Do-it-yourself stove chimneys. Chimneys: from asbestos to glass. Incorrectly selected chimney configuration

The function of chimneys for wood stoves is to remove smoke and other combustion products from the room. And in order for this element of the heating system to successfully cope with the task, it is necessary to comply with a number of important requirements during its arrangement. What are the rules for building a smoke outlet for a wood-burning stove will be discussed in our today's article. But first we will talk about the classification of wood stoves.

Classification of wood stoves

Wood burning stoves differ from each other in such parameters as:

• material;
• principle of operation;
• design features.

Wood burning stoves in terms of material

Most often, wood stoves are made of cast iron, steel or brick. The surface of these heaters is smooth and quite attractive in appearance, so they fit well into the interior of any room.

The furnace, made of metal, is equipped with a special refractory glass door, which allows you to control the combustion process and add fuel in time.

Cast iron stoves are a kind of rarity, now they are very rare, mainly in villages. Such devices are beautiful, they exude antiquity and some kind of rural romance.

Brick ovens are a "classic of the genre." It is they who are built in our country most often in the form of high, almost to the ceiling, structures lined with tiles. Such heating devices heat up for a long time, but they also cool down for a long time, keeping the temperature in the room comfortable for living for a long time. Therefore, it is worth knowing what are its features.

Advice! In order to achieve maximum heat transfer from a wood stove, it is better to install it near inner wall rooms.

Types of stoves according to the principle of operation

• traditional devices operating up to 5 hours;
• ovens long burning, structurally more complex and capable of heating the room for a long period of time. This is made possible by controlling the intensity of combustion by adjusting the air supply.

Types of furnaces depending on design features

If you look at wood stoves in terms of their design, the classification will be as follows:

• heating;
• heating and cooking;
• fireplaces;
• ovens with a water circuit.

As the name implies, wood-fired heating stoves are used exclusively for heating indoor air. The second variety, that is, heating and cooking stoves, allow you to heat the room and cook. Fireplaces are not just a heating device, they are a real decoration of the interior, a kind of “zest”, the central element of the room, where it is so pleasant to gather with the whole family and share news.

Devices with a water circuit are used for space heating and hot water. Such devices are especially popular in places where there is no centralized hot water supply.

It is better to place the chimney closer to the ridge. If this is not possible, you can mount it in an external wall, additionally protecting it with a layer of thermal insulation to prevent freezing during the cold season.

When choosing a material for the manufacture of a pipe, its properties such as fire resistance, resistance to corrosion and aggressive media should be at the forefront. It is also necessary to correctly select the shape of the chimney, since the traction force depends on it. The optimal solution is a chimney with round section, because if the cross section is square, the thrust decreases, moreover, soot will accumulate in the corners. Take care about .

Advice! To improve draft, make a chimney for a wood-burning stove with a round section.

To ensure easy timely maintenance of the chimney, it is advised to make its inner surface smooth. Soot accumulates less on it, which prevents the release of combustion products and can even lead to a fire.

Those parts of the smoke duct that are in contact with the floor elements must be finished with metal plates in order to increase the level of fire safety. If wooden buildings are located near the outer part of the chimney, a spark arrester is indispensable.

What not to do when arranging a chimney for a wood stove

It is not necessary to equip several furnaces with a common chimney. Everyone has it heater should have its own pipe.

Advice! A common chimney for several heaters is only allowed if they are on the same floor. However, it is necessary to provide for two cuts and valves.

Smoke must not be expelled into ventilation ducts.

Arrangement together with a chimney is unacceptable.

conclusions

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in building a chimney for a wood-burning stove. The main thing is to follow the rules listed above, and the heater will serve you for decades!

Related videos

The chimney is a necessary part heating system private house. It ensures the proper functioning of the furnace or boiler, organizes the removal of harmful combustion products outside the housing.

We will try to figure out how to equip a chimney with our own hands so that heating communications are safe for both people and the house.

The requirements set forth in the regulatory documentation are imposed on the installation of heating devices.

The installation of devices is regulated by the provisions SNiP 2.04.05–91 And DBN V.2.5-20-2001. Also, before drawing up a project, it is advisable to study materials on heating systems ( SNiP 41-01-2003), about heat generation devices ( NPB 252–98), on the technical conditions for the operation of thermal devices ( GOST 9817–95), on the rules and regulations for the operation of smoke channels (VDPO).

The design of the chimney and installation features must fully comply with the requirements specified in the SNiP, otherwise you will not receive a certificate of inspection of the structure, which is issued after commissioning

Part of the requirements is addressed specifically to the device of chimneys. The design of the structure can be anything, but the material of manufacture must be non-combustible.

The materials used for the construction of chimneys can be:

• steel;
• ceramics;
• brick.

Without exception, all structures are prefabricated, and the installation itself is fragmentary, since the chimney passes through several rooms (for example, a room and an attic).

In order for the structure to meet fire safety requirements, it is necessary to correctly calculate its parameters, as well as select all the component parts by size. When installing factory equipment, it is necessary to follow all the recommendations set out in the instructions, including the assembly procedure and methods for mounting parts.

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Transitions through floors and roofs require the use of fire-retardant thermal insulation materials, such as mineral wool, and the installation of protective blocks, which can be called a "sandwich in a sandwich"

The construction of a chimney for a gas boiler, stove or fireplace is a responsible task that requires special permission, design and professional skills. If you are not confident in your abilities, entrust the installation of the pipe to specialists who will perform the work taking into account all norms and requirements.

If you have already had to build a chimney yourself or you are an expert in this matter, please share your experience and knowledge with our readers. Tell us about the nuances of building a chimney in the block below.

Every person who has ever assembled a designer can figure out how to make a chimney in a private house from galvanized or stainless steel. Constituent elements modern systems metal combustion products are simply inserted into each other. The joints are sealed with heat-resistant mastic or sealant and fastened with clamps.

Installation starts from the bottom, that is, from the heat generator. The connection is carried out "on the condensate" against the movement of flue gases. This will prevent condensate from escaping to the outside and possible icing of the chimney.

Making the pipe pass through the roof

If the chimney passes through the roof, then to protect it from precipitation, an adjustable metal apron is used with an angle of inclination corresponding to the roof (0-15 °, 15-30 °, 30-45 °). If the pipe rises above the roof by more than 1.5 m, then it must be fixed with braces.

Fixing the chimney and passing through the roof with the installation of an apron

To seal the intersection of the chimney with the roof, you can use universal rubber seals. Depending on the slope of the roof, a straight or angular type is used. It is only necessary to take into account the range of their operating temperatures.

The passage of the chimney through the roof with a sealant "Master Flash"

The procedure for working with a universal rubber seal is very simple. It is necessary to cut off the top in accordance with the required diameter, put it on the pipe, grease it well from below with heat-resistant silicone and attach it to the roof with a screwdriver.

How to install a universal rubber seal

With steep roof slopes, there is a risk of damage to the chimneys by snow avalanches. To protect the pipes when snow slides from the roof, you can install special metal dividers, as shown in the photo of the chimney on the roof of a private house.

Metal dividers to protect against snow sliding

pipe passing through the wall

In order to avoid the difficulties associated with creating an opening in the roof and its subsequent sealing, they usually try to use the chimney outlet through the wall, usually the back one.

This option implies only one intersection - with outer wall which is easily isolated mounting foam, in contrast to the obviously complex and unreliable connection of a hot chimney to cold roof. In this case, the pipe is easily attached to the outer part of the wall, does not affect the interior, and there are guaranteed no leaks.

Exit the chimney through the wall of the house

Types of chimneys

Drain shafts through which harmful gases saturated with combustion products are removed are required not only for standard stoves, but also for fireplaces and gas boilers. To date, several types of chimneys are known. These include:

Direct streaming. This variety is considered a popular building, which is most often used for arranging living space. The only drawback of such a chimney is the rapid heat loss. In addition to toxic substances, most of the thermal energy escapes here.

Straight flow pipes with lintels. They retain most of the heat in the combustion process of materials. This design is quite often used in baths. Such a long-burning chimney for a stove requires constant cleaning. Ash quickly settles on the surface of the jumpers, thereby preventing the rapid removal of toxic substances.

Straight flow chimney with labyrinth. This variety has a high heat dissipation. Carbon monoxide gases pass through numerous bridges. They quickly heat the walls of the chimney, thereby contributing to the maximum heating of the room.

Kolpakovy. It is used for the Russian stove. Hot smoke quickly rises up, where it gradually begins to cool. After that, it descends along the arch of the chimney masonry. The only drawback of such a structure is its uneven heating.

Modular. They are made from metal alloy. They are designed for gas-fired heating systems. Metal chimneys for furnaces are able to cope with the acidic compounds of methane combustion products. Brickwork in this case will quickly collapse.

Features of chimneys from different materials

The chimney in a private house can be made of the following materials:

• brick;
• ceramics;
• steel.

It is impossible to give preference to one of them and single out a clear favorite. Right choice suitable material for the construction of a chimney can only be made taking into account a complex set of influencing factors. First of all, it is necessary to analyze the specifics of the operating conditions, the properties of each material and the prices at the time of comparison.

Furnace ceramic chimney

Scope of brick chimney

Brick chimney is usually less expensive than other smoke extraction systems. It is able to withstand high temperatures and even soot fires. Its main disadvantage is the bulkiness and complexity of the design. It is built on a foundation or reinforced concrete floor. When working with stoves, fireplaces and wood-fired boilers, it is very reliable and durable, since the high temperature of the flue gases does not allow the formation of condensate. In other cases, it quickly collapses.

Brick chimney from the fireplace

To build a brick chimney in a house with your own hands, you must have the special skills of a stove-maker and a bricklayer. The trunks should be free of cracks and any irregularities. This is a serious construction, which requires skilled workers.

Restoration of a brick chimney can be done independently. You just need to insert a special flexible corrugation of the appropriate length into the channel from above.

Stainless steel chimney inside brick chimney

Benefits of using ceramic chimneys

A ceramic chimney is also relatively inexpensive. It is characterized by increased strength and the ability to accumulate heat. High refractory properties make it possible to use it in high-temperature systems of solid fuel heat sources. The ceramic pipe is able to withstand heating up to 1200°C when soot ignites. The service life with proper care is equal to the service life of the building.

Ceramic elements of different sizes are connected using special grooves and fastened with fire-resistant adhesive-sealant. Ceramic pipes can be mounted openly and in shafts made of bricks or special hollow blocks, installed inside and outside the house.

Ceramic pipes for the chimney

In new construction, it is very profitable and convenient to use system chimneys made of ceramic pipes laid in special shafts. They are good decision for all types of fuel-burning equipment.

Characteristics and varieties of steel chimneys

The steel chimney is easily assembled according to the principle of the designer. Wide choose fittings and fasteners allows you to create almost any configuration and install the chimney in a private house, both during construction and during the operation of the building.

Taking into account the requirements for resistance to corrosion and the action of acids, pipes are not made of ordinary steel, but of galvanized or stainless steel. Stainless steel is noticeably more expensive, but has a longer service life.

Details of a steel chimney

The scope of steel products is limited to systems with a relatively low flue gas temperature, since according to SNiP 41-01-2003 their maximum temperature is 500 ° C. Accordingly, use with solid fuel boilers undesirable.

Steel smoke exhaust systems are very convenient for installation in already occupied houses, as they are mounted quickly, do not need a foundation, plaster and cladding. At the same time, they are noticeably more expensive than brick and ceramic ones.

Chimneys with two walls are also made of steel, according to the “pipe in pipe” principle. They are called coaxial. These are used for condensing and turbocharged gas boilers with closed combustion chambers. The air necessary for combustion is not taken from the room, but from the street.

Coaxial chimneys remove combustion products through the inner pipe, and supply air for combustion through the outer pipe. Their assembly is carried out similarly to single-walled steel ones. Installing a coaxial type chimney has the lowest cost.

Kit for installation of a coaxial chimney

Installation of an external chimney for the boiler

So, we figured out the features of the materials for the construction of an external chimney. The most optimal system is a stainless steel pipe of the appropriate steel grade and wall thickness (depending on the type of fuel the boiler is running on). We note right away that if the boiler is multi-fuel, then the wall thickness and steel grade are considered for the fuel with the highest combustion temperature.

An important condition for the installation of an external chimney is the absence of horizontal transitions. As a rule, it is in them that the largest number soot and condensation that interfere with normal traction.

The distance from the chimney to the roof ridge is also very important, which affects the height of the chimney. The closer the chimney is to the top of the ridge, the greater its height.

Basic requirements for how to make an outdoor chimney:

1. Installation work must be carried out "from bottom to top", inserting each subsequent section inside the previous one. The depth of the joint must be at least half the outer diameter of the pipe.
2. When installing an external chimney with your own hands, for sealing, each joint is treated with a special sealant and clamped with a clamp.
3. The walls along which the chimney is laid must be made of non-combustible materials. Otherwise, a process clearance or gasket made of non-combustible material is required.
4. At a distance of 1-1.5 meters, the pipe section is attached to the wall of the house with a special bracket. Transitions or other structural elements are attached separately.
5. It is necessary to exclude contact of sections of the external chimney with electrical wiring or gas lines.
6. When installing an external chimney according to outer wall it is necessary to provide for the presence of an inspection window or a removable part for system maintenance.

Step-by-step procedure for installing a chimney:

1. Make a hole in the wall. It must be located at least 50 cm from the boiler itself.
2. Fix the fasteners that will serve as a support for installing the chimney. Fasteners for the pipe are installed in increments of no more than 90 cm.
3. Connect the lower part of the pipe to the boiler.
4. top take the chimney outside.
5. Mount the capacitor.
6. Fix the chimney.

Installation of the chimney of their sandwich panels

In order to navigate how to properly make a chimney of this type, special skills are not needed. It is enough to figure out what such a chimney consists of, and in the future to correctly assemble all the parts. Interestingly, some points of sale offer almost prefabricated structures chimneys from sandwich panels, which can be purchased and installed independently without any problems. There is an option to pick up all the components and separately, which an experienced seller can tell you. The installation technology of such a chimney involves the following points:

• all components are mounted from the bottom up;
• in roofing and attic floors, remember to use a non-combustible insulator (stone wool) to prevent fire;
• a steel platform is installed to the ceiling, through the center of which a chimney passes;
• tees with condensate drain are used for outdoor sandwich pipe;
• components going up the level are inserted inside the lower ones;
• if we are talking about an internal chimney, the exit to the roof is carried out using a platform-roof, which has different angle slope, which can be selected at different points of sale, depending on the individual characteristics of the roof;
• after installation, do not forget about the protective elements: weather vane, deflector, thermo fungus or spark arrester.

During the construction of a chimney from sandwich panels, you need to know that the height and size of the section are important. The thrust will be better if the pipe is higher, but it should not be excessively high either, since there will be a large aerodynamic drag.

The cross section of the chimney from sandwich panels is determined according to the rule - the ratio of the inner diameter to the maximum dimensions of the firebox opening should be 10:1.

Features of the use of sandwich pipes for a bath

Since the bath, as a rule, is built of wood (and if it is made of foam blocks, then it is lined with combustible material), thermal insulation issues are of particular importance. It is forbidden to use single-layer chimneys for a bath - only brick and sandwich chimneys are allowed. All distances from the chimney to combustible objects in accordance with SNiP must be carefully verified and observed. All pyrohazard surfaces must be insulated with vermiculite or asbestos. It is forbidden to put a deflector on the bath chimney because of its strong windage. The distance from the chimney to the wall is at least 25 centimeters!

Caution: under no circumstances should a bath ventilation system be combined with a chimney.

preliminary calculations

In addition to the section, you should also determine the length of the chimney and its correct location.

Length calculation

There are some requirements here, let's get acquainted with them.

1. According to the same SNiP, the minimum height of the chimney should be 5 meters.
2. If roofing in your case, it is a combustible material, then the chimney should rise above the ridge by another 1-1.5 meters.
3. If the coating is non-combustible, then this height will be at least 0.5 meters.

Note! If there are extensions to the house, the height of which exceeds its height, then the chimney must be taken out above this particular extension. . Location

Location

1. If the roof is flat, then the pipe should rise above it by at least 0.5 meters.
2. If the chimney is less than 1.5 meters from the ridge, then it must rise at least 0.5 meters above the ridge.
3. If this distance fluctuates between 1.5-3 meters, then the height of the pipe should be equal to the height of the ridge.
4. Finally, if the chimney is located further than 3 meters, then this height should be equal to the line drawn in the imagination from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizon.

If all these requirements are taken into account, then the installation of the chimney will be performed correctly.

Requirements for a chimney for a gas boiler

How to install a chimney for a gas boiler, their design features and how to choose the right location. Find out the answers to these questions

What else should you know?

1. Installation of the structure should start from the heater and gradually rise upwards.
2. Various engineering communications (such as electrical wiring, gas pipeline, etc.) must not touch the chimney.
3. It is impossible for there to be ledges in the structure.
4. The structure must be protected from the effects of atmospheric precipitation. This will require a deflector or any other device. It is important that such protection does not prevent the free release of flue gases.
5. The temperature of flue gases moving through the channel should not exceed 50 degrees.
6. During installation, all the nuances regarding the installation of a sandwich chimney must be taken into account. So, if the roof is made of flammable material, and peat or wood is used as fuel, then spark catchers should be installed, which are usually made from a metal mesh with mesh sizes of 0.5x0.5 centimeters.
7. Pipe sections that are sloped should not be rough. In addition, their cross-sectional area must at least correspond to the vertical one.

Connection options

There are several ways to connect such chimneys:

1. flanged;
2. by condensate;
3. bayonet;
4. by smoke;
5. and finally cold.

Note! The design is assembled by smoke to completely eliminate penetration carbon monoxide into the room. But for condensate, so that condensed moisture flows freely along the walls due to the temperature difference.

If the installation of the sandwich chimney with your own hands was done in the first way, then the smoky gases will not encounter any obstacles and, thanks to the draft, will be quickly taken out into the street. But if the joints at the same time are sealed poorly, then condensate can penetrate inside the structure, which will have a very bad effect on basalt insulation. In the second case, the inner tube is installed in the socket, so moisture can in no way penetrate inside. But if there is at least a small gap, then the smoke can enter the room. So which option to choose? Condensed moisture harms the insulation, and smoke gases harm human health. The way out is obvious: regardless of the method chosen, all joints and cracks should be carefully sealed.

Note! It is advisable to install the internal pipes of the structure along the condensate so that it does not get into the joints and does not leak.

We also note that even with two layers, such chimneys require good insulation of those sections that are the most fire-resistant - we are talking about the roof, beams and floors. Moreover, the sandwich should not be used to connect directly to the heater.

So, you are already familiar with the technology. Now it remains only to purchase all the necessary materials (necessarily high-quality, certified) and get to work!

Mounting sequence

Installation of an internal chimney begins with drawing up a diagram and calculating the required number of pipe segments. To assemble correctly, the device is performed in the following order:

Scheme of the chimney outlet through the corrugated roof

• The surface of the walls and floor behind the heater and the chimney is protected from heat with fire-resistant material, for example, asbestos sheets.
• The first segment of the pipe is connected to the branch pipe of the heat generating device or furnace. If there are gaps at the junction, use an adapter or seal. To seal the joint, use a fire-resistant sealant and a metal clamp.
• Each subsequent segment of a single-circuit pipe is put on the lower one so as not to impede the passage of smoke. The connection of sandwich pipes is performed differently - the elements of the internal circuit are inserted into the underlying module, in the external one, vice versa.
• It is recommended to observe an overlap between pipes equal to a quarter of the radius. To make it more convenient to process with sealant and tighten the joints with clamps, you should not place them in the places of passage of interfloor ceilings and roofs.
• If you want to turn the pipe, the modules are connected using a swivel elbow with an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.
• In order to pass the chimney through the ceiling and the roof, it is necessary to make a hole in them and install a passage box or branch pipe into which refractory insulation is poured.

After the pipe is brought to the roof, it is protected by an elastic seal in the form of a funnel, which reliably protects against water penetration.

Installation of a silicone sealant for waterproofing the connection between the corrugated board and the pipe

• The pipe is completed to the calculated height and a protective umbrella is put on top to prevent debris, branches and birds from entering the chimney.
• The place where the pipe exits is finished with a decorative apron that matches the color of the roofing material.

After the installation is completed, it is necessary to start the heating system, check the draft and the tightness of the connections - even a small slight smoke indicates serious problems, the solution of which is unsafe to postpone.

Installing a chimney in a house is a responsible event, the quality of which depends on the comfort and safety of the heating system, so follow the recommendations of the manufacturers, the installation technology.

For solid fuel boiler brick chimney

Brick chimney, usually is cheaper than modern chimney systems. The traditional ceramic brick chimney can easily withstand the high flue gas temperatures. The pipe withstands even ignition of soot accumulations in the chimney.

A brick chimney for a boiler in a private house is a rather heavy structure. The chimney is located on the foundation or solid reinforced concrete floor. The construction of such a chimney requires certain skills, it is better to entrust the laying of a sealed and durable chimney to a qualified stove-setter.

Channels and chimneys and ventilation are often placed in a brick chimney

The laying of the chimney is carried out from high-quality solid ceramic bricks of grade not lower than M125 on a conventional masonry mortar. The upper section of the pipe, above the roof, can be laid out of facing or clinker bricks. The wall thickness of the chimney must be at least 120 mm(half a brick).

Brick chimney. Next to the chimney, in one vertical block, ventilation ducts are usually placed. Templates facilitate the laying of even channels with smooth walls.

The size of the chimney and ventilation channels is chosen as a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the vertical joints. For example, channel section can be 140x140 mm(1/2x1/2 bricks) or 140x200 mm(1/2x3/4 bricks), or 140x270 mm(1/2 x 1 brick). In practice, a smoke channel is often made with a size of 20 x 20 cm(3/4x3/4 bricks). In such a channel, if necessary, it is easy to pick up and insert a round steel or ceramic insert of the appropriate diameter.

The flue gases in the chimney duct must not cool too much. Therefore, they try to build the chimney into the masonry of the inner wall of the house or attach it to the wall. Chimney sections that pass through an unheated room (attic) or outside the house insulated with mineral wool.

Brick the chimney reliably and for a long time serves only at a high temperature of the flue gases, which prevents the formation of condensate in the pipe. As a rule, this condition is met when the chimney is operated with a conventional one.

When working with modern boilers on gas or liquid fuel, as well as with solid fuel pyrolysis boilers, pellet and others, operating for a long time in low-intensity slow burning mode, the brick chimney collapses rather quickly.

Modern boilers are designed so that the exhaust gases have a fairly low temperature. As a result, the water vapor contained in the flue gases condenses in the chimney. The walls of the pipe are constantly moistened. In addition, when combined with other combustion products, water forms aggressive chemical compounds on the inner surface of the pipe.

In particular, the exhaust gases of boilers contain sulfur, which, interacting with water, forms sulfuric acid in the chimney, corroding its walls. External signs of destruction - dark wet spots on the outer surface of a brick pipe.

The operating mode of the solid fuel pyrolysis boiler also contributes to the formation of aggressive condensate in the chimney, which quickly destroys the brick chimney.

The rough walls of the chimney contribute to the accumulation of soot solid particles on them. The roughness of the walls and the rectangular shape of the chimney channel make it difficult to clean the chimney from deposits.

For connection to a brick chimney of gas and other boilers with a low flue gas temperature, it is necessary to place an insert in the brick channel - a pipe of a steel or ceramic chimney.

How to install stainless steel or cast iron chimneys

The cheapest and easiest way to install a chimney is to install a metal pipe. The entire installation is divided into several successive stages:

1. First you prepare the channel for the chimney.
2. Then you actually install the chimney.
3. And on final stage you mount insulation around the pipe.

The channel under the chimney metal pipe should be approximately one and a half times its diameter. In this case, you will have space for isolation.

stainless steel chimney installation

Actually, the metal chimney consists of the following components: a metal pipe, adapters for mounting tunics, a cap and a condenser. In a number of designs, a gate is installed with a chimney - a unit that increases draft in the system.

Chimney installation steps

On the initial stage chimney installation, you need to adjust the length of the pipes. Further, the resulting structure is placed in a pre-prepared channel. After that, a capacitor and the heater itself (stove or boiler) are connected to the system. At the final stage, the head is installed.

In order to rigidly fix the pipe, it must be fixed to the wall at least every one and a half meters.

When installing steel and cast iron pipes, it is necessary to provide high-quality thermal insulation of the chimney. Only in this case will you be able to avoid the fire of the ceilings and structures adjacent to them due to a suddenly leaky pipe. For insulation metal chimney it is best to use the classic method - refractory clay. But in extreme cases, you can use special refractory foam.

Also, with the help of clay, it is possible to decorate the joints of the chimney from a metal pipe with ceilings and a roof.

joint of a metal chimney with a ceiling

If you use a metal pipe, then it must be fixed to the ceiling and walls with fasteners every half a meter. This is due to the large weight of such chimney pipes. In addition, the mounting holes are made wider - by about two pipe diameters.

A cast iron pipe will last longer as a chimney, but its installation is fraught with certain difficulties. So you can cut such a pipe only with the help of a grinder.

Proper installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands

Sandwich chimneys made of several materials are replacing conventional metal pipes. The multi-layer design allows you to qualitatively isolate the floors from heating by the combustion products of the furnace. When installing such a chimney, additional insulation is not required, as a result of which the mounting holes can be made almost equal to the diameter of the pipe.

When installing metal pipes, they fit into each other like nesting dolls and no additional fixation is required to connect the knees of the work. In sandwich chimneys, the pipe elbows must be connected to each other using a special construction adhesive. In addition to fixing the knees, construction adhesive also prevents smoke from entering the premises.

Sandwich pipes are very sensitive to the formation of condensate from atmospheric moisture, therefore they are not recommended for use in the installation of external chimneys. Inside the building, such a pipe can last up to 70 years.

Installation of an external chimney

The most optimal material for the manufacture of an external stove chimney will be a pipe made of stainless steel. It weighs a little and is well processed by the simplest tools.

outdoor chimney installation

In order to mount an external chimney from a stainless pipe, carry out the following work:

• Punch a hole in the pipe adjacent to the boiler. It should be located no lower than half a meter from the top of the boiler.
• Place fasteners on the outer wall a meter apart.
• Connect the chimney inlet to the heater.
• Move the bent pipe elbow out of the room.
• Mount the capacitor.
• Fix the pipe to the wall.
• Install the cap and chimney guard.

Design features of a sandwich chimney

Thanks to the British, all structures that consist of more than three layers are called "sandwiches". And, of course, there is a chimney with a similar name, where there is a thermal insulation layer between the two circuits (mainly from basalt-based materials).

Thanks to this, combustion products are removed from the combustion chamber as efficiently as possible, since:

1. internal surfaces perfectly tolerate the effects of condensing moisture and high temperature;
2. thermal insulation layer prevents overheating of the external circuit;
3. excellent traction is achieved;
4. design features do not allow moisture to get on the thermal insulator.

The inside of the chimney is made of stainless steel, which is known to be resistant to rust. As for the external, it is often made from galvanized steel, which is less durable, but cheaper. Therefore, you will have to choose between quality (read: stainless steel) and economy (galvanization). And if the inner pipes are primarily required to endure critical temperatures well, then the outer ones must be just strong so that the shape of the entire structure does not change.

In addition to the chimney itself, during installation you will need:

1. special "adapter" for passing through the roof;
2. brackets for fixing pipes;
3. platform for unloading - it will allow you to evenly distribute the weight and relieve the base from the load;
4. revision with a window for cleaning;
5. clamps for fastening structural elements;
6. adapters;
7. knee 90 or 45 degrees (in order to change the direction of the chimney);
8. adapters.

Note! The upper part of the pipe can be decorated with a cone or other elements - a fungus, a spark extinguisher, a wobbler, a weather vane, and so on. . Sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it is quite possible to install it even outside the house

But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

Sandwich chimney provides excellent thermal insulation, so it can be installed even outside the house. But it will function much better if you install it in the house, as close as possible to the heat source (this minimizes heat loss).

Read more about how to make a chimney for a solid fuel boiler

Previously, we have already considered the principles of installing such a chimney, read more

Varieties of chimney pipes

The chimney pipe serves to transfer smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere, it starts from the inlet pipe of the heater in the house and ends above the roof ridge with a protective umbrella. In private construction, the following types are mainly used:

1. from brick. The brick chimney has been used since the time when people started building fireplaces and stoves. The difference between the modern one is the use of special furnace, fire-resistant bricks. Due to its heat storage properties, this material keeps the heat inside the pipe, preventing overheating of the house decoration in contact with its walls. The complex construction of a brick pipe, a significant mass, force homeowners to abandon this option. Only experienced furnace masters can correctly install this type of chimney, which increases costs due to the wages of the master.

metal. The sale of metal chimneys has facilitated the creation of a chimney system in a private house. Additional pipes made of alloyed steel with a thickness of 1 mm or more are lighter and cheaper than analogues made of bricks. The device of such a chimney consists of separate modules. Straight modules are used for laying vertical and horizontal sections, and bends and tees for rotary ones. Installing a chimney made of galvanized steel has one drawback, which is that its material has better thermal conductivity compared to brick pipes, so it needs additional insulation. However, self-installation of this type of chimney is much easier to do everything right, just follow the instructions.

Internal type metal chimney

2. from ceramics. The ceramic chimney device combines the strengths of brick and metal chimneys. It has a modular design and has low thermal conductivity. The price for such products is higher than for a metal pipe, but significantly lower than the cost of a brick one. It is problematic to make a ceramic chimney curved, it is better suited for a vertical system configuration.

Ceramic chimney pipe

The material from which the chimney is made can be correctly selected based on three factors: compliance with the material of the heater, low thermal conductivity and tightness of the joints.

Specifications of sandwich pipe

1. Material. As thermal insulation material basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemical substances. Mineral wool has excellent heat-insulating/sound-insulating properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. For the inner casing, more expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly produced by galvanized steel, while the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Sandwich pipes galvanized and stainless steel

1. Connection type. Elements of sandwich pipes are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but a large amount of sealant is needed to ensure tightness, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, so that the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for a very precise fit of all parts.

Connection types of sandwich pipes

Assembly of the structure

The external chimney (its main part) is installed outside the building, which is connected by a horizontal pipe through the wall of the building with a thermal unit. After installing the heating boiler, it must be connected to the chimney pipe, which will be located outside the building. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. However, it is necessary to follow some rules for the withdrawal of the chimney through the wall.

Mounting outside

Work performance rules

The installation of the chimney is carried out in all cases from the heating boiler, or rather, from the chimney up. The gas exhaust pipe is always put on the previous one, this avoids the penetration of moisture into the insulation.

• A heat-resistant sealant is used for the tightness of the structure, not less than 1000*С.
• Clamps should be used on waste connections, tees and pipes.
• At an interval of two meters, the external chimney must be rigidly attached to the wall with special brackets. They should also be used when fastening tees.
• Horizontal sections of the chimney pipe are not allowed to exceed one meter.
• Avoid contact of gas pipes with chimney ducts and electrical wiring.
• When passing a pipe through a combustible structure, use special fire-fighting nozzles.
• Install a removable cleaning door (this must be done twice a season) of the structure, at the base of the chimney.

Installation

When everything is known about the design and the material is ready, you can proceed to the main work.

• We connect the chimney to the nozzle of the heating boiler using an elbow, pipe or tee (depending on the design).
• We join the pipe with the chimney with the necessary transition node.
• We process the joints with sealant and install clamps.
• We carry out the passage through the wall using a special passage pipe (docking is prohibited at the place where the wall passes).

Attention: All sections of the chimney pipe should be pushed tightly, without gaps, one into the other, the insertion distance should be at least 0.5 of the pipe section (planting depth). .

Chimney outlet in the wall

• We are preparing the installation of the vertical part of the structure. At the end of a horizontal pipe led through the wall, we attach a tee with fasteners for a vertical pipe. If we use a knee, conditions should be created for cleaning the horizontal gap of the connection. When using a tee, the lower outlet is blocked by a plug, which is removed or we use a tee with revision. How and to what to attach the chimney depends on its location. The pipe is attached to the wall with wall brackets every 2 meters. If the main pipe is heavy, the elbow must be supported. It often happens that it is impossible to fasten to the wall along the entire length of the structure; in this case, stretch marks are used.
• We install a collar with ears, attach clamps to the ears and we already attach stretch marks of the required length to them. In this case, the cable for stretch marks must be at least 3 mm in diameter.
• In places of fastening of stretch marks, we install eye-studs or anchors (we choose based on the surface of the fastening).

Assembling the outer pipe

The next step is to lift and fasten the entire structure of the vertical pipe. It is possible to install in parts, but this is unsafe work at height, and sometimes even impossible. As a rule, the pipe is assembled on the ground, fasten all parts with clamps, prepare fasteners for stretch marks and brackets.

• To facilitate this process, we use a hinge.
• We select the desired elbow for connection and fasten the hinge to the edge of the outer pipe, weld it.
• We raise the finished end of the pipe at the level of the junction and also attach the hinge to the end of the elbow.
• We lift the entire structure with the help of attached cables and horns. This should be done in good weather, it is unacceptable to perform in gusty winds.
• We carry out fastening in accessible places.
• For stability, we fix slightly stretch marks.
• We unscrew the nuts that fastened the hinge. We cut off the bolts themselves with a grinder and knock out the endings.
• We knock out the hinge and make fasteners of the remaining bolts at the junction.
• We produce full tension stretch marks. We adjust the tension with lanyard screws.

Installation has come to an end. We make fasteners of the junction and sealing of the joint. After we carry out the insulation of the vertical pipe, we make insulation (this way we will avoid the appearance of condensate). Now for the heating of the house you can be calm.

Chimney in the bath

For a bath the best option is a metal chimney. The sauna stove rarely reaches extremely high temperatures, and the atmosphere in the sauna is maintained only by good insulation of the room. But here it is better to take stainless steel, because the humidity in the building will be high, which will significantly affect the durability of the metal.

The presented options show the available chimney outlets from the bathhouse. It is worth considering that they all have thermal insulation in the outer area. This is necessary to reduce heat loss and less damage to the metal.

The design of the chimney for a sauna stove is not so complicated, here it is only necessary to take into account important nuance- condensate. It will constantly accumulate due to high temperatures and humidity. This is undesirable, because it will reduce the duration of the chimney.

1. Single-circuit pipe connecting the furnace and chimney.
2. Adapter.
3. Double pipe.
4. Condensate drain.
5. Umbrella.

Initially, it is necessary to assemble these components. It is carried out by means of clamps and adapters that allow you to connect the various components of the chimney. You will also need a 45-degree bend, which allows you to bring the pipe to the side. It is recommended to bring it out not through the roof, but through the wall, which will protect the structure from condensation.

Advice ! Assembly can be carried out both in advance and during the installation of components on the building.

The material from which the pipes are made

For different heating devices and fuels, a different type of steel is selected. It must be highly alloyed and stainless, suitable for the manufacture of chemically resistant and fireproof chimneys.

In the device of the chimney, one of the main characteristics is the steel grade as a criterion for long-term service and resistance to external negativity

During the combustion of various substances, chemically active substances can accumulate in the chimney: sulfuric acid, sulfur, hydrochloric acid. In addition, the temperature during combustion of different fuels can vary greatly.

When heated with wood or gas, it does not rise above 450 ° C, when burning coal, it can reach 700 ° C. Metals react differently to these indicators. Therefore, when choosing a system for removing smoke, pay attention to main characteristic- quality and properties of steel.

Option #1: Alloyed Stainless Steel

The main grades of steel alloys that are used for the production of sandwich chimneys:

• Titanium stabilized stainless steel (AISI 321). Used for wood burning equipment. Not resistant to corrosion in sulfur containing environments. Permissible operating temperature - 600-800°C.
• Molybdenum stabilized stainless steel (AISI 316). The installation of a sandwich chimney made of this steel grade is carried out for heating installations that run on wood, gas, diesel fuel. The metal is acid-resistant, characterized by increased resistance to corrosion, aggressive environments of various nature.
• Heat resistant steel (AISI 304). The inclusion of chromium and nickel in the composition makes the steel insensitive to elevated temperatures and acidic environments. It is used for the production of chimneys with a high exhaust gas temperature - about 1000 °C. At a temperature of 600-800 °C, it is prone to loss of viscosity and plasticity, which leads to embrittlement.
• The widely used grades AISI 409 and 430 have poor resistance to high temperatures and acids. Most of the Chinese products and some of the domestic ones are made from steel of these grades.

It is visually impossible to check the steel grade. When buying, you can check the markings on the product itself or try to approximately determine the quality with a magnet. A low quality material will attract a magnet, alloyed metal will not.

When choosing pipes for a chimney, take an interest in their main characteristics. If there is any doubt about the honesty of the seller, take a magnet with you - it will be attracted to steel products with insufficient proportions of alloying additives

Option #2: Black metal for chimneys

By itself, ferrous metal wears out quickly - it oxidizes and burns out. Therefore, special enamel is used to protect it. This improves resistance to acidic conditions. Enamel can serve for a long time at a temperature not exceeding 400 °C and withstand a short-term increase to 750 °C.

A variety of shades of enameled pipes makes them quite popular.

Enamelled pipes are used to divert combustion products from heating columns, stoves, heating boilers, fireplaces. Unlike steel, they can be painted in different colors. This allows you to select the desired shades for the interior or facade of the house.

Option number 3: Combined sandwich chimneys

To reduce the cost of production, enterprises are trying to use cheaper materials. If the inner tube is made of expensive stainless steel, and the outer tube is made of galvanized or enameled metal, then this has little effect on the service life of the product.

It’s worse if it’s the other way around: stainless steel is used on the outside, and cheap low-quality material is hidden inside. Such a pipe, with intensive use, can last a year and fail, which will entail new costs for materials and installation.

Inner insulation layer

Between the two pipes of the sandwich chimney there is a layer of insulating material that keeps the heat inside and thus maintains good draft. Basalt or ceramic wool is used as insulation - fibrous materials with the highest fire resistance class.

Basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 600 °C, ceramic - up to 1000 °C. Both materials have good thermal insulation properties. Apply a layer of insulation 25-50 mm. For a chimney that is mounted outside, the larger it is, the better.

Why trim the pipe

There are at least 3 reasons why it is necessary to finish the chimneys on the roof:

1. High temperatures, on the one hand, and cold air, on the other, lead to the fact that condensate settles on the inner surface of the pipe. But this is not just water, the condensate is an aggressive acidic cocktail that gradually corrodes the pipe. External insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulation and eliminates the appearance of condensate;

Clinker brick does not require additional finishing.

1. 222222If a solid body was used to construct the chimney clinker brick or a stainless steel pipe, these materials are not afraid of weather troubles. While ordinary brick without external protection will begin to crumble in a couple of years, steel will rust and concrete will crack;
2. In addition to the strength of the chimney, there is also such an important point as the rain protection of the roof itself. If the sealing of the pipe connection sector with the roof was poorly done, then in a year the insulation will become unusable, and the wooden truss system will begin to deteriorate.

Do not wait for the moment when the complete destruction of the chimney comes.

What to rely on when developing a project

Appearance and original design this is of course important, but before you finish the pipe in the house, you should think about safety. About the dire consequences, I think you can guess for yourself

So, in order not to make mistakes and not burn down the house, for a start it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the standards. In this case should be guided by SNiP 41-01-2003, it is this instruction that regulates the installation and operation of heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The document is voluminous, so I wrote out the main theses for you.

Norms SNiP 41-01-2003.

• If combustible heat-insulating and Decoration Materials for a chimney, the temperature of their spontaneous ignition must be at least 20 ° C higher than the maximum possible temperature of the pipe. The same rule applies to all structures and objects surrounding the chimney within a radius of half a meter;
• Able to corrode metal products must have an appropriate coating that protects the surface from corrosion;
• The walls of brick chimneys made of heat-resistant bricks should not be thinner than 120 mm. If we are talking about heat-resistant concrete, then the wall thickness of such pipes starts from 60 mm;
• The use of metal and asbestos-cement structures for the arrangement of the chimney is allowed only if there is a factory quality certificate that allows the operation of products at high temperatures;

Finishing of asbestos-cement chimneys.

The use of asbestos-cement and thin-walled stainless pipes in coal or coke ovens is strictly prohibited. These materials are not able to withstand the temperature of gases in such a chimney.

• The mouth of the chimney (the highest point on the roof) must be equipped with an umbrella, deflector or other protective structure that prevents debris and precipitation from entering the chimney. At the same time, protective structures should not interfere with the exit of flue gases;
• The distance from brick and heat-insulated chimneys to roof rafters and other wooden structures should not be less than 130 mm. If a heat-resistant ceramic pipe without thermal insulation is installed, then the safety distance increases to 250 mm.

Baffle made of galvanized sheet.

When choosing both the chimney itself and the finish for the surface of the chimney inside or outside, you should consider the type of fuel that your boiler or stove will run on. The flue gas temperature directly depends on this.

Types of fuel for a solid fuel boiler.

Pros and cons of using a sandwich chimney

Disadvantages of chimneys assembled from sandwich pipes:

• seal failure after a certain number of heating and cooling cycles;
• compared with a brick structure, a sandwich chimney has a higher cost;
• the service life is about 15 years, while traditional chimneys made of refractory bricks last 10 years more.

Such a short service life is mainly due to the use of low-quality materials in production.

Choosing products from a trusted brand is the first thing you can do for a long and successful operation of the chimney.

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Chimneys assembled from sandwich elements do not need thermal insulation. Any length of the canal section can be located outside the building
Smoke ducts assembled from sandwich elements work with any type of heating units, can be installed in rooms that are not equipped to accommodate such equipment
Sandwich chimney is assembled from elements that are a pipe in a pipe, the space between which is filled with insulation
The assembly and installation of the pipe begin with a horizontal section, start from the exit point of the shaped pipe from the house
Sections of the intersection of the sandwich wall and the roofing system with a chimney are insulated with overlays made of non-combustible materials
At the point where the chimney crosses the roof system or wall, only a solid element can be located. It is impossible for the passage to have a place for joining elements
In order to prevent precipitation from seeping through the roof, a sealed passage assembly is built around the chimney

Argument in favor of sandwich systems

Compatibility with heating units

Design features pipes

Starting section of pipe assembly

Details of insulation of chimney passages

Features of the arrangement of penetrations

The device of the passage node through the roof

Installing an umbrella at the mouth of the chimney

The advantages of sandwich chimneys are as follows:

• Insulated walls. Thanks to thermal insulation, even the chimney placed outside does not lose draft. Multilayer walls prevent the quick cooling of the combustion products, which are quickly removed through the chimney, and this prevents condensate and soot from actively forming.
• Easy installation. Having studied the principles of building chimneys, even a beginner can assemble them.
• Variety of options. To assemble the structure, straight and corner modules are produced. The chimney can be brought up or into the wall, it can go around the truss system, various architectural elements.
• Minimum soot deposits. Due to the smooth surface of the pipes, ash and soot are released into the atmosphere faster and accumulate more slowly.

In addition, the sandwich system has a relatively low weight, which means that it is easier to create a support for it and does not require the construction of a special foundation, as for a brick chimney. It can be attached to ceilings and walls, installed directly on heating equipment. Compared to single-walled chimneys, sandwich chimneys almost do not form condensate and are fireproof.

Even the most complex design can be assembled from standard elements of a chimney sandwich

Three options for self-arrangement of the chimney outside

There are 3 options where a person without special training can do everything with his own hands. The first option concerns brick pipes, which do not need lining, but you need to seal the joint with the roof. After that, there is a frame version and a version with ready-made factory solutions.

Option number 1: we equip a brick pipe

The waterproofing of the pipe on the roof must be carried out before laying the roofing material. If the roof is already lying, then it will have to be partially disassembled. The entire perimeter is removed by 50-70 cm around, plus you need to remove the lower part of the roof from the pipe to the edge of the slope.

The scheme of sealing the perimeter of a brick pipe on a pitched roof.

Of the materials, we need a wall-mounted metal profile. It can be bent from galvanized steel with your own hands or bought ready-made. The profile consists of 4 parts, which are superimposed on each other during installation.

It is definitely better to buy an outer apron for a pipe, and it is advisable to buy it together with roofing material, it is easier to choose a color.

The so-called tie is a sheet of roofing iron with sides bent on the sides. It is laid from the bottom of the pipe to the edge of the slope and is wound under the lower section of the wall profile.

In order to hermetically connect a brick pipe with a wall profile, we need to cut a groove with a grinder on the pipe with a depth of about 20–30 mm. The bent edge of the profile is inserted into this strobe.

Under the wall profile on the pipe, a strobe is cut along the entire perimeter.

Next, we insert the bent edge of the profile into the strobe and fill the strobe with sealant. After that, we fix all 4 parts of the profile and a tie wound from below with self-tapping screws with press washers. Roofing material is laid on top of this entire structure.

Scheme of arrangement of the upper apron for the chimney.

The upper apron is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter. On the pipe, it must go at least 100 mm. The lower part of the apron is often made of soft bituminous materials. It is pressed around the corrugated roof and glued to this roof with mastic or special glue.

The apron must be glued to the roof.

The scheme works something like this: the top apron removes the main amount of moisture from the pipe, but if this barrier did not cope with its task and moisture got under the roof, then the wall profile will collect it and the water will drain down the tie from the roof.

Scheme of double hydroprotection of the roof in the sector adjacent to the chimney.

Option number 2: mounting the frame

This method is well suited for insulating and lining the chimney with corrugated board, siding and other similar materials. To begin with, the base is sheathed with a metal profile, later we will mount the corrugated board on it. The frame is best made from a wall profile for drywall, it is wider than the ceiling.

The frame made of metal profile is more durable.

It is not difficult to work with a metal profile, but if you are not confident in your abilities, then you can build a frame from wooden blocks. Truth wooden frame it will be necessary to soak well with flame retardants, antiseptics and water-repellent composition. Between the slats of the frame, to insulate the pipe, slabs of dense mineral wool are laid.

Chimneys are insulated only with dense mineral wool slabs.

Decking or any other sheet material is screwed to the frame rails with self-tapping screws with press washers. The whole structure is crowned with an umbrella to protect against rain.

Scheme of insulated and cladding pipes in section.

Option number 3: ready-made solutions

There are no problems with round pipes now. Special flexible aprons are produced for them. From experience, you can mount such an apron in a maximum of a couple of hours. Photo instructions for installing such an apron are given below.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a flexible junction for a round pipe.

1. Choose the pipe diameter you need and cut a hole in the soft polymer cone;
2. Pull the cone onto the pipe, the connection should be tight;
3. Compress the lower soft metal ring in the shape of the roof;
4. Thickly lubricate the perimeter under the ring with sealants;
5. Screw the ring to the roofing material with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Design features

Despite the huge choice of materials for the construction of chimneys, double-circuit steel pipes, popularly referred to as "sandwich", are the most widely used today.

The chimney type "sandwich" is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, which simultaneously serves as an insulator and a heater.

Video: Sandwich pipe chimney

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical specifications. For installation of a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. Indeed, due to just one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature drop in such a chimney, condensate forms, which reduces draft and creates plugs in the pipe.

The device of a double-circuit sandwich pipe

Therefore, for installing a chimney through a wall, the best option would be to buy a sandwich pipe. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to the low price compared to brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, the installation of a chimney from this material can be done by hand. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

What should be the height of the chimney

A necessary condition for a stable and reliable operation almost all heat sources is the presence of good traction. It arises due to the difference between the temperatures of the exhaust gases and the outside air. With an increase in this difference, traction increases. It directly depends on the height, characteristics and correctness of the chimney device.

The action of the wind can enhance the natural draft in the pipe, and may interfere. Under favorable conditions, horizontal wind flows, colliding with the chimney, change their direction and move from bottom to top, as a result, a vacuum is created at the outlet, and combustion products are literally sucked out of the chimney. In the presence of other obstacles, the wind can be directed from top to bottom and create a reverse movement of gases - reverse thrust, which leads to smoke in the room.

Scheme for determining the height of the chimney

The normal movement of the wind can be interfered with by any tall structure located nearby, including part of pitched roof. Therefore, the height of the chimney is determined taking into account the distance to the ridge according to the standard scheme.

In this case, the total height of the pipe from the heat generator must be at least 5 m, for a gas boiler - at least 3 m.

Structural elements and their features

A variety of manufactured products allows you to perform complex tasks for the construction of sandwich chimneys.

Chimney manufacturers have developed more than twenty different elements to facilitate installation

The main structural elements of the chimney channel are:

• Straight sections of pipe. Sections with a diameter of 80-600 mm, up to 1 m long. The ideal design of the chimney is straight, but in practice this is difficult to achieve.
• Elbows and tees. They are used if it is necessary to bring the chimney through the wall, outside the building, or bypass the structural elements of the house - beams, rafters. Sometimes for turns (especially straight lines, 90 °) revision tees are used - they allow you to clean the chimney in hard-to-reach places. They are installed and strengthened with brackets so that they do not bear the weight of the structure above.
• Pass pipe. Isolates the pipe from interfloor partitions, serves as a mount for the chimney.
• Roof cutting. It is a metal cone that is attached to the roof at a certain angle. Helps to pass the pipe through the roof, without violating its tightness and increasing fire safety. Instead, a special silicone seal can be used, which serves as a better protection against leakage.

In addition to the above elements, there are still a lot of devices for installing a chimney from sandwich pipes, as well as its further operation.

The chimney is fixed with brackets every two meters. Fasteners for fixing the clamps on the wall are selected in accordance with the material from which it is composed

Second phase. Chimney outlet

This procedure can be performed in one of two ways:

1. through the wall;
2. through the roof.

Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Option number 1: output through the wall

In this case, the entire structure will have to be disassembled and fixed with the so-called landing brackets. After that, an external bracket is assembled, a pair of corners is attached to it, forming “runners” (so the tee can be freely moved during installation, while nothing will get stuck).

The wall itself is closed with a sheet of plywood 1 centimeter thick, and asbestos is attached on top with screws. Next, a sheet of galvanized steel with dimensions of 12x20 centimeters is installed. A square-shaped hole is made in this sheet for the outlet of the pipe, after which it is also fastened with screws. At the end, the bracket is covered with a special anti-corrosion varnish. An adapter is inserted into the hole, a hole is made in it, and then a pipe is put on it.

Also in the construction of chimneys there is such a thing as a concession. This is the space that must be left between the wall surface and the pipe.

Table. Basic requirements for a concession (it is also called a retreat)

Note! The first structural element must be calculated in such a way that the first sandwich pipe is attached to the second one above the level of cutting the ceiling. This is explained quite simply: the most fire-resistant elements need visual control

Option number 2: output through the roof

Such a do-it-yourself sandwich chimney installation is also possible. In this case, a sheet of steel is taken and applied to the exit hole from the inside. The chimney is removed and only then the sheet is fixed to the roof. If necessary, it is additionally wound up under the edge.

Note! If the roof is flat, then the pipe, as noted above, should be at least 1 meter higher than it. And if the height exceeds 120 centimeters, then extensions with clamps are additionally placed.

If the roof is made of combustible material, then it is additionally protected from ignition. For this purpose, the chimney is equipped with a spark arrester.

We do not imagine homes without heating. Our concept of comfort unconditionally includes suitable temperature regime. There is no central heating in a private house, and each owner has a heating problem.

We welcome our regular reader and bring to his attention an article about chimneys for stoves - an absolutely necessary component of any heating system, whether it is a stove, a modern fireplace or a boiler with automatic fuel supply.

Chimney - a vertically located pipe that discharges hot flue gases of the fuel in the heating unit into the atmosphere to a height sufficient to create draft in the duct and disperse toxic combustion products away from windows and ventilation ducts.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of chimneys is based on the phenomenon of expansion of hot gases, a decrease in their density and, accordingly, the rise of lighter gases upwards.

Flue gases rise upwards, a rarefaction is formed in the furnace and colder air is sucked in - a draft phenomenon occurs.

How is the chimney

The main part of any chimney is a vertical pipe structure. Structurally different from modern prefabricated counterparts from prefabricated modules.

A traditional brick chimney includes the following elements: a neck for connecting to a furnace, a riser with valves, a slope, an otter, a neck (at the point of passage through the roof), a headband, and sometimes a metal cap.

Homemade chimneys made of metal or asbestos cement include pipes, caps, adapters for connecting to the furnace, and insulation.

Most modern views chimneys - ceramic and from. The ceramic structure consists of an external expanded clay concrete frame, an internal prefabricated ceramic pipe, and a layer of insulation between them. The ceramic and sandwich structures themselves include the following blocks: straight, for collecting condensate, tees, cleaning modules, transition elements for connecting heating units. An integral part of a modern chimney is a deflector.

Types and designs

The design features of the chimney primarily depend on the material from which they are made.

According to the material of the chimneys are:

• brick;
• reinforced concrete (usually industrial);
• asbestos-cement;
• of steel;
• ceramic;
• three-layer metal - two layers of steel with mineral wool insulation between them.

By design, chimneys are:

• indigenous - the design has its own foundation;
• wall-mounted, built-in bearing walls building;
• mounted - light pipes are mounted on a vertically located outlet pipe of a boiler or fireplace (and a potbelly stove);
• often lightweight structures are simply suspended from the supporting structures of the building;
• coaxial - arranged according to the "pipe in pipe" principle. The most common example is the horizontal gas outlets of gas heating boilers. It is used in devices with a closed combustion chamber and provides maximum safety for residents. Save fuel consumption. Recently, vertical structures of the Shidel system have appeared, taking air for combustion on the roof of the house (just below the head).

Which is better to choose

The choice of a chimney largely depends on the parameters of the installed heating unit (design, temperature, type of fuel used), the degree of readiness of the house (we are modernizing an old house with a stove and a wall pipe, the house is only “in the project” or the supporting structures have already been mounted, or there is already a finish) ; heated volumes.

Features of various types of chimneys are shown in the table:

Table 1

Name	Advantages	disadvantages
brick	Durable and high temperature resistant construction brickwork, durability - depending on the material of the liner.	Difficult installation requiring highly qualified masons; heavy weight, the need for a foundation; long installation time, the need to replace the insert approximately every 10 years. When working with modern boilers and fireplaces, a brick without an insert can collapse in just 10 years. Wall structures can only be mounted during the construction of the house.
Ceramic	Service life up to 50 years, smooth inner surface, high installation speed; high acid resistance, good thermal insulation; withstand temperatures up to 550°	Expensive option; installation requires some qualification, there is a need for a foundation; fragility
Steel single-layer (and asbestos-cement)	Smooth inner surface, light, inexpensive, fast installation, easy repair; resistance to corrosion and condensation	Requires insulation; when passing through structures made of combustible materials, large retreats are required; they burn out in 10-15 years, there are no components - during installation you will have to do all the elements yourself. Galvanized will last five years (or less)
Steel type "sandwich"	Long service life, smooth inner surface, light weight, quick easy installation, easy repair, high resistance to corrosion and condensation; can be installed / hung outside the building; good thermal insulation	Fairly expensive items.

It is not worth using flexible steel corrugation - they burn out very quickly.

Despite the price, it is worth choosing modern ceramic chimneys or "sandwich". If necessary, they can be mounted in finished house, and outside the home, they are durable, easy to assemble, resistant to high temperatures, well insulated, have a large range of ready-made factory elements.

If you want to use an old wall box from a conventional heating stove, you need to insert a stainless steel insert and insulate it. But perhaps you should choose a sandwich - less hassle.

Do it yourself or order

You can do it yourself some elements for the installation of single-layer pipes or lay out a brick structure (if you have the skills of a qualified bricklayer).

But the installation of prefabricated structures - this will help save a considerable amount from the family budget. You will have to pay a lot for the services of a qualified team - the amount is comparable to the cost of materials. There is a risk of running into unskilled workers.

When deciding whether to do the work yourself, you need to carefully analyze your capabilities:

• how accessible is the roof;
• Do you have friends or relatives who can help?
• do you have a fear of heights;
• What are your qualifications in performing repair work.

Building regulations

The arrangement of chimneys is determined by the provisions of SNiP 41-01-2003.

The design of the chimney must meet the following regulatory requirements:

• the minimum height must be at least 5,000 mm or grate;
• when located on a roof slope at a distance of less than 1.5 m to the ridge - the pipe must be 500 mm higher than the ridge;
• when located on a roof slope at a distance of 1.5-3 m to the ridge - the pipe must not be lower than the ridge;
• when located on a roof slope at a distance of more than 3 m to the ridge, the angle between the horizontal and the line passing through the ridge and the top of the pipe should be no more than 10 °;
• head should rise above flat roof to a height of at least 1,000 mm;

• the maximum length of each horizontal and inclined sections should not exceed 1000 mm, the total length of their projections on the horizontal should not exceed 2000 mm. In the presence of oblique and horizontal sections, it is necessary to lengthen the pipe by the length of the horizontal projections. For ceramics, the presence of horizontal sections is not allowed.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance from the surface of chimneys made of ceramic, insulated steel and asbestos-cement to combustible structures of the house must be at least 250 mm; for brick chimneys and sandwich pipe structures - at least 130 mm.

Need to protect building construction from combustible materials using cement or gypsum plaster on a grid with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

If the roof covering can burn (roofing material, shingles, ondulin), or leaves and fluff can accumulate on it, a mesh spark arrestor should be installed on the head.

Remember that the quality of smoke removal depends on the life and health of your loved ones.

Traction force

Factors affecting traction force:

• pipe height;
• the state of the surface of the internal channel - the regularity of cleaning from soot, the roughness of the walls;
• the presence of inclined or horizontal sections. The presence of horizontal and inclined sections is undesirable, since the lengthening of the chimney is undesirable - the gases will cool, the draft will decrease up to tipping over;
• deflector installation;
• quality of insulation;
• air supply to the furnace.

Your safety depends on the traction force, therefore it is necessary to regularly check the presence of traction and take measures to clean the channel from soot, the pipe head from ice.

Making and installing a chimney with your own hands

What materials are better to make

The easiest to install - steel structures. Single-layer steel products require insulation and the manufacture of components - in general, work for pathological workaholics, and here we will not consider their installation.

Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe is quite simple, the presence of a large number of various elements and components in stores allows you to assemble a device of any configuration.

Drawing and diagrams

Before starting work, determine the dimensions and draw a diagram or drawing - this will help to correctly calculate the required amount of materials and properly organize the work.

Size calculation

The height of the pipe is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003, but should not be lower than 5 m from the grate. The diameter is taken equal to the diameter of the outlet of the heater.

Installation video

Watch our video - it will help you see all the intricacies of the assembly process.

Mounting Features

Installation starts from the stove or fireplace. The first starting element is mounted on the nozzle of the boiler or furnace. This element is not insulated for technological reasons (alt-free filler is melted and sintered into stone). All elements are designed in such a way that one of its ends has a smaller diameter and is inserted one into the other, as into a socket. One of the docking options is to slightly pull out the inner pipe, insert it into another inner pipe. Press down. Then drop down on it outer pipe with a heater, press down. Fasten the connection with a crimp collar, tighten it with a bolt and nut. All joints must be sealed with sealant.

Then a tee is mounted, modules with a cleaning hatch and a condensate trap are mounted from below. There are designs for installing the lower part of the chimney on the floor.

Then mount the rest of the structure. After a meter, the sandwich is attached to the wall with special brackets. An element with a cleaning hatch should be installed on each floor and in the attic.

It is advisable to connect the elements of the chimney “through condensate” - the pipes are mounted in such a way that the upper one is inserted into the lower one and the condensate cannot seep through the joints, but flows down the walls into the trap.

An element with a gate is mounted under the ceiling.

The passage of the pipe in the ceiling is covered with a galvanized sheet and filled with insulation. The distance to the structures must be at least 130 mm.

The most difficult stage in the installation is the passage of the roof. Mark the hole in the right place on the roof. Make a hole in the roof. A roof sheet is attached from the inside, a roof cutting is installed on the roof. It is selected depending on the angle of the roof. The cutting edges lead under a sheet of roofing material.

If necessary, install extensions. Install deflector.

Common errors and installation problems

The most serious mistake is the lack of a condensate collector and elements with cleaning hatches.

In places where structures pass through ceilings, it is strictly forbidden to install joints of individual elements - leaking hot smoke can cause a fire.

A very significant mistake is the absence of a deflector or at least a cap over the chimney.

Snow and rain should not get inside the pipe - they increase the formation of condensate, ice can block the cross section of the pipe.

Maintenance and cleaning

Any chimney requires regular cleaning of soot. This will avoid fires, reduce traction. Cleaning should be done twice a year.

There are two cleaning methods - mechanical and chemical.

In a chemical furnace they burn special means. They burn at a very high temperature and accelerate the wear of the inner walls of the chimney, so it is better to use mechanical cleaning methods for a sandwich.

Icicles and frost from condensate can freeze on the head - they block the section of the box and reduce draft, which increases the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning for residents.

It is necessary to choose pipes in which the thickness of the outer metal layer is 1 mm (and not 0.5 mm). It is very easy to check - for a product with a thin wall, the wall bends if you squeeze it with your hands.

When installing sandwich structures, it is necessary to use a special sealant for high operating temperatures (automotive sealant with an operating temperature of 500 ° is not suitable).

If the pipe rises above the roof by more than one meter, it should be reinforced with stretch marks.

A potbelly stove is often used to heat temporary buildings, garages, greenhouses, utility rooms. But it also emits combustion products, a lot of smoke from burned wood or other fuels.

Therefore, you will need to decide how to make a chimney for a potbelly stove and where it is better to install it so that it is inexpensive and efficient. Especially since you can do it yourself. And everything is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

To make it easier for you to deal with the assembly and installation of the chimney, in this article we examined step by step process, starting with the choice of material and assembly and ending with a check of the operability of an already mounted system.

To use the potbelly stove, you will need to take care of the removal of smoke. To do this, you have to build a chimney, choosing the best material.

To carry out the work, you can invite specialists, or you can do everything on your own - especially since the amount of work is small.

Types of chimney pipes

Various materials are used for the manufacture of a pipeline for removing smoke.

Initially, depending on the material of manufacture, there are 2 options:

1. Take finished pipes manufactured at the factory;
2. Make pipes from stainless steel sheets or other sheet metal.

The cheapest way is to make pipes yourself. Here, the undoubted advantage is that the pipe will be of the desired diameter, which is especially important for home-made stoves.

For the chimney of a potbelly stove, you can independently make not only ordinary pipes, but also double - sandwich pipes. To do this, you need 2 pipes of different diameters and a heat-resistant insulation

The second advantage of homemade pipes is the cost. For their manufacture, you can use improvised material, or purchase metal sheets with a thickness of 0.6 mm or more. And better in 1 mm.

Moreover, it is possible to make an insulated pipe for the chimney by making 2 pipes of various diameters from sheets. Or take ready-made metal of different diameters. Apart from self-manufacturing pipes for the chimney, you can stop at a simpler and faster option - buy ready-made pipes from the right material.

An elementary option for assembling a chimney for a potbelly stove involves the use of ready-made steel pipes and corner element. A smoke channel is assembled from them and welded to a homemade stove:

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Having decided on the material of the future chimney, you can proceed to the purchase of all components and the construction of a correct and workable design.

Chimney construction instruction

The complexity of building a chimney for a potbelly stove depends on where exactly the stove will be installed. After all, cutting a hole in the roof is more difficult than passing a pipe through a window.

Therefore, the complexity and time of manufacturing the right chimney for a potbelly stove depends entirely on the individual characteristics of a particular household.

Stage # 1 - chimney assembly

The easiest option for building a chimney is if the potbelly stove is to be used on the street. It is important here to choose the optimal place for installing the stove so that flammable objects do not come into contact with it. And the pipes themselves must be heat-resistant.

For a potbelly stove on the street, it is enough to attach a pipe of the desired diameter, through which smoke will escape. This will increase traction and protect the user from exposure to smoke.

If the pipeline for smoke removal will be built indoors, then a number of safety rules must be observed that will help protect yourself and your loved ones from fire.

Firstly, the pipes must withstand high temperatures - preferably 1000 degrees Celsius and above. After all, the smoke released during the combustion of fuel in a potbelly stove can have a rather high temperature.

Secondly, it is important to position the stove itself so that it does not come into contact with surfaces that can catch fire. If the walls are finished with clapboard or plastic, then you have to complete additional work to protect yourself from a fire hazard.

The floor under the potbelly stove should be made of a material that is not capable of igniting. If a burning log accidentally falls out of the firebox, this will protect the room from fire.

Thirdly, the place where the pipe enters the ceiling or wall must be properly designed.

To do this, it is important to maintain a distance to nearby objects and walls - during the operation of the stove, the temperature of the pipe will increase and nearby objects may flare up.

It is important to carefully insulate all places where the chimney pipe comes into contact with wood, insulation or other combustible materials. Otherwise, the fire cannot be avoided.

Fourthly, only one potbelly stove can be connected to one chimney. For the second stove in the next room, it is better to lay a separate pipeline for the removal of smoke.

Stage # 2 - taking measurements

On the preparatory stage it is necessary to determine the required diameter of the pipes and their total length. First you need to calculate the diameter of the pipe. Correctly, if it is 2.7 times larger than the volume of the combustion chamber.

So, if the potbelly stove is 50 liters, then the diameter of the chimney should be: 50 * 2.7 = 135 mm. So, if you take a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, it will not cope with the emitted smoke. As a result, there will be weak traction and it is useless to expect effective work from such a potbelly stove.

In addition, the length of the future pipeline for smoke removal is to be measured. To do this, it is important to choose a permanent location for the potbelly stove in the room.

Then determine where the pipe will go outside. Important point- in the process of removing smoke in the chimney passing on the street, condensate will accumulate. Take care of its removal.

To remove condensate, you should install a tee that will help to cope with this problem.

Now we have to measure the distance of the pipeline on the street and do not forget that the chimney will rise, on average, 1.5 meters above the roof ridge.

It should also be foreseen that during the installation process, you will need elbows, tees, a passage glass, butt elbows, heat-resistant sealant, asbestos cord, pipes of the required diameter, or welding to connect all components into a single chimney structure.

All this must be purchased on time, when all measurements are taken. Availability necessary materials will allow you to proceed with the installation of the chimney for the potbelly stove.

It remains to be decided in advance where exactly the pipe will go outside:

• through the window;
• through the wall;
• through the ceiling.

This will determine where the hole is to be made. Most often, the pipe is allowed through a wall or ceiling. To ensure safety in this place, you have to buy a special passage unit - a glass. It is made of heat-resistant material that will protect against fire.

Stage # 3 - installation of all components of the structure

When it comes to a potbelly stove that works on the street, it is important to take a pipe of the required diameter corresponding to the branch pipe extending from the potbelly stove.

The chimney must be put on the pipe. This is important, because if you insert it into the pipe, then smoke can leak out at the junction. You don’t have to mount anything else - the potbelly stove can be used for cooking or heating food.

If we are talking about arranging a chimney in a utility room, in a garage or a greenhouse, then here the order of work will be more complicated. First you need to take a piece of pipe and carefully fix it on the chimney / pipe of the potbelly stove. It is important to put the pipe on this pipe.

Then you have to lengthen the pipeline using the elbow. The goal is to reach the wall/ceiling. A passage glass is already waiting here, through which the chimney will pass.

Around the passage glass, you need to remove insulation and other materials that can catch fire

Next, the pipeline goes to roof space and onto the roof or through the wall to the street. It is important here that the street pipe is insulated. Also, when the pipe goes outside, it is necessary to provide for the removal of condensate. To do this, put a tee and make an inspection window to simplify cleaning the chimney.

It is important to securely fix all connections, maintain a distance from walls and other objects that can easily catch fire.

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The cap for the chimney of a potbelly stove can be made independently using improvised materials. For this, a dense sheet of steel with a thickness of 5 mm or more will fit.

When the cap is installed, you can begin to check the performance of the entire chimney structure. To do this, you need to load the fuel, set it on fire and see how it will burn and how the smoke will go away.

If it begins to seep through any connection, then it is not airtight. This problem is to be corrected using heat resistant sealant or welding.

If the work is carried out with high quality and all joints are sealed, then the chimney will perfectly remove smoke. And there will be no smell of smoke in the room

Features of chimney maintenance

The chimney of the potbelly stove needs maintenance - inspection of the external state of the structure and cleaning of the internal space of the pipe. The frequency of maintenance depends entirely on the material.

If it is an asbestos-cement chimney, then it will have to be cleaned more often. All because of the rough inner surface of the pipe, where soot accumulates with a vengeance.

Also, an asbestos chimney, if installed to remove smoke from a potbelly stove, may soon become stained or completely torn during operation. This will lead to additional expenses - the chimney pipe will need to be replaced.

The spots that appear on the asbestos pipe not only create an unpleasant impression with their appearance, but are also harbingers of unpleasant odors.

For a metal chimney, the frequency of pipe cleaning is on average 1 time per year. It is also important to inspect the external condition of the material - it is quite possible that some areas may burn out.

To remove soot from a metal pipe, you can:

• burn aspen wood;
• treat burned logs with a special chemical composition which is easy to buy;
• make a hook for delicate removal of soot.

Compositions for getting rid of soot are easy to use. They do not require special skills - it is enough to treat the firewood with the agent from the bag and kindle the potbelly stove, as usual. Combustion products will not contain impurities harmful to health. This safe way cleaning metal pipes.

The consumption of the product and the method of applying it to the logs are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. It is important to read the instructions carefully and follow them clearly.

IN metal pipe, which removes smoke, soot most often accumulates in a section that runs horizontally.

Experienced users of such chimneys have found a convenient solution - to drill a small hole and build a hook-shaped structure to remove soot. With such a device, the pipe walls cannot be damaged, but it will be possible to clean the accumulated cinder.

The hook-shaped design is easy to manufacture, and it is quite convenient to use it. Most often this is a section of the pipeline located on the street.

A thorough inspection of the external condition of the chimney will allow you to diagnose in time the need to replace a particular section. Do not neglect this measure - after all, through the holes in the chimney, smoke will go into the room, and further operation of the heater will become impossible.

Regular cleaning of the internal walls of soot will help extend the life of the pipeline that removes smoke. Yes, and traction will always be at the right level, which has a positive effect on the efficiency of the potbelly stove.

There are also other articles on our site that provide detailed information on the best chimney cleaning methods and recommendations for choosing a cleaner. We invite you to familiarize yourself with them:

• To maintain the metal chimney of a potbelly stove, you can use a simple method of delicate physical cleaning:

  Making a chimney for a potbelly stove is not difficult if you approach the task responsibly and do everything right. Only in this case, a compact stove will serve for a long time, without requiring additional attention to itself.

  And the quality of its work will constantly delight, the main thing is to timely clean the chimney from soot and other combustion products.

  Do you use a potbelly stove equipped with a homemade chimney? Share your assembly experience and a photo of the finished chimney in the comment block. Tell us what material you used for the chimney and how difficult it was for you to make the chimney.