Instructions for installing metal tiles with your own hands. How to properly cover the roof with metal tiles How to install metal tiles

Choosing a roofing material is not an easy task. The roof must be reliable, beautiful, durable, and even, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are met by a roof made of metal tiles. To the pluses it must be added, not the most difficult installation, which even a person without experience in roofing can handle with his own hands.

Metal roofing - beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive

Types of metal tiles

The metal tile is formed from sheet metal with a thickness of 0.35-0.7 mm, on which protective and decorative compounds are applied. It turns out a multi-layered cake. The basis of this building material- most often steel, but there are options from copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have a high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are practically not found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.

There are both imported and domestic metal tiles on sale. The European version is strictly made of steel 0.5 mm thick - this is spelled out in the standard. In our GOST, it is allowed from 0.45 to 0.5 mm.

Besides different materials bases, a different protective coating is applied. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and alumina. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is he who provides better protection, although such processing costs a little more.

There are more different compositions for the topcoat, one that, along with protection against weathering, gives the material one color or another.

Types of protective and decorative external coatings

The outer covering of the metal tile performs two functions at the same time. It protects the base metal from corrosion and gives the material an attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coverage:

The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total roofs are covered with this type of material. This is because it has an average price and good characteristics. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet light and corrosion, but it is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when it comes off a large number snow. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfall. In other areas, it is advisable to install a snow retention system to prevent massive snow melting. If you cover the roof with such material, you need to be careful during installation.
Matt polyester (MPE) is made by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - the service life is 10-15 years, it can be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. The disadvantage of tiles with a matte polyester coating is a smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).
Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based compound. It has a beautiful structured surface, is applied in a layer of 200 microns, due to which the coating is resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride in the composition, this coating is prohibited.
Pural is a polyurethane-based coating with polymer additives. Available in glossy (PUR) and matt (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness - 50 microns, service life - up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage (worse than palstisol, but better than all others), it tolerates ultraviolet light and aggressive environments, and can be used for roofing on the seaside.
Pural is one of the most durable coatings
Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) - a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main plus is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very durable to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, resistance to fading, long service life - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.
The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride

It is clear that when building a house you don't want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the most cheap option- metal roofing with polyester coating. But this is not the most the best solution... Let's estimate. The service life of metal tiles with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, the average cost - with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm - about 260 rubles / m 2, with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm - 440 rubles / m 2. Even roofing material will last 10 years, the price of a square for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let's take a very good option - with a pural coating. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles / m2 to 635 rubles / m2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service it will be 12-17 rubles / m 2. The difference is obvious. And this is without taking into account the work on the roof covering, and this is also time and money.

Profile types

When laying metal tiles, its geometric dimensions and wave parameters are important - the crate is calculated and mounted under them. Also, the wave height determines the degree of stiffness of the sheet - at high wind loads, a material with a high wave (more than 50 mm) is required - the toughest, in normal conditions metal tiles with a small wave (less than 50 mm) are suitable.

The waveform can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a few different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (useful width of the sheet of metal tiles, the amount of overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.

Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from the Monterrey profile. It has a rounded, slightly asymmetrical waveform. There are 7 subspecies with different wave parameters.

The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofs are made of it. It is formed by straight lines and has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on the roofs of complex shapes with a lot of broken lines.

This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads - the wave height is small, the loads can withstand medium.

Another 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. It resembles the classic semicircular shingles more than anyone else. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced drops.

The profile is designed so that the joint is on the wave wall, it is practically invisible. The impression of a monolithic roofing.

Sheet sizes and wave parameters of Andalusia metal tiles

If we talk about color, then, depending on the type of coating, shades are usually from 20 to 40 pieces. Choose the one that suits your taste best. The service life or other characteristics do not depend on the color, although it is believed that dark colors fade faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and pigment, but not on the color.

Calculation of the amount of metal tiles

To calculate the required number of sheets of material, you first need to determine the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - the exact dimensions of the material itself will be needed, and each profile has its own. Then you need to make accurate measurements of the slopes - length, height, if any, you need to measure all the protrusions or other decorative elements that will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof is of a complex shape, it is better to draw its plan, put down all the dimensions and then sit down for the calculations.

Number of rows

It is best not to look for metal roofing in shops or markets. It is advisable to contact the manufacturer directly. The point is not only in the price - it may not be very different, but in the fact that many workshops / factories offer to cut sheets of the required sizes. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (taking into account the eaves).

This option is good because the metal roofing will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chances for a leak. The second plus is the minimum amount of waste and less material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters are saved). Cons - difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets upward, inconvenient stacking.

When using sheets standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by the useful length of the sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after the horizontal overlap value has been subtracted from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot get into the under-roof space. On roofs with an angle of inclination up to 12 °, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm, with a slope from 12 ° to 30 °, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30 ° - 100-150 mm. A given amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the "useful length".

An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on the roof... Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet - 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round up to an integer - we get 2 rows. In this case, only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since this piece cannot be used anywhere else.

Number of sheets in a row

Take the length of the slope and divide by the useful width of the sheet. This parameter is specified in technical characteristics to the metal tile. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). The resulting number is rounded up, we get the number of sheets in a row.

An example of calculating metal sheets in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet is 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but round up to a larger integer and get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.

Features of hip roofs

Have hip roofs slopes are triangular or trapezoidal. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet - in order to minimize the amount of waste.

The height is selected so that no more than half of it is wasted. It is quite difficult to do it manually, and still there is a significant error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculating with the help of programs. They are usually available from vendors and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and at home to first measure the parameters of the roof (or call a measurer), and then try to choose the dimensions yourself. Then it will be possible to compare the quantity necessary material calculated by you and proposed.

Determination of the number of additional elements

A roof made of metal tiles requires a large number of various additional elements (extras) that shape the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjoining roof slopes). The more complex the shape of the roof, the more voluntary is required. With a simple gable roof, ridge elements and plugs, cornice and pediment strips will be needed. That's all.

What are the additional elements for metal roofing and why are they needed?

Despite the wide variety of addons, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface to be mounted on and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result is rounded up.

What and how to attach

The metal tiles are fixed with special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. As well as the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and on top are painted to match the coating. When installing, the self-tapping screw must be screwed strictly perpendicular to the roof surface, its inclination is not allowed.

When fixing the metal tile, you must also pay attention to how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. It is impossible to tighten too much, bending the metal, but also a loose fit must not be allowed - the connection will not be airtight.

Lathing for metal tiles

Metal tile is a rather rigid material, therefore a sparse crate is made under it, which consists of slats that are located along the eaves of the roof.

What material

If the roof made of metal tiles has simple design, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) with a width of 100 mm goes to the crate. On a roof with a complex shape or in regions with heavy snow loads, it is better to use a plank of 32 mm thickness or a beam of 50-50 mm. The beam is also used with a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).

Sheathing step

Installation of metal tiles on the roof has one important feature. The profile has the strongest place - under the step of the wave in the hollow. It is here that you need to tighten the self-tapping screw. The lathing must be made so that the middle of the plank is just under this place. This is what causes difficulties: the profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own step of installing the battens. This value can be determined by measuring the existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tile.

There are several important points lathing devices for metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the step height for this profile is added to the selected plank thickness. In addition, this bar is made wider than all the others - a drip will be attached to it, which closes the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.

Also note that the second plank is not packed with a standard, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step when installing the last plank near the ridge also differs - it is obtained in fact, as well as the height of the plank. We remind you that there should be large enough gaps in the ridge area - and the lathing and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for proper ventilation of the attic.

Installation procedure and features

Before you cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:

First of all, you need to take care of proper storage- in ventilated stacks, arranged in bars.
When cutting, do not use a grinder (grinder), but only cut with a jigsaw or metal scissors. The grinder overheats the metal, which causes the zinc to evaporate, and the material will begin to rust at the cut points.
Begin laying the sheets from the lower right corner (there is a diagram of the installation of metal tiles in the photo below).
When installing, wear soft, well-fitting shoes, step only on the lower part of the wave.

Next, we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the type chosen, the order of work changes - when arranging a warm attic, two more layers are added - insulation and a vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room.

Cold metal roofing

This type of roof is suitable if the attic is planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect it from precipitation and wind. The order of work is as follows:

Warm roof

When installing an insulated roof made of metal tiles, more is added to the roofing pie. thermal insulation material, which is attached between the rafters, and a vapor barrier film, which is stuffed onto the rafters from the attic side. Further, the entire installation process is similar.

How to attach sheets

When we cover the roof with metal tiles, the screws must be correctly positioned. There are several rules to follow:

Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Also, fasteners are installed in the places of horizontal and vertical joints.
The waves between the horizontal joints are fastened through one in a checkerboard pattern.

These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. In a graphic representation, some things are easier to understand.

Despite the fact that it is quite difficult to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, and the work requires special thoroughness, it is quite possible to complete them without outside help.

Construction of a rafter system with an insulated attic

Since the mass of a metal roof is large enough, the rafter system under it must withstand significant pressure. For rafter beams, beams are taken in sizes from 100x50 to 150x50mm with a wood moisture content within 22%.

The step between them is chosen from 60 to 90 cm. If the system was originally built under a different roof and the step between the beams is higher than indicated, a reinforcing lathing is stuffed across the beams.

Installation of roofing films, lathing and eaves must be done with extreme care in choosing materials carefully. The strength and durability of the roof itself depends on the correct construction of the under-roof "pie". It includes not only the rafter skeleton, but also a thermal and moisture protection system.

Vapor barrier and insulation

On the inside of the rafters, a vapor barrier is knocked out with the help of stainless brackets or nails. It prevents the internal moisture of the house from getting on the loose layer of insulating material. On top of the vapor barrier film, between the rafters, an insulation material is laid, for example, VAL-FLAX (Teplolen).

On top of it, waterproofing is laid, retaining water, but allowing water vapor to pass through.

Features of installation of waterproofing

The waterproofing rolls out horizontally, parallel to the cornice, starting from the bottom. Each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one. The overlap is 150-200 mm. The waterproofing is attached to the rafters with wooden counter battens. Their dimensions are 25 * 50 mm. The planks are stitched with nails or staples. The waterproofing should not be too tight, otherwise it will tear from temperature changes in length. The slack of the blade is about 10mm.

Roof waterproofing should not touch the insulation. The size of the gap between it and waterproofing membrane is 3-5 mm. This design allows moisture to flow down the membrane without hindrance, directly into the gutter.

Lathing, valley and eaves

The crate is stuffed perpendicular to the counter-rails. The extreme purlins, installed along the line of the cornice, should have a height of 10-15 mm higher than others. It serves as a stop for the lower step of the first row of metal tiles. The bar abuts against the protrusion formed by the bottom row of the profile pattern. This ensures that the projecting edge of the sheet is positioned above the gutter.

The second batten is installed at a distance of the height of the profile of the metal tile step. It should hit the bottom of the first step. For the second and subsequent purlins, a bar is taken from 25x100 to 35x100 mm. The edges of the prepared lathing are leveled, and the hanging ends are cut off.

Installation of the cornice strip

The eaves plank is stuffed over the first purlins in such a way as to protect the frontal board from moisture ingress. It is fastened with galvanized nails at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The outlet of the bottom edge of the waterproofing is freely placed on the eaves.

Installation of the valley

Endova is a metal V-shaped profile for laying in places of internal fracture of the roof slope connection. Endova protects the joints of the slopes from moisture penetration under the roof and on the insulation layer. Consists of two elements: top and bottom.

Bottom - mounted before laying the metal tile at the break point. It is through this element that the water from the roof flows down into the gutter. The upper valley is installed on top of the tiles and serves for decorative purposes. Both are fastened with self-tapping screws. When screwing on the upper valley, it is imperative to check that the self-tapping screw does not fall into the central part of the lower one. The fixing step is 300-500 mm.

Roof installation always starts from the bottom row. The best way- if the height of the sheet is equal to or longer than the height of the roof slope. Then the roof surface is covered in one pass, and the number of joints on it is minimal.

Features of the structure of a sheet of metal

The right and left edge of the tile has different heights profile. This is done to better fit the metal when overlapping. The manufacturer always indicates which edge is installed under the bottom and which is on top.

The metal roof tiles are quite heavy, so the sheets are fed upward with the help of ropes along inclined boards. In this case, it is important not to bend them, therefore it is better to lift them on two ropes, in four hands, respectively.
Carrying out the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, the fastening is carried out with roofing self-tapping screws, complete with sealing polymer gaskets. The color of the screw is matched to the tone of the roof. You cannot nail the metal tile with nails - they gradually loosen, the sheet begins to vibrate and collapse in this place.
The lower edge of the sheet is set with a 50 mm overhang. Then moisture flows from the roof directly into the gutter and does not fall on the wall of the building.
It is recommended to first grab the first two or three sheets to the ridge with one screw. After leveling the bottom line and adjusting the relative position of the sheets, they are thoroughly reinforced with screws along the entire length. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower part of the profile wave, and in the overlap areas - along the ridge.
6-8 attachment points are required per square meter of sheet. At the edges, along the eaves of the roof and at the ridge, fastening is done through the wave. Along the overlap line - under each peppered ridge of the pattern.

End plate

This bar is screwed to the end plate. The latter should protrude above the roof lathing to the height of the profile according to the pattern of the metal sheet. The plank is attached to the end plate from above and from the side. At the joints, the overlap of adjacent elements should be from 7 to 10 millimeters.

The chimney bypass is made of metal to match the color of the roof tiles. Usually, the outline is made of 4 elements - right, left, bottom and top. Depending on the design, it can be a simple top or bottom.

In the first case, the bypass fits under the shingles. Its design provides for a special groove that diverts water to the drain. The joints of the apron to the pipe are covered with a special sealant with a high level of heat resistance, for example, Loctite, Henkel, Macroflex.

The top rim is laid over the roof tiles. The place of contact with the chimney is also necessarily sealed, as well as the upper part (to prevent the ingress of water along the profile of the tile). It is advisable to sew the bypass apron to the chimney with metal dowels.

Installation of the ridge strip

The roof ridge is important element ventilation roof space... It protects metal and wooden elements from moisture and is a very important condition for a long service life of the roof. Roof air, heated by the heat of the roof, naturally rises from the eaves to the ridge.

There it goes outside through the ventilation technological gaps. Manufacturers of metal tiles offer various designs of ridge elements and give their recommendations for their installation. Fastening of the roof ridge is done with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 300-400 mm along the crests of the waves of the sheet profile. The overlap of adjacent ridge strips is 7-10 mm.

Outcome

Work with metal roof tiles is considered one of the most expensive. Therefore, many owners of private houses cover the roof themselves. A do-it-yourself roof made of metal tiles will thank the owners with reliability and many years of trouble-free service.

If you do not dare to self-assembly and entrust it to a specialist, then the knowledge gained will allow you to control the process and skills of the workers, which, as a result, can become a guarantee of the quality of your home in the future.

The question of how to properly lay the metal tile is asked by the majority of developers who have decided to choose this practical, modern and durable material when building a house. This article will talk about how the installation of metal tiles is carried out - the instructions will tell you about all the intricacies and nuances of doing this work.

The article also talks about the construction of a roofing pie, materials, tools, and much more required for the construction of a roof.

The scheme "metal tiles - installation - instructions" used in the article can be useful both for developers and for the builders themselves, both when building a house and when performing such work as erecting a canopy from metal tiles.

Installation technology

Before proceeding with the installation of metal tiles, you can watch or download on the Internet a video - installation of metal tiles, but first of all, we will consider the scheme and basic principles of the device of the so-called roofing pie for metal tiles.

This name is associated with a large number of layers, each of which performs a specific function.

Subject to the correct selection of materials, as well as the calculation and installation, it is this structure that makes the roof made of metal tiles the most reliable and durable.

Regardless of how the instructions will be applied - the installation of the metal tile is planned to be carried out with your own hands or with the invitation of hired workers, you should be aware that the roof is quite complex design, during the construction of which it is important to strictly follow the recommendations of manufacturers for the installation of metal roofing, as well as to all building regulations and regulations.

Once again, we remind you that it is recommended to watch the video - installation of metal tiles, and the entire process of installation itself should be constantly monitored, since poor-quality work may not be revealed immediately, but during operation.

For example, poor-quality installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier can lead to the accumulation of condensate, a decrease in the quality of thermal insulation and rotting of wooden structural elements.

Important: a reliable and durable roof can be built only in full compliance with all the rules, which include the instruction: installation of metal tiles.

Rafter system;
Counterrails;
Waterproofing film;
Bars of vertical sheathing;
The starting bar of the horizontal crate;
Bars of horizontal lathing;
Additional lathing;
Wind board;
Gutter bracket;
Cornice strip;
Metal tiles;
Roofing ridge;
Ridge seal;
Dormer window;
Thermal insulation material;
Vapor barrier material;
Attic filing.

The figure shows the installation diagram of the metal tile, in accordance with which the works described below are performed.

But first you need to figure out what tools will be used to install the coating.

Tools and equipment

This instruction: metal tiles - installation describes the process of installing metal tiles using the example of the Monterrey brand and similar ones, the installation of other brands in general is carried out according to the same principle, distinctive features will be discussed at the end of the article.

To complete the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tool for cutting sheets of metal tiles;
Screwdriver, preferably with batteries;
Medium hammer;
Rule or even long rail;
Marker.

In order to cut sheets, manufacturers advise using the following tools:

Manual or electric scissors for metal;
Hacksaw or reciprocating electric saw with the required blades;
Cut-through electric shears;
Electric jigsaw;
Circular saw with teeth from Pobedit.

After the cutting of the sheets is completed, you should remove various sawdust, which, by rusting, can damage the polymer coating of the metal tile.

Important: when cutting sheets of metal, do not use a tool with abrasive cutting wheels, such as a grinder.

In this case, exposure to high temperatures will lead to the destruction of the zinc and polymer coating of the material, which will subsequently cause a corrosive process, as a result of which rusty smudges will appear on the roof.

Installation instructions

Useful: while laying long sheets reduces the number of joints, the installation process itself is much more difficult than laying shorter sheets with an overlap.

Freezing of the roof;
Ice formation on metal tiles;
Rotting of the battens and rafters;
Destruction of interior decoration.

In order to avoid the listed unpleasant consequences, the rules for installing metal tiles are recommended to use heat-insulating material of the required thickness.

In addition, when installing metal tiles, it is imperative to protect the insulation material from the side of the metal tile - with the help of a waterproofing film, from the side of the interior - with a vapor barrier film.

Removal of wet vapors from the space under the roof is ensured by the creation of natural ventilation, which is the free movement of air masses from the eaves to the ridge of the roof.

To do this, a gap of about 40 mm should be left between the waterproofing film and the metal tile using the crate. When hemming the overhangs of the eaves, gaps should be left on them, as well as the special holes in the rubber seal on the ridge should be released.

Useful: in the case of Yutavek and Tyvek films, the thermal insulation can be installed without a gap.

The lathing is made of beams or edged boards, treated with antiseptic preparations. The recommended cross-section of beams is 50x50 mm, for boards - 100x32 mm.
The installation of the lathing is carried out in several stages:

On the rafters on top of the waterproofing film, beams are nailed down, falling from the ridge to the eaves. Sheathing boards are attached to these bars;
The first lathing board from the eaves should be approximately 10-15 mm thicker than the rest. Next, you must observe the correct distance between the boards;
In the case of the Monterrey metal tile, the installation instructions: the metal tile prescribes to install the second board with an indent from the bottom edge of the first one by 300 mm (the measurement is taken from the middle of the second board to be nailed down), for the Maxi metal tile this distance is 350 mm;
The distances between the axes of the lathing boards, nailed in the future, are for different brands of metal tiles: for "Monterrey" and "Supermonterrey" - 350 mm, for "Maxi" - 400 mm.

Important: if the rafter pitch exceeds 1000 mm, thicker boards should be used for the lathing.

Solid sheathing is performed in places such as valleys, chimneys, auditory perimeter and roof windows... An additional two are nailed on both sides of the ridge. edged boards, while the end strips rise to the height of the metal tile profile above the ordinary crate.

Installation of metal tiles. Endova

Before the metal tile is laid, the instruction provides for attaching the lower plank of the valley with self-tapping screws to the continuous crate along the inner junction of the slopes.
If it is necessary to join the strips, an overlap of 100-150 mm is made. Next, markup is carried out and, if necessary, cutting of sheets of metal tiles.
Installation of metal tiles is carried out from the bottom up (see fig.). The upper joint of the sheets rarely has an attractive appearance, therefore, a decorative element is installed on top of it, for example, the upper plank of the valley.

Important: the weakest point of the roof is the abutment nodes. In order to avoid subsequently repairing the roof, their device is instructed: metal tiles must be performed with special care.

The tight abutment of the metal-tile roof to the walls on the slopes and chimneys is carried out using an internal apron made using the lower abutment strips:
- The bar is applied to the pipe wall, after which its upper edge is marked on the brick;
- With the help of a grinder, a strobe is punched along the drawn line, after which it is necessary to remove the dust and rinse this area with water;
- The installation of the inner apron begins on the wall of the pipe, which is located in the lower part of the slope, that is, on the side of the cornice. The bar is trimmed in place, installed and fastened with self-tapping screws;
- The installation of the apron is carried out in the same way on all the remaining sides of the pipe;
- If it is necessary to join the strips, an overlap of approximately 150 mm is made. The edge of the apron, wound in the strobe, should be processed silicone sealant, preferably colorless;
- Further, a tie is put into the space under the lower edge of the inner apron - a flat sheet that provides a drain of water. The tie can be directed either into the valley or down to the eaves. Along the edges of the tie, a side is made with a hammer and pliers;
- Sheets of metal tiles are mounted over the tie and apron;
- After laying the roofing around the chimney pipe, the manufacture and installation of the outer apron, made using the upper abutment strips, begin;
- The upper strips are installed in the same way as the lower ones, but the upper edge does not start in the groove, but is attached directly to the wall.
Important: when moving on a metal roofing, all necessary safety measures should be observed.

Metal tile: installation instructions prescribes to wear comfortable and soft non-slip shoes and step only in wave deflections. In addition, an installer's belt and harness should be used.
- The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and fixed at the top with one self-tapping screw.
  At the same time, near the eaves, a take-out (metal-tile visor) of about 40 mm should be made. The second sheet is laid with an overlap of the first one during installation from right to left, or its edge is brought under the first sheet in the case of installation from left to right.
- The sheets are fastened to each other using self-tapping screws at the upper overlap point, while they should not be screwed to the crate under the metal tile - it should be possible to freely move the sheets relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the ridge part.
- The third sheet is laid in the same way as the second, after which the sheets fastened together are aligned parallel to the eaves.
  If it is necessary to dock the sheets along the length, the order of their stacking, shown in Figure B.
Important: if there is a protective film on the metal tile, be sure to remove it before installation.

Important: when purchasing metal tiles, you need to find out the conditions of the guarantee for the material.

Many manufacturers provide a guarantee for metal tiles only with the condition of using a certain brand of self-tapping screws, therefore it is recommended to purchase self-tapping screws from the supplier along with the material itself.
1. When installing ventilation elements, first of all, a hole is drawn in the metal tile and cut according to the template.
  Further, silicone is applied to the passage element, after which the structure is attached to the metal tile using self-tapping screws.
  The ventilation outlet is inserted into the passage element, leveled vertically with a level and also fastened with self-tapping screws.
  To connect the hood and the indoor air duct, a corrugated pipe is used, passed through the roof pie, after which the passage is sealed with adhesive tape.
2. For the installation of ladders, brackets are used in the amount of 4 pieces per 1 section.
  They are put on the ladder posts and fixed with M8x40 bolts.
  The brackets are fastened to the roof surface in the deflections of the waves with the help of Ш8х60 bolts, and the places of their abutment are sealed.
  Along the length of the roof slope, the ladder is recruited in sections, the uppermost of which is attached to the ridge beam with special brackets.
Important: if there are skylights above them, it is also necessary to install snow holders.

Installation of other types of metal tiles

Above, the general procedure for the construction of a metal-tile roof was considered, we will consider the main nuances during installation certain types material.

The figure shows that the pitch of the lathing during the installation of metal tiles of the Kaskad brand differs from the pitch for the Elite and Monterrey brands. These differences are due to differences in the dimensions of the material profile.

When installing metal tiles of the Andalusia brand, which has a Z-shaped lock, you should also take into account your own nuances. The locking part of this brand has perforations that simplify positioning of the sheet on the roof and its fastening.

In this case, the fasteners are hidden, which makes it possible to make the joints of the sheets almost invisible.

When purchasing a metal tile, you should find out various subtleties about a specific type of material, and when performing installation, it is important to follow the rules and requirements described in this manual. This will allow you to build a reliable and durable metal roofing.

Metal tiles are sheets of steel, copper or aluminum, profiled using cold pressure. The profile shape resembles ceramic tiles... This material is pleasing to the eye, affordable and durable. It is not difficult to figure out how to cover the roof with metal tiles, and by refusing the services of builders, you can save a lot.

Features of using metal tiles

The roof slope angle is set at least 14 degrees.
Noise during precipitation requires additional sound insulation.
Metal tile with polymer coating withstands the effects of an aggressive environment and temperature changes, but the cut sites require careful staining.
When cutting material for a complex roof, a lot of scraps are left.
You cannot use a grinder to cut sheets, as the high temperature spoils the coating.

Material characteristics

In order not to be mistaken with the choice of material, it is worth finding out its main characteristics.

The height of the wave and the thickness of the steel affect the rigidity of the metal tile, high rates(50‒70 mm) will provide a reliable roof covering, but such a sheet will cost more.
Profile type - symmetrical, asymmetrical, less often trapezoidal.
The type of protective coating that provides anti-corrosion protection: zinc, aluminozinc, iron-zinc, etc. Reliable corrosion protection is provided by a significant zinc layer; to reduce its thickness, alloying additives are used.
The decorative polymer layer creates a striking appearance and increases corrosion resistance.

Polyester is an inexpensive, versatile coating available in matte or glossy finish. Flexible and resistant to weather conditions, the material is afraid of mechanical damage.

Plastisol is a thick embossed layer of polyvinyl chloride up to 200 microns. It has good wear resistance and is immune to mechanical stress and corrosion. Its disadvantage is damage when heated. The material is not recommended for use in hot regions.

Pural - with an average thickness of 50 microns, it provides resistance to temperature shocks, corrosion, and aggressive environments. When installing sheets with such a coating, care should be taken, it is subject to plastic deformation.

PVDF is a compound of acrylic and polyvinyl fluoride, with a thickness of 27 microns, it is highly resistant to damage, longest term use, resistant to fading.

The choice of color for metal tiles is quite extensive. Among the popular colors, the shades that are used in the production of natural tiles: graphite, terracotta, moss green, oxide red. The choice of roof color should be approached responsibly, it has a significant impact on the overall architecture of the house.

Metal tile manufacturers place detailed instructions... Caring for the future roof begins with the correct placement of profiled sheets, they should be stacked on pallets. You need to wear soft shoes to move around the finished metal tile. You should step on the concave part of the wave. The shavings are removed from the surface of the sheet with a soft brush, taking care not to damage the coating.

scissors for metal;
marker and tape measure;
screwdriver;
hammer;
rake rule.

Roof insulation and waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary to protect the inside of the roofing sheets from condensation and to create a barrier against possible leakage. The vapor barrier film is laid with an overhang of the first row from the side of the eaves by 20 mm, a sag of up to 20 mm is left between the rafters. All rows are joined with an overlap of 15 cm and glued with tape. The film is fixed with a stapler or nails. To insulate the roof, especially if the attic is used, insulation is laid between the rafters: basalt mats or mineral wool.

Provide insulation protection and wooden structure it is possible with the help of waterproofing material, which is attached to the outer part of the rafters, and a vapor barrier film laid on the inside. Between the film and the insulation, as well as between the film and the metal tile, a gap is left for ventilation. To remove moisture from the inside of the roof, gaps are made on the overhangs and ridge.

Frame installation

For the manufacture of the frame, coniferous wood is preferable. It should be well dried and treated with an antiseptic to prevent decay. The lathing will become the supporting base for metal sheets; for it, a beam of 50 × 50 mm in size or a board of 100 × 25 mm is used. The first board nailed to the cornice is chosen 1.5 cm thicker than the rest, the second one is taken as a regular one, but it is attached 5 cm closer than the next step of the lathing. The rest of the boards are attached to the rafters at a distance equal to the transverse profile of the tiles: 30 cm, 40 cm, 45 cm. Galvanized nails are used for fixing. A solid crate is made at the ridge and in the valleys to strengthen the structure. The end strip is nailed above the general level to the wave height of the metal tile.

Before installing the tiles, the geometry of the slope is checked, the size of the diagonals is measured and compared. If done correctly, it should be the same.

Laying metal tiles

Work on begins with fixing the eaves strip on the first thick board, it is assembled with an overlap of 10 cm. When installing a gable roof, the installation of tiles begins from the end. If the hipped roof option is selected, then the installation starts from the top point and is carried out in two directions. The removal of the metal sheet along the cornice is 40 mm, its upper part is temporarily fixed on one self-tapping screw.

Installation of the next sheet is carried out with an overlap on the first when laying the material from right to left, if the work starts from the other side, then the sheet starts up under the wave of the previous one. Two adjacent sheets are connected to each other, but not attached to the crate, so that they can be aligned if necessary.

The third sheet of metal tile is mounted by analogy with the second. All fastened sheets are aligned with a line parallel to the eaves of the roof. After fitting, the tiles are thoroughly fixed with self-tapping screws. The lower part is fixed in each deflection of the profile. The joints of the sheets are fixed through the wave. If the roof slope has a length of more than six meters, it is more convenient to perform installation from cut sheets, laying them with an overlap.

In the valleys, a bent steel sheet 120 cm wide is attached to a solid crate.In this place, the sheets of metal tiles are cut off at an angle, and then closed decorative element, which is fastened with self-tapping screws in upper part waves at a distance of 30 cm. For fixing, special self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets are used.

The end plate must be fixed on the end board with an overlap of 7-10 cm. To ensure a tight abutment of the metal tile to the chimney, walls or dormer windows, a steel sheet is used, the top plate of which is adjacent to the structure. The junction of the wall and the metal strip is covered with sealant. Snow holders securely attached to the roof will help to avoid dangerous snow melt from the roof.

To create ventilation holes, the top edges do not fit closely. The roof ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws 80 mm long through one wave of the tile. A special seal is placed under it to protect it from birds and snow.

The order of performing the work is available in the video. Working according to the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently assemble reliable protection for your home.

Video: step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles

Roofing is a very important part of building a home. The installation of metal tiles can be easily done by hand, the whole technology consists in the correct arrangement of the lathing and the sequence of work.

Preparatory work

Installation of metal roofing begins with the preparation of the lathing. It should be performed with a certain step and have a slope of no more than 12 degrees. This is necessary to ensure normal drainage from the roof. This rule is observed both for a simple gable roof, and for a mansard, hip (hip), hip and single-pitched roof. For a broken line and a chalet, the slope is selected separately. To install the battens are used wooden blocks, the section of which is not less than 25 mm.

Tips for correct installation lathing:

The tree must be treated with antiseptic agents. This will extend its service life and guarantee protection against destruction under the influence of water and steam;
Additional reinforcement of the rafters is not required. Due to the low weight of the metal tile, the standard rigidity of the base is quite enough;
The spacing between the beams is from 350 to 500 mm. It depends on the type of material used. For example, if Andalusia or Rannila metal tiles are used, then step 350 is used for them, for Sierra, Arsenal and Unicma up to 400, etc .;
Sheathing nodes can consist of both self-tapping screws and nails. For large cross-sections, it is preferable to use nails;
It is important to ensure that the beams do not bend. Otherwise, when installing metal panels, deformation of the cover is likely. It will be impossible to eliminate geometric errors when the tiles are installed. A complete dismantling of the coating will be required.

After installing the sheathing under the metal tiles of Monterrey, Ruukki (Ruukki), Dune or Takotta, the insulation is installed. Tile roofs are of two types: cold and warm. Cold is, accordingly, without insulation. The same technology is used for siding or corrugated roofing. Its peculiarity is that it equips itself in the presence of uninhabited attic... V mansard roofs a warm roof is being set up.

For a warm roof, a seal is installed in the gaps between the sheathing beams. It can be mineral wool, polystyrene or penoizol. In this case, the insulation must be additionally covered with a waterproofing film. These recommendations may vary depending on the type of roofing required.

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting work, a technological map is drawn up. This is a special document in which all the necessary types of work are indicated and calculated. It can be compiled by yourself or with the help of professionals.

Video: Installation of metal tiles - detailed video instruction

This takes into account the area and slope of the roof, facing work, the installation of additional elements (snow retainers, gutters) and the sequence in which these installation roofing works are performed.

Step-by-step instructions and a diagram of how the installation of metal tiles is carried out:

The calculation of the roofing system is made. The required thickness of the beams, their location and pitch are established. The step of the beams is selected so that when the sheets of the depression are installed, their waves fall on the beams. Moreover, if you plan to install a chimney or install a roof window in a metal tile, then there should be no rafters in this area at all;
The order of the roof layers is as follows: vapor barrier, insulation (if required), waterproofing, metal tiles. A vapor barrier film is mounted on the surface of the beams treated with an antiseptic. It is attached with small nails;
After that, the selected insulation is installed on top of it. For composite modular shingles, it is recommended to use lightweight materials - pressed wool, foam;
Another film is laid on top of the insulation. Waterproofing is needed because the metal roof is not airtight. Water and snow often get into the gaps between the panels, which in the future can cause the destruction of the roofing system;
Basic rules for covering: work is done from the lower right corner, all panels are exposed along the first row, you need to try to achieve adhesion of the tiles to the ends of the walls. The metal profile is installed using self-tapping screws. Of course, other components can also be used, but self-tapping screws provide the most durable and rigid fastening;
Each sheet is leaned against the beam and connected to it with 2 self-tapping screws. Up to 4 fasteners per panel. The elements are laid with an overlap of up to 10 mm. Such a device makes it possible to ensure the greatest tightness of the coating;
Tiles of a special shape are used for the ridge. It is installed with a 10 mm overlap. This indicator may vary, depending on what type of coverage is used;
For the device of the chimney and roof windows, additional strips will be needed. They can represent the classic valleys for the installation of metal tiles, but cut to fit the size of the hole. They are installed on all corner joints where metal tiles adjoin additional elements;
After that, the installation of the wind and end strip for the cornices is carried out. The wind turbine is installed on the protruding rafter legs from the facade of the roof, closing the openings under the equipped roof from wind and rain. The end strip is used in the same way, but only on the end surface of the roof. Both metal profiles and siding can be used here;
After that, the installation of a drip, gutters and other additional elements is carried out. On this, the construction of the roof can be considered complete.

This guide is subject to change depending on the type of roof tile, roofing type and individual needs.

Price overview

Consider the cost of installing Cascade metal tiles in different cities. The minimum prices start at $ 25 per square meter, while much depends on the roof area.

Town	Mera System installation cost, cu e. / m 2
Moscow	27
Voronezh	25
Yekaterinburg	25
Kazan	25
Minsk	27
Omsk	25
Saint Petersburg (SPb)	27
Samara	25

The price for services varies by city and specific company. Therefore, when choosing an installation company, we recommend comparing several companies in your city.