decorative processing, it is possible to paste over a metal support with wood materials. Lacquer coatings are used to finish the steps. They are applied over a primed surface.

Attention! Widely used wooden steps in combination with glass, metal and plastic handrails.

For the installation of structures, adhesive compositions with different types fasteners. However, their device may impose too much load on the product.

Do-it-yourself wooden staircase - step by step instructions, calculations, photo and video editing

If you plan a wooden staircase with your own hands - step-by-step instructions with photos, videos and installation projects posted on this portal will be an excellent guide in this matter. To prepare for the process, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials. Wooden march between the first and second floor

Create your dream staircase!

Pivot staircase made of pine with winder steps

For any private house with several floors, a staircase is an indispensable element. But in addition to the utilitarian function, this element also has an important aesthetic value. And if a wooden staircase is made with your own hands, this is also another argument in favor of the talents and excellent taste of the owners of the home. The same can be attributed to a beautiful porch, which is even easier and faster to work on.

In this article, we will briefly introduce you to how you can independently and economically go through all the stages from drawings and calculations and get an original staircase or porch in your house.

Design with an invitation step

Why wooden?

"Deaf" spiral wooden staircase

If we compare wood with other materials for construction, then its advantages are immediately obvious. This material is relatively inexpensive, easy enough to process even for a beginner, and allows you to vary well both the design features of the porch or interfloor stairs, and their color scheme. It is easy to verify this by looking at the photos of finished products in our collection or a training video on their calculations and manufacturing in thematic articles on the site.

The economy option in home building is usually pine. It is classified as an inexpensive softwood. If you decide to make a wooden staircase with your own hands from this wood, please note that it also has disadvantages:

it quickly loses texture stability, due to which the steps will constantly creak during operation;
it darkens and partially loses its aesthetic appearance.

Most often, pine is used to make a wooden porch with your own hands. In the photo below you can see that such a porch is quite common in country houses with an overestimated foundation or in suburban construction.

For the main span, it is customary to use more expensive types of wood - oak / beech and larch.

The first will give the structure strength and solidity, and the second is characterized by increased moisture resistance. The price of such wood will easily pay off with its durability.

High porch on the foundation

What do you need for stairs?

First of all, you should create the very concept of the future design. Any construction of wooden stairs with your own hands comes down to 2 technological options:

Spiral stairs. This is the most ergonomic option, because even one and a half square meters of floor is enough to accommodate them. They win in terms of stylish design, a variant of which you can choose from the numerous photos available on our website and made by yourself. The only problem is that it will be very difficult for beginners to make competent calculations of such a design, blanks according to drawings and mount it.
Marching stairs. This is a classic version with spans and railings. The construction of a marching model is within the power of anyone who is not too lazy to watch our thematic videos on hand-made wooden stairs. Such a design, indispensable for a porch or a country house, can be mounted on stringers or bowstrings (the first option is the easiest).

Having decided on the model, all that remains is to stock up on materials and the necessary carpentry tools, which must include a screwdriver.

Beech quarter turn staircase

Main stages of construction

For clarity, we have compiled a list of the basic steps for successfully creating a flight of stairs.

Carrying out calculations

Accurate calculations that allow you to determine the size of a staircase or porch, their location, the amount of building material, and the correct drawings - this is already 80% of a successful result in stair business! There are some common truths here that should always be followed:

Drawing 2-flight span

the slope of the stairs for comfortable ascent should not exceed 45 degrees;
the site should be equipped only if the number of span steps is more than 10;
standard tread (step width) is from 25 to 35 cm;
the height of the riser should not exceed 16-18 cm;
comfortable march width - 1.2 m;
the safe height of the railing is about a meter.

In the manufacture of wooden stairs with your own hands, calculations are much easier to make if you use special computer programs from the category of "construction calculators" that guarantee the accuracy of the calculations.

Having calculated the parameters, you can start making your own hands and drawings for a wooden staircase. If you do not have sufficient experience in this matter, then for example, you can take a photo of similar drawings.

Marking and manufacturing of structural elements

Work with blanks of an interfloor staircase or porch should be started by marking them with a ruler and a special corner. This procedure should be approached very responsibly, because even a slight distortion of the calculations can ruin steps, railings or balusters.

After that, you can proceed to sawing steps and risers. It is best to do this efficiently and quickly with a special electric saw with adjustable angles and depth of cut. To simplify the procedure, a standard step will help, which will replace the stencil. The thickness of the board for tread and risers should not be less than 40 mm. Do not forget about the sufficient width and a good margin of safety, which the steps of the porch should have. If the steps are ready, you can do stringers or bowstrings, for which a bar with a thickness of at least 50 mm is used.

Simple design without risers

Assembly and installation of stairs

After all the elements are ready, the stringers are attached to the floor and ceilings and for strength (depending on the location of the stairs) can be additionally fixed to the wall or reinforced with a board in the area of every third step. Then, according to the markings, steps and risers are attached to the bars. Here it is necessary to align all horizontal and vertical angles exactly at 90 degrees. They fix the parts with wood glue and stainless steel screws, while high-quality gluing of all joints will not allow the stairs to creak.

The final part of the installation is the installation of railings and balusters. Here you can cheat a little and buy finished products in the store for the simple reason that it is impossible to make these elements perfectly symmetrically and with high quality without a special machine at home. For the purpose of security Special attention should be given to the strength and reliability of the fastening of these supporting parts.

To have a complete picture of the sequence of work, the detailed installation process can be previewed on the video or use the photo in step-by-step instructions.

Balusters with metal pin

Product processing

Completes the manufacture of stairs protection of its elements from decay. After sanding the board, this can be done with paint, varnish or stain, thanks to which the staircase will be protected from the external environment and will not emit an annoying creak. Lacquer coating will help internal structures to fit into the interior. The photo shows that beautiful spiral staircases are always varnished.

For the steps of the porch, it is good to use drying oil and paint in several layers. Also, to prevent their wear and tear and extend the life of the tree, it is desirable to protect it with a special moisture and abrasion resistant non-slip coating. It will not be superfluous for the porch to equip a visor above it to protect it from snow and rain. Both in the photo and in life, such visors give the design even greater completeness and unity of style.

We hope that the material presented has convinced you that the independent production of wooden stairs is not such a complicated process. If the article interested you, please rate or comment on it in the fields below.

DIY wooden staircase: photo, video, drawing, calculation

A wooden staircase, created with your own hands, will bring great satisfaction. Stock up on a good drawing and follow our instructions.

How to make a wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands

One-story buildings in the private sector are built only to support economic activities, and are used as ancillary buildings. A full-fledged residential building with at least 2 floors. Therefore, one cannot do without such a functional element as a staircase to the second floor.

The problem of moving from one level to another can be solved simply - buy a ready-made kit and install it yourself.

Its cost starts from about 33,000 rubles (pine, 14 steps, a turning staircase with two spans). Do-it-yourself installation is easy. The problem is different - how will it fit into the interior, will it be necessary to adjust individual elements or partially reconstruct the 1st floor?

Many firms provide services for the manufacture of kits according to customer drawings, but as practice shows, such stairs cost 1.5 times more. That is why most often the most acceptable option is to make a wooden staircase with your own hands, from scratch.

How to do it, what to pay attention to - this article is devoted to this.

Terminology

Before proceeding to consider design features, it is necessary to "decipher" some specific definitions. The main elements are shown in the diagrams.

Step. Its horizontal part is called a tread, the vertical (it may not be) - a riser.
Support beams. If the steps are adjacent to them with end parts, then this is a bowstring. If they are "superimposed" on the beam and their edges protrude beyond it, then it is called a kosour.
Railing supports. They are often called balusters or pillars. For screw construction, the term rack is used.
Fasteners. In some types of stairs, the steps are fixed directly on the adjoining wall with special bolts - bolts.

Types of staircase designs

For self-manufacturing the simplest are marching. For a private house, they are installed with one or two spans. Spiral stairs for self assembly much more complicated (more on that here). In addition, the production of the necessary calculations for them has its own specifics.

Features of calculating the parameters of the stairs

The following are general recommendations that are only desirable to focus on when designing an internal staircase. Since all houses (and premises) differ in architecture, dimensions, layout, there can be no single template in principle.

The optimal slope of the spans is in the range from 35 to 450. It is much more difficult to climb the steeper stairs (especially for people with disabilities, the elderly or small children). Yes, and carrying large, heavy things from floor to floor will also be complicated.

A flatter design is inconvenient in that more space will be needed for its installation, as the length of each span will increase. And which particular angle to choose is at the discretion of the owner.

It is unlikely that anyone in a private house will move from floor to floor as part of a “group of comrades”, therefore, when drawing up a diagram, it is advisable to focus on the dimensions of one person. A staircase with a width of about 1.2 - 1.5 m for a private house is quite an acceptable option. And walking on it, and even carrying furniture will be quite convenient.

Step parameters

Tread. A person’s foot should completely fit on it (based on the 45th size), so the optimal width of the step is within 250 - 300 mm.
Riser. In order to make it convenient for people of any height and age to move, its height is taken within 150 - 200 mm. Quite enough, regardless of the design.

On a note! All indicated dimensions are exactly the same for each step of one staircase. Otherwise, there is no need to talk about the convenience of moving.

Ladder height

Defined as distance from floor covering the lower floor to the ceiling + ceiling thickness. For example, 270 + 40 - 310 (cm).

Number of steps

The height of the structure (310) is divided by the sum of the riser value and the thickness of the tread board, after which it is rounded up to a whole value (up). For example, if "magpie" is used, then 20 + 4 = 24 cm.

Total - 310: 24 = 13 (steps).

Recommendation - for stairs with more than 18 steps and a steepness of 450, special platforms should be installed. Depending on the purpose, they are called differently - rotary, viewing, intermediate. Consequently, the staircase itself will already consist of separate flights (flights). They can be of the same type, or made according to different schemes, since the site is not necessarily located exactly in the center of the structure.

Ladder length

It is easy to determine it, knowing the number of steps and the size of each tread. These values are multiplied. If the steps have protrusions, then they are not taken into account.

Sometimes calculations show that such a design "does not fit" in a particular room. In such cases, either the number of marches is increased, or the so-called winder (turning) steps are equipped.

Height of spans relative to the floor

It is necessary to focus on the height of a person + a small margin. The design is considered optimal, in which the distance between the extreme steps and the ceiling is at least 2 m. Otherwise, a tall person at the end of the span will have to bend his head.

In most cases, a wood species such as pine is chosen. It is inexpensive, but it is not characterized by durability. Larch - in many ways preferable. The presence of a special resin in its structure makes the material even stronger when absorbing moisture. And this is important for a home staircase, given the specifics of its operation. All other options, for example, oak, cedar, maple and a number of others, cannot be called budget.

Before you start working with wood, it must be properly dried. Further shrinkage of the material (including twisting) will cause the staircase to literally fall apart.

The order of work on the installation of stairs

Consider the simplest example - single-flight stairs. This option can be considered basic, since the algorithm of actions is the same, regardless of the number of spans.

Preparation of structural elements

Kosoura. The main requirement is that they must be absolutely identical. The board is only solid, without defects, not less than "forty". Accordingly, cuts are made under the steps in advance.
Steps. The edges must be rounded, as sharp edges increase the risk of injury. The board is selected absolutely flat, carefully processed (polished). The length is calculated so that their edges protrude beyond the stringers by no more than 2 - 4 cm. Thickness - in the range of 300 - 400 mm.
Riser. They do not experience significant load, since it falls mainly on the support beams. In order not to increase total weight span, a board of 15 is enough for them.

Tip - it is better not to install risers for a private house, since it is much more difficult to clean on a staircase of this (closed) type.

Handrails, balusters. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make them on your own so that the staircase becomes not only a means of transportation, but also a decoration of the house. Therefore, these structural elements should either be purchased in a store or ordered in a workshop.

Ladder assembly

Wall marking

According to the installation diagram and drawing.

Fastening of support beams (stringers)

The fixation of the upper part of the march is done in different ways (as convenient). Option number 1 - cuts are made in the floor beam. Option number 2 - metal stops are used, which are fixed on the beam with anchors. In any case, the junction of structural elements should be as reliable as possible.

To fix the bottom of the stringers, a support beam is mounted on the floor. To the wall - fixation on anchor bolts.

Installation of risers

If they are mounted, then they are screwed to the stringers.

Laying steps

They are fixed both on the support beams and on the risers (at least at one point, in the center).

For the convenience of work, the installation of steps begins from the bottom. The options are shown in the diagram.

Installation of balusters

First of all, the extreme ones are fixed - above and below the march. A “bowstring” is stretched between them, focusing on which, you can mount the rest of the racks.

Handrail Installation

They are fixed on each of the racks, which are located on the march. They can be made from almost any material - metal, plastic, and not just wood.

The article outlines only the general procedure and gives basic recommendations. Having decided on the specific design of the stairs, you should study all the available material on this topic, since for different models there are some nuances and installation, and calculations of individual constituent parts. For example, rotary steps, which can be either rectangular or segmental.

You can watch a video instruction for making a wooden staircase:

But the general rules of work are described in detail, and the author hopes that this article will help the reader in the matter of self-design. Good luck!

How to build a wooden staircase to the second floor - manufacturing technology - diagram and video

Modern private country houses grow like mushrooms, or rather like pines or even sequoias. Not uncommon today country houses two or even three floors. And there are houses with an attic. Not to mention duplex apartments. In order to go upstairs you need stairs or an elevator. The latter, of course, is pampering, although there is a place to be. We will talk about how to make a wooden staircase on your own.

It can be assumed that this is not so difficult, but in reality such work has its own subtleties and requires knowledge of the matter. After all, not just any staircase is needed, but such a structure that will be beautiful, durable and so safe that it can be safely operated for a long time.

How to make a wooden staircase on your own

Stairs for country house, cottages or cottages are often made of wood. Right choice durable wood is a guarantee that the ladder will stand for a long time. At the same time, the environmental component is of no small importance.

Types and types of staircase designs for a private house

The choice of stairs is often limited by the available space for its device, and of course the budget. But, it is better to be guided by the convenience of location and aesthetic preferences. Among the existing designs of wooden stairs, the most common are mid-flight and spiral.

Spiral stairs

A spiral wooden staircase to the second floor of a private house This option is convenient when space is limited. Such a ladder can be placed on a heel of 1.5 meters. True, it can only be used to move up or down one person. It will no longer be possible to lift something large, for example, furniture.

In addition, the wooden spiral staircase has a complex structure, and its construction requires more labor.

At the same time, many nuances have to be taken into account: to check the structure for strength, first of all, the load-bearing racks must be reliable.

The complexity of the design is due to the fact that the main details have to be calculated taking into account all the design features.

This job is best handled by experienced professionals. It is difficult to do it yourself without special skills and tools.

Marching stairs

Wooden stairs for a house can be single-flight, two-flight, three-flight and multi-flight (each of them is used in certain conditions, which depend on the number of storeys and area of the building).

Marching stairs are divided into straight and rotary according to their orientation. They can be located along the wall or as an independent structure in the middle of the room.

It is worth noting that the device of a straight staircase assumes the presence of sufficient free space, as it takes up a lot of space. In general, this type of construction is much simpler in terms of self-implementation compared to the screw version.

Straight wooden staircase

If the number of steps is more than 10, it is recommended to divide the staircase into two parts, connecting them together with an intermediate platform. If necessary and save space (this depends on the characteristics of the room), the staircase can go up from the intermediate platform with a turn, the so-called staircase with turning steps (trapezoidal steps, which are also called winders).

A staircase with a 90 degree turn is called a quarter-turn. The half turn ladder has a 180 degree turn angle.

When the rotation is 360 degrees, then this is already a variant of a circular or spiral staircase. Although, in principle, this is an ordinary marching staircase with winder steps and a turn of * degrees.

Swivel staircase made of wood

Combined stairs

Depending on the layout and design of the house, it is possible to install a combined staircase structure, which will consist of two or more types of stairs. For example, a mid-flight staircase on a certain span is complemented by a screw element supported by bowstrings or stringers. Of course, such a design is very complex and requires precise calculations.

Types of wooden stairs

Before choosing one or another design, you should sensibly evaluate your capabilities. It is better to let there be a simpler straight staircase, but reliable and made of quality materials, than an intricate spiral or combined one, for the construction of which there may not be enough money or effort.

And of course, space is of decisive importance, so that later it does not turn out that the stairs will take away more than half of the house.

Start with measurements and calculations. Draw a drawing or order from specialists. You can even create a 3D model of the future staircase and visually see the location in your layout.

Interfloor wooden stairs - selection of components and load-bearing elements

It is possible that the staircase you are creating will be your first experience, then the best choice there will be a straight staircase. This option is easy to manufacture, its installation and installation is also not very complicated, and the result will meet all the basic requirements for strength, convenience and durability.

Making wooden stairs with your own hands

Making wooden stairs with your own hands is possible with the appropriate tools, quality lumber and experience.

Material for the construction of stairs:

Bars for steps, the thickness of which must be at least 40 mm.
Boards of approximately the same width and size provided by the project.
Beams for tread 30-40 mm.
Beams for risers not less than 30 mm.
Beam for stringers or bowstrings 50x250 mm.
Handrails, railings and balusters can be made independently, but it is better to buy ready-made ones.
Stainless steel screws are used for fastening.

The drawings show drawings of wooden stairs

Structural elements wooden stairs Scheme of the device of a wooden staircase to the second floor Scheme - ways of fastening the bowstring of a wooden staircase Scheme - marking the stringer of a wooden staircase Drawing of a wooden staircase to the 2nd floor of the house Parameters of a wooden staircase

Do-it-yourself wooden staircase installation:

As mentioned above, you first need to think over the design, calculate the number of steps and determine the dimensions of the stairs (width, length), you can download a finished drawing on the Internet or make a simple circuit on one's own.
A standard march can be built with the support of the steps on the bowstrings that run from its two sides. Another mounting option involves the support of the steps on the stringers, which are beams located at the bottom of the steps.
All steps are first connected to the bowstrings, then the structure is reinforced with supporting bars, which are placed under the stairs at an equal distance from each other. With a sufficiently high angle of inclination of the march, there is no need for bars, although it is still desirable to install them to guarantee safety.
The bottom and top of the string should be attached to the walls, floor or ceiling.

Fixing stairs to stringers

The operational and decorative qualities of a wooden staircase, its ability to withstand moisture and other influences, for example, wood pests, are significantly increased when it is treated with a special varnish, stain. Such a staircase will not lose its original shape for a long time. appearance and reliability.

How to make a wooden staircase with your own hands - video instruction

Photos of wooden stairs for the house

Oak staircase with carved railings Turning wooden staircase Wooden staircase with a turn for a country house Spiral wooden staircase for summer cottage How to make a wooden staircase to the second floor