A house made of timber - we build a warm and beautiful home on our own. How to build a house from a bar? How to fold a log house from a bar with your own hands

When choosing technology and material for building a house, many owners prefer timber houses. This decision is due to several positive aspects, including the ability to independently carry out all the necessary work. Consider how the construction of houses from a bar with your own hands should be carried out, so that in the end you get a beautiful and reliable building.

The choice of suitable quality wood is the first and one of the most important aspects that determines the success of the construction. And since wood, like any other material, has its own characteristics and advantages, it is worth responsibly approaching its choice and acquisition.

The first characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing wood are its density and strength. For different types of wood, this indicator is different and there are even those that are in no way inferior to metal. Therefore, in the selection process, it is important to pay attention to this, since even a small house made of timber must be built in such a way as to withstand serious loads without problems.

Here are the main requirements that must be met good house from a bar:

• walls must be strong, reliable and durable;
• the level of heat and noise insulation should be high enough;
• the project should be drawn up in such a way that the loads do not provoke subsidence and deformation of the walls.

If you decide to build a house from a bar, then achieving these indicators is more than realistic. And, nevertheless, you still have to put up with some shortcomings of wood. So, for example, a bar has an extremely low level fire safety. In addition, it tends to react negatively to precipitation, partially deforming as a result of their impact.

Important! The process of sedimentary deformation is especially relevant for the first few years of operation of the house. In the future, if this will be observed, it will be to a much lesser extent.

It is best to build a house from a bar from coniferous trees. Thus, you will get several advantages at once: the service life of such a bar is quite long, while it is as resistant to decay processes as possible, it has a low weight, which has a positive effect on the foundation and does not crack over time.

So the choice suitable material- nothing less important question than compliance with the prescribed construction technology. During the purchase process, you should pay attention to the quality of the purchased wood, choosing only best material that can last for many years.

Do-it-yourself timber house: which is better, solid, glued or profiled timber?

There are two types of timber: solid and profiled. For the construction of houses, both options are used, but in order to make a choice in favor of the most suitable option It is worth considering the advantages and disadvantages of both.

Building a wooden house from profiled timber: advantages and disadvantages

In the case of using profiled timber for the construction, a profile is required. In this case, these can be spikes or crown grooves. With their help, the beam is fastened along the entire length, after which it is polished. Usually timber for construction is already sold in full ready-made, so that the owner can only assemble the structure from the provided elements. Here are the benefits of this solution:

• resistance to deformation in such buildings is extremely high;
• with this technology, the costs are significantly reduced;

• the technology for building such a house is somewhat simpler than in all other cases;
• the surface of the walls is smooth, which eliminates the need to additionally sheathe them;
• rain and melt water will not collect inside the walls, so the level of protection against decay can also be called quite high.

Important! In the process of producing high-quality profiled timber, certain calculations are made that prevent precipitation from entering the interventional seams.

A clear and beautiful shape of the material allows you to quickly and at the same time carry out all the necessary construction works. In addition, such houses are characterized by a high level of thermal insulation and have an attractive appearance.

After the house from the profiled house is seated, there is no need to spend time and effort on caulking the walls. The natural wind protection of the walls of such a house will be quite sufficient, and the thermal insulation also turns out to be quite decent due to high density crown connections.

Of course, like any other material, profiled timber has its drawbacks. For example, he does not tolerate any atmospheric influences well. In addition, the material ignites extremely easily and actively supports combustion. In order to somehow reduce these negative factors, the wood must be treated with a special protective impregnation.

Important! Due to the influence of natural atmospheric humidity in warm weather, the timber often cracks. Therefore, it is worth looking for such a material, the humidity of which was initially reduced to at least 20%. They do this by resorting to the technology of chamber drying.

Another important aspect- the thickness of the walls made of profiled timber is not enough for a comfortable stay in the rather harsh climate of our country. Therefore, it is best to resort to additional external insulation.

Building a wooden house from a bar: the advantages of using a solid bar

Of course, it is worth paying attention to the construction of houses from solid timber. Despite the fact that its appearance is significantly inferior to the first option, it is used in construction quite widely and has some advantages. One of the main ones is cost. Another important factor is that during the preparation of wood, its natural moisture is preserved, which significantly reduces the duration preparatory phase and eliminates the need for a number of additional activities.

Buying a solid timber is somewhat easier than any other type, since the production of this material takes significantly less time. In addition, in order to build a high-quality house from a bar, the involvement of special equipment is not required.

But this solution also has its drawbacks:

• wall surfaces will definitely require serious Finishing work which will increase costs. Most often, such houses are sheathed with siding or clapboard;
• there is still a danger of acquiring low-quality material due to inexperience;

• solid timber is susceptible to fungus, since there is no special drying procedure. This can be partly solved with the help of special impregnations, but this will also incur costs;
• because of the interventional seams, such a house is blown quite strongly. Therefore, you will have to think about high-quality thermal insulation in any case;
• very often cracks appear in the wood after shrinkage.

Features of the construction of houses from glued beams

Turnkey glued laminated timber houses are not uncommon today. This wood product is very actively used in construction and is quite suitable for independent project implementation. One of the main advantages of this solution is that the house box is being built quite quickly. The walls at the same time are extremely durable and able to withstand heavy loads.

Thanks to a special production technology, you don’t have to worry that the glued beam will crack or deform under the weight of the roof, due to the fact that the fibers of the lamellas are directed in different directions. Glued laminated timber can be called an environmentally friendly material. True, there is one subtlety here - in production it is important how high-quality the adhesive used was, since it is its components that can have Negative influence on the health of people living in the house. That is why the price of a house made of glued laminated timber should not be too low.

Glued laminated timber is better than all other similar materials resists the effects of fire. In order for such a house to catch fire, it will take approximately 10 minutes of continuous exposure to open fire. Also, this type of timber is resistant to the process of decay, as well as the appearance of mold.

Interesting! Insects do not live in the walls of glued beams, since each part is thoroughly dried and fastened very tightly. For the same reason, it does not get inside rainwater and snow.

Milestones and important nuances building a house. Budget projects based various materials and right ways savings.

Taking into account the price of building houses from glued beams, before starting construction, it is useful to pay attention to what the owners of such buildings say, because only they can provide the most truthful information about the quality and practicality of operating such houses.

“We contacted a company that builds houses from glued laminated timber on a turnkey basis. The construction itself took about 1.5 months. We live the second year and have already survived one winter. I can say that the house is very comfortable. The heat is well retained, and there are no problems with wind blowing."

Vyacheslav, Yaroslavl

“It is not surprising that the cost of a house made of glued laminated timber is the highest. I have studied the options so far, read many times that this is the most the best way. That's why I built one for myself. Generally, wooden houses made of glued laminated timber is like a good constructor: it is extremely easy to work, pleasant and everything is very fast.”

Yuri, Krasnodar

Wooden houses from a bar: preparation for self-construction

Having decided which type of timber is more suitable for building your house, you can proceed to preparatory work and purchasing materials. The easiest way is to order a bar of the required size. Then all that remains to be done is to lay out a box from it according to the instructions from the manufacturer.

In the process of preparation, be sure to pay attention to the fact that the wood used is of proper quality. If large cracks (especially through cracks) are detected, the element must be replaced without fail. It is also necessary to inspect for the presence of traces of insects. In addition, do not forget about the importance of processing the material with antiseptic agents.

In order to carry out all the necessary work on the construction of the structure yourself, you will need a set of tools, among which must be:

• electric or gasoline saw;
• building level;
• electric drill;
• yardstick;
• perforator;
• axe;
• hammer;
• electric screwdriver;
• nails, screws and other fasteners.

Equally important is the presence of a drawing of a house made of timber. In the process of drawing up a detailed plan, all necessary calculations. And although it is quite possible to do all this on your own, many people prefer to turn to specialists in order to eliminate the risk of an error that can lead to serious consequences.

On what foundation you need to build a house from a bar: selection rules

Having prepared all the necessary drawings and materials, you can begin to lay the foundation of the future home. And in order to choose the most suitable type of base in a particular case, it is worth taking into account the following factors:

• characteristics of the soil available on the site;
• calculations that allow you to determine the expected load on the foundation;
• other design features of the house.

As a base, both wooden and concrete foundations can be used. Moreover, more often they resort to just the second option, laying out a brick base on top, and already laying walls from a bar on top. Though wooden base is also perfectly acceptable.

Building log house can be produced on a columnar foundation, as well as on a strip basis. They also resort to deep and shallow foundations. But given the small final weight of the structure, usually the base is not made too large. Most often, 50-70 cm is enough for the house to stand securely.

How one-story houses are built from timber: step-by-step instructions for building walls

Building a house from a bar with your own hands without construction experience is actually not such a bad idea as it might seem at first glance. It is quite possible to do the installation yourself, especially if you decide in advance on the assembly technology. The walls themselves are laid out in rows, simply laying the next layer on top of the previous one until the wall reaches the desired size.

The fit of logs to each other is provided by special grooves. But these places must be additionally insulated to prevent heat loss. And in order to increase the strength of the walls, it is recommended to additionally fasten the bars together with the help of special spikes.

The minimum amount of hassle will be in the case of using untreated pine timber, since due to its low weight, the layout can be done manually without involving special equipment for this.

Self-erecting walls from a bar, it is worth remembering two basic rules:

• all seams must be caulked to reduce the wind blowing of the walls;
• after the walls are laid out, they must be opened with a special compound that will give them additional strength and fire resistance.

Otherwise, one-story houses made of timber: glued, solid or profiled, can be built by anyone. A simple but effective technology will make the structure durable and reliable.

How to build a house from a bar: features of mounting the roof and floor

In an attempt to save money on building a house from a bar, many people make a common mistake by not paying due attention to the quality of the roof. Often, cheap materials are used for it, like ondulin. Doing this is categorically not recommended, since the roof is, first of all, safety.

Depending on the possibilities, as well as the individual preferences of the developer, the roof can have the most different kind. It depends on the type of roofing and truss system. But in any case, each section should be equipped using boards of various sizes, for example, if elements of 150x40 mm were chosen for the rafters, then 100x40 mm should be taken for racks and braces.

As for the features of the arrangement of the floor, the main factor here is the choice of the owners of the house. The main thing is to take care of the proper level of thermal and waterproofing so that the coating does not soon become unusable. The same applies to ceiling installation.

Important! If the house has a basement or basement, it is worth paying attention to the issue of its waterproofing. In this case, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing material before leveling or pouring the screed.

In order to ensure the proper level of waterproofing in a wooden house, you can use the following materials:

• waterproofing in rolls;
• coating materials;
• filling systems;
• penetrating moisture protection.

Of course, houses made of timber for permanent residence require investments, but it is better to immediately take care of the availability quality foundation and roofs, so that in the future you do not have to correct the consequences of the mistakes made. The same applies to all materials for thermal and waterproofing.

Features of finishing the house from a bar: photo examples

Having dealt with the features of the technology for building houses from timber, it is worth paying attention to some of the nuances of finishing. First of all, work is carried out on the installation of interior partitions, windows and doors. After that, the subfloor, insulation and topcoat are laid. Be sure to trim the ceiling.

Important! All works on the laying of communications (water supply, power supply and heating) must be completed before the start of finishing work.

As for the exterior, there are many options: you can leave everything as it is to log house looked as natural as possible. But in this case, you should make sure that the timber you use looks attractive enough for this. Another option is to sheathe the walls using siding and then paint it. In the same way, lining and other similar materials are used.

Turnkey timber houses: examples, projects, prices and descriptions

Despite the simplicity of the technology, not every site owner wants to mess with building a house on their own. Therefore, there are special companies that are ready to build a house from a turnkey timber, implementing one of the standard ones or your personal project. Consider what the best construction companies are ready to offer their customers.

Turnkey profiled timber house from DomaTo

The first typical project of a turnkey log house, the price and quality of which will pleasantly please the customer, is called D1. It occupies an area of ​​7x9 m, and its total area is just over 125 m². Such dimensions allow you to comfortably accommodate the whole family.

This house is made of timber with an attic, that is, in fact it has 1.5 floors. In addition, the plan provides for a spacious terrace, as well as a spacious balcony on the top floor of the house. During the summer season, this area is simply indispensable for recreation.

Let's take a closer look specifications and features of this building:

• initially, the project provides for a columnar foundation, but if desired, the company's specialists are ready to individually calculate a strip or pile-screw foundation for your home;

• strapping is made of timber 100x150 mm. As a sexual lag, elements of the same size are placed, in increments of 90-100 cm;
• for the walls of the first floor, a profiled beam 95 (145 or 190) mm by 145 mm on a jute canvas is used. Interior partitions made of timber 95x145 mm;
• walls of the second floor - profiled timber 95x145 mm;
• Windows are provided with double glazing. All accessories are also included. Entrance door metal, without fittings;
• for rafters, boards 40x100 or 150 mm are used, maintaining a step of no more than 90 cm;
• the roof of the house is ondulin (it is possible to choose a color: brown, red or green);
• the height of both the first and second floors is 2.5 m. Lining is used for filing ceilings;
• the staircase to the second floor is wooden and can be either single-flight or double-flight.

What exactly will be the price of building a house from a turnkey timber, the company's specialists calculate individually, taking into account many factors, including the individual wishes of customers. The only thing that can be indicated with absolute certainty is the cost of materials offered by this company:

• timber 100x150 mm - 744 rubles;
• timber 150x150 mm - 806 rubles;
• timber 150x200 mm - 898 rubles.

We can say with confidence that the construction of turnkey timber houses may not be the most cheap option, but more than justifies itself, as it saves you from having to deal with everything yourself.

Useful advice! Before finally deciding on a company that will build your home, it is advisable to talk with specialists from several companies. You can order from them free calculations of the cost of construction, and then choose the most profitable for yourself.

Summing up, we can say that a house made of timber is a great idea, which, in fact, is not so difficult to implement. Almost all the necessary work, if desired, can be carried out independently. You can also contact one of the companies that specializes in this issue and will be able to quickly and efficiently build a house from turnkey glued laminated timber.

"Woodstyle" - a house made of glued laminated timber: photo, description, reviews, cost

You can consider in more detail the question of how much it costs to build a house from a bar, using the example of this model. The construction company advertises the cost from 1,303,170 rubles. At the same time, the total area of ​​the house is 118.37 m² (9.7x9.3 m).

So, this price of a house made of glued laminated timber from the manufacturer "Kedr" includes the following types of work:

• foundation laying;
• the construction of walls from glued beams 2.7 m high. The assembly technology involves the use of wooden dowels, which are located at a distance of 1.5 m. In addition, a 5 mm flax jute cloth is laid between the crowns. All surfaces must be treated with a protective compound;
• for floors, waterproofing material is used - hydrostekloizol;
• for overlapping between floors, beams of 50x200 mm are used;
• for the attic floor, a beam of 50x150 mm is used;
• rafters - timber 50x200 mm. make out edged board 25x100, the pitch of which is 25 cm. As roofing material applies .

Interesting! This company offers its customers an interesting service - weekly photo reports on the work done by e-mail. This allows you to observe the process, while not wasting time traveling to the construction site.

One-story houses from turnkey timber: project OD-7 8x12

As an example one-story house consider the project proposed by Domabrus. The price of building a house from a bar in this case directly depends on how thick the material is used. Customers are offered three options to choose from:

• timber 100x150 mm - 720,000 rubles;
• timber 150x150 mm - 806,000 rubles;
• timber 200x150 mm - 900,000 rubles.

Initially, a support-columnar foundation is provided, however, it is possible to replace it with a pile-screw foundation for a fee. For strapping, a bar of natural moisture content of 150x150 mm is used for the 1st row and 150-100 mm for the 2nd row. Floor logs are made of timber 50x150 mm in increments of 60 to 70 cm.

As a material for the walls, a bar of natural moisture 90x140 mm is used together with a jute insulation, the thickness of which is 4 mm. For partitions, the same beam is used, but without insulation. The log house is assembled on wooden birch dowels.

For the ceiling, they take a beam of 50x100 mm in increments of 60-70 cm, and then they additionally hem the eurolining of category “B” and roll insulation, which provides the proper level of thermal insulation. Vapor barrier material stacked on both sides. Usually use "Nanoizol" or its analogues.

Rafters - timber 50x100 mm, located at a distance of 800 mm. As a roofing material, "Ondulin" is used in one of three colors: brown, cherry or green. A 30-centimeter overhang is hemmed with clapboard.

The windows in the house are wooden, with double glazing, as well as all necessary fittings. In addition, blind interior doors are also installed.

Useful advice! If you are not in a hurry to move, you can order a house from a timber for shrinkage. In this case, the design should settle for 6-12 months without finishing materials.

Finnish houses made of glued laminated timber: what is it and how do they differ from the rest

Having become interested in the question of how to build a house from a bar, each reader will certainly meet the wording “Finnish house from a bar”. Consider what it is, and what advantages these structures have.

These houses got their name from one Finnish companies who were engaged in the production of glued beams excellent quality. Thanks to the latest technologies, as well as considerable experience in this field, their products have won a leading position in the market, which was the reason for the emergence of such a name.

What advantages do they have in comparison with Russian counterparts and why do many people prefer them? The answer is extremely simple - it all depends on the quality of the raw materials used. Of course, the situation on the market is constantly changing, and today many domestic companies are quite capable of competing with Finnish ones, but the reputation of the latter still keeps them at the forefront.

The price of a house made of timber, built according to Finnish technology, is determined by many factors and aspects. This includes the materials used, as well as the size and complexity of the building. All this can be calculated in advance by drawing up a detailed project and estimate.

What is the secret of Finnish-made laminated timber? Historically, in the post-war years, Finnish manufacturers have abandoned the use of trees that have grown on their own. For this purpose, specially planted areas throughout the country. The same growth conditions and care did their job, and almost all the trees were of the same size and shape, which significantly increased the quality of the glued laminated timber that was made from them.

Interesting! Today, Finnish houses have very little in common with Finland, and in fact this phrase practically means just a profiled beam made using a special technology.

It is important to understand that the price of building houses from this type of timber is almost never low, and usually exceeds Russian analogues at least 2 times. This is due to many factors, including careful product quality control, as well as our own unique manufacturing technology.

Rules for caring for a house made of timber: how to extend the life of a wooden house

Looking through the options for timber houses: photos, prices and characteristics, many are wondering what needs to be done to make the building last as long as possible. Consider the recommendations of experts on how to properly care for a wooden house and what can be done for each of its constituent parts:

1. The roof of a log house requires additional protection against moisture, since it is she who leads to the destruction of the structure. To avoid this, external roofing must be complete and of high quality, and technical inspection must be carried out at least 2 times a year. You also need to regularly clean the roof of dry leaves, moss, lichens, etc. Otherwise, moisture can accumulate there. It is extremely important to avoid scratches on the surface, as even minor defects at first glance can cause a serious deterioration in the performance of the roof.
2. The walls of a house made of timber also require maintenance, which should be expressed in regular treatment with a protective compound that prevents the appearance of fungus and mold. Most trouble spot joints are considered, so more attention should be paid to their inspection and processing. It will also be extremely useful to treat the surface with flame retardants, which prevent combustion and protect the house in case of fire.
3. Oddly enough, the windows and window openings of a wooden house also require careful maintenance. So, in order to prevent the processes of decay, it is necessary to apply special compounds to them several times during the year in the following order: antiseptic, primer, water-dispersion paint.

If you regularly pay due attention to a wooden house, you can be sure that it will serve properly for many years, without succumbing to the destructive effects of external factors.

How to build a house from a bar yourself: video instruction for beginners

Since the price of a turnkey prefab house is often quite high for buyers, many prefer to spend self-assembly. And in order to avoid common mistakes in this case, you should watch the training video. Building a house from a bar is a task feasible for everyone. It is enough just to listen to some tips and recommendations.

Wooden houses have always been considered the warmest, most comfortable and environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is not surprising that in our time, many owners of suburban areas dream of building a wooden dwelling.

What will be discussed:

We build from timber

Today, instead of traditional logs, a wooden beam can be used for this purpose. This is a new generation material, characterized by durability and a wonderful appearance, and it is so easy to assemble buildings from it that even non-specialists can handle it.

The advantages of buildings from this lumber also include:

• High thermal insulation, which is several times higher than the similar property of others building materials and allows significant energy savings.
• · The bar is more than twice as strong as logs, it does not crack.
• For the manufacture of material used safe for humans and environment polyurethane adhesive.
• Houses made of timber, unlike log houses, are practically not subject to shrinkage, so the construction and interior decoration will take much less time.

Material selection

Before you start building a house with your own hands, you need to choose the material. In today's building materials market, manufacturers offer several types of timber, which differ in their functional characteristics.

Glued laminated timber is considered the most durable and resistant to external influences. It is shown in the photo below.

For its manufacture, well-dried lamellas are used. Due to the fact that all areas with various defects are removed from the source material, glued laminated timber becomes more durable, and its appearance also improves. Next, the lamellas are hissed and glued so that different layers of wood fibers complement each other. This method of assembling the beam makes it very durable and resistant to pressure. Assembling a house from glued beams is quite simple.

Today they also produce profiled timber (on the bottom photo). Its main difference is the presence of special grooves that facilitate the assembly of the structure. It can be solid or glued, rectangular or d-shaped.

The main difference between glued material is that it does not shrink. You can start decorating the walls immediately after the assembly is completed. Profiled lumber may shrink slightly, but it is many times less than that of a wooden frame.

The answer to the question: how much does it cost to assemble a house from a profiled beam depends on how thick the material you choose and what degree of humidity it will have.

Material calculation

If you decide to assemble a dwelling from a bar with your own hands, on initial stage construction, it is necessary to calculate the volumes of the required building material. To do this, the perimeter of the future building is calculated and multiplied by the estimated floor height. The result is multiplied by the thickness of the lumber. The result will be a figure equal to the number of cubes of material for the construction of one floor. A tree should be added to the resulting volume for the assembly of interior partitions.

Assembly preparation

To properly assemble a house from a bar with your own hands, you must follow some recommendations. All lumber is carefully inspected and sorted. Next, all noticeable irregularities are planed from the surface. Following the project, determine the length of each beam, trim and mark. To speed up the assembly process, you must first prepare the dowels and drill holes for them. All prepared timber is laid out on the side of the wall where they will be laid.

Stages of construction

Before you assemble a house from a 150x150 timber, you should prepare the foundation. Its depth and type depend on the size of the house being built and the characteristics of the soil on the site. After the foundation has sufficiently stood, you can start laying the first crown. If you are assembling a house with your own hands, be sure to take into account the advice of experts: do not lay the first crown immediately on the foundation.

This is the place most exposed to moisture, so a board should be laid between the concrete and the timber, which, if necessary, can be easily replaced. Its thickness must be at least 50 mm. Before laying, the board is treated with an antiseptic solution.

After laying the first contour layer of the bars, crown masonry is performed. Jute is used to seal the joints between the previous and subsequent rows. To strengthen the structure, every two beams are connected with dowels.

So that the lumber is not deformed in the area of ​​​​window and doorways, part of the timber is laid according to the dimensions of the wall. After the shrinkage has passed, the unnecessary tree is cut out.

The floor of the first floor and the attic are insulated with a layer of mineral wool. After 3-4 months, you can start internal work. Before that, all the walls are once again inspected. If cracks appear on the surface of the beams during shrinkage, they must be repaired, the cracks are caulked with jute.

On top of the wall can be varnished. It will protect the wood from moisture and UV rays. To reduce the cost of paints and varnishes, the walls are polished. In addition, a coating applied to a smooth sanded surface will last longer.

Step-by-step instructions on how to assemble a house from a bar in the video below. This video describes in detail all the necessary steps of work.

In order for the house you built to be reliable and last for decades, do not forget about the following recommendations.

1. Before assembling the structure, the material is planed and chamfered.
2. It is impossible to use nails to fix the beams; dowels are suitable for this purpose. For a beam 6 m long, you will need four dowels (two at the edges and two in the middle at the same distance from each other).
3. Walls are assembled from more even beams, material with a slight curvature is used for short sections in the places of door or window openings.
4. To assemble the corners, a tenon-groove connection is used.

Properly assembled from glued or profiled timber, the house will last for decades, allowing you to enjoy warmth and comfort.

I wanted to build a house. Immediately faced with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but I wanted to get a reliable, warm and durable house. Having studied the proposals of the modern construction market, I decided to stop at

On the forums, it is advised to build houses with a section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside with mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

Foundation pouring

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other interfering things. After that, he began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. He studied the geological conditions, found out the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. The specialized reference literature helped me with this. In addition, I asked the neighbors on what foundations their houses stand.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the arrangement of foundations, so most of the neighbors' houses stand on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is our wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not "heaving". The water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need to equip buried monolithic supports in my region.

Started by digging trenches. To begin with, he removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then he laid out the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. Bandaged them in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. And so he did.

To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order ready-made building concrete with delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need this.

Alas, this way of saving will not work in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the building mixture.

While the concrete is gaining strength (and it takes 3-4 weeks for this), I will prepare the consumables.

Bar prices

Find out more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Preparation of dowels

The connection of the crowns of the beam is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scraps of boards left over from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of the roof lathing.

For pins, use the hardest wood possible. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took the board scraps and beveled them on one side with a suitable saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful blanks.

The planks were cut with a band saw. As a result, I received a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation

Nagels, sphagnum peat moss and planks

The technology requires that between each crown of the timber be laid. Professionals usually insulate with rolled materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll the material over the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, you have to pay for the convenience and ease of processing.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. Firstly, this material is full in nature - go and collect. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally, I worked through thematic forums: moss is actively used as an interventional insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

For insulation, red or peat moss is best suited. The first one is highly rigid. The second after drying becomes brittle. It is best to use red moss whenever possible. It is easy to recognize it - these are long stems with leaves resembling a Christmas tree.

Making jambs

I make them for every door and window opening. To do this, I use a flat beam. Knots, if possible, should not be at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench right next to the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed with a chisel.

Not even every professional carpenter can do the right jamb. Therefore, I decided to make jambs for windows using a simplified technology. In each window opening, I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block will be directly responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, here I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of a sample (it is shaded in the photo), I decided to paste the bar. To do this, the plane was sharpened in advance. The result turned out no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be greatly simplified.

I chose in the bar, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to put the bottom bar on the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts, first setting the appropriate output of the disc and making a parallel stop.

Then I took a spade drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for dowels. At the end, I sawed out an even rectangle across the wood fibers. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and from the bottom of each vertical jamb they make out a reciprocal ledge, cutting down and sawing out excess wood with a chisel. I decided to make holes, as for mounting dowels, and scored a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

I haven’t touched the upper horizontal beam yet, but I nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take over the functions of the “quarter”. Making the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but to cope with your main function it doesn't bother him. In the future, I will cut the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from wooden beam I used the following tools and fixtures:

• hammerless electric drill;
• circular saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electric planer;
• square;
• reciprocating saw;
• plumb;
• hammer;
• water hose;
• axe.

To cut a wooden beam, I bought a circular saw. I had to cut in two passes. First, he drew a line on the square, after which he cut, turned the beam over and again made a cut. It is best to transfer the line to the second face of the beam also using a square. If you are confident in your "eye", you can cut "by eye".

With the help of a circular saw, I made spikes and grooves for corner connections bars. When arranging the spikes, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

Building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starting crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "in the floor of the tree". This knot is made without any problems with a circular saw - it is enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material with a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I put the lower crown on the lining of the boards. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make air gaps there. In my area, they are usually in the wall, not in the concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation, the wind moves at a higher speed than directly at the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Bar cutting. Connection "in half a tree"

I am going to mount the floor beams on the linings - so, as I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Linings and timber of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots the fastest. In my situation, there are linings below, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I connected the timber with the help of root spikes - the usual adjunction of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, he cut a couple of cuts. The cutting line was transferred to the second face with the help of a square. The root spike is easy to do, everything is shown in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is even easier. Also shown in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in the tongue and groove joints there should be approximately 0.5 cm gap for laying the seal. A joint where the wood just touches the wood is unacceptable.

First, I set the depth of cut I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the disc without any problems - just loosen the lever. The add-on is easy to use. If in traditional carpentry the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares the required number of workpieces of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the cutting depth is adjusted directly in the course of work.

My saw is equipped with a thin blade - it takes much less effort to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My house will have walls longer than timber, so I will have to splice the building material. To do this, I made a gash from both ends of a long beam, removed the excess with a chisel and got a spike in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the fibers is not practical. I went to the trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second beam. The length of the drill was not enough to create a through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut through the beam along the fibers with a chisel. Connected spliced ​​bars. Gaps filled with moss.

Useful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting the timber, it will not be possible to completely make the spikes with a saw, it will be necessary to additionally gouge with a chisel to complete the process. In the next photo you see the bars already with mounting spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

He laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly completing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - connectors for the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and put down vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my beam. After I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them with a hammer.

What do you need to know about pins?

Logically, a round dowel would have to be driven into a round hole. Builders, on the other hand, adhere to a different technology and use dowels. square section. Such fasteners are also easier to manufacture, and the connection is held much more reliably. At the same time, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is what to drill hand drill a strictly vertical hole without the slightest deviation is impossible. When installing the bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will stagger a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally besieged with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure proper shrinkage even if there are slight deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to observe how builders made holes in the wall from a bar using a long drill and drove long round dowels into them, outwardly similar to cuttings from a shovel or rake. Were these holes vertical? Naturally, no. In the end, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having driven in pins, I laid tow and moss on the crown. The tow was laid across the bars. Moss just sprinkled on the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to caulk the walls. Moss will also provide decent building insulation.

I set the bars on the dowels, laid the tow, threw in the moss, laid siege to the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it still staggers. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Is it not necessary to lay in the corners and her? There is no need. First, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will continually flow down the corners. Moss will not let the wood rot in these places. Secondly, in the future, the beam in the corners will probably have to be cut. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can also lead to breakage of the planer.

Tow prices

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day, I covered the corner joints in order to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - it is quite possible to cope with such a problem with a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a planer at the very end, when the interference with the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. With a planer, I compared small “screws” and “humps”. He compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - it takes much less time to arrange them than to process wood with a planer.

What does it cost us to build a house!

You have already familiarized yourself with the basic principles of laying each crown. There are important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding, I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only here I drill holes for dowels “staggered” in relation to the lower crowns. After that, I lay tow and moss, and placing each beam in the place intended for it, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

• I lay another crown;
• I make markings for dowels;
• drill holes;
• I drive in wooden fasteners;
• I lay tow, I throw moss on it;
• I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the bars, they are joined by the “spread out” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is the seventh crown for me), I made markings for arranging window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window block. On each side of the opening there should be a pair of gaps - between the jamb and the installed window block, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut spikes in the bars, similar to the stage with door openings.

The following crowns with a window opening were laid from bars without spikes, observing the same overall dimensions.

I equipped all the window openings from “shorty pieces”, the evenness of which was disturbed during the shrinkage of the timber - such material would not work for walls, but it’s a pity to throw it away. Didn't do jumpers. Equipping the opening, he constantly checked its evenness with a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily fastened a separate wall with rails so that it would not fall during work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not need additional reinforcement - they are perfectly held by their own weight.

Important note! In the places where the spikes of the opening and the cut line are arranged, i.e. only a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the tow, because when sawing, it would be wound around the cutting disc. In the future, the tow is knocked out from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it needs to be temporarily laid without fastening and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for the spikes. He put them on jambs. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I set a parallel stop to maintain the desired indent from the edge. It didn't take me much time to do this. I didn’t succeed in cutting the timber to the desired depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

In the lower crown of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. I did not do this in the last crown - in the future, the spikes will still have to be created in each beam.

On the personal experience I made sure that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “shorty”, is not an easy task.

Light and short cuts can be tried on before making a recess or spike. It may well turn out that a bar deviating to the left will fall on a bar deviating to the right. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams deviate in the same direction, you can not count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan the “screws” with a planer, or lay the timber with a “ladder”. It was my second case. I also eliminated the gap with a planer. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being erected using a plumb line.

Jamb installation and shutdown

Placed the top crown. It's time to mount the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished structure will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged spike. On the upper bars there are cuts in the required places. I attach a guide, set the desired cutting depth and make a cut with a circular saw. After that, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the size of the spike and get rid of excess material with the help of a chisel.

My spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut down excess material and fill the gaps with a sealant.

Inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you plan to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the beam before the start of its construction. I also mounted less on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The beam will just have time to shrink. After that, I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was glad that much less money had to be spent on the foundation when compared with other types of supports. It took some money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and rebar.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable cost and relatively low consumption of building material. When the timber was brought to me, I laid it out in a pile about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I miscalculated somewhere and there was not enough material for me. As a result, about 20 bars remained unused. In general, I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a section of 15x10 cm for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part in it accounts for 6x7.5 m). I would have spent 1.5 times more money on a timber of 15x15 cm. Yes, and additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made himself, the moss is free. The tow was given to me with pleasure by my friends after the completion of their construction activities.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me in the future. Particularly pleased with the purchase of a good circular saw and concrete mixer.

Now about the speed of work. I did not have much experience in building from a bar. As practice has shown, for the whole day, working in one hand and subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not require any special skills to carry it out. And I personally convinced myself of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you will be able, just like me, to make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - Do-it-yourself log house

For hundreds of years, our ancestors built wooden houses, during this time many new, modern building materials have appeared, but people invariably return to natural materials and the best of them is considered to be a tree.

Wooden houses:

• warm,
• reliable,
• beautiful,
• durable.

But they have another important advantage, wooden house simple enough to build. Having 3 people who know how to use carpentry, locksmith tools as assistants, in one season you can build a good wooden house, from profiled or glued beams, and with your own hands.

Important: You can lay the foundation in advance while it is warm, and build the house itself when the cold comes.

What is a bar

The most popular are two types. Profiled timber is a wooden product, square or rectangular section.

The beam can be even, geometrically regular shape. Or profiled, having a certain profile, which allows the product to be joined more tightly at the junction points.

Glued laminated timber appeared relatively recently, it can be called a product of new, advanced technologies.

Visually, it looks like a profiled one. But the production technology is more complex. Glued laminated timber consists of several layers of wood, fastened using a special technology. It is stronger, more durable and easier to work with.

Important: Profiled timber can shrink up to 50 mm per 1m, depending on the dryness of the timber. Glued laminated timber shrinks, on average, by 10-15 mm.

The thickness of the timber ranges from 90 mm to 275 mm.

The most popular are the profile section:

1. 100 mm by 150 mm.
2. 100 mm by 200 mm.
3. 150 mm by 200 mm.
4. 180 mm by 200 mm.

With a maximum, standard length up to 12m.

Wall length

m

Wall width

m

Wall height

m

Bar section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Beam length

5 m 6 m 7 m 8 m 9 m 10 m 11 m 12 m

We are preparing a project

You will not be able to build from a bar without a project.

It is no secret that in the CIS, there are many countries, and the level of bureaucracy is practically the same. We provide a list of the main documents that you will need to prepare.

• A foundation drawing is required, with a detailed description with a full layout by material, composition, depth, etc. As well as detailed data on the soil, composition, quality, ground water etc.
• The next number, building plan. You prepare it based on the drawing of the foundation, but also with detailed description.
• After you need a floor, detailed plan. In it, indicate in detail partitions, stoves, fireplaces, windows, doors, etc.
• Another, really important document, scatter. Simply put, this detailed drawing sectional walls of the house. By unloading, you will be able to place an order for the manufacture of timber, it will be made for you and marked as a designer. Then just look at the numbers and collect.
• Specification of every detail of the house.
• Detailed drawing of the roof, with a detailed description of all layers.
• Final view of the house.

Please note: take seriously the description of the timber itself, what kind of wood, what kind of profile, the level of dryness of the timber, etc. This will eliminate misunderstandings when ordering.

The package of documents is solid, of course, you can rest, although the work is painstaking, but you yourself are quite capable. But my advice is don't waste your time. The collection of papers may take longer than the construction itself. Trust the professionals, they will be happy to help you on our website and it will cost you much less than amateur performance.

Foundation laying

To build houses from a bar, a capital, expensive foundation is not required. These structures are relatively light in weight.

For construction

1. Shallow strip foundation. This type of foundation is laid in a trench and has a maximum depth of up to 50 cm.
2. Mixed or strip-column foundation. This type is similar to tape. But in all important nodes, has reinforcement in the form of concrete pillars.
3. Columnar. This foundation is based on pillars connected by a concrete or metal grillage.
4. On screw metal piles or piles with screws. Product modern technologies. Metal, corrosion-resistant piles are screwed into the ground and connected with a grillage. The foundation is convenient, also because it is easily repaired.
5. On wooden piles, at the present time it is rarely used, since the tree, no matter how you process it, still deteriorates in the ground.
6. On concrete piles. The foundation is excellent, but expensive. To drive a concrete pile, you will need special construction equipment.

In order to build from a bar, the first 4 options are enough. The instructions below, with minor amendments, are suitable for the first 3 types of foundation.

Tape

• Any foundation starts with markings. For marking, we use ordinary wooden pegs and fishing line. At a distance of 30-40 cm from the projected wall, we drive in the pegs and pull the fishing line.
• The body of the foundation will be indicated not by driven pegs, but by a fishing line.

Important: after stretching the fishing line, you should measure the diagonals. The distance along the diagonals must be strictly the same. Even the slightest discrepancy speaks of wrong angles, and you will get an asymmetrical foundation.

• We take out the soil to a depth of 50 cm. Consider the thickness of the formwork. Control the bottom of the trench by level.
• Next, we make 2 pillows up to 10 cm each. Sand, plus gravel.
• We proceed to the installation of formwork.
• We invest in waterproofing, the most budget option, this is roofing material or thick, technical polyethylene.
• We weld or knit a reinforcing, metal frame.
• We fill it with concrete, it is better to fill it all at once, in a complex way. Order a mixer, pour the foundation in one go and wait for it to harden.
• Remove the formwork, and in its place pour a cushion of rubble.

mixed foundation

It differs from the previous tape one by the presence of reinforcing pillars at the corners of the structure and at the most stressed nodes. Therefore, to the above, instructions for pouring the pillars with your own hands are added.

• We drill a hole under each post, to a depth of 1m.
• We make a similar mastering of sand and gravel.
• We turn the pipe from the roofing material into 2-3 layers and fix it with adhesive tape.
• We insert the pipe into the pit, mount the reinforcing cage, 200 mm high above the general level of the foundation.
• Before the main pour, make the sole of the pillar. To do this, pour the solution into the pipe and raise the pipe, allowing the solution to spread. When the solution hardens a little, start pouring the entire foundation.

Column type foundation

The pillars in this foundation can be made, as in the previous version, from concrete. So lay out from a brick, in the form of a curbstone.

Just lay out the cabinet with a well, and insert the reinforcing cage inside and fill it with concrete.

Himself, the cabinets are set according to the level and a grillage is mounted on them.

The grillage can be concrete, then formwork is made on the pillars in the form of a bath, waterproofed, reinforcement is installed and concrete is poured. Or welded from metal, which is attached to the reinforcing cage of the pillars.

Making crowns

Crowns, this is the first row of timber. To build a good house from a bar, carefully consider the installation of the crowns.

The video in this article clearly shows the installation of dowels.

Making the floor

At this stage, you should lay the foundation of the floor, a draft version. The final finish will be done along with the interior decoration.

If you are building a relatively small building, bathhouse or garden house. It will be quite enough for you to lay an additional belt of timber along the perimeter, fasten it with a crown and mount logs on this belt.

But if the house occupies a large area, the approach will be somewhat different.

With a large quadrature, separate pedestals should be laid out to support the floor, something similar to a separate foundation for the floor.

• Depending on the composition of the soil, we lay the columns to a depth of half a meter.
• We make them square 40x40 or 50x50. Bookmark step from 50 to 90 cm.
• In layers up to about 10 cm, we lay and compact sand and gravel.
• We make a small reinforcing cage, up to 10 cm high, install it and fill it with concrete.
• Next, we waterproof this base and lay out a cabinet of bricks, to the level of the beams.
• We lay down the waterproofing again and mount the beams.
• We grab the logs to the beams with self-tapping screws.
• Between the lag, with the help of a corner, we mount waterproof plywood.
• We waterproof and glue all joints with adhesive tape.
• We lay the insulation on top and cover it with a subfloor.

Building walls

If you did everything right before that, then building walls from a beam with your own hands will not be difficult for you.

• The profiled beam already has special grooves, they will facilitate the connection.
• Corner connection do as you like, there are 3 types of corner connection:

1. Back to back.
2. Half a tree.
3. By means of a root spike.

• Be sure to lay insulation between the timber.
• Control each laid beam by level and fix it with a dowel.
• In the window area, leave technological gaps for shrinkage.

Important: when you put in the house bearing wall or supporting columns under the roof, they should not be rigidly fixed to the roof at first. Take self-tapping screws and that's enough. When the house begins to sit down and walk, you will have to adjust the height of the support. When you sit down, fix it completely.

This video will tell you about the intricacies of building walls.

Starting roof installation

Roof is enough milestone construction, but you can mount it yourself.

• First, knock down a template from light boards. On it you will install the rafters.
• Next, set the beginning and end of the construction according to the template.
• Between the installed rafters, at control points, according to the level, we stretch the strings from the fishing line.
• Focusing on the strings, controlling the level and template, we mount the rest of the rafters.
• We fill the crate on top and fasten it with a stapler under the bottom, overlapping the vapor barrier.
• Under the vapor barrier, between the rafters, we lay the insulation, close it with another layer of vapor barrier.
• Next, we finally fix the bottom layer of the crate, it is already possible to attach the lining to it according to your taste and wallet.
• Top most budget option, is a coating on the upper crate of the roofing material and on top of it sheets of slate.

If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing the material will be relevant.

The most budget option would be to build a house from a bar. With all the cheapness of this material, the house will turn out to be quite warm, durable and strong.

Having studied the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose a bar with a section of 150x150 mm.

But in the event that you do not want to attract additional labor, lumber such as dry timber 150x100 mm is suitable for you, which, after erection and shrinkage, can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in terms of thermal insulation to other buildings from a beam of a larger section.

Stages of construction and construction of the foundation

And so, the material is purchased, we proceed to the construction of the house:

• Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the platform for the foundation;
• In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).

The foundation can be piled, monolithic or tape, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively light.

After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then proceed to laying the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what is used to fasten the timber laid in the crowns together. They are usually made of dense wood (larch).

With a beam size of 150x100 mm, dowels about 12 cm long are suitable. Also, the beam laying technology requires laying interventional insulation. Usually this roll materials type of jute, you can also use tow or moss.

According to the advice of experts, fresh red or peat moss should be used, which has lain for no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future home should be made of larch, which is not subject to decay. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.

The bar of the first crown is fastened together, with a technique known as “half a tree” - at the ends of the bar, a cut is made along and across. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot with staples or nails.

Ways of fastening the beam to the foundation

At the stage of pouring the base, bolts with bent or cone-shaped bases are mounted in its upper layer. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. Each element of the first crown should have at least two bolts.

In the beam of the first crown, even before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation.

A pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.

After laying the first crown and fixing it on the foundation studs with washers and lock nuts, bring the horizontal level so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Having laid the first crown, we proceed to the construction of walls.

To do this, you will need a variety of tools:

Note!

• Petrol or electric saw;
• Hand circular saw;
• Drill;
• Level;
• Roulette;
• Axe;
• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Perforator;
• Plane.

Also needed Consumables- nails, self-tapping screws, interventional insulation, fire and bioprotective impregnations.

After preparing all necessary materials and a tool, we begin to build the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall of the required height is obtained.

After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings are installed. At the next stage, the final construction of the walls under the roof takes place.

Roof and floor construction

We strongly do not recommend saving on material for installing a roof. This part of the house can be executed in several versions:

• Shed;
• gable;
• hip;
• Tent;
• Half hip;
• Multi-forceps;
• Vaulted and tambourine roofing.

It all depends on your desire Money and the complexity of the truss system.

Note!

Floors and ceilings in the house is also not an unimportant stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and plinths.

Do-it-yourself photo of a house from a bar

Note!