What to make a residential attic. How to build a mansard roof with your own hands and not make mistakes. How to make an attic with your own hands under a sloping roof

It is difficult these days to imagine the layout of a house without an attic in it. It is also built in old buildings, thus adding living space, instead of an outdated attic.

When creating a new building, the issue of erecting an attic is decided in advance in the project. If the attic is being built independently in an old house, then it is necessary to carefully study all the requirements for reconstruction or for an extension in an already finished building.

What is an attic

The attic is a living space resembling an attic, which is formed on the upper floors of houses with a mansard roof. To build an attic on their own is within the power of any person with special skills in the construction process.

Under the attic floor is understood the floor in the attic, the facade of which is wholly or partially formed by surfaces of an inclined or broken roof. In fact, it is a full-fledged living space inside the building.

To reduce the load on the already erected structure, with construction works ah of the attic floor, they personally use light materials and structures. Wood is indispensable in these matters. The attic is often built on its own from wood, for this purpose beams, logs or frame-panel technology are used.

Types of attics

Types of gable roofs: options for the purpose of the building

The shape of the attic room depends on. The attic can cover the territory of the entire building or only part of it. Rooms with it are symmetrical or asymmetrical. The shape is often triangular or broken. True, not every roof is designed for the construction of an attic.

Mansard roofing is of the following types:

• 1 pitched;
• 2-pitched;
• broken line;
• hip;
• hipped (pyramidal, round, conical shape).

Let's consider in detail:

• Shed roofs are built quite infrequently. Due to the high difference between the height of the walls, such an attic will become asymmetrical and it will be difficult to install windows.
• A gable roof often means arranging the attic symmetrically. She will have sloping interior walls. During the construction of this roof, elongated boards are used, which will come out expensive. True, the performance of this roof is quite high. A serious advantage is that with such a roof is possible mounting full-fledged windows and doors along which there is an exit to the balcony.
• Broken roof. The attic will have vertical walls. The building itself reaches a width of more than 5 m. The material consumed for this type of roof is much less than for a gable roof.
• The hip roof makes it possible to create a comfortable and small attic. It includes 2 slopes, having the shape of a trapezoid and a triangle. The windows are on the ceiling slopes.
• Hipped roof is also used for the construction of the attic. Windows should have a special shape and be made according to individual projects.

All of these types of structures have their own advantages and disadvantages. Symmetrical structures have a more straightforward scheme, there are no complex calculations in the project, compared with the installation of asymmetric coatings.

What is needed for construction

It should be understood that the construction of the attic is a rather complicated process. Here you need to have proper experience and skills in the field of construction. Before construction work, you should carefully study all the design features of the attic floor, installation methods, as well as situations where it is not possible to complete it.

Materials, tools and project

To build an attic, you will need the following materials:

• wooden bars (section dimensions vary depending on the dimensions of the building and the angle of inclination of the slope);
• boards made of wood for crates;
• material to sheathe end walls;
• fasteners for roof mounting;
• thermal insulation;
• waterproofing;
• material for interior decoration of the attic.

To build an attic yourself, you will need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• lace;
• saw for woodworking.

Design is considered one of the most important elements of the work, since without it it is not advised to start the construction process itself.

If you treat this stage in bad faith, then you can easily lose sight of any detail that then requires large financial resources to eliminate the error. Prior to the construction of the attic, it will be necessary to make a thorough analysis of the features of the layout of the room, which is to be converted.

Well-known requirements that serve as a template during construction are in SNiP. In addition, the following details must be taken into account:

• Geometric features of the roof.
• Creation of conditions for the joint functioning of engineering systems of the roof and other parts of the house.
• Choosing the right material for construction work.
• Roof of the attic floor. Attics with round-sloped roofs need special waterproofing and special insulation.

Attic construction

The layout of the attic can be carried out both in the process of construction work, and during the construction of the attic already on a pre-fabricated building. First, you should carefully check the foundation of the building.

It is extremely important to correctly calculate the attic load on the building, since the quality of the attic and the general condition of the entire dwelling will depend on this factor.

Detailed step by step instructions

Mansard roof truss system

1. First you need to have timber beams. They should be applied on top of the waterproofing material. The optimal ones are roofing material or roofing felt sold in rolls. When working with them, you do not need any specialized skills. In case of creation hardwood floor there is no need to install an auxiliary beam.
2. Next, the racks are mounted on the beams. They represent a specific skeleton of the walls of the attic being built. For best performance, they should be placed no further than 2 m between them. Each rack must be level. After installation, they are recommended to be sheathed on both sides. It is necessary not to forget to lay the insulation in the middle of the racks. Each rack must be individually secured with spikes and staples.
3. Then the top bar is laid. It is fixed in any convenient way. It is important that the beams must be strong and durable.
4. Next is installed. Thanks to him, a high level of strength of the fasteners of the roof rafters to the wall is ensured. It will make it possible to direct the weight of the roof onto the walls. Since the Mauerlat is located on the wall, the load on it is small. The main thing is not to forget to lay a layer of waterproofing under it, in order to avoid further decay.
5. If the Mauerlat is well fixed, then it will protect the roof from the influence of wind, snow in winter time. To fix it, an annealed wire with a diameter of up to 0.5 cm is used.
6. Next, the rafters are installed. Preliminary marking is applied on the rafter frame and Mauerlat in the place where the rafter legs will be installed. For rafters, only boards with a perfectly flat surface are suitable.
7. The rafters rest on a ridge beam. If the attic is large enough in area, then, of course, the weight of the entire roof will become large. Due to this, the beam is considered an indispensable part of the structure. If rafter legs length less than 8 m, then ordinary stretch marks are quite useful.
8. Installation of mares. It is carried out in the same way as the rafter legs.
9. Then a hem board should be nailed to the fillies. It will prevent the influence of wind and virtually any natural precipitation.
10. Before installing the roof, you need to decide where the windows will be mounted. Their total area is not less than 13-14% of the area of ​​the side walls. At the place of installation of windows, rafter legs should be strengthened. For this purpose, cross bars are installed.

Additional work

In order for the attic to have a long service life, it is necessary to carry out a number of additional work associated with an increase in its obstruction to the effects of mechanical and natural factors.

Warming and waterproofing

• When self-created mansard roof insulation plays an important role. The implementation of these works begins after the installation of the rafters. The docking area with the environment is quite large, so you need a high-quality insulation (for example, mineral wool). The insulation is directly protected on both sides. Steam can penetrate inside, and water can penetrate from the outside. The most popular material is the membrane film.
• From the outside, where there is a ventilated air gap, the insulation is protected by waterproofing, a windproof vapor-permeable membrane. It is impossible to use for installation in a roof or attic, as a waterproofing and windproof membrane, materials that are also a vapor barrier. Installation of waterproofing and wind protection is done on top of the roof rafters. Waterproofing is attached to them using wooden beams or a stapler. Waterproofing joints after installation are carefully glued with adhesive tape. Waterproofing is installed in order to protect the insulation from high humidity from precipitation that enters the gaps during gusts of wind, as well as from condensate on the other side of the roof.
• The ventilation of the attic floor should be carefully equipped. Since now it is a dwelling, it is necessary to create the proper conditions for housing. The main problem with its microclimate is the heat coming from the lower floors and causing condensation to accumulate on the insulation. Condensation has a detrimental effect on it and this can lead to rotting and destruction. To protect it, a vapor barrier layer is added. If condensation still accumulates on the thermal insulation layer, you should think about a forced ventilation system.

Insulation of the attic with foam

Attic decoration

Finishing work attic with drywall

To begin with, roofing slopes and gables are sheathed, then the ceiling is trimmed. To sheathe the roof slopes on the rafter legs, the bars are mounted horizontally in increments of 1 m, then horizontal bars are mounted at intervals.

The next step is to measure the drywall according to the given dimensions and then install it on the base. quite simple, but at the same time quite laborious process. When everything is completed, all gaps and cracks should be sealed.

Finishing work attic with lining

Finishing work under a tree are quite in demand for attics, and the installation of the lining itself is simple. It is cut to the required height and nailed to a wooden base using nails at the joints, so the hat will not be visible.

After each sheet of lining, it is necessary to inspect its position using a level, otherwise there will be a risk of a large skew at the end of the wall. When the installation of the lining is completed, it must be covered with several layers of varnish.

• The choice of the optimal mansard roof option increases the living space in the building. Miscellaneous different types roof structures can be installed not only during the construction of the building, but also during the reconstruction of the building. With the latter option, it is necessary to calculate in advance the ability of the base and walls to withstand additional loads.
• The design of the attic roof provides for the installation of a system of rafters from carefully dried wooden beams. To perform structural elements, bars of various sections are used. Installation of the attic is done using light and safe material.
• Insulation of the attic inside the room, which is under the roof, is more likely to lose heat than the lower floors. Because of this, the roof must include reliable insulation. It is installed in the middle of the outer waterproofing layer and vapor barrier from the side of the room. A well-made pie ensures a long service life of the entire roofing system. For the interior decoration of the attic, natural wood is most often used. But wall and ceiling cladding can also be done with other sheet materials, including drywall.

The attic floor today is an indispensable element of modern private buildings. Between the roof and the top floor of the house, you can arrange a bathroom, a bedroom, and an office. The area and configuration of such rooms will primarily depend on the type of roof.

Making an attic with your own hands is a very simple process if you carefully study all the nuances of the construction process, as well as follow all the requirements and advice of the experts described above.

In this case, all the adverse consequences during the construction of the attic and other troubles will bypass you. You should not rush, do everything in turn and the result will meet all expectations.

Its arrangement is the easiest and fast way increase the usable area. Rooms in the attic acquire a certain romantic areola and become a favorite pastime of the household. The main advantage of these premises is a large number of fresh air and light. But you need to approach it with all responsibility, otherwise you risk becoming a hostage to weather conditions.

The shape of the mansard roof can be any, but most often it is gable. And if it is also broken, then with its help the space is used most rationally. A huge plus of the attic floor is that its construction is much more economical than the construction of a full-fledged floor with main walls.

The power structure of the roof, where there will be an attic or one under which there will be no living quarters, does not differ. The strength and stability of the roof depends entirely on its truss system.

rafters- This is the main load-bearing structure of the roof. They must withstand both the weight of the roof and the load in the form of rain and wind. The truss system is calculated based on the selected roofing material, as well as depending on the climatic conditions of the area.

For the construction of a power rafter system, ferrous metal is used according to GOST, galvanized thin-walled cold-formed profile or wood, as well as combinations of ferrous metal and galvanized profile, metal and wood. In hard-to-reach places for installation, it is better to use a thin-walled profile.

The choice of material directly depends on the length of the spans to be covered. For long distances, ferrous metal or trusses are suitable.

It is very important to use only lightweight materials and structures for the construction of an additional floor. The advantages of a thin-walled profile are that it does not require welding and can be assembled in place on bolted joints or rivets.

Wood, as a material, is also well suited, but requires additional treatment with an antiseptic.

Rafters, frames or trusses are erected from load-bearing structures. They are mounted on the Mauerlat, and then runs are made on them. If the step is large, this also becomes part of the power structures.

Mauerlat- this is part of the roofing system in the form of a bar laid on the perimeter of the wall and accounts for the lower rafter support.

An important task is how to make the attic warm, that is, to organize a warming cake. The difference between a dwelling and just a roof is the need for its thermal insulation. As an additional load, all insulation is not significant and does not affect the load-bearing structure of the roof.

The main design principle is that the load-bearing structure must be placed either in a warm circuit or in a cold one, but not be in the middle. Preferably a warm placement, then the whole insulation pie comes out.

The most common mistakes:

• lumber is not treated with antiseptic and fireproof impregnations and this shortens the life of your roof
• rafter legs are fused with cuts without the use of heat-insulating gaskets, which leads to freezing and cold bridges
• sections of rafters and their installation takes place “by eye” without taking into account loads
• rafter legs are not attached to the Mauerlat or are attached with nails, which is the same thing with a strong gust of wind
• the waterproofing film is laid face down inside the room, and not outside, as it should be
• insufficiently reliable fastening of the joints of the rafters with girders, sometimes it's just a couple of nails.

As a result of non-compliance with building technologies, many get a disastrous result, even if not immediately. To avoid this, consider in detail how to do it.

An example of how to calculate the attic

Before starting the construction of the attic with your own hands, you will need to make a drawing. If you do not own, for example, the AutoCad program, you can do it by hand. It is important that you clearly see the projection of your attic from the front, side and top view.

To begin, mark the load-bearing walls of your house in the front view (looking at the gable of the building).

So, let's say there is a house with the following initial parameters:

• Three load-bearing walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300mm.
• The distance between the walls is 4m.
• The floor beams of the first floor are laid with the release of a cornice of 50 cm.
• Because the maximum length wooden beam- 6m, then this value is taken as the basis for the width of the attic ceiling. Based on this, we get a drawing of a gable sloping roof.
• Height from ceiling to beam - 2660mm.
• The length of the side and top rafters (roof breaks) is 3300mm each. When these values ​​are the same, then, in addition to the fact that it looks harmonious, it will be easier to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roofing.
• The angle of inclination of the side rafter is 60°, the top rafter is 25°.
• The thickness of the floor beam is 250mm, the rafter beams are 200mm.
• Vertical racks of 150 mm were installed, on which a strapping beam was laid, and an attic floor beam, side and upper rafters were attached to it.
• The total height of the roof is 4260mm, and the height of the living space is 2250mm. According to the norms, this is the permissible ceiling height for rooms for temporary stay, that is, bedrooms, children's rooms.

In fact, the attic is a frame consisting of several racks, beams and rafters.

If the length of the transverse ceiling exceeds 6 m, and, accordingly, one beam cannot be dispensed with, then the upper part of the attic can be made in the form of a truss with a rack, truss and an additional rack. Sprengels can also be installed in the side part, which burst the rafters. In this case, these details are not necessary.

When calculating, you must have at hand a set of rules and tables on the technical standards of construction, which is called "Loads and Impacts". It contains not only general provisions, but also formulas with coefficients, for example, of melting, snow drift and uneven distribution of snow over the roof area.

When calculating how to build an attic, it must be remembered that 4 types of loads act on it at once:

• own weight (it is relatively easy to calculate, knowing what kind of insulation cake will be in the ceiling and rafters)
• pressure on ceilings of people inside, furniture, etc.
• snow load on a slope less than 30 ° is 1.52 kPa; if the slope is steeper than 60 °, then such a load does not fall on it
• wind, which acts evenly on all rafters from the windy side, and suction occurs on the leeward side at this time, “tearing off” both the upper and side rafters.

Also, the tearing force of the rafters is especially effective when the wind blows into the pediment of the building. These loads are calculated by formulas using the appropriate aerodynamic coefficient.

We build an attic with our own hands

Installation sequence:

• First of all, floor beams with a section of 70 (50) x 250 mm are laid in increments of 1 m (this is calculated individually for each wall length, the main thing is that the pitch is the same). In this case, this is also explained by the fact that a ladder will go out into one of the gaps, and it should not be already 90 cm. If you take a step smaller, the floor beam would have to be cut and strengthened, and these are additional worries.
• On the sides to the beams, bars are stuffed, on which sheet material or boards are laid.
• After mounting the beams, racks are attached to them in 2 rows, which are leveled using a level with a plumb line, and then temporary jibs are made to them, perpendicular to each other and nailed, along and across from the roof axis. This additionally secures the beams and prevents them from deviating to the side. For the jib, you can use any board.
• A rope is stretched between the two extreme racks and the rest of the racks are leveled along it. Their step is always equal to the step of the floor beams. All racks are fixed similarly to the extreme ones. The result should be two parallel rows of racks, on which the strapping bars are then placed.
• Runs are laid and fixed on racks with 150 mm nails and corners on self-tapping screws.

• Crossbars from a bar 50 x 200mm are placed on top of the edge, which increases their rigidity. Since subsequently they are not subjected to a significant load, this section, as a rule, is sufficient. But in order to insure them at the time of installation, supports from a bar no thinner than 25mm are placed under them. At this stage, the rigidity of the attic is provided only in the transverse direction; longitudinally the structure is unstable. From above, until the rafters are installed, one or two boards can also be temporarily strengthened on the crossbar.
• The lower rafters are installed with a section of 50 x 150mm. First, a template is made from a 25 x 150mm board (it is easier to process). The length is measured, applied to the upper beam and the shape of the joint is drawn directly on the board, which is then sawn out. Next, the template is tried on at all other places for mounting the rafters, and if it matches them, all legs are cut out according to the template. However, the lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat, is cut out in place. The rafters are fastened with corners with self-tapping screws and nails. You can mount beams with rafters in parallel, that is, when all elements are attached at once in one span, or you can sequentially, when all floor beams are installed first, and then all side rafters.
• The so-called wind connections are being established. These are wooden braces that burst the top point at the level where the attic beams are installed.
• Upper rafter line. At the level of the ridge, for convenience, an overlay is sometimes made and a tightening in the middle in order to put together the rafters on the ground, and then raise and unfasten them in place. The center of the roof is marked with a temporary stand, which is nailed to the Mauerlat and extremely tightened from the end so that this board goes up the center of the roof. This will be the guideline for the rafters. Further, as in the case of the lower ones, they make a template, applying it with one end to the edge of the installed board, and with the other to the run on which the upper rafters will rest. They cut it out, try it on to all points on both sides of the roof. If the posts were fixed in parallel, there should be no problems with the upper rafters.
• According to the template, the required number of rafter legs is made. They are placed on the longitudinal beams on the cuts, fastened with the help of corners and connected in the upper part with scraps of boards on self-tapping screws or metal plates. Often they are reinforced with cuts to the transverse beams: hanging racks 25 x 150mm are fixed between the junction of two rafters and the attic puff.
• Next, the attic ceiling is installed in the same way as the floor, when boards are laid on the sides on the nailed bars.

• Installation of a frame for sewing up a pediment, it is called half-timbered. The window opening is also indicated here. A board 50 x 150 mm in increments of about 600-700 mm can act as its racks. Important: the edge of the rack should go across the gable, creating additional rigidity.
• Now you can start sewing the gable with boards. It is worth doing this before laying the sheathing, so that later, if some boards go beyond the rafters, it would be easier to cut them down. If you do the opposite, you will have to adjust the corner of each board to fit the existing crate. Up to the attic floor beam, the pediment is sewn up with boards horizontally. The remaining piece of the pediment is sewn up vertically.
• Upper connections are made. Since the gable frame beams were attached to a fairly flexible floor beam, it is necessary to make a kind of stiffening truss by using the next floor beam.
• A brace is installed that bursts upper part rafters. With its base it is attached to the third floor beam from the edge, and with its end rests against the extreme point of the ridge. This element is used more often with soft roofing, when the rigidity of the ridge is not enough.

If the house is completely framed, then it is necessary to establish such connections in the floor of the first floor. If the house is reinforced concrete, then a stiffening belt already passes in the upper part of the ceiling and does not need connections.
In some cases, it is also necessary to provide for stiffness ties in the rafters. If corrugated board or metal tiles are used as roofing, then the rafters do not have to be strengthened: the sheet material will serve as a stiffness diaphragm if it is properly installed.

Fasteners of elements to each other can be very diverse, for example, staples with nails, wooden or metal linings, MZP (metal gear plates, whose teeth are driven in with a sledgehammer). It is important to remember that the length of the nails should be at least twice the thickness of the board you are nailing.

Lathing fastening

Depending on the chosen roofing, at the final stage of the construction of the attic, a crate is laid.

The crate is a structure made of beams that are laid perpendicular to the rafter legs, attached to them. The function of the batten is to bear the weight of the roofing, holding it securely in place.

Sheathing for sheeting is a continuous crate and is made of edged boards by 25mm. The width should be no more than 140mm, as wide boards tend to deform. If there is more than 1 m between the rafters, then it may be necessary to speed up the course of the rafters with special bars, and then lay out the boards. Next, roofing material or glassine is placed, and roofing material is spread on top. It should be noted that such a crate makes the roof extremely reliable and is suitable for absolutely all types of coatings, while reducing rain noise.

Sheathing for metal roofing make it rarefied and, if possible, adjust the tiles to the course of the wave. Mounted from edged boards 25(30) x 100mm in increments of 80-100cm. The peculiarity lies in the fact that before installation on the rafters, a hydro-windproof membrane is strengthened. The first board from the eaves should be installed higher than the others by the height of the wave of the tiles. If short boards are used, their joints are best staggered.

Sheathing for ceramic tiles and other piece elements is considered the most difficult. Work also begins with the installation of a hydro-barrier, and then a sparse crate is made of 50 x 50 mm bars. The difficulty is to maintain the exact rhythm between the elements, since one step is equal to the covering surface of one tile.

There are always several approaches to the process of any construction. Here we have described how to make an attic with our own hands on an already erected house, however, there are times when the attic is assembled in position on the ground and put in place with a crane, and then strengthened in the right places.

Creating an attic - a popular type of room - with your own hands today is not difficult. Let's look at all the stages of construction, as well as the pros and cons of this design.

Peculiarities

Home is a place where we would like to surround ourselves with comfort, have the opportunity to relax with our families and work. Sometimes this becomes impossible due to lack of square meters. How to make housing spacious and comfortable? Construction technologies have stepped far ahead - resources have appeared that allow you to expand the occupied space with your own hands through extensions. But if there is not enough land, then the attic will be the most successful option!

Currently, this is a fashionable design for private houses. Back in the 17th century, the attic was conceived as a way to expand housing for the poor. And thanks to the French architect Mansard (fr. Mansard), the conversion of roofs into residential apartments has become very popular among the rich. From here, by the way, the name came - attic.

Many people ask the question: "Attic or additional floor?". It is worth clarifying right away that these are two different things. Before choosing one or another option, weigh all the pros and cons, the pros and cons, consider the purpose of your home (cottage or permanent residence), your marital status, and budget. It will be much more economical to build an attic than a full-fledged second floor.

In this article, we will tell you how to significantly convert the usable area when minimum investment. And with the implementation of all the necessary activities, you can handle it on your own.

Installation and arrangement of the attic, the facade of which is completely or partially formed by the surface of a sloping roof, is a vast scope for imagination and creativity. So much space shouldn't be wasted! A great studio, office or storage space for unnecessary things will come out here. But isn't it too wasteful to turn precious square meters into a warehouse?

Typically, attic spaces are provided to children who like to be placed on high levels, and besides, low beams often cause some inconvenience to adults. This floor is the last one, and the higher, the better the view, no doubt. The presence of pipes, the proximity to the roof, a remote balcony, a sloping ceiling - all this will become a stylish help for creating an architectural design.

An objective assessment of the specifics and knowledge of the constructive qualities of this type of superstructure give a chance that everything will work out as well as possible, the load-bearing walls and foundation of the house will not be harmed, and the dwelling will last a long time. Believe me, the attic is very useful thing!

The most successful solution is a frame attic. Before you begin to develop a superstructure plan, you must make sure that the lower floor can withstand the additional load. After all, every person who encounters a building knows that the main building is placed on a supporting structure, which is calculated based on the entire mass of the building. Therefore, at the beginning of construction, it is necessary to make the necessary calculations, as well as check the foundation for cracks or any damage on it. If necessary, the base will need to be strengthened. At this stage, it is best to turn to professionals.

Based on how the roof is arranged, appearance attic can be different. As a rule, the attic occupies the entire top floor, although sometimes there are options located on one side of the longitudinal axis of the building. It is not often possible to see attics that extend beyond the lower structures.

Most often, the roof is gable or broken. A more complex type of gable configuration is popular: the roof consists of two planes, as it were. But we will discuss each of them in more detail a little later. Windows, large or small, located on the ceiling let in many times more light than ordinary windows in the rooms on the lower floors.

When choosing a roofing, observe harmony so as not to disturb the combination of the shape of the attic floor and the roof.

You can also immediately insulate the room with SIP panels. As a result, you will get a lightweight construction, which consists of more than 50% of lightweight polystyrene foam, therefore, it does not create a load on walls and ceilings.

There are several design features that cannot be ignored.

• take seriously the thermal insulation, which should be strengthened, because it is the roof that often “suffers” from frequent and sometimes strong temperature changes;
• it is important to make waterproofing conscientiously, so that over time the insulation does not get wet;
• between the thermal insulation layer and the roof, ventilation must be done properly.

The parameters of the truss structure should be determined by the further construction of thermal insulation, which is placed between the timber rafters and has a thickness of at least 20 cm. The rafters must be at least 25 by 25 cm.

The main indicators of wood that are important for the design of the system are flexural and compressive strength, the desired density and moisture content.

Wooden rafters, in turn, require treatment with antiseptics or fire and bioprotective structures and must have fire resistance limits.

Designers are advised to leave the attic space intact. Nevertheless, if it becomes necessary to separate rooms, then it is better to build partitions using drywall.

Consider also the disadvantages of this type of adjustment:

• due to the sloping roof, unlike the usual floor, the size of the attic area will be smaller;
• the height must be optimal, otherwise there will be problems with closing / opening the doors;
• psychological factor: sometimes it seems to people that there is not enough air, every time you want to bend down, a person may feel discomfort;
• regardless of the type of roofing and even correct installation soundproofing sounds from the rain will penetrate the room;
• it is important to think over the heating system correctly;
• the stairs leading to the attic may be too steep and therefore unsafe.

Design options and materials

Using the advice of experts, carefully develop a future attic project. After that, prepare the design of the attic, as this is not just a certain number of square meters, but the individuality of the facade - the pride of the building. The appearance and interior depends on the methods of coating and materials for the roof.

There are several types of roofing.

Shed

The simplest option, which is a sloping area fixed on load-bearing walls. Advantages: ease of calculation and installation work, due to its low weight, it is suitable for buildings on foundations of a simplified type. Disadvantages: not the most attractive appearance, sensitivity to loads (snow).

gable

One of the most common options. Such a structure consists of two opposite slopes, which lie on the walls of the building that serve as a support and are connected at the top with a ridge. Material investments in gable roof small enough, while it looks aesthetically attractive. The gable roof device includes: rafters, lathing, inclined planes, mauerlat, horizontal ribs, ridge, valleys, overhangs.

broken line

The broken roof structure is a subspecies of the gable roof, but with a more complex configuration. Because of the shape and the presence of broken lines, this name came about. Such a roof gives the house solidity and solidity.

Four-sided or hip

One of the strongest and most resistant to strong winds and leaks during rainfall roofing systems, where two triangular slopes are installed instead of gables. Complex installation is a minus of this design: it requires accuracy in calculating the truss system and installing the frame. For this reason, designing is usually trusted to professionals.

Multi-forceps

Among all the designs, the most complex, but at the same time the most interesting is considered to be multi-forceps. It is characterized by the presence of several gables (from 3 or more). A big plus is the ability to cover several rooms with one level. But in general, this type of attic works mainly on architectural style and design.

The attic part is divided into two types. She may be:

• single-level- enough practical option in execution, which does not require complex development and serious calculations;
• two-level- This is a building that is difficult to erect, the project of which is created immediately together with the house.

Current building technologies make it possible to make different types of balconies in the attic. To select the desired design, you should consider the design features of the lower floor. And it doesn't matter if the balcony was already included in the plan, it can be done at the end of all stages of construction.

The most successful location option is from the side of the end. In this case, the balcony will resemble a loggia. It is erected together with the attic, which allows you to use part of the roof as a canopy, and the ceiling of the floor as a floor.

Another type of construction is the option when the balcony is located in the roof part. At the stage of roofing, part of the building is left uncovered so that a balcony can be equipped there.

Drawings and calculation

The main parameter when planning the attic floor is the ceiling level, the optimal height of which should be at least 2.5 m. Make a drawing before direct construction, evaluate everything and indicate accurate calculations so that everything can be built accurately. The most ideal option is a broken line gable roof, but then as many bearing supports as possible should be installed for sufficient reliability, since this type of roof increases the pressure on the walls.

Do not forget to include the ventilation system, as well as windows and pipes in the calculations. furnace heating, if any are expected.

The height of the superstructure itself has no limit, but the lower ends must be at least 90 cm.

The plan should contain all the information about the shape features, geometric dimensions and slope angles of the slopes.

After the exact calculation of the mansard roof truss system is completed, you should purchase all necessary materials and prepare the roof. Only after that, you can start building.

Do-it-yourself attic manufacturing steps

It is very important to choose the design and style of the interior first. initial stage, as well as decide on materials for finishing. You should listen to the opinion of professional designers who advise using only high-quality raw materials. We will guide you step by step through all stages of construction.

Roof

So, the first stage is the development of a project for a new future roof in an old room. It does not matter whether it is single-pitched, double-pitched or broken, without a doubt the appearance of the result will directly depend on the structural properties of the roof, as well as the raw materials used. Make a diagram in different perspectives to better understand how to place the elements of the truss system. The most important thing is to accurately calculate the height of the roof ridge, because the size of the area under it depends on it.

We take the height of the ridge about 3.5 m - with the independent construction of the frame, which allows you to straighten up to your full height.

It is important to remember that in order to build a frame with your own hands, you must be aware of the existence of two types of truss systems: inclined and hanging. They differ from each other by the method of attaching nodes to the walls.

In houses where there is no load-bearing wall, the mechanism of hanging rafters will be used, which will be held only on the walls of the house and connected to each other with nails or screws using corner plates. In this case, the width of a single-span building, where this particular type of rafters is assumed, cannot exceed 6 m. If the parameters of the house are larger, for example, when the span width exceeds 9 m, then more struts have to be done.

In two-span houses, where there is only an average supporting wall, layered rafters are made. In this case, the three base points (two on the outer walls of the house and one on the inside) depend on the width of the building: more than 10 m - one support, and with a width of about 15 m, two supports will be needed. The rafters are attached to each other with the help of corner plates. The crate itself is made of slats or boards.

Steam and thermal insulation are key steps in creating an attic. A film is laid on top of the crate membrane type, which will protect against moisture penetration, and glass wool is laid on the inside for insulation.

The next stage is the installation of the roof, interior processing and design of walls and partitions, as well as the installation of windows.

As we have already mentioned above, the most successful will be the use of metal tiles or corrugated board as a material for roofing.

floors

First, take care of sound and thermal insulation from the floor below. This task can be accomplished in several ways: backfilling of expanded clay or laying mineral wool slabs. Both methods involve protection from moisture with hydrofilms. Also pay attention to the wooden floors. Here, the insulation is performed with dressing of the seams of the insulation and beams.

Choose the flooring of your choice. It can be ceramic, parquet or laminate.

Window

Loft windows are quite a labor intensive but worthwhile process, so consider if you can do it yourself. In fact, they do not differ much from facade ones, but there is one serious difference - a special type of opening. In addition, during installation, you will have to disassemble the metal tile, while trying to maintain waterproofing. But this is not scary, because it is thanks to the windows that the room becomes much lighter and more spacious!

It is very important to know that if snow and ice are not cleared regularly, the window may be subject to temperature changes, so it is important to select models according to the climate in which you live.

Heating selection

For a comfortable stay and use of the premises, you also need to take care of heating the attic. It should not only maintain and retain heat inside, but also be safe and economical.

It is necessary to take into account all the details at the initial stages of design. We bring to your attention several methods of heating the attic floor.

• Fireplace. Efficient, comfortable and completely safe way.
• If your house already has a heating system on the ground floor, then you only need to install additional pipes and batteries.

• Installation of an independent heating system only for the attic - the most correct solution. It is possible to install absolutely any heating boilers, while observing the necessary safety measures. But more comfortable - turbocharged gas boilers that do not require a separate room. They are wall mounted and very easy to use.
• "Warm floor". To create a comfortable microclimate in the room, you can install underfloor heating. This can be done both with your own hands and with the help of specialists. In any case, this is a fairly economical option.

An important point is the proper arrangement of ventilation. Only in this way will attic heating work well.

Warming and ventilation

Since the attic has the largest area of ​​​​contact with the street, compared to the lower floors, its insulation should be taken very carefully. Today the market offers a variety of insulating materials. However, when solving this problem regarding full-fledged thermal insulation and vapor barrier for the house, do not forget about the main conditions, and then this will not only reduce heat loss and heating costs at home, but also protect the ceiling and walls from dampness, rot and sputum, and the formation of frost on the roof . The choice of materials for the "roofing pie" must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP.

When you choose a finish in a store, focus primarily on the characteristics of your home. For example, where it is hot in summer and frosty in winter, the insulation must be resistant to external circumstances. Therefore, one of the main conditions will be thickness. The colder, the denser it should be, and, conversely, if you live in the south, where the temperature practically does not drop below zero in winter, you can choose a thinner material.

The most versatile and most budgetary - based on mineral wool, polystyrene foam is used less often. Sometimes it is possible to use a heat-insulating layer consisting of modern filling agents or materials in the form of a liquid sprayed onto the walls and solidifying into a solid form. In all these cases, the roof will come out no less stable.

With the correct assembly of the "roofing pie", the design of which consists of metal tiles or corrugated board, battens, waterproofing membrane, truss system, properly equipped under-roof space ventilation is sure to extend the life of your roof. Never play the lottery "will carry it - will not carry it", but "wind it on your mustache" the advice of experts.

To create a beautiful and cozy living space, you can use wood as a finishing material from the inside, different kinds composite panels, HPL panels (or in Russian LVD - laminate high pressure). No less popular is the attic, decorated with your own hands using drywall sheets (gypsum plasterboard).

Roofing should be made of lightweight materials: corrugated board, metal tiles and similar materials that can lighten the weight of the mechanism, taking into account the load that will be transferred to an existing building.

To begin with - before altering the attic - you need to make drawings and draw up an estimate. This way you will see in advance what difficulties you will face.

It is not easy to develop a plan for a mansard roof alone: ​​certain knowledge and skills in designing and carrying out specific calculations are important here. You can’t make mistakes: then the structure of the building will be unreliable, and besides, it can damage the overall building. Although if the idea is not too complicated, then you can do it yourself.

Everything must be included in the estimate: from the beginning of construction to the design of the premises.

Partitions

One of the easiest tasks that you can definitely do with your own hands is the device interior partitions. Usually, drywall and metal profiles are used for these purposes. Everything is done quickly and at minimal cost.

The design is simple: a frame, and gypsum boards are attached to it. At the end, the lining of the partition is made. To do this, you can use lining, block house, imitation timber or even plywood with wallpaper - a matter of taste.

Finishing work

After warming the attic, you should think about finishing. Of course, it all depends on how you will use this room. The peculiar geometry provides excellent prospects for creative design solutions. Immediately, we note that the finishing process is a complex of tasks, each of which has its own function. Let's take a closer look at finishing materials.

• The most popular material plastic lining . Advantages: uniqueness, budget, environmental friendliness. The installation of the board can be different: diagonally or in a circle, horizontal or vertical. Of the minuses, it is worth noting fragility and, perhaps, weak resistance to negative factors.

• Not the most expensive material plywood sheet. Covering the walls with them is quite easy. It also has excellent sound and heat insulating properties; no preliminary leveling of the surface is required before installation.
• Finishing the attic with drywall will allow to embody the most original design solutions: it can be used to create dropped ceilings, arches and even columns. At the same time, this material easily absorbs moisture, which is its negative side. But if you choose a special type that is resistant to moisture, then this finish will last you a very long time.

So, let's sum up and summarize the above.

To design a beautiful and high-quality attic you will need:

• careful design of the future extension;
• strengthening load-bearing walls and foundations;
• roof removal;
• erection of the frame (it will be easy enough for you to assemble it with your own hands);
• roof insulation, waterproofing;
• window installation;
• interior decoration and warming.

With excessive savings, as practice shows, the house can eventually turn out to be of poor quality and unattractive. Therefore, choose materials wisely, take into account the recommendations of experts, consult relatives and friends, as well as those who already have similar experience.

The device of the attic in an individual house is a fairly common phenomenon. This method of construction allows you to reduce the cost per square meter and create a rather interesting room in the under-roof space. In order to properly perform the device of the attic floor, it is necessary to study the basic requirements for it and choose the right type of roof and its slope.

What is an attic

According to regulatory documents, the attic floor is the volume under the roof, which is used to accommodate residential and utility rooms. At the same time, the height of the outer walls should be no more than 1.5 m in the general case, otherwise the space will be considered a full-fledged residential floor.

A do-it-yourself attic is beneficial both during construction and during the operation of a private house. In the first case, costs are reduced due to the fact that the height of the vertical enclosing structures is reduced. The roof takes on this function without ceasing to fulfill its original purpose.

An attic is an under-roof space that can be equipped as a separate room for living.

In operation, cost savings can be as follows:

1. Decreased space to be heated, consequently, there is a reduction in heating costs, which are an impressive item in the cost of utilities.
2. After the construction is completed, the house must be measured by specialists from the BTI, after which a passport of the object is issued. It is on the basis of the area values ​​\u200b\u200bgiven in it that taxes are charged and utility bills are paid (provided that they are connected to centralized systems and there are no metering devices, which is now practically not found). The area of ​​the attic floor is included in the area of ​​the whole house with coefficients of 0.7 or 0.8 depending on the height outer wall and the angle of inclination of the roof, which allows significant savings throughout the entire life of the facility.

Preparatory stage

It is worth starting construction with the development of a project or diagrams on which the future structure will be drawn. Most often, the roof that is used for the attic floor is gable, but it is also possible to use a hip four-pitched roof. double slope design allows you to provide full-fledged windows in the gables.

In the case of using a hip to illuminate the premises, it is possible to install only attic window openings. This option can become more time consuming in terms of installing roof elements and designing interiors. Cost reduction with a hip roof is achieved due to the absence of gables (especially savings will be noticeable in brick house, where the cost of materials and the installation of wall fencing is quite high).

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with determining the geometric dimensions and shapes of the roof. Earlier it was already said about the choice of the type of truss system at home (gable, hip), after which it will be necessary to decide whether the slope will be straight or broken. The broken structure has such disadvantages as increased cost and labor intensity. Its use is justified by the need to increase the height of the room by changing the angle of the roof.

At the design stage, the optimal slope of the roof is determined. Its choice depends on ergonomic considerations and the roofing material used, which imposes limitations.

Before making an attic, it is also necessary to calculate all its load-bearing elements for strength and bending, select the composition of the roof pie, perform thermotechnical calculations and decide on materials. More on this later.

Main bearing elements

The design includes the following components:

1. rafter legs, which transfer the load from the weight of the roofing and the wall to the walls of the house. The section is selected depending on the angle of inclination, span, step and design load. A professional can correctly perform a detailed calculation. For private construction, approximate values ​​\u200b\u200bcan be used, while it is best to provide a small margin.
2. Narozhniki- these are rafter legs, which, on one or both sides, are supported by slanted ones. The cross section is calculated in the same way as for rafters.
3. Slanted legs- the design used in hip roof. This element serves as a support for the sprigs. The cross section is taken depending on the load and the span, in any case it should be larger than that of the rafter legs.
4. Mauerlat- an element that serves as a support for the stops and transfers the load from the roof to the walls, evenly distributing it. It will be correct to choose a section with dimensions of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150, depending on the complexity of the object. Mauerlat is not installed during the construction of frame and wooden houses, since in this case we play the upper crown of the walls or the strapping in its role.
5. Rigel- a beam, which is also a support for the rafters, but already in the upper part. The crossbar is installed in the ridge of the roof or at the break of the slope, in case of a broken structure. The cross section should be taken depending on the conditions, as a recommended value, dimensions of 200 by 200 mm can be given.
6. Struts, racks, fights- additional elements for unfastening elements. They are used to reduce the cross section of load-bearing structures. Their cross section is most often chosen constructively. At the same time, it is important to take into account the convenience of making connections.

A do-it-yourself mansard roof should be built starting from the selection of sections of all elements of the roof frame. The material for manufacturing is selected taking into account the following conditions:

• wood must be coniferous (pine, spruce, larch);
• material grade - first or second;
• humidity not more than 15%.

Be sure to treat all boards and bars with antiseptic compounds before starting construction.

Thermal engineering calculations

To keep the heat in the house, you will need to choose the thickness of the insulation. Most often, mineral wool is used for attic rooms (more often in slabs than in mats). It is also possible to use polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Having determined what to make the heat-insulating layer from, select its thickness. It is important to consider the height of the rafters. It must always be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation. For mineral wool, it will also be necessary to provide a 50 mm ventilation gap between the upper surface of the heat insulator and the roofing. If the cross section of the rafters is small, then in order to fulfill this requirement, a counter-lattice is installed.

Before you build a mansard roof with your own hands, you can calculate it according to heat engineering manually, guided by the Joint Venture "Thermal Protection of Buildings". But it is better to turn to special programs for help. In order to correctly calculate the thickness in the Teremok program (freely available on the network), you need to know the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bconstruction of the house, the program will find the rest itself.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof is different from the usual pitched roof only with thermal insulation. More layers are also added to the cake to protect the insulation. The step-by-step instructions below will allow you to correctly install the elements of the mansard roof.

The procedure is as follows:

• fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
• installation of rafters and systems of struts and racks;
• installation of waterproofing and wind protection;
• crate;
• roofing;
• warming;
• bottom trim.

Assembling the roof frame

Installation begins with a Mauerlat. It is laid on the inner grant of the outer wall. Fastening depends on the material of the load-bearing walls, but in general it can be done in several ways:

• on staples;
• on studs;
• on the anchor.

For fragile materials of the walls of the house, such as aerated concrete and foam concrete, a monolithic belt is made along the edge, which will prevent the destruction of the walls. For wooden and frame houses Mauerlat is not provided.

Next, you need to install the crossbars, if any. After the supporting structures are laid, the rafter legs are laid out. The fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat can be rigid and articulated. It is better to do it with the use of cutting and fixing with metal corners on both sides.

This is a fairly old album, so nails are used as fasteners in all the drawings in it. It is better to replace them with studs. The design of the roof of the house in this regulatory document is shown in great detail, so it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with it before starting work.

Before starting the installation of insulation in the house, it is necessary to ensure its protection from negative influences. environment. To do this, a moisture-windproof membrane is spread over the surface and the crate is fixed. After that, the roofing is mounted, taking into account the recommendations for the selected material. For example, for shingles you need a solid crate, which is most often made of moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation of thermal insulation

To perform the insulation of the house, you need to install a heater without gaps and cracks. For mineral wool, it will be easier to install if the distance between the rafters is 580 or 1180 mm clean. This will allow you to lay the material with a slight expansion, which will prevent cracks.

When using expanded polystyrene, the distance between the plates and rafters is filled with sealant or mounting foam.

After laying the insulation, you need to fix the vapor barrier to it from below. After that, the lower crate and ceiling lining are mounted. For the attic, sheathing with two layers of drywall 12.5 mm thick along the frame is best suited, followed by finishing.

Free space under the roof of the house can be converted into a residential attic. This is not only a rational option to turn the attic space into a functional area, but also a great way to increase the usable area. Turning an attic into a room today is not difficult. Fortunately, there are advanced technologies for this and modern materials. Often, all work is carried out independently, taking into account the nuances of such a room. The arrangement of a free zone under the roof is useful not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from a functional one. When carrying out work on the arrangement of the upper part of the house, the mansard roof is additionally insulated.

Peculiarities

The popularity of houses with an attic is explained by the peculiarity of the architecture of the building. The attic got its name from the founder, the French architect Francois Mansart, back in the 17th century. Since then, it has become convenient to use the last floors of buildings, although initially they were allocated for household needs, it was not a living or warm room.

Today it is quite possible, for example, to equip an additional bathroom. But more often the room is modified for an additional bedroom, living room or playroom for children. The attic will never be a living room in the traditional sense due to the broken roof and technical nuances. However, this does not prevent many from planning the construction of houses, taking into account additional meters, just in case. Like any building, an attic room in a private house has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth mentioning the following main advantages of a functional room in a private house:

• no additional structures are required;
• the building is able to increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house;
• no need to solve problems with sealing buildings;
• you can beat the design of the external appearance of the building;
• even a two-level design is reliable;
• heat losses are reduced (this is especially noticeable in winter);
• in the process of arranging the attic, as a rule, major repairs are not required.

When evaluating the quality of the building as a whole, it would be useful to recall the shortcomings of the attic:

• sometimes this is not an opportunity to increase space, but a clear “loss” of useful meters (mainly in old houses);
• problems may appear in the presence of sloping ceilings and walls;
• hydro and thermal insulation of the house leaves much to be desired (what to say about the attic);
• old roof windows sometimes cause a lot of problems.

Features of the attic floor often lie in the fact that this room itself (more often in modern houses) extends almost along the entire perimeter of the house. In this regard, it is often necessary to modify or supplement the facade of the house (parapets, niches, ledges, decorative elements) in accordance with technical features roofs. In individual construction, the possibility of completing or altering the mansard roof is provided.

Types of roof structures

For individual construction, the use of various options roofing system.

Particular attention is paid to the construction of a mansard roof, which differs in the main types of structures:

• single or gable (broken, gable);
• hip and semi-hip.

Characteristic features for each type determine the possibility of arranging the attic.

Today, in addition to traditional, more modern forms are used:

• shed mansard roof with a sloping area (mounted on load-bearing walls);
• rigid gable mansard roof with a slope on opposite sides;
• sloping roof (installation of a gable roof option);
• a hip or half-hip roof with four slopes (the end slopes of the hip roof differ in shape in the form of beveled triangles (the gable area is protected at the half-hip roof);
• pyramidal (also called tented) types of roofs, which are not widespread, are distinguished by their polygonal shapes.

The shape of the roof is not the only distinguishing feature of a modern mansard roof. What matters is the height of the building and the nature of the coating (corrugated board, metal, you can make plastic tiles).

Separately, it is worth highlighting the universal distinctive features mansard roof:

• it is not only the roof, but also the walls of the house;
• the maximum height of the building is not more than 2.5 m;
• possibility of installation plastic windows with tempered glass;
• multilayer structure;
• the cost of a mansard roof is ultimately more than a regular one.

Even when designing a house, you can choose the most suitable shape of the roof, if necessary, lengthen the rafter legs (layering from the walls is about 50-55 cm), calculate the loads and allocate space for windows.

Types and sizes

Highest point the height of the under-roof space must be at least 2.5 m in order to consider this room as an attic. Otherwise, it's already an attic. According to SNiP, you can set the minimum value from ceiling to floor.

Differences in the types of attic roofing are determined by the following values:

• semi-attic - with a vertical wall height of less than 0.8 m;
• attic - with a wall height of 0.8 to 1.5 m;
• floor - with a wall height of more than 1.5 m.

The width of the structure is another main component for determining the type of attic. Minimum norms in width - not less than 80 cm. For a residential attic, this indicator (width) increases to 2 m, especially if the width of the house itself is at least 4.8 m. As for the building area, set given parameter possible with a special formula. Calculations are carried out in accordance with building codes and rules. The area of ​​​​an ordinary attic cannot be less than 16 square meters. m. The attic project covers everything structural elements- roof slopes, supporting walls, gables, rafters. The type and size of the attic room is fully taken into account.

In general, the work on the arrangement of the attic is as follows:

1. the roof is checked;
2. lathing is carried out (from wooden boards);
3. fastening of insulating materials is carried out;
4. the top of the truss structure is strengthened;
5. stiffeners are checked (if necessary, replaced) - rafters for the roof;
6. beams are laid along the perimeter of the outer walls, they are connected to the rafter structure;
7. diagonal bevels (ties) are performed to give strength to the mansard roof;
8. supporting supports are strengthened.
9. A waterproofing layer is laid, insulation.

Useful area calculation

When arranging the under-roof space, it is important to correctly calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic space. The size, size, height of the attic, especially the angle of inclination are closely related in the calculations. Any redevelopment is carried out in accordance with the norms of SNiPa. So, according to this provision, the minimum height of the dwelling under the roof is 2.5 m. The slope of the roof affects the calculation of the height of the room. Thanks to the calculations during the design, it is possible to reflect the real parameters of the upper floor of the house to obtain a usable area.

You can do the attic area yourself when calculating, but the initial data will depend on the following parameters:

• slope level of 30 degrees (in the narrowest part of the slope, the height is 1.5 m);
• slope level of 45 degrees (in the narrowest part of the slope, the height is 1.1 m);
• the slope level is 60 degrees and above (at the narrowest part of the slope, the height is 0.5 m).

To calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure, the smallest height is taken and and is multiplied by 0.7 (reducing factor). Then, for the minimum level of the walls of the attic with a slope of 30 degrees, an indicator of 1.2 m is obtained; from 45 to 60 degrees - 0.8 m; over 60 degrees - do not limit. It is important to remember that a successful attic project with a modern roof requires accurate and accurate calculations, for this you can use specially designed computer programs(a scheme of work will appear before your eyes).

Design and materials

When choosing materials for the construction of the attic, timber is traditionally chosen, and aerated concrete is also actively used. But there are other options for building and finishing materials for construction, the main thing is that it be frame technology. The choice is made based on the type of structure and its size, taking into account the configuration of the roof and the slope of the walls. Best suited for attic frame wooden rafters, moreover, it is important that they are perfect - without cracks and knots, especially without traces of decay.

As for the choice of aerated concrete, it is a fairly cheap and easy-to-install material. In addition, it is strong and durable. Aerated concrete blocks can be further processed with a special tool. However, due to the lime, which is part of the material, aerated concrete cannot be classified as environmentally friendly materials. Instead, you can use corrugated board, foam blocks or sip panels. The advantages of the foam block include a sufficient level of noise and heat insulation.

When arranging the under-roof space great importance has competent design and drawings. Modern mansard roofs enjoy well-deserved popularity not only in summer cottage construction. More and more different options for small country houses with an equipped attic appears in our open spaces. It's all about the rationality and efficiency of such a room. Of interest are ready-made schemes of roof structures, which imply an attic in a classic form, although the alteration of space even in an old house is not always capital. Most of the schemes are not very complex, so the entire attic or balcony can be designed and made by hand. There are separate schemes for finished structures, where beams and ceilings do not even change.

Engage in design should be at the initial stage of construction or repair. The attic floor is included in the project of the house. And the choice of roofing type largely depends on how successful the building as a whole will be. The finished attic space can also be skillfully converted and equipped, turning it into a full-fledged functional room. Thanks to modern technologies and materials, today it is not a problem to design an attic floor in finished house. The project can be selected by the type of attic.

Forms

The room under the roof is given a special role so that it can be used comfortably.

To this end, a number of requirements are imposed on the attic space under the attic:

• the shape of the attic should be as convenient as possible;
• you need to pay attention to warming;
• room lighting is also important.

Proper planning will help to realize many useful ideas. The geometric shape of the attic has become a classic of the genre. Such a roof can be triangular or broken, with symmetrical or asymmetrical sides relative to the walls of the building. The floor itself can be located both on one of the sides and across the entire width, even somewhat going beyond the boundaries of the outer walls. Some of these projects involve the installation of additional supporting structures, for example, in the form of columns or walls.

In general, roof structures can be designed as follows:

• in the form of a separate multi-level floor;
• solid floor with two-level development;
• two-level floor with the base of the mezzanine floor.

load-bearing walls roof structures usually consist of two parts:

• vertical wall (wall material for the construction can be used the same as in the construction of the lower floors);
• inclined wall (the truss system serves as its frame, and the roof serves as the outer skin).

The ratio in the project of all these elements among themselves depends on the design as a whole. The shape of the mansard roof gives the whole house a special look. Attic premises of a residential type may vary in the shape of the roof.

Basically, it is customary to distinguish the following types:

• shed roof (without sidewalls, with a single roof space);
• gable roof (a complicated design that allows you to design a comfortable attic floor, taking into account skylights);
• a broken gable roof with a characteristic silhouette (slopes can be bent inward or bent outward).

A competent project allows you to "free up" the desired usable area. It can be increased by installing a vertical, attic wall. It should be noted that the usable area hipped roof less than double. This is due to the large number of bevels that do not allow free design roof space. Optimal use standard project attic.

Since the height of the attic floor is important, it affects the usable area. In addition, the height distinguishes the type of room under the roof. For the overall picture, it does not hurt to study the typical project attic construction in a cut.

Let's consider what it is.

1. If the height of the vertical wall of the roof space is more than 1.5 m, then this is already a full-fledged floor. In the center of the structure, you can move freely without bending over. With an attic wall height of more than 2 m, we can talk about a functional room, which in terms of comfort will resemble a typical room.
2. If the attic has a single or gable roof with an attic wall height of about 0.8 m (up to a maximum of 1.5 m), then this design is characterized by increased functionality.
3. The presence of walls less than 0.8 m high (or if vertical walls absent) may indicate an insufficiently functional room.

There are several ways to turn the attic into a functional room, more convenient and rational. The general tone is set by the interior of the roofing room. Sometimes for its arrangement it may be necessary extraordinary solutions, but it is better to follow known and proven rules in work. So, the quality characteristics of the attic largely depend on the purpose of the room. For example, it is convenient to turn a small, narrow attic into an extra bedroom. The high attic allows you to equip an entire guest floor under the roof. It is also important what furniture will be in the room and, accordingly, you can build in a wardrobe or put a rack.

It is important to comply with two general requirements:

• for a large room, the height of the walls to the floor from the ceiling is not less than 2.2 m;
• the height of the attic walls from the level of the bed is about 1.4 m.

A competent ceiling device will improve the proportions of the room under the roof to the desired ones (in accordance with the standards).

Device

Do-it-yourself construction of an attic roof implies a strong foundation and a reliable floor, the presence of reinforcing supports to ease the load due to the attic floor (the attic needs to be further strengthened). Sometimes it is necessary to further strengthen the foundation of the house or redo a separate foundation. Professional skills are indispensable here.

stingrays

Even at the initial stage of the attic device, it is necessary to resolve all issues related to the design features of the building, taking into account all the partitions. The house may have slopes that affect the design features as a whole. And the under-roof space itself can differ in a variety of forms. The interior decoration of the attic will depend on the features inside roof structure. If the roof of the house is constructed in a special way, then you will have to remove the old rafters and materials, replacing them with new ones, taking into account the specifics of the project (additional load, angle of inclination and other design features the buildings).

truss system

The entire truss structure must be calculated and designed for the type of attic floor. The best option for typical house- production of an attic floor with a broken gable roof. Such a roof has a large load on the walls, however, the combined area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic space is most often equipped in this way. At the same time, it is important to comply with the requirement for the presence of additional bearing supports (installation of inclined rafters designed for vertical and horizontal loads). When installing the rafter system, the Mauerlat is installed, after which the rafter legs are assembled and installed. The installation of the rafters is carried out, starting from two opposite legs, they are pulled on top of each other (the installation accuracy must be adjusted). This is how the frame of the truss system is installed, after which the crate is performed, which depends on the roofing material.

Roof

When constructing the upper floor, it is important to take into account the complexity of the attic roof. It differs from a typical roof in that it bears the functional load of a residential and under-roof space. The ceiling of the house is a mansard roof with the necessary sound and heat insulation layers, with the finishing of the room. It should be as warm, comfortable, spacious and light as possible. An additional crate of the roof structure will improve the quality of the thermal insulation of the attic floor, although mineral wool can serve as the main insulation for these purposes.

High-quality finishing of the roof-ceiling depends on the purpose of using the attic. So, for example, lining, fiberboard, plywood sheets are traditionally used for summer cottages. Finishing of residential premises is carried out more substantial and expensive materials. Roofing material for exterior decoration creates comfort for the interior of the attic. In this case, slate, bitumen-based materials and modern tiles are traditionally used. It is better not to use metal sheets, they do not retain heat and create additional noise during rain, wind. It is also better to refuse roofing material, since in summer it heats up a lot, releasing a specific smell.

Window

The correct frame of the roof structure includes the arrangement of windows. They are installed between the rafters. For the reliability of the window attachment points (bottom and top of the structure), horizontal lintels from a bar are placed.

Installation of roof windows is carried out in stages:

• build an opening for a window;
• mount a frame with a dismantled double-glazed window;
• lay insulation and a layer of waterproofing;
• carry out fastening of the gutter of the window structure;
• install details;
• return the dismantled double-glazed window to its place;
• perform interior decoration.

There is not always a constructive opportunity to build or expand the usable area of ​​​​the house by adding a full-fledged upper floor or side building. To increase the space in small houses, it is best to use the attic. It does not take up much space, but it allows you to “unload” the house a little, saving on construction.

In order to build an attic or make it from an attic, you need to stock up on materials:

• rafters are made of wooden beams (with a section of 50x180 cm);
• the crate is made of a wooden board;
• end wall cladding is made of wall panels;
• fastening of roofing elements is carried out on self-tapping screws, nails, metal profiles and metal corners;
• during construction, heat-insulating, vapor-proofing and waterproofing materials are necessarily used;
• roofing material is used at the finishing stage;
• at the end, the interior decoration of the room is done from modern facing materials, the main heating is installed.

Before starting work, it is important to make sure that the floors that are located between the first floor and the attic are sufficiently strengthened. Loads need to be calculated. After making sure that the fasteners are reliable, you can proceed to the arrangement of the truss system. In the process of work, the quality of the connections of each element of the system is controlled. For a sloping roof project, support beams with end walls are first mounted. After that, work begins on the collection of the frame structure of the truss system.

Separate elements of the truss system are fastened with a groove-ledge connection and with metal plates for greater reliability. The use of all wooden elements is possible after special treatment for additional protection. Flame retardant treatment is also required to reduce flammability wooden structures. After assembling the truss system, they proceed to the processing of the bevels of the walls and internal partitions.

An obligatory stage during the construction of the attic is the ventilation of the attic floor. It was enough for the attic to ensure the ventilation of the room. The attic building must meet the requirements of the dwelling. Ventilation problems can lead to heat loss, moisture condensation, and rot. All these external factors can lead to subsequent destruction. Simple ventilation is ineffective here, forced ventilation of the system and insulation is necessary.

Next, the arrangement of several layers of the mansard roof is carried out: the very top is a roofing material, under it is a waterproofing material, crate, heat-insulating and vapor barrier material, ceiling decoration. It is important to emphasize that the sequence of multi-layer stacking cannot be changed. Installation of insulation is carried out on the truss system. There is a gap between the insulation and the roof for natural ventilation. In some cases, insulation (mineral wool and other fire-resistant insulator) is laid on the crate.

The heat-insulating layer is about 25-30 cm thick. For reliable fixation of this layer, an additional frame perpendicular to the rafters can be used. A vapor barrier in the form of a breathable membrane and a waterproofing material are attached at some distance from the insulation. It is worth considering that not only the roof should be insulated, but also the walls of the attic room to ensure greater comfort. It turns out a "pie", which ensures the reliability and strength of the structure. Finishing the roof-ceiling is done in the usual way - with plywood sheets, ceiling tiles, drywall, clapboard.

Decorative decoration of the attic depends on the overall design of the room. Usually the walls and ceiling are covered with wallpaper in the style of the whole house. Walls can also be painted or plastered.

Warming and soundproofing

The main sound insulation in the attic room falls on the floors. Noise reduction is necessary to ensure comfort in the upper part of the floor, and so that excess noise does not spread to neighboring rooms.

For this purpose, old proven methods and new technologies are used:

• polyethylene foam with foil is laid on the logs (on one side);
• sand 5 cm thick is poured between the beams.

Properly executed soundproofing dampens impact noise from above, whether it be steps, falling objects. For sound absorption, mineral wool, polystyrene or felt, as well as basalt slabs, are often used. It also provides vapor barrier and thermal insulation.

Due to the constant contact of the attic roof with atmospheric loads, summer overheating or winter cooling of the roof, it is necessary to carry out work on additional insulation of the attic. To do this, even at the stage of erection under the slate or other flooring, a special protective layer of insulation and films against moisture are laid. The main scope of work on waterproofing the attic is carried out from the inside after the completion of the main stage of construction.

It is important to leave a small space between the roofing layer and the insulation for natural ventilation. Today, additional external insulation of the attic is being carried out modern means so as not to reduce the useful area inside attic building. The light weight of the insulation does not allow the structure to sag or deform. On sale there are special heaters - materials for spraying. They create a uniform, durable surface that prevents the appearance of moisture.

Finishing

Original and practical solutions for cladding a wooden or brick attic room give free rein to imagination. The design of the attic is largely determined by the overall design decision, but sometimes the most daring ideas are used. Facing the attic floor is primarily associated with features finished construction. In this regard, the interior decoration of the attic has a number of features.

It is necessary to pay attention to several points.

1. The presence of skylights affects the internal appearance of the attic. They are located on the slopes of the roof. An ordinary window is placed on a flat wall, the room gets more light.
2. Can you think of unusual design attic walls, for example, in colorful shades that contrast with the color of the ceiling or floor.
3. The bevels of the mansard roof can be designed in a designer way, emphasizing all the unusual design of the attic room.
4. The special atmosphere of the attic room is given by non-standard furniture (for example, irregular shape). A low, non-equiangular cabinet will fit perfectly in the narrow and low part of the attic.
5. A large attic area can be divided into functional zones.