Laying soft tiles in winter. Instructions for laying bituminous tiles Features of installation of bituminous tiles

Bituminous tiles (it is also called flexible tiles) have recently become more and more popular. This is due to its high technical and operational qualities, bituminous tiles are quite light, durable, thanks to their flexibility, they can easily be used on a roof of any configuration. Its advantages should also include the fact that the minimum service life is at least 30-35 years, and some manufacturers guarantee up to half a century of operation. shingles.

From the point of view of operation, it is in no way inferior to metal tiles, due to its “softness” it has good soundproofing characteristics. The ease of installation also speaks in favor of choosing bituminous tiles; you can lay bituminous tiles with your own hands. Due to the variety of colors you can choose suitable option for any roof.

What is shingles made of?

As a rule, durable fiberglass is the basis of flexible tiles, on both sides of it there are layers of improved bitumen. On the front surface of the bituminous tile, a layer of powder from mineral material is arranged (it performs rather an aesthetic role), and microscopic particles of mineral material also reduce rain noise.

On the underside of sheets of flexible tiles there is a self-adhesive layer and a protective film, which is removed immediately before laying the sheet.

What tools and materials will be needed for the installation of shingles

In order to lay bituminous tiles with your own hands you will need:

sealant;
special mastic on a bitumen basis;
lining carpet;

Instead of a special lining waterproofing carpet, you can also use a regular roofing material.

the tile itself in the required quantity;
galvanized roofing nails with a wide head;
ventilation elements (usually purchased with tiles);
ridge-cornice tiles;

shaped elements to strengthen the cornice and the end of the roof;

passing elements;
hammer;
metal scissors;
a small trowel for applying bituminous mastic;
tile cutting knife

When calculating the required number of tiles, it must be remembered that the consumption indicated on the pack corresponds to the area of the roof slope at an angle of 45 °.

Technology of laying bituminous tiles

The main disadvantage of flexible tiles can be called increased demand to the evenness of the base. Due to the fact that the bituminous tile material is quite soft and relatively thin, even a slight unevenness will stand out against the background of the roof, and leaks may also form in this place. Therefore, for the installation of a base for flexible tiles, it is recommended to use only dried edged boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.

Builders most often prefer oriented strand boards.

After the installation of a flat base, you can proceed directly to laying bituminous tiles.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to lay the lining carpet. Depending on the steepness of the slope, it is arranged either on the entire roof, or only in the most critical places in terms of water resistance - on skates, overhangs and valleys. If the slope of the roof slope exceeds 18°, then a continuous underlayment can be dispensed with.

Laying shingles directly on concrete is prohibited.

It is desirable that the laying of the waterproofing carpet proceed in a horizontal direction, starting from the bottom of the slope, overlapping the strips of waterproofing material - 10 - 15 cm. It can also be installed in the longitudinal direction, but from the point of view of waterproofing, this option is worse. Particular attention should be paid to the valley carpet, it is desirable to make it from whole piece waterproofing material, without joints.

The cornice and end part of the roof should be reinforced with special shaped elements (metal strips). They must be mounted overlapping with an overlap of up to 5 cm. The planks are attached to the base with nails, the distance between them is up to 12 cm.

Even before laying the shingles, you need to think about fixing the gutter. Sometimes a wooden plank is nailed for this, to which the gutter is attached.

After strengthening the cornice and the frontal part of the roof, they begin to install the tiles. It is better to mix sheets from several packs beforehand. The fact is that even the tiles of the same batch may differ in color, mixing the sheets will make this difference in shades imperceptible.

Do-it-yourself installation of bituminous tiles begins with the fact that the eaves and ridge tiles are laid on the cornice overhang. It can be purchased separately or you can use ordinary flexible tiles for this, having previously cut off the petals from it.

Then proceed to laying the main part of the tile. As a rule, hollows are completely lined with tiles before laying the main part. You can do this in parallel with laying the tiles on the slopes, but in this case, in the hollow, the tiles should be ahead of the tiles on the slope by 2-3 rows. Each subsequent sheet in the hollow is glued to the previous one (the overlap is 10 cm).

Along the edge of the roof, the tiles are carefully smeared with mastic (a strip 10 cm wide) and glued to the base. This helps to protect the roof from slanting rain. It is recommended to start laying shingles from the middle or lower corner of the roof slope. Starting from 3-4 rows, you need to pay attention to the preservation of the geometric pattern; to control the correct laying, the roof is pre-marked or a thread mooring is used.

For the installation of pipes, it is recommended to use special passage elements, they can be purchased together with the tiles. In this case, the passage element is nailed to the roof with galvanized nails, the area around it is smeared with mastic, an appropriate cut is made in the tile and it is glued around the pipe.

Separately, it is worth considering the adjoining of tiles to brick pipes or vertical walls. In this case, a wooden triangular plank is installed between the wall and the base, to which a flexible tile is attached). To provide waterproofing from above to brick wall(pipe) a waterproofing roll material is attached using a metal strip (the space between the strip and brick wall filled with sealant).

The overlap should normally be at least 30 cm, but in cold climates at least 70 cm.

The technology of laying bituminous tiles also provides for the device ridge aerator. First, you need to cut the ridge, install the aerator itself on the resulting device, and glue bituminous tiles on top of it.

Flexible (or bituminous) tiles are the undisputed leader among commonly used materials for roofing. It is used in the field of low-rise construction, it is perfect for decorating the roofs of residential buildings and various other buildings. Bituminous tiles, the laying technology of which is quite simple, has a lot of advantages due to its operational characteristics. Consider how the process of decorating the roof with this material takes place, whether it is complicated or whether you can still do the work yourself without the involvement of specialists.

The bituminous tile is rather soft roofing material, but at the same time strong and durable. It is made on the basis of fiberglass, which is covered on both sides with a layer created on the basis of bitumen. Its outer side - the front - usually has a special dressing made from mineral chips. Its function is to provide protection from external influences such as precipitation and wind. In addition, due to this dressing, bituminous tiles acquire a rather beautiful appearance.

The bottom layer of material covers a sticky layer, which makes it easy to stick to the prepared substrate. It helps the tile withstand the onslaught of bad weather, and also increases its tightness.

On a note! For the first time, shingles entered the building materials market at the beginning of the 20th century. It appeared in America thanks to Henry Reynolds, a specialist at Grand Rapids. By the middle of the 20th century, about half of all low-rise buildings in the United States were covered with this roofing material.

The service life of bituminous shingles, if it was laid correctly and operated in compliance with all norms, is at least 30 years. It can be used on any roofs, including those with complex geometric shapes. The material does not give additional load on the rafters or the foundation, it is strong enough, not inferior in quality to the usual metal tiles. In addition, its installation is simple, and a large selection of colors / shapes allows you to match it to any style of home.

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What is important to consider?

So, the installation of this material is quite simple and understandable even for beginners. However, in any case, it implies compliance with certain norms and rules, therefore, before starting with them, installation work it's important to get to know each other. So, what is important to remember when laying shingles:

basis for such roofing should be smooth, carefully leveled, sufficiently rigid and solid;
the roof must have excellent ventilation;
when laying, it is important to observe temperature regime, and therefore such a coating is recommended to be laid in the summer. The temperature outside should not be less than +5 degrees;

On a note! Installation of this type of tile can also be carried out at a lower temperature, however, in this case, the material must be supplied to the roof from a warm room and must not be stored before work begins outside. The adhesive layer in cold weather must be warmed up with a hair dryer before laying.

the terms of work directly depend on the size of the roof, the experience of the master and the type of material. On average, the installation of bituminous tiles takes about 2-40 days. In the first case, the time indicator is optimal for a simple roof with two slopes. How harder roof, the longer it will take to fiddle with laying the coating;
the angle of the roof slope, where bituminous tiles are mounted, can vary from 10 to 90 degrees.

GOST 32806-2014. The tile is bituminous. Are common specifications. Download file (click on the link to open the PDF file in a new window).

Prices for shingles

The right foundation is the key to success

As mentioned above, bituminous tiles are very demanding on the quality of the base on which they are laid. It should be solid and carefully aligned. The materials for its creation can be different - plywood, wood, OSB boards, etc. It is important to remember that when laying boards or sheets of material, a small gap is always left between them. It will provide the possibility of compensatory expansion when the material increases in size under the influence of humidity or temperature. Otherwise (if there are no gaps), the roof will go in waves. The sheets are fastened to the crate using self-tapping screws or nails - the main thing is that their hats are recessed into the material.

Attention! The greater the step between the individual boards of the crate on which the sheets are laid, the thicker the material should be.

Table. The dependence of the thickness of the material on the step of the crate.

Step between individual elements of the crate, mm	Boards, thickness in mm	Plywood, thickness in mm	OSB board, thickness in mm
600	20	12	12
900	23	18	18
1200	30	21	21
1500	37	27	27

Ventilation is also of great importance. These should be air vents, openings for the possibility of fresh air entering them, openings for air to escape from under the roof.

Preparing for installation

For installation work soft tiles you will need the following tools:

metal scissors;
hammer;
screwdriver;
small spatula;
construction dryer.

Among the materials, bituminous tiles themselves are useful, as well as mastic for creating sealed joints, self-tapping screws, roofing fasteners, lining carpet or roofing material, material for steam, hydro and thermal insulation, double-sided adhesive tape.

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The process of installing shingles

The installation technology of this type of tile is known to many masters, as it has long come into use and is used quite often. Installation involves several stages of work - this is the flooring of the lining carpet, installation eaves plank, laying directly the shingles themselves, the design of the roof ridge and pipes.

Installation of the cornice overhang

Step 1. The plank is applied to the edge of the blood, while a small protrusion - 10 cm - is displayed beyond the border of the roof. This is necessary for the correct docking of the part with the gable plank. These elements are required to protect the roof from external factors.

Step 2 The eaves plank is fixed in place with roofing nails in 15 cm increments, which are driven in in a checkerboard pattern. The individual elements of the plank are necessarily connected with an overlap, which should be equal to at least 10-15 cm.

Strap fastening step - 15 cm

Step 4 The lower and upper edges of the plank are bent along the pediment using a hammer. Better to use a rubber mallet. Curved edges are additionally fixed with a roofing nail.

Underlay installation

The lining carpet will provide not only a good surface for laying shingles, but also additional waterproofing of the roof.

Step 1. The self-adhesive underlayment carpet is laid parallel to the eaves strip of the roof with a plant on it, while about 2-3 cm should remain until the edge of the eaves strip. The strips are glued parallel to the eaves strip so that subsequent pieces of material overlap the previously laid ones. The overlap is at least 10 cm. The strips of material are glued from bottom to top on the surface of the base - this way it will be possible to achieve better protection of the roof from leaks. The roll is gently rolled out, and the protective film from under it is gradually removed.

Step 2 In the area where the chimney pipe is located, the lining carpet is cut in accordance with its shape and glued with a small factory on it.

Attention! The underlayment carpet is required for laying in the roof valley and on the cornice overhang. If the angle of the roof slope is 18 or more degrees, then the rest of the surface of the base can not be covered with it. If the slope angle is 12-18 degrees, then the entire base will have to be closed, otherwise the roof will leak.

Step 3 Above the location of the self-adhesive carpet, a mechanically fixed carpet can be used. It is rolled out on the surface of the roof so that its individual strips are overlapped by 15 cm, the same overlap is observed when laying the edge of the material on a self-adhesive carpet that was previously laid.

Carpet end overlap - 15 cm

Step 4 The overlap of the carpet with mechanical fixation on the self-adhesive carpet is made with the gluing of a thermoactive strip. It will provide reliable sealing of joints.

Step 5 The underlayment is fixed using nails and a hammer. It is desirable that the fasteners have a wide cap. Step - 20 cm.

Step 6 All overlaps between the segments of the lining carpet are smeared with a thin layer of bituminous mastic to improve the sealing of the joints. It is most convenient to apply mastic with a metal spatula. The thickness of the composition layer should not exceed 1 mm.

Step 7 After laying the lining carpets, the gable of the roof is closed with a gable strip.

Step 8 The edge of the plank is cut to the shape of the roof.

Step 9 Fixation of the gable plank is carried out with nails hammered in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 15 cm.

Step 10 A lining carpet is also laid in the valley area so that it extends 50 cm from the place of the axial part of the valley to each side of the roof.

Prices for lining carpets

Carpet lining

Then one of the most important stages of roofing begins - the installation of the tiles themselves. Before starting work, it is recommended to apply markings that will allow you to lay the material neatly and evenly. This is especially important if the roof geometry has an unusual shape.

Step 1. The first row of tiles is mounted at a distance of 15 mm from the bend of the eaves. Before laying, the corner of the first sheet of tiles is trimmed - this is necessary to repel rainwater.

Step 2 On the wrong side of the tiles, which will be located in the first row, a thin layer of mastic is applied along the edge. The composition is also applied to the part that will lie on the gable bar.

Step 3 The tile smeared with bituminous mastic is glued to the place chosen for it. At the same time, it is important to leave 1.5 cm free to the edges of the gable and cornice strips. This is necessary for proper and efficient water drainage.

Step 4 The tiles are nailed with special roofing nails, which are equipped with a wide hat. The first nail is hammered at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the material.

Step 5 Each tile shingle is fastened with 5 nails, of which 2 are hammered along the edges, the rest are evenly distributed in the middle of the shingle.

Step 6 In places of adjunction to the gable part of the roof, each tile in subsequent rows is smeared with bituminous mastic.

Step 7 The second row of shingles must be laid with shingles offset relative to the first. The offset can be 15-85 cm. The second row of tiles is laid with an overlap on the first, previously laid.

Step 8 A special valley carpet is laid in the place of the valley. The material is rolled out so as to cover the entire valley with itself. On the reverse side, the edges of the material are smeared with mastic at a distance of 10 cm from the edge.

Step 9 Additional fixation of the carpet is made using nails. They are clogged around the perimeter in increments of 20-25 cm.

Step 10 In the valley area, by analogy with conventional slopes, bituminous tiles are also mounted.

Step 11 Along the axis of the valley, the tiles are cut at a distance of about 10 cm using a sharp knife.

Step 12 At the edges, the tiles along the axis of the valley are also trimmed (corners are cut) to repel rainwater. Also, each shingle is smeared with mastic.

Step 13 The other part of the valley is formed in the same way. Thanks to this design, a gutter 10-15 cm wide is formed, along which water from the roof will easily drain into the drain.

Step 14 The edge of the roof (that is, its outer fracture) is made using ridge-cornice tiles. Several shingles are broken into separate elements.

Step 15 The resulting elements have a self-adhesive strip on the reverse side. They are laid sticky side down on the roof edge overlapping each other. The overlap is 3-5 cm. Also, the petals are additionally fixed with nails on each side of the slope - 2 nails per slope. The ridge of the roof is formed in the same way.

Video - Installation of flexible tiles

Installing roll tiles

Rolled tiles are in demand due to the simplicity and ease of installation, as well as the high speed of work. It is also mounted on a perfectly flat solid base.

Step 1. The installation of the eaves and gable strips is carried out by analogy with the previous instructions.

Step 2 To improve adhesion, the surface is treated with a primer.

Step 3 Roll tiles are recommended to be mounted vertically relative to the ridge or eaves of the roof. First of all, the roll is rolled out and a piece of the required length is cut off from it, equal to the length of the roof slope. It is most convenient to cut using a long metal ruler or rule.

Step 4 The resulting segment is tried on in place.

Step 5 To make installation easier, a protective film is peeled off from the upper part of the inside and the rolled tiles are glued to the base in this place.

Step 6 Cornice and gable strips in places where rolled tiles will be laid on them are smeared with mastic.

Step 7 The protective film from under the tile is pulled out, at this moment the tile is pressed against the base.

Step 8 The material is additionally fixed on the base with roofing nails.

Step 9 Similarly, the installation of rolled tiles is carried out in the valley part of the roof.

Step 10 Excess material at the edges is trimmed in accordance with the shape of the roof.

Step 11 In the lower part of the valley, when cutting off excess material, a small curly cut is left, which will ensure uniform and efficient removal of water from the roof.

Step 12 Along the perimeter, the material is pierced with nails. This will additionally fix it in the valley. Step - 15-20 cm.

Step 13 A groove is formed from the material. To do this, another piece of rolled tiles is overlapped on the previously laid segment in the valley.

Step 14 At the top, it is fixed with nails.

Step 15 The next segment is tried on in place. At this point, it is important to ensure that the pattern on the individual segments of the material matches.

Step 16 A protective tape is peeled off from the edge of the rolled tile, the material is pierced along the edge with nails. From the axis of the valley, the last nail is hammered no closer than at a distance of 30 cm.

Step 17 The next piece of material is overlapped on the previously laid one. The protective film is carefully removed from this part.

Step 18 After the valley is completed, the excess roll tiles are cut off. A board is placed under the material layer, which will protect the lower layer from cuts. The distance from the undercut to the axis of the valley should not exceed 7.5 cm.

Step 19 The overlap must be smeared with mastic to increase the tightness index.

Chimney pattern

Step 22 Complex junctions are additionally smeared with mastic.

Step 23 On ribs and skates, simple patterns are fixed mechanically, that is, using nails.

Step 24 The next elements of the tile overlap the nails of the previously laid pieces.

In this way, you can quickly and beautifully decorate the roof of any small building. Bituminous tiles will provide good waterproofing of the roof and give it an original look.

Video - Installation of flexible roll roofing (tiles)

In order for the roof covering to last as long as possible, the laying of soft tiles must be carried out in accordance with the installation rules developed for this material. Each manufacturer has their own installation instructions, but in general, the basic installation rules are the same.

Installation conditions

Installation instructions for bitumen tiles regulate the temperature regime for working with the material. Laying is recommended to be carried out at an air temperature above +5 °C. Shingles - the elements that make up a flexible tiled roof, are connected to the surface of the base not only with metal fasteners, but also thanks to a special self-adhesive layer on the underside. High adhesion and tightness of the mounted coating is ensured by heating from sunlight - the shingles are reliably soldered to the base and to each other.

If the installation of shingles is carried out in cool weather, the adhesion of the sheets may not be strong enough. To heat the adhesive layer of the shingle, you can use a hot-air burner (building hair dryer). It is also practiced laying material on bituminous mastic. But there may be difficulties with the installation of the ridge coating, since the material needs to be bent. In cold weather, bituminous shingles become more rigid and brittle, and in the process of giving the shingle the desired shape, microcracks may appear in the material.

If roofing work has to be carried out in cool weather, the packages with tiles should be kept in a warm, closed room for about a day.

If it is necessary to lay the roofing decking from bituminous piece material in frost, a small enclosed space is arranged on the roof of the structure - a rack frame covered with polyethylene film is mounted. Heat guns are used to create the required temperature inside a limited volume.

Base for roofing

Under the base for the installation of bituminous piece roofing is meant a truss system with a continuous crate. To ensure the proper functioning of the roofing cake, a vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the inside of the rafter legs. Insulation is laid on the outside and fastened diffusion membrane, which removes moisture from the heat-insulating layer and does not let it inside. Along the rafter legs, the slats of the counter-lattice are stuffed over the membrane.

Laying soft tiles requires an even solid base made of edged or tongue-and-groove boards or sheet materials - OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood. Humidity of the material for the crate should not exceed 20%.

Sheet material is laid with the long side parallel to the eaves. Boards must span at least two runs and be attached to each rafter leg. The joining of the crate elements is carried out on a support, while the joints of adjacent rows of the crate should be located on different supports.

It is important to leave a deformation seam between the elements of the crate - wood materials change their linear dimensions under the influence of temperature and moisture.

Roofing cake, which includes shingles, should be well ventilated. This will significantly reduce the formation of ice on the surface in winter, as the transfer of heat from the premises of the house to the roofing will decrease. In summer, the ventilation gap, the height of which should be at least 5 cm, reduces the temperature inside the roofing pie, as a result of which the attic room overheats less. In order for air circulation to be sufficient to remove moisture from the inside of the roof, special holes are left in the lower part of the roof (in the filing of overhangs), and an exhaust duct is equipped in the ridge.

Lining layer

Installation of flexible tiles requires the use of a special lining material. Piece bituminous coating is used on pitched roofs with a slope angle of at least 12 °. If the slope of the slopes is 12-30 °, a waterproofing lining is attached to the entire surface of the continuous crate. A slope angle of more than 30° requires the installation of waterproofing material in the valleys, along the eaves, above the chimney pipes and ventilation slopes, at the junction of the roof to the walls, around the attic windows. This allows you to reliably protect places where there is a high probability of accumulation of snow and ice.

The principle of installation of the lining layer depends on its features. The composite material of polymer film and bituminous filler is self-adhesive: it is carefully laid on the crate and rolled to ensure tight adhesion and remove possible bubbles. Polyester waterproofing material is laid using bituminous mastic and is additionally fastened in the upper and side parts with a 20 cm spacing with nails with wide flat heads, which are then treated with mastic. The lining layer is formed from strips roll material laid parallel to the eaves. Longitudinal overlap should be 100 mm, transverse - 200 mm.

The technology of laying soft tiles provides for certain principles for installing the lining in places of probable leaks. The width of the waterproofing layer is:

for valleys - 500 mm from its axis in each direction;
for the ridge - 250 mm each;
for end and cornice overhangs - 400 mm.

To ensure the tightness of the overlap places, they are coated with bituminous mastic.

Mounting planks

To protect the crate from rain moisture, gable and cornice strips are mounted. Installation of cornice strips (droppers) is performed on top of the lining layer. The instruction requires the installation of elements with an overlap of at least 200 mm. Fasteners should be arranged in a zigzag (staggered pattern) with a step of 10 cm. Gable strips are designed for the ends of roof slopes. Fastening is also carried out using roofing nails installed in 10 cm increments.

The waterproofing carpet of the valley is laid after the installation of the planks on the slopes. The color of the carpet is selected taking into account the color of the shingles. The material is fixed with nails in 10 cm increments. If there are vertical structures on the roof slopes, a waterproofing coating is also laid around them.

If the arrangement of the chimney passage through the roof is planned to be carried out after the installation of the finish coating, when planning the roof, the place where it will be located should be noted.

How to properly prepare the roofing system for the installation of soft tiles can be found in the thematic video.

Installation of roofing material

First of all, eaves tiles are laid - a special element of a soft piece roof. Not all manufacturers offer special tiles for the cornice overhang. In this case, it is required to use a strip of material that is cut out from an ordinary shingle - the petals are cut from it. Stepping back from the cornice overhang 2 cm, the resulting elements are glued.

Before starting installation on the roof, markings must be applied. The chalk lines indicating the arrangement of the rows of material make it possible to lay the shingles strictly parallel to the eaves. The vertical line indicates the middle of the slope. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, the coating is mounted from bituminous tiles, taken at random from several packs. This allows you to level the differences in the shades of the material.

Laying of shingles starts from the middle of the overhang of the eaves - the shingles are mounted to the right and left of the first one. The protective film from the elements of the roofing is removed immediately before installation. The shingles are pressed tightly against the base, and then additionally secured with roofing nails driven in above the groove: 4 pieces for each shingle.

If the angle of the roof slope exceeds 45°, it is recommended to use 6 nails each for fastening curly bituminous tiles.

The first row of shingles is located in such a way that their lower edge is 10-15 mm higher than the lower edge of the cornice shingles. Laying is carried out with the expectation that the petals of the bituminous elements cover the joints of the eaves shingles. The petals of subsequent rows with their tip should be above the cutouts of the previous layer or at their level. In places where the shingles adjoin the gable strips, the material is cut off along the edge of the roof, the edges are glued using bituminous mastic, and they must be smeared by 10 cm.

In order not to damage the bottom layer of the tile, when cutting off excess material, place a small plank or piece of plywood under its edge.

Arrangement of the valley

Installation of tiles requires a special approach to creating a reliable and durable construction valleys. Before laying ordinary tiles, a waterproofing lining is mounted under the valley, to which the flexible tiles are melted with a hot air gun or fixed using bitumen-polymer mastic.

Work on the arrangement of the valley should begin with a slope with a more gentle angle of inclination or a slope with a shorter length.

On the slope opposite the chosen one, parallel to the axis of the valley, at a distance of 30 cm from it, a line should be drawn. The shingles that reach this line from the first slope (with an overlap of the valley axis) are cut along the line and fixed with mastic or melted with a hot air gun. All shingles coming from a gentle (or short) slope are mounted in this way. Then a line is drawn on this slope, parallel to the axis of the valley and 10 cm from it. The shingles that reach the line from the side of the opposite slope are cut exactly along the line, and their upper corners should be cut to approximately 60 °.

Roofing nails can be used at a distance of at least 30 cm from the axis of the valley. Therefore, when arranging it, the material should be glued or welded.

Ridge coating

Laying of the ridge coating is carried out after the installation of ordinary tiles. For these purposes, cornice elements can be used. In other cases, the material is cut from ordinary shingles:

if the shingle petals are rectangular, they are cut off, and the remaining wide strip is mounted on the ridge;
the shingles that form a pattern of hexagons during laying are cut into hexagonal fragments, from which the ridge coating is made.

To simplify and secure work with the roof ridge, scaffolds should be mounted.

Straight strips are heated with a hot air gun, bent along the axis and laid on the ridge with an overlap of 50 mm. Fixation of each strip is carried out on 4 nails.

Everyone knows that styling roofing material will have a positive end result only if you strictly follow the installation instructions and follow the recommendations of specialists. This applies to all roof coverings, including shingles. And if you decide to use this particular material to cover the roof of your own house, then you will have to make sure that the installation instructions for the duration of the work become a talmut for you.

Stages of roofing with bituminous tiles

Immediately make a reservation that bituminous tiles can be used on roofs, the slope angle of which will be at least 11.5 °. This is approximately a 1:5 ratio.

Stage number one - preparatory

Preparatory in the sense that it is necessary to prepare a roofing system for bituminous tiles, or rather, a roof sheathing. So, the crate for this roofing material should only be solid, so either moisture-resistant plywood, or OSB boards, or edged tongue and groove boards will act as elements here. As for the boards, they should be very dry, the humidity should not exceed 20%.

It is very important to fix the crate tightly, it must be very strong and fairly even. Bituminous shingles can cover a small difference in the plane with themselves. There are several serious points in the construction of the crate.

The joints of two adjacent elements should be located only on the load-bearing elements of the roof structure. That is, on the rafters.
If boards are used as battens, then one board should span two spans in length, that is, it should lie on three rafter legs.
Again, with regard to the boards. truss system subject to changes in temperature and humidity, so it is necessary to leave a small gap between the boards (2-3 mm). This is compensation for changing the size of the boards.
Be sure such a roof, covered with bituminous tiles, must be equipped ventilation system. Therefore, even at the stage of roof construction, it is necessary to leave gaps at the cornice and at the ridge.

Stage number two - laying the lining layer

What is underlayment carpet? This is a rolled bitumen-polymer material, which is covered with sand on top, and a polyethylene film is fixed on it from below. Laying is done with the sand layer up.

It is necessary to pay attention again to the angle of the slope of the roof slopes. If this is not less than 11.5 °, then there is no point in laying the lining carpet over the entire roof area. The main thing is to close the refractions of the structure and the extreme planes, which are most subject to loads. These are valleys, ridge, cornice, gables and junctions.

Attention! At the corner of the valley, it is necessary to lay the lining roll along, and the places of overlap between two adjacent strips must be glued and fastened with roofing nails.

It is better to apply several strips of glue. But glue cannot be applied under the entire plane of the laid roll.

All other sections are covered with strips of lining material and fastened to the crate with nails. The overlap of elements among themselves - 10 cm.

If the coating of the lining layer is continuous, then laying can be carried out either parallel to the cornice or perpendicular to it. As shown in the photo below.

At the same time, each laid strip must first be laid out, let it straighten out a little, and then pull it slightly with your hands. On the surface of the slope should be a flat surface without bubbles and distortions. The strips are overlapped with an offset of 10-15 cm. Fastening every 10 cm is done with roofing nails.

Now you need to install and fix the metal strips that are mounted along the edges of the roof slope. Namely, at the eaves and ends roofing system. Experts often call these strips cablemen. All metal planks are laid on top of the underlayment with a slight offset along the laying direction. Offset - 20 mm. Planks are fastened either with roofing nails or self-tapping screws. The fastening line is a zigzag, installation points every 10 cm, as shown in the video. The gables have a special shape with a side, which acts as a stiffener and drains rain and melt water.

Attention! If the cornice of your house has a curvilinear shape, then the cornice metal strips are installed in small pieces (segments), forming a curved line. The size of the length of the element must be determined by the roofer himself, who will cover the roof with shingles.

And another very important point. After the entire roof plane has been covered with lining material, another strip is installed at the locations of the valley. Its edge at the cornice should close the installed metal bar, and be glued there. And fastening along the laying in this case is carried out only with nails every 10 cm (see video).

As for the roof ridge, here the lining material is overlapped with respect to different slopes. That is, the upper edge of the lining spreads along one slope, not reaching the edge of the roof by 5 cm. In the second slope, the roll passes through the ridge to the first slope to a depth of 15 cm. It turns out that the overlap creates a continuous layer covering the ridge completely. This is clearly seen in the photo below.

Stage number three - laying shingles

Everything preparatory stages passed, you can go directly to the roofing with shingles. The installation instructions say that you need to start laying from the bottom, moving up, like, in principle, all roofing materials. But shingles have one point regarding the start of this construction operation. So the instruction says that the elements of the roofing are laid end-to-end along the eaves, and overlapped over the rest of the area.

At the same time, the cornice tiles must be laid a little deeper into the slope by about 2-3 cm. Be sure to align the edges of the material strictly along the cornice. To do this with an open line of the cornice is not difficult. The elements are fastened with nails closer to the place where the roofing material is cut (see video). Do not forget to remove the protective polyethylene film from the reverse side before installing the strips of bituminous tiles. The same will apply to the elements that will be installed in the main areas.

It is necessary to start the installation and fastening of sheets (shingles) of bituminous tiles from the middle of the slope, placing them further to the edges of the roof structure. The first row is laid so that it completely covers the cornice row. In this case, the petals of the upper row should cover the perforation of the cornice row. The element should be fastened with four nails, positioning 4-5 cm above the perforation. If the roof slope angle exceeds 45°, it is recommended to add two more nails per shingle and hammer them into the upper corners of the roofing element.

The edge elements of the bituminous tiles that will cover the gable planks must be cut exactly to size. And these edges must be glued. The glue is applied in several strips with a thickness of 1-2 mm. The length of one adhesive strip is at least 5 cm. After that, the glue is smeared over the surface of the lining material with a brush, the edge of the shingle is pressed by hand with little effort. Be sure to fasten the element with a roofing nail.

We return to the valley. On the laid lining material from the corner of the valley on both sides at a distance of 15 cm, two parallel lines are applied on each side. This can be done with a marker using a ruler or dyed thread. You just need to make marks at the lower and upper edges of the valley, connect them together with a thread (pull it well, which will require two people), lift and release, a clear line will be drawn on the surface of the valley material.

The edges of the material must be cut along the lines. It is better to do this with a construction knife, after placing a small board under the material and the blade of the knife. Now shingles of bituminous tiles are laid in place, the places of intersection of the shingle itself and the lining strip are marked on it. The tile element is trimmed along the resulting line. Now the bituminous shingle itself needs to be fixed, for which you need to use glue applied to the lining along the edge of the cut to a width of five millimeters. Be sure to make additional fastening with roofing nails.

The most difficult operation in this entire installation process is the laying of bituminous tiles at the junction (see video). For example, to furnace chimney. There are several positions that you need to know and strictly follow.

It is necessary to install along the entire perimeter of the pipe in the lower part of the junction wooden lath with a triangular section. Size: 50x50 mm. You can use a cornice for these purposes.
The lining carpet is laid over the installed rail.
After that, a row of bituminous tiles is mounted adjacent to vertical plane chimney.
Now, a valley carpet is laid on top of the installed elements. It should cover the pipe itself in height by 30 cm, and in width protrude beyond the junction perimeter by 20 cm.
A metal junction bar is installed on top of the laid valley carpet, which is fastened with self-tapping screws to the surface of the chimney. Be sure to fill under the bar silicone sealant, which will ensure complete sealing of the joint.
On the side of the pipe, ordinary bituminous tiles are laid on top of the valley carpet, and can be laid under it.

And the last element of the roof is the ridge, which is also covered with shingles (see video). To do this, a strip is cut off from the valley carpet, the width of which should be such as to cover the ridge and slopes to a height of 50 mm or more. Fastening is done with nails. After that, shingles are laid on the ridge itself under this element, which are called ridge shingles. In principle, for this you can use cornice elements that are simply cut to the required size. Ridge shingles must be fastened with nails that will be covered by adjacent shingles, because the laying is done with an overlap (5 cm).

Attention! If a hip roof is covered with bituminous tiles, then the installation of ridge panels begins to be carried out from the lower edge of the rib near the eaves. V gable roofs installation starts from the middle of the ridge.

Installation of shingles can be done independently. This material allows you to create a reliable and aesthetic roofing for pitched roof. Recently, soft tiles have attracted the attention of private developers, due to which they are gaining more and more popularity.

Lathing device

The bituminous tile keeps within on a firm equal surface of a continuous crate. Moisture resistant plywood or OSB boards are usually used as the material for creating the base. Also, a continuous crate can be made of grooved or edged board. Sheet material is laid with the long side parallel to the ridge. Sheets or boards are joined on the rafters "in a row" - on one rafter board there should not be joints of the elements of the lathing of adjacent rows.

If the step of the rafters requires trimming of the sheet material during installation, it is easier to pre-stuff the crate on the rafters from an unedged board calibrated in thickness (with the bark removed), and attach solid flooring elements to it.

On the prepared base, it is recommended to lay a lining carpet of primer roofing. It levels and additionally waterproofs the surface. Besides, this covering will provide high adhesion of a bituminous tile. Slopes with a slope angle of up to 30 ° are completely covered with roofing paper in one or two layers (overlapping vertically 150 mm, horizontally - 80 mm, laying parallel to the eaves). On steeper roofs, the lining layer must be installed in the area of the ridge, valleys, and places where the roof adjoins vertical structures. Priming roofing is nailed, in valleys it is additionally glued.

Basic installation rules

When calculating the amount of material, some nuances should be taken into account. Bituminous tiles are designed to create a roof covering on roofs with a slope angle of 15 - 85 °. The packaging indicates the calculated surface for a slope with a slope of 45 °. When the angle of inclination changes, the consumption of material changes - for a roofing carpet of a more sloping roof, more material will be needed, for a steep one - less. Hexagonal shingles can be used on roofs with a slope of at least 20°.

The laying of bituminous tiles is carried out according to certain rules. To achieve a high-quality result, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime of work and the storage conditions of the material:

work on the installation of roofing should be carried out at an air temperature exceeding +5 ° C;
bituminous shingles should be stored indoors in a packed form, stacked on pallets no more than 16 rows in height;
primer roofing should be stored in rolls in a vertical position;
if work is to be carried out at relatively low temperatures, the underlayment and tiles must be removed in warm room days before installation.

Soft tiles during laying are not processed by a burner, in contrast to the bituminous built-up roof. A protective polymer film is removed from the lower surface of the element prepared for installation, and the part is placed on the prepared plane. The adhesive surface of the shingles adheres tightly to the base under the influence of sunlight (in hot weather) or a hot air gun (in cool weather). If bituminous tiles are mounted in cold or very windy weather, a special bituminous adhesive should be used.

Elements of bituminous tiles from different packages may differ slightly in shade, color intensity. To make the finished roof look aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to spend a separate package of material on the slope. If a large area of the slope does not allow this, the coating is mounted from elements that are alternately taken from several packages - this allows you to achieve a uniform distribution of shades.

In hot weather, the adhesive layer of bituminous tiles softens, and the coating can deform under load. For this reason, such a roof in the heat can only be moved with the help of stairs or roofing "cats".

Fastener features

Roofing from bituminous tiles requires mechanical fastening of each element. For this purpose, they can be used:

screw nails;
shaved nails;
brackets (for mounting tiles on the crate without primer roofing).

The length of the roofing nail must be at least 26 mm and the diameter of the flat head must be 8 mm. Fasteners made of metal with high-quality anti-corrosion treatment are used. Each shingle is fastened with 4 nails, which are driven in at a distance of 2.5 cm from the sides of the tile and 14.5 from its bottom line.

The head of the hammered nail should be flush with the surface. Protruding fasteners can damage the roofing element laid above. A deeply recessed nail creates a recess in which moisture can accumulate, which over time will lead to the destruction of the fastener.

Bituminous glue is used for additional strengthening of tiles at the junction with windows and walls, on the ridge and in valleys, as well as for laying the coating in cold weather. Glue from the cans is applied with a steel spatula, squeezed out of the cylinders with a special gun. Since bituminous adhesive hardens at temperatures below +10 ° C, mounting the roofing in cold weather, it must be preheated. The glued shingle should be firmly pressed to the base.

Shingles installation

The first step is to fasten the metal eaves and wind battens to the underlayment using wood screws or flat head roofing nails. Fasteners are installed along the entire length of the bar in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 100 mm. Metal strips are mounted with an overlap of 50 mm. The laying of the underlayment carpet under the valleys is carried out on top of the cornice strips.

Next, a shingle for cornices is laid on top of the mounted cornice strip. The principle of installation depends on the type of tile: some material manufacturers advise leaving a gap of 1 cm between the bottom line of the eaves shingle and the edge of the eaves, in other cases it is recommended to overhang (1-1.5 cm) the roofing material over the eaves. If the manufacturer does not offer special eaves shingles, it is necessary to cut off several ordinary ones and lay out the first line of shingles on the eaves from the resulting adhesive strips, gluing them end to end.

The installation of shingles starts from the bottom of the eaves, from the middle line of the slope - the shingles are laid retreating to the left and right. The next row of roof elements is laid in such a way that the gap between the lower edge of the cornice row and the lower edge of the second line is 1-2 cm. In this case, a visual straight line of the cornice will be provided when looking at the roof from the ground. If the shingles of the bituminous shingles are rectangular in shape, each even-numbered row must be started with a shingle half so that the elements move diagonally.

If bituminous shingles are installed on the roof of a house built in high winds, the spacing between shingles should be reduced in order to increase the reliability of the coating. On such roofs, the visible part of the tiles will be smaller.

Secrets of a beautiful roof

Accurate installation of shingles with your own hands requires prior knowledge of some of the intricacies of laying. In particular, when bypassing the structural elements of the roof, including the dormer window, the distance between the extreme shingles on both sides of the element should be a multiple of 1 meter - this will allow all subsequent rows to be correctly mounted.

Before starting the laying of the material, it is recommended to draw a slope with chalk vertically and horizontally directly on the primer roofing, marking its middle line, as well as laying lines for every 4-5 rows of elements. If on the slope are located structural elements(dormer or dormer window, chimney or ventilation pipe), then vertical lines are marked from them. This makes it possible to perform the installation as accurately and beautifully as possible.

Valleys and skates

Ridge shingles should be cut along the ridge line. Having completed the ventilation gap in the ridge, the upper edge of the roof is closed with cornice shingles. Instead, you can use a trimmed regular shingle. To bend the shingle without the formation of microcracks, the material must be heated. Bituminous mastic will reliably waterproof the junction of the ridge coating to the roof.

Reliable waterproofing of the valley is carried out as follows: each shingle that falls on the gutter should, without cutting, be fixed on the other side of the gutter with mechanical fasteners and glue. In this case, only the shingles of the top row are cut off, and the gutter of the valley is reliably protected and will not leak during the long-term operation of the roof.