Do-it-yourself mansard roof - drawings. Do-it-yourself attic - we will give ourselves additional square meters of living space! How to build an attic

The fact that the attic is, in principle, a converted attic, is understood by absolutely everyone. But this re-equipment has its own nuances, design solutions, as well as work with thermal insulation and roofing. In fact, do-it-yourself attic construction in country house almost no different from the construction of any other roof. In any case, let's take a closer look at this process.

So, to build an attic, you need to purchase:

wooden beams, the section of which is 50x180 centimeters for the rafters (as for the length, everything will depend on the planned size of the building and what the slope of the slope will be);
wooden boards for crates;
material to carry out the sheathing of the end walls, for example, wall panels;
roofing fasteners: nails, self-tapping screws, metal corners, metal profiles to further strengthen individual structural elements;
thermal insulation material;
vapor barrier material;
waterproofing material;
roofing material;
material for interior decoration attic.

So, the first step will be the task of strengthening the floors between the attic and the first floor. This is a mandatory work, since the load that will be carried out on the floor will increase significantly.

As soon as the ceiling is strengthened, you need to deal with the truss system. Do not forget that constant quality control of the connection of individual elements is necessary.

In the event that you will use a sloping roof, first of all, you will need to install the support beams and end walls, only after this is done, you can start assembling the frame truss system. The fastening of individual frame elements is carried out using a groove-protrusion connection; metal plates are used to increase strength.

Do not forget that each wooden element needs pre-treatment with a special compound that will protect the wood from insects and moisture. You will also need treatment with fire retardants, which slow down the process of burning wood.

When the truss structure is installed, it is necessary to nail the crate. To do this, you can use both ordinary boards and sheets of plywood or chipboard. It all depends on what kind of roofing materials you have. Also further it is necessary to deal with the bevels of the walls and internal partitions in the attic room.

Making an Insulation Pie

Another work that should not be forgotten is the creation of a layer of insulation. First of all, for this you need to lay a vapor barrier on the inside of the rafters and fix it with brackets.

This is followed by installation thermal insulation material, which must be laid close to the rafters, leaving no gaps. On top of the thermal insulation, a step of 50 cm, a crate is stuffed - it is she who holds all the thermal insulation on herself.

The waterproofing layer is laid on the outside of the rafters, creating protection against accidental moisture penetration. The final stage is the laying of the roof on the waterproofing layer.

A house with an attic is not only an additional living space, but also a respectable view of the entire building. Even if the room under the roof is made unheated and is used only in the summer, it still creates a powerful "air cushion" that helps to retain heat inside the entire capital building.

And about, then - read on our portal.

Attic project

When drawing up a scheme for building an attic, it is best to do this in different projections in order to see and understand the placement of all elements of the truss system. It is very important to correctly calculate the height of the roof ridge, since the size of the area under it will directly depend on it.

When drawing up a scheme-project for the construction of a mansard roof, you need to calculate the height of the ridge, the ceiling and the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

The minimum height from the floor to the ridge should be 2.5-2.7 m, if this distance is less, then the room is not an attic, it can only be called an attic. This parameter is set by the norms of SNIP.

In order for all elements to be drawn accurately and have the desired location in the overall system, it is necessary to start from a figure with right angles, that is, a rectangle or square - a section of the created attic room. Based on the sides (height and width of the future room), it will be almost impossible to make a mistake with the angles at which roof slopes are located, with the location of the ridge, rafters and all retaining elements. Determining these parameters, they must immediately be entered into the drawing.

First you need to find the middle of the width of the front wall. Starting from this point, the parameters of the height of the ridge, the future ceiling of the attic, the location of the rack-walls and the size of the cornice overhang are determined.

Due to the fact that each of the structures has a certain number of connecting nodes that have different configurations, it would be nice to draw each of these ligaments separately in order to understand their features of conjugation among themselves of all elements connecting at this point.

Any truss system consists of basic elements and additional ones, which may not be in every design. The main components of the mansard roof are.

Floor beams, which are the basis for the rest of the elements of the truss system. They are laid on the main walls of the building.
Rafter leg, straight in a gable roof system or consisting of two sections - in a broken pattern. In this case, the upper rafter is called the ridge rafter, as it forms the highest point of the roof - and the rafters that form the walls of the attic are called side rafters.
A ridge board or beam is an indispensable element for a gable roof, but is not always used when constructing a broken roof model.
Mauerlat - a powerful bar, fixed to the main side walls of the building. Rafter legs are installed on this element.
Racks are supporting elements necessary to strengthen a gable and broken structure. In the latter case, a ridge and side rafters are attached to it, and in the first case, the stand is a reliable support for a long rafter. In addition, the racks serve as a frame for insulation and sheathing of the attic walls.
Diagonal braces or bevels additionally hold the posts or stringers and rafters together, making the structure more durable.
Attic floor beams are used in all attic options - they connect the racks, and they are also the frame for the ceiling device.
Interrafter runs are installed in a broken form of the roof for structural rigidity.

To be sure that the prepared project is developed correctly, you need to show it to a specialist. Only he can determine whether the attic parameters are correctly selected for the width and length of the walls of the building.

Video: professional mansard roof calculation using special software

Parameters of materials for the construction of a mansard roof

If the graphic project is ready, then, starting from the dimensions marked on it, you can calculate the amount of materials needed to build a mansard roof. Materials must be selected according to their characteristics, which must meet the requirements of fire and environmental safety. For wood, it is necessary to provide special treatment with fire retardants, which will reduce the combustibility of the material. So, for the construction you will need:

Boards for rafter legs. Their cross section is selected according to the results of special calculations - this will be discussed in more detail below.
A beam having a cross section of 100 × 150 or 150 × 200 mm - for floor beams, depending on the selected truss system and the width between the bearing walls, as well as for girders, diagonal legs or valleys - if they are provided for by the design.
Beam with a section of 100 × 150 mm or 150 × 150 mm for laying Mauerlat.
For racks, a beam of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm is usually used.
Unedged board for subflooring and some fasteners.
Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm - for fastening together some parts.
Nails, bolts, staples of various sizes, corners of various configurations and other fasteners.
Metal sheet with a thickness of at least 1 mm - for cutting overlays.
Lumber for battens and counter battens for roofing material– depending on the chosen type of roof.
- for thermal insulation of the roof.
Waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes.
Roofing material and fasteners for it.

What section are required rafters

Rafters are roofing elements that will perceive the main external loads, therefore, the requirements for their cross section are very special.

The size of the required lumber will depend on many parameters - on the step between the rafter legs, on the length of these legs between the support points, on the snow and wind load that falls on them.

The geometric parameters of the design of the truss system are easy to determine in the drawing. But with the rest of the parameters - you will have to refer to the reference material and carry out some calculations.

Snow load is not the same for different regions of our country. The figure below shows a map on which the entire territory of Russia is divided into zones according to the intensity of the snow load.

There are eight such zones in total (the last, eighth, is more likely to be extreme, and it can not be considered for the construction of a mansard roof).

Now you can accurately determine the snow load, which will depend on the angle of the roof slope. For this, there is the following formula:

S = Sg × μ

Sg- tabular value - see the map and the table attached to it

μ — correction factor depending on the steepness of the roof slope.

If the slope angle is less 25° then μ=1.0
With a steepness from 25 to 60 ° - μ=0.7
If the roof is steeper than 60 °, then it is considered that the snow does not linger on it, and the snow load is not taken into account at all.

It is characteristic that if the mansard roof has a broken structure, then for its different sections the load can have different values.

The angle of the roof slope can always be determined either by a protractor - according to the drawing, or by a simple ratio of the height and base of the triangle (usually - half the width of the span):

The wind load also mainly depends on the region of construction of the building and on the characteristics of its environment and roof height.

And again, for the calculation, the initial data on the map and the table attached to it are first determined:

The calculation for a particular building will be carried out according to the formula:

Wp = W × k × c

W- tabular value, depending on the region

k- coefficient taking into account the height of the building and its location (see table)

The following zones are indicated in the table with letters:

zone A - open areas, steppes, forest-steppes, deserts, tundra or forest-tundra, open to the winds of the coast of the seas, large lakes and reservoirs.
zone B - urban areas, wooded areas, areas with frequent obstacles to the wind, relief or artificial, at least 10 meters high.
zone IN- dense urban development with an average height of buildings above 25 meters.

from- coefficient depending on the predominant wind direction (wind rose of the region) and on the angle of inclination of the roof slopes.

With this coefficient, the situation is somewhat more complicated, since the wind can have a double effect on the roof slopes. So, it has a direct, overturning effect directly on the roof slopes. But at small angles, the aerodynamic effect of the wind takes on special significance - it tries to raise the slope plane due to the emerging lifting forces.

In the drawings, diagrams and tables attached to them, the sections of the roof that are subject to maximum wind loads are indicated, and the corresponding coefficients for calculation are indicated.

It is characteristic that at slope angles up to 30 degrees (and this is quite possible in the section of ridge rafters), the coefficients are indicated both with a plus sign and negative, that is, directed upwards. They somewhat extinguish the frontal wind load (this is taken into account in the calculations), and in order to level the effect of lifting forces, it will be necessary to carefully fix the truss system and roofing material in this area using additional connections, for example, using annealed steel wire.

After the wind and snow loads are calculated, they can be summed up, and, taking into account design features created system, determine the cross section of the boards for the rafters.

Please note that the data are given for the most commonly used coniferous material (pine, spruce, cedar or larch). The table shows the maximum length of the rafters between the support points, the cross section of the board depending on the grade of the material, and the step between the rafters.

The value of the total load is indicated in kPa (Kilopascals). It is not difficult to bring this value into more familiar kilograms per square meter. With quite acceptable rounding, you can accept: 1 kPa ≈ 100 kg/m².

The dimensions of the board according to its section are rounded up to standard sizes lumber in a big way.

	rafter section (mm)	Distance between adjacent rafters (mm)
		300	600	900	300	600	900
		1.0 kPa			1.5 kPa
higher	40×89	3.22	2.92	2.55	2.81	2.55	2.23
	40×140	5.06	4.60	4.02	4.42	4.02	3.54
	50×184	6.65	6.05	5.28	5.81	5.28	4.61
	50×235	8.50	7.72	6.74	7.42	6.74	5.89
	50×286	10.34	9.40	8.21	9.03	8.21	7.17
1 or 2	40×89	3.11	2.83	2.47	2.72	2.47	2.16
	40×140	4.90	4.45	3.89	4.28	3.89	3.40
	50×184	6.44	5.85	5.11	5.62	5.11	4.41
	50×235	8.22	7.47	6.50	7.18	6.52	5.39
	50×286	10.00	9.06	7.40	8.74	7.66	6.25
3	40×89	3.06	2.78	2.31	2.67	2.39	1.95
	40×140	4.67	4.04	3.30	3.95	3.42	2.79
	50×184	5.68	4.92	4.02	4.80	4.16	3.40
	50×235	6.95	6.02	4.91	5.87	5.08	4.15
	50×286	8.06	6.98	6.70	6.81	5.90	4.82
total snow and wind load		2.0 kPa			2.5 kPa
higher	40×89	4.02	3.65	3.19	3.73	3.39	2.96
	40×140	5.28	4.80	4.19	4.90	4.45	3.89
	50×184	6.74	6.13	5.35	6.26	5.69	4.97
	50×235	8.21	7.46	6.52	7.62	6.92	5.90
	50×286	2.47	2.24	1.96	2.29	2.08	1.82
1 or 2	40×89	3.89	3.53	3.08	3.61	3.28	2.86
	40×140	5.11	4.64	3.89	4.74	4.31	3.52
	50×184	6.52	5.82	4.75	6.06	5.27	4.30
	50×235	7.80	6.76	5.52	7.06	6.11	4.99
	50×286	2.43	2.11	1.72	2.21	1.91	1.56
3	40×89	3.48	3.01	2.46	3.15	2.73	2.23
	40×140	4.23	3.67	2.99	3.83	3.32	2.71
	50×184	5.18	4.48	3.66	4.68	4.06	3.31
	50×235	6.01	5.20	4.25	5.43	4.71	3.84
	50×286	6.52	5.82	4.75	6.06	5.27	4.30

Instruments

Naturally, during work, one cannot do without tools, the list of which includes:

Electric drill, screwdriver.
Building level and plumb line, tape measure, square.
Axe, chisel, chisel, hammer
Circular saw, jigsaw, hacksaw.
Carpentry knife.

Installation will be accelerated if the tools for work are of high quality, and the work is carried out with competent mentors, with assistants, carefully and in stages.

Installation steps

It is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of work - only under this condition the design will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Mauerlat mount

The installation of any truss system begins with fixing a powerful supporting structure at the end of the side walls of the structure. timber - Mauerlat on which it will be convenient to install rafter legs. Mauerlat is made from a high-quality bar with a cross section of at least 100 × 150 mm. It must be laid on the roofing material waterproofing laid along the upper end of the wall (regardless of the material).

Due to the Mauerlat, the load will be evenly distributed along the walls and transferred to the foundation of the building.

The Mauerlat is fixed to the wall with metal studs, which are pre-embedded in a concrete belt or crown running along the upper edge of the wall, or with anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm. They must go deep into the wall by at least 150 — 170 mm. If the Mauerlat is installed on wooden wall, then the bars are attached to it with the help of wooden dowels.

Installation of the truss structure

Installation of the truss system begins with the installation of floor beams. They can be mounted on the Mauerlat from above if the beams are planned to be taken out of the perimeter of the building and thereby increase the attic area. In this design, the rafter legs are fixed to the floor beams.

Floor beams fixed on top of the Mauerlat (Fig. A)

Otherwise, they may fit into waterproofed walls and fastened with corners or staples to the inner edge of the Mauerlat. This option is used when the rafter legs are planned to be fixed directly to the Mauerlat.

Another option - only rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat

Next, you need to find the middle of the floor beam, since this mark will become a guideline for determining the location of the support posts and the ridge.
Racks should be located at the same distance from the marked middle of the floor beam. In the future, they will begin to determine the location of the walls of the attic room, that is, its width.
Bars for racks should have a cross section equal to the size of the floor beams. Construction sites are attached to the beams with the help of special corners and wooden linings. However, to begin with, they are first baited with nails, then carefully leveled with the help of a building level and a plumb line, and only then they are fixed thoroughly, with the expectation of future loads.

When the first pair of racks is installed, they are fastened together from above with a bar, which is called a puff. This puff is also connected to the racks using special metal corners.

After fixing the puff, you get a U-shaped design. Layered rafters are installed on it on the sides, which are attached to the floor beam with their second end or are laid on the Mauerlat.
A special notch (groove) is cut out on the installed supports for the timber or in the rafters. With its use the rafters are tightly installed on the mauerlat beam, and fastened with metal brackets.

For structural rigidity, struts can be additionally installed from the base of the rack to the middle of the installed side rafter. If this seems not enough, and saving material is not in the foreground, then you can strengthen the overall design with additional racks and contractions (they are indicated in the drawing in Fig. A by translucent lines).
Further, the middle is calculated on the puff - a headstock will be attached to this place, supporting the ridge connection of the upper hanging subsystem of the rafters.
The next step is to install ridge rafters, which can be fastened together with different connections - this can be a metal lining or powerful bolts with metal plates or washers.

After their installation, a headstock is attached to the ridge and the middle of the puff.
Having completed work on one part of the truss system, you need to make all the rest according to the same principle. The distance between adjacent rafters in such a system should be no more than 900 — 950 mm, but the interval of 600 mm will probably still be optimal - this will give both the necessary rigidity and stability of the structure, and will be convenient for insulation using standard mineral wool mats. True, this makes the structure heavier and requires more materials.

First, the side parts of the complete system are installed, and then the intermediate ones. Between themselves, they are connected by runs, which are installed between the upper ends of the racks and act as spacers. Thus, a rigid structure of the attic rafters will be obtained, in which the frame for wall cladding will already be ready.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Mansard roof waterproofing

When the truss system is built, you can proceed to finishing it and their accompanying materials.

The first coating to be fixed immediately on top of the rafters will be waterproofing and windproof film. it is attached to the rafters with staples and a stapler, starting from the eaves. Cloths are overlapped by 150 — 200 mm, and then the joints are glued with waterproof tape.
On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is stuffed onto the rafters, which will more reliably fix the film on the surface and create the necessary ventilation distance between the windproof and roofing material. The counter-lattice is usually made of boards with a width of 100 — 150 mm and 50 thick — 70 mm.

A crate is fixed perpendicular to the counter-lattice, on which the roofing material will then be laid. The step between the rails must be calculated depending on the type and size of the sheet roofing material, taking into account the overlap required for it.
If chosen soft roof, then plywood sheets are most often fixed to the counter-lattice.

Roofing installation

Roofing material is fixed on the prepared crate or plywood. Its installation usually starts from the roof eaves and runs in order, from one of the edges - depending on the type of roof. Roofing sheets are mounted with an overlap. If a metal profile or metal tile is used for coating, then such material is fixed with special self-tapping screws with elastic gaskets. Fasteners are usually matched in color to the roofing material.

The most difficult thing in covering the attic broken roof- this is the transition from layered side rafters to hanging ridge rafters. There may be certain difficulties in the event that ledges are provided on the roof for roofing over balconies or windows.

In addition, if a chimney pipe enters the roof, it requires a separate opening inside the rafter system and the insulation layer, and on the roof, a reliable waterproofing device around the pipe.

How and what is better to cover the roof, you can find out in detail on our portal, there is a whole section in which you can find answers to many questions, including recommendations for reliable insulation of the attic room.

Prices for popular types of corrugated board

Decking

Video: a detailed video tutorial on building a mansard roof

It should be noted that the work on the construction of any roof, and even more so complex as an attic, is not only responsible, but also quite dangerous, it requires special, increased security measures. If there is no experience in carrying out such construction processes, then it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals or to perform all actions under the supervision of an experienced craftsman, and with the utmost care and accuracy.

mansard roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living area, while financial investments will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build on your own.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Under the mansard roof, you can equip rooms for housing. The shape of the building may be different, but in most cases the attic is equipped under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to get a significant area of \u200b\u200bliving space, is a broken structure.

The sloping roof is the best option for arranging the attic

Drawings and calculations of a mansard type roof

The first step is to decide on the scheme of the frame. Rafters can be layered or hanging type. Sloped rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters are placed on fillies and Mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary ligaments.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of the attic is the level of the ceilings - it must be above 2.5 m. To ensure such a height, the break line should be placed at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the layer of material for insulation and sheathing of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

The minimum ceiling height of the mansard roof is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S \u003d Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m 2 area, µ is a value that depends on the slope of the roof (1.0 - for flat design with a slope of 25°, 0.7 for a design with a slope of 25–60°).

The parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the relevant SNiP, in the "Rafter systems" section. If the roof has a steep slope, then the snow load can be ignored.

Roof device

The frame structure includes the following details:

mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in a vertical position;
floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
runs - horizontal support parts for rafters;
lathing - slats or plywood sheets that are intended for laying roofing material;
filly - planks that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a mauerlat, racks, girders, floor beams and other elements

The sloping roof differs from the usual design with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes that are placed opposite each other have a special shape: they do not form a straight line, but consist of several slopes that are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The extreme part of the rafters is mainly exposed at an angle of about 60 °. Racks for support, which hold the rafters, form the frame structure of the inner walls. Top part the rafters are mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45 °. This makes it possible to reduce the consumption of materials, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks, which abut against floor planks, girders and crossbars fastening them, form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, struts should be installed between the floor slats and the lower rafter legs.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After mounting the upper elements to fix the truss and prevent sagging of the crossbars, it is necessary to install suspended support elements - headstocks. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with racks using tacks. Parts are fastened with nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of the attic

If it is decided to make such a design yourself, it is important to provide for the use of such materials in the project:

roofing material;
vapor barrier;
waterproofing;
material for insulation.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters. To reduce the amount of heat insulator, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for covering the roof. You need to pay attention not only to the choice of high-quality material for insulation, but also to the creation of an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is equipped by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire protection. You will need to prepare the following elements:

wooden bars with a section of 100x50 mm;
slats 50x150 mm;
unedged boards;
building level;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
steel wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm;
plumb;
roulette;
hacksaw;
axe;
hammer;
sharp knife.

Drafting a project

One of the most important parts of the job is drafting a project. It is very important to analyze the features of the layout of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being erected, as well as to provide for the placement of windows and a balcony.

All structural elements should be marked on the project

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

It is important to decide in advance what height the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the very high point structure must be at least 0.5 m.
It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main elements of the interior.
The attic scheme should be expanded. If you plan to install windows, then they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with the choice of shape, determining the cross section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the size of the rafters, the following parameters must be taken into account:

bias;
roofing material;
climate features in the construction region.

It is also important to provide for the required number of rafters in the project. They can be layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, you should determine the number of parts for fixing. In the figure below you can see some of the data needed for the calculation, however, drafting a project is a complex process. This work is recommended to be entrusted to qualified specialists.

Mauerlat installation

The device of the mansard roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as on the prepared project of the attic. A simple option is a design with two slopes.

The main details of the roof truss system with two slopes are:

linear elements (column, bar system, beam);
planar details (plate, flooring, panel);
spatial elements (arch, shell, three-dimensional detail).

Before performing work, you will need to dry the wood thoroughly. The first step is the marking and installation of the Mauerlat. It is attached to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a bar or a powerful rail. If it is planned to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat is laid on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct division of the load on the walls and the main part of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat, metal studs should be used, which are mounted in a monolithic concrete beam.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal studs

The beam should be carried out in the upper part of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To fix the Mauerlat to the upper crown of the wooden wall, you need to use wooden dowels. auerlat requires high-quality waterproofing of timber timber. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing material or other material with a water-repellent property.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing material

Mauerlat installation is required if it is planned to erect a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with their lower ends against the extended support parts. As supports, it is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be fixed to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The frame of the mansard roof consists of floor beams, rafters, girders and racks

Softwood bars 200x100 mm are often used as a material. Floor slats are placed on top of the Mauerlat with a 30–50 cm indent beyond the surface of the walls or in prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the beam to the Mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even overlap, the strips should be installed in this sequence:

First of all, the extreme details are laid according to the level.
Next, pull the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
The step of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. A distance of 60 cm makes it possible to mount insulation boards without sawing.
To level the beams in height, they can be hemmed. Another option is to use plank linings.
If the beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their extreme parts must be treated with liquid waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material.

Racks must be placed on the extreme slats:

After mounting the racks, crossbars and purlins, you can get reliable design, which will limit interior rooms attic. To increase its strength, in the future it should be fixed with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After that, the upper elements are installed:

The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a rack that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and puff from the end of the roof. The extreme part of the board should run along the center of the roof. On this board you need to align the rafter legs.
Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm rail. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted rail at the required level and to the run on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
You should mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. The device is applied in turn to two sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the layout of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in fixing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
According to the preparation, it is necessary to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on the runs and connected in the upper parts with the help of overhead iron plates or scraps of planks. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the run, the rafters rest against the cuts and are seized iron corners. In order for the parts to stand straight, they are fastened with struts mounted on the bottom of the puffs. All rafters are installed in this way.
Suspension racks are fixed - pieces of planks 150x25 mm. The upper part of the rail is attached at the place where the rafters are fixed, the lower part is attached to the tightening.

Video: mansard roof truss system

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Construction lathing

The crate is needed for:

distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
grounds for fixing roofing material.

The crate can be made in one or two layers, solid or with a vacuum.

The crate can be solid or with a vacuum

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof of slate or metal tiles is being erected, the lathing should be made of slats, which are attached to the bars of the rafter legs with nails. In this case, the installation step of adjacent planks can be 27–30 cm.

A solid crate is used in case of fastening soft material in rolls.

A solid crate is necessary for a soft roof

In this case, you can use moisture-resistant sheets of plywood or particle boards. It is allowed to use pine wood material - edged planks.

It is important to take into account the fact that when constructing such a crate, the material to be laid must follow the contours of the outer base. Therefore, the frame structure must be strong and leveled.

In the process of laying out the material, you should use a cord with which the slats or slabs will lie flat. Parts must be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect it from decay, fungus and dampness. The blanks must be even and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood grades 1 and 2. It should not have knots. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

The sequence of actions for installing the crate:

Mansard roof waterproofing

The material for the roof does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare a quality material that will be environmentally friendly for human health. Quite often, mineral wool or glass wool is used. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to consider that if the roof is made of metal, when the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the device design.

It will not work to insulate the attic without laying waterproofing material, so the process should be considered as a whole. Walkthrough for waterproofing the structure:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect the insulation with modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives a poor result, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen believe that it is not necessary to waterproof the structure with roofing material.

Before proceeding to work, it is necessary to decide on the heat-insulating material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The most commonly used heat insulators are:

glass wool;
mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
foamed glass;
wood shavings;
straw.

It is necessary to choose a material taking into account four parameters.

Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W/m*K or less is optimal.
Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
Fire resistant.
Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after a while. Also, the material can be damaged under the influence of mechanical loads. However, mineral wool has a low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Roof insulation step by step guide:

Laying roofing material and installation of window openings

As an example, the installation of metal tiles will be considered, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the floor base 1:10. For example, if the attic area is 100 m 2, then the glazing should be approximately 10 m 2. When installing windows, it is necessary to take into account such nuances:

Attic decoration

The interior decoration of the attic can be done with wood or drywall sheets. If the latter option is used, then after installation, the sheets must be wallpapered or painted water-based paint. In some cases, the attic is divided into several rooms. This can be done using plasterboard partitions.

If you plan to use the attic often, then the floor and walls can be additionally insulated. This can be done using, for example, mineral wool.

Interesting design options for the attic room

The attic can be made cozy by symmetrically placing sofas on both sides In the attic, you can place a long sofa In the attic, you can arrange a place to relax by hanging a hammock In the attic, you can make not only a living space, but also a bathroom On the attic floor, you can even make a kitchen If on the territory there is no way to place a hammock, then this can be done on the attic floor One of the parts of the attic can be completely glazed The attic can be a great place to create a home library The walls of the attic can be faced with brick In the attic you can equip a full-fledged living room On the attic floor you can equip a relaxation room If the house is located in a beautiful area, then the roof can be made panoramic The bed can be placed facing the window In the attic you can make a bedroom with high ceilings In the attic you can place hanging chair. This will make the roof more comfortable

Video: making a mansard roof

Recently, a mansard-type roof is quite popular among owners of private houses. In order to feel all the positive aspects of living in a building of this type, it is required to pay due attention to the insulation of the building.

The device of the attic in an individual house is a fairly common phenomenon. This method of construction allows you to reduce the cost per square meter and create a rather interesting room in roof space. To perform the device correctly attic floor, it is necessary to study the basic requirements for it and choose the right type of roof and its slope.

What is an attic

According to regulatory documents, the attic floor is the volume under the roof, which is used to accommodate residential and utility rooms. At the same time, the height of the outer walls should be no more than 1.5 m in the general case, otherwise the space will be considered a full-fledged residential floor.

A do-it-yourself attic is beneficial both during construction and during the operation of a private house. In the first case, costs are reduced due to the fact that the height of the vertical enclosing structures is reduced. The roof takes on this function without ceasing to fulfill its original purpose.

An attic is an under-roof space that can be equipped as a separate room for living.

In operation, cost savings can be as follows:

Decreased space to be heated, consequently, there is a reduction in heating costs, which are an impressive item in the cost of utilities.
After the construction is completed, the house must be measured by specialists from the BTI, after which a passport of the object is issued. It is on the basis of the area values \u200b\u200bgiven in it that taxes are charged and utility bills are paid (provided that they are connected to centralized systems and there are no metering devices, which is now practically not found). The area of the attic floor is included in the area of the whole house with coefficients of 0.7 or 0.8 depending on the height outer wall and the angle of inclination of the roof, which allows significant savings throughout the entire life of the facility.

Preparatory stage

It is worth starting construction with the development of a project or diagrams on which the future structure will be drawn. Most often, the roof that is used for the attic floor is gable, but it is also possible to use a hip four-pitched roof. double slope design allows you to provide full-fledged windows in the gables.

In the case of using a hip to illuminate the premises, it is possible to install only attic window openings. This option can become more time consuming in terms of installing roof elements and designing interiors. Cost reduction with a hip roof is achieved due to the absence of gables (especially savings will be noticeable in brick house, where the cost of materials and the installation of wall fencing is quite high).

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with determining the geometric dimensions and shapes of the roof. Earlier it was already said about the choice of the type of rafter system at home (gable, hip), after which it will be necessary to decide whether the slope will be straight or broken. The broken structure has such disadvantages as increased cost and labor intensity. Its use is justified by the need to increase the height of the room by changing the angle of the roof.

At the design stage, determine optimal slope roofs. Its choice depends on ergonomic considerations and the roofing material used, which imposes limitations.

Before making an attic, it is also necessary to calculate all its load-bearing elements for strength and bending, select the composition of the roof pie, perform thermotechnical calculations and decide on materials. More on this later.

Main bearing elements

The design includes the following components:

rafter legs, which transfer the load from the weight of the roofing and the wall to the walls of the house. The section is selected depending on the angle of inclination, span, step and design load. A professional can correctly perform a detailed calculation. For private construction, approximate values \u200b\u200bcan be used, while it is best to provide a small margin.
Narozhniki- these are rafter legs, which, on one or both sides, are supported by slanted ones. The cross section is calculated in the same way as for rafters.
Slanted legs- the design used in hip roof. This element serves as a support for the sprigs. The cross section is taken depending on the load and the span, in any case it should be larger than that of the rafter legs.
Mauerlat- an element that serves as a support for the stops and transfers the load from the roof to the walls, evenly distributing it. It will be correct to choose a section with dimensions of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150, depending on the complexity of the object. Mauerlat is not installed during the construction of frame and wooden houses, since in this case we play the upper crown of the walls or the strapping in its role.
Rigel- a beam, which is also a support for the rafters, but already in the upper part. The crossbar is installed in the ridge of the roof or at the break of the slope, in case of a broken structure. The cross section should be taken depending on the conditions, as a recommended value, dimensions of 200 by 200 mm can be given.
Struts, racks, fights- additional elements for unfastening elements. They are used to reduce the cross section of load-bearing structures. Their cross section is most often chosen constructively. At the same time, it is important to take into account the convenience of making connections.

A do-it-yourself mansard roof should be built starting from the selection of sections of all elements of the roof frame. The material for manufacturing is selected taking into account the following conditions:

wood must be coniferous (pine, spruce, larch);
material grade - first or second;
humidity not more than 15%.

Be sure to treat all boards and bars with antiseptic compounds before starting construction.

Thermal engineering calculations

To keep the heat in the house, you will need to choose the thickness of the insulation. Most often, mineral wool is used for attic rooms (more often in slabs than in mats). It is also possible to use polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Having determined what to make the heat-insulating layer from, select its thickness. It is important to consider the height of the rafters. It must always be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation. For mineral wool, it will also be necessary to provide a 50 mm ventilation gap between the upper surface of the heat insulator and the roofing. If the cross section of the rafters is small, then in order to fulfill this requirement, a counter-lattice is installed.

Before you build a mansard roof with your own hands, you can calculate it according to heat engineering manually, guided by the Joint Venture "Thermal Protection of Buildings". But it is better to turn to special programs for help. In order to correctly calculate the thickness in the Teremok program (freely available on the network), you need to know the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the area of \u200b\u200bconstruction of the house, the program will find the rest itself.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof is different from the usual pitched roof only with thermal insulation. More layers are also added to the cake to protect the insulation. Below step-by-step instruction will allow you to correctly install the elements of the mansard roof.

The procedure is as follows:

fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
installation of rafters and systems of struts and racks;
installation of waterproofing and wind protection;
crate;
roofing;
warming;
bottom trim.

Assembling the roof frame

Installation begins with a Mauerlat. It is laid on the inner grant of the outer wall. Fastening depends on the material bearing walls, but in general it can be done in several ways:

on staples;
on studs;
on the anchor.

For fragile materials of the walls of the house, such as aerated concrete and foam concrete, a monolithic belt is made along the edge, which will prevent the destruction of the walls. For wooden and frame houses Mauerlat is not provided.

Next, you need to install the crossbars, if any. After the supporting structures are laid, the rafter legs are laid out. The fastening of the rafters to the Mauerlat can be rigid and articulated. It is better to do it with the use of cutting and fixing with metal corners on both sides.

This is a fairly old album, so nails are used as fasteners in all the drawings in it. It is better to replace them with studs. The design of the roof of the house in this regulatory document is shown in great detail, so it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with it before starting work.

Before starting the installation of insulation in the house, it is necessary to ensure its protection from negative influences. environment. To do this, a moisture-windproof membrane is spread over the surface and the crate is fixed. After that, the roofing is mounted, taking into account the recommendations for the selected material. For example, for shingles you need a solid crate, which is most often made of moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation of thermal insulation

To perform the insulation of the house, you need to install a heater without gaps and cracks. For mineral wool, it will be easier to install if the distance between the rafters is 580 or 1180 mm clean. This will allow you to lay the material with a slight expansion, which will prevent cracks.

When using expanded polystyrene, the distance between the plates and rafters is filled with sealant or mounting foam.

After laying the insulation, you need to fix the vapor barrier to it from below. After that, the lower crate and ceiling lining are mounted. For the attic, sheathing with two layers of drywall 12.5 mm thick along the frame is best suited, followed by finishing.

The family is growing, overnight guests are arriving, it's time to include in the plan - "Mansard with your own hands."

The stages of manufacturing a new dwelling in an old house without increasing the land plot are counted on the fingers: design, tool preparation, purchase Supplies, frame installation, cladding, waterproofing and thermal insulation, connection to engineering networks, interior decoration.

Sufficiency of finances and a competent team of designers are the basis for do-it-yourself attic installation.

What it is

Attic - living space in the attic. The roof of the house has been transformed into walls. The attic helps to compactly and comfortably accommodate children and guests in the country or in a private house.

The attic was conceived in the 17th century as a way to increase living space for the poor. Thanks to a French architect named Mansart, reformatting roofs into residential superstructures has become fashionable among wealthy people.

Palaces and houses of the nobility grew with masterpieces of architectural and design ideas. In Russia, until the twentieth century, the practice of erecting mansards was small.

Then, under the sign of building compaction, a boom began in the reconstruction of roofs into attics both on multi-storey buildings and in private residential buildings.

Advantages and disadvantages of construction

The attic pleases with the positive aspects.

Sealing buildings - the problem of large cities, is solved vertically;
The living area of the house is increased due to the attic quadrature;
The building, planned as an attic, provides ready-made infrastructure;
The skylights are angled to the flow of natural light, the interior receives an additional forty percent of the light.
For a new house, the initial construction of the attic is beneficial, since the developer will incur the costs of the roof during construction, additional financing of insulation and finishing will be required.
Reduction of heat consumption by the house during the heating period, as energy losses through the insulated roof will decrease;
Freedom of design ideas when using a non-standard type of walls and ceilings;
Option to mount the attic in one or two levels;
The appearance of the building will become an ornament of the architectural landscape;
There is no need to resettle tenants during the installation of the attic;
No heavy lifting equipment required;

It's important to know: when designing an attic, carefully calculate the additional load on the walls and foundation.

The look at the subject will be one-sided without mentioning the shortcomings.

Construction skills of part-time work during holidays and vacations - an argument to start building an attic with my own hands in a country house or a private house. For hanging in the attic apartment building high-level design and construction qualifications are required, which entails additional costs.
Roof insulation from the influence of precipitation and insulation to prevent heat loss is a complex and costly process;
The height of the wall depends on the angle of the bevel of the ceiling;

Do-it-yourself mansard roof

The design stage smoothly passes into the construction stage. A dusty attic turns into a beautiful room.

Types of truss systems

The roof frame is the basis of the attic. Order a roof structure from the designer, taking into account the planned usable area and the architecture of the house.

The frame system has been developed in four types:

duplex system;
three and ;
hip and semi-hip roof;
broken system.

Project and drawings with dimensions

“What does it cost us to build a house, draw - we will live.” The author of a children's song is right in an adult way. Construction begins with design. building codes and the rules contain general requirements.

An individual project takes into account the features of the layout of the premises planned for re-equipment, the geometry of the roof and the linking of the roof engineering systems to the existing engineering systems of the house.

note: the steeper the roof, the less snow and water is retained.

The geometric dimensions of the roof are determined by the architecture of the house and the desired usable attic area. The useful area takes into account the number of people who will live in the attic, and the mode of residence - permanently or seasonally.

The engineering networks of the house must have a margin for connecting additional electrical, thermal and water loads of the attic being put into operation.

Tools and materials

An amateur attic installer from a finished wooden material tool needed:

hammer;
roulette;
level;
lace;
screwdriver;
saw for woodworking.

Keep in mind: dry wooden structural elements before installation.

The list of materials for the construction of the attic:

wood consumables
bars according to the slope of the slope and the dimensions of the building;
boards for crates;
material for sheathing end walls;
fasteners for roof mounting;
thermal insulation; vapor barrier; waterproofing;
roofing material;
material for interior decoration of the attic.

Installation steps

Mauerlat - wooden foundation for truss construction; a foundation made of timber 100 * 150 mm is placed around the perimeter of the house on top of the waterproofing. The beam is mounted on anchor bolts and studs closer to the inner edge of the supporting wall.
rafter system fasteners - notches are made on the rafter legs so that the legs better rest against the timber. Before installation, determine the installation location of window structures. Leg supports are attached to the foundation with metal corners.
waterproofing and vapor barrier - after the installation of the rafters, mineral wool is laid as thermal insulation. The insulation must be protected from above from precipitation, from below from domestic water vapor. A windproof vapor-permeable membrane is placed on top of the insulation, and a vapor barrier layer is placed on the bottom. To remove condensate from the inside of the insulation, provide forced ventilation. Glue the joints in the waterproofing with adhesive tape.

Interior decoration

The walls and ceiling of the attic are made of smooth dry wood or drywall.

Clapboard trim. Cut-to-size sheets of wood products are attached to a wooden base. To prevent the nail head from being visible, nails are used at the joints. The fixed trim sheet is measured by level to avoid skew.

Take note: upon completion of installation, the lining is varnished in two or three layers.

Plasterboard finish. We mount vertical and horizontal bars with an interval of 1 meter. Sheathing sequence:

stingrays
Gables
Ceiling

We close cracks and gaps in the joints of drywall. The design of the mansard roof is chosen taking into account the dimensions of the house and the thickness of the walls. The attic is mounted from lightweight material to eliminate unnecessary stress on the walls of the house. wooden structures be subject to antibacterial and fire-fighting treatment.

For more information about the stages of manufacturing the attic, see the following video: