What do you need in order to build a quality mansard roof with your own hands? Attic floor - we are building a house with an attic floor on our own We are building an attic

Attic called the roof, under which the living rooms are equipped. The shape of the mansard roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under gable roof. The most rational solution that allows you to get the maximum usable area of \u200b\u200ba residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular one, as well as the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
Racks - vertical supports supporting the truss system;
Runs - horizontal supports for rafters;
Rigel - transverse horizontal elements that pull the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
Suspension - a suspension rack that supports puffs and redistributes the load between the rafters;
Sheathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing over them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
Filly - boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross section of the roof elements is determined by calculation, the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

The device of a broken mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have a different shape of opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume of the attic space is significantly increased. The lower part of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as a frame. internal walls. Top part rafters are most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks resting on floor beams, purlins and puffs connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, to strengthen the truss and eliminate the sagging of the crossbars, hanging supports - grandmas are installed. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with racks using contractions. The elements are fastened with nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the mansard roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic device is the height of the ceilings - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the mansard roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the inner lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finishing floors.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and the construction of the roof, it is necessary to draw a detailed drawing, which will indicate the overall dimensions of the house, the line of slopes and the height of the attic.

Drawing - mansard roof dimensions

The technology of erecting a broken mansard roof

Install the Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the upper beam or log serves as the Mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - structures, the Mauerlat beam is attached to studs or anchors fixed in the walls during masonry at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The Mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, the wall remaining outside is later laid with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber from dry softwood usually has a section of 100 or 150 mm. Saw off the beam of the desired length, straighten the anchor studs if necessary and lay the beam on top of them. Lightly tapping with a hammer. Dents from the studs remain on the beam, a hole is drilled through them required diameter. You can also mark the beam with a tape measure, but the probability of error in this case is higher. A rolled waterproofing is laid on the wall, you can use an ordinary roofing material in two layers. Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.
For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. Floor beams are placed either on top of the Mauerlat with an exit beyond the plane of the walls by 0.3-0.5 meters, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the extreme ones in level, then, pulling the cord, they align the intermediate ones along them. The step of the floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient step is 60 cm, which allows you to lay the insulation boards without trimming. To equalize the height of the beams, they are hemmed or board linings are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material. Align them in the same way.
Racks are installed on the extreme floor beams. The end posts are made of timber 100x150 mm, the height and installation line of the posts is determined according to a previously prepared drawing. Racks are leveled using a level and a plumb line and temporarily fixed with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviations in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A cord is pulled between the extreme drains and the rest of the racks are set along it with a step equal to the step of the floor beams, that is, for each beam. All racks are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones. You should end up with two rows of uprights of the same height, running parallel to each other.
Runs from a board 50x150 mm are laid and fixed on racks, runs are fixed on nails 150 mm and on corners using self-tapping screws. Crossbars from a 50x200 mm board are placed on the runs with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbar during operation, this section of the board is quite enough, however, in order to exclude their deflection and increase reliability during installation, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports from the board are placed under them no thinner than 25 mm. On top of the crossbar, they are fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, before the installation of the rafters. At the same time, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the puff - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, girders and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits the interior of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently fixed with struts and contractions.
Installed from a board 50x150 mm. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper run, washed down the shape directly on the board and cut out. A template is applied to the run at the installation sites of the rafters, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws and on nails.
To perform the upper rafters, it is necessary to mark the center of the roof. This can be done with a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tightening from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, a template is prepared from a 25x150 mm board, applying it to the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the run on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
According to the template, the required number is performed rafter legs. The rafters are installed on the girders and connected in the upper part with the help of overhead metal plates or board scraps for self-tapping screws. In the run, the rafters rest on the cuts and are fixed on the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are fixed with the help of struts installed with the lower end on puffs. So put all the rafters. Hanging racks are attached - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the puff.
They put struts under the lower rafters from a 50x150 mm board, resting them with their lower oblique cut against the floor beam and fixing them on the corners, and the upper edge is attached to the side of the rafter leg, nailed to one or two nails, and then drilled through hole and fastened with a bolt or stud. After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and racks.
Gables are sewn up, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in the pockets of the walls, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form a roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the Mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillies.
corresponding to the type of roofing - solid or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the crate and the roofing is installed, for example,.

A sloping mansard roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space formed under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces the heating of the attic rooms in summer and provides additional thermal insulation in winter. Therefore, when sewing gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the floors of the attic floor.

Video - instructions for building a mansard roof

More and more people are turning to self-construction of a house.

There are many reasons for this, and everyone is guided by their own motives.

But the main thing is savings, of course, subject to knowledge of the matter.

Building a house for every man should be a mandatory attribute of success.

Investing in real estate is the best thing to do. The house will stand for decades and over time its value will only increase.

Of course, much depends on the design of both the internal and external parts of the residential building.

For a quality construction, you will need to study the technology of erecting a mansard roof. Another important skill is knowledge of carpentry. Or you can study the instructions yourself, which describe in detail the entire project of work. You should also pay attention to the fact that there are various.

When starting construction, you need to be puzzled by the following questions:

What are the best materials to use when building a mansard roof?
How many work steps are to be completed?
How many people will be needed to help with the construction?
What attic do you want to build?

It is best to plan the construction of the attic, installing a gable roof with a broken line, so you can get the largest possible area of \u200b\u200bthe future room.

Before starting any construction should be developed. When working through it, take the figures indicated in the calculations seriously, even the slightest mistake can lead to future damage to both the roof itself and the walls of the house.

So how to do mansard roof? This article will help you answer this question.

For soft roofs solid;
Discharged for slate.

Naturally there are certain installation rules soft roof , here they are:

If the pitched angle of the roof is located in the range from 5 to 10 °, then the roof has the form of a continuous flooring, special waterproof plywood or boards are used;
When the slope of the roof is between 10 and 15°, in this case the roof is made of timber with dimensions of 45 × 50 millimeters and in increments of 45 cm;
If the value of the oblique angle is greater than 15° for the crate a beam of 45 × 50 mm is used, but with a step of 600 mm;
For the skate attachment area install an additional beam.

Lathing under a soft roof

Installation of Mauerlat and truss system

Mauerlat is laid after work has been done to level the attic and place the flooring.

Due to the placement around the perimeter of the attic Mauerlat all non-straight corners can be corrected.

Beams are used as material.. The thickness is selected under the edge of the walls.

When you put the Mauerlat under the edge of the eaves, you should be especially careful.

Ensure that the structure is non-distorting, because it is impossible to enclose additional elements. You will have to disassemble part of the outer masonry of the wall and raise the inner part of the wall.

Mauerlat installation

Insulation installation

You need to insulate the attic if you are going to settle in it. First of all, it is worth deciding on the material used as. The best solution there will be special basalt slabs.

The density of the insulation is needed at least 30-40 km per cubic meter otherwise, its subsidence in the future is inevitable. And the thickness is 150 mm. Also, a special film is installed in the roof to protect it from getting wet.

Step-by-step installation of insulation

Installation of battens and counter battens

After the base is installed, it is necessary to install to strengthen the structure. This is necessary if the slope angle is large..

The counter-lattice is installed from small bars, which are superimposed on top of the main crate, already laid waterproofing layer. When installing a counter-lattice between the roof and the base, a ventilation space is formed, which allows to increase the service life.

Lathing installation

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

broken roof do-it-yourself requires the installation of waterproofing. To protect the roof from moisture penetration between the roof and the base a special layer of roofing felt or film is laid. The counter grille helps better ventilation to get rid of the effect of vaporization.

The most common evaporative protection system is a three-layer design - a hydrobarrier.

Reinforced lattice. It is woven from polyethylene fibers.
Anticondensate or barrier barrier.

Waterproofing is installed on the rafters or crate.

Installation of waterproofing

Types of roofing materials and their installation

The market offers a wide range of roofing materials for every taste. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Any builder first of all looks at the cost of the roof, then at its quality and service life.

roofing material

Conclusion

The construction of a mansard roof requires special diligence and painstaking work if you want to get a high-quality and final result. We will have to invest a lot of effort, not only physical, but also moral.

It will take a smart approach to work so that it ends without problems. Encountering a number of obstacles, most owners turn to the help of hired workers. But on the other hand, what can bring more pleasure as not done high-quality work with your own hands.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to assemble a mansard roof:

In contact with

Do-it-yourself construction of an attic on a house means that its owner approached the home improvement competently and practically, and each square meter is highly valued. but independent construction such a design is not an easy task, which will require a lot of effort, time and cost.

What is the definition of attic?

The attic or attic floor, according to legal sources, is the space under the roof of the house used to locate residential or utility rooms. In simple words, the attic is understood as an attic, which is equipped for separate rooms with the necessary heat and waterproofing.

The main difference between the attic superstructure and the residential floor is the height of the walls, which should be no more than 1.5 m from the outside of the house. If this legal requirement is not met, the owner will be forced to pay taxes for the additional footage of the building.

It is possible to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe dwelling by erecting an attic even at the construction design stage, and it is also permissible to remake the upper part of the roof for a superstructure on finished house. However, in order for the foundation and walls of the building not to be damaged from the additional load, it is necessary to know all the nuances of installing an extension.

Various types of add-ons

Before you start making an attic at home, you need to decide on appearance superstructure, which will not only meet the requirements, but also harmonize perfectly with the main part of the building. The following types of extensions of this type are most often used in practice:

Single level with a gable roof. The most common type of attic, since its construction does not require special construction skills, and the cost of materials will be minimal. However, a significant drawback of such a structure is its small size.
Single level with . To make such a structure, it takes a little more effort than in the previous version, but due to the roof of this shape, the interior becomes noticeably more spacious.

The above options for superstructures will not be difficult to build even on an old house. Indeed, in fact, this is the same attic space, but more equipped for a comfortable pastime.

For reference! There are other types of attics, such as single-level with the removal of consoles or multi-level. They are more costly and difficult to design. In addition, such varieties are not entirely suitable for erection on a finished building.

Materials needed for construction

After the owner of the house has decided what kind of attic floor he is going to build, the materials necessary for the process should be prepared.

As a rule, light materials are used to build an attic on a built house, such as wooden beams, and in some cases aerated concrete, which has good heat-saving properties. Suitable for such purposes and frame construction.

Most often, the following elements are used for construction:

rafter and sloping legs;
conjurers;
Mauerlat;
crossbar;
various struts, fights and racks.

At the same time, it is better to choose beams from coniferous woods, such as spruce, pine and larch, the moisture content of which should be no more than 15%, and the grade should be 1st or 2nd. In addition, it is imperative to treat the material with an antiseptic solution before erecting a building.

In the case when the attic floor is planned during the design of the building, you can choose any materials for its construction, depending on the type of superstructure, its dimensions and the preferences of the owner. Most often, such an attic is erected from brick, concrete and foam blocks.

Requirements for installing an attic

In addition to personal preferences, during the construction of the attic floor, certain SNiP standards must be observed. The main ones include the following conditions:

The thickness of the rafters is at least 250 mm, which will allow you to lay a suitable layer of insulation between them (more than 200 mm).
Heaters should be chosen those that will not lose their properties in conditions high humidity. Expanded polystyrene is best suited for these purposes, as it is lightweight and retains heat well in the room. Mineral wool should not be used as a heater due to the fact that it absorbs moisture well, as a result of which it quickly collapses.
Between the layer of insulation and the roof, hoods and vents must be installed so that air can move freely in this space.
The outer side of the rafters should be covered with a waterproofing layer, and experts also recommend adding an additional layer of soundproofing materials.

Regardless of what kind of attic is planned to be built, the listed requirements must be taken into account.

Attention! On the attic floor, a vapor barrier must be installed on the inner sides of the roof in accordance with the standards.

Construction of the attic step by step

After the project and all the drawings of the attic floor have been completed, as well as the material for construction has been prepared, you can begin work. However, if the future owner of the building prepared them on his own, he should still consult with an experienced specialist, since in such a case the most important accurate calculations, especially when it comes to building a superstructure on an old structure.

Frame erection

Do-it-yourself attic construction should begin with the installation of a Mauerlat on the inner sides of the outer walls. As a rule, this is most often used wooden bars, which can be attached to anchors, studs or staples, depending on the material bearing walls. However, for wooden and frame buildings, there is no need to install a Mauerlat.

After the support has been erected, it is necessary to install vertical posts on it, which can be made of wood, metal, or foam concrete. On top of them are placed transverse beams with a step of no more than 2 meters. This distance will be equal to the location of the attic floor rafters. The whole structure is fastened together with metal corners, self-tapping screws or nail plates and pulled together with a jumper.

Then you should put the lower rafters. To do this, a groove is made at the base of the timber in order to securely install it on the Mauerlat, and its upper part is cut to the desired length, respectively, with the angle of inclination.

The next step in the construction of the attic floor is the installation of the upper rafters. In order to determine the correct angle and center, this part of the frame is assembled on the ground, and then fixed to the structure.

Roofing installation

After the attic frame is installed, it must be covered with vapor barrier material and fixed with metal brackets.

Attention! For vapor barrier, it is better to choose a fire-resistant and non-toxic material, especially if it is planned to equip a bedroom or a children's room in the attic rooms.

Then follows on vapor barrier material lay a layer of insulation, while preventing the appearance of gaps between its plates and rafters. It must be fixed by installing over the crate. After that, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing to protect the wood from moisture, and roofing material is already laid on top of it.

As the above material shows, the construction of the attic can be done with your own hands, all kinds of videos that can be easily found on the Internet can help in this matter. However, you should not completely trust them, it would be more correct to seek advice from experienced professionals.

The device of the attic in an individual house is a fairly common phenomenon. This construction method reduces the cost square meter and create a rather interesting room in roof space. In order to properly perform the device of the attic floor, it is necessary to study the basic requirements for it and choose the right type of roof and its slope.

What is an attic

According to regulatory documents, the attic floor is the volume under the roof, which is used to accommodate residential and utility rooms. At the same time, the height of the outer walls should be no more than 1.5 m in the general case, otherwise the space will be considered a full-fledged residential floor.

A do-it-yourself attic is beneficial both during construction and during the operation of a private house. In the first case, costs are reduced due to the fact that the height of the vertical enclosing structures is reduced. The roof takes on this function without ceasing to fulfill its original purpose.

An attic is an under-roof space that can be equipped as a separate room for living.

In operation, cost savings can be as follows:

Decreased space to be heated, consequently, there is a reduction in heating costs, which are an impressive item in the cost of utilities.
After the construction is completed, the house must be measured by specialists from the BTI, after which a passport of the object is issued. It is on the basis of the area values \u200b\u200bgiven in it that taxes are charged and utility bills are paid (provided that they are connected to centralized systems and there are no metering devices, which is now practically not found). The area of the attic floor is included in the area of the whole house with coefficients of 0.7 or 0.8 depending on the height outer wall and the angle of inclination of the roof, which allows significant savings throughout the entire life of the facility.

Preparatory stage

It is worth starting construction with the development of a project or diagrams on which the future structure will be drawn. Most often, the roof that is used for the attic floor is gable, but it is also possible to use a hip four-pitched roof. double slope design allows you to provide full-fledged windows in the gables.

In the case of using a hip to illuminate the premises, it is possible to install only attic window openings. This option can become more time consuming in terms of installing roof elements and designing interiors. Cost reduction with a hip roof is achieved due to the absence of gables (especially savings will be noticeable in brick house, where the cost of materials and the installation of wall fencing is quite high).

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with determining the geometric dimensions and shapes of the roof. Earlier it was already said about the choice of the type of rafter system at home (gable, hip), after which it will be necessary to decide whether the slope will be straight or broken. The broken structure has such disadvantages as increased cost and labor intensity. Its use is justified by the need to increase the height of the room by changing the angle of the roof.

At the design stage, determine optimal slope roofs. Its choice depends on ergonomic considerations and the type of roofing material which imposes restrictions.

Before making an attic, it is also necessary to calculate all its load-bearing elements for strength and bending, select the composition of the roof pie, perform thermotechnical calculations and decide on materials. More on this later.

Main bearing elements

The design includes the following components:

rafter legs, which transfer the load from the weight of the roofing and the wall to the walls of the house. The section is selected depending on the angle of inclination, span, step and design load. A professional can correctly perform a detailed calculation. For private construction, approximate values \u200b\u200bcan be used, while it is best to provide a small margin.
Narozhniki- these are rafter legs, which, on one or both sides, are supported by slanted ones. The cross section is calculated in the same way as for rafters.
Slanted legs- the design used in hip roof. This element serves as a support for the sprigs. The cross section is taken depending on the load and the span, in any case it should be larger than that of the rafter legs.
Mauerlat- an element that serves as a support for the stops and transfers the load from the roof to the walls, evenly distributing it. It will be correct to choose a section with dimensions of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150, depending on the complexity of the object. Mauerlat is not installed during the construction of frame and wooden houses, since in this case we play the upper crown of the walls or the strapping in its role.
Rigel- a beam, which is also a support for the rafters, but already in the upper part. The crossbar is installed in the ridge of the roof or at the break of the slope, in case of a broken structure. The cross section should be taken depending on the conditions, as a recommended value, dimensions of 200 by 200 mm can be given.
Struts, racks, fights- additional elements for unfastening elements. They are used to reduce the cross section of load-bearing structures. Their cross section is most often chosen constructively. At the same time, it is important to take into account the convenience of making connections.

A do-it-yourself mansard roof should be built starting from the selection of sections of all elements of the roof frame. The material for manufacturing is selected taking into account the following conditions:

wood must be coniferous (pine, spruce, larch);
material grade - first or second;
humidity not more than 15%.

Be sure to treat all boards and bars with antiseptic compounds before starting construction.

Thermal engineering calculations

To keep the heat in the house, you will need to choose the thickness of the insulation. Most often, mineral wool is used for attic rooms (more often in slabs than in mats). It is also possible to use polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Having determined what to make the heat-insulating layer from, select its thickness. It is important to consider the height of the rafters. It must always be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation. For mineral wool, it will also be necessary to provide a 50 mm ventilation gap between the upper surface of the heat insulator and the roofing. If the cross section of the rafters is small, then in order to fulfill this requirement, a counter-lattice is installed.

Before you build a mansard roof with your own hands, you can manually calculate it according to heat engineering, guided by the Joint Venture "Thermal Protection of Buildings". But it is better to turn to special programs for help. In order to correctly calculate the thickness in the Teremok program (freely available on the network), you need to know the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the area of \u200b\u200bconstruction of the house, the program will find the rest itself.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof is different from the usual pitched roof only with thermal insulation. More layers are also added to the cake to protect the insulation. Below step-by-step instruction will allow you to correctly install the elements of the mansard roof.

The procedure is as follows:

fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
installation of rafters and systems of struts and racks;
installation of waterproofing and wind protection;
crate;
roofing;
warming;
bottom trim.

Assembling the roof frame

Installation begins with a Mauerlat. It is laid on the inner grant of the outer wall. Fastening depends on the material of the load-bearing walls, but in general it can be done in several ways:

on staples;
on studs;
on the anchor.

For fragile materials of the walls of the house, such as aerated concrete and foam concrete, a monolithic belt is made along the edge, which will prevent the destruction of the walls. For wooden and frame houses Mauerlat is not provided.

Next, you need to install the crossbars, if any. After the supporting structures are laid, the rafter legs are laid out. The fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat can be rigid and articulated. It is better to do it with the use of cutting and fixing with metal corners on both sides.

This is a fairly old album, so nails are used as fasteners in all the drawings in it. It is better to replace them with studs. The design of the roof of the house in this regulatory document is shown in great detail, so it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with it before starting work.

Before starting the installation of insulation in the house, it is necessary to ensure its protection from negative influences. environment. To do this, a moisture-windproof membrane is spread over the surface and the crate is fixed. After that, the roofing is mounted, taking into account the recommendations for the selected material. For example, for shingles you need a solid crate, which is most often made of moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation of thermal insulation

To perform the insulation of the house, you need to install a heater without gaps and cracks. For mineral wool, it will be easier to install if the distance between the rafters is 580 or 1180 mm clean. This will allow you to lay the material with a slight expansion, which will prevent cracks.

When using expanded polystyrene, the distance between the plates and rafters is filled with sealant or mounting foam.

After laying the insulation, you need to fix the vapor barrier to it from below. After that, the lower crate and ceiling lining are mounted. For the attic, sheathing with two layers of drywall 12.5 mm thick along the frame is best suited, followed by finishing.

The mansard roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living area, while investments financial resources will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build on your own.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Under the mansard roof, you can equip rooms for housing. The shape of the building may be different, but in most cases the attic is equipped under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to get a significant area of \u200b\u200bliving space, is a broken structure.

A sloping roof is the best option for arranging an attic

Drawings and calculations of a mansard type roof

The first step is to decide on the scheme of the frame. Rafters can be layered or hanging type. Sloped rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters are placed on fillies and Mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary ligaments.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of the attic is the level of the ceilings - it must be above 2.5 m. To ensure such a height, the break line should be placed at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the layer of material for insulation and sheathing of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

The minimum ceiling height of the mansard roof is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S \u003d Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m 2 area, µ is a value that depends on the slope of the roof (1.0 - for flat design with a slope of 25°, 0.7 for a design with a slope of 25–60°).

The parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the relevant SNiP, in the "Rafter systems" section. If the roof has a steep slope, then the snow load can be ignored.

Roof device

The frame structure includes the following details:

mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in a vertical position;
floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
runs - horizontal support parts for rafters;
lathing - slats or plywood sheets that are intended for laying roofing material;
filly - planks that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a mauerlat, racks, girders, floor beams and other elements

The sloping roof differs from the usual design with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes that are placed opposite each other have a special shape: they do not form a straight line, but consist of several slopes that are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The extreme part of the rafters is mainly exposed at an angle of about 60 °. Racks for support, which hold the rafters, form the frame structure of the inner walls. The upper part of the rafters is mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45 °. This makes it possible to reduce the consumption of materials, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks, which abut against floor planks, girders and crossbars fastening them, form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, struts should be installed between the floor slats and the lower rafter legs.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After mounting the upper elements to fix the truss and prevent sagging of the crossbars, it is necessary to install suspended support elements - headstocks. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with racks using tacks. Parts are fastened with nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of the attic

If it is decided to make such a design yourself, it is important to provide for the use of such materials in the project:

roofing material;
vapor barrier;
waterproofing;
material for insulation.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters. To reduce the amount of heat insulator, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for covering the roof. You need to pay attention not only to the choice of high-quality material for insulation, but also to the creation of an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is equipped by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire protection. You will need to prepare the following elements:

wooden bars section from 100x50 mm;
slats 50x150 mm;
unedged boards;
building level;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
steel wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm;
plumb;
roulette;
hacksaw;
axe;
hammer;
sharp knife.

Drafting a project

One of the most important parts of the job is drafting a project. It is very important to analyze the features of the layout of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being erected, as well as to provide for the placement of windows and a balcony.

The project should include all structural elements

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

It is important to decide in advance what height the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the very high point structure must be at least 0.5 m.
It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main elements of the interior.
The attic scheme should be expanded. If you plan to install windows, then they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with the choice of shape, determining the cross section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the size of the rafters, the following parameters must be taken into account:

slope;
roofing material;
climate features in the construction region.

It is also important to provide for the required number of rafters in the project. They can be layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, you should determine the number of parts for fixing. In the figure below you can see some of the data needed for the calculation, however, drafting a project is a complex process. This work is recommended to be entrusted to qualified specialists.

Mauerlat installation

The device of the mansard roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as on the prepared project of the attic. A simple option is a design with two slopes.

The main details of the roof truss system with two slopes are:

linear elements (column, bar system, beam);
planar details (plate, flooring, panel);
spatial elements (arch, shell, three-dimensional detail).

Before performing work, you will need to dry the wood thoroughly. The first step is the marking and installation of the Mauerlat. It is attached to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a bar or a powerful rail. If it is planned to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat is laid on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct division of the load on the walls and the main part of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat, metal studs should be used, which are mounted in a monolithic concrete beam.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal studs

The beam should be carried out in the upper part of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To fix the Mauerlat to the upper crown of the wooden wall, you need to use wooden dowels. auerlat requires high-quality waterproofing of timber timber. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing felt or other material with a water-repellent property.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing material

Mauerlat installation is required if it is planned to erect a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with their lower ends against the extended support parts. As supports, it is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be fixed to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The frame of the mansard roof consists of floor beams, rafters, girders and racks

Softwood bars 200x100 mm are often used as a material. Floor slats are placed on top of the Mauerlat with a 30–50 cm indent beyond the surface of the walls or in prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the beam to the Mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even overlap, the strips should be installed in this sequence:

First of all, the extreme details are laid according to the level.
Next, pull the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
The step of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. A distance of 60 cm makes it possible to mount insulation boards without sawing.
To level the beams in height, they can be hemmed. Another option is to use plank linings.
If the beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their extreme parts must be treated with liquid waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material.

Racks must be placed on the extreme slats:

After mounting the racks, crossbars and purlins, you can get reliable design, which will limit interior rooms attic. To increase its strength, in the future it should be fixed with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After that, the upper elements are installed:

The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a rack that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and puff from the end of the roof. The extreme part of the board should run along the center of the roof. On this board you need to align the rafter legs.
Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm rail. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted rail at the required level and to the run on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
You should mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. The device is applied in turn to two sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the layout of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in fixing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
According to the preparation, it is necessary to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on the runs and connected in the upper parts with the help of overhead iron plates or scraps of planks. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the run, the rafters rest against the cuts and are seized iron corners. In order for the parts to stand straight, they are fastened with struts mounted on the bottom of the puffs. All rafters are installed in this way.
Suspension racks are fixed - pieces of planks 150x25 mm. The upper part of the rail is attached at the place where the rafters are fixed, the lower part is attached to the tightening.

Video: mansard roof truss system

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Construction lathing

The crate is needed for:

distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
grounds for fixing roofing material.

The crate can be made in one or two layers, solid or with a vacuum.

The crate can be solid or with a vacuum

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof of slate or metal tiles is being erected, the lathing should be made of slats, which are attached to the bars of the rafter legs with nails. In this case, the installation step of adjacent planks can be 27–30 cm.

A solid crate is used in case of fastening soft material in rolls.

A solid crate is necessary for a soft roof

In this case, you can use moisture-resistant sheets of plywood or particle boards. It is allowed to use pine wood material - edged planks.

It is important to take into account the fact that when constructing such a crate, the material to be laid must follow the contours of the outer base. Therefore, the frame structure must be strong and leveled.

In the process of laying out the material, you should use a cord with which the slats or slabs will lie flat. Parts must be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect it from decay, fungus and dampness. The blanks must be even and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood grades 1 and 2. It should not have knots. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

The sequence of actions for installing the crate:

Mansard roof waterproofing

The material for the roof does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare a quality material that will be environmentally friendly for human health. Quite often, mineral wool or glass wool is used. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to consider that if the roof is made of metal, when the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the device design.

It will not work to insulate the attic without laying waterproofing material, so the process should be considered as a whole. Walkthrough for waterproofing the structure:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect the insulation with modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives a poor result, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen believe that it is not necessary to waterproof the structure with roofing material.

Before proceeding to work, you need to decide on heat-insulating material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The most commonly used heat insulators are:

glass wool;
mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
foamed glass;
wood shavings;
straw.

It is necessary to choose a material taking into account four parameters.

Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W/m*K or less is optimal.
Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
Fire resistant.
Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after a while. Also, the material can be damaged under the influence of mechanical loads. However, mineral wool has a low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Roof insulation step by step guide:

Laying roofing material and installation of window openings

As an example, the installation of metal tiles will be considered, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the floor base 1:10. For example, if the attic area is 100 m 2, then the glazing should be approximately 10 m 2. When installing windows, it is necessary to take into account such nuances:

Attic decoration

Interior decoration attic can be done with wood or drywall sheets. If the latter option is used, then after installation, the sheets must be wallpapered or painted water-based paint. In some cases, the attic is divided into several rooms. This can be done using plasterboard partitions.

If you plan to use the attic often, then the floor and walls can be additionally insulated. This can be done using, for example, mineral wool.

Interesting design options for the attic room

The attic can be made cozy by symmetrically placing sofas on both sides In the attic, you can place a long sofa In the attic, you can arrange a place to relax by hanging a hammock In the attic, you can make not only a living space, but also a bathroom On the attic floor, you can even make a kitchen If on the territory there is no way to place a hammock, then this can be done on the attic floor One of the parts of the attic can be completely glazed The attic can be a great place to create a home library The walls of the attic can be faced with brick In the attic you can equip a full-fledged living room On the attic floor you can equip a relaxation room If the house is located in a beautiful area, then the roof can be made panoramic The bed can be placed facing the window In the attic you can make a bedroom with high ceilings In the attic you can place hanging chair. This will make the roof more comfortable

Video: making a mansard roof

Recently, a mansard-type roof is quite popular among owners of private houses. In order to feel all the positive aspects of living in a building of this type, it is necessary to pay due attention to the insulation of the building.