Do-it-yourself siding installation. Finishing the house with vinyl, metal and basement siding. Step-by-step instructions for installing all elements of siding with your own hands How to install vinyl siding correctly

Siding is one of the building materials for wall cladding. With it, you can completely change the appearance of a private house at a low cost, if the house is still solid, but already quite old. In addition, finishing, sheathing with siding is used outside.

Laid on top of the insulation, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide to make such changes to the appearance of their home. And all the work will help to do the right step-by-step instructions for self-plating the house with siding.

A bit of history

This type of sheathing was invented by our Pomors. For hunting, strong, light ships were needed. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship plating was used. Actually, the very word siding (Siding) is translated as tes. Northern peoples have adopted this technology to insulate their homes by sheathing their homes with battens. In addition to insulation, this technology made it possible to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular with Russian pioneers.

Today, siding is made from modern building materials:

Vinyl;
metal;
Cement (fiber cement siding);
tree.

Various types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private house without significant financial costs.

Preparing for sheathing

Preparatory work for cladding a house with siding is not very difficult. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If there are visible influxes of masonry mortar, they just need to be knocked down. Protruding nails or drive back or remove altogether. Small protrusions, more than 6 mm high, should also be eliminated if possible.

Inspection

When inspecting the house, it is also necessary to identify the unevenness of the walls, basement, corners, window openings and other architectural elements- in general, wherever facing work is planned with siding. Such measurements are best done using a long standard metal rail, cord and tape measure. Deviation from the plane is permissible no more than 12 mm. In local places - no more than 6 mm.

Simply put, if the entire wall is not rectangular, but diamond-shaped, then the difference in diagonals should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door - 6 mm.

The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, plinth) should not exceed 12 mm.
The building can eventually sink to one side and tilt. The slope of the wall or the entire building is checked with a plumb line. Allowed deviation from the vertical is not more than 25 mm. If the slope of the entire building is more than allowed, then it is already in a pre-emergency state. If it is not eliminated, then further siding work is simply meaningless.

Preparatory work

After checking the geometry of the building, it is required to carry out a complex preparatory work. The platbands, drains, gratings, etc. are removed. If cracks are found in the walls, near the windows and doorways- close or with the help polyurethane foam, or just cement mortar. If you find: cracked plaster, peeling paint, areas covered with mold - thoroughly clean such areas. Treat wooden walls with any antiseptic.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on facing the house with siding, make sure that complete set improvised tools:

Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
Hammer;
Roulettes (with laser it is easier and more convenient to work);
Building level;
Stairs.

How to cut extensions

When facing the building, part of the finishing panels is used entirely. But in some places you will have to make additions from the same material. Depending on what material will be used for cladding, siding, a tool for cutting panels is also selected.

For vinyl

Electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade;
Bulgarian;
Sharp knife-cutter;
Universal;
Hacksaw for metal;
Shoe knife.

metal siding

hacksaw for metal;
metal scissors;
circular electric saw with teeth from Pobedit.

Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the cut site, with damage to the protective top layer.

Material

If you want to do all the cladding work yourself, in order to purchase the entire necessary material you can just contact a large hardware store. It is enough for the seller to simply describe in detail what area of the walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of material for work.

And in order to control the quality of the goods, you need to know what signs the material for cladding the house with siding should correspond to:

The same thickness throughout the panel.
Mandatory presence of special markings on the inside of the panel. Such marking carries all the necessary information on the material: color, batch number, release date. If there was not enough material for sheathing during the work, you can always buy it in addition, focusing on this marking.
High-quality panels have an anti-hurricane lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fasteners.
A sure sign that a company takes care of its image is the presence of additional elements and accessories in a set with materials.
All products must be provided with certificates and warranties. The minimum warranty period for coverage should be 50 years.
Responsible sellers will definitely attach instructions for installing siding to the purchased product.

Lathing installation

First, markup is done. Straight lines are drawn on the walls of the house, so that a closed contour is obtained. To make the line horizontal, a horizontal level helps. At the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to make measurements with a tape measure to determine the minimum distance to the base. When the minimum distance is set at this level, the string for the contour is pulled. The starting bar will be mounted on it.

The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the mounting horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.

This is necessary in order to constantly circulate air under the siding, preventing the appearance of mold.
For walls made of brick and concrete, the guides are made of a special profile. For log walls, slats with a section of 60x40 mm, treated with an antiseptic solution, are used.

Waterproofing and insulation

If the crate is installed on wooden and aerated concrete walls required to install waterproofing.

Insulation of the walls with a mineral plate is carried out at the request of the owner of the house, but a moisture-windproof membrane must be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, a waterproofing layer is attached on top of it. Since a ventilation gap between the insulation panels and the siding is required, a crate is built over the insulation layer.

Guides

Now that the insulation is in place and the batten is ready, it's time to install siding accessories such as:

external and internal elements at the corners of the structure;
slats for window and door openings;
ebbs on the basement of the building and windows.

The basement drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding bar so that the upper edge runs along the line. Corner elements are fixed rigidly on self-tapping screws at the very top of the extreme hole. The screws following it are twisted into the middle of the slot in 50 cm increments.

Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be increased by another, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.

Framing the window begins with the installation of the ebb. It protrudes beyond the window opening by 8-10 cm on both sides. Side window trims are installed on this ledge. From below, the ebb is held by a j-profile. After installing the siding, window decoration is completed by installing platbands.

The process of edging a doorway is almost the same as a window.

Panel installation

The process of installing siding panels is somewhat similar to LEGO constructor. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from the bottom is attached to the first (starting) bar with light pressure until a click appears from the bottom. From above, through the slots, they are fastened with self-tapping screws in the center, so that the siding moves into them without visible effort. Fastening is carried out from the center to the edges of the building, in increments of 40 cm.

All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with a finishing bar.

Basic installation rules

It is imperative to avoid rigid fastening of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the plate.
Maintain a gap of 10 mm between the slats and guides. This will protect the siding from damage as it expands in hot weather.
Facing a house with siding can be done in any weather, but it should be taken into account that in frost the material becomes brittle and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.

Watch the video:

I have the following problem. The house is of an old construction, and it is simply necessary to insulate the corner room, in winter it is cold, damp and there is mold on the walls. There is not enough money to cover the whole house, so we decided to start from this place. This is an extension, and not very well made. Deviation from the plane, about 20 mm. So far, we have decided that the horizontal lining will show all the flaws, and the vertical one will hide it, but we doubt it.

The question arose before winter to sheathe the house with siding. Since I am not a builder myself, I encountered this for the first time. re-read a bunch different advice, sites that tell what and how to do. But so that someone specifically and put everything on the shelves, I did not find it. I came across this article. I read and understood everything very carefully. What, how to do it and what is needed. I ended up buying metal siding. beige colour and set to work. Since it was a vacation, everything was done quickly with a friend. It's good that the house is recently built, so all the corners and walls are even. There were practically no difficulties. As a result, a satisfied wife and beautiful house. Thanks for the article, it was very helpful.

Vinyl siding is a fairly simple material to work with with your own hands. We provide step-by-step illustrated instructions for self-assembly.

Siding is installed either directly on the walls of the house, or on a pre-mounted crate. If a crate is planned, then installing it with your own hands will also be the first step in installing the siding.

Siding installation

The entire installation process with your own hands or by workers can be divided into the following installation steps:

We mark and fasten the starting J-profiles

When installing DIY siding, especially for the first time, it is best to invest as much time in starting profiles as needed.

Using the building level, determine the lowest point on the crate, make an indent 5 cm up from it and make a mark on the grate with a shallowly screwed self-tapping screw (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1: Starting profiles must be installed strictly horizontally

Moving around the house, continue to mark with self-tapping screws in the corners of the house where the starting J-profiles are attached - until you return to the first mark.

If everything is measured accurately, the start and finish points will match!

Pull on the cords screwed in at the corners (Fig. 1).

Mark the borders of the corner profiles on the laths - attach the profile itself to the corner of the crate and mark the edges with a pencil (Fig. 2).

Moving along the cord, leave a horizontal indent of 6 mm from the border of the corner profiles, fasten the J-profiles to the laths.

Do not forget about the technological indent of 10-12 mm between the profiles so that they do not touch during temperature changes.

There must also be a gap between the profiles and the nail strips (Fig. 3).

If desired, instead of an indent of 6 mm, you can cut the nail strips with metal scissors so that they do not rest against the starting profile during temperature changes (Fig. 4).

Very important: when working with your own hands, pay maximum attention to ensuring that the start profiles are installed strictly horizontal!

A littered level during do-it-yourself installation will lead to the fact that a number of siding panels will also be skewed. Correcting this situation will be very difficult and it may result in a violation of the installation technology.

It is better to spend any amount of time on keeping the profiles level horizontally - the time spent will pay off!

Installation of external corner profiles

Before installation outside corners, install or mark the spotlights to see where their edges will go.

Attach the profile to the corner of the crate so that the indentation to the roof or soffit is 3 mm and fix it by installing a self-tapping screw at the top of the mounting hole on both sides.

The corner profile will be hung with a 3 mm offset from the soffit, the lower edge of the profile should be placed 6 mm below the starting profile (Fig. 5).

Check the verticality a couple of times and, if everything is in order, fix the bottom, and then the rest of the fasteners. We recommend that you do not place fasteners in the corner profile too often.

2 potential questions when installing do-it-yourself:

The height of the house exceeds 3 meters - the profile is shorter
What if the house has protruding parts (such as a plinth or porch)?

If you need a length of more than 3 meters: the profiles will have to be superimposed on each other, for this, cut the upper profile so that there is an indent of 9 mm between the fastening strips of the joined profiles, and the overlap of the profiles is 25 mm (Fig. 6).

Important: the joints of the profiles are made at the same level on all sides of the facade!

If the plinth protrudes: it's simple - the profile needs to be shortened so that it does not reach the 6 mm base.

2 J-profiles (starting profiles) can be used instead of a special corner one - this will help save money on do-it-yourself installation. The disadvantage of the solution is that the corner will turn out to be less sealed from precipitation - it is better to glue the wall surface around such an angle with a strip of rolled waterproofing (Fig. 7).

Installation of internal corner profiles

At the inner corners, the profiles are mounted in the same way as on the outer corners - leave a 3 mm indent to the soffit at the top, and make the lower end 6 mm below the stratum profile.

An indent of 6 mm must remain until the protruding element below, if any (for example, a protruding plinth).

In the case of a protruding element at the bottom, the internal corner profile should not rest against it - there should be a gap of 6 mm.

There are 3 options for making internal corners:

If the wall is higher than 3 m, the profiles on the inner corners are spliced absolutely identical to the outer ones - it is very easy to do it yourself.

An indent of 9 mm is left between the mounting strips (excess vinyl is removed with metal scissors), the top panel is on the bottom by 25 mm. Fasteners are placed every 40 mm, in the center of the mounting holes, fasteners at the highest point are placed in the upper part of the mounting hole.

Mounting the framing of openings

When installing siding with your own hands, framing openings, as a rule, raises the most questions. Consider 2 mounting options:

Openings are in the same plane with the walls or protrude from the walls
The openings are in the niche of the walls

If window or door openings are in the same plane with a facade, starting J-profiles or platbands are attached to them.

You must first waterproof the openings!

You will need 2 horizontal and 2 vertical platbands per opening. To calculate the size of the platband, the length of the side of the opening is taken and increased by twice the height of the platband - this additional distance will be required so that the platbands beautifully and imperceptibly connect at the junction.

Profiles (platbands) are connected as follows (Fig. 9):

Make bridge cuts on the top profile on both sides (which are equal to its height)
Bend down these bridges - precipitation and moisture should go along them from the upper profile to the lower
Remove bits of vinyl on the side profiles that interfere with the connection to the top
Connect the top and side profiles (bent bridges will be inside the profiles)

The lower casing is connected in the same way, only the bridges are cut and bent not on the lower, but on the side profiles in order to impose them on the lower profile.

If the facade and the framed opening are in the same plane, then the cut pieces of vinyl are bent inside the lower profile or simply removed.

If the framed opening, on the contrary, is recessed, then when mounting the near-window profile with your own hands, follow the same principles as with the platband - cuts are made in the profile equal to the depth of the opening niche, which are bent and inserted into the finishing profiles (Fig. 10-12).

In order not to get confused when you do the installation of siding with your own hands, it is important to understand the meaning of bending such tongues - they should always close the joint of the profiles, to let moisture escape and didn't get in. This logic will help evaluate the correctness of the connection.

Installation of the first panel

When installing do-it-yourself siding, the installation of the first panel requires maximum attention as well as the installation of the starting profile.

We recommend starting the installation of siding (especially with your own hands) from the least noticeable side of the house - in order to fill your hand and work out possible mistakes.

The panel is inserted into the lock of the starting strip and into the corner profile - it is necessary to leave a 6 mm indent to the bottom of the corner profile lock, in case of changing the dimensions of the panel (Fig. 13). After that, without tension, attach the panel to the obreshetka.

Technological indents must be strictly observed: when installing with your own hands in winter, the panel (solid) can increase in size by 18 mm (maximum value).

Under the influence of the sun, the panel will also change its dimensions, and then in winter it will jump out of the lock of the adjacent profile, if too much indent was left for thermal expansion.

In the summer season - 6 mm
In winter - 9 mm

Panel extensions

Panels are built up either with an H-profile or with an overlap.

When installing overlapping siding panels with your own hands, cut the fastening frames and panel locks so that the overlap length is 25 mm (as in the case of profiles) (Fig. 14).

Attach the H-profile in the same way as external and internal corner profiles - at the top, the indentation from the soffit is 3 mm, and lower it 6 mm below the starting profile at the bottom. In case of protruding obstacles on the façade, leave a 6 mm clearance to the obstacle so that the H-profile does not touch it (Fig. 15).

The H-profile is overlapped, according to the same principles as the internal-external corner profiles.

Installation of other panels

When installing siding with your own hands, check the siding surface for horizontality on every third row of panels.

When the opening mark is reached, on the panel that falls on the opening, calculate and remove the unnecessary part of the vinyl - you need to cut off the width of the opening from the panel, increased by a double technological indent of 6 mm.

By removing excess vinyl from the ends of the panel, you will ensure a minimum vertical technological offset of 1-2 mm, and the cut ends of the panel will be able to move in the window profile lock if necessary (Fig. 16).

In order for the panels to be securely fastened, “hooks” are needed - you will need a special punch (punch).

An additional finishing profile is inserted into the lower trim of the opening to align the siding in the plane, since the depth of trimming the panels depends on the height of the opening on the facade and may vary.

Rice. Figure 17: Installing the Siding Finish Panel on the Wall

Further steps when installing siding with your own hands:

Measure distances in different places between the lock of the penultimate siding panel and the bottom of the lock of the finishing profile
Subtract from this value a technological indent of 1-2 mm
Mark out the whole siding panel, remove the top part with the lock
Make "hooks" bend to the front side, on the top of the panel (step 20 cm)
Insert the trimmed panel into the penultimate panel and click into the lock of the finishing profile upwards

Mounting the pediment

Sheathe the perimeter of the gable by positioning the fasteners as follows: the top fastener is at the top of the fastening hole, the rest are in the center. You can use both J-profiles and profile for internal corners.

Do-it-yourself installation of panels is identical to the walls. The edges of the panels are trimmed and inserted into the locks of the receiving profiles. Don't forget to make a technological indent here as well.

The amount of indentation between the siding and the bottom of the castle (gutters):

6 mm - in the summer
9 mm in winter

The final (final) gable panel is attached directly through the vinyl - this is absolutely the only place where it is possible to attach the siding in this way.

The only time you can attach a siding panel right through the vinyl is the last panel.

Siding is a popular material for facade cladding. A practical homeowner chooses this particular type of decoration for the exterior walls of the house. Siding has a lot of undeniable advantages. Among them, the presentable appearance of the panels and the ease of their installation.

The market offers two types of siding: vinyl and metal. There are no fundamental differences in the installation of these materials. But there is a significant difference in characteristics.

Vinyl significantly more affected by temperature environment. When heated, it expands; when cooled, it contracts. This feature is taken into account in the panel production technology: they are designed in such a way that during installation, the damping gap necessary to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the lamellas remains.

Vinyl siding has a significantly lower frost resistance than metal siding. Therefore, with prolonged exposure to low temperatures, it becomes brittle. This feature of vinyl must be considered by those homeowners who live in regions with a harsh climate. When hitting a fragile frozen vinyl lamella, cracks will certainly appear on it.

Unlike metal, plastic panels are not fire resistant. But they can be used as additional insulation of the facade.

IN last years a modernized version of vinyl siding has appeared, which is more resistant to ultraviolet radiation (does not lose its color saturation from sunlight) and has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion. It is a siding "under the rounded log". It looks more attractive than the flat panels that are sheathed in kiosks and industrial buildings. Therefore, it is able to make the facade of a residential building cozy and spectacular.

Differs in wide colors, but much less often used for facing private houses.

There are several reasons for this:

it has the property of heating up in the cold, thereby reducing the thermal protection of the walls;
during rain, quite loud sounds characteristic of metal appear.

To cladding wooden house vinyl or metal siding was made with the highest quality, along with the panels they acquire additional elements that are required for finishing window and door openings, gables, slopes. These are elements such as:

start and finish line;
spotlights;
J and H profile;
external and internal corners.

For sheathing a wooden house with siding, it makes no sense to buy full set additional elements. In choosing their type and quantity, they are guided by architectural and design features building. But start and finish bars are always required, no matter what. A set of panels begins with the installation of the starting bar and is completed with the installation of the finishing one.

Siding prices

The appearance of the cladding of the house depends on how well the crate is built. A frame assembled in accordance with all the rules is able to hide any flaws and irregularities in the walls and gables of the building. The crate is the base to which the canvases of the finishing material are attached.

When installing metal and vinyl lamellas, two types of frames are used:

from wooden blocks;
from a metal profile.

Any of them is suitable for mounting facing material on wooden walls. A properly installed frame allows you to lay any of the modern heat insulators on the walls. The crate also provides the ventilation gap required to eliminate excess moisture.

Installation of the frame is not needed if the walls of the wooden house are perfectly even. On such a surface, you can safely mount siding without using the structure of additional supports.

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Rules for mounting a metal frame

For the device of this type of crate, a metal profile is required, which is used for the device drywall walls, ceilings and partitions. These are PN 28x27 and PP 60x27. These planks will be attached to the wall of the house with the help of special suspensions, which the craftsmen call "pawns".

If it is necessary to mount a two-tier metal frame, assuming a protrusion under the roof or in the upper part of the wall, special “crab” fasteners are used to connect the metal strips. They are designed for strong docking between vertical and horizontal strips. As fasteners, self-tapping screws SMM 3.5x51 are used, which experts call "seeds".

Stages of installation of a metal crate

Step 1: drawing up a scheme of the crate

At this stage of work, it is necessary to decide which step between the racks of the crate will be optimal. This distance depends on what material is chosen for wall insulation. If it is mineral wool in rolls, then the step between the racks of the frame should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the canvas. This will allow you to lay the insulation in the openings between the racks of the crate so that there are no gaps between its canvases.

Step 2: Markup

Markings corresponding to the scheme are applied to the wall. Use a marker.

Step 3: Hanger Mounting

Using wood screws and a screwdriver, hangers are attached to the wooden wall of the house. These metal strips are placed horizontally, aligning the marking point with the center of the wide slot in the middle of the suspension. On the initial stage installation of siding, the perforated "legs" are not bent, but left pressed against the wall.

Step 4: installing the corner posts of the batten

Corner posts consist of two planks of profile PP 60/27 connected at a right angle. They will serve as the basis for installing the external and internal corners of the siding. When installing the corner posts, it is important not to make a mistake, and set the corner exactly as needed: for external corners, the protrusion is outward, for the internal corners, the protrusion is inward.

Step 5: installation of intermediate vertical racks of the crate

It is important that all vertical supports of the frame are located in the same plane. If a thread is pulled between the corner posts, the installation of the intermediate posts will be easier and faster. The lower and upper ends of the profile PP 60/27 are inserted into the guides PN 28/27 and fixed with self-tapping screws. Thus, the frame acquires the required rigidity.

Step 7: Mounting the frame for windows and doors

The metal frame around the window and door openings should be a solid frame of the correct geometric shape, exactly following the contours of the opening. It should be noted that slopes and low tide should have a slight slope from the window installed in the house. Therefore, the frame is mounted in such a way that its vertical and horizontal strips are indented 1-2 cm from the window lines. The same requirements are set for doorways.

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Screwdrivers

Rules for mounting a wooden frame

Having figured out how to make a metal frame for siding, it is easy to mount a wooden crate. It is set according to the same rules. But other materials and tools will be required:

wood screws;
hacksaw;
bars with a section of 3x4, 4x4 or 4x5 cm.

Lumber is necessarily treated with an antiseptic solution that prevents premature destruction of wood. It is recommended to apply a double or triple layer of this composition. The bars should be well dried and even. A planer is used to eliminate flaws.

The device of a wooden crate for siding does not provide for the installation of guides. The ends of the vertical racks are interconnected by similar wooden blocks.

Features of mounting the frame for sheathing the plinth with siding

Siding is suitable not only for facing walls and gables. It is also suitable for covering the foundation. Since the plinth is more often exposed to mechanical stress than walls and gables, it is recommended to mount a metal crate. It should be noted that each basement siding panel must be installed on 4 vertical posts. The distance between them must be the same.

Installation of siding on the crate

During the installation of the panels, their trimming will inevitably be required. Sawing is performed using a grinder and a circle for metal with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. It is suitable for both metal and vinyl siding. For cutting panels and additional elements, you can use scissors for metal.

Step 1: Installing the Starter Bar

The quality of all further work will depend on how correctly the starting bar is set. Therefore, this process must be taken with all responsibility. The starting profile must be installed strictly horizontally along the entire length of the wall. In order to fulfill this condition, self-tapping screws are screwed in at the bottom of the corner posts of the crate so that the thread stretched between them is located strictly horizontally. It will serve as a guide when installing the starting profile.

It is important that when building up between the strips, there is a gap of 0.8-10 mm wide.

Video - Installing the starting bar

Video - How to insert siding into the homepage, installation using the example of Docke siding (Docke)

Step 2: installing the corner profile

The lower border of the profile should be 0.5-1 cm below the starting bar. When building up the corner profile, the side perforation is trimmed. The optimal overlap of the lower part on the upper one is 2.5 cm. There should be a gap of 8-9 mm between the perforations of the upper and lower corner profile.

If during work it turned out that the length of the corner profile is not enough to sheathe the corner, you should not rush to the store. You can use existing starter strips. They need to be connected to each other so that the desired angle is obtained: internal or external.

Step 3: decorating window openings

If the opening is in the same plane with the facade, two vertical and two horizontal near-window profiles are installed.

If window openings are recessed into the facade, installation of slopes and low tide will be required. It is important to correctly connect the near-window strips to each other so that water does not get inside the facing layer.

Step 4: Mounting the first panel

Siding panels are simply inserted into the H-profile with a gap of 5-6 mm

When fastening the siding and any of the additional elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm, without screwing the self-tapping screw tightly into the frame. Otherwise, the skin will be deformed under the influence of compression-expansion forces.

The end face of the first panel is brought into the corner profile and the locking connection of the starting bar. After that, proceed to attach the siding to the crate. When building up the panel, cut off 4-5 cm of perforation.

Step 5: Panel Set

During the installation of the panels, the correct position of the panels must be regularly checked using a bubble level at least 80 cm long.

Step 6: Mounting the Finishing Plank

When you reach the top of the wall, you will find that there is not enough space to mount the entire panel. In this case, measure the distance from the locking of the last installed panel to the top of the wall. Then they take a new panel, apply the appropriate markings on it with a pencil and cut off the excess. Fasten the siding to the crate and install a finishing bar on top of it.

Under the window, everything is about the same - the topmost bar is cut to size and simply snaps onto the bottom lock of the siding

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Aluminum ladder

How to properly and economically install window adjoining

To form slopes, a plastic or metal L-shaped bar (L-profile) is used. Measure the length and width of the window block and cut the strips for the top, bottom and sides of the window.

In order to compensate for the difference between the thickness of the manufacturer's window strip and the width of the L-profile, two strips of the same length will be required for each side of the window. One will be inserted into the other, which will simultaneously strengthen the profile.

Take one bar and attach it to the top of the installed window unit. Use self-tapping screws SMM 3.5 / 51. Similarly, the L-profile is fixed around the entire perimeter of the window.

In order to form the protrusion necessary for installing the near-window strip, the same, similar length is inserted into the profile fixed on the window. But first apply super glue on it. It is important not to forget that the glued profile must be dry and clean. The L-profile is inserted towards the one fixed on the window so that the short shelf is connected to the long one.

At the lower corner points of the window towards the crate, it is necessary to strengthen similar double strips of such a length that it corresponds to the width of the slope required in this case. These double short slats must be on the previously installed metal trough.

Measure the desired length of the near-window strip and cut it with scissors for metal. On each side of the plank, you need to make a saw cut at an angle of 45 °, which will allow you to form a beautiful slope. Before attaching the strip, cut off the excess perforated abutment.

The near-window plank is inserted into the L-profile so that its rectangular perforated protrusion closely adjoins the adjacent rack of the crate. Perform fastening.

Self-tapping screws, with which the siding is attached, must be screwed strictly into the center of the factory holes. But the last top skin panel can be fastened directly through vinyl or metal.

The finished result - the pediment is sheathed, spotlights are installed

Video - Step-by-step installation of factory window connections

Video - How to cut a near-window profile

Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame

Video - How the siding ends at the top

Everything modern materials, which are intended for finishing the facades of houses, should not only protect its walls from ultraviolet radiation, snow and rain, but also highlight the house with various colors, interesting details and outfit. Proper installation of siding with your own hands will allow you to protect and decorate your home, while endowing it with important performance characteristics.

Wall surface preparation

Vinyl will look great on almost any facade. Working with it is quite easy, the main thing is to carefully study all the available technical documentation.

First you need to carefully prepare the surface of the walls:

If you have wooden walls, then you need to replace all the rotten boards and nail all the lagging behind.
If the walls are plastered, then you need to remove the old plaster from those places where it has peeled off or is not securely attached to the wall.
Next, remove the existing moldings from the walls, drainpipes and lamp fixtures.
It is also desirable to remove all protruding ebbs and window sills.

At the next stage, it is necessary to make a crate of wooden slats or metal rails on the surface of all walls.

For arranging a wooden crate, you can use bars of different sections made from coniferous wood. And for a metal crate, a profile designed for the installation of drywall should be used. Such a profile is made of rolled galvanized steel by stamping.

When installing siding horizontally, battens must be installed vertically every 40 cm. In addition, you need to fix metal rails or battens around doors and windows, at the top and bottom of the siding area and at all corners.

If you plan to install the siding vertically, then the crate should be done horizontally, and everything else is done in the same way as with the vertical crate.

To the wall, the frame of the crate must be fixed as follows:

Each siding panel must be supported by at least two bars located along its edges.
On the front surface of the bars, the edge of each siding panel must lie completely.
The battens must be attached to the wall very securely.
The front parts of the bars, to which the siding panels will adjoin, must be in the same plane, without distortions.
The plane formed by the bars of the crate must be strictly vertical.

During the installation of the crate, you need to be careful, trying to mark as carefully as possible and then check vertical plane with the help of long rules-levels and plumb lines. If you do not do this, then you may end up with an uneven, wavy cladding of the facade.

In the event that you want additionally, then you can fill the space between the crate bars with insulation, but the thickness of the insulation layer should be equal to the thickness of the crate bars. Therefore, when choosing the thickness of the bars, you need to think in advance about the insulation that you are going to use. This is very important for creating a flat surface.

As a heater for vinyl siding, you can use mineral wool in hard-type rolls or slabs. It is not recommended to use loose insulation, as it can be deformed during operation.

Warming should be carried out in the following sequence:

First you need to install insulation boards between the bars of the crate.
Then, a diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer should be fixed on top of the insulation using special perforated membranes.
You also need to provide a small gap for ventilation by stuffing bars with a section of 4x2 cm.

Do-it-yourself installation of siding is necessary in compliance with some rules:

with temperature changes, vinyl siding can change its size, so during installation it is necessary to leave a small (7 - 10 mm) gap between the panels;
when installing siding, do not forget that the panel must move freely within the perforations;
do not nail the nails too tightly, it is advisable to leave a small (0.9 mm) gap between the surface of the panel and the nail head;
to fasten siding panels, you must start from the center and then move to the edges;
fasteners must be located in the center of the perforation;
it is necessary to ensure that the fasteners are perpendicular to the plane of the wall.

Panel cutting

In order to cut planks and panels of vinyl siding, you can use the following tools:

Electric saw with an abrasive wheel.
Electric jigsaw.
Metal scissors.
Knife cutter.

The panel should be cut from the top edge, on which the perforations are located. You need to work very carefully, trying to avoid chips on the surface of the panel.

first you need to determine where the lowest level is on the wall and hammer a temporary nail a little higher than this point;
then at the corners of the house at the same level, you also need to hammer in nails. Then, with the help of a paint lace and blue or chalk, it is necessary to beat off a straight line between the nails on the wall;
these actions must be done on all the walls of the house;
and at the end, you should set the starting bar so that its upper edge is on the previously broken line, and nail it to the bars.

Corner planks

At the joints of the walls, it is necessary to establish external and internal corners. These parts should be fastened by hammering nails into the upper holes of the panels. Next, the nails should be hammered in the center of the holes at a distance of 30-40 cm. If the length of the angle is not enough, then they can be joined.

This is done in the following way:

First you need to cut off the side parts from the top edge (about 2.5 cm), while not touching the central part.
next corner detail it is necessary to impose on the previous one with a small (0.5 cm) gap so that during thermal expansion the corner can breathe.

The edging of window and door openings can be done using rail J in the following sequence:

First you need to install the side rails exactly along the window opening.
Then you need to cut and bend the eyelet in the bottom of the window (upper) rail, and then bend it down.
This must be done on each corner of the window.

This plank is used to connect siding panels. It is installed in the same way as the corner elements.

The finishing strip is mounted flush with the cornice at the very top of the wall. Subsequently, the edge of the last panel will snap into the groove of the finish bar.

Panel mounting

After the installation of all the strips, connecting and corner, you can proceed with the installation of the siding panels themselves. According to the installation instructions, work should begin from the rear of the building, and then move from there to the facade.

The lower edge of the first panel must be inserted into the starting rail, and then its upper edge must be nailed to the wall. Further, the sheathing is made by joining the parts with an overlap (about 2.5 cm). Be sure to remember that the very last nail was located on the panel 10 cm from its edge.

Conclusion

Vinyl siding is very versatile and can be used to finish any facade, as it can give a building a special chic and decorate old walls.

Siding can be used even in frame housing construction, where the walls are a kind of layered cake, in which the inside is sheathed with some kind of panels, the outside with siding, and insulation is used as a filling.

Currently such frame houses gain great popularity, as they are built very quickly and are at the same time very warm (meter brickwork replace only 15 cm of insulation).

Installation of vinyl siding will not cause difficulties, and its price is quite democratic. During installation, siding panels are easily snapped into place and then fastened with self-tapping screws, screws and nails, so do-it-yourself siding installation resembles a game of constructor. But the result of such a finish will delight the owners of the house for many years.

Currently, metal siding is a fairly popular way of decorating and insulating facades. The advantages of this material include the fact that it allows you to work very quickly and without loss of quality, even with large areas.

There are more and more people who want to decorate the facade of their house with metal siding, and this despite the rather high cost of both the material itself and its installation.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of metal siding are:

After finishing the house with metal siding, its facade is able to withstand almost any temperature. The insulation layer will work in the temperature range from +50 to -50 degrees. And even if there are sudden temperature changes, the facade will not receive any deformation of the structure or any cracks.
Most manufacturers of metal siding give a guarantee that their products will last about 50 years. But in order for metal siding to serve without problems for so many years, two conditions must be met - you should purchase high quality siding and finish the house strictly according to technology.
Siding panels do not rust or burn.
This material has a sufficiently durable surface, so even if in the future it will be subjected to random mechanical stress from time to time, this will not lead to scratches.
Due to the presence of such a facade system, the walls of the house and their insulation layer can breathe, which helps prevent the accumulation of condensate and the process of decay, and this significantly prolongs life cycle building.
In addition, if you finish the walls with metal siding, you do not have to periodically paint it, because high-quality siding will not fade in the sun and will not lose its external gloss. If it gets dirty, it can be very easily cleaned with plain water.
Thanks to the assembly technology, all fasteners are hidden under the panels, which gives the facade a more attractive look.
And most importantly, this material is environmentally friendly.

Among the shortcomings, only a couple of points can be noted:

Many manufacturers have a siding installation technology such that if one element of the facade breaks down, you will have to dismantle almost the entire wall to replace it.
But if you have experience, it is useless to carry out such large-scale work, everything can be done pretty quickly.

For example, you can use the usual brick house, which must be independently sheathed with siding and insulated. In order for the work to be performed at the proper level and for you to be comfortable working, you must prepare in advance all the tools that you may need during the installation process.

For self-assembly of metal siding, you will need the following materials and tools:

the siding panels themselves;
guide profile;
steam or hydrobarrier (there is no difference between them);
mineral wool;
timber or profile for the frame;
fasteners for an umbrella for insulation, self-tapping screws for metal and quick installation;
puncher, screwdriver and grinder;
scaffolding;
scissors for metal, a plumb line and a square;
good screwdrivers and a hammer;
rule with level, tape measure and pencil.

After you prepare all the materials listed above, you can get to work.

First step. Frame assembly

The profile must be fixed vertically to the wall, and for this you will need to outline several marking lines.

Using a tape measure and a pencil, it is necessary to mark several points horizontally in the upper part of the wall (every 50-70 cm). Then you need to apply a plumb line to each point and mark the lowest point. After that, connect the top and bottom points to get vertical lines. To make things go faster, you can use not a pencil, but a special upholstery cord with paint.
Next, you need to fix the profile on the U-shaped fasteners, which must be screwed to the wall, along each vertical line.
U-shaped fasteners should be located vertically from each other at a distance of about half a meter, for which points should be noted in advance. In order to increase the speed of installation, the points can be marked only on the extreme verticals, and then use the same upholstery cord.
When all points are marked, you can start drilling, and then fixing the U-shaped fasteners using quick installation.
After that, you need to attach a profile or beam to the wall, inserting it into the U-shaped fasteners, and fasten them together. This is best done with a screwdriver and special screws, using a stretched thread as a beacon to get a smooth surface.
You can also use a rule attached to two profiles for alignment. All profiles that are between them should be fixed according to the rule.

When all the described work is completed, your frame will be ready.

Second phase. Installation of the ventilation layer and insulation

It is best to use good mineral wool as a heater, and not polystyrene foam, since the wool will not block the exit from the surface of the condensate wall and allow the wall to breathe.

Sold in both mats and rolls. Mat in mats has a higher cost, but it is more convenient to work with it.

Its installation should be done as follows:

first it must be cut into strips of the required width;
then you should lay cotton wool between the profiles;
after that, using a puncher and a long drill, you need to make holes for the dowels;
then you need to insert umbrellas into the holes and nail them.

After all the insulation is fixed, it will be necessary to carefully check whether there is free space between the insulation. If everything is in order, then you can proceed with the installation of a vapor barrier film:

First you need to roll out the roll and cut off the necessary piece of film from it, which should be applied horizontally to the bottom of the wall and screwed at the points of contact with the profile. Screws with a wide head are best suited for fastening the film, since thanks to them the film will not come off.
If you used timber for the crate, it will be much easier for you to fix the film, because you don’t have to screw it, but you can fix it with a stapler.
It is necessary to start fastening the film from the bottom up so that the next strip lies on the previous one with an overlap. Thanks to this, there will be no gaps, and even if water gets on the panels, the insulation will be securely covered from it.
For greater reliability, you can glue all the seams with special adhesive tape, since in this case you can prevent snow from getting in even with strong winds. But if you have purchased high-quality siding, then it will be very difficult for snow to get under the facade anyway.
After fixing the entire film, it is recommended to screw small wooden planks to the profile over the hydro-barrier, whose thickness can be about 2 cm. This will allow you to organize a ventilation space between the siding and the film.

This is the easiest stage, since the most time-consuming steps (insulation and leveling) are left behind.

First you need to attach the guide strips to the walls with a screwdriver, into which the panels will then be inserted.
The assembly of siding is most often done from the bottom up. This is done so that there are no gaps between the panels due to overlap. But there are some brands of siding that have a universal edge. Such siding is indifferent to the order of assembly.
After the panel is inserted, you need to screw it at all points to the profile, and only then insert the next one. In the same sequence, you need to fasten all the panels.
You may have difficulty with last panel, because sometimes it has to be made very narrow with the help of a grinder, and then inserted into the upper guide.

Conclusion

As can be seen from the above, do-it-yourself metal siding installation is not too complicated, so if you want and carefully perform all the work, you will get an excellent result.

Is it possible to install basement siding with your own hands? Manufacturers are constantly improving this finishing material, so it is quite possible to install it yourself. To do this, it is only necessary to take into account some features of this material and adhere to a certain sequence when performing work.

Before starting the installation of basement siding, it is necessary to prepare the surface of all walls, mount the supporting frame, as well as a layer of hydro and thermal insulation, if necessary.

Preparing the foundation, plinth and walls

First you need to look at how even the walls of the basement are, since when installing siding, the allowable difference in unevenness between the walls and the basement should not exceed two centimeters. If there are large irregularities, they will need to be leveled in advance with a cement mortar.

The base on which the basement siding will be installed must be clean and dry. It is very important that the moisture content of the foundation and basement does not exceed four percent at a depth of three centimeters. This is very important for the installation of almost any hinged facades, since high humidity may adversely affect the quality of the facing material, that is, in the future, the siding may be deformed under the influence of moisture. All your efforts will be in vain and you will have to start all over again.

In addition, it is desirable to treat the base with an antiseptic primer, which is able to penetrate deeply and prevent the formation of fungal and mold infections.

Frame installation

Self-assembly of basement siding must be carried out on a supporting crate, which must be well fixed to the wall.

It is best to make the frame of the crate from a galvanized metal profile, which can be purchased at any hardware store along with the siding itself. According to the installation instructions for basement siding, the frame must be strictly vertical. It is for this reason that it is necessary to begin installation by aligning the upper and lower carrier profiles with the water level.

After that, you can install the corner bearing profiles, which must also be aligned with a level or plumb.

Of course, you can make a frame from wood, but for this purpose you need to use coniferous wood, since it is the least susceptible to rotting processes. According to the instructions, the frame should be made of dry wood, which was previously treated with some kind of antiseptic, while its moisture content should not be more than 20%.

The standard step of the crate during the installation of basement siding should be 46 centimeters, which is due to the size of the facing material panel.

If the building has absolutely flat walls, then basement siding can be mounted on them without crates. The main thing is not to forget to leave ventilation gaps between the material and the wall so that the walls and foundation do not absorb moisture.

But anyway the best option is a frame that is able to provide the necessary ventilation between the wall and the panels. In addition, with the help of the frame, it will be possible to waterproof and insulate the basement of the house and the foundation.

For fastening the frame, it is best to use galvanized nails with a hidden hat, whose length is at least three centimeters. During the installation of the frame, it is imperative to make a strapping around the door and window openings.

You should also consider the location of drains and other engineering structures:

outlet air-conditioned basement systems;
location of ventilation holes;
wiring location.

Thermal insulation and waterproofing

If the area is close enough ground water or the site is located in the northern regions, it is recommended to install an additional layer of heat-insulating and waterproofing material before starting the installation of the basement siding.

Most often, a special polyethylene film is used as a waterproofing, but in addition to the film, it is possible to waterproof the foundation and basement using a special mastic, which is based on artificial and natural water-repellent resins.

The following materials can be used for the thermal insulation layer:

natural insulation made of jute and linen;
natural damask insulation;
mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene, which is the most common insulation for the foundation and basement.

Basement siding installation

Before starting the installation, you need to carefully study the video and photographic materials that are presented on the Internet, where the whole process is described step by step. There are several varieties of basement siding and there are some nuances when installing each. Most often, complete with the siding itself, instructions for its installation are attached.

The main requirements that apply to the installation of basement siding with your own hands, compliance with which will achieve a good result:

it is necessary to store all panels on the edge, in the direction of the arrows drawn on the wrong side;
if the installation work will be carried out in cold weather, then it is necessary to keep the material for about ten hours in a warm room so that the panel has time to acquire flexibility during this time;
installation of panels must begin from the bottom row. Sometimes installation can also begin with the upper supporting profile, but this only applies to basement siding, which is fastened using the “pin-groove” method;
at self installation siding is best to start installation on the left side of the building, gradually shifting to the right. But there are materials that need to be mounted on the right. Clarify given parameter can be in the instructions;
it is impossible to fasten the panels to the frame rigidly, it is necessary to leave a small gap between the panel and the fastening cap, which is necessary so that the fasteners do not damage the siding during thermal expansion;
siding panels expand when heated, so the gap between the panels in cold weather should be approximately 10 mm, and in warm weather - from 6 to 9 mm;
it is necessary to drive the fixing nails into the middle of the mounting hole, otherwise the siding may burst when heated;
it is necessary to make an independent fastening of the basement siding only with the help of galvanized fasteners, since subsequently the fasteners under the influence of moisture can become rusty, which will negatively affect appearance facade.

Having detailed information and carefully studying all the instructions, you can easily finish your house with siding.

Materials for self-finishing There are many facades. However, do-it-yourself sheathing of a house with siding stands out among them for its low cost and extreme ease of installation. Most often, home craftsmen choose vinyl for such a cladding of their cottage. facade panels, the installation technology of which we will consider in detail in this article.

Accessories and getting started

To properly sheathe a house with siding from the street, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most of the complaints about self-stuffed PVC cladding then arise precisely because of non-compliance with the banal rules for its installation.

There are several types of vinyl sheathing planks:

Types of components

Initial - starting rail, the first lowest element;

The main panel is the basic segment of the house siding;

Finishing - the extreme upper strip;

Connecting (docking) - H-profile for splicing short panels;

Hinged - ebb, protecting the windows and the basement of the house from precipitation;

Near-window (wide J-profile) - trim for decorating slopes;

Corner (outer and inner) - for closing the ends of siding panels in corner joints;

Soffit - a ceiling panel for sewing cornices and gables of houses;

J-trim is a narrow universal J-profile.

The variety of plank shapes only simplifies self-plating. For each corner and ledge of the house there is a type-setting element, you just need to correctly calculate their required number.

Calculation of material for sheathing and the necessary tools

For calculation Supplies it is required to calculate the area of the facade sheathed with siding, and then divide it by the quadrature of the selected panels. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sizes of windows with doors that the house has, removing them from the calculations. You also need to take a margin of 10% for fitting, so that everything can be finished without problems and restrictions.

To decorate a house with siding, you will need the following set of tools:

Level and plumb;

Ladder;

Screwdriver;

Scissors and hacksaw for metal.

If the walls of the cottage are built of concrete or brick, then you will need a drill to drill holes for the dowels of the crate. It will not interfere with the siding of self-plating the house and the grinder. It will facilitate and speed up the cutting of panels.

Home insulation and waterproofing

Before proceeding with the sheathing of the house, it is necessary to clean the walls and seal the cracks in them. under siding old paint and plaster will not be visible, but it is better to get rid of them. If the house is made of wood or aerated concrete blocks, then a vapor-permeable waterproofing film must be fixed to it under the sheathing.

The insulation is placed between the guides of the frame, which is stuffed under the considered finishing material for the facade of a private house. Next, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Moreover, everything is done so that an air cushion remains between the membrane and the heat insulator on the walls of the house.

Do-it-yourself siding installation

To attach vinyl panels to the crate, you can take:

Screws (self-tapping screws) with a diameter of 3.5–4 mm

Nails with a stem section of 3 mm and a head of 8 mm

Their consumption when finishing the house with siding is calculated based on the step between these hardware on the slats of 30 cm. wooden lath or the metal profile of the frame must enter at least 20 mm. At the same time, a space of 1 mm should be left between its cap and PVC lining. If this is not done, then the vinyl sheathing of the house will warp and go in waves when the temperature outside changes.

Collection of crates for facing the house with siding

The crate is made vertical or horizontal with a distance between the rails (profiles) of 30-40 cm. These guides must be placed across the main vinyl strips. But the transverse crossbars between them should not be, by definition. It is necessary to sheathe the house with siding with your own hands so that there is space under the panels for natural air circulation.

Additional load-bearing rails are installed around the openings and along the corners of the building to securely fasten the PVC cladding. They are also needed in places where lamps and drains are hung on the walls. It is required to securely fasten not only facade panels for the exterior of the house, but also various decorative elements on them.

House crate

Installing the starting bar

The starting bar is fixed on the walls first. To do this, a rope is pulled around the house on carnations at a height of 3-4 cm from the lower edge of the mounted sheathing. Starting profiles are fastened along the perimeter of the building not end-to-end, but at intervals of 5–6 mm in case of their thermal expansion.

Installation of low tide and starting bar. Ebbs are installed from the corner of the house. The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the tide bar.

When sheathing houses with siding, it is extremely important to correctly and evenly fix the initial bar. It serves as the basis for the entire structure of the external cladding. The clarity of geometric lines and the general appearance of the siding finish of a private house depend on it.

Installation of internal and external corners

Next, external and internal corners are attached, installed at the junctions of two walls. Their lower edge should be located just below the starting bar, already attached to the house. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the uppermost hole for fasteners so that the corner hangs on it.

External and internal corners are set so that the bottom edge is 4-6 mm below the starting profile, and top part 1-3 mm below the soffit or cornice

Then the corner is aligned strictly vertically. The remaining self-tapping screws down the bar in increments of 30 cm are already screwed in the middle of the holes and not all the way. This is the only way PVC sheathing of the house will be able to "breathe" and not be deformed.

The extension of the corner elements is overlapped. At the top bar from the bottom, the inner side edges are trimmed by 25 mm. It starts at the bottom corner by 20 mm, which leaves a gap of 5 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of slats on door and window openings

The next stage is the lining of the openings of the house under the windows and doors with a casing. In order for everything to turn out beautifully in the end, you will have to work hard here. In the upper horizontal J-profiles, you will have to make cuts in the sides with a bend of the cut-off part of the panel, and in the lower ones, make a 45-degree angle cut.

Cutting the window profile

Vertical strips are cut at an angle from above, and cut out from below with a similar bend in the side. The purpose of all these manipulations is not just to sheathe the house beautifully with siding, but to join the platbands so that no water can seep into the joints anywhere.

Installing the main panels

With the main slats, everything is much simpler. The first of them only needs to be inserted into the starting profile, and then fixed on the crate. The rest will follow one after the other. It is the ease of installation of the main panels that allows you to decorate the house with do-it-yourself siding in just a day.

In case of a lack of siding length, we join several planks through the H-profile. To do this, do not forget to install and secure the connecting H-profile in advance. The distances below and above are the same as for the outer or inner corner.

Installation starts from the starting profile and ends with the finishing profile or molding

Do not forget to make "hooks" at the top of the panel

A finishing bar is attached to the upper edge of the windboard on similar “hooks” with the molding

Soffits are installed between molding and J-bevel

The strips should be fixed from the middle to the edges, placing the screws strictly in the middle of the holes on the edge. The final touch of the vinyl cladding of houses is the installation of the finishing panel with the insertion of the topmost main PVC rail into it.

What to consider in order to properly sheathe a house with siding

The technology of work is such that sheathing of houses can be done year-round. But at sub-zero temperatures, the siding should be taken outside in advance so that the material acclimatizes.

If the house is old, then problems with cladding with vinyl panels should not arise. But the new building must be allowed to settle completely, otherwise the decor of the facade will be deformed. No gaps will help in this situation.

Numerous photos of houses sheathed with siding are pleasing to the eye. So that when self-assembly everything turned out just as well, it is extremely important to follow the installation instructions and leave gaps where necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated under the sun.

Table of temperature gaps

When installing vinyl siding, consider the air temperature shown in the table below. For example, if you are installing at a temperature of +10 degrees, then the main bar 3.6 m long can lengthen by 8 mm in warmer weather, and shrink by 12 mm in colder weather.