How to lay a metal tile with your own hands. Do-it-yourself metal roofing, you will succeed! Guide metal roof assembly technology

28.09.2017 0 Comments

The need for reliable and high-quality overlapping of structures for various purposes is an axiom. Developers increasingly prefer metal tiles to replace classic slate and galvanized sheet. Seemingly complex laying of material, entrusted to specialists, can be successfully completed independently with helpers from among relatives and good friends. Desire, passion, presence necessary tools should be based on certain theoretical knowledge in order to obtain the expected result from the work. Theoretical points and helpful tips presented in this material.

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Coating advantages and disadvantages

In favor of choosing a metal tile, you can bring such qualities roofing material:

environmental friendliness - there are no harmful substances and compounds in the composition;
light weight - 3.6-5.2 kg / m2;
excellent strength, achieved by the presence of structural stiffeners, gives a properly installed metal tile sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm the ability to withstand a load of more than 200 kg / m2;
installation and repair of the roof is not difficult;
Fire safety;
Aesthetically pleasing classic look with a wide choice of material of various thicknesses, profiles, protective coatings and colors;
minimum linear expansion under the influence of temperature and high resistance to its differences.

When choosing a material, you need to know its disadvantages. Metal roofing has:

The tendency to form condensation on the surface of the sheet from the temperature difference between the outside air and the attic. For a material based on metal, this can cause corrosion processes.
Noise when exposed to precipitation (rain, hail) and from contact with wind-swaying tree branches.

Both problems are greatly mitigated mandatory insulation roof from the attic. Insulating "pie" shifts the "dew point" outward and at the same time performs the role of sound insulation.

Calculation of material and necessary fittings

To order full set materials for the arrangement of the roof, it is necessary to measure the prepared structure. To be measured:

Slope length - measured in the center and at the edges of the overhang from the ridge to the outer edge of the lower cornice board. The main indicator is considered the maximum with the addition of a canopy allowance.
Slope widths.
The lengths of the outer (ridges) and inner (valleys) angles and their summation.
Lengths of ridges and cornices along the perimeter of the roof structure.

All measurement results are transferred to a sketch or a roof plan. According to this sketch, a sales consultant or a construction company specialist will be able to accurately calculate the required number of sheets of metal tiles of various sizes. Sheets are produced in 1, 3, 6 or 10 modules (a module is a unit of area equal to one profile row of a metal tile). The selection of sheets of the required dimensions will reduce the amount of material waste when laying a roof with complex geometry.

An example of the layout of sheets of metal tiles on the 1st of the slopes of the hip roof.

When calculating the number of sheets, their useful area is taken into account, which is 8-12% less than the total area due to the overlap of the sheets with each other. Then the list is supplemented by water collectors, valleys, a ridge, snow holders, strips and sheets of steel in the color of the selected tile, and the necessary fasteners. On the roof plan, existing and planned ventilation shafts, antennas, windows (dormer, dormer), chimneys. Their finishing at the junction with the roof will also require the purchase of special fittings.

Preparatory work

The main installation work is preceded by mandatory preparatory work. Their importance cannot be underestimated. At this stage, check:

The correctness of the assembled truss system, the accuracy of its geometry.
The presence of crates, counter-lattices. Correspondence of the section of the molded material and the pitch of the lathing with the pitch of the rafters, the expected load, and the recommendations of the accompanying documentation of the tile manufacturer.
The presence of a solid or additional cornice crate for reliable fastening of the safety elements used (fences, snow guards).
The integrity of the insulation membranes.
The presence of additional boards for fastening skates and boards for strengthening in the valleys.
The possibility of organizing ventilation of the entire space under the roof. For this, obligatory eaves and ridge vents must be provided. If they are present, air enters the cornice part, ventilates and dries the seamy side of the metal tile from possible condensate, and is removed through the ridge zone.
Was the processing of the wooden structure carried out by special means for fire and biological protection.

The device of the truss system, lathing and hydrovapor barrier.

Main works

Step-by-step installation of metal tiles on the roof on your own.

For the provided water drainage system, brackets are mounted no further than 0.7 m from each other.
Eaves strips are nailed (step 30 cm) with galvanized nails. A waterproofing film laid under the crate is slightly let down on the bar and cut off.
The first sheet of metal tiles to be laid is leveled at the pediment and temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the ridge, the other at the eaves.
The next three sheets are temporarily fixed and the whole block is aligned.
Now you need to fix all the sheets of tiles on the crate.
Further, the operation with 3-4 sheets is repeated until the entire slope is covered.
The edges of the metal tile profile should not reach the axis of the ridge at least 8 cm. A ventilation tape is installed on them and then in highest points profile with self-tapping screws (step 30-80 cm) ridge trims are attached.
The gable plank is installed from the bottom up: the fastening step is 30-60 cm, the overlap is 5-10 cm. The plank should cover the top line of the profile wave.

Arrangement of valleys

When the full size sheets of shingles are in place, the interior corners are finished. More on preparatory stage in the valleys, additional sheathing boards were stuffed to be able to withstand the load from possible snow “bags”. Now the gutter itself from the bent sheet is laid from below to the ridge. Vertical overlap of sheets - 200 mm. The width of the sheet from the axis of the valley is 0.5 m per side.

On the laid sheets of the gutter, markings are made (10 mm on the sides of the axis of the valley), along which the sheets adjacent to the inner corner will be cut. A special seal is attached to the edges of the gutter. Cut, according to the markup, sheets of metal tiles are placed in their places and attached to the crate no closer than 0.25 m from the axis of the corner. An indicator of proper fastening is the absence of gaps between the tiles and the sealant and the tight fit of the sheet to the board of the crate at the point of fastening. If the edges of the tile fit to the valley were cut off unevenly and with defects, do not worry. All flaws will be hidden under the installed decorative overlay.

Roofing near pipes

Pipes passing through the roof and ventilation shafts around the perimeter are lined with a wall profile made of bent galvanized sheets with a stable polymer coating. The overlap of the profiles on the pipe is at least 15 cm. They are attached to the crate under the sheets of tiles, the junction with the pipe is treated with sealant. Under the lower profile, a “tie” is wound up and fastened - a flat triangular sheet with a flanging - to ensure that the water that enters under the roof is drained from the pipe towards the eaves. After mounting the wall profile, the “tie” and the metal tile itself, the elements of the adjacent “apron” are installed at the joints with the pipe.

Accessories

The installation of the accessories provided for by the plan is carried out strictly according to the technology specified by the manufacturer in the attached instructions for a specific product. But all installed stairs, railings, ventilation outlets, walkways and other accessories are united by general rule fastenings - through sheets of roofing material directly to the crate using synthetic gaskets.

A metal tile is a measured material, the length of the sheets of which reaches 7.5 m. For its temporary storage or long-term storage, a flat area is selected with installed through 0.5 m wooden beams. The same bars are used as spacers between sheets. A stack of folded sheets is covered and pressed down from above (in 2-3 places) with a load that can prevent unwanted movement of the material from gusts of wind.
The supply of roofing material to the roof is carried out along two boards, as if along guides.
The use of a "grinder" when working with a metal tile should be excluded, because when cutting, in addition to the edge in the cut area, the polymer coating is also broken (burned through) in places where hot metal filings hit it. Second important point– The warranty for sheets cut with this power tool is voided by the manufacturer.
Seals are not used under the decorative overlay of the valley. When fixing the overlays, you need to make sure that the valley itself is not damaged by self-tapping screws.
The wall adjoining profile can be mounted immediately on the wall plane or in a prepared strobe with the obligatory sealing of the joint with a sealant.
A large overhang from the eaves can cause deformation of the edge of the metal tile. The optimal overhang is 40 mm.
Self-tapping screws are purchased at the rate of 7-10 pieces / m2. The length of the self-tapping screws for fastening the tiles to the crate is 25 mm, between each other - 19 mm.
Usually, a metal tile is attached to the crate in every third wave of the profile; near the gables, ridges and cornices - through the wave. The self-tapping screw is driven 1.5 cm below the stamping line.
Working with metal tiles requires maximum accuracy and delicacy to preserve the sprayed layer. Therefore, when working on the roof, shoes with soft soles are used.

The technology of mounting a roof from a metal tile profile is not complicated. Following her points and proper maintenance of the roof in the future can remove the issue of overlapping the building from the agenda for 50 years.

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Metal roofing has firmly entered our lives. It is this option that more and more people choose to cover the roof. It has many advantages, and one of the main ones is considered long term operation and reliability. But for these advantages to really work, the installation must be carried out correctly. And what is the technology of laying metal tiles on the roof? What difficulties may arise on the way to the implementation of this task? This will be discussed in the article.

How much material is needed and how to choose it

Laying metal tiles with your own hands is a completely feasible task. But before you start it, you should purchase the material itself, and in the right amount. In order to determine how many sheets of metal tiles you need, you should do the following:

Calculate the area of the roof. If the roof is gable, then this will not be difficult to do. Difficulties with calculations will arise with a more complex roof configuration. For a four-slope, broken or other option, you should calculate the area of \u200b\u200beach slope separately.
After that, you can decide on the right amount of the metal tile itself. But even here difficulties can arise. Firstly, the laying of the material on the roof is carried out with an overlap. Secondly, you should definitely monitor the correctness of the drawing.
It is necessary to add 10-15 percent to the calculated amount of metal tiles. You will not be able to lay the material without trimming, especially on a roof with a complex configuration.

After calculating the right amount of metal tiles for laying on the roof of your new home, you can go to the hardware store. But the purchase itself should be done carefully so as not to purchase low-quality products. To prevent this from happening, you should pay attention to some features.

Firstly, the protective polymer layer of the metal tile should not have chips and cracks. Secondly, the sheets themselves must be even, without dents or kinks. In addition, ask the sellers for material documentation. It should indicate that the metal tile is made according to the existing GOST.

Another tip is to buy directly from a major manufacturer. In this case, the cost of metal tiles may be less than thirty percent. Why the big one? The fact is that many entrepreneurs buy machines for the production of metal tiles. But not all of them have the quality of products at the right level. Large manufacturers are more "reverent" about their reputation.

Preparing the base for metal roofing

Laying metal tiles on the roof is made using crates. You can make it with your own hands. To do this, you need to prepare the material. As a rule, for the crate is used wooden planks or bars, but you can also put a sheet of chipboard. The latter option in the case of metal tiles is rarely used. For this type of roofing material, the lathing is discharged.

The boards or bars used must meet the following requirements:

Humidity of the material is not more than 10-12 percent.
All boards should be the same size, especially their thickness.
Do not use material with "flaws", for example, with cracks or places prone to decay.

For most often use boards with dimensions of 25 by 100 millimeters. If the roof has a complex configuration, then it is better to use thicker bars.

It is very important to determine the step of the crate. It all depends on. The step of laying the boards should be equal to the distance between the waves. But this does not apply to all sections of the roof. At the cornice, the step between the boards of the crate should be less, by about 2-3 centimeters.

The technology of laying the boards of the roof sheathing under the metal tile is simple. Work should start from the cornice. The first board is mounted on the very edge. Further, an indent of 23-28 centimeters is made and the next one is attached. After that, the boards are laid with a step equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

You can fix it with wood screws or nails. The first option is considered the most reliable. Fastening is made directly to the rafters, two points.

Before installation, it is very important to treat all boards with special impregnations. Wood is a "capricious" material. He is "afraid" of moisture, fire and biological effects, if the boards are not treated with impregnations, they will quickly rot.

Do not forget about waterproofing. Of course, if the metal tile is laid correctly, the roof will not leak. But you can not do without an additional layer of waterproofing. The fact is that with temperature changes under the roofing material, condensation begins to form. If moisture gets on the wooden elements of the truss system, they will begin to rot.

Can be used as waterproofing various materials. You can lay a thick plastic film or a special membrane. Roofing material can also be used as an inexpensive option, but you should be careful here. If the bitumen gets on the polymer layer of the metal tile, then the latter may begin to "deteriorate".

What you need to lay the material

Putting a metal tile with your own hands on the roof of a house is a simple task. But in order for everything to go quickly and without hesitation, you should prepare for work. First of all, you need to acquire all the tools and fixtures.

Laying metal tiles on the roof with your own hands is carried out using the following:

You should also prepare the right materials. In addition to self-tapping screws and the metal tile itself, you should “stock up” with additional products. Any roof of the house is not complete without a cornice and end plank, a ridge and other details. It is advisable to purchase them from the same manufacturer from whom the metal tile was purchased.

Installation instructions

Now it is worth considering such a question as laying metal tiles step by step. The technology of this process is as follows:

The first step is to fix the cornice and end plank. These additional elements play an important role, they protect the roof of the house. Before mounting the cornice strip, the frontal board is nailed. Brackets for the drain are attached to it. After that, installation is carried out eaves plank.
If the roof has negative angles, then the next step will be the installation of the valley. This element must be placed on a continuous crate.
Next, you can carry out the laying of the metal tile itself. You need to do this from the eaves. From which side of the roof, from the right or from the left, to start is the business of the master himself. It's not essential. The first sheet must be laid flush with the cornice and the edge of the roof. The next is placed on the right or left.
The installation procedure is simple. First, the bottom row is mounted. Further, the next and so on to the skate. Most best option- this is if it matches the length of the slope. In this case, the laying will be carried out faster, and the roof itself will turn out to be more reliable (there will be few joints). But if the roof is broken or has a complex configuration, then this will not work.
It is not necessary to fasten sheets of metal tiles to the crate immediately. First, one row is laid out. Next, you should align all the sheets relative to each other and the edges of the roof. After that, it is carried out. At the same time, there should be at least eight self-tapping screws for each square meter.
Attachment points should be strictly above the boards of the crate. The installation instructions indicate that the screws are screwed one and a half centimeters below the stamping line of the metal tile. At the same time, you can not be too zealous. The cap should firmly press the metal tile to the base, while not damaging it.
The instructions for laying metal tiles indicate the next step - this is the fastening of the upper valley. Its laying is carried out on top of the roofing material. In this case, it is necessary to use special products that improve the tightness of the joints. The valley is the most dangerous place on any roof. It is here that leaks are most often observed.
Next, along, is the laying of additional products. This is a skate end strips etc. It is best that they are from the same manufacturer. In this case, the installation will take place without much difficulty. In addition, it will provide a more attractive appearance and greatly improve the protection of the roof of the house.
When laying additional materials, one should also be attentive to waterproofing and other “additions”. This is especially true for the horse. Here, in addition to the seal to improve leakage protection, other devices should be used that will ensure the presence of a ventilation gap. Without such a "gap", the condensate that forms under the metal tile when the temperature changes can quickly disable the truss system.

Metal tile is the most popular roofing material that successfully combines not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. The installation of a roof made of metal tiles requires strict adherence to the technology of work.

When the installation of the metal roof is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint.

From overalls you will need:

gloves;
protective glasses;
shoes with soft soles.

From the tools you need to prepare:

screwdriver;
construction stapler;
hammer;
tape measure with a rag tape;
jigsaw;
hacksaw with fine teeth;
scissors for metal, manual or electric nibblers;
manual circular electric saw with carbide cutting elements.

Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is forbidden to use a grinder and any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!

Otherwise, you not only reduce the operational properties of the roof, but also automatically lose the warranty of the manufacturer of the metal tile.

Taking measurements and calculating materials

From metal tiles

The metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50 mm. The area of the waves, excluding the top and bottom cut, is the usable area of the sheet. To calculate the number of rows of required sheets horizontally, it is necessary to divide the maximum length of the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the useful width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets in a row can be calculated by dividing the total length of the sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. The total length of the sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang by 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, an inclined ridge, the length should completely cover all bevels.

When choosing the length of the sheet, keep in mind that at short lengths, the expansion coefficient of the metal is less, respectively, the tension of the metal is less and the likelihood of self-tapping screws breaking, loosening of holes and destruction of the metal in these places. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.

To minimize waste, before buying a metal tile, make a drawing of the roof, lay out the sheets according to the resulting scheme, taking into account the joints, so that the waves form a single sheet over the entire roof area.

When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.

When calculating the amount of insulation, the total area of the roof is multiplied by 0.2m2 (recommended insulation thickness).

When calculating the additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).

The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1 m2 of metal tiles / 1 m of additional elements.

All calculations are made with rounding up.

Rules for the construction of the truss system

Scheme of a hanging truss system of a gable roof.

When planning the truss system, the features of the shape of the roof, wind and snow load are taken into account. For a roof made of metal, experts recommend a distance between the rafters of 600-900mm. Suitable as material for rafters tree species with humidity not more than 18-22%. Pre-all wooden elements roof structure, including the crate and additional reinforcing strips, must be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.

If roof insulation is planned, holes up to 2.5 cm in diameter are drilled in the upper lateral part of the rafters in increments of 30 cm to create additional inter-rafter ventilation.

The old truss structure can also be the basis for a metal roof.

Before the construction of the truss system (including if it will be carried out on old roof) make sure the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes diagonally, check the horizontalness of the cornice, ridge, kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.

By building codes- 14°. In conditions of snowy winters and rainy climate, the recommended angle of inclination is 20-30°.

Installation of cornice and frontal boards, filing the cornice

Usually, the installation of a roof involves the presence of either a cornice or a frontal board.

Variants of knots of a tiled roof.

The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is fixed in special grooves cut in the rafters in order to avoid increasing the height of the truss structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves on the cornice board for them. Installation of long hooks is carried out before the installation of metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of the metal tile is completed. They are attached to the frontal board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs amplifying and protective functions.

For filing the cornice on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the frontal board, a bar is horizontally stuffed. Then, between it and the frontal board, a crate is made in the form of transverse bars, on which the hemming material is then attached (corrugated board, siding or spotlights that match in color and material with the metal tile).

The basic rule when filing a cornice is to ensure a free flow of air into roof space through ventilation gaps. The recommended ratio of the total areas of ventilation gaps and the roof is 1/100, the distribution of gaps over the roof is proportional to the areas of its individual elements.

Ventilation gaps are provided either between the lining panels (with the exception of perforated soffits), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the last lining panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grate with small cells.

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows.

The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while possessing vapor permeability. It is forbidden to use a bitumen-based waterproofing material when constructing a roof made of metal!

If it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated roof ridge seal due to ventilation gaps between the metal tile and the waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and the insulation (two-circuit ventilation).

The waterproofing film is rolled out without turning over from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Places of overlap must be isolated with a special tape on an adhesive basis. Please note that the places of overlaps fall on the wooden elements of the truss structure and the crate.

To exclude tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size from the cold and the "play" of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the legs of the rafters. If you are using anti-condensate or classic waterproofing, double-circuit ventilation is required with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.

The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line, and cover the end boards at the ends. The overlap on the walls of such roof elements as chimneys and ventilation pipes must be at least 50 mm with an additional layer laid around.

Lathing device, installation of the lower valley

For a roof with an interrafter pitch of 900 mm, boards with a section of 30x100 mm are suitable for the lathing, and with a section of 25x100 mm with a pitch of 600 mm. In the case of increasing the distance between the rafters, when installing the crate, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50x100mm or 50x150mm. The height of the section of the lowest (initial) lath of the crate should be greater than the height of the other laths by the height of the wave of the sheet, since the top of the metal tile step lies on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the eaves. The second purlin is fastened with a step of 280mm, and all subsequent ones - with a step of 350mm.

The fastening point of the ridge rail must be reinforced with two additional rails in 50mm increments. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the other boards of the crate to create a ventilation gap.

Around the protruding elements of the roof, a continuous crate is made. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the crate must also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the crate. A waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should go to the cornice board.

Installation of sheets of metal

The scheme of installation of sheets of metal.

The lifting of sheets of metal tiles to the roof is carried out with the help of ropes along two guide lags fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on a metal tile is allowed only in places where the wave is deflected and only along the contour of the crate.

Each metal tile sheet has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually start laying on the side where you do not need to cut the sheet. Sheets can be mounted both from left to right, and vice versa with an overlap in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.

Basic rules for laying metal tiles

Docking "along the waves" to protect the roof from side wind. Self-tapping screws at the docking point are screwed into the crest of the joined wave just below the stamping line. First of all, tighten the longitudinal joints.
Docking "in rows" with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the cornice line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the crate with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly applied to the slope, you should screw in the remaining screws and finally fix the docked row.

To use roofing screws with an EPDM gasket and a protective layer to match the roof standard sizes 4.8x28mm. Screwing is carried out at the places where the sheet is attached to the crate into the base of the wave perpendicular to the crate to the state of a slightly compressed gasket, the steel chips are removed with a brush with soft bristles.

To the initial plank of the crate, the sheets are attached above the step through the wave, and to the subsequent purlins - through longitudinal wave in every second transverse as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile in the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.

The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner, or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.

Installation of the end plate, upper valley and junction bars

The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is closed with an end plank, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a step of 350 mm and with an overlap of 100 mm.

The end bar is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turned out that the bottom ridge fell on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet up.

When mounting the upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in in such a way as to exclude their passage through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise, the waterproofing layer will be broken. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (adjacency strips) and the metal tile.

Installation of the ridge bar and snow retainer

The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50 mm for unimpeded evaporation of moisture. In places of point ventilation holes, a sealant must be applied. The ridge batten should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end on the end battens with an edge protrusion of 20-30 mm by attaching it to the upper ridge and the crate through the wave. In order to avoid blowing snow under the ridge, an aero roller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.

To prevent an avalanche from the roof of snow is necessary. Even at the stage of the crate installation, provide for the intended attachment points of this support element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. carried out parallel to the cornice with fastening under the second transverse step of the metal tile sheet.

Metal roofing also needs to be grounded in order to ensure the safety of the entire building as a whole.

When the metal tile is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of operation of the roof, check the condition of the screws, if necessary, tighten loose ones.

Choice roofing baths - the question is both simple and complex. Even a large number of roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception, each bath owner is trying to find his own solution. And we do not aim to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their opinion - there is no perfect roof, just as there is no completely bad one, each has strong and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and complexity of installation.

The most prestigious and complex are considered to be piece coatings made of tiles, it can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although even among these types of coatings, the difference in price by brand may differ factor of. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance. Variants of coatings with metal and flexible tiles are most often found in bath coatings, and we will focus on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with brief characteristics coatings.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Advantages

Cheap, fast installation, a wide selection of colors and geometric shapes. You can also mention durability, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are made with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then in 6-7 years the coating will have to be repaired or changed. Conscientious licensed manufacturers for elite brands of products give a guarantee of 25 years or more.

Flaws

Noisy during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical, in the bath no one is going to sleep light sleep. And if an attic is made on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - for baths, metal tiles are an excellent roofing.

It is necessary to transport metal tiles only in a horizontal position, the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Carefully unload the roof, transfer sheets only in a vertical position, avoid sharp bends.

We will describe the most difficult method of installing metal tiles - with a warm roof. Depending on the specific use of the attic space, you can simplify the installation process and skip some steps.

Step by step installation instructions

Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the truss system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types, checking their dimensions does not take much time.

How to do it? First you need to check the diagonals of the truss system, the difference in values \u200b\u200bshould not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull the rope between the extreme rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted, deflection corrections are done during nailing the crate.

Step 2 If possible, treat all wooden elements of the truss system with antiseptic agents of complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase fire safety. For a bath, this is an important factor.

Step 3 Waterproofing installation.

It will protect the insulation layer from condensation of moisture vapor. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles, water droplets can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-shielding performance. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton with wooden structures may cause premature deterioration. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the side of the attic and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls, during installation, you need to follow the markings, lines are drawn on the front surface. Simple bath roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start waterproofing exactly near the chimneys, stretch the material around the entire perimeter and fix it with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of the condensate drain, it is desirable to glue the joints of the membranes with a special tape or ordinary adhesive tape.

The chimney has been processed - proceed to the waterproofing of the slopes. Lay the rolls from the bottom up, fix to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow significant sagging of the material; in no case should it touch the mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattices.

Such a device increases the efficiency of natural ventilation between the roofing and the crate. Some builders skip this operation, they believe that there are enough gaps between the crate and the coating sheets for ventilation. Both methods have the right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much during the arrangement of roofing.

Step 4

Nail wind boards along the eaves, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For the crate, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30 × 50 mm. The first board or rail from the cornice should be a centimeter thicker than the rest to increase the strength of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The step of the crate should be equal to the step of the wave of the metal tile.

Lathing under the metal tile - photo

Nail the first rail at the eaves, check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a marriage. In order to speed up the process of nailing the crate, you need to cut off several rails along the length of the wave step, they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - beat off with a blue rope parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the desired distance. When nailing the rails, be guided by these lines. The ridge must have slats, the distance of the slats from the ridge cannot exceed ten centimeters. Reiki are needed to fix the ridge metal element of the roofing.

The wavelength of a metal tile depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet, select the tile taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer provides its products with instructions describing the optimal performance of the roof and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney, you need to make a continuous crate with a width of about 20 ÷ 25 centimeters.

Step 5 Installation of a chimney apron.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, their list also includes metal junction strips for the chimney. They look like flat plates; you need to cut out the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the lower part of the chimney, beat off this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line ≈10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line must be bent at an angle equal to the exit angle of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Do not be afraid to make a mistake, while fixing the element, the angle will align to the existing dimensions.

Scheme of installation of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall of the brick pipe. Under the lower element of the apron, a flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanging on the sides should be placed, along which the water will go into the water collectors. In the same way, the side walls of the pipe are trimmed, and the upper part is sealed last.

In order to prevent water from entering the stacks of the chimney under the roofing, it is recommended to drown the side strips in the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line on the chimney to fit the upper edge of the plank. A grinder with a diamond disc cuts a line (strobe) at the marked place. The cut must be cleaned of dust and washed. The bent edge of the bar is inserted into the strobe and sealed with silicone along the entire length. So you need to do around the perimeter brick chimney. The planks are screwed with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks, carefully perform all sealing operations.

The external apron for sealing the chimney is installed after laying the metal tile. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron, we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leakage. By time full installation one apron will not take more than two or three hours, this is not the time due to the savings of which you can put the entire roof of the bath at additional risk.

Step 5 Installation of hooks for drainage system.

Hooks should be fixed even before the installation of the drip of metal tiles, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, cornice strips can also be installed.

Important. The bottom of the cornice strip should drop slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, with strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the eaves. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after the installation of the metal tile.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length, mark on each holder a line to bend at the desired location.

How to do this, let's look at an example. Let's say the length of the roof slope of the bath is 6 meters, the slope between the extreme holders should be approximately 6 × 3 = 18 millimeters. Lay all the hooks in a row and trim their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark the point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line, each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders must be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Do not be upset if during the bends it is not possible to maintain accuracy up to a millimeter, the gutter itself will eventually fall into place.

Step 6 A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter, the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of a few centimeters, the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the chute with metal tabs on the holders. To increase the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and is fixed by bending the metal tongue.

Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensate will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the eaves.

Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles rise to the roof one at a time, you can use wooden logs installed from the ground with an emphasis on the beginning of the ramp.

If the bath is two-story, then canvas belts should be used to lift it.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the cornice and the end of the roof.

If the truss system was made in accordance with all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, put the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end doborny element will close the irregularities of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how much is needed per 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the crate by at least two centimeters.

In the lower part of the sheet, fastening is carried out in each deflection of the wave, then the sheets are fastened through the deflection in a checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it goes under the first. This should be kept in mind and do not screw the screws on the extreme waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move along the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes, legs should be placed only in places where the wave bends.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without undercompressing or pinching. The rubber washer should be firmly pressed against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9 Installation of skate bars.

They can be flat and semicircular, equipped with end caps of the corresponding profile. Lay the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters, fix to the metal tile with ridge screws.

Step 10 Installation of end plates.

Trim the ends, all the laths of the crate should be on the same line. Planks on the one hand are fixed to the wind boards, on the other - to the roofing.

If a metal sandwich pipe is used in the bath for the chimney, then to exit it to the roof, you need to install a special additional device for engineering equipment - a rubber outlet. Its outlet diameter is changed by cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How is the outlet of a metal pipe sealed?

Step, No.	Description	illustration
Step 1	On the roof, mark the place where the chimney exits, cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant on the waterproofing sealant, glue it and fix it with metal strips to the laths or boards of the crate
Step 3	Attach the base of the exit to the profile of the metal tile and bend it to size
Step 4	Apply a layer of sealant on the underside of the outlet, install the outlet in place and fix it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device must be approximately 20% smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe

If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from the one described above, only the appearance and engineering of the ventilation cap differ.

The last "touch" - snow retainers. It is recommended to install them in areas with a large snow cover, they protect the spillway systems from mechanical damage. Brackets are placed at the bottom of the wave of the metal tile only above the crate. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and slats. They are needed for high-strength bolts, snow retainers must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to mount the brackets on rubber pads, the snow retainer tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.

Prices for snow guards

snow retainers

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles take their rightful place, this coating is universally used, it can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.

In terms of price, the material belongs to the middle category. Of course, the spread of prices among various brands and manufacturers of flexible tiles can be significant, but in terms of average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. In the baths it can be seen very often. All advertising booklets of manufacturers attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of colors, but also the shape of "petals" of tiles.

But none of the manufacturers gives photos of roofs with soft tiles after 5÷6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time, enough dust accumulates between the particles of crumbs for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating, some people may like it - a real "retro-roof". Let them like it, but mosses and lichens "do not like" the roof itself, root system plants at an accelerated pace destroys the base of soft tiles. No "modified" bitumen and nonwovens cannot withstand the impact of wildlife. This means that it's time to save money for a complete replacement of the roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work in a "long box", in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate, the top veneer will peel off. We'll have to change and expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the crate, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are moss cleaning options, but they simultaneously “cleanse” the surface from crumbs and bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is also a more expensive version of thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
The distance between the rafters of the crate, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the materials of the crate, depending on the distance between the rafter legs. The most beneficial is the use of thinner slabs laid on a step crate of unedged boards. So the strength can be adjusted independently, and the price of the crate is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - a place can be found for almost all scraps of the slab. We will stop at this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the truss system and the reliability of fixing all its nodes. Constructions flexible cover much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, and these are additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters with a stretched rope. Deflections were found - make marks in these places and eliminate them while laying the step crate. The distance between the boards of the crate is 20 ÷ 30 centimeters.

Step 2 Start nailing the OSB boards.

The basis for a flexible tile - a continuous crate

Baths usually have small size and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of material cuts, which means time and quality. You can fasten the plates with ordinary nails 40 ÷ 50 mm long, there is a desire to suffer and pay extra money for this flour - fix the plates with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy around the need to leave a gap between the plates, they say, it will compensate for thermal expansion.

You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is first. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter, by which the plate can really expand, are crushed at the edges without any problems. Try to keep the plates as flat as possible in the same plane. But a run of a few millimeters should not upset you, flexible tiles can easily hide them without degrading their properties.

Step 3 Fasten the hooks of the drainage system.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph 5 of the "Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles" section. And the general algorithm for installing a spillway system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4 Install metal droppers on the cornice overhang, fix them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to drive nails into metal with a special hammer, it has a sharp tooth, which first makes holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is hammered. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5 The installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney, lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is sold in the kit. We strongly advise you to put the same barrier around the entire perimeter of the cornice overhangs. It is inexpensive, but will bring many benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and stick it carefully, avoid bending, the surface must be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm, if the barrier does not adhere well, use a special liquid bituminous mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place under the cut line flat board, cut off, remove the board and glue the piece prepared in size. You can additionally fix the lining carpet with carnations with wide caps, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the step is 25 ÷ 30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15 °, then it is better to lay the lining carpet on all slopes. The material is laid from the bottom up, the overlaps are sealed with bituminous mastic. On the ridge, the barrier must be laid in all cases.

One more moment. If the shingle profile has deep cuts, for example jazz, tail, trio, then the lining carpet should be applied to the entire roof.

Step 6 To protect the ends from wind loads, gable strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the studs is about twenty centimeters, do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the windboard, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 7 Roof slope marking. Parallel horizontal lines should be beaten along the lining carpet with a blued rope, the distance between them is approximately five times the width of the tile, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. Such a grid will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of skewed rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to keep the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to observe it on difficult sections of the roof, to correct the wrong dimensions of the slope.

Step 8 Lay a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney, be sure to coat the joints with bituminous mastic.

Step 9 Setting up the starting line.

A very important stage, treat its implementation with the utmost attention. Perform work from the center of the eaves, cut off the excess along the edges. This method will allow the entire roof to be made symmetrical, and this is very important for the appearance of the bath. The starting strip has its own profile and an increased thickness of the adhesive layer. From the back, remove the protective film, carefully lay the material and fix in a checkerboard pattern with carnations with wide caps. 1.5 cm should be retreated from the edge of the dropper.

Step 10. Shingles should be mixed randomly before laying, do not take them in a row from one pile.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes form on your roof with various shades. When shingles are mixed, this problem disappears. A protective film is removed from the reverse side of each shingle, the tiles are evenly glued and additionally fixed with nails.

Important. When driving nails in the lower part of the tiles, attention should be paid to ensure that their hats are necessarily closed by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should recede from the starting strip by one centimeter.

There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of the adhesive layer, it is a little easier to work with them. Drive nails only at a right angle, hats should not cut into the roof. Four nails are enough for one meter-long shingle, the hat should be located at least two centimeters from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints are additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to saw through the strobe, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction points are carefully smeared with mastic.

Passing element - fixation

Step 12 Decorating the fronts. The edges of the shingles are additionally smeared with mastic. Excess parts are cut off in a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then closed with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bituminous mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the truss system. The metal ridge covering is pasted over with soft tiles. It can be cut out from the ordinary or torn along the perforation lines of the eaves. Secure the shingles with four nails, two on each side. Lay the skate towards the prevailing wind direction.

If the horse has sharp corner or work on laying tiles is carried out in the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be heated with a building hair dryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their shingles can be installed at -5°C. Do not believe and do not experiment, work should be done only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. It will be narrow at the top and slightly wider at the bottom. The wide flat part of the factory cut will hide all the handmade irregularities.

On this work on the roof is completed, you can proceed to the insulation of the roof.

shingles prices

flexible tile

Video - Installation of flexible tiles

Did you know that even the most simple views metal tiles can give the roof of your home an elite and modern look? After all, often people who come to visit turn their eyes to it. So why not for so low price not to get a smart roof? And if this is your plan for the near future, then in this article you can read how a metal roof is laid with your own hands step by step, its types, positive and negative sides, and much more.

Types of metal tiles and their protective coatings

When corrosion occurs on a metal tile, developers often blame manufacturers for the poor quality of the metal, but it should be understood that this sheet material is produced according to standards that are constantly reviewed by construction commissions. Therefore, the problem most likely lies elsewhere - in the protective coating. It can last as one year, and the full term of operation.

Therefore, if you are worried about the reliability of your roof, then you should consider purchasing materials that will more reliably protect your roofing. Today in the construction market you can find the following products:

Polyester . This material is universal, because it is suitable for almost all climatic zones and can withstand a very wide temperature range. Maximum corrosion resistance. Different manufacturers of polyester have different prices for it, but remain in the average values. When self-spraying, it is worth considering that the layer should be at least 25 microns
Matte polyester . As the name implies, this is a branch of the standard. Its thickness is usually 35 microns. After spraying, the element to be painted acquires a richer appearance, for which, and aesthetic values increase. Matte finish can mimic natural materials. Corrosion resistance is at an average level, which is also a pretty good indicator. This material withstands heat well (up to +120C o), but does not tolerate low temperatures (up to -10C o). Therefore, in northern latitudes, it is not advisable to use matte polyester.

Almost 100% corrosion protection of roofing material against corrosion can be achieved by spraying a protective layer of 50 microns. Thanks to this thickness, you can also get rid of the noise of raindrops and hail. A wide temperature range (from +150C to -90C) will allow you to use this product anywhere. UV rays do not affect the standing of the protective coating in any way, so if you want to protect your roof for a long time, then you should choose this particular thickness for spraying.

Pastizol . It is quite outdated material. It is mainly used in highly corrosive environments. The service life of such a protective layer is at least 20 years, it has a rich appearance, which sets excellent competition for modern coatings. Direct sunlight over time does not affect the functionality and color of protection. Relative cheapness makes this material available to any developer
Granite chips . A stone as protection is a bold idea. It is not possible to prepare such a protective coating on your own, but in the store you can find a fairly wide range of such products. They are usually based on polyurethane and granite chips in a ratio of 1:1, and, of course, other binders. Positive aspects this product is: colossal resistance to physical damage, high protection against solar radiation, tolerates large temperature fluctuations. However, not bad protection, but has a rather high price.
The most ancient and proven protection for centuries is the coating of the base metal. aluminum and zinc . It is believed that a coating of 20 microns is more than enough, however, there is no need to argue with this, because the average life of such parts is 25 years. One of the important positive qualities is cheapness.

Before you immediately purchase the roofing you like, ask the seller what type of polymers are used as a protective coating. If the answer suits you, then you can lay your roof with the acquired material with peace of mind. Otherwise, you will be crammed with a low-quality product, which over time will become for you only a reason for repair.

IMPORTANT: If soundproofing is of particular importance to you, then you should apply a polyurethane coating, but if your housing has two floors (a residential floor and a non-residential attic), then you should skip this option, because then the price of the roof will be 30-40% cheaper .

Advantages and disadvantages of metal roofing

Each material has its strengths and weaknesses, so in order not to be mistaken, I have prepared for you small lists describing the properties of metal tiles.

And I'll start with the positive:

Economic benefit in relation to other types of roofing is obvious. The fact is that the material to be laid has a low mass, therefore, the device complex structures truss system is not required, which entails savings on materials, installation work. With all the same cheapness, the material has a rather long service life - 50 years
As already mentioned above, metal tile is a relatively light roofing material. Its load on the base is in the range of 3.6-5.2 kg / 1 m 2. The use of protective layers of polyurethane will only reduce this figure, but zinc with aluminum will increase by a whole kilogram. Never take load indicators on the Internet. This is learned from each seller individually, because each manufacturer can issue sheets with the content different thicknesses metal (from 0.3 to 1.2mm)
High corrosion resistance. If you want to observe the process of corrosion on a newly laid roof, then you have to wait a little over 25 years. In addition, the roof is reliably protected from ultraviolet rays, moisture, sudden temperature changes.
Knowledge from physics lessons that metal is not a combustible material will be quite sufficient to declare a metal tile fireproof. Shingles are ideal as a fire resistant material, making them head and shoulders above the same ECO straw roofs or other roofs using combustible materials.
Attractive appearance. metal roof once became an indicator of the status of the owner, and this trend continues to this day. Most likely, this is due to the fact that metal is very often used on complex roofs, and they, in turn, are used only in overall houses.

Due to its ease of installation, metal roofing can be easily laid by hand, by the way, you will learn about this process below.

Looking at all the positive qualities of the material, one would assume that such a product has no negative sides, but still it is not. And here are the sides:

If you do not purchase material with sound insulation, then you can suffer from the noise of falling drops or hail during rain. If your building is two-story or has an attic that you are not going to equip as a living space, then this can still be tolerated being on the ground floor, otherwise such annoying noise will definitely force you to take the necessary measures
With incorrect calculations, you can get into an awkward situation when material is required, but it is no longer there. Often, such a difficulty is encountered when they purchase a metal tile in a tutelka in a tutelka. It is worth understanding that complicated roof is not a simple system, and, consequently, there will be moments when the cut off part of the material is no longer good for anything. As a conclusion, I can say that the installation of metal tiles generates a large amount of waste, which is a negative side
The smooth surface of the roof during operation can play a trick on you. The fact is that when a large amount of precipitation falls in the winter, a situation may arise when they start moving. As a rule, such a process does not bring anything good. Indeed, when snow melts from the roof of a building, people passing under it at that moment may suffer. There is a solution to this problem - the installation of snow holders and various kinds of fences, but this will entail additional costs, again minus

Most developers do not seek to make an intricate design out of the roof, quite simple, but of high quality, which is why they are attracted to metal tiles, because everyone can afford to buy such material, and installation of all structures from scratch can be done in the shortest period of time, and it is about him that I will consider in the next chapters.

Calculation of the need for materials

Calculating the materials required to build a good roof can be done in as little as 30 minutes using a pen and paper, but it's pretty frivolous if you don't know. technological process metal tile installation. In this case, it is best to trust professionals.

The calculation process begins with measuring the length of the slopes from the ridge to the very bottom. Do not forget to take into account a slight overlap, which is usually 10-15 cm. For this not tricky manipulation, you need to subtract 10 cm from each sheet. As for the vertical joints, here the overlap will be already 15 cm, but the technique for determining the missing material is exactly the same. The number of rows is determined by dividing the values, where the first will be the length of the roof, and the second will be the working area of \u200b\u200bthe sheet (taking into account an overlap of 15 cm).

V modern world thanks to computers, it is not difficult to calculate the exact number of sheets, the error is only a couple of centimeters. This is a negligible value when compared with the calculations in the mind.

The length of this roofing can reach 12 meters, which in most cases allows you to completely cover the slope with one sheet. If this is possible for you, then you will not only avoid waste, but also benefit from roof waterproofing, because the fewer joints, the less likely moisture will flow into them.

For the device of the truss structure and its elements, you will need some additional calculations and the cost of purchasing them. Please note that in addition to this, you will need to equip your roof with the necessary fencing, perimeter gutters, snow holders, etc.

As you can see, the selection of the required amount of material for the installation of a roof made of metal tiles can be done by hand, but this is with certain knowledge. When knowledge is not enough, contact the experts.

Arrangement of vapor barrier and waterproofing layers

You have probably heard that excessive moisture content in the air can adversely affect the life of natural materials such as wood. Therefore, in the process of laying any roofing material, you must first take care of some protection.

Work on the installation of water-removing layers will not take much time and money, while increasing the life of the entire roof by several decades. So, what to do for this?

Laying a waterproofing layer. This process is best done when you are at the top. In this case, on horseback. It is from there that the rolls of waterproofing protection are rolled out. You must understand that waterproofing should not have many holes, so it is best to mount it on construction adhesive tape. Some developers even manage to use double-sided tape, but this is a dubious alternative. The sagging of the material at the eaves should be about 30 centimeters
Insulation plate flooring. Of course, you can use non-tiled material, but in general, I think the work is clear. With this work, I hope there will be no problems, and where do they come from? The only snag may be the moment when you cannot fit the insulation board between the rafter legs. To do this, you will have to cut it into the necessary parts (divide by 5 centimeters more, so that when the device is installed, it can remain in place without fasteners)
Installing a vapor barrier. If you decide to save on this item, then you will make the most stupid mistake. Vapor barrier materials needed to remove moisture from the layers of insulation. Don't ask how she can get in there. Moisture has three states of aggregation, and by means of one of them it will in any case find a way. It is worth noting that even a small amount of water in the insulation boards will negate all its functional qualities. Fasteners, as a rule, are stapler staples

In construction, there is a term that combines all these layers together - a roofing pie. The device of this pie should be carried out in the absence of a large wind, because work is being done with a material of a large area, and it can simply fly away or come off the base with a sharp gust of air.

IMPORTANT: As a rule, waterproofing films produced with directional sides. This means that laying can only be done on a certain side. After all, the main task of such a layer is to protect the insulation from moisture and, if necessary, remove it from the plates.

Covering the roof with a metal tile is not difficult, the main thing is to create the necessary conditions for this - a high-quality crate.

Do-it-yourself roof lathing under a metal tile

In almost any field of work, everything is feasible with the help of one's own strength, the main thing is practice and some knowledge. In the next paragraph, I will describe to you step-by-step instructions on how to build a metal roof, but before that, you should pay attention to another important installation process - the crate.

The installation of any element requires a sufficiently reliable foundation. For roofing material, they are crates. It, as a rule, consists of small bars of wood 5x5cm. Attached vertically to the rafters. It is worth paying attention to the device ventilation ducts between roofing material and waterproofing layer. As alternative materials 3x10cm boards are used: their fastening is done in increments of 0.6m across the rafter legs. The cornice overhang is equipped with boards a little thicker, for example, 5x10cm. This is due to the higher load. As for the opposite side, ie. skate, then it is upholstered with two of the same elements without a gap.

In some documents, you can find certain instructions that state that the installation of a cornice strip is a mandatory job. It provides decent resistance to strong gusts of wind and the ingress of excessive moisture on the crate. Galvanized nails are used as fasteners. Their arrangement has a checkerboard appearance, and the distance between them is 30 cm. By the way, just before starting work on the device of such a board, it is worth impregnating it with special solutions to protect it from decay and dry it thoroughly.

There are two types of crates:

Discharged
solid

The first of them is arranged around the entire perimeter of the plane. The elements of such a crate have a certain step that should be followed. The second view looks like a solid shield. It is arranged, as a rule, in places of increased loads and joining of elements, for example, valleys, places around chimneys, joints, cornice overhangs, etc. Wood screws or self-tapping screws are often used as fasteners.

The roof structure made of metal tiles can have the following types:

Shed
gable
hip
Broken and others

As you may have guessed, this roofing material allows you to use absolutely any roof structure, with the exception of the domed one. This is good fact for manufacturers, because the relative cheapness and wide area applications make this material so popular among developers of private houses.

When everything is explained, you can answer the main question: “how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles?”

Do-it-yourself metal roof

Any self-respecting man will want to get a good apartment or build his own house. If you follow the second path and do everything on your own, then you should definitely absorb more information on how to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands. This is exactly what will be discussed in this paragraph.

Working on your own brings moral pleasure, which then develops into some pride in the result. By the way, you can see how the roof is covered with a metal tile with your own hands in the video at the bottom of the article.

Do-it-yourself roofing with a metal tile step-by-step instruction:

Purchase of material. At this stage, according to preliminary calculations, the required amount of roofing product is purchased. It is worth choosing qualitatively, asking the seller as much as possible. Pay Special attention on the coating of the material, find out what polymers the protective layer is made of and draw the appropriate conclusions
Upon bringing the product to the facility, it is worth carefully inspecting it for mechanical damage. After that, move the storage location closer to the installation site
Next, we proceed directly to laying the roofing material itself on the prepared base. Before laying, a special protective film is removed from the surface of the sheet product. The place for the device of the first sheet will be the edge of the eaves. Its location should have a small overlap of 5-6 cm. Screws will act as fasteners. They spin right through the metal into a massive board running around the perimeter. All measuring work is carried out using a construction tape measure.
The next sheet of roofing material is laid a little higher with an overlap of at least 5 cm and we fix it. Self-tapping screws or screws are screwed in from different sides, two pieces for each. We arrange two more sheets and then check the evenness of the work done
Further, all work moves in an already clear direction. Device blocks of 2-4 sheets and their subsequent calibration. Do not forget that the overlap should be at least 5cm
After laying all the sheets on the plane, end strips are arranged in order to protect the newly created roof from rain and wind. Their fastening is carried out in rafter legs or crate with long self-tapping screws. By the way, there are not only wooden end boards, but also PVC products. Their advantage is that they are not subject to corrosion and have a higher protection of wood from moisture.
Roof ridge device. This element allows you not to align the joints of the upper sheets of the material, they will hide under it. The fastening of the ridge is carried out on both sides with self-tapping screws. In the resulting space, it is worth paying special attention to the waterproofing of materials, the fact is that it is here that it will be collected the largest number moisture
As final work, the chimney is finished

That's all, the work on the device of the roofing material can be said to be completed.

For convenience, all measurements and trimming of metal tiles are best done on the ground.

It is worth it to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, if you want to not only save money, but also do this work for your own pride, I hope the above step-by-step instructions written by me will help you to implement your plan.

As a conclusion, I can say that the work done on your own is an occupation worthy of praise, but you should not assume that without certain skills you can create a high-quality and reliable roof. Contact the professionals in your field if you find it difficult to carry out this or that stage.

If the text is not enough for you or you want to consolidate what you have read, then here are a few videos on the topic “how do-it-yourself roofing is done with a metal tile”